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Volunteer Tree Work on Trails
Aaron North, Southern New England Regional Trails Supervisor, Appalachian Mountain Club
Scott L. Royal, Volunteer Chainsaw Operator, Skilled Felling Trees, Leading & Teaching Volunteers
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What will we cover today?• Why Aaron and I are here• Definitions• Safety information about Chainsaws• Mental Health & Sleep• Kickback• Assessing a Tree or Situation• How we go about our tree work• Two saws Bucking one tree• Felling & Bucking on sloped ground• Butt Bounce ~ Stop the Bleed• Working in Hot Weather ~ Ladders & Tree Work• Spotters• What does a Semi-Professional Sawyer look like• Testing Our Chainsaw Operators
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We created this presentation
To be part of a network of volunteers doing tree work on trails, who are continuing to grow and develop their skillsets
So when we get together as a group, we are committed to & operating at, a higher level of skillfulness and professionalism
As a result we are safer ourselves, safer for each other and for all those around us
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This presentation is for people that may be engaged in:
• Trail building• Hazard tree removal near structures or communal
spaces• Invasive species mitigation• Fuels reduction• Wildlife habitat restoration• Constructing art or furniture• Firewood!
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Definitions
Bind: Compression & Tension, that dictates our choices when sawingBoring \ Plunging: Driving the nose of the guide bar into a tree or logBucking: Cutting a fallen tree to lengthFaller: A Sawyer cutting down a treeFelling: The act of cutting down a treeKickback: “A strong thrust of the saw back toward the faller generally resulting from improper use of the nose of the bar”[8]Limbing: Removing branches from a fallen treeSawyer: A person who cuts woodSpotter: A volunteer combined with our caution taped boundary, to stop traffic as necessaryStruck By: At 5:00 p.m. on May 29, 2019, an employee was killed when he was Struck By a tree that he was cutting down Swamper: Person that removes the limbs created by Limbing
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Important Safety Items:
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)• First Aid kit and Training• Emergency Action Plan (EAP)• Situational Awareness• Communication
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Chainsaw Anatomy and 5 Safety Features
• 1. Chain Brake
• 2. Chain Catcher• 3. Throttle Interlock• 4. Right Hand Guard• 5. Spark Arrestor• Anti-vibration Mounts• Scabbard• Clutch Drum
The three safety features that must be working: Chain Brake, Chain Catcher & Throttle Interlock
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• Chain brakes are activated by either the Front Hand Guard or automatically by Inertia
• Before operating our saw how do we ensure our chain brake is workingproperly? With the engine OFF
Brake OFF: Chain Moves Freely. Brake ON: Chain does NOT move
• And to test the Inertia activated Chain Brake:
“With the engine turned off, hold the chain saw over a stump or other firm object. Let go of the front handle so that the bar drops towards the stump as the chain saw rotates around the rear handle. When the bar hits the stump the brake should be activated” [1]
• And lastly, these saws are meant to be started with the Brake ON
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Cut Plan and Considerations
• O.H.L.E.C.• 5 Bind Types• Spring Poles• Regional Regulations• Necessary Equipment• Time Line• Weather
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Mental Health:
Our mental well-being fluctuates according to life. Myself, I have a semi effective relationship with my emotional self. I’m able to be honest about my current state of mind. As a result I’ve said on several occasions, that today is
not a good day for me to run a chainsaw
It’s important that I recognize these times and that I honor my emotional self by not putting myself in a less than ideal situation, with a chainsaw in hand
And on those days, I have chosen to not run a saw
We can co-create an emotionally friendly volunteer group where each of us can be true to exactly what is going on for us, right now
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Sleep:
On several occasion I have gotten home at Zero-Dark-Thirty from Logan airport. As a result the next day while on the trail I have
consistently left my saw in the car and was a Spotter\Cleaner-upper instead
For me operating a saw without a good nights sleep is an unsafe choice. Physically and mentally I’m compromised. This is no
condition for me to be running a saw, especially around volunteers and trail users
Rock Climbing & Tree Work?
