In the past and up to now, more Filipinos are raising chickens. But in recent years, farmers have realized that raising ducks can also be a profitable venture because of their eggs. Ducks’ most important product, the balut and penoy (boiled incubated duck’s eggs), are sold daily throughout the archipelago for their delicious flavor and nutritive value.

There are several other reasons why duck raising is a good business venture. “Among the avian species, duck is considered as the most versatile because it can subsist under a wide range of climatic and nutritional conditions,” pointed out the Laguna-based Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry, and Natural Resources Research and Development (PCARRD).

Not only that. “Duck raising is inexpensive, requires non-elaborate housing facilities, and little attention, and less space for rearing compared to chickens,” PCARRD said. “Moreover, ducks are shown to be relatively hardy, resistant to common avian diseases, and subsist on a variety of feeds.”

This is why PCARRD is recommending duck raising in various parts of the country. “Duck raising offers an opportunity for rural families to improve their nutrition and to augment their income by producing highly priced protein products out of locally available feed resources,” it said.

The Davao-based Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center (MBRLC) Foundation, Inc. is also spearheading for its production. Here are some pointers:

1. Buy your breeding stock from reliable duck raisers. The Pateros duck (native duck or ‘itik’) is good for egg production so are the Khaki Campbell (developed at Cherry Valley Farm in England), Indian Runner and Tsaiya (developed in Taiwan). The Pekin duck is good both for meat and egg purposes. Another meat-type duck is the Muscovy duck (locally known as ‘pato’).

2. Build your duck house in a quiet, cool place and near as possible to a stream or pond. Local materials like bamboo, nipa and cogon are cool and cheap. Provide each duck with at least 3-4 square feet of floor space. Cover the floor with rice hull, corn cobs, peanut hulls or similar materials to make it dry and clean; and to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.

3. You can provide a swimming pond for the ducks if you wish. One of 10 feet wide and 20 feet long is adequate for 50 birds. However, a pond is not really necessary in duck raising. The ducks can lay just as many eggs without it.

4. Pateros ducks start laying when they are about 4-6 months old. Pekin and Muscovy ducks start laying at about 6-7 months old. In breeding, you need male for every five female ducks. Starir selecting breeders when birds are about 8 weeks old, and again at 4 to 5 months old. Eggs for hatching purposes should come from ducks not less than 7 months old to ensure better fertility, hatchability and livability of offspring.

5. Drakes (male duck) should have the same age as ducks or even a month older. They should be raised separately from ducks. Both the male and female ducks are put together only when ready for mating. (Only eggs coming from mated flocks are considered for ‘balut’ and duckling production.)

6. Ducklings need to be brooded or warmed until they are a month old. The temperature required for brooding is 95°F for the first week, 90°F for the second week, 85°F for the third week and 80°F for the last week. A good brooding area is at least 1/2 square foot per duckling during the first week. The area should be increased by about 1/2 square foot every week until the fourth week.

The behavior of the ducklings is a good indicator whether brooding temperature is correct. The ducklings huddle close together toward the- source of heat when temperature is low; scattered or spread evenly when the temperature is correct; but panting and moving away from the source of heat when the temperature is too hot.

When your ducklings show signs of sickness, add three tablespoons of Nexal for every gallon of water for-2-3 days. Skip or withdraw after 3 days. Then continue for another 3 days. Terramycin poultry formula can also be used. Follow the instructions written on the package carefully. In order to prevent Avian Pest Disease, immunize your ducks with Avian Pest Vaccine which can be obtained free from the Bureau of Animal Industry (BAI).

7. Sex your ducklings. This is done by pressing the region of the crop inward, and with two fingers, press the vent slightly outward. By this process, the male organ protrudes and is exposed to view, while it remains flat in the female. If you desire to fatten the extra males, then grow them separately from the females. When ducklings are six weeks old, they can be transferred from the brooder to the growing house. Transfer the layers to the laying house when they are four months old.

8. Give your cJucks the right kind of feed. Here are some recommendations: One-day to 6-week-old ducklings should be fed with starter mash with 10-21 percent crude protein. Sixweek-old to 4 month old ducklings should be fed with growing mash with at least 16 percent crude protein. Four-month-old ducks and above should be fed with laying ration with at least 16 percent crude protein.

9. Commercial feeds are good for your ducks. However, if you want to mix your own feed, here is a formula for a practical general purpose ration: first class rice bran (’darak’), 55 kilograms; ground corn or binlid, 20 kilograms; shrimps or snails, 25 kilograms; wood ash or ground charcoal, 1.5 kilograms; ordinary table salt, 250 grams; ground limestone or shells, 250 grams; and Afsillin or Aurofac, 250 grams. This general purpose ration may be fed to your ducks of any age.

10. In addition, feed your ducks plenty of chopped green leaves of either kangkong, comfrey, camote, ipil-ipil and legumes as additional feed. Give at least 10 grams of chopped green leaves per duck per day. You can also grow and feed freshwater snails to your ducks. Giving one gallon of fresh snails a day to 24 duck layers will help increase egg production. More importantly, provide your ducks plenty of clean fresh water all ‘the time.

11. If you provide a swimming pond for your ducks, limit their playing in the water to 1-2 hours a day. Too much playing in the water will tire your ducks and make them eat more feeds. Do not allow your ducks to get wet under the rain because they may get sick.

12. You may start growing your replacement ducks when your layers are in their second year of laying. ‘Dispose of your pool layers and retain the good ones.

Here are some tips from PCARRD on how to prevent duck diseases in your farm:

• Raise only healthy stocks. Sick birds should be culled immediately and disposed of properly to avoid spread of infection.

• Provide cool, fresh, and clean drinking water at all times. Clean waterers at least once a day. Highly polluted water is detrimental to the ducks’ health and can affect overall performance.

• Provide clean and dry feeders at all times. Wet feeders are prone to the growth of yeasts, harmful bacteria, and harmful molds which are sources of mycotoxins such as aflatoxin, ocratoxin and related toxins. Since ducks are highly susceptible to aflatoxicosis, the above activity should be strictly followed.

• Keep the farm and its surroundings clean. Ducks should be provided with clean and dry litter and well drained areas.

• Provide well ventilated housing with dry flooring or litter. Do not overstock the animals in the pen. Secure constructed buildings so that dogs, cats, rats and other possible disease carriers cannot enter.

• Burn or bury dead ducks as soon as possible to avoid flies from breeding on the decomposing matter. This will also prevent infected maggots from being eaten by ducks.

• Prohibit delivery trucks and visitors from entering the production areas as disease organisms are often introduced into the farm by these delivery vehicles and/or visitors.

• Install footbath in strategic locations to prevent entry of infective agents into the farm.

