drive southern africa. isbn 9781770260085

8/6/2019 Drive Southern Africa. ISBN 9781770260085

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60 TOP SITES

96 CITY & TOWN MAPSCOMPREHENSIVE ROAD ATLAS

DETAILED RESOURCE SECTION

SOUTHERNAFRICA

DRIVING ROUTES AROUND SOUTHERN AFRICA

DRIVE


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PI

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TO

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D

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DSI

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36 & 37

PICTURE ROUTE

POLOKWANE TO CHIMANIMANI

SITE EASTERN HIGHLANDS......................................................

38 & 39

SITE NORTHEASTERN FREE STATE

SITE GREAT ZIMBABWE

......................................................

40 & 41

MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTION

CAPE TOWN TO VICTORIA FALLS

......................................................

42 & 43

PICTURE ROUTE

OVERBERG TO MAPUTO

......................................................

44 & 45

PICTURE ROUTE

SOUTH COAST TO MAPUTO

SITE WILD COAST

......................................................

46 & 47

TOP SITE GARDEN ROUTE

......................................................

48 & 49

TOP SITE ZULULAND, MAPUTALAND

& INHACA

......................................................

50 & 51

PICTURE ROUTE

MAPUTO TO VICTORIA FALLS

SITE MANA POOLS

......................................................

52 & 53

TOP SITE VICTORIA FALLS

......................................................

54 & 55

MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTIONCAPE TOWN TO SWAKOPMUND

......................................................

56 & 57

PICTURE ROUTE

WORCESTER TO GABORONE

......................................................

4 & 5

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

......................................................

6 & 7

MAP OVERVIEW OF SITES

......................................................

8 to 11

BEST OF SOUTHERN AFRICA

ROUTES12 & 13


CAPE TOWN TO GHANZI TOWN

......................................................

14 & 15

PICTURE ROUTE

CAPE TOWN TO THE CEDERBERG

......................................................

16 & 17

PICTURE ROUTE

WEST COAST TO WATERBERG

PLATEAU PARK

......................................................

18 & 19

TOP SITE CAPE PENINSULA

......................................................

20 & 21

TOP SITE WEST COAST

FLOWER ROUTE......................................................

22 & 23

PICTURE ROUTE

ETOSHA TO GHANZI TOWN

......................................................

24 & 25

TOP SITE OKAVANGO DELTA

......................................................

26 & 27MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTION

AI-AIS TO MUTARE

......................................................

28 & 29

PICTURE ROUTE

ORANGE RIVER TO AUGRABIES FALLS

CONTENTS


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G

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Ka

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Se

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Kw

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92 & 93


HARARE TO GORONGOSA

......................................................94 & 95

PICTURE ROUTE

HARARE TO NIASSA RESERVE

SITE NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE

......................................................

96 & 97

PICTURE ROUTE

MAPUTO TO BEIRA

SITE GORONGOSA NATIONAL PARK

......................................................

98 & 99

TOP SITE MOZAMBIQUE

COASTLINE

STREETPLANS100 & 101

ORIENTATION MAP Southern Africa

showing cities and towns covered

Pretoria South Africa

......................................................

102 & 103

Cape Town South Africa

Windhoek Namibia

......................................................

104 & 105

Gaborone BotswanaMaputo Mozambique

......................................................

106 & 107

Maseru Lesotho

Mbabane Swaziland

Harare Zimbabwe

......................................................

108 & 109

Johannesburg South AfricaPort Elizabeth South Africa

East London South Africa

......................................................

110

Durban South Africa

Pietermaritzburg South Africa

Beira Mozambique

Inhambane Mozambique

......................................................

114

Beaufort West South Africa

Bethlehem South Africa

Citrusdal South Africa

Clanwilliam South Africa

......................................................

115

Colesberg South Africa

George South Africa

Estcourt South Africa

Graaff-Reinet South Africa

......................................................

116

Grahamstown South Africa

Knysna South Africa

Kroonstad South Africa

Ladysmith South Africa

......................................................

117

Lamberts Bay South Africa

Mashishing South Africa

Mossel Bay South Africa

Musina South Africa

......................................................