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1989 – 2008 I was climbing rocks & leading small groups
Climbing taught me who & what I need to be responsible for
There’s also an annual publication “Accidents in North American
Climbing”, documenting climbing accidents
“To help climbers avoid similar problems in the future.”[2]
And this is why we’re here today. To take a look
So we can avoid “similar problems our future”
As a volunteer Sawyer
I’m Responsible, for our volunteers,
volunteer groups and our trail users
In an effort to keep us all safe, I need
to be as professional as I can be
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Kickback
• “Kickback is the most powerful reactive force you will encounter
while operating a chainsaw”[3]
• “Kickback can occur while felling, limbing, bucking or brushing
when the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts a solid object
or is pinched”[3]
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The bar has 4 distinct areas and they all have different Reactive Forces
• On the top of the bar is our Pushing chain. This pushes the saw towards the operator
• On the bottom of the bar is our Pulling chain. This pulls the saw away from the operator
• On the bottom quadrant of the bars nose is the Starting corner. This is used to initiate a bore cut or plunge cut
• On the top quadrant of the bars nose is the Kickback corner. This is the area that contributes to a kickback
• As long as the chain is moving, that Kickback Corner, it’s always there.• Waiting for when we become fatigued or distracted
• The reactive forces generated when the kickback corner comes into contact with an object, have caused great bodily harm to many chainsaw operators
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2 Types of Kickback, Linear & Rotational
• Linear Kickback, Pushback or Pinchback: When bucking down from the top of the log the saw kerf can close and pinch the Pushing Chain. This can cause the chain to immediately STOP and all that reactive energy can quickly and powerfully force the saw back at the operator
• Rotational Kickback: “When the upper quadrant of the bar nose comes into contact with a solid object or is pinched”.[3] Demonstrate…
• We can Protect Ourselves by consciously wrapping our LEFT thumb around that front handle, every time we grab our saw. We can help one another by watching each other’s left thumb
• While bucking we can put a wedge into the saw kerf to keep from pinching our chain
• Keep our body out of the bars path
• While limbing we can straighten our Left arm or lock our LEFT elbow
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Some of the Causes Leading to a Kickback:
• A Loose and or Dull Chain
• NOT paying attention to the Tip of our Bar
• Allowing a bar’s upper quadrant to come into contact with an object
• Removing the bar from a cut while the saw is at full throttle
Preventing a Kickback or minimizing the harm of a kickback:
• Wrap my Left thumb (my LEFT thumb is my 6th safety feature)
• Operating with a properly tensioned and sharp chain
• Know where the tip of your bar is at all times
• Operate a saw while keeping your body out of the bars path
• Be mindful when entering a saw kerf or removing a saw from a cut
• Release the throttle, before removing your saw from a plunge cut
• Use Low Kickback chains. My Low-Kickback chain is my 7th safety
feature. My 8th safety feature is my consistently well made Hinge
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October 5th, 2019
• When emergency personnel arrived they determined that
the teenager had been cutting timber when the chainsaw
kicked back, cutting him near his neck.
August 23, 2019
• An unidentified 25-year-old man was injured when he
suffered serious wounds to his face including one eye.
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Assessing a tree or situation
prior to beginning work
A.K.A.
Go/NO Go
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Kelly Clarkson
Recorded a song “Walk Away”
“I got myself in, the worst mess I've been”[4]
She’s talking about a relationship. Similarly, when felling tree’s,
we’re having a temporary relationship with a tree
In tree work getting in over our heads can be easy if we are not
skilled enough to accurately assess the tree or situation in front of
us. Reading tree’s well takes time
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• Early on I spent hours practicing reading trees, so when
it’s show time, I’m better prepared
• Assessing each tree begs us to be humble enough, to
recognize a situation beyond our present skillset
• And when we find a tree out of our league, we take that
opportunity to be honest and get used to saying NO
• It’s an honorable thing to admit a tree
or situation is above my skillset
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Some questions a Sawyer might want to ask when assessing trees
• Where is my skillset right now?
• Is my current skillset a little or even a lot rusty?
• When was the last time I cut down a tree?
• Am I really up for this tree or situation?
• Do I understand what I’m looking at?
• Is it late in our outing and I’m feeling worn out?
• Are we better off, if we leave this tree for another day?
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Sometimes the smartest choice
is to Walk Away
As a Sawyer our safety,
is my highest priority
More important than felling any tree
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I’m hopeful todays presentation
optimizes our future ability,
to go directly Home
It’s like we’re creating a Savings
Account for our Situational Awareness
Today we’re making a deposit
into the future well-being,
of our volunteer self
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So how do we go about our tree
work?
We start by remembering
We are falling trees on trails that are busy, with human activity
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I want to qualify this 1st though
This is not the only way. I hope you will consider this presentation
as a starting point. As more experience to learn from
Not as an end point
Not as one class & done
We learn as we go and we adjust accordingly and in a years time
we may be doing some things differently
Arriving on sight, with a minimum of 3 people,our leader creates a plan and shares it with the crew
Once the caution tape barriers are installed
in both directions and our Spotters
are in place at their barriers
Then our volunteer Sawyer goes to
work felling that tree
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What happens once our tree hits the ground?
