dubrovnik & the dalmatian coast - craenen

PETER DRAGICEVICH

DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ContentsPlan Your Trip 4Welcome to Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast .......4

Top Sights ............................6

Eating .................................10

Wine ....................................12

Drinking & Nightlife ..........14

For Kids ..............................16

Shopping ............................18

Beaches ............................ 20

Boat Cruises & Rental ..... 22

Walking Tours ................... 23

Four Perfect Days ............ 24

Need to Know ................... 26

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast Regions ............................. 28

Trogir (p154) JOHN AND TINA REID/GETTY IMAGES ©

Explore Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast 31Dubrovnik ......................... 33

Dalmatian Coast ............... 71

Korčula Town & Korčula Island ...................91

Hvar Town & Hvar Island ....................... 101

Bol & Brač Island ............ 113

Split ..................................123

Worth a TripLokrum Island .................. 66

Mljet National Park .......... 86

Salona ............................. 148

Klis Fortress ....................152

Trogir ............................... 154

Survival Guide 158Before You Go ................ 160

Arriving in Dalmatia........ 161

Getting Around ...............162

Essential Information ....163

Language ........................ 166

Index .................................169

Special FeaturesCity Walls & Forts ............ 34

Srđ .....................................40

Strolling through Ploče & Viktorija .............. 42

Beach-Hopping in Lapad ............................ 68

Ston Walls ..........................72

St Mark’s Cathedral ........ 92

Pakleni Islands ................102

Zlatni Rat ......................... 114

Diocletian’s Palace .........124

Bačvice & Firule Beach Life ....................... 130

Marjan Hill Hike ...............132

If your Mediterranean fantasies feature balmy days by sapphire waters in the shade of ancient walled towns, Dalmatia is the place to turn them into reality. The extraordinary island-speckled coastline is backed by rugged mountains and bookended by two of Croatia’s most intriguing cities: Dubrovnik, to the south, and Split, to the north.

Welcome to Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Dubrovnik (p33)S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©


Dubrovnik City Walls & FortsThe world’s finest city walls. p34

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Diocletian’s PalaceA vibrant, living, ancient quarter. p124

Mljet National Park

Forest, lakes and ancient ruins. p86

TrogirWorld Heritage walled city. p154

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DubrovnikAirport

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Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian CoastRegions

BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINASplit (p123)

A lively, buzzy city that’s both historic and modern.

Bol & Brač Island (p113)Central Dalmatia’s largest island has dramatic steep cliffs, inky waters and pine forests.

Hvar Town & Hvar Island (p101)The sunniest spot in the country, with elegant restaurants and a buzzing nightlife.


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Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian CoastRegions

BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINA

Korčula Town & Korčula Island (p91)Historic coastal citadel surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and villages.

Dubrovnik (p33)A unique, betwitching city in a sublime setting; the essence of a medieval Mediterranean fantasy.

Dalmatian Coast (p71)Historic towns and stunning beaches are strung along the coast, with a dramatic mountain backdrop.

ExploreDubrovnik & the Dalmatian CoastDubrovnik ........................................................33

Dalmatian Coast ..............................................71

Korčula Town & Korčula Island ................... 91

Hvar Town & Hvar Island .............................101

Bol & Brač Island ...........................................113

Split ................................................................. 123

Worth a Trip gLokrum Island ............................................................66

Mljet National Park ...................................................86

Salona ....................................................................... 148

Klis Fortress ............................................................. 152

Trogir ......................................................................... 154

Walking Tours cStrolling through Ploče & Viktorija ...................... 42

Beach-Hopping in Lapad .........................................68

Bačvice & Firule Beach Life ..................................130

Marjan Hill Hike ......................................................132

Hvar Town (p101) © S A N T I AG O U R Q U I J O/G E T T Y I M AG E S ©

Ringed by mighty defensive walls that dip their feet in the cerulean sea, Dubrovnik (population 28,500) encapsulates the very essence of a medieval Mediter-ranean fantasy. The city is simply unique; its beauty is bewitching, its setting sublime. Thousands of visitors walk along its marble streets every day, gazing, gasp-ing and happily snapping away.

