Transcript
  • 8/2/2019 Veliko Turnovo Pocket

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    RESTAURANTS

    LEISURE

    RESTAURANTS

    WHAT TO SEE

    BARS & CLUBS

    DIRECTORY & SHOPPINGRESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS

    WHERE TO STAY

    BARS & CLUBS DIRECTORY & SHOPPING

    ARBANASSI

    E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

    Editorial

    Editors: Christine Milner,Paromita Sanatani

    Contributors: Jaycie Clayton,Stephane

    Lambert,Maya Kacheva

    Publisher:Inside &out Ltd.

    Office:9FrityofNansenSt.,5th floor,Sofia

    [email protected]

    www.inyourpocket.com

    Christine Milner,(+359)884864820

    [email protected]

    Paromita Sanatani,(+359)888408647

    [email protected]

    Printing:IFODesign

    Published:15,000copies

    WHERE TO STAY

    SURROUNDING AREAS

    Theproliferationofstudents andyoungertouristsmakes fora healthybarandclubscenein VelikoTurnovo.Severalof thebars areownedby BritishorIrish ex-pats,whilethenightclubsseemtobeinthehandsofacoupleoflocalbusinesses.Generallyspeaking,thisis aquiettown andthereis notmuchtroubleor danger,evenlateatnight.Drugsaresoldinsomeofthebarsandtheremaybeoccasionalpoliceraids.Thereare nostrip clubshereand noovertadvertisingof escortser-

    vices.Nightclubschargebetween3and 5levaentry,or itmay befreefor womenoncertainnights.Drink pricesarereasonable,no higherthanin mostbars.

    Live MusicMaximusB-1, ul. Nezavisimost9, tel. (+359) 62 601577, www.pianobar-maximus.com.Live musicon piano accompaniedby female singer from22:00.Guest acts,karaoke nights,student and party nights.Olde worlde interior withbare stone wallsand woodenfurniture. QOpen22:00 - 02:00.Karaoke night is

    free entry,usualentry fee 3leva.

    Melon A-1,ul.Nezavisimost21,tel.(+359)62603439,www.myspace.com/melonclub.Livemusic,differentstyleseverynight,includingclassicrock,rhythmandblues,jazz,latinoand mostcertainlyno Bulgarianpop folk.QOpen18:00- 04:00.

    NightclubsBallyB-1,ul.HristoBotev2, tel.(+359)885565666,www.danceclubbally.com. Two roomsofferingdifferent musicstyles:one for musicfrom the Balkans,the other playingdifferent musicevery night.Mondays andTuesdaysare studentnights.QOpen22:00- 05:00.Closed Sun.

    Jack B-1, bul. Vassil Levski 4, insidethe theatre, tel. (+359) 887966600,www.jack-club.com. Bigoutdoor terrace makesthisthe townstop summervenueforenjoyingthelong hotnights.Mixedmenu ofStudentnights,Latino nights,Ladiesnights,Popfolknights.QOpen20:00-04:00. Summer20:00-04:00;winterworksas a cafe from09:00-01:00. 3leva entry fee.Cocktails 3-5 leva.

    Midnight B-1,ul.RafailMihailov2,tel. (+359)884855555,www.midnight.bg.Ultrasleeknightclubthatcanholdup to350peopleand playsprimarilyBulgarianpopfolk music.Althoughdespised bymany educatedBulgarians,pop folkis oftenpopularwithforeignersforthe partyatmosphere,orientalrhythms andsemi-naked

    femaleperformers.QOpen23:00- 05:00.ClosedSun.3 levaentry.

    Pubs & BarsCity Pub B-1, ul. HristoBotev15, tel. (+359) 888321645. Loudandbusypubin the towncentre close to the Tourist Info Centre.Done out like anAmericanbar,though the website saysits anIrish pub.Either way,it is ownedandrun by

    Bulgarians.Largescreensshowmusic TVor sportsdependingon thetime ofday.The menuofferssaladsandquickmaincoursessuch as chickenfi l letsfriedincornflakes.Outdoor diningonthe pavement.QOpen08:00- 24:00,Sun10:00-24:00. PJNGBXW

    Dada B-2, ul. VelchoDzhamdzhiyata 12, tel. (+359) 885840 571.Popularstudent bar with cheapdrinks,loudmusic anda mixture ofnationalities.Situatedinthe old town,the bar also hasa gardenout the backwith a great viewoverthe river andonto the hillsbeyond. Inside,its a bigbasement with huge arches.Happy hour from17:30-19:30on Bulgarianbrands.Fillsupaf ter midnight andtheparty goeson allnight. QOpen17:00 - 05:00.

    Lino A-1,ul.Nezavisimost3,tel. (+359)888535395.ThebizarrelynamedLinoBaroccupiesaprimespotonthemainroadoverlookingtheriver.Theinteriorisnothingtogetexcitedabout,butithasaniceterrace,andoffersfairlycheapdrinksandsnacks.Aimedata youngercrowd,the musiccangetloud.QOpen08:00- 23:00.JB

    Love & Lounge B-2,ul. StefanStambolov29,tel.(+ 359)888925030.Lovelychilledout barwith designerinterior,everso slightlyoffth ebeaten trackintheold town.Loungemusicduringthe week,electronicmusicat weekends.Fridayeveningsare languageeveningsfor speakingEnglishand French.QOpen16:00-23:00,Sun06:00-12:00.

    McNamaras Irish PubA-1,ul.Nezavisimost25,tel.(+359)878812358.Relatively smallIrish pubdown ina basement onthe mainstreet.Runby an Irish-manfromGalway,th e pubservesGuiness,has two large screensfor Sky Sports,a pooltable anddarts.Th ere isone large table if youare seekingcompany,orseparate woodentablesif youare already ina group.The centralexpat haunt ofVelikoTurnovowithfriendlystaff,karaokeand livemusic.Typicalpubgrub,includingchipswith curry sauce.QOpen12:00 - 24:00. JXW

    MelodieA-2,pl.Slaveikov 1,tel. (+359)879477614. Partytimeatthisbarwith clubandhouse musicor retro andlatino dependingonthe evening;servesalcohol,hot drinksand a wide selectionof cocktails.Daytime ismore laidback.