We WAIT
Right
Where
We
Are…
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For the first 30 seconds or so, after our tree hits the ground
We WAIT
During that half minute we WATCH for falling debris. We give it time
to fall to the ground before we enter the work zone
In the industry they have a very wise saying
“Death comes from above”
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This is also know as
“Struck By”
and it can come in many forms
Falling, Thrown, Rolling, Sliding, Barber
Chairing and so on
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• So once our tree is on the ground, the debris has had time to fall out and our tree’s have settled down. What’s next?
• It’s not uncommon for us to have 10 or more people waiting
while we are Felling and to let them come through once the tree
is on the ground, and before cleanup begins
• Then our Sawyer gets to work bucking that tree(s)
• At the same time our Spotters and helpers need to keep
a minimum of 10’ from a running chainsaw at all times
• Remind everyone of this at your Safety Briefing.
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• This 10 foot safe zone continues to be one of the most difficult
ideas for some of our volunteers to enthusiastically embrace
• Spotters are best advised, for the sake of everyone, to NOT touch
the limb or log until after the operator is done cutting it
• During the bucking & cleanup I would keep your caution tape in
place to slow people down while we work
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While limbing & bucking, spotters and Sawyer need,to continue to be mindful of traffic
The Sawyer needs to either shut off their saw or
stop sawing and apply the chain brake
while trail users pass
For me it feels appropriate shutting my saw off
when trail users are present
If ahead of time we learn what to look out for
We increase our chances of avoiding potential incidents
We increase our ability to go directly Home at the end of the day
Just for the record,
going directly home is cool
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Why do we use caution tape and a Spotter?
• Because a Spotter alone is not always enough
• Caution tape & a Spotter have proven to be more effective
• We’re trained to respond to caution tape
Lastly about caution tape barriers
• We aim to install them two tree length’s away from our
tree or work zone, to protect our volunteers & trail users
• (two tree length’s is an industry standard)
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One more thing about caution tape
When felling tree’s in parking lots
Use a vehicle (with 4-way hazard lights ON), caution tape and a
Spotter to stop vehicles and or people from driving, pedaling or
walking into your felling zone
In other words position a vehicle, caution tape and Spotter
Blocking the entrance(s) into your parking lot
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A Blue Subaru Outback, a parking lot and a dead pine:
We were felling trees one day in a parking lot, and as I was going through my felling cuts, I noticed in my peripheral vision a Blue Subaru station wagon. It had driven not 10 feet from my running saw and the dead pine I was felling.
Thankfully I had not yet completed my plunge when the car drove past. So my tree was still stable.
Though I had spotters in the parking lot, I had not yet thought it out to see the potential hazards of not properly blocking the entrance. My spotters had not seen this opportunity for a close call, either.
After the car parked, I finished my felling cuts and dropped the tree.
Take Aways:
I had not thought of closing that parking lot off to traffic by blocking the entrance. This had not occurred to me. That Blue Outback was like a bolt of lightning, cutting through my mental fog. I was also felling directly into the parking lot instead of along it’s outside edge. Falling my tree along the parking lots edge would have made the situation safer as well.
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Months later felling trees in a smaller parking lot, remembering the teachings of the previous
one, we were better prepared.
I parked my car across the entrance, with my 4-way hazard lights ON.
I also extended caution tape from the front and rear of the car to the guard rails. We also had
one if not two spotters near the car as well.
This time I was felling 3 trees over 24” in diameter and we had perfect control over the
parking lot and the felling area.
Lesson learned.
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And one more reason why we use caution tape to keep everyone but the Sawyer out of the falling area
August 16, 2019
“An unidentified teenager died while cleaning up storm-damaged trees”
“A news release from the Barron County Sheriff’s Department identified the victim as a 14-year-old, from Melrose, WI”
“It also added that another person had been cutting down the tree that hit the young man”
“The falling tree struck him on the head”
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• One group of trail users I need to discuss for a moment. Our
young adults
• On several occasions I have been in the middle of limbing or
bucking my tree, while several younger people pass by me, only
a foot or two away
• Using both a Spotter and a caution taped boundary, increases
our chances of keeping these young adults safe
• Of keeping everyone safe
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Two chainsaw’s limbing & bucking, ONE tree
Having two Sawyers bucking the same tree,
has the potential to be a dangerous choice
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What is one way that this situation can be harmful?
Operator A on their end of the tree cuts a large limb off the tree. Doing so they alter the distribution of weight
causing the tree to roll or shift its position
As a result of operator A’s action, Operator B on the other endof the tree is now “Struck By” the tree,
as it adjusts its position
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So how do we avoid the potential hazards, of having two guys
bucking the same tree, at the same time
We are as safe,
as we choose to be
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• The very best way, is to allow one person, and only one person,
to limb and buck that ONE tree. This is also a great idea on
trees roughly 6” and smaller
• So lets say you have a bigger tree and it makes sense
to have two saws working on that one tree
• How do we go about this mindfully?