Start with a walk around the City Walls (p34) and then descend into the old town to explore its labyrin-thine lanes and the grand spread of its main street, Placa. Take time to visit at least a few of its numerous churches, monasteries and museums, the top options being the Rector’s Palace (p46), War Photo Limited (p46) and the fresco-covered St Ignatius of Loyola Church (p47). Climb up to the cable car and take a ride to the top of Srđ (p40). Finish your day with a stroll through Ploče and Viktorija (p42), ending with a dip at Sveti Jakov Beach (p43).

DubrovnikExplore Y

Getting There & AroundDubrovnik’s old town is compact and car-free.A There’s a major international airport at Čilipi, just south of Dubrovnik.J Coaches head to Dubrovnik from neighbouring countries and from all over Croatia.N From April to November, car ferries travel between Dubrovnik and Bari in Italy. Local ferries link Dubrovnik to various islands and to Split.

Dubrovnik Map on p44

Dubrovnik’s Old Town C G E 20 10 /S H U T T E R STO C K ©

33

The coast of mainland Dalmatia is a stretch to be savoured by beach seekers, wine lovers and history buffs alike. All along its length, rugged mountains form a dramatic backdrop to a string of historic towns and beautiful pebbly beaches. Although tourism is in full swing here, there’s still plenty of lush Mediterranean greenery to enjoy, including pine forests, olive groves, vineyards and orchards.

Ideally you would throw in some beach time and stretch out your stay over a few days, but you can still see a lot on a single day’s drive up the coast. Start at Trsteno Arboretum (p75) then continue up the highway as far as the Pelješac Peninsula, turning off towards Ston. After exploring the walls (p72), stop for an oyster-filled lunch at Kapetanova Kuća (p73). Continue along the peninsula, pausing for a wine tasting (p76) on your way to the car ferry at Trpanj. Try to squeeze in a quick swim and look around Makarska before hitting Omiš in time for dinner.

Dalmatian CoastExplore Y

Getting There & AroundJ Coaches traverse the coast between Dubrovnik and Split regularly. Some turn inland and travel down the Pelješac Peninsula.N Car ferries head between Orebić and Korčula, Makarska and Brač, and Drvenik and Hvar. From June to September, catamarans also stop in Makarska en route between Split, Bol, Korčula, Mljet and Dubrovnik.

Dalmatian Coast Map on p74

Brela (p82) A N N A LU RY E /S H U T T E R STO C K ©

71

The economic importance of the salt industry to the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik) led, in 1333, to the construction of one of the longest fortifications in Europe, stretching clear across the isthmus that connects the Pelješac Peninsula with the mainland. Twenty towers and 5.5km of this extraordinary wall are still standing, arching far up the hill between the town of Ston and its diminutive sibling Mali (‘little’) Ston.

Top Sights ASton Walls

1 MAP P74, E4

Stonske zidineadult/child 70/30KNh8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, 9am-3pm Nov-Mar

Rich in vineyards, olive groves and small villages, and harbouring a glorious old town, the island of Korčula is the sixth-largest Adriatic island, stretching nearly 47km in length. Korčula Town is breathtaking. Ringed by imposing defences, this coastal citadel is dripping with history, its marble streets lined with Renaissance and Gothic buildings.

Start by wandering through Korčula’s old town, stop-ping to explore St Mark’s Cathedral (p92) and the Korčula Town Museum (p95). If you’re interested in religious art, call in to the Icon Museum (p95) and Ab-bey Treasury (p93). Take a drive to Konoba Mate (p98) for lunch. Afterwards, head down the steep hill to Pupnatska Luka for a swim before returning to Korčula Town in time for a sunset cocktail at Massimo (p99).

Korčula Town & Korčula Island

Explore Y

Getting There & AroundJ Routes connecting Ston, Dubrovnik and Split to Korčula Town use the Orebić car ferry.N Car ferries head between Orebić and Dominče, 3km east of Korčula Town, and between Split and Vela Luka. Catamarans head to Korčula Town’s West Harbour from Hvar and Split year-round, with seasonal services from Dubrovnik, Mljet, Makarska and Bol.

Korčula Town Map on p94

Korčula Town T U U L & B R U N O M O R A N D I /G E T T Y I M AG E S ©

91

Dominating the little square at Korčula’s heart is this magnificent 15th-century cathedral, built from Korčula limestone in a Gothic-Renaissance style by Italian and local artisans. The sculptural detail of the facade is intriguing, particularly the naked squatting figures of Adam and Eve on the door pillars, and the two-tailed mermaid and el-ephant on the triangular gable cornice at the top.