    QOpen11:30- 02:00,Sun15:00- 02:00. PW

    Royal B-1, bul. Vassil Levski 4, tel. (+359) 62 601100. Great place to enjoyanoutdoor drinkor snackinthe summer months asthis bar occupiesthe vastterracedgardensoverlookingthemainstreet andtheMother Bulgariamonument.Treesandumbrellasprovideampleshade evenonthe hottestdays.Co cktailsareonoffer,as are snacks,salads andgrilledm eats.QOpen07:30 - 24:00.

    Tequila Bar B-2,ul.StefanStambolov30. Popularbar,particularlyforstudents,with a terrace overlookingthe main roadthrough the oldtown. Serves tequilacocktails as well as coffee, breakfast, snacks and any other kind of alcohol.QOpen10:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.

    The historicarchitectural reserve ofArbanassi, 4km uphillfrom VelikoTurnovo,isthe perfect weekend getaway for allwho want to enjoy somedowntime ina beautifulsetting,serviced by goodhotels andrestaurants,with plenty ofsightseeingopportunities for those who cannot sit still.Inrecent yearsit has become particularly popular with wellto do Bulgariansandthisisreflectedinthe overallhigh standardofservicesandrelativelyhigh prices.

    There issome discrepancy about the originsof the town,but it isclear thatexiledAlbanianChris tianssettled here inthe 15th century andit graduallydevelopedinto a wealthy tradingtownand popular summer residence fortherich until1798when the kurdjalii(bandits) startedto loot andpillagethetown, sendingit into decline.Today,the beautifully restoredchurchesandmuseum housesgive usan insight into the former wealth anddeepspiritualcommitment ofthe people ofArbanassi.

    HotelsDue to the limitationsset by the architecturalreserve statusof Arbanassi,most accommodationis inbeautifully restoredoriginalhouses or newbuildingsbuilt instrict adherence to localbuildingguidelines (with only one notable hid-eousexception).There isnot much here for the budget traveller,except for aroomwith a localfamily or inthe St.Nikolai monastery,where individualroomsare onoffer at reasonable prices.

    Bulgarka (Ethnographic Complex) Arbanassi,tel.(+359)889207020,www.hotelbulgarka.com. Three luxury apartmentsare available for rent inthisbeautifully restoredethnographiccomplex.There is also a large authentictavernonthe site servingtraditionalfood anddrinks. Q Price per apartment per nightSun- Thur 120leva, Friand Sat 170leva. Includeslavish traditionalhome-madebreakfastwithbanitsa,mekitsi, buhti,freshsirene(white cheese)andhome made

    jam. TILBKW

    Restaurants & Cafes

    Bulgarka Restaurant Arbanassi, tel.(+359) 889207020, www.hotelbulgarka.com. Large indoor andoutdoor seatingareasintraditional mehana (tavern)s tyle with a richmenuofferinghome cookedBulgariancuisine,

    includinglocalspecialities.Largechildrensplayarea witha minibouncycastleadjacent to the summer garden.Duringthe summer months there isa Bul-garianfolklore programme every Wednesday,Friday andSaturday eveningat21:00.QOpen10:00 - 24:00.(12-40 leva). PTA6LEB

    Kaloyanova Krepost Arbanassi,tel.(+359)882111113,www.kaloiano-vakrepost.com. Thisreplica ofa mediaevelfortressis to be foundonth e roadout ofArbanassi towardsthe mainVarna-Sofia road.Inside the mainentrance,decoratedto resemble the grandentrance to a palace with fadedgilt wallsandthrones,is the enormousrestaurant.Tablesare laidout ontiered balconiessur-roundingthe mainentertainment area inthe middle where allkinds ofeventscanbe staged,fromre-enactments ofmediaevalbattles onhorseback to MMAfightnights.Thoughpopularforweddingsandprivateparties, therestaurantdoeswork

    for regular guests andthere is also a pleasant outside seatingarea with greatviewsand a childrensplay area.Foodon offer istraditional Bulgarian.QOpen08:00 - 01:00.Closed Mon. PEGBKX

    Luliaka Arbanassi, ul. Opalchenska1, te l. (+359) 62 630 260.Anotherfamily favourite with a large gardenarea andgood home cooking.QOpen10:00 - 22:00.(12-30leva). TB

    Mehana Izvoraul.Opalchenska3, tel. (+359) 62 627917, fax (+359) 62603850,www.izvora.com. Probablyoneof thebest placestoeat inArbanassi,especially ifyou have youngchildren,as there isso much to see anddo inthegardensofthis complex.There isevena minizoo to keepthem entertainedwhileyouworkyourway throughtheextensivemenu! Specialitiesincludewholeroastedlambor other meat dishespreparedinth e traditionalovenor onthe charcoalgrill.Thereis alsoregularfolkloreentertainmentandlivemusic.QOpen08:00- 24:00.(15-30leva). PTAILEGBXW

    IzvoraComplexul.Opalchenska3, tel. (+359) 887 429961/(+359) 62601 205, fax (+359) 62 652 206, www.izvora.com. The Izvora Complexis idealfor a family break.Situated inthe centre of the village,it combinesthetraditional local architecture with modern comfort, and offers its guests anoutdoor pool,a spa centre with sauna andsteam bath, a large centralgardenwith childrensplayground anda minizoo. The Mehana (tavern)offersfirst-classtraditionalBulgarianfare.Q32rooms(32singles34- 43,32doubles40- 60).PTABKDC