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• Our plan begins with keeping a minimum of 15 feet,
between working chainsaws
• Prior to the Sawyer’s bucking, one of them cuts a two foot
chunk, out of the tree. We cut so the log easily rolls out
• The operator then rolls that chunk out from between the
two halves. Leaving a two foot gap
• Operators A and B now have their own tree
• Doing this we are choosing a safer method of work
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Imagine two chainsaws cutting at full speed
less than 10 feet from each other
We need to maintain a minimum of 15 feet
between running chainsaws, when bucking
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When Sawyer’s become too close to one another
one of us needs to walk away and let our volunteer
BFF finish the tree alone
By making choices that are good for each other
We establish methods of work, that are
safer for everyone
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Forward Leaning Tree’s:
• When Felling with the lean this is known as a forward leaning tree• When unskillfully felling forward leaning tree’s we can trigger a reaction
known as a Barber Chair• Barber Chairs and the lack of understanding and\or predictability of them,
have hurt and killed many loggers and homeowners• I want to be clear here, Felling forward leaning trees is NOT the only way we
can trigger a barber chair• But for today forward leaning trees is what we’re going to talk about• NEVER stand or walk directly around the back side of a leaning tree. • Instead, make a loop 10 feet or so around the back of the tree. Similarly, do
not stand directly under the lean.• Approaching these trees to assess & cut them, ideally we would come in at
a right angle from the direction of the lean. Meaning the tree would lean either to our right or our left as we walk in to it.
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This split that progresses vertically up the trunk, combined with the weight and motion of the upper part of the tree now falling forward, this is what drives the back of the tree to split vertically and whip outwards from the trunk
It can do this quickly and with great force
Sometimes this part of the tree, as it separates from the trunk, will also strike the Sawyer. IF the Sawyer is directly behind the tree, even just his head, is in the path of the piece splitting away, that is enough to hurt or kill the Sawyer
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Notice how the tree splits vertically up the trunk.
Also notice how the top of the vertical split acts like a pivot point for a massive portion of the tree.
Also notice that the tree is no longer vertical and the tree top is now roughly pointed at 10:00 on a clock face.
The top 3\4 of the tree is well on it’s way to the ground.
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Here we have the same tree once the very top has hit the ground.
In this example, the tree has remained attached to the vertical base.
Sometimes the pivot point can break and the tree will fall to the ground.
This falling to the ground is also what kills or injures many Sawyers.
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So we went from a safe situation. A leaning tree that will basically stay right where it is. To a situation because of a lack of understanding and skillset, that is hazardous at best.
Lets say we have Barber Chaired a tree and now there is a 70 foot long log, 9 feet off the ground, that is sort of attached to the vertical base. Do I know how to resolve this? Do I know who to call?
Does this example of a 70 foot log delicately balancing 9 feet in the air, does this help me embrace the necessity for me to be deeply honest about my skillset?
Can we see that the original leaning tree was safer if we had done nothing?
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I would encourage all of you to take a look online at a video of a barber chair. To see what it looks like in real time
It’s enlightening to see a sawyer running for their life from what is sometimes an avoidable reaction
It’s even more interesting witnessing a live barber chair
Hopefully this is enough to keep most people from unknowingly Felling these forward leaning trees. Trees that are waiting to release all that stored energy, by Barber Chairing
What I want you to come away with today is the ability to see a forward leaning tree and to recognize it as a hazardous situation and to NOT attempt to Fell these trees. At least not yet
I want you to have that knowledge & understanding in your back pocket
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• What about those of us wanting to tackle these trees in our future? How do we prepare to safely fell forward leaners?
• Watching someone else fell several leaners, we ask, “Do I really want to put myself in that position?” If the answer is still yes
• We practice Soren Eriksson’s technique on lots & lots of vertical trees. We fell trees leaving high stumps and practice our felling cuts even more
• We become masters of the open faced notch, at creating a hinge and making & using a trigger. We Get In. We Cut. We Get Out, moving DOWN our escape route with purpose. We become excellent at this Felling routine
• We remain dedicated to using our escape routes on all trees
• We also look at how to protect ourselves by wrapping these tree with a chain or large strap, to further prevent a barber chair
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• This is where felling with a skilled sawyer on a regular basis is helpful
• We get their direct input assessing the stumps of our recently fallen tree(s)
and our technique as a whole
• There are those of you that may choose to not Fell these hazardous trees.
That’s a wise choice
• Those with families depending on you, may want to look at this for what it
is. Dancing with what can be, a life altering situation
• I want to sum this up. If you have not fallen a hundred or more trees with
Soren Eriksson’s technique, it is not yet time to fall a forward leaner
• Learn and practice this technique on your vertical trees
• For now, I’d ask you to walk away from these forward leaning tree’s
• I have included two stories about witnessing live Barber Chairs from
improperly felling forward leaning trees
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I have had the experience of witnessing two barber chairs.