Top Sights ASt Mark’s Cathedral

1 MAP P94, C3

Katedrala svetog MarkaTrg Sv Markachurch 10KN, bell tower adult/child 20/15KNh9am-9pm Jul & Aug, hours vary Sep-Jun

Long, lean Hvar is vaguely shaped like the profile of a holidaymaker reclining on a sun lounger, which is appropriate for the sunniest spot in the country. His-toric Hvar Town has swanky hotels, multiple hostels, elegant restaurants, buzzy bars and a general sense that, if you care about seeing and being seen, this is the place to be.

You can knock off all of Hvar Town’s sights in half a day, starting with a hike up to Fortica (p105) before it gets too hot. Wander down through the walled town to St Stephen’s Cathedral (p105) and the Episcopal Museum (p106), then stroll along the waterfront to the Franciscan Monastery (p106). In the afternoon, either head to the Pakleni Islands for some beach time or take a trip to Stari Grad (p108), the island’s oldest town. Aim to be at Hula-Hula Hvar (p111) at sunset. Grab a bite to eat, then join the party crowd at Kiva Bar (p111).

Hvar Town & Hvar Island

Explore Y

Getting There & AroundN Car ferries head to Stari Grad (from Split) and to Sućuraj (from Drvenik). Catamarans head to Hvar Town (from Split and Korčula year-round, and seasonally from Bol, Mljet and Dubrovnik) and Jelsa (from Split and Bol).J Services connect Hvar Town with Stari Grad (30KN, 30 minutes) and Jelsa (33KN, 50 minutes).

Hvar Town Map on 104

Hvar Town X B R C H X / 5 0 0 PX ©

101

Stretched out in front of Hvar Town, the Pakleni Islands (Pakleni otoci) are a gorgeous chain of wooded isles with crystal-clear waters, hidden beaches and peaceful lagoons. Although the name is often translated as ‘Hell’s Islands’, it’s thought to derive from paklina, a pine resin that was once harvested here to waterproof boats.

Top Sights APakleni Islands

Brač is the largest island in central Dalmatia, with sev-eral towns and villages, and a dramatic landscape of steep cliffs, inky waters and pine forests. The two main centres, Supetar and Bol, are quite different: Supetar is pleasant if unassuming, while Bol revels in its more exclusive appeal.

Start with an early-morning swim at Zlatni Rat (p114) before hitting the road and heading to the Blaca Hermitage (p119) and Vidova Gora lookout (p115). Continue on to Supetar for lunch and a quick look around before circling back to Bol via the Island of Brač Museum (p120) at Škrip and Pučišća. That even-ing, see if you can squeeze in a pre-dinner wine tasting at Stina (p117) or a blast around the Branislav Dešković Art Gallery (p117).

Bol & Brač IslandExplore Y

Getting There & AroundN Car ferries head to Supetar from Split, and to Sumar-tin from Makarska. High-speed catamarans head to Bol year-round from Split and seasonally from Makarska, Hvar, Korčula, Mljet and DubrovnikJ Supetar is the hub, with services to Bol (43KN, one hour) and other towns.A Brač airport, 14km northeast of Bol, only has scheduled flights from mid-May to September.

Bol Map on p116

Bol D R E A M E R 4787/S H U T T E R STO C K ©

113

Croatia’s most photographed beach extends like a tongue into the sea for about 400m. Despite the hype and constant crowds, the ‘golden cape’ is a gorgeous place. Made up of white pebbles, its elegant tip is constantly shuffled by the wind and waves. Pine trees provide shade and rocky cliffs rise behind it, giving it one of Dalmatia’s loveliest settings.

Top Sights AZlatni Rat

1 MAP P116, A3

Croatia’s second-largest city, Split (Spalato in Italian, population 178,000) is a great place to see Dalmatian life as it’s really lived. Always buzzing, this exuberant city has just the right balance between history and modernity. Daily life and commerce hums along within the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace as it has done for millennia.