    Park Hotel Arbanassi ul. Kapitanska 7, tel. (+359) 62 523 000, fax(+359)62523001,www.parkhotelarbanassi.com.Brandnewhotelinthe lushgroundsofa private park.The hotel offersa modernatmosphere,extensive well-nessarea includingswimmingpool,sauna,massages andcosmeticprocedures.The gourmet restaurant servingmodern internationalcusine providesa starkcontrast to the localcuisine onoffer inthe village.Allrooms have a breathtakingviewdowntoVelikoTurnovoandTsarevetsfortress.Q27rooms(16 doubles60,8suites75,3apartments80). PHAFLGBKDXC hhhh

    Rachev Hotel Residence ul.DimitarPapazov 2, tel. (+359) 882 102 121, fax(+359)62655255,www.rachevarbanasi.com. Located at the edge of Arbanassi asone drives up from Turnovo, this is a hotelcomplexdesignedtofulfilyour everyneedand

    especially welcomingfor families.The bright andspaciousrooms overlookaninnergardenandpoolarea,which justinviteyou tospendmore thanafew dayshere.With allthe other facilitieson offer it certainly isvery tempting.There aretwo restaurants,one indoorsand a summer barbeque terrace,a lobby/poolbar,childrenspool andplaygroundas wellas a private chapel.Q50rooms(44 doubles 56, 6 apartments 67-77). PTHAFLKDCWhhhh

    SightsFive churches,two monasteriesand over100housesdatingbackto the 17th and18thcentury have beenpreserved inArbanassiandbear witnessto the wealth anddeeplyheldChristian faith ofth e townsinhabitantsofthat time.

    Churchof the Archangels Michael &Gabriel (Tsurkva Sveti Arhangeli Mihaili Gavrail) Arbanassi, www.museumvt.com. The church of the Archangels MichaelandGabriel isthe biggest in the vi l lage,builtaround1600,with frescoesand paintingsthatare equally impressive to those ofthe Nativitychurch.Theimposingiconostasis andBishopsthrone are unusualexamplesofgildedwoodcarving.QOpen09:00- 18:00April-October.November-March by request only.Standardmuseum admissionfee.

    Holy Virgin Monastery (Arbanashki manastir Sveta Bogoroditsa)Arbanassi. Situatedat the upper entrance ofth e village,this workingconventattractsmany visitorsand pilgrimsonreligiousholidays.Erectedin the MiddleAges,it waslater destroyedby maraudersandthe low-lyingmo dest present-daychurch datesfrom 1680.Its lovely frescoes,which are stillintact,were paintedinthe 18th century.The mainattractionis the silver-cladicon ofThe Virginwiththe Three Handswhich issaidto workmiraclesand to which believersturnto thisday whenin need.Legendtells that the iconwasburied by the nunswhenfleeingtheirattackersand waslaterfoundby a shepherdboywho heardweepingcoming

    fromunder the ground. QOpen07:30 - 20:30.

    St. Nikolai Monastery (Arbanashki manastir Sveti Nikolai Chudo-tvorets) Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 62 650 345, www.svnikolai-chudotvorec.com.Situatedinthe lowerpartof thevillage,themonastery (itis infacta convent)isa popular destinationfor visitorswho like to walkin the lovely gardensand seethepricelessicons andrelicsinsidethe chapel.Theicons ontheiconostasis haveremainedintact since 1897,while two individualicons attract pilgrimsfromafar:the miracle workingiconof St.Nikolaiandth e iconofthe Holy Virgin.Worshipperspraytothelatterandpressacoinontoit, ifthecoinstickstheybelievetheirprayerhasbeen heard.To come here onthe important church holiday onAugust 15th(dedicatedto the Holy Virgin)and to participate inthe service through the nightisan unforgettable experience.Both Tsar Ferdinandand Tsar BorisIII stayedinthismonastery whenthey travelledto Arbanassiandth e rooms they occupiedremainintact to thisday.Accommodationisavailable at thismonastery insimple,cleanrooms with theirown bathroomfacilities. Breakfast,lunch anddinner canalso be ordered. QOpen07:30 - 20:30.

    The Konstantsalieva House (Muzei Konstantsalieva Kushta)Arbanassi.The Konstantsalieva house, on one of the main roads throughthe village,originally built inthe 17th century,has beenbeautifully restored inNationalRevivalstyle. It reflectsnot only the wealth ofthe ownersbut also theattentiontodetail andthe quality craftsmanshipof that time.In a style typicalforArbanassi,the two storey house isset ina large yardsurrounded by a high stonewall.The lower floor isconstructedof stone,the upper floor andliving quartersare timber construction.Stairs are internalas anextra security precaution.Thewinter roomswere heatedby large built instoves(knownas dzhamal)which were

    fedand cleanedfroma separate service access.There iseven aninternaltoilet(hole inthe floor),a luxury many homesin theneighbouring villagesdo not haveto thisday.On the groundfloor where the store roomsandlivingquarters for theservantswouldhave been,th ere isa large souvenir shop.QOpen9:00 - 18:00Aprilto October.Closed Mon9:00 - 12:00.November - March by appointment.Standardmuseumadmission fee.

    The Nativity Church (Tsurkva Rozhdestvo Hristovo) Arbanassi.TheNativity Church isthe oldest church inArbanassi. Originally built duringthe 15thcentury thesimple lowlevelbuildingbelies the wealth ofart to be foundwithin.Nearlyeveryinchof thevaultedinterioris coveredinpaintingsandfrescoesdatingbackto the 17th century.Scenesare fromthe oldandnew testaments:the life ofChrist,the virtuesof the VirginMary, there isevena frieze ofGreek philosophersandseveralinscriptions ofthe benefactorsandsp onsors.The Wheelof Lifeonthe east wallof the north gallery isthe earliest depictionofthis type inBulgarianchurches.QOpen09:00- 18:00April- October.ClosedonMon9:00 - 12:00.November - March by appointment.Standardmuseumadmission fee.

