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Principles of
Garment Design
Edited by:
M. S. Ahmadi
Yazd University
Main References
• Art Principles in Clothing, Edith Pankowski & Dallas Pankowski, 1972
• Clothing; fashion, fabric and construction,
Jeanette Weber, 2008.
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What is clothing made up of?
Good fashion has a combination of the
elements and principles of design.
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Elements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of Design
••LineLine
••ShapeShape
••ColorColor
••TextureTexture
••SpaceSpace
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Lines خطوطارتباط بين دو يا چند نقطه•
مشخص نمودن و تقسيم نمودن فضا•ايجاد شكل ها و فرم ها•ايجاد حركت•تعيين جهت•
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• Structural & Decorative lines
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Straight Lines
• Message
– Forceful, Rigid, Strong, Hard, Formal, Masculine, Crisp, Stiff, Severe
• Illusion
– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces body lines and angles, counters curved lines and rounded body areas
• Placements
– Closures, Necklines, Collars, Lapels, Seamlines, Darts, Tucks, Pleats, Folds, Stripes, Shapes, Silhouettes
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ديگرچند مثال9Principles of garment design
Curved Lines
• Message– Gentle, Romantic, Fragile, Soft, Casual, Feminine, Graceful,
Sensual
• Illusion– Holds attention longer, increases, emphasizes, reinforces
rounded soft-body curves, counter straight lines and angular body areas
• Placements– Fabric pattern, necklines, collars, yokelines, seamlines,
bows, lapels, sleeves, ruffles, skirts, gathers, trims, buttons
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.از خطوط منحني به طور گسترده اي در البسه استفاده مي شود.اين خطوط تمايل دارند تا از خطوط طبيعي شكل بدن تبعيت كنند
.خطوطي كه شكل طبيعي را دنبال مي كنند عموماً زيباتر و دلپذيرتر به نظر مي رسند
كدام يك از طرح هاي فوق دلپذيرتر به نظر مي رسد؟11Principles of garment design
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جهت قوس منحني.خطوطي كه قوس آنها به سمت پايين است احساس شادابي در ذهن ايجاد مي كنند
شانه ها را . خطوط منحني با قوس به سمت باال احساس غمگيني را منتقل مي كننداين خطوط بايد با دقت بااليي .گرد و بخش هاي زير قوس را بزرگ جلوه مي دهند
.در البسه به كار گرفته شوند
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However, a garment designed with only straight lines is too severe;
a garment with all curves is too unstable. For optimal beauty, the
two should work together. Straight lines are softened by the curves
of the body, and full curves must be restrained to be compatible
with the human form.
However, a garment designed with only straight lines is too severe;
a garment with all curves is too unstable. For optimal beauty, the
two should work together. Straight lines are softened by the curves
of the body, and full curves must be restrained to be compatible
with the human form.
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Line Direction
The direction that the line falls affects the
design, message and illusion drastically.
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Line directions can be compared to the human body when
standing,sleeping, and running.
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Vertical Lines
• Message
– Formal, strong, dignified, stiff, business-like, stately, conservative, grandious, majestic, efficient
• Illusion
– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces length, height, narrowness, thinness– slimming, counters horizontal lines
• Placement
– Deep v-necklines, pointed collars, narrow lapels, narrow panels or gores, fabric insets, lengthwise grainline, vertical stripes, darts, tucks, pleats, folds, crease, zippers, row of buttons, pockets, ties, neckties, long sleeves, high heels
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Horizontal lines
• Message
– Restful, stable, calm, relaxed, casual, quiet, serene, in repose, lethargic
• Illusion
– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces width, bulk, shortness, counters vertical lines, when placed high appears taller, when placed low appears shorter
• Placement
– Necklines, flat collars, bow ties, yoke lines, horizontal stripes, belts, cuffs, waistline, sashes, patch/flap pockets, wide-set double-breasted closure, strap shoes, platform shoes, wide-brimmed hat
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Diagonal
• Message– Active, movement, instability, excitement, interesting,
dramatic, restless, sophisticated, in motion, vitality
• Illusion– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces the direction of the
dominant angle, counters vertical and horizontal lines
• Placement– V-shaped neckline, open collar, lapels, raglan sleeve
seamlines, French darts, closures, surplice closure, row of buttons, fabric inset, diagonal stripes, gores, herringbone pattern, zigzag pattern, A-line skirt, flared skirt or pants, shoe laces crisscross straps
.خطوط مايل اثر جواني و جنب و جوش، بي قراري و هيجان را القا مي كنند
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در اين . استفاده خيلي زياد از زاويه هاي تند در طراحي نامطلوب است•
موارد الزم است تا از حالت متعادل كننده ناشي از خطوط ديگر استفاده
.نمود
خطوطي كه در يك طرح بيشتر مورد استفاده قرار مي گيرند، خطوط غالب •
.ناميده مي شوند
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استفاده تنها از يك جهت خط، ايجاد طرحي يكنواخت و غير .جذاب مي كند
استفاده از خطوطي ديگر با درجه اهميت كمتر براي ايجاد تنوع و .افزايش جذابيت الزم است
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Optical illusion
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.خط با مدت زماني كه چشم بر رزي آن تمركز مي كند مرتبط است قدرت.خط غالب در طرح داراي قدرت بيشتري است
.خط با هم بر ايجاد خطاي ديد تأثير مي گذارند قدرتو طولهرچه طول خط عمودي بلندتر بوده و به لحاظ ظاهري قدرت بيشتري داشته باشد تأثير بيشتري بر
.بلند نشان دادن فرد دارد
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تضاد طول و قدرت
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تقابلتقابل انتقالانتقال تابشتابش
آرايش خطوطآرايش خطوط
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با ديدن خطوط تابشي چشم چشم در يك لحظه در راستاهاي مختلف حركت مي كند اما .همواره به محور مركزي باز مي گردد
.خطوط تابشي داراي اثر جنبش مي باشند34Principles of garment design
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Portfolio Assignment
• Create 3 portfolio pages
– Straight Line, Curved Line, Diagonal Line
• Address the following in the paragraph:
– What lines are found in the picture?