Start by thoroughly exploring Diocletian’s Palace (p124). Take a look around the Split City Museum (p136) and, time allowing, the Gallery of Fine Arts (p136) before heading to the Veli Varoš neighbourhood for lunch at one of its excellent seafood restaurants. Take a stroll up to Marjan Forest Park (p133) for the views. From here you can either press on to Kašjuni beach (p133) for a swim, or wander back down to the city and head to the Archaeological Museum (p138). Finish up with a meal and drink in the old town.

SplitExplore Y

Getting There & AroundA Dozens of airlines fly here from all over Europe.J Intercity and international buses arrive at the main bus station beside the harbour.N Split is a major ferry port, with services to Italy, the Dalmatian islands, Trogir, Makarska and Dubrovnik.L Four trains a day travel between Split and Zagreb (194KN, 6½ hours).

Split Map on p134

Trg Republike, Split D R E A M E R 4787/S H U T T E R STO C K ©

123

Taking up a prime harbourside position, this extraordinary complex is one of the most impos-ing ancient Roman structures in existence today, and where you’ll spend most of your time while in Split. Don’t expect a palace, though, nor a museum – this is the city’s living heart, its labyrin-thine streets packed with people, bars, shops and restaurants.

Top Sights ADiocletian’s Palace

1 MAP P134, G4

Survival GuideBefore You Go 160Book Your Stay ............................................................160

When to Go ...................................................................160

Arriving in Dalmatia 161Dubrovnik Airport ........................................................ 161

Split Airport .................................................................. 161

Brač Airport ..................................................................162

Getting Around 162Air ..................................................................................162

Boat ...............................................................................162

Bus .................................................................................162

Car & Motorcyle ...........................................................163

Essential Information 163Accessible Travel .........................................................163

Business Hours ............................................................163

Discount Cards ............................................................164

Dos & Don’ts .................................................................164

Electricity .....................................................................164

LGBTIQ+ Travellers .....................................................164

Money ............................................................................164

Public Holidays ............................................................165

Tourist Information .....................................................165

Visas ..............................................................................165

Dubrovnik (p33) C H A L F F Y/G E T T Y I M AG E S ©

LanguageCroatian pronunciation is not dif-ficult – in the Croatian writing sys-tem every letter is pronounced and its sound does not vary from word to word. The sounds are pretty close to their English counterparts. Note that in our pronunciation guides zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. The stressed syllable is indicated with italics in our pronunciation guides.

To enhance your trip with a phrasebook, visit lonelyplanet.com. Lonely Planet iPhone phrase-books are available through the Apple App store.

BasicsHello. Bok. bokGoodbye. Zbogom. zbo·gomYes./No Da./Ne. da/nePlease. Molim. mo·leemThank you. Hvala. hva·laExcuse me. Oprostite. o·pro·stee·teSorry. Žao mi je. zha·o mee yeMy name is … Zovem se … zo·vem se …What’s your name? Kako se zovete/ ka·ko se zo·ve·te/ zoveš? zo·vesh (pol/inf)

Do you speak (English)? Govorite/ go·vo·ree·te/ Govoriš go·vo·reesh li (engleski)? lee (en·gle·skee) (pol/inf)I (don’t) understand. Ja (ne) ya (ne) razumijem. ra·zoo·mee·yem

Eating & DrinkingWhat would you recommend? Što biste nam shto bee·ste nam preporučili? pre·po·roo· chee·lee

What’s in that dish? Od čega se od che·ga se sastoji ovo jelo? sa·sto·yee o·vo ye·lo

Please bring the bill/check. Molim vas mo·leem vas donesite račun. do·ne·see·te ra·choon

Vegetarian meal. Vegetarijanski ve·ge·ta·ree·yan· obrok. skee o·brok

menu jelovnik ye·lov·neekbreakfast doručak do·roo·chaklunch ručak roo·chakdinner večera ve·che·ra

beer pivo pee·vo

coffee kava ka·va

water voda vo·da

tea čaj chai

with/ sa/bez sa/bez without

Language166


Index

AAbbey Palace 93accessible travel 163accommodation 160-1air travel 161-2airports 161-2Andrijić, Marko 93Aquarium 37-8Archaeological