    Pizza isthe order of the day inVeliko Turnovo andvirtually every restauranthasa longmenufeaturing every possible combinationof ingredients.ThoughBulgaria isnot the home ofpizza,they are usually very tasty,ifmade withkashkavalcheese rather thanmozzarella. Evennonpizza restaurantsinVe-liko Turnovo offer pizza,but at the same time those that proclaim themselvespizzeria also offer traditionalBulgariansalads andentrees, pasta andbasicgrilledmeats andmuch more besides.Handily,most menusappear to bephoto menus,which makeschoosingso much easier whenyoucan see whatyouare goingto get.We havent listedmany pizzeriashere, insteadfocusingonrestaurants that offer a more variedmenu.

    BulgarianBulgariancuisine istasty andsurprisingly healthy.A mealwill usually startwith a salad,the most traditionalone beingthe Shopska.The maincoursewillusually be some kindofgrilled meat,though many ofthe restaurantsalsooffer casserole-type dishes.Make sure to askwhether your maincoursecomeswith a side servingof vegetablesand potatoes,known asgarnitura,otherwise youmay endup without.

    Club na Architecta B-2,ul.Velcho Dzhamdzhiyata14,tel. (+359)62621451. Downa quiet alleyway inthe oldtown,hewn into the rockface, thistavernservingtraditional Bulgariancuisine hasa gardenwith a lovely viewof the riverandthe townbelow.This isvirtually the first restaurant one comesacross whenwalkingupto the townfrom Tsarevetsfortress.QOpen12:00 - 24:00summermonths.(3-12 leva). B

    Malkiya Inter B-3, ul. IvanVazov22, tel. (+359) 883353973.Though most localsdescribedthisplace asa bar,and it describesitselfas asnackbar,MalkiyaInterdoes infacthave afairlysubstantialmenu.Right oppositethe museumcomplex,thisplace is goodfor either a drinkor somethingquicktoeat onthe large shady terrace with its ceilingfans.Inside, the decor isa quirkymixofantique objectsthat willkeepyoufascinatedthroughout yourvisit.QOpen08:00- 23:00. PJA6GBXSW

    Shtastlivetsa 2 ul.TsankoTserkovski 14, tel. (+359) 62 606053. Up-market Bulgarianrestaurant with aninterior designedto authentically evoke theera ofthe late 19th century.This restaurant enjoys the same good reputationasits sisterrestaurant inthe oldtown,the menuextensively coveringthe bestof Bulgariancuisine,including charcoalgrill specialtiesand a large variationofthe traditionalsatch(sizzling ceramicdish).QOpen11:00 - 24:00.(6.40-29.90leva). PTAB

    Vodenitsata B-1, ul. Alexander Penchev 2, Interhotel Veliko Turnovo,tel. (+359) 62 601 000, www.interhotelvt.bg. Great choice for anyonewith a family asthis large outdoor restaurant isset in the well-tendedgardensofthe 5 star Interhotelin the quiet leafy environsof the Yantra river.Th e wholerestaurant hasa traditionaltheme to it andserves spit-roastedmeatsand othernationaldishes.

    InternationalHadji Nikoli Restaurant A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651291,www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The restaurant inthis beautifully restoredbuildinginthe oldpart of the townisone of the very fewplaceswhere youcanexperience

    fine dininginVeliko Turnovo at very reasonable prices.The mainrestaurant is onthe groundfloor with anexclusive gourmet section(separate menu)at the backforabout 20people: idealfor those very special or more private dinners! The menuoffersa cross-sectionof BulgarianandEuropeancuisine, fromBeef StroganofftoPork Porchetta andThracian Chicken. There are separate non-smokingroomsonthe first floor.QOpen08:00 - 24:00.(8 - 27 leva)main restaurant (16- 30leva) gourmet res-taurant. PTA6IGBXSW

    Middle Eastern/InternationalEthno Staro Turnovo A-1, ul. Nezavisimost5, tel. (+359) 884483 585,www.ethno.bg. Second outlet of the very popular restaurant offering variedinternationalandmiddle easterncuisine.The locationisideal:on the mainroad

    fromthe newto old townwith a terrace out the backoverlookingthe river andtheAssensmonument.Inside,the decor is homely.Try the midde easternstarter trayofhummous,babaganoush,olivepasteand taramasalatawithfreshlybakedArabicbread,followedby one ofthe fish dishesor tandoorichicken.QOpen09:00 - 01:00. PJAVGBXSW

    PizzaEgo Pizza & Grill A-1, ul. Nezavisimost17, tel. (+359) 62 601804, www.ego-vt.com. Trendy place that servesBulgarianandMediterranean cuisine,not

    justpizza.Modern interiorandterracethat looksout overtheriver.Gets quitebusyonan eveningso reservationmay be necessary.There isanother branch ofth esame restaurant further downthe roadin the directionofthe new town.QOpen08:00 - 24:00.(4.50-14.70leva). PJGBX

    La Scalla B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. (+359) 62 635 811, www.lascalla.com. Veliko Turnovos oldest pizzeria (over 20 years old!) offers awide menu of pizza, pasta, Bulgarian cuisine and fish. Pizzas come in threesizes,th e largest at a whopping800 grammesto be shared betweenfriends.QOpen10:00 - 00:30.(5-9.30 leva). PJVGBXS

    Tempo B-1, ul. Ivailo4, tel. (+359) 62 606920. Not just pizzasbut alsopasta, salads, meat and vegetarian dishes. A vast menu to choose from withsome imaginative dishes, particularly those cooked in earthenware pots.Locatedin the city centre right opposite the tourist info centre, this is a largerestaurant with smoking and non smoking sections and large patio windowsthat can be pushed right back so that diners are virtually on the pavement.QOpen10:00 - 24:00.(4-9 leva). PJ

    CafesCafesare everywhere.Bulgarians like drinkingcoffee andthey like to sit downto do it,so there isno shortage ofcafes. Not to mentionthat barsand restau-rantsare also openall day longandwill happily serve youa hot drink.We haverestrictedour listingto those cafesth at are really worth recommendingandthat willenrich your experience ofTurnovo.Bear in mindthat coffee isser vedasespresso andif youwouldl ike anythingother thanthat youshouldchoosecappucino or a coldfrappe. Youcan also askfor a dulgo cafe,which means anespresso with more water.Cream(smetana) comesin little plasticcartons.Teaisnot popular and willusually be herbal,though those that we have listedhereserve a variety ofgreenand blackteas inlittle teapots.