• Vaccinate ducklings against duck cholera with polyvalent bacterin if available. Give antibiotic-vitamin-mineral supplement to suppress build-up of bacterial infection and improve the ducks’ health condition.

• Spray the, animals with insecticides, at least once a year to control lice and mites, beetles and other arthropods that can cause annoyance to the ducks.

• Avoid giving decomposed food such as snail, shrimps, fish, and meat which may contain virulent microorganisms or their toxins.

• Maintain good production and health records. Supervise closely the overall duck farm operation.

By Henrylito D. Tacio

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Use GAS as Duck FeedHere’s good news for mallard duck raisers. You can now substitute half of your duck layer pellets with crushed golden apple snail (GAS) or golden kuhol and still produce as much egg as when the birds are totally fed with duck layer pellets.

Results of a study conducted by researchers of the Department of Agriculture Regional Field Unit I showed that 100 duck layers could be fed with a mixture of 11.75.kg of crushed GAS mixed thoroughly with 11.75 kg of pellets.

In the absence of pellets, you can use formulated ration consisting of ground corn, rice bran, soybean oil meal, oyster shell powder, meat, bone meal and salt. Although half of the feeds could be substituted with crushed GAS, the birds were found to have better appetite when they were given a mixture of 25 percent crushed golden apple snail and 75 percent formulated ration.

The DA-1 researchers also noted that the birds produced thick-shelled eggs with the addition of crushed golden apple snail in their feeds. They emphasized, however, that good egg production performance depends greatly on proper breed selection, good laying house, care, and feed management of the flock.

To start with, the male ducks must be raised separately from the female ducks for the first six months. They can be put together in the seventh month, and the ratio should be 1 male duck to 10-12 female ducks.

Sufficient space must be provided in the laying house as a duck needs 4 square feet. The researchers recommend that a laying house for 30 ducks should measure 10 feet x 12 feet. The roof should be 9 feet high, while the fence should be one-half meter high.

Collect golden apple snails that would be enough for only two to three days of feeding to really save on commercial feeds. At the same time, avoid placing more than enough feeds in the feeding troughs to avoid spoilage.

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Posted on October 17th, 2008 under Poultry. Tags: Duck, Golden Apple Snail. RSS 2.0 feed. Leave a response, or trackback.

2 Responses to “Use GAS as Duck Feed”

1. imo Says: April 13th, 2011 at 11:22 pm

is the freshly crushed snails given right away to the ducks or is there some sort of drying before mixing with commercial pellets?thanks lots

2. Lee Edralas Says: April 27th, 2011 at 6:32 am

any idea where to buy golden snail here in cebu? and also, is there a training centers you know in Cebu with regards to duck raising? Thanks.

Pekin Duck : Fast-growing Money-makerOne promising new money-maker for local investors is the Pekin duck, particularly the F1 (first generation) ducklings of a superior genetic line from the Czech Republic that is now available locally.

According to Dr. Erwin Cruz who is distributing the ducklings, this Pekin duck will usually attain a liveweight of 3.6 kilos in only 49 days. With a dressing percentage of 69%, each bird will yield 2.48 kilos of marketable meat. The meat has a farmgate price of P190 per kilo, hence one dressed duck will gross the raiser P471.20.

And what is the cost of production per bird of a batch of 100? The cost of producing one kilo of meat, including the cost of dressing, is P122.83, according to Dr. Cruz. So the cost of producing the 2.48 kilos of meat per bird is P304.61. Subtract this from the gross of P471.20, and you get a net profit of P166.59 per head. That’s not bad for a growing period of 49 days.

The quality of the meat meets the high standards of the top restaurants in Manila as well as the importers from Japan, according to Dr. Cruz. In fact, one Japanese importer would like to import three container loads (54 tons) of dressed Pekin duck every week. However, as of the moment, the requirement could only be met partially.

Dr. Cruz said that the ducks should be raised in confinement inside a house with elevated floor (one meter above the ground). In the growing period of 49 days, each bird will usually consume 8.4 kilos costing P194.58.

The other costs are the cost of the ducklings (P65 each), brooding cost at P5 per head; rice hull used for brooding (P5 per head). Labor is placed at P1,000 per 100 birds.

Here is a golden opportunity for the Philippines to capitalize on the fact that it is about the only country in the region that is free of the bird flu. Clusters of Pekin duck production involving the small farmers is possible, according to Dr. Cruz.

What is needed is government support for the industry such as the provision of AAA dressing plants that will make it possible to export the Pekin duck meat not only to Japan but also elsewhere.

Technology in postharvest processing as well as various ways of cooking Pekin duck meat should be in the research agenda.

Of course, the target should not only be for export. More Filipinos should also be able to savor the Pekin duck meat.

Actually, many Filipinos think very lowly of duck meat because they believe it is tough and has a fishy taste (malangsa). That’s because the local ducks often cooked are the culls whose meat is tough.

Once they taste the fleshy and tender meat of the 49-days-old Pekin duck of Dr. Cruz, their impression of duck meat would be totally different.

By Zac B. Sarian

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Posted on May 8th, 2011 under Poultry. Tags: Duck, Poultry. RSS 2.0 feed. Leave a response, ortrackback.

19 Responses to “Pekin Duck : Fast-growing Money-maker”

1. Ricardo Binos Says: May 9th, 2011 at 2:51 am

Good day,

Where we can get Pekin Duck (Ducling> Im interested to venture in this project.Thanks.

2. alex arguelles Says: May 9th, 2011 at 9:00 pm

where can i acquire some peking duck ducklings sir..

3. Jovy B. Says: May 10th, 2011 at 6:25 pm

Hi Sir,

Is there a government or any organization who conduct seminar for those who want to venture into Peking duck growing.

4. Joerey Lapingcao Says: May 13th, 2011 at 8:58 pm

hi, where can i purchase this pekin duck? how much is the price per head?

5. ken nielsen Says: May 14th, 2011 at 6:42 pm

Where can I obtain some Pekin Ducklings?

6. Fred Mendoza Says: May 16th, 2011 at 11:36 am

Hello,

I am interested in venturing into this Pekin ducks raising.Where can I purchase duckings, I am coming from Tarlac

7. Dlezalyn Viojan Says: May 18th, 2011 at 6:13 am

Hi Sir where can I purchase the ducklings and Is there a seminar on how to raise it. Thanks 

8. jay romano Says: May 18th, 2011 at 9:27 pm

a pleasant day sir, im from cagayan valley, Where can i buy Pekin Duck (duckling)?

9. SONNY AGUILA KALALO Says: May 22nd, 2011 at 2:45 pm

A PLEASANT DAY SIR,I AM FROM ROSARIO, BATANGAS. I AM INTERESTED IN PEKING DUCK RAISING, PLEASE GIVE ME SOME GUIDANCE AND ADVISES HOW TO START AND WHERE TO PURCHASE DUCKLINGS OF THIS BREED. THANK YOU AND GOD BLESS.