Museum (Dubrovnik) 39

Archaeological Museum (Split) 138

Arsenal 106

BBačvice 130-1, 130Bačvice Beach 131Banje Beach 43bars 14-15, see

also Drinking subindex

Baška Voda 83beaches 16-17, 20-1,

see also individual beaches

Dubrovnik 48Hvar Town 107

beer 14, 15

Bellevue Beach 48Benedictine

Monastery (Sveta Marija Island) 87

Benedictine Monastery & Gardens (Lokrum Island) 67

bicycle travel, see cycling

Biokovo Nature Park 80-1

Blaca Hermitage 119boat travel 22,

27, 162Bol 113-21, 116

drinking 121food 119-21sights 117-19transport 113

bookshops 18Brač Island 113-21,

116transport 113

Branislav Dešković Art Gallery 117-18

Brela 82-3Bukovac House 56bus travel 162-3business hours 163-4Buža Gate 35

Ccable car 41car travel 163

Carpe Diem Beach 103

Cathedral of St Domnius 127-9

Cathedral of the Assumption (Dubrovnik) 47

Cavtat 56cell phones 26children, travel with

16-17Church of the

Annunciation (Dubrovnik) 50

Church of the Annunciation (Milna) 120

Church of the Annunciation (Supetar) 118

Church of the Assumption (Jelsa) 106

City Bell Tower 48climate 160coffee 14Copacabana

Beach 69costs 26Croatian language

166-7cruises 22Cultural History

Museum 46currency 26, 164

cyclingMljet National

Park 89tours 23

DDalmatian Coast

71-85, 74transport 71

Danče 48Dingač 76Diocletian’s Palace 7,

124-9, 128disabilities, travellers

with 163diving 89

Mljet National Park 89

tours 23Dominican

Monastery & Museum (Dubrovnik) 49

Dominican Monastery (Bol) 118-19

Dominican Monastery (Stari Grad) 108

Donja Banda 76Donji Humac 120Ɖorđić-Mayneri

Park 62Dragon’s Cave 121

See also separate subindexes for:

5 Eating p1726 Drinking p1733 Entertainment p1737 Shopping p173

Sights 000Map Pages 000

Index169


drinking 14-15, see also beer, wine, Drinking subindex, individual locations

language 166driving 163Dubrovnik 33-65, 42,

44-5beaches 48drinking 54-9food 50-4history 37, 52shopping 59-65sights 34-41, 46-50transport 33walking tours 42-3,

42Dubrovnik city

walls & forts 6, 34-9, 38

Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 41

Dulčić Masle Pulitika Gallery 50

EElafiti Islands 62electricity 164entertainment, see

Entertainment subindex, individual locations

Episcopal Museum 106

etiquette 164

Fferry travel 162Firule 130-1, 130Firule Beach 131Five Martyrs

Basilica 150

food 10-11, 19, see also Eating sub-index, individual locations

language 166Fort Bokar 37Fort Lawrence 38-9Fort Minčeta 36Fort Revelin 39Fort Royal 67Fortica 105forts, see Dubrovnik

city walls & forts individual forts

Franciscan Monastery & Museum (Dubrovnik) 49

Franciscan Monastery (Hvar Town) 106-7

Franciscan Monastery (Lopud) 62

Franciscan Monastery (Makarska) 82

Franciscan Monastery (Orebić) 77

GGallery of Fine

Arts 136Game of Thrones sites

39, 64, 67, 75, 144gay travellers 164Grand Cipiko

Palace 156Grgur Ninski

statue 136

Hhighlights 6-9holidays 165hotels 160-1

Hvar Island 101-11, 104

transport 101Hvar Town 101-11, 104

drinking 111food 107-10sights 105-7transport 101

IIcon Museum 95insurance 163Island of Brač

Museum 120itineraries 24-5

JJanjina 76Jelsa 106Jerolim 103

KKamerlengo Castle

157Karmen 77Kašjuni Beach 133Kaštel Gomilica 144Kaštel Lukšić 144Kaštel Lukšić

Museum 144Kaštel Sućurac 144Kaštela 144Kaštilac 144kayak tours 23, 54Klis Fortress 9, 152-3Koločep 62Komiža 142Konavle 60Korčula Island 91-9,

94history 96transport 91

Korčula Town 91-9, 94drinking 98

entertainment 99food 96-8shopping 99sights 92-3, 95-6transport 91

Korčula Town Museum 95

Kotišina Botanical Garden 80-1

Llace 19language 26, 166-7Lapad Bay 69Lapad Peninsula

68-9, 68Large Onofrio

Fountain 49-50lavender 18Lazareti 43LGBTIQ+

travellers 164Little Onofrio

Fountain 50Lokrum Island 8, 66-7Lopud 62Love Stories

Museum 50

MMakarska 81-2Makarska Municipal

Museum 82Mali Most 87Mali Ston 73Malo Jezero 87Manastirine 149Marinkovac 103Maritime Museum