    Mostoftheshopsaretobefoundonthemainroads:bul.Bulgaria,VasilLevski,NezavisimostandStefan Stambolov.Thereare plentyof pharmacies,nonameclothingboutiquesand shoeshops. Ul.Rakovski,the oldcobbledstreet runningparalleltoul.StefanStambolovisa betterbetif youarelookingfortraditionalcraftsand souvenirs.Thereis currentlyoneworking shoppingmall,Central Mall,whichis someway fromthe citycentre(not walkingdistance)whichfeatures

    fashionbrandssuchasKenveloandhasairconditioningaswellastheonlycin-emaintown.UpontheSofia-Varnahighway(ul.Magistralna)iswherethemegahypermarketsare:Praktiker DIYstore andTechnopolisfor electricalgoods.

    Arts and craftsThere are many artsandcraftsshopsscatteredaroundthe streetsofthe oldtown,particularly onRakovsky street andaroundSamovodska Charshia.

    Red Gallery A-2,ul.Vastanicheska2,tel. (+359)888324039. Thischarm-ingartistsshopis just a l ittle bit offthe beatentrack,anda fewhousesupfromThe Monkey House.Here youwill findoriginal paintingsand woodcarvings byyounglocalartists, aswellas some smaller itemsthat make unique giftsandwilleasily fit into your luggage.QOpen11:30 - 19:00.Closed Mon.

    HealthfoodBiogradinaC-1,ul.MarnoPole 24G,tel.(+359)886835038,[email protected] inthecity centrethatstocksimportedorganicfoodanddrinks,herbs,teas, baby food,clothes,organicnappies andwoodentoys; organiccosmetics,some of which are locally producedand are highly recommended.QOpen09:30- 18:30,Sat 10:00- 15:00.ClosedSun.

    Shopping Malls

    Central Mall ul. Oborishte18, tel. (+359) 62674 040, [email protected], www.mallvt.eu.

    Large air-conditionedshopping and entertainmentMall. A short taxi ride from the city centre. Morethan60localandinternationalbrands,cafsanda

    restaurantaswellas thetownsonly cinemaandbowling.QOpen10:00-20:00Supermarket08:00-21:45.Placesforentertainment08:00-24:00. PAK

    Real EstateStara Planina Properties A-2, pl. VelchovaZavera, tel. (+359) 62 601245,[email protected],www.stara-planina.com. Locatedinthe centreoftownopposite theHotelYantra,this isa longestablishedrealestate andlettingagency (includingholiday lets). QOpen08.30 - 17.30.Closed Sat,Sun.

    Yantra Homes A-2, ul. Slaveikov 7, tel. (+359) 62 539 980, info@yantrahomes,com, www.yantrahomes.com. Residential, commercial andindustrialpropertyfor saleorrent. Centrally-locatedBritish-Bulgarianpartnership.QOpen09:00- 19:00,Sat 10:00- 17:00.ClosedSun.

    HealthAura Medical Centre (Meditsinski Tsentur Aura) C-1, ul. MarnoPole21, 3rdfloo r, tel. (+359) 62 600 161. Private medicalcentre inthe city cen-tre,across fromMarno Pole park,with 32doctors coveringmost ailments.Youmay have difficulty findinganyone who speaks English.QOpen08:00- 19:00.ClosedSat, Sun.

    Regional hospital Dr Stefan Cherkezov (Mnogoprofilna oblastnabolnitsa (MOBAL) Dr Stefan Cherkezov) ul. Nish1, tel. (+359) 62 640932,www.mobaltarnovo.com.Thelargeregionalhospitalhasthe onlyA&Eward,aswellas doctorsfromalmost everyfieldof medicine.Outpatientsareseen intheArkusMedicalCentre, where the receptionistsspeakenough English to point youinthe right direction,ands ome ofthe doctorsalso speakEnglish.German isalsospoken.It is some way fromthe city centre so youwouldhave to take a short taxiride to get there. QOpen08:00- 17:00.ClosedSat,Sun.

    PharmaciesThere are quite a fewpharmacies onthe townsmain shoppingstreet, selling

    everythingfrom sunscreento babiesnappies andmedicines. There are two

    CampsitesInrecentyearsacoupleofcampsiteshavesprungupinthe vicinityofVelikoTurnovo,whichisa muchwelcomeadditionforthosewholovethegreatout-doorsand wantto enjoythis lovelyregion.