10.rachelle magsino Says: May 25th, 2011 at 3:11 am

dear sir,I’m impressed with your article and im interested as well. Just want to know, where and how I can purchase ducks. It’s my pleasure to hear from you. thank you and God bless!

11.Xerdan Tianes Says: May 27th, 2011 at 1:07 am

Sir Erwin, I’m from Bicol. San po pwedeng bilhin ang seho nyang F1 pekin duck?Thank you and God Bless.

12.javier t. sagarbarria Says: May 28th, 2011 at 3:04 pm

hi. i am very much interested to raise pekin duck. may i know where to buy the day old ducklings.would appreciate it very much if you could help me on my querry. daghang salamat.

13.Ferdie Songco Says: June 2nd, 2011 at 1:03 am

where can I purchase peking ducks? I live in North Caloocan.

14.eric church Says: June 2nd, 2011 at 2:29 am

Sir i am very interested in raising ducks,,,,,,located in ilocos norte. please tell me where and how i may purchase the ducklings. thank you

15.Xerdan Tianes Says: June 2nd, 2011 at 5:21 pm

Hey guys! Mayroon na bang nag reply sa mga queries ninyo? Sa akin wala pa until now. I am starting to wonder if the article above is really true. What do you think?

16.greggtiu Says: June 2nd, 2011 at 10:45 pm

I’m very much interested in raising peking duck. Kindly send me some brochure. How many square meters required for every 100 heads?

17.Dennis Says: June 5th, 2011 at 11:44 pm

Hi,

At first glance, the simple mathematics looks very promising which is good that’s why i’m having a little bit of interests until i have a full/partial knowledge on how to start en eventually no end for this agri business.

If you can somehow, send me important details that will be usefull to the business, it’ll be much appreciated..

Regards,

Dennis

18.jojo alvarez Says: June 6th, 2011 at 8:27 am

hi. i am very much interested to raise pekin duck.here,s my numberjust in case may maka alam sa inyo salamat0920 435 9595

19.doreen Says: June 9th, 2011 at 1:16 am

Hello! I’m very interested to start raising pekin duck.Could you give the a number where I can purchase ducklings?thanks here’s my number 09166679358

Duck Meat And Egg Production (Part 1)Have you been wanting, your own duck business? Here’s a non-sense guide to jumpstart your way to success.

Duck production is one of the most profitable livestock industries in the Philippines mainly because of its egg which can be marketed through different channels. Duck eggs, both in fresh

and preserved forms, are sold and consumed daily throughout the country. Duck meat is also gaining ground in the market today.

Duck production in Asia accounts for more than 80% of total world production, as ducks have been traditionally raised alongside fish farming and rice production. 90% of total duck egg production in the country is used for balut-making. Offsized and infertile eggs are used for processing of century eggs and salted eggs. Dead embryos are sold as penoy. Meat-type ducks are also raised for restaurants, while home consumption duck meat is derived from excess males and culled layers from egg-type ducks.

The demand for duck products in the Philippines continually rises indicating that the duck industry can be a lucrative enterprise. Duck egg production rose from 33400 tonnes in 1991 to 53,63o tones in 2002 with the average growth rate of 4.03%. Duck meat production rose from dressed weight 6,513 tonnes in 1991 to 11,057 tonnes in 2002 with the average growth rate of 4.51%.

Duck production in the Philippines is close to self-sufficient. For the cycle 1991 to 2002, only 0.33% of total duck egg supply and 2% of total duck meat supply came from imports. Duck meat and egg production in the country was valued at Php 2.67 B in 2002, which was relatively higher than production of carabao, goat and dairy cattle, which were Php 2.53 B, Php2.28 billion pesos and P76.07 M pesos respectively. Duck production can be a very rewarding enterprise in the country today.

Duck types and breedsBackyard duck farming dominates duck production with more than 75% of total ducks raised in the Philippines today. Small flocks are commonly raised by rural households as they can subsist under a wide range of climactic conditions on various feeds and are resistant to common avian diseases. Ducks are primarily raised for balut and egg production; however, as the market for duck meat increases, more meat-type breeds are also available commercially.

Egg-type breeds Commercial hybridThe Commercial Hybrid breed is characterized by its white plummage. This breed lays eggs at approximately age 20 weeks and has a body weight of 1.5o kg at point of lay. The Commercial Hybrid averagely lays 285 eggs for up to age 72 weeks. Commercial Hybrid eggs are often white or greenish. Commercial Hybrids are also known as CV2ooo and were developed at Cherry Valley Farms in England.

Indian RunnerThe Indian Runner originated-from the East Indies. However, its egg production capacity was developed in Western Europe. This breed is characterized by a very erect normal posture and an almost straight neck. The duck’s back is long, straight and narrow. This breed was referred to as ‘Penguin Ducks’ by Dutch explorers and some of the early importers. Indian Runners are a relatively small breed of duck, with the standard listing 1.6-2.25kg (3.5-5lb) for drakes and 1.35-2 kg (3-4.5lb) for ducks. Drakesare 65-80cm (26-32 in.), ducks 60-70 cm (24-28 in.).

The Indian Runner has an incredible reputation for egg-laying. Indian Runners produce large quantities of eggs. The ducks themselves have enough flesh on them to feed two people and their meat is less fatty than other duck breeds.

Khaki CampbellThe Khaki Campbell breed was originally bred by a Mrs Campbell in England, by crossing a Rouen drake with a fawn and white Indian Runner duck to produce a dual-purpose breed. It lays eggs with a pearly white shell and is preferred by most breeders for commercial egg production.

Khaki Campbells are characterized by a deep, compact, and fairly wide body and a slightly sloping back with the abdomen well developed but not sagging; carriage is slightly upright. Khaki Campbells are extremely active and show little desire for swimming. They lay as many as 300 or more eggs in a year. Their eggs are fairly large and thick-shelled, and weigh 70 to 75 grams each.

NativeThe Native or Pateros breed is commonly known as the itik. This breed is most popularly raised locally. The Pateros breed is relatively smaller than imported breeds but they produce rather large eggs and are good layers and non-sitters. Native ducks are predominantly black and gray, while others are brown or have white plumage mixed with black/green. Male natives have coarser heads and have heavier bodies than females. Males emit high-pitched sounds while females emit low-pitched quacking sounds. Males have curly feathers at the top of their tails. Females have their tail feathers lying flat or close to their bodies. At age two to three days, the sex of the duckling is determined at commercial duck hatcheries.