The first one was a situation where a co-volunteer did not have the knowledge or experience to
understand or effectively fell this tree. I did have the knowledge and experience, but not the
determination to go toe to toe, to keep him safe. Instead I gave him better felling cuts. I should
have forbidden him from felling that tree and or walked away. He Barber Chaired that tree and was
lucky to come away unscathed.
The second Barber Chair was with a different co-volunteer. Again his skill set was short, but not by
nearly as much. We talked through his felling process, but without a whiteboard for him to draw his
cuts and sequence on, I missed one crucial point of failure. After he cut his trigger to release the
tree, his shallow notch quickly closed and the tree instantly Barber Chaired.
With the tree now 7 feet horizontally off the ground, held up by only a small arcing strap of wood
on the stump end and the limbs supporting the top, we had gone from a safe leaning tree, to a
dangerous situation. Thankfully I was able to safely get this to the ground.
I went over with saw in hand and began cutting through the tensions side of the strip coming out of
the stump. As I slowly cut this, without cutting it off completely, the whole tree gently lowered to
the ground.
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Forward leaning trees require a skillset that needs to be learned on vertical trees first.
Soren Eriksson’s technique has seen me fell about 20 of these forward leaners without a Barber Chair. Having fallen hundreds of trees with Soren’s technique I was prepared to effectively fell my forward leaners.
A couple years after witnessing this 2nd barber chair, I was teaching a class for our own Sawyers. I had prepared 3 or 4 pages on Barber Chairs. During the 45 minute discussion, one of our Sawyers made a great statement.
“Maybe our most skilled fallers should be the only ones felling these forward leaners.”
I had gotten through to him. Though he has been cutting for a very long time, he allowed the new information in. Doing so he earned my respect & trust.
As a group that day I think we all came away better prepared for the next forward leaner. Even if it was just knowing to not fell it. At least not yet.
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Another thing when assessing a volunteer Sawyers skillset, prior to them felling a forward leaner.
Is to have them draw their felling cuts on a small white board. Both the side view and the top view to more accurately assess their abilities.
If we can draw it (Plan the Fell) then we are in a better position to “Fell the Plan”.
At the same time we would also want them to talk us through the execution of their plan.
Are they really ready? Did they mention using a chain or strap to further protect the tree from Barber chairing?
Have they talked about making & using their escape route?
Felling forward leaning trees begs us to be humble until we are truly ready. Unless we Fell and practice regularly, it may take years to build the skillset.
We may also find, we never fell one of these more difficult trees.
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The lesson that I am still learning, is that for me to be an effective leader I have to be MORE willing to say NO, to our volunteers. And to leave these forward leaning trees to those with a proven skillset. I\we also need to continue preparing our Sawyers to accept that some, even many trees, will be off limits to them\us.
That our volunteers are mentally prepared for “No this is a tree your not yet ready for”. And that they stand by a more experienced Fallers decision.
As Volunteer Sawyers operating on trails we need to become both knowledgeable and humble enough to refrain from attempting to cut these forward leaning trees, until if or when we possess the necessary skill.
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Another concern when felling, limbing & bucking
And on Rail Trails this is quite common
What if our tree is standing or resting on the side of a hill, above
or below the bed of the trail?
What should we consider when our tree is
on a sloped surface?
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Simply stated:
Felling, limbing & bucking on a sloped surfaceis far more involved & hazardous,
than felling and bucking on flat ground
Here we have the more experienced operator
fell & buck this tree
ALONE
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If your most skilled operator lacks the expertise or the hill is too steep,
the tree or situation is too complex
Please leave it for someone else
Humility is an asset when assessing trees standing or lying on the side of a hill
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If you do decide to fell or buck a tree that is on a sloped surface,
especially when above the trail. I have questions for you
• These pieces that you cut off, will they in turn, roll downhill
towards the trail? Most likely they will
• Have I ensured that my spotters are out of harms way?
• Have I communicated to my helpers the hazards
of being directly below me?
• Is all traffic stopped, while I’m sawing directly above the trail?
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Bucking a tree laying on or horizontally across a slope, requires the
ability to read and understand the binds & pivot points
• Do you know where to cut and when to cut?
• Where is my best first cut?
• What’s going to happen when I make this cut?
• Where do I need to stand for this cut?
• Operating a saw on a hillside requires us to be extremely proficient as a Sawyer on flat ground FIRST. And this takes time
• Many times the best action will be caution tape & or No Action
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Lets take a look at an example from the USDA’s,
“Chain Saw and Crosscut Saw Training Course”, Students Guidebook 2006 Edition, p.45[3]
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf06672805/pdf06672805dpi300.pdf
The page number in the handbook is page 45. But on the page counter, it will be page 49 of 99. The example is at the bottom of the page.