    CampingVeliko Tarnovoul.VassilLevski70,Dragizhevovillage,tel.(+359)61942777/+(359)886877244,[email protected],www.campingvelikotarnovo.com.Brandnew,purpose-builtcampsite.Regulareventsareorganisedhere forthe localexpatcommunity,suchas monthlycar bootsalesandeveningsfeaturingdifferentcuisines.LocatedinthetranquilandrelaxingvalleyofTelevets,12Km eastofVelikoTarnovo;taketheE772(A4)directionVarna.TurnrightontoRoad 53to Elena,turningrightintoDragizhevovillage.Atthe topof thevillageturnleft, youwillfind thecampsite 300mbeyondthe village.45campingpitches.QOpenfrom1st Marchto31st October.18 -30 levapernight. T6BKCW

    SightsBacho Kiro Cave (Peshtera Bacho Kiro) Dryanovo. Ifyou enjoycavesandthespectacular creationsyoucan findwithin,this onecertainly wontdisappoint.FromDryanovoMonasterytheentrancetoBachoKirocaveis nomorethana gentle20minuteclimb.Visitorscanchoosebetweenthe shortandlongtour,wherebytheshorterrouteis yourbetterbetif youjustwanttogetanideaofthe caveasyoucanviewthispartofthe caveonyourown,withoutaguide.Besuretoweargoodwalkingshoesasit canbequiteslipperyinsideanditmaybeworthcarryingyourowntorch.Also rememberthatthe temperaturesinsideth ecavesare usuallyconsiderablycoolerespecially duringthe summermonths. BachoKiro cavewas

    firstopenedto visitorsin1938 butfinds indicatethatthe caveswereinhabitedasfarbackas theMiddlePaleolithicage (around70,000yearsago).QOpen9:00- 18:00April- October,10:00-16:00 November-March.Shortroute(approx.25mins)2 leva(adults)1 lev(children),long route(approx.1 hour)4 leva(adults)2leva (children).

    Dryanovski Monastery (Dryanovski Manastir) Dryanovo,tel. (+359)67675263. Situated5kmsouthwestof thetownof Dryanovo,hiddenamongthehighrocksof theDryanovskarivergorgelies thepicturesqueDryanovoMonastery.Establishedasearlyasthe12thcentury,themonasteryinitscurrentformdatesbackto1845 whenthe churchaswellas thetwo storeylivingquarterswerebuilt. Manywelllovedfreedomfightersfoundtheirlastrefugehereduringthe dramaticeventsinApril1876andit isprobablythis historicsignificanceandthebreathtakingscenerythatmakethiswellworthavisit.TheBachoKirocaveisjustashortwalkfromhere.Therearealso severaleco-trailsyoucanfollowfromhere,for exampletoBozhentsi.Foryoungonesthereisaropeparkjustbehindthemonasteryandtherearealsoacoupleofcafes andrestaurantsinthe area.Simpleaccommodationisavailableatthemonasteryinroomswith2or3beds.Q Everyday06:00-20:00

    Nicopolis ad Istrum Nikiup. Ruinsof a Romantown situatedapproximately20kmfromVelikoTurnovoontheroad toRusseand bestvisitedinSpring,SummerorAutumn.BuiltbyemperorTrajanatth ebeginningofthe 2ndcenturyB.C.afterhisvictoryovertheDacians,thetownflourishedunti l itwasdestroyedbytheHunsinthe5thcentury,thenrebuiltonly tobedestroyedagainat theendof the6thcentury.Atypicalexampleof Romantownplanning,thestreetscrossed atright anglesand

    followedthecardinalpoints.Mostof whatthereis tosee herearecolumnsandbitsofbuildingslyinginthelonggrass,themarblestatuesandother valuablefindshavingbeenremovedtomuseumsin SofiaandVelikoTurnovo.Youcanstillseethe odeon(smalltheatreandstage);theagora(the mainsquare)surroundedbycolumns;partsofthethermi (publicbaths),streetspavedwithenormousstoneblocksand remainsofa wastewaterandcentralheating system!QOpen09:00- 18:00April-October,10:00-16:00November-March

    Preobrazhenski Monastery (Preobrazhenski Manastir) near VelikoTurnovo. Ifyou enjoyhiking,then thePreobrazhenski(Transfiguration)Monastery,isa goodhourand ahalf hike(about7km) northof VelikoTurnovo.AlternativelyyoucangobycarortaxialongthemainroadtoRusse,turningoffafter6km.Originallydatingbacktothe14th century,thebeginningsof thepresentdaymonas-terydatebackto1825 andeventuallybroughttogethertwoof Bulgariasmostgiftedartisansfromthe Revivalperiod;KolyoFichetoandZahari Zograf.Mostremarkableamongthefrescoesisth edepictionofthewheelof lifeonthesouthernouterwallofthechurch.Set amongtheforests onthe hilloverlookingtheYantraGorge,onecanenjoythe tranquilityandbeautifulviews orlet themind wandertothose turbulentyearsinthe secondhalfof the19thcenturywhenmanyarevolutionary,includingVassilLevski,foundrefugehere.Q Freeadmission,donationswelcome.

    Childrens EntertainmentThere isnot much onoffer for kidsin Veliko Turnovo.The childrensplay-groundsin the parksare apparently set to be totally revampedandturnedinto lovely modernones,but for the meantime any childrenlookingforsomewhereto play willhave to make do with the brokenoldmetal equipment

    from30 or 40years ago.Theres a privately-runkids centre inthe Marno Poleparks ee Smeholandia below.Youcan also try out the swimmingpoolsinthetown.Smeholandia A-1, ul. MarnoPole 9G, tel. (+359) 62 650 842, www.smeholandia.com. Childrens party centre with indoor soft play areas forchildrenandtoddlers.In the summer there isa bouncy castle inthe parkin frontandseating for adultsat the adjoiningcafe.Youcan leave childrenonan hourlybasisto play in the soft-play area inside.English spoken.QOpen09:30- 20:00.4leva per hour. PJ