TsaiyaThe Tsaiya breed was developed in Taiwan. This breed’s color ranges from black neck to pure white. However, the brown breed was selected and raised as the major variety as per farmers’ preference. The white variety was developed for production of mule ducks. Tsaiya ducks have a small body size. An adult female weighs approximately 1.30Kg and the male Tsaiya weighs approximately 1.40 Kg. Tsaiya eggs weigh about 68 grams. The average age at just egg is 126 days. Tsaiya ducks lay approximately 207 eggs in 320 days.

Meat-type breedsMuscovyThe Muscovy breed is locally known as pato. It is easily identified by its red knobby nodules along the eyes and above the base of the bill.

Muscovy is a heavy breed. It has low egg production, hatching eggs at age 33 to 35 days. However, the Muscovy is more self-sustaining than the Pateros breed. Muscovy ducks prefer to stay on land. They are great foragers and can sustain on what they pick up in the field, supplemented only with corn and palay. This breed has a tendency to fly away and get lost. Thus, their flight feathers must be clipped regularly.

PekinThe Pekin breed is native to China. It is oftentimes mistaken as a goose mainly because of it carries its body upright. It is docile and is well-adapted to the climate in the Philippines. Pekin ducks are good layers. Pekin ducklings are ready for market at age two to three months.

Duck raising in the Philippines Ducks are a relatively low-maintenance, self-sustaining livestock enterprise in the Philippines. However it is prudent to take necessary precautions and implementations to maximize profit.

to be continued…

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Posted on June 7th, 2009 under Poultry. Tags: Duck, Duck Meat, Eggs, Meat. RSS 2.0 feed. Leave a response, or trackback.

14 Responses to “Duck Meat And Egg Production (Part 1)”

1. alan Says: July 12th, 2009 at 2:57 am

good afternoon sir| mam, atleast how many eggs can produce in a duck if u have 1000 ducks?

2. Johnny Says: August 13th, 2009 at 11:27 am

Where can we get Indian Runner in the Philippines.

3. Johnny Says: August 13th, 2009 at 11:27 am

Where can we get Indian Runner in the Philippines?

4. Janneth Reyes Says: November 27th, 2009 at 2:51 pm

HiI live in Pandi Bulacan where can I sell ducks and duck eggs?please email me soon as possible where I can sell my ducks .Please give me a number of someone that buys ducks for a high price. please email me at janeth@global-sky.com Hoping to hear from someone soon.

5. ravindra Says: December 7th, 2009 at 10:04 am

HiI am ravindra from india wnated to set up meat duck form

please help me in getting parent duck(Laying type) for meat educk production.

kindly revert back from where i can import.

ThanksRavindraravindra_kavi2003@yahoo.com

6. mourthi Says: December 29th, 2009 at 5:09 am

i am a duck breader.currently having 10,000 birdsi am searching for a buyer

7. ravindra Says: January 6th, 2010 at 1:56 am

Hu Mourthi

please find my contact number 0988553567 from india (hyderabad)

I am ravindra from india wnated to set up meat duck form

please help me in getting parent duck(Laying type) for meat educk production.

kindly revert back from where i can import.

Thanks & RegardsRavindra9866553567

8. CHARLES B. ALINSON Says: March 18th, 2010 at 12:49 am

Is there a duck egg hatchery/incubators in bulacan. pls. tell me the exact address.

thank you

9. rain Says: June 12th, 2010 at 11:40 pm

I have ducks farm in Nueva Ecija , please call me if you are interested to buy ducks . My contact no. 09155269341

10.binu Says: November 1st, 2010 at 9:58 pm

i am living in hyderabad. I need duck eggs.. for more than 30 individuals.. pls give details if anybody knows the availability in hyderabad

11.letlet Says: November 20th, 2010 at 6:21 pm

hi i really wanted to have a ducks (bebe) in the farm but its hard in our area to put them everyday in the ricefarm where they can find their foods… any idea if there are feeds we can buy for them so that they dont need to be in rice farm everyday?or how to make foods for them that can help them, produce eggs everyday?…pls help me this is my email add: xena.lynn@yahoo.com…ty

12.rick Says: December 16th, 2010 at 2:54 pm

I AM PURCHASING LAND IN COAYAN, ILOCOS SUR AND WANT TO START A DUCK FARM. HOW MUCH IS THE GOING PRICE TO PURCHASE BABY DUCKLINGS AND ALSO BABY CHICKENS? THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP.

13.PETER Says: March 28th, 2011 at 1:32 am

i am wanting to buy some pure bred Khaki Campbell ducks with high egg production similar to the UK. please can you advise on any names of specialist breeders or farmers in the Phil with this type of duck. Thankyou

14.P.T Subramanian Says: May 10th, 2011 at 7:36 am

we are interested in the business of duck eggs and baby ducks. if u are interested, send price and mode of transport.

regardsP.T Subramanianph : 91 9656 105454mail : kpdymaney@gmail.com

Duck Meat and Egg Production (Part 2)Have you been wanting to start your own duck business? Here’s a no-nonsense guide to jumpstart your way to success.

A small flock of ducks may be raised in the backyard at a low cost. Apart from the brooder, which is needed for the first week or so, facilities and equipment for duck raising are fairly simple. Duck houses must be built in a quiet, cool place and should be at a nearest possible location to a stream or pond. Suitable local materials include bamboo, nipa and cogon. The duck house is ideally located on a well-drained area. Sandy soil is preferable for the duck yard as it drains easily after a rain. The earth floor of the duck house should be bedded with dry absorbent material such as straw or shavings. A low fencing of approximately 61cm is adequate for breeds that are not adept to becoming airborne like Pekins.

However, there two types of commercial duck housing, which are total confinement and semiconfinement. Modern total confinement housing is well insulated and mechanically ventilated. Ducks are isolated in age groups, whether in separate buildings or in separate pens with a solid partition between them. There are also two types of floor design, all wire mesh or a combination of litter and wire mesh with waterers located on the wire.

Water fowl drink excretes more water than land fowl. Thus there is extra demand on the ventilation and heating systems to remove extra moisture and maintain the ideal temperature. Ventilation systems in commercial duck houses may be the negative pressure type with adjustable or automatically controlled air inlets and exhaust fans located along the side walls.

Modern confined duck housing, when properly designed and managed, is capable of providing ducks with a high degree of protection from harmful effects of extreme weather and entry of avian diseases. It is ideal to have the advise of an agricultural engineer who is familiar with duck housing when designing the buildings, if it is available. The structure should be able to exclude wild birds from the buildings to prevent introduction and spread of diseases. Modern commercial duck housing helps to allow year-round production and marketing at an earlier age, and improves feed  conversion and allows for a more predictable and usually better weight-gain.