Notice in the example that if he had stood to the right of his saw he would have lived. A small shift of 2 feet in body placement were the difference between life and death. He could also have read the situation better and bucked the tree at the pivot point. Again assessing a tree is an acquired skillset. One best learned
under the guidance of a skilled teacher.
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It’s a sensible decision to leave trees on a
slope to another sawyer
Humility is an asset
It can help keep us and others we’re
responsible for, injury free and alive
Our volunteers and trail users deserve
nothing less
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Scott’s Near Accident:
This day began by bucking a lot of stuff already on the ground. I was bucking with my best technique that afternoon. I was in a mindfully effective zone where I felt as skilled as I do when felling.
Later on I was felling a dead pine that sat atop a hillside 15 feet above the trail. I was felling it down at the trail to give other volunteers plenty to clean up behind us.
I aimed my felling cuts poorly and hung the tree in the top of one just off the side of the trail.
I began at the stump, cutting off about 3 feet at a time. Each time the butt end would fall further down the hillside.
On the 4th or so time I cut a 3 foot section off the tree, the entire butt end fell away from me.
The butt end that fell away from me landed close enough to the tree its top was hung up in, that my tree top, aided by the tension put into the tree it had been leaning on, was now thrown back at me.
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The very top of the tree that I had fallen from the hill top was now being thrown back at my body.
Back towards its own stump.
As I stood there I could see it slowly coming back at me. I was unable to move out of the way.
As luck had it that day the tree top passed not 3 feet to my left and without striking me.
It was so close I could have reached out and touched it as it passed by me.
In all my hundreds of hours reading, watching and efforting to learn, I had never seen or heard of such a thing as a tree top being thrown back at the operator, like this.
So. Why did this happen and how do I avoid it?
One: I could have taken another 30 seconds to confirm my felling cuts were aimed more accurately. And made adjustments as necessary.
Two: Once I hung up the tree, I could have dropped my saw and gone to investigate this new situation. Maybe I would have seen the other tree being bent over and have been inspired to pull my tree down with a winch or strong cable\rope puller.
Three: I could have seen the Lay as too small for my comfort and decided to Fell the tree in another direction that afforded me a better opportunity to get it to the ground, on the first try.
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Butt Bounce
???
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• Butt Bounce is when our tree falls onto or across something in such a way that the butt end is thrust up or up & sideways
• The butt end then falls with force & enthusiasm back to the ground
• To trigger a Butt Bounce, our falling tree can hit or land on a stump, a rock, a mound, another fallen tree, even it’s own branches or perhaps the biggest offender.
The rail trail itself
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• When we are felling a tree onto or across our rail trail and our felling cuts are done below the height of the rail trail, meaning our hinge is below the bed, we are likely to trigger Butt Bounce
• If our tree is long enough and we are felling directly across the rail trail, we may get two pivot points, for even more dynamic effect.
• The first pivot point is the edge of the rail trail itself that the tree falls onto first. This 1st pivot point, breaks our hinge and initiates the Butt Bounce.
• The second pivot point would be the opposite edge of the trail where it transitions from trail bed to another downward slope. This second pivot point, (again the far edge of the rail trail) is enabled by the lack of ground underneath the falling tree, allowing it’s momentum to further lift the butt end even higher.
• During this event, as our tree falls back to the ground our tree may or may not come into contact with our Sawyer
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If our operator is well trained they can avoid being a target by creating and using an escape route
We are taught to create two escape routes
We are also taught, once our tree is falling to use our escape route to get at least 20 feet away from the stump
If we habitually use escape routes on the easier trees, then on these more hazardous trees, we are better prepared to make a deliberate
& effective retreat to safety
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My example of Butt Bounce is a cherry tree with a diameter of 14”.
So for every foot of length, that 14” cherry tree weights 48 lbs.
In the first 10 feet of the butt end our tree has a weight of roughly 480 lbs.
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That 14” cherry tree in my example
The butt end was propelled at least 6 feet above the trail, before it slammed back to earth
What would happen if I was hit by that 480lb,Bull in a China shop?
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This is why I want to encourage us to no longer think of ourselves as
“I’m just a Volunteer”
In my mind I need to think like a professional
So I can act like a professional
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Do I really want to meet your loved ones(after you get injured or worse)
feeling like I should confess that we didn’t take our volunteer activity as seriously as we should have?
No, I really don’t.
We’re smarter than that. We make better choices than that.
When you’re assessing a tree ask yourself.
Does Felling this tree have the potential to trigger a Butt Bounce?