118

Newcastle South Africa

Oudtshoorn South AfricaPilgrims Rest South Africa

Port Shepstone South Africa

......................................................

119

Richards Bay South Africa

Rustenburg South Africa

Sishen South Africa

Springbok South Africa

......................................................120

Stellenbosch South Africa

St Lucia South Africa

Strand South Africa

Swellendam South Africa

......................................................


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Grootfontein

If you havent al

Hoba meteorite

worth a detour o

Tsumeb. Turn of

which has a trai

Daan Viljoe

If, after having

in true wildern

the civilisation

wheel towards

also p17) for y

Augeigas dam

and revel in ththorn trees wh

sinking sun.

Kaokoland and KuneneIn the Herero language, kaoko is

left-hand side (of the river) while

kunene is right-hand side, hence

Kaokoland describes the land to

the south of the river and Kunene

implies any land to the north (that

is Angola)

SWAKOPMUND TOVICTORIA FALLS (ZAM

Swakopmund 756km 893km

National West Coast

Recreation Area

If youre not in a hurry and youre

prepared to stop and smell the roses

(in this case, actually, its the not-so-

sweet-smelling seals), stop off at the

Cape Cross Seal Reserve on the

coast directly north of Swakopmund.The eared Cape fur seals are in fact

not a true seal species; they belong

to the sea lion family.

Cunene/Kunene

Win


5/16OkavangoDelta

Cunene

Zam

bez

iCaprivi

GP

KhaudomGR Chobe

NPTsodilo

Hills

ManPoo

Etosha NP

Ruacana Falls

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

ANGOLA

MaunGrootfontein Bulawayo

Livingstone

Masvin

Rundu

Katima

Mulilo

Victoria FallsRuacana

Tsumeb

Sesfontein

H

Lusaka

Rundu

Between Rundu and the Caprivi Strip,

travellers will notice roadside stalls

selling local Kavango handicrafts and

carvings. The Kavango ingenuity is

expressed in the form of stools,

walking sticks, masks and wild ani-

mals, all fashioned out of wild teak.

Livingstone Island

Having been taken to the island now

named after him, David Livingstone

wrote in his diary: [They] brought me

to an island in the middle of the

river, on the edge of the lip over

which the water rolls. Creeping with

awe to the verge, I peered down intoa large rent which had been made

from bank to bank.

The local Leya people of Zambia make offerings each February to the ancestral sp

dwell in the Zambezis Batoka gorge. The Zimbabwean Tonga people are protecte

rivergod, Nyaminyami.

516km 193km 10km

Victoria Falls

Livingstone

Katima Mulilo

Rundu

Via Zambia


6/16

BRANDBERG NATURE

RESERVE

From the B2 heading out of Swakopmund,

the route peels off north towards

Damaraland major 4x4 territory. Youre

now in flat scrub country, so when the tallimposing Brandberg massif makes itself

apparent on the horizon, it comes as a

surprise to the senses. Why its called

brandberg (burning mountain) is not at

first evident, as its sometimes streaked

grey-white, sometimes has reddish-hued

potential (with a little imagination), and is

sometimes pockmarked with tenacious

trees. Its likely that at times the rock

takes on a glow as it stands reflected inthe dying sun. Famous for its White Lady

painting, Brandberg divulges a great many

more to tenacious hikers. Best experi-enced on a multiple-day excursion, a local

guide can help you track down the more

elusive sites. Numas ravine cuts into the

western face and will reveal rock art

depicting a snake, giraffe and an antelope,

with more paintings further along, near a

spring On the eastern face the shelters

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THE WHITE LADY

You need to want to see this ancient paint-

ing, especially when its a searing 40C

(104F), as it demands an energy expend-

ing walk together with a guide, which could

take up to an hour if agility is not at the

high end of your fitness scale. Its pro-tected by a railing but stands about 40cm

(16in) tall. Speculation puts it at 16,000

years old! At first believed to be a lady

because of the figures long, straight, light-

tinted hair this fact also confused early

experts who professed her to follow the

Cretan or Egyptian ar twork style its now

possible that its a male decorated with

painted clay in a shamanic situation.