Semi-confinement duck housing, on the other hand, allows ducks at age over two to three weeks to go outdoors during the day. Ducks at age over four weeks may spend their time outdoors with minimum usage of the shelter.

A swimming pond may be provided with measurements of 10.0 feet wide and 20.0 feet long for every 50 ducks.

Ducks may be grouped according to size or age. This facilitates management and minimize fights as these are common for ducks of different ages. Older ducks tend to push out younger ducks from the feeders.

Flooring and floor space Overcrowding can be detrimental to the ducks’ health, growth, and egg production. Adequate

floor space should be provided at each stage of the brood’s development. Undercrowding may not be a problem in duck raising, however, ducks should be stocked at recommended density when in cold weather so the body heat can warm up the room.Each duck should be provided, with at least three to four feet of floor space. A shelter housing 100 ducks should be ideally measured at 4 x 4 meters and 3 meters high or high enough to allow a man to stand inside. The floor may be covered with rice hulls, corn cobs, peanut hulls or the like. These materials kept the flooring dry and clean thus preventing the spread of pests and diseases.

Indoor floor space allotments for ducks should follow recommended space for each growth stage. At age one week, each duck should be provided with at least 0.31 sq ft or 289 sq cm. At age two weeks, ducks should be provided with 0.62 sq ft or 576 sq cm. At age three weeks, 1.10 sq ft or 1024 sq cm. At age four weeks, 1.47 sq ft or 1369 sq cm. At age five weeks, 1.9o sq ft or 1764 sq cm. At age six weeks, 2.28 sq ft or 2116 sq cm. At age seven weeks, 2.48 sq ft or 2304 sq cm. Developing breeders must be provided with 2.69 sq ft each or 2500 sq cm, while laying breeders require 3.02 Sq ft or 2809 sq cm. Ducks allowed outdoors should have twice as much outdoor space as allowed indoors.

It is important to ensure that the shelter flooring is free from materials that can injure the skin covering the feet and hock joints of the animals. The smooth skin of ducks is not as tough as that of land fowl, and is more susceptible to injury when ducks are confined on surfaces that are too rough, or abrasive. Feet and leg injuries may be caused by slats, wire floors or cage bottoms unless these are smooth, non-abrasive and free of sharp edges. Stones combined with the soil in the duck .yard may also cause injury. Damaging effects of flooring on ducks increases with age and size of the animal as well as the time duration the ducks are exposed to the flooring. However, the probability of injury is significantly reduced if the wire floors are minimized to one-fourth to one third of the floor area. Wire floors, when properly constructed, may be better than slats. Slats can cause leg deformities and skin injuries. Wire floors for ducklings under age three weeks should be constructed of 1.90 cm or 3/4 inch mesh, 12-gauge welded wire, and should be attached to a frame designed to keep the wire flat and minimize litter accumulation. Recommended measurement for ducks aged more than three weeks is 2.5cm or 1.0 inch mesh. Vinyl coated wire is ideal, however smooth galvanized wire is also satisfactory.

Litter managementDucks drink and excrete more water than land fowl. Duck droppings contain more than 90% moisture thus extra measures are necessary to maintain litter floors inside sheltered areas in dry condition. Fresh bedding should be regularly added on top of soiled or wet bedding. Old litter should be cleaned out regularly and replaced with a fresh batch.

Ducks in semi-confinement grow where ducklings spend most of their time outdoors during the day after the first three weeks, waterers should be located outside as far away from the house as possible. This reduces tracking water to the litter. Duck yards may be maintained in clean condition by removing the upper few inches of the soil and replaced with clean soil when necessary.

VentilationBackyard duck houses or small flock duck houses do not necessarily need mechanical ventilation such as those in commercial duck buildings. Nevertheless, small duck houses enclosed on all sides still require proper ventilation. Adequate air exchange may be provided by window openings and ridge ventilations. Larger duck houses that are enclosed on all sides may be equipped with ventilation fans.

Commercial duck buildings should be designed with the advise of an agricultural engineer or expert to provide proper ventilation to the shelter.

LightingSupplemental lighting, when provided, greatly increases the laying period of ducks. Lack of supplemental lighting makes egg production seasonal and dependent on natural day length. By adding artificial light, the daily light period is extended to 14 hours and prevent any decrease in day length provides adequate light stimulation for ducks to lay eggs continuously for seven to 12 months depending on their ability to lay and other conditions.

In semi-confinement growing, it is ideal to turn artificial lights on at a set time before sunrise and off after sunrise, and on again before sunset and off again after sunset to maintain a constant light period of 14 hours and a dark period of io hours each day. This may be accomplished through the assistance of electric time clocks that turn lights on and off at set times. However, if timers cannot be used, lights may be left on 24 hours a day or switched on and off manually as necessary. Forty watt light bulbs, 8 feet or 2.4 m to 10 feet or 3 m high, spaced 14 feet or 4.3 m apart provides ample light ( one foot candle at duck eye level) to stimulate egg production.

Growing ducks, however, do not necessarily require artificial light. Ducks are nocturnal and can feed and water in the dark, although artificial lighting is needed during the first few days as the ducklings will need assistance in getting started in drinking and eating in the dark. Supplemental lighting should be provided for the first three weeks. Growing ducks in totally confined shelters as in commercial production will require some light every day.

Dim light from low wattage bulbs can help – at night to prevent stampeding if the flock is disturbed. Increases or decreases in day length should be avoided as much as possible during the development period of breeder-laver ducks.

Feeders and feeding spaceMost feeders for chicken and other poultry are acceptable for ducks, granted they are provided with ample space for the larger bill of ducks and their shoveling eating motion. Trough feeders may be used if ducks are handfed. When using feed hoppers, they should be constructed so that feed will slide down freely into the bottom of the hopper as feed is consumed. Feed wastage can be prevented by providing an apron in front of the feeding area. This catches the feed that is dropped or billed out.

Ducklings eat frequently during the early growth stages. The need to cat becomes less frequent as they grow older, as they are able to store increasing amounts of feed in their esophagus at each feeding. At age four weeks, Pekin ducks are able to consume at least 100 grams of pellets at a single feeding. For the first three weeks, each animal must be provided with 2.50 cm or inch feeder space. This space may be gradually reduced by half as long as there is no crowding at the feed hoppers. Developing breeders that are being fed with a daily allotted feeding must be provided with ample feeding space so that all birds can eat at once. This requires about 10.0 cm or 4 inches of linear space per duck.

One Response to “Duck Meat and Egg Production (Part 2)”

1. Abdul Hollaway  Says: June 6th, 2011 at 6:23 pm

Please, do NOT get a ferret. Ferrets are great pets, but they will always smell like ferrets. Also, thoug potty trainable, they will never be 100% and will occasionally miss. Unless you can pay to replace the carpet, don’t even think about it.