(Dubrovnik) 38Maritime Museum

(Orebić) 77Marjan Forest

Park 133Marjan Hill 132-3,

132


Index170

markets 19Marmont’s

Gloriette 157Meštrović, Ivan

93, 133Meštrović

Gallery 133Meštrović

Kaštilac 133Milna 120Mirabela Fortress 84Mljet National Park

7, 86-9mobile phones 26money 26, 164-5motorcycle travel 163Museum of Modern

Art 43Museums of

Dubrovnik pass 46

NNarona

Archaeological Museum 80

Neum Corridor 78nightlife 14-15, see

also Drinking sub-index, individual locations

nude beaches 21

OOmiš 83-5opening hours 163-4Orebić 77-9Orlando Column 48Our-Lady-of-Carmel

Church (Bol) 118Our-Lady-of-Carmel

Church (Dubrovnik) 77

Our-Lady-of-Health Church 136-7

Our-Lady-of- Mercy Church-Fortress 110

Our-Lady-of- the-Snow Monastery 56

Ovčice Beach 131

PPakleni Islands 8,

102-3Palača Dešković 120Pasjača 60Pelješac Peninsula 76Pelješac Wine Trail 76Pile Gate 35planning 160-1Ploče Gate 35Podstrana 85Polače 88-9Polo, Marco 97Porporela 48Porta Caesarea 150Postup 76Potomje 76Prapatno 73public holidays 165Pučišća 120Pulitika Studio 38Punta Rata 82Pupnat 98

RRačić Family

Mausoleum 56Radmanove

Mlinice 84rafting 84Ragusa 52rakija 14Rector’s Palace 46Roman Palace 88-9

SSacred Art

Museum 156safety 167

Salona 9, 148-51, 150

Saplunara 89sea urchins 17shopping 18-19, see

also Shopping sub-index, individual locations

language 167Šipan 62Šipanska Luka 62Škrip 120Solana Ston 73Solin 148-51Split 123-47, 134-5

drinking 140-3entertainment 145food 138-40history 127, 129shopping 145-7sights 124-9, 136-7transport 123, 146

Split City Museum 136

Split Ethnographic Museum 137-8

Split synagogue 127Sponza Palace 48-9Srđ 9, 40-1St Blaise’s

Church 48St Ignatius of Loyola

Church 47St Lawrence’s

Cathedral (Trogir) 155

St Lawrence’s Church (Vrboska) 110

St Luke’s Tower 36St Mark’s Cathedral

8, 92-3St Mary’s Island 87-8St Michael’s

Church 84

St Nicholas’ Church (Dubrovnik) 56

St Nicholas’ Convent (Trogir) 157

St Sebastian’s Church 156

St Stephen’s Cathedral (Hvar Town) 105-6

St Stephen’s Church (Stari Grad) 108

Stari Grad 108Stina 117Stobreč 85Ston Walls 8, 72-3Suđurađ 62Šulić Bay 48Sumartin 120Šunj 62Supetar 118Sveta Marija Island

87-8Sveti Jakov

Beach 43Sveti Klement 103Synagogue & Jewish

Museum (Dubrovnik) 49

Ttaxis 27, 161, 162telephone services 26Temple of Jupiter

129time 26top sights 6-9tourist information

165tours 23, see also

walking tourstransport 27, 161-3

language 167Trg Sv Stjepana 105Trogir 7, 154-7

history 157

Index171

Trogir Museum 155Trogir Town Hall 156Trstenica 77Trstenik 76Trsteno 75-6Trsteno

Arboretum 75Tusculum 149Tvrdalj 108

UUpper Corner

Tower 39

VVeli Varoš 133Velika & Mala Petka

Forest Park 69Veliki Revelin

Tower 96Veliko Jezero 87Vid 79-80Vidova Gora 115Viganj 79Vis Island 142visas 26, 165Vrboska 110