Tel: 00264 61 255 977/85 7000Email: [email protected]

Website: www.nwr.com.na

DAMARALANDBecause of its remoteness, this vast

wilderness extending east of the Skeleton

Coast Park and northward to Kaokoland

can only be explored properly in a 4x4.

None of the roads are tarred, sizable

towns do not exist and western civilisation

is present only in the form of lodges and

Swakopmund to Sesfonte


7/16

SOUTH OF ETOSHA

As you nose your dust trail ever north

across Damaraland, its your overnight

stops that break the monotony of the flat

scrub landscape. The following, off theC35, are worth a look-see. Huab Lodges

luxurious thatched bungalows sit on the

banks of the Huab River (most times, dry),

amid the granite kopjes of a private game

reserve. Here, hot springs could lure you in

place of the pool or you could be persua-

ded to stay awhile for a game drive, guided

hike or horse outride to rock paintings.

Further north, Kavita Lion Lodge, bordering

the southwest corner of Etosha, has bun-galows and a pool, but its appeal lies

more in the guided walks and excursions

into Etosha as well as Kaokoland. You will

also come face to face with the rogue or

injured lions that are nurtured here.

Further west, near Etoshas border,

Hobatere Lodges thatched bungalows,

pool and waterhole are on the Otjovasandu

River. The desert landscape of escarpment

and valley has inspired some writers to

PETRIFIED FOREST

Closest of the sites in the vicinity of

Khorixas is the Petrified Forest to the west

not exactly a forest, rather a hillside

of scattered broken fossilised logs, the

longest measuring 30m (98ft) with a

circumference of 6m (20ft). A local guidetakes you on a 500m (550yd) amble,

explaining how the logs were thought to

have been carried here by floodwaters

from melting ice some 260 million years

ago. The logs, soaked through with water

rich in silica (a form of quartz) over time

were preserved in perfect form take

a close look at the bark and concentric

rings in cross-section.

Tel: 00264 61 250 558Email: [email protected]

Website: www.nacobta.com.na

VINGERKLIP

Not to be confused with the Finger of God

south of Mariental that toppled off its

perch in 1988! This giant chalky Vinger-

klip, the limestone remnant of erosive

action in the Ugab River floodplain over

many millions of years, stands 75km

(47 miles) east of Khorixas Its spotted

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8/16

THE DORSLAND TREKKERS

Northeast of Sesfontein, between

Ombombo and Otjondeka, is the first of

the monuments to the tough, weather-

beaten Dorsland trekkers. They were an

intensely religious group living in the

Transvaal who packed their wagons and

headed into the sunset after Reverend

Thomas Burgers, whose teachings theywerent quite in synch with, was elected

the new president in 1872. Dubbed the

doppers (meaning dampers after their

propensity for blocking all efforts at pro-

gressive reform), their idealistic zeal had

them trekking across the Kalahari dorsland

(thirstland) to find their land of Beulah

the Old Testaments Land of Israel, ear-

marked for Gods chosen people.


Website: www.namibiatourism.com.na

RUACANA FALLS

Before the Calueque dam was constructed

20km (12 miles) upstream of the Cunene

River, the Ruacana falls used to put on a

far more dramatic display. Today, the pump-

ing volumes of water are diverted through

the underground turbines of the hydro-

electric power station. The little town of

Ruacana, 15km (9 miles) from the falls,itself grew from a camp established for the

workers. After decent summer rains, water

still tumbles and pummels spectacularly

over the rocks March to April are usually

good months to see this. The Cunenes

waters first separate into rocky channels

before hightailing it over the tall escarp-

ment and coursing through a 2km-long

(1-mile) gorge.