Duck Meat and Egg Production (Part 3)Waterers used for other poultry like chicken may be used for ducks. However, the size of the duck’s bill should be considered. Waterers such as troughs, cans, or jar-type equipment may be used provided the drinking area is at least 4.0 cm wide. This also applies to automatic trough, cup or Plasson waterers. When using nipple waterers, they should be adjusted to the height of the ducks.

For ducks raised indoors where the floor is bedded with litter, waterers should be located on a wire-mesh screen to reduce wetting of the litter. Commercial duck houses are recommended to have a cement floor drain underneath the water screens.

Starting and growing ducks must be provided with minimum of 2.5 cm or 1 inch of linear watering space per animal. Developing and laying breeders should be provided with 5.0 CRl or 2 inches watering space. When using nipple waterers, 15 nipples should be provided for every 100 starting and growing dticks. Developing and laying breeders should be provided with 20 nipples for every too ducks. Starting ducklings should always have access to watering cans, troughs or jars until the v are able to drink from nipple waterers.

MatingBreeders must be selected at age eight weeks and again at age 4 to 5 months before they are placed in breeding pens. Vigorous breeding stock should be selected. To ensure better fertility, hatchability, and livability of offspring, eggs for breeding purposes must come from ducks of at least age seven months. Drakes should have the same age as the ducks, or even a month older. Drake should be raised separately from ducks and should be placed with the ducks only when they are ready for mating.

The duck-drake ratio for mating may be 6 drakes to 10 ducks. Heavier breeds must have a closer ration of males to females when mating, than light breeds. Pateros ducks are ready for laying at age 4 to 6 months. Pekin and Muscovy ducks start laying at age 6 to 7 months.

HatchingInformation and techniques used for incubating and hatching chicken eggs may also be used for ducks. It is however important to take the differences of the two species into account.

Trays must be designed to accommodate the duck egg’s larger size. Like Pekin eggs, the average duck egg usually takes 28 days to hatch. Muscovy duck eggs hatch in about 35 days after setting. Large commercial incubators or setters may be used for hatching a large number of duck eggs. Pekin duck eggs are kept in a setter for 25 days. After which, they are then transferred on the 25th day to a hatcher where they remain until they hatch on the 28th day. Eggs must be turned hourly while in the setter, but not in the hatcher. Eggs must be stored at a temperature and humidity level that will minimize deterioration of the egg if they are stored for a while before being set. Eggs must be stored at approximately 13°C and 75% relative humidity.

Duck eggs can be hatched naturally by placing them under a broody duck or a broody chicken hen. The Muscow breed has natural motherly instincts. The Muscovy duck hatches and breeds her own duckling with minimal or no help from caretakers. Muscovy ducks are capable of hatching twelve to fifteen eggs. The nest box must be located in a clean dry shelter and bedded with suitable litter. Feed and water should be available for the broody (luck as well as for the ducklings when they hatch.

However, the Native or Pateros duck is a non-sitter, therefore her eggs are incubated using the native method of incubation known as the balutan.

The balutan or native hatchery is a simple one-room house ustialiv,built with bamboo, wood or hollow blocks with nipa or galvanized iron roofing. Other backyard farmers use the first floor of their house as the balutan or hatchery. This is called the kamalig or barn. It only has one door to prevent drafts, and some have windows that are opened only during the high temperature months. Its flooring is of hard earth or concrete and is covered with three inches of rice hull. Egg containers used are wooden boxes of 3×4x4 ft measurement.

For commercial hatcheries however, basic procedures and conditions for hatching are as follows.1. For new incubators not yet in operation, the incubator should be started one to two days before setting the eggs to stabilize temperature and humidity. Temperature should be set at 37.5°C and relative humidity at 55%. Ventilation should be set as recommended by the incubator manufacturer. Eggs must be turned automatically or by hand at least four times per day. Most automatic turning equipment are set to turn eggs hourly;

2. Eggs to be set should be selected carefully by inspecting and candling them at the time they are put in trays. Eggs that are cracked, double-yolked, misshapen, oversized, undersized or dirty must not be set. Eggs must be set within one to three days after they are laid, to obtain best results. There is an average loss of about 3% hatchability for eggs stored 7 days before setting, and about 10% loss for those stored 14 days. Eggs must beset small end down, except when using small incubators that have no trays;

3. On the day of the setting, eggs must be placed in the incubator, and left to allow the incubator to reach operating temperature. On the first day, regularly check to see if the incubator is working properly. After which, continue checking at least four times every day;

4. Eggs must be checked and candled seven days after setting. Infertile eggs (clear) and eggs that have dead germ (cloudy) should be removed;

5. Eggs (Pekin and breeds other than Muscovy) must be transferred to hatching trays twenty-five days after setting. If eggs are hatched in a separate machine, they should be moved to the hatcher. Eggs must be candled, and eggs with dead embryos removed. The temperature of the hatcher at the time of transfer must be 37.2°C and the humidity set at 65%. As the hatch progresses, and eggs begin to pip, increase the humidity to 8o%. Ventilation openings must be increased by 50%. As the hatch nears completion gradually lower the temperature and humidity so that by the end of the hatch the temperature is at 36.1′C, and the humidity is at 70%. Vents must be opened to their maximum setting by the end of the hatch. Ducklings must be removed from the hatcher when 90-95% of them are dry.

Care of ducklingsMost information and technology for brooding chicks may be applied to ducklings. Ducklings hatched artificially must be provided with a warm and dry brooding area that is free of drafts. The brooding area must also be maintained to be rat proof. Ducklings should be provided with a source of heat at least until they -are age one week. Feed and drinking water must be situated near the heat source so that ducklings will learn to eat and drink after they are placed in the brooder. Ducklings that have not learned to drink within a few hours may need assistance, thus the caretaker must dip their bills in the drinking water to coax them to start drinking. Earth or cement floors must be bedded with clean dry litter such as wood shavings, rice hulls and similar

materials. Woven bamboo mats and sawali may also be used as floor mats. Newspapers may be put down on wire floors for the first few days if there is a draft problem.

During the months of January and February when nights are cooler, artificial heat should be provided for at least 10 days. Kerosene lamps and electric bulbs are sufficient heat sources.

Ducklings require 30 °C temperature at the time of hatching as they are not yet able to regulate their body temperature. They develop the ability to produce and conserve heat and regulate their body temperature as they grow older. They will be able to better regulate their body temperature after the duckling is fully covered with feathers and down. At age seven days, ducklings should be provided with optimum temperature of 27°C; at age 14 days, 23°C, at age 21 days, 19°C; at age 28 days, 15°C; and 13°C at age 35 days until about 49 days. Developing and laying breeders also have the optimum temperature of 13 °C.