    CinemaCinema Arena ul.Oborishte18,CentralMall, www.kinoarena.com.Threemodern,comfy andair-conditionedcinema hallsinthe CentralMall.To checktheprogramme go to the English versionofthe site. QOpen10:00 - 00:30.Tickets

    from5-12 leva dependingonwheth er it isa newrelease. P

    Outdoor ActivitiesOutdoor activitiesinclude hikingand mountainbiking. There are hikingpathsthat start fromVeliko Turnovo anda particulalry goodone goesfrom the townto Arbanassivillage,allowingyou to take a lookat the sightsth ere too.ThereisanoutdooractivityareacalledKsil iforwhichissituatedabout3or4km

    fromVelikoTurnovoand whichis popularwith localsfor aweekendgetawayonhotdays.Childrencanplayintheplaygroundwithwoodenswingsandslides,thereisabarbecueareaandalake.Acafeofferssnacksanddrinks.Rockclimbing,abseiling(rapelling)downwaterfallsandecotrailsintheVelikoTurnovoareaforall levelscanbe arrangedbycalling(+359) 899871 688, [email protected] such as wakeboarding, ringos, water skiing can be had at theAlexander Stamboliiskireservoir approximately 40km fromVeliko Turnovo inthedirectionofSevlievo.Youwil lneedto bookyour sessionsinadvance. (+359)886321510, www.watersportsvelikoturnovo.com

    CyclingCyclingin Veliko Turnovo meansmountainbiking,as there isnot a flat pieceofground insight andmost ofthe roadsare interrible condition.There arehikingtracksandmountainbikingtracksinthe hil lsaroundthe town,whichyoucan findmore informationabout fromthe bike rentalshop.

    Gorgona Shop B-1,ul.Zelenka2, tel.(+359)62 601400.Thisis probablyyour best bet for cycling,climbingandcamping gear.QOpen10:00- 19:00,Sat10:00- 14:00.Closed Sun.Mountainbike rental10leva per day.

    SwimmingThere are two heatedindoor pools inthe largest hotels:Yantra andInterhotel,which are opento visitors.Price per day is10leva.ThePremierHotelhas anoutdoorrooftoppool andis againopentovisitors.Thereisalsoan outdoorswimmingpoolcomplexwithsunloungersandumbrellasattheHotelSvetaGoraon topofSvetaGorahill,accessedby carfromul.Magistralna,themainroadto Varna.Admission5leva.

    McNamara's Irish Pub is anIrish ownedpublocatedinthe center ofVeliko Tarnovo with a warm and friendlyatmosphere,our English speaking staffwillmake youfeela t home.We offer a wideselectionof drinksat competitive pricesandwe also have a tasty pubgrubmenuservedall day.

    Bul. Nezavisimost25, VelikoTarnovoTelephone:+359878 812 358www.mcnamarasirishpubvt.com

    Camping Veliko TarnovoNo.70,VasilLevskiStreet,Dragizhevo Village,5145Tel:+359(0)61942777Mobile : +359(0)886877 244email: [email protected]

    Openfrom1stMarchto31stOctober.45campingplaces.9-15pernight

    5 star facilities:bar, restaurant,outdoor pool,laundry,campers kitchen, family bathroom,free WiFiandarcher y range.

    P Air conditioning A Credit cardsaccepted

    E Live music S Take away

    T Childfriendly U Facilitiesfor the disabled

    G Non-smokingareas L Guardedparking

    R Internet 6 Animalfriendly

    Restaurants symbol key

    Hadji Nikoli Inn Cafe A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651291, www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The courtyardof the beautifully restoredinnisone ofthemost tranquilplacestos topofffor a coffee or a bite to eat.The cafe menuoffersaselectionoftasty sandwiches,pizzasanddesserts. QOpen08:00- 24:00.Coffeeinstyle for lessthan 2leva (cappuccino just over 2leva) alwaysaccompaniedbya tasty home-made biscuit. PA6IGBKXW

    Stratilat A-2, ul.Rakovski 11, tel. (+359) 62 635 313.At the beginningoftheoldsh oppingstreet(Samovodska Charshia)thisp opularcafeandpastr y shopislocated ina lovely oldbuildingwith a large outdoor seatingarea. Inside thereare severallevels facingan atrium.Try the deliciousiced coffee with chocolate.QOpen08:00 - 24:00.

    Vienna Cafe A-2,pl.Velchova Zavera,GrandHotel Yantra,www.yantrabg.com. Indoor cafe onthe groundfloor ofthe 4-star Yantra hotelservinghigh qualitypastriesandcakesmade inthe hotelaswellascoffee,a wide selectionofteasandlunchtime snacks.QOpen08:00 - 24:00. PGXW

    Fast FoodMcDonalds ul. Magistralna 17, tel. (+359) 888 611 805. McDonaldshasrecently come to Veliko Turnovo,though it isup onthe highway that passesthrough fromSofia to Varna,which is not particularly convenient for anyone basedinthe towncentre.QOpen07:00 - 24:00. PTABW

    Shtastlivetsa 1 A-2, ul.Stefan Stambolov79,tel.(+359)62 600656,www.shtastlive-ca.com. The generalconsensusis that it isoneof the better restaurantsin Veliko Turnovo and

    it isinvariably full.Situatedon the high street at the beginningofthe oldtownit offersoutdoor pavement dining,but inside the restaurant is splitontwolevels- smokingandnon-smoking-with spectacularviewsovertheAssenMonument.The menuis extensive,youwont have time to readitall. QOpen11:00 - 01:00.(5.90-25.90leva). PTJAGBXS

    Panorama Barbecue Restaurant A-2,ul.StefanStambolov53AHotelBolyarski,tel.(+359)62613200, www.bolyarski.com. Enjoy the splendidviews

    from the rooftop (15th floor) barbecue restaurant,which isparticularly pleasant ona summerseveningonce the sunhasgone down.Meat andvegetablesprepared ona charcoalgrill.Alternatively you can enjoy a coffee or drink throughout the day onthe quiet lobby terrace away from the busy street out front, or trythe gourmet restaurant on the lower floors. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.PTAULBW

    24-hour pharmacies,one onul. Nikola Gabrovski33 andthe other onul.VelikiPreslav 4.Out ofhours these pharmaciesserve froma hatch andyoumay have to ringa buzzer to get someonesattention.