Website: www.namibian.org

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RAFTING ON THE KUNENE

Half- to five-day whitewater rafting trips are

the highlight of activities run by the

Kunene River Lodge. Starting upstream of

Swartbooisdrift at the Ondarusu rapids,

trained guides manoeuvre rafts over froth-

ing turbulence that can culminate in test-

ing grade IV waters eventually finishing

DORSLAND MONUMENTS

Heading northwest after the monument

near Otjondeka to Kaoko Otavi, youll come

across the ruins of a church (a heap of

rubble, despite its status as a National

Monument, proclaimed in 1951!) in the

Joubert mountains. Thereafter, via the

D3705 D3700 and D3701 Swartboois

Kaokoland to Khomas Ho

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Fort SesfonteinLodge

Kunene

River Lodge

Rocky Point

RuacanaFalls

EpupaFalls

Hoar

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Etosha National Park

Skeleton

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Home ofDorsland Trekkers

Dorsland TrekChurch Ruin

ANGOLA

NAMIBIA

Okauwe

Etanga Okahao

Purros

Otjiveze

Okalongo

Oshikuku

Ombombo

Kowares

Ruacana

Otjondeka

Ombarundu

Ombalantu

Etilyasa

Otjinhungwa

KaokoOtavi

Ombombo

Cambno

Swartbooisdrift

Opuwo

NaulilaChitado

Calueque

Sesfontein

Ombala-io-Mungo

Ondangwa

Ondjiva

Oshakati

C35

C35

C46

C41

C43D3707

D3709

D3707

M123

D3605

D3703

D3701D3608

D3635

D3705

D3704

D3710

C43

C43

C41

B1

100KM

MI 50

N

XANGONGO

TSUMEB

OTJIWARONGOSWAKOPMUND

Kaokoland

CROSSING THE DESERT

Also referred to as the Kaokoveld, this

primeval part of Africa demands that any

traveller crossing its expanse be 100%

self-sufficient food, water, medical sup-

plies, fuel and vehicle spare parts as

there are no towns, very few lodges, and a

lack of fresh water Roads are gravel

THE HIMBA

The only signs of habitation are the scat-

tered beehive huts belonging to semi-

nomadic pastoralists, the Himba, descend-

ed from the earliest Herero tribes. A very

beautiful people, the Himba can be seen

following their hardy cattle and goats in

search of grazing distinctive in the fat and


10/16

ETOSHAS GEOLOGY

The shimmering white salt pan that

stretches as far as the eye can see has

earned Etosha its name: great white

place. Of the parks vast 20,000km2

(7800 sq miles), the flat saline desert

takes up 5000km2 (1950 sq miles), luring

wild animals of all shapes and sizes to

benefit from its mineral content. Twelve

million years ago, this existed as an

immense shallow depression watered by

the Kunene River, but climatic changes

and tectonic upheaval caused water levels

to subside. For only a few days a year,

rains fill the dips and channels, with yel-low-billed pelicans and pink flamingos

massing on the waters.

ETOSHA PAN

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Independent travellers can only explore

Etoshas eastern two-thirds; the remaining

third in the western extreme is the sole

domain of tour operators. Visitors have a

selection of three restcamps all with shop,

restaurant, fuel and braai sites, and each

differing nicely in character Prebooking

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11/16

NOAHS ANIMALS

Etoshas enduring appeal is perhaps the

staggering variety and numbers of its

wildlife. A bit like Noahs Ark which had all

the animals, two by two, youre likely to

see all of the Big Five (except for buffalo),

most of the antelope species (including

the rarer sable and roan) blue wildebeest

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Amazing strides in technology

have enabled permanently

placed 24-hour webcams at eachof Etoshas camp waterholes.

These record the minute-by-

minute rank and file of wild ani-

mals coming to freshen up.

People anywhere in the world

can log on to experience the

vibe of Africa.

Visitors wont fail to miss the

ubiquitous and quite gorgeous

AnderssonGate

Okaukuejo

OngavaLodge

Halali

GamkarabGuest Farm

ToshariInn

Graves ofDorsland

Trekkers

HaasEiland

EtoshaLookout

Etosha Pan

Lyapeke

Okasnanakana

Wolfnes

Okondeka

Ombika

Olifantsbad

AusGemsbokvlakte

Kapupuhedi

GonobHomob

Helio

Gaseb

Okaukuejo

Ojamba

C38C

D3605

D2761D2780

D2782D2780

D2779

B1

OTJIWARONGO

ONDANGWA


12/16

KHAUDOM GAME RESERVE

Even by Namibian standards, this is true

wilderness, reinforced by the remoteness

of these extreme eastern reaches. Little

visited and offering no facilities whatso-

ever, travellers venture into Khaudom to

test their wildlife-tracking skills, as animals

are skittish and unused to car engines.