On the next 3 pages, I have included an example of a Butt Bounce I witnessed hitting one of our Sawyer’s
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An Example of a Butt Bounce:
This was one of the days I did not run a saw as I had traveled to Logan Airport the previous night. Neither I, nor our Sawyer saw the potential for a Butt Bounce prior to beginning his felling cuts. Nearing the end of his cut work I was able to see that his tree would likely produce a Butt Bounce. But at this point it was too late to inform him.
After his tree fell, the butt end did indeed bounce up and then fall back to earth. During its descent it hit our Sawyer. Lucky for us it actually just grazed him, like a belt sander running down his arm.
Five minutes later, he and I were on our way to have a doctor look at and clean this flesh wound.
As my following assessment of the overall situation will bear out, we were so fortunate that the tree just grazed him.
Now for a larger view of the situation.
We were felling on a section of trail where there were no ditches, as both sides beyond the trails edge were sloped steeply downward. And on our operator’s side of the trail, it sloped down to a body of water. Not to flat ground that then sloped to water. Instead the hillside dove right into the water.
Let’s say the Butt End had fallen 3” closer to our Sawyer. It would have hit him directly. It would not have grazed him.
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With our tree now falling 3” closer and hitting our Sawyer on the right shoulder, it would likely have knocked him down. Breaking bones and God knows what else.
Would the butt end have also glanced off the side of his helmet & head? Would it have knocked him unconscious?
What if our tree had fallen on a line 6 – 12” closer to our sawyer’s vertical center? It would likely have hit him on the helmet\head and or directly in the torso.
Just too clear things up. Our helmets offer little protection when the Butt End of even a small tree slams down on us. This was a tree about 6 – 8” in diameter. Meaning the first 10 feet of the butt end weighted over a hundred pounds. Falling from a height of just two feet above our head, a weight of 100 pounds would likely cause severe damage and or worse.
Back to the tree hitting him 6 – 12” closer to his vertical center line.
This would have severely damaged his body and perhaps his head as well. It would have almost certainly knocked him out.
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Once unconscious on that sloped surface, what’s to keep him from rolling down that hillside and right into the water?
Once our Sawyer is in the water it’s now time for someone, to perform a water rescue.
With a slightly tired version of my strongest self, I was looking at a slide down that slope and into the water to pull out my friend.
I’m 5’8”, 158lbs and though strong, would I have been strong enough to pull him from the water? To a place for air to reach his desperate lungs.
On the side of that hill could I have resuscitated him successfully? I can tell you it would have taken an incredible effort to have dragged him up that hillside by myself.
This man is a friend of mine. On occasion he has been like a father figure to me.
If, God forbid, we lost him that day, how badly would this have demolished me?
Would I still be volunteering? Would I have ever gone on to teach our Sawyers?
Likely no.
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Ladders and tree work.
They say a photo
is worth a thousand words.
What words, does this
next photo inspire?
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As if one ladder, was not enough
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“911, what’s your emergency”
“Ma’am, my neighbor Joe
and his BFF Billy…”
Instagram has a page dedicated to choices like this.
“Arborist_fails”[5]
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Safe is a choice.
If you think it needs a ladder.
It most likely needs a professional tree climber.
OR
A pole saw long enough to do the sawing without being directly
under the limb AND having both feet on the ground.
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Ladders and tree work
are a NO – GO
Please leave the ladders at home.
And from my Stihl owners manual.
“To reduce the risk of injury from loss of control, never work on
a ladder or any other insecure support.”[6]
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August 4, 2019
“According to the Tulsa Police Department, a man was on a 5-foot ladder trimming a large tree on his property. He cut through a large limb and fell off the ladder. The tree limb landed on top of him, and he died at the scene.”
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Stop The Bleed class hosted by the 5.11
Tactical store in Braintree
They offer this class once a year
“Stop the Bleed is intended to cultivate grassroots efforts that encourage bystanders to become trained, equipped
and empowered to help in a bleeding emergency beforeprofessional help arrives.”[7]
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We practiced applying a tourniquet and learned to write down the time of application and that only a doctor should remove it.
We were instructed how to pack a wound with a hemostatic dressing
Simply put this training could save someone’s life
And thanks to a friend of mine, I now carry a tourniquet
in the same pouch that I carry my wedges
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Working in 70 degrees vs 90 degrees
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Working in extreme temperatures we need to remember
Many of us are not 21 anymore
Though we can easily dress for the cold
The heat is a powerful force. One that can compromise our safety by draining our physical
and mental resources
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We need to respect the heat, by doing lessand working slower
We show up with liquids and take regular breaks to remain hydrated
If it’s really bad we can leave early, we’re volunteers
We can work earlier in the day to avoid the worst heat
Again humility is our BFF
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Spotters or Non-Chainsaw Operating Volunteers
• Bring & Wear a Helmet, Safety Glasses, Gloves and Carry a Whistle
• Dedicated to Stopping Traffic While Trees are Being Fallen
• Always Maintains a Minimum of 10 feet from a Running Saw
• Gets a Sawyers attention by standing in front of them
• Knows Where the Nearest Tourniquet is and How to Use it
• Know & Understand, You Will be Waiting at Times
• Accept being 2 Tree Lengths Away from a Falling Tree
• Wait 30 seconds and Watch for Falling Debris
• Look for Widow Makers, Power Lines, Bees Nests, etc.