    Mail & PhonesCentral Post Office (Tsentralna Poshta) B-1, ul. HristoBotev 1. Forpostinglettersuse theroomstraight aheadfrom the mainentrance.Phoneboothsare inthe roomto the left ofthe entrance,open from09:00-14:00 and14:30- 18:00onweekdaysandclosedat weekends.Faxescanalso be sent

    fromhere. QOpen07:30 - 19:00,Sat 08:00- 16:00.Closed Sun.

    The emergency

    telephone number is 112(all landline and mobile operators in Bulgaria)

    Design, layoutand maps: Flo GrafixLtd.

    Cover: Bulphoto Agency Lubomir Benkovski

    Copyrightnotice

    TextandphotoscopyrightInside&out 2011.

    Mapscopyrightcartographer.Allrightsreserved.

    Thebrandname InYourPocket isusedunder

    licensefromUABInYourPocket(Vokieciu10-15,

    Vilnius,Lithuaniatel.(+370-5)2122976).

    Editors note

    The editorialcontent ofInYour Pocketguides

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    basedonour personalexperience. We have

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    anderrors.www.inyourpocket.com

    EVENTS

    Annual eventsBalkan Folk Festival Veliko Turnovo. Authentic Bulgarian folk festivalwith participantsfromall aroundthe country.Held every year at the beginningofMay.

    Day of Veliko TurnovoProcessions,fireworks,Chinese lanternsmark theholiday ofVeliko Turnovo on22ndMarch.

    Sound and Light ShowAnaudio visualspectacle usingmusicandlight toevoke the dramaticandturbulent historiceventsaround Tsarevetsand the cityofTurnovo.Free showonallbank holidaysandth e Day ofVeliko Turnovo.Startsafter dark.For other viewingdates, the informationisvague andwe suggestyoucontact the local Tourist InformationCentre or check their website www.velikoturnovo.info.On these occasionsviewers pay to view(and hear)from aspecialviewingdeck.

    Summer Events16.07 Saturday - 30.07 Saturday

    XIV International Folklore FestivalAnnualEvent with participantsfromaroundth e world.

    29.07 Friday - 07.07 Thursday

    Stage of the Ages 2011Tsarevetsfortress.Celebrating120yearsof BulgarianOperawith theNationalOpera andBallet Sofia.Q Allshows start at 21:00Ticket prices:Seats 18leva, VIP seats45 leva

    01.08 Monday - 05.08 Friday

    European Climbing ChampionshipKsilifor area.

    Pizza Bianco Bar& Grill B-1,pl.MaikaBulgaria,tel.(+359)882552661,www.bianco-pizza.com.Open 24 hours a day, this pizzeria and grill enjoysa prime spot inth e city centre opposite the MaikaBulgaria (Mother Bulgaria)monument and tourist info

    centre.Situated inthe Military Club,it has a large coveredterrace andoffersa vast photo menu.A fullEnglish breakfast isavailable till11:00.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Take away service 11:00 - 23:30 (3.49-9.99leva). PJBXSW

    street ulitsa

    square ploshtad

    Howmuchdoes itcost? Kolko struva? ?

    Thankyou! Blagodarya! !

    Goodmorning Dobro utro

    Goodday Dobur den

    Goodbye Dovizhdane

    Basic vocabulary

  • 8/2/2019 Veliko Turnovo Pocket

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    ARRIVING & GETTING AROUNDINTRODUCING VELIKO TURNOVO

    VELIKOTURNOVO

    www.inyourpocket.com

    MapHotelsRestaurantsBarsSights

    2011Complimentarycopy

    MINI-GUIDE

    WHERE TO STAY

    Akatsia B-1Alexander Penchev B-1A l. S ta mb o li i sk i B -1 A ss en R us ko v B -1 Bacho Kiro C-1Boris Denev B-4

    B ra ti a Be l ch ev i B -1 Brat ia Mi lad inov i A -2Buzludzha A-1ChernorizetsHrabur C-4Chitalishtna B-2/3D imit ar Naidenov C-4

    Dondukov B-1 D r. P e ta r B er on A -4Dragoman A-1 Esperanto B-1Gagarin C-1 Geor g iK ir k ov,p l. B -2G ot se D el ch ev B -3

    GrigoriiTsamblak B/C-4

    Gurkho B/C-1Ha dj i Di mi ta r B- 1 H ri st o Bo te v B /C -1 Hr is t o D ask alov A-1 H ri st o I va no v B -3

    Hristo Karaminkov B-1Ivan Panov B-1 I va nVa zo v B- 2/3Ivanka Boteva B-2

    Ivaylo B-1Kap.Petko Voyvoda A-1Karadzha A-2Kipriyan C-4Kolyo Gaitandzhiyata A-1KonstantinKisimov B-1

    Kozloduy C-1Kraibrezhna B/C-2/3Ksiliforska A-3/4Ly ubenK ar avelov C-1 Maika Bulgaria,pl. B-1Marno Pole B/C-1

    M ar no P o le , pl . C -1 MaximRaykovich B-2/3Mednikarska A-1M ih ai l Ke fa lo v B -3Mitropolska A/B-3/4Nezavisimost A/B-1Nikola Pikolo B-2/3

    N ik ol a Z l at ar sk i A -2

    Opalchenska A/B-2O tets Pai sii C-1 Panay ot Angelov B-1 Panayot Tipografov A-2Patr iar ch Evtimi i A -3

    P et ar B o gd an ov B -3Pobornicheska A-2Pobor n ichesk i,p l . A -1 Pop Hari ton C-1

    R af ae l M ih ai l ov B -1 Ra kovski A/B-2Reservoarska A-2Sava Penev B-1 Sedmi yuli C-1 Sheinovo B-3

    Shipka A-2Silvestar B-2/3Slaveikov A