Edging onto Botswanas Kalahari, the

parks patches of solitary baobabs and dry

woodland survive on sandy soils that

become impassable during the rains in

late November to March. Fossil riverbeds,

known as omuramba, are lined with

reedbeds which rejuvenate in the wet sea-

son, luring animals crossing their tradition-

al eastwest migratory path.



MAHANGO GAME RESERVE

This reserve (no facilities) sticks out like a

thumb off the western end of the Caprivi

Strip and in fact is part of the newly crea-

ted Bwabwata National Park. Its eastern

extent butts onto the Okavango River with,

as a result, a luxuriant profusion of riverine

woodland hiding colourful twittering life of

the bird kind. Birding fanatics will be over-

whelmed by how many different species

they can train their lenses on in the space

of a couple of hours quiet time at the

river look out for the Meyers and Cape

parrots daubed with wild red, green, blue

and yellow. Great herds of migrant ele-

phant pass through, too.

Tel: 00264 61 285 7000/200Email: [email protected]


CAPRIVI & COMMUNITY

With the formation of Bwabwata, the

remaining sectors of the previous Caprivi

Game Park have been handed over to rural

communities, who engage in subsistence

farming in the wetlands and along the river

systems. South of Kongola, the Lizauli

Traditional Village sets out to inform and

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To spot the wildlife (antelope

species including gemsbok and

Khaudom to Victoria Falls


13/16

KATIMA MULILO

Sealing off the eastern end of the Caprivi

Strip is regional capital Katima Mulilo, a

not-so pretty town redeemed by its

extremely pretty wooded surrounds on the

Zambezi. The vivid hues of tropical birds

and chattering monkeys in the shady trees

flanking the river will distract you entirely

from the humdrum town. Of course, the

fishing is good; doing battle with a razor-

toothed tiger fish or the less feisty bream

is another worthy distraction. Otherwise,

tune-up, refuel and replenish supplies,

then quench your thirst at the floating pon-

toon bar moored at the Zambezi Hotel (do

note, though: limited opening hours).


Website: www.namibiatourism.com.na

LIVINGSTONE

Zambias old, colonial-style capital (see

also p51) is slowly, sleepily reviving itself,

but the action very definitely focuses on

adventure activities making best use of

the Zambezi Rivers mutable waters. Do

stay away in hot and horrid October (38C;

100F), made worse by its 90% humidity;

and know that the winter months of June

to September are dry and dusty. What

Livingstone does well is its plethora of

secluded, atmospheric lodges along the

river. If youre more into white-gloved

hospitality, the multimillion-dollar Royal

Livingstone, with its green lawns and river-

side sundowner deck, harks back to old

colonial gentility.


Website: www.zambiatourism.com

MOSI-OA-TUNYA

NATIONAL PARK

This tiny reserve, Zambias smallest, is

made up of the Victoria Falls section and

the game park. In the wildlife sector, visi-

tors can take their own vehicle in, join a

game drive (arranged in Livingstone) or

sign up for a guided walking tour at the

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In an upliftment initiative, local

craftspeople at the Caprivi Art


14/16

TAKE A FLIP

If youd prefer to match the fish eagles

view of the Great Zambezi, fold yourself

into a little plane to better understand the

rivers geological progression (if the river is

low) where it has sliced seven zigzags

across the 1.7km (1-mile) basalt lip over

which the falls thunder. The tumultuous

flow is eroding an eighth line at Devils

Cataract, on the extreme western end.

You also get great views of the lazy river-

flow above the falls as the Zambezi

meanders around green islands before it

disappears into mist-enshrouded depths,

then reemerges at the foot of the sharplycut gorges which snake sharply off into

the distance.