Wwalking tours 23

Bačvice & Firule 130-1, 130

Lapad 68-9, 68Marjan Hill 132-3,

132Ploče & Viktorija

42-3, 42War Photo

Limited 46Way of the Cross 41

weather 160windsurfing 115wine 12-13, 76

ZZlatni Rat 9, 114-15Žrnovo 98

5Eating

AAterina 98

BBastion 84Beer Garden 118Bota Šare Oyster &

Sushi Bar 53Brasserie on 7 140Bugenvila 56

CChops.Grill 140Croccantino cafe 78Cukarin 96

DDalmatino 109Del Posto 83DiVino 110-11Dolce Vita 50Đuđa i Mate 80Dvor 131

EEremitaž Restaurant

108

FFast Food Republic

50-1Fig 107-8

GGrande Luna 110Gušt 138

KKapetanova Kuća 73Kaša Grill & Bar 85Konoba Andiamo 78Konoba Belin 98Konoba Dubrava 41Konoba Fetivi 139Konoba Galija 87Konoba Girasole 149Konoba Kalalarga 82Konoba Kopačina 120Konoba Koraćeva

Kuća 60Konoba Mali Raj 115Konoba Marjan 139Konoba Maslina 98Konoba Mate 98Konoba Matejuška

139Konoba Menego 109Konoba Ribar 53Konoba Trs 155Korta Katarina 77-8Kruščić 138

LLa Casa 78-9La Fabbrica 84Lacroma

Restaurant 67LD Terrace 97Lola 108Luka 138

MMakrovega 138Marco’s 97Mizarola 109

NNautika 53-4Nishta 51-3Nonica 107

OOliva Pizzeria 53

PPalmižana

Meneghello 103Panorama

Restaurant 41Pantarul 69Peppino’s 51Pink Shrimp 51Pizzeria Tabasco 43Pojoda 142Portofino 140Proto 54

RRanč 119Restaurant 360° 53Restaurant

Dubrovnik 54Restoran Perlica 153

SShizuku 69Stagnum 73

TTaverna Riva 119-21

VVilla Spiza 139Vinotoka 118

ZZinfandel 140Zoi 139


Index172

Zora Bila 131Zori 103

6Drinking3 Pršuta 111

AAcademia Ghetto

Club 143Art Cafe 58Auro 115

BBard Mala Buža 54Beer Garden 118Buža 55Buzz Bar 57

CCarpe Diem 111Cave Bar More 69Central Park Club 111Cogito 58Coral Beach Club 69

DD16 141Deep 82Dubrovnik Beer

Factory 55D’vino 54

FFabrique 141-3Fluid 143

GGaffe 58Galerija 143Glam Beer

Therapy 59Grabovac wine bar 82

Gradska kavana Arsenal 58-9

Grgić Vina 76

HHula-Hula Hvar 111

KKiva Bar 111Korta Katarina 77-8

LLix 84Luxor 143

MMalvasija 57Marcvs Marvlvs

Spalatensis 140Marinero 121Massimo 99Matuško 58, 76

NNautica 111

PParadox 141Peninsula 76

RRevelin 57-8Rock Caffe Exit 57

SSt Riva 143

TTaverna

Domanoeta 76Tavulin 55Teak 143-5Troubadour 59Turjun 84

VVaradero 121Vidilica 133Vina Carić 110Vinum Bonum 98

ZŽbirac 131Zenta 131

3Entertainment

Croatian National Theatre Split 145

Kino Karaman 145Kinoteka Zlatna Vrata

145Moreška Cultural

Club 99Split City Puppet

Theatre 17, 145

7Shopping

AAlgebra 63Arterija 145

BBag & Co 145-6Bonbonnière Kraš 63

CCroatia Records 147Croatian Fashion

Design 64

DDiocletian’s

Cellars 146Dubrovnik

Treasures 64

FFish Market 146

GGrad Market 63Green Market 147

KKawa 43Kutak Knjiga 99

LLittle Brothers

Pharmacy 61

MMedusa 61

OOld Market 147

RRomana Atelier 64

SSebastian Art 65Stjepko Art 65Studio Naranča 146

TTalir 65Terra Croatica

Dubrovnik 59-60Think Pink 146

UUje 61, 146

VVina Miličić 65

Index173

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541531st edition – Apr 2019ISBN 978 1 78868 019 6© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in MalaysiaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other coun-tries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Peter DragicevichAfter a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wander-lust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

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