A good indication if ducklings receive ideal brooding temperature is their behavior toward the heat source. Ducklings huddle close to the heat source when temperature is too low and pant away from the heat source if it is too high. Ideal temperature is reached when ducklings are spread evenly in the brooder.

Ducklings should be sexed before placing in the brooder. Males intended for meat purposes must be raised separately from the females. Ducklings are transferred from the brooder to the growing house when they are age six weeks. Layers on the other hand, must be transferred from the brooder to the laying house at age four months.

Nutrition and healthDucks should be provided with all their needed nutrients regardless of how they obtain their food. Backyard ducks that are able to forage may be able to survive, grow, and lay eggs by consuming available food by consuming green plants, insects, table scraps, crop residues and spillage. However, ducks feeding as suck will grow very slowly and produce a small number of eggs.

Backyard farmers must provide supplemental feed to increase growth rate and egg production. Ducklings should be provided with a wet starter mash for eight weeks.

Native ducks raised in the native method are fed four to five times a day with moistened boiled rice for the first 33 weeks. Feed must be given at night for the first few days. Drinking water must be provided in troughs or fountains on the second day. At age one month, ducks may be fed with small fresh water snails and boiled palay (unhulled rice). Wet mash easily spoils when left in the troughs for long periods thus only feed to be consumed within ten to fifteen minutes must be placed in troughs.

Corn, soybean meal, fish meal, dried whey, rice bran with oyster shell and bone meal with vitamin-mineral supplements may consist the mash feed for duckling. At age one day to six weeks, ducklings must be fed with a starter mash with 10% -21% crude protein. At age six weeks to four months, ducks may be fed with a grower mash with sixteen percent protein. At age four months and above, a layer mash with sixteen percent crude protein may be provided. Ducklings learn to eat more readily if feed is given at intervals. Their appetites are developed to fill up in between drinks, digest food quickly and be ready to eat for the next feeding time. At age five weeks, ducks may be given green feed such as chopped leaves of kangkong, camote, ipil-ipil and legumes at a minimum of three times a day. Ten grams of green leaves per duck per day is sufficient.

Pellets may also be introduced as feeds to the animals. The pellet system is a feed-saving device. Pellets of each kind of feed are ideal, however, pellet size must be suitable to the duck’s age.

to be continued…

By Carmela Abaygar

Duck Meat and Egg Production (Part 4)Vaccination and medication programs must be administered to the animals to prevent viral infections and bacterial diseases. Ducklings at age one day to seven days must be administered with antibiotic or sulfa drug preparation through drinking water to prevent bacterial infections like salmonellosis, collibacilosis and staphyloccosis. At age eight to 14 days, ducklings may be given antibiotic-vitamin-mineral mixture through their drinking water to increase the animal’s resistance against bacterial diseases. Ducklings aged 21-28 days may be given multivitamins to increase their resistance.

During stressful conditions like a change in climate, ducks at age two to four months may be given antibiotic vitamin-mineral mixture to be administered through their drinking water. Fowl

cholera vaccine may be given to the ducks at age four and a half months by way of intramuscular or subcutaneous injection. An antibiotic vitamin mineral mixture must be given to the animals three days before administration of vaccine and again three days after to combat stress. During the laying months, antibiotic vitamin-mineral mixture may be given when needed. Sulfa drugs should not be administered during the laying period unless absolutely necessary.

Disease prevention and controlAlthough much of chicken raising techniques and information are applicable to ducks, they are more resistant to diseases than chicken and other fowl. Proper management, sufficient proper feeding and housing, strict sanitary practices and an effective medication and vaccination program can prevent loss from a variety of causes. Diseases are a major cause in losses even in duck farms using precautionary measures. It is therefore important to be knowledgeable on disease prevention and control in the duck house.

Two kinds of diseases are infectious and non-infectious. Infectious diseases are caused by pathogenic viruses, bacteria, fungi and parasites. Noninfectious diseases are caused by chemical poisons, toxins, environmental factors and inferior rations.Prevention of diseases starts at the selection of stock. Stock should only be purchased from reliable and trusted hatcheries. Only healthy ducks should be raised in the duck house. Sick animals should be immediately culled and properly disposed to prevent spread of infection. Dead ducks must be burned or buried immediately to prevent flies from breeding on the decomposing animal and prevent maggots from being ingested by other ducks.

Newly arrived stock should be quarantined for at least two weeks before introducing them to the flock as outbreak of diseases can occur by introducing carrier ducks to the flock.

Ducks fed with an unbalanced ration are prone to diseases, thus ducks should only be fed with properly balanced rations. Fresh, cool and clean drinking water should be provided at all times.

Waterers should be cleaned at least once per day. Dirty and polluted water is harmful to the duck’s health, affecting overall performance. Feeders should be strictly kept clean and dry. Ducks are highly susceptible to aflatoxicosis and wet feeders are prone to yeast growth and harmful bacteria, which are sources of mycotoxins like aflatoxin, ocratoxin and the like. Clean and dry litter should be provided at all times, as well as a well ventilated dry flooring or litter.

Pens should be constructed to secure the ducks from other animals like dogs, cats and rats that can be possible disease carriers. Pens must not be overstocked or overcrowded. Stress-causing activities should be avoided as these decreases production. Delivery trucks and outsiders should be prohibited from entering the production areas as they can be carriers of disease-causing organisms. Footbaths must be installed in strategic locations should entry of foreign elements is inevitable.

Live and mites may be prevented and controlled by spraying the ducks with insecticides at least once a year. This also controls other arthropods that can be detrimental to the health and production of ducklings. Decomposed feed must not be given to ducks at any time.

Production and health records must be kept and updated regularly. The farm should also be supervised closely.

Common duck diseases

Bacterial infectionsDucks are vulnerable to a number of bacterial infections. It is difficult to make specific diagnosis as some cases involve mixed infections with two or more pathogenic microorganisms. The following are bacterial duck diseases that have been confirmed to be locally present.

Duck choleraDuck cholera is the most common disease afflicting duck houses. This disease may be acute or chronic. It may be a localized or generalized infectious disease that has a high morbidity and mortality rate. Duck cholera is principally caused by the microorganism Pateurella multocida. Other pathogens such as Aspergillus, Clostridium,    Escherichia and Salmonella have been associated with the disease.

Transmission of this disease may be by direct contact, ingestion of contaminated feed and drinking water and blood-sucking insects like mosquitoes.

Duck cholera comes in four forms characterized by their clinical manifestations. These four forms are locally known as buto-buto, dapa, tanga, and tuyo.

Buto-buto is a chronic form of duck cholera. This form is characterized by hard swelling of the leg joints. This form can persist for long periods. Affected duck may have a limping gait.