THE WHITEWATER RAPIDS

High-water runs usually tamer because

of fewer obstacles take place around

beginning July to mid-August. Low-water

runs wilder because of exposed rocks

happen from roughly mid-August to late

December. Rafts bounce and slide for a

winding 22km (14 miles) from rapid 4 to

18 (sometimes to 23 request thisupfront) on the Zimbabwean side, and from

rapid 1 to 18 (or 23) on the Zambian side.

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ZAMBEZI RIVER (ZAMBIA)

Musa

Gate

South

Entrance Gate

Njok

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Lumb

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Kwena

Mulob

eziMa

chile

Ngonye Falls

KafueNational

Park

LochinvarNP

Naminwe Plain

NanzhilaPlains

Chunga

Kataba

N i dPemba

Chilala

Namwala

Chitongo

Bwina

Kalala

Itezhi Tezhi

M11

D361

B309

LUPUKA

CHISEKESI

100KM

MI 50

N

In Zimbabwe, rafts put in at

Big Eddy. In Zambia, the put-in

is at Boiling Pot this is the

closest you get to the Victoria

Falls in a raft. Rapid 9 is called

Commercial Suicide by the opera-

tors they all portage around it!


15/16

CAPRIVI STRIP

Z

L

Luiana

NgonyeFalls

SiomaNgwezi

LuianaPartial

ReserveMulonga Plain

Unhe

SioLupuka

Sitoti

Mulele

Shangombo

Chibaranda

Rivungo

RD323

RD462

RD463

MONGU

LAND OF CONTENTION

Sometime in the early 1960s right through

to 1990, the Caprivi Strip was the centre

of strife and contention. And even in the

late 1990s, conflict bubbled over.

Historically, this 500km-long (300-mile)

strip was the domain of the Barotse; in

time it became a British protectorate, later

passed into the hands of Germany, and

then fell under South Africas wing until

Namibia gained her independence. The

Strip also failed to evade spillover from

the Angolan civil war. More peaceful today,

there are moves to involve the local farm-

ing communities in conservation efforts

along the Caprivi and in reaping revenues

for their own benefit.Tel: 00264 66 686 802

Email: [email protected]

BWABWATA NATIONAL PARK

Formed from remnants of the now disman-

tled Caprivi Game Park (see also p23),

Bwabwata occupies a western and an

eastern tract within the Caprivi Strip, on

the Okavango River to the west and on the

Kwando River to the east. Protracted con-

flicts here during the struggle for independ-

ence have undoubtedly taken their toll with

burning and clearing of vegetation, and the

hunting out of wildlife. On the plus side,

the natural migration route runs through

here, and the verdant aquatic vegetation

cant fail to tempt the passing animal

parade back to its turf. For now, elephant,hippo, crocodile and feline prowlers, lion

and leopard, inhabit the recovering terrain.

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POPA FALLS

At the Caprivis westernmost extent, near

Bagani, the Okavango River disperses into

a broad series of rapids that cascade over

the rocks, creating water channels and

splashing around islands. The Popa falls

dont exactly live up to their name but you

can spend some idle moments negotiating


16/16

REGIONAL OVERVIEWS

DRIVING ROUTES EASY-TO-USE STRIP ROUTES

LOCATION MAPS

IMAGES & DETAILS OF TOP SITES

FULL 64 PAGE ATLAS SECTION COVERING:SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO, NAMIBIA, BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE & MOZAMBIQUE

96 CITY & TOWN MAPS

DETAILED TOURISM RESOURCES

Map Studio 2008. Previous edition publishedas the Touring Atlas of Southern Africa ISBN1-86809-807-9. All rights reserved. No part of

this publication may be reproduced, stored in aretrieval system or transmitted in any form or byany means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetictape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or

otherwise, without prior permission in writingfrom the Copyright owner.

Cover image by Hirsh AronowitzMap Studio & the MapStudio device trademarked

to New Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd

www.mapstudio.co.za

T R A V E L

drive southern africa. isbn 9781770260085

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