Dry Process Techniques --Rehnuma Chowdhury

The process which is applied in the dry condition of garments is called

dry process.

Actually this process is done at unwashed condition.Dry process is the ornaments of denim garments. Without dry process denim garments doesn’t look nice. Now a days some dry process are applied on twill garments also.

TYPES OF DRY PROCESS

Hand Sand.

Sand Blast.

Whisker.

Laser Whisker.

Destroy.

PP Spray

Tagging.

Grinding.

Crinkle.

3-D Crinkle.

PP Rubbing.

Resin spray.

Heat Pressing.

Pocket Marking.

Seam Marking.

Center Crease.

Crease Mark Over all.

Bleach Spot/PP Spot.

Sand Blasting: This is the process that also applied for removing the color

and it is done at the dry condition of the garments. This process is done by air flow gun with the help of sand. The high pressure sand is applied on the specific area of

the garments and eventually the color will reduce. However, this process has some disadvantages ,so that

this process is banned now.

Hand Sand: Hand Sand process is done at dry condition to remove the color from specific area of the garment. Maximum garments is tested by this process because sand blasting is now banned. This process is done manually with abrasive paper on specific area. At first we have to mark the garments then put on dummy and scrap it. After this process, quality is checked and then it is sent for first wash. This process will be nicely visible after complete wash.

Difference Between Sand Blast And Hand Sand Process

Sand Blasting• This process is done by gun with the

help of air flow.• Total indigo is out, so slap is down.• Metal can be found sometimes.• Effect is on top of surface.• Less yarn character.• Process is faster.• Environmental hazardous.• Health hazardous.• Production high.• Evenness on surface.• Easy to control.

Hand Sand• This process is done by manually with

the help of abrasive paper. • Inside indigo stay, so that slap is

increase.• No possibilities to found metal.• Effect is in depth of surface.• More yarn character.• Process is lengthy.• Environmental hazardous.• Also health hazardous.• Production low.• Sometimes unevenness.• Difficult to control.

Manual Whisker: This whisker is done manually with the help of pattern. On denim garments we

have done it by abrasive paper. This whisker absorb the color homogenously.

Laser Whisker: This whisker is done by laser machine. At First, design is made in the Photoshop or illustrator, then it is inserted into

the laser machine and The intensity is fixed and imposed on the garments according to marking and

the indigo is burned. After wash the burned indigo is removed and whisker is visible. This whisker

production is more but the tint absorb is very uneven.

Whisker: Whisker is most important dry process for denim garments. Whisker is done making a pattern and put in the garments then remove color from pattern area. After wash we can see the pattern mark. It is one kind of design on garments.

Whisker are two types depending on process.

PP Spray: Means potassium permanganate spray on the garments at specific

area. This chemical is sprayed to reduce the color from garments. First, the garments is put into dummy then the forced air

circulation is applied. Then we spray pp with the help of pp gun aided by air pressure. This spray is done on the scrapping area and after neutralization a

white look appears on the spray area.

Destroy : Destroy is a process which is done by pen grinding

machine. At first, the garments is marked then slightly

attached with this machine.

During the process the cellulose is removed.

After wash we can get a good destroy look of

garments. This process can also be done by another

method.

Grinding: Grinding is the process by which we will get the used effect of

garments. This process is completely done at edges area. If the garments has two time wash that time we will wash it after

first wash to avoid the damages of garments.

Tagging:Tagging is the process which is done at unwashed condition of garments. The effect is visible after wash. It is usually done at the edge area by folding the garments. This process can be done by the tag gun, plastic staple machine or manually. Sometimes this process damages the garments by creating hole.

Crinkle: Crinkle is the process by this we squeeze the garments at front and back knee area.This process is done by crinkle machine or by manual clipping of specific area.First time we have to spray the resin on the marked area Then the garments is clipped and put into curing oven at 150c for a certain time.Another process is after resin spray ,squeezed by machine.

3-D Crinkle: This is the 3D effect of crinkle. This effect is found by the special treatments of garments. First we have to spray resin on the 3D area then making 3D with help of pattern then it put into oven for curing After curing ,the garments is washed to get white effect on top.

Resin Spray: Resin spray is used for making coating on the

garments. When it is required that the garments should be very

smooth and hard – In that case, the resin spray procedure is used.