• Extra points: Carry a Tourniquet and Gauze
• Keep checking for a Good Cell Signal
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What does my ideal setup look like?
• 3 Radios and Fully Charged Cell Phones
• The Most Suitable Vehicle Pointed in the Direction of Help
• Have a Tourniquet & Hemostatic Dressing, that are easily accessible
• Two People who can Install a Tourniquet or Dressing
• Having Emergency Contact’s, Medical Information, ie; allergies,
pace makers, etc., for Everyone
• Have Written Directions to get the 1st Responders to the right spot
• Everyone Wearing Helmets, Safety Glasses and Gloves
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Ideally we would be:
Taking regular breaks to avoidoperating while fatigued
Moving at a pace that is mindful
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I would also ask all Volunteer’s Engaging in Tree Work,
to no longer think of ourselves as:
“I’m just a volunteer”
I believe this thought process, leaves us open to
avoidable situations that could jeopardize our trails &
volunteer opportunities
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What does a semi-professional Sawyer look like?
• Committed to making & using an escape route
• Have a sharp chain and extra sharp chain(s)
• Use their chain brake constantly
• Carry and use wedge’s
• Consistently puts trees where they intend to. They will not always
be successful, but the vast majority of their trees will respond
favorably and land near there intended target
• Always wear their PPE
• Arrive early
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A word of caution:
Just because your Sawyer is wearing all their PPE, this is not a guarantee
that they are skilled with a saw.
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This is more of what to look for in your Sawyer
Remind you to stay 10 feet from a running saw
They, or they have you, set caution taped boundaries two tree
lengths away from the felling area
Create a plan and communicate this to you
They can walk away from trees or situations that are too
dangerous or involved for their level of expertise
They would be trained in some, all or more of, Wilderness
First Aid, CPR, Stop The Bleed, S-212, Game of Logging, etc
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Above all else they strive
to keep everyone safe
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Testing our Chainsaw Operators
Right now I’m not sure who is or is not being tested
In some parts of Europe to run a saw on property other than my
own, I would need to pass a test for a chainsaw license
As a volunteer felling trees on trails, I feel like
I should have my skillset tested every year
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I know this is likely a touchy issue. But again I would ask us to remember
We are falling trees on trails that are busy, with trail users & volunteer activity
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I believe all of us desiring to operate a chainsaw on trails,need to be tested for a specific skillset, on a regular basis
And for those that may not
pass such a test but still want
to do tree work?
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If they have a sincere desire to learn and develop the skills
necessary to perform tree work on trails
We would be wise to afford them the opportunity
to develop their skillset
And a chance to re-test at a later time
Many of whom would continue to make good Sawyer’s
while working beside someone more qualified
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Operating a chainsaw on trails is not for everyone
• For the safety of everyone around them, our operators must fully
embrace the responsibility that comes with felling trees while
volunteers and trail users are nearby
• Our non chainsaw volunteers and trail users deserve more from
those of us operating chainsaws
• Again I would say, as a volunteer chainsaw operator
I am Responsible
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To all of us venturing onto trails engaging in volunteer tree work
I would ask that we all see this for what it is
An inherently dangerous volunteer choice
One that may be far more serious than most understand at first
I would encourage us all to be great students
Tree work demands we continue to learn
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References:
1. Husqvarna Operators Manual, 555 556 560XP 560XPG 562XP 562XPG.2. Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 20183. USDA’s Chainsaw and Crosscut Saw Training Course, students
guidebook 2006 edition.4. Walk Away, written and produced by Chantal Kreviazuk, Raine Maida
and Kara DioGuardi, with additional writing from Clarkson.5. Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/arborist_fails/6. Stihl MS 270 – 280, Instruction Manual 0458 146 8621 A7. Stop The Bleed, Official website of the Department of Homeland
Security8. OSHA, LOGGING eTOOL Glossary
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Volunteer Tree Work on Trails
November 2, 2019
Aaron North, Southern New England Regional Trails Supervisor, Appalachian Mountain Club - [email protected]
Scott L. Royal, Volunteer Chainsaw Operator, Skilled Felling Trees, Leading & Teaching Volunteers – [email protected]