– Where are the lines found?
– Are the lines structural or decorative?
– What is the illusion and message associated with the described lines.
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What is good and bad
about the design?
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Shapes/Forms
They describe the outer
dimensions or contour of
objects. Shapes also enclose
space and impart a certain
character to the objects viewed.
Shape is a flat two-dimensional
area enclosed by lines
Form is a three-dimensional
area enclosed by a surface
They describe the outer
dimensions or contour of
objects. Shapes also enclose
space and impart a certain
character to the objects viewed.
Shape is a flat two-dimensional
area enclosed by lines
Form is a three-dimensional
area enclosed by a surface
فرم ها/شكل ها
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Type of shapes and forms
1. Equal sided
a. Shapes – Square, circle, equilateral triangle,
pentagon, hexagon, octagon, diamond, marquis, ogive,
Star
b. Forms – sphere, cube
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2. Unequal sided
a. Shapes – oval, scalene and isosceles triangle,
rectangle, parallelogram, trapezoid, heart, teardrop,
paisley, club, spade, pear, kidney
b. Forms – tube, cylinder, cone, pyramid, rectangular
box, bell, dome, ovoid, egg, hourglass, trumpet, barrel
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Attributes of Shape and FormAttributes of Shape and Form
Shapes project the moods of the types and directions of lines enclosing
them and the space within them.
1. Stable and confident – rectangles, squares
2. Less stable but more dynamic – triangles, pentagons, hexagons,
octagons, trapezoids, parallelograms, cones, and pyramids
3. Visually interesting – unequal proportions
4. Less visually interest – equal proportions, circle, square, sphere, cube
5. Security – shapes that fit together tightly, squares, hexagons, ogives,
diamonds, triangles, paisleys, parallelograms, rectangles
6. Variety – shapes that leave spaces, octagon, star, circle, etc.
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Basic shapesBasic shapes
In dress designing there are seven basic shapes — each
season adaptations of one or more of these
predominates the fashion picture.
1. Rectangle
Examples: Long, straight, hanging in loose, graceful
folds, such as in Greek and Roman styles; straight
line sheaths; tailored suits. Styles with these lines
are slenderizing and suitable for the well
proportioned, heavier woman.
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2. Triangle
Examples: Spanish styles. Fitted bodice,
bell shaped gently widening skirt.
3. Inverted Triangle
Examples: Wide shoulders, narrow skirt,
dolman or raglan sleeves. Good fashion
design style for large bust.
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4. Oval
Examples: Draped and softly molded, very
feminine and decorative. Good for well
proportioned, ideal figure. Suitable
especially for afternoon and evening wear.
5. Square
Examples: Straight or boat shaped
neckline, boxy jackets, capes. Generally
this style is very good for the very thin
figure, however, with proportions well
planned and good design, can camouflage
various figure irregularities.
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6. Round
Examples: Wide, crinoline lined skirts, petal
shapes, puffed sleeves. Suitable for formal
wear or afternoon frocks. This fashion
design is the most attractive on the very
young and the very thin figure.
7. Hourglass
Examples: Wide shoulders, leg of mutton
sleeves. Natural or wasp waist.
Smooth fit over hips and full skirt at
bottom. Good fashion design for the tall,
thin figure.
* Combinations
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(repetition)تكرار •
(contrast)تضاد •
(transition)انتقال •
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.براي ايجاد يكپارچگي استفاده شده است.......... در اين شكل از
هنگامي كه دو شكل متضاد يا نامرتبط با هم در طرح قرار مي گيرند، هر كدام تمايل . دارند تا توجه را به ديگري جلب كند
.از شكل هاي متضاد هنگامي كه تأثيرات عميق و قوي مد نظر است استفاده مي شود
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:اصل راهنما در انتخاب و طراحي يك لباس
طراحي يك لباس بايد متشكل از اشكال و اندازه هايي باشند كه هم به نوبه خود
.خوشايند بوده و هم زيبايي شخص پوشنده لباس را ارتقاء بخشد
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بيضي گرد كشيده مثلثي مربعي
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