This process is done by spraying resin on the full of garments then put into oven for curing the garments.

After curing we will get a coating garments.

PP Rubbing: Sometimes, according to development requirements pp rubbing process is used to get the effect. By this process we get more high-low effect. There is a difference between spray and rubbing. For spray we will not get more high—low on the area but for rubbing, we will get it. But this process is difficult to handle.

Seam Marking: Side seam hand sand is done to get the seam marking at

side seam point. This effect is visible after washing is done A marking appears at side seam which looks nice.

Heat Pressing: Heat pressing is used to get permanents pleats of garments. First resin is sprayed on specific area of garments then it is pressed along with heat. Finally, we will get it permanent pleated.

Pocket Marking: Pocket mark is done by scrapping to the inside lining visible. This process we can follow when you wear the garments. It means that you used this garments so many time and for that reasons we can see pocket lining mark but this is happened by hand sand. ?

Crimping: Fabric is crimped then ironed to create

permanent crease mark.

Center Crease: Center crease is the dry process which show the crease marked at middle side of front and back.This process is done by putting a pattern inside the garments then making crease by abrasive paper.After wash, this special mark is visible

Pigment Spray:Pigment spray is the process by which we will get uneven color look at garments surface. First, the wash process is completed Then, the pigment is sprayed on the garments surface. The pigment solution is prepared using pigment dye ,binder and liquid. After spraying, the garments will be sent to oven for curing.After that process, this color will be fixed and a good look appears

Resin spot: Resin spot is the process by which we will get the spot or

design. First, the resin solution is prepared using resin and binder

mixing with water at required level. Then the solution is applied according to the design or spot. After making spot the garment is sent to oven for curing After curing, the washing process is started. This process is

done at unwashed condition because the design is made by raw denim color. For resin effect, the color will not cut.

Towel Bleach: It is one kind of bleaching process that give us the uneven look on the garments. In this process, some small piece of towel is taken and dipped in bleaching solution. Then, these pieces are slightly dried. After that we put into machine and give the original garments which need to be uneven wash then complete the process.

PP Spot/Bleach Spot:This process is done by making pp solution or bleach solution then make some spot on the garments according to requirement. After neutralization of this garments we will get the nice spot. But there is a difference between pp spot and bleach spot. By pp spot we get white look spot and for bleach we get slight yellowish spot.

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Application of Resin

Resin is liquid form of polymer.

It is the chemical by which we make the crinkle and 3D crinkle in washing plant.

This chemical is also used to make the fabric hard, weight giving agent and for

create coating on the fabric.

This chemicals is mostly used to make the permanent palette by 3d crinkle or

crinkle..

*** The resin which we use that must be formaldehyde free.

Based on the use resin is two types:

Pre catalyst Resin: The resin which we can apply directly on the fabric or garments. In this procedure, resin catalyst is mixed earlier. After Appling, it works on fabric cellulose and makes bond by curing reaction. This reaction is happened at 150c in the oven.

Post catalyst Resin: The resin which we can not apply directly is called post catalyst resin. Before applying we have to mix binder and catalyst. Then we apply this resin on the garments or fabrics. Some times we used the resin to making coat and increase the weight of the fabric, This application is done at washing machine.

Resin is used as various agent in textile section. It is used for crinkle,3d crinkle, resin spot on the garments, making surface coating on garments ,increase the hardness of fabric. Resin reacts with fiber and makes bond with cellulose at high temperature. Then permanent pleat is formed.

Application of Resin

Resin is directly used on the garments then it is cured.

Resin application is very critical because of its nature.

Resin should be applied at optimum level. Because, exceeding the limit might

cause permanent damage to the fabric.

Resin should be applied according to fabric strength and construction.

Most importantly, Resin should be formaldehyde free.

Application of Resin

Resin-TroubleshootingApplication of resin, results to reduce the fabric strength by

40%. Therefore fabric or style selected for resin finishes should

have a 40% higher tensile and tear strength for good outcome.

If the resin application is more on specific area that garments

will tear.

If we use more than one time, it might tear

If oven time is more, it might tear

If oven temperature is excessively high.

If we use more regin, garments will become more hard.

Due to resin, unwanted spot may appear in the garments.

For resin some times pocket might damage.