Dapa is characterized by the infected duck’s egg-layiug posture, with its head and neck in stooping position. Other signs of this infection include ventro-lateral recumbency with twisted neck and head. Other symptoms are depression, weakness, appetite loss, excessive intake of water and absence of egg production. Infected ducks will refuse to leave watering troughs even if they are driven away. Morbidity can reach 90%, although mortality may be lower than that of Tanga form.

Tanga is the most acute form of duck cholera. This form of the-disease may cause the ducks to die suddenly, assuming a recumbent position with extended head, open mouth, and open eyes in a staring manner. Some dead ducks may appear like statues and only close inspection reveals they are dead. Mortality rate of this form ranges from 70 to 90%.

Tuyo is a chronic form of duck cholera. This form is characterized by progressive emaciation and dehydration, weakness, poor appetite, and ruffled feathers that lack luster. Ducks infected with this form of duck cholera are very thin. Infected animals are skin and bones, thus the term tuyo. Tuyo takes place after a dapa outbreak. This form persists for weeks or months before death.

Prevention of this disease may be done by strict sanitation practices, thorough cleaning of feeders and waterers, supplying clean fresh drinking water at all times, immediate isolation of infected animals, and administration of polyvalent vaccine.

This disease may be treated with a high level antibiotic and sulfa drug therapy.

to be continued…

By Carmela Abaygar

Popularity: 5%

Duck Meat and Egg Production (Conclusion)Samonellosis is a bacterial disease affecting ducklings. This is caused by Salmonella anatum and S. typhimurium. This disease is characterized by diarrhea and dehydration, ruffled feathers, dry sunken eyes, leg swelling and sudden collapse. Salmonellosis is transmitted through direct contact and ingestion of contaminated feed and water.

Salmonellosis may be prevented by strict sanitation practices, thorough and frequent cleaning and disinfection of feeders and waterers, and maintaining litter and ground to be clean and dry.

This disease may be treated by high level anti-biotic or sulfa-drug therapy.

Viral diseasesViral diseases  of ducks have not been confirmed to be present locally, and any incidence thereof may not have been documented properly. . The following are signs and symptoms of these diseases to serve as a guide to recognize them. Any suspected outbreak should be reported immediately to the Bureau of Aimal Industry, Department of Agriculture.

Duck plagueDuck plague affects ducks of all ages. This disease is characterized by sudden onset, high mortality and extreme weakness.

Duck plague is caused by a herpes virus usually acquired by direct contact or ingestion of contaminated water and feed.

Clinical manifestations of duck plague include loss of appetite, watery diarrhea, soiled vent, eye and nasal discharges, labored breathing, decreased egg production and a high mortality rate of 40 to 80 percent. Hemorrhages throughout the body are more visible i the visceral organs.

Duck plague may be controlled by administering vaccines, maintaining strict sanitation practices, isolating sick ducks immediately, and providing high level antibiotic vitamin-mineral medication.

Viral hepatitisViral hepatitis is an acute and highly contagious viral disease that affect only ducklings age four weeks and under. This disease is characterized by short incubation period, sudden onset, and a high mortality rate of up to 90%. This disease is transmitted through direct contact or ingestion of contaminated feed or water.

Clinical manifestations of this disease include lethargy, spasmodic paddling of feet, sudden death, and a high mortality rate. Viral hepatitis may be controlled by maintaining a strict satination practice and administering vaccines to healthy flock.

Marketing, costs and Return on Investment (ROI) The duck meat and egg industry have multiple channels for marketing. Duck eggs may either be sold fresh or processed. Processed eggs include: balut, penoy, salted duck eggs, and century eggs.

Producers may sell fresh duck eggs to middlemen or viajeros to retailers. Retailers include wet market traders, sari-sari store owners who sell eggs by piece.

The demand for fresh duck eggs is also met by supermarkets and groceries where fresh duck eggs are sold by the dozen or half dozen cartons. However, duck eggs may also be sold directly to the retailer from the farm.

Sorting is one of the most important keys to good marketing of duck eggs.

Eggs must be properly sorted before being sold from the farm to gain trust from clients. Eggs that are cracked, twin-yolked, off sized, or thin-shelled may be sold to the table egg market through traders to retailers. Otherwise, eggs are sold through traders to balutans or balut operators. Balut operators then sell balut and penoy through traders to retailers and day-old ducklings to egg-producers.

The balutans produce four types of processed eggs: Balut, penoy, century eggs, and salted eggs.

The demand for processed duck eggs remains year-round, however it peaks in certain months for certain products. Balut and penoy have a high demand level from October to January.

Demand level for salted eggs have been noted to increase in April. Eggs must be date marked to ensure that they are consumed before their use-by-date.

Balut and penoy are classified through their incubation period and embryo content. Balut mamatong are usually fertile eggs incubated for 14 to 16 days with a smaller embryo. Balut sa puti are fertile eggs incubated for 17 to 18 days with a larger embryo. Penoy sa sariwa are infertile eggs with no embryo, while penoy sa balut are eggs with dead embryo.

Costs must be taken into great consideration before getting into the duck industry. Duck farming costs include housing and brooder facilities and equipment, land allocation, ducklings, feeds and mashes, veterinary vaccines, medication, and supplements, water supply, heat, light and ventilation facilities, labor, and depreciation of facilities.

Return on Investment will come from duck sales for meat consumption, eggs for table consumption, and eggs for processing.

Income can also come from sales of good-condition empty feed bags.

Duck meat and balut now have an -increasing demand not only in the rural provinces but especially in the metro area. Duck meat is considered gourmet in the urban market and balut is now readily available in supermarkets and malls through franchise food stores. It is prudent to scout available market and demand in the area before venturing in the duck enterprise.

Popularity: 6%Related Articles Duck Meat And Egg Production (Part 1) Duck Meat and Egg Production (Part 4) Making Balut For Food and Profit The Improved Salted Duck Eggs From Ilocos Duck Meat and Egg Production (Part 3) Pekin Duck : Fast-growing Money-maker Use GAS as Duck Feed Swine Raising for Meat Production in the Philippines (Conclusion)

Popularity: 6%

Posted on October 8th, 2009 under Poultry. Tags: Disease, Duck, Egg, Salmonella, Virus. RSS 2.0feed. Leave a response, or trackback.

2 Responses to “Duck Meat and Egg Production (Conclusion)”

1. salvador olanga Says: July 14th, 2010 at 11:53 pm

Please provide me if possible contact number of direct dealer of Balut (Farm). Thank you in advance and I am hoping to hear your kind assistance t my e-mail add:salvadorolanga@yahoo.com

2. manaf Says: April 23rd, 2011 at 7:56 am

I am interested to know about the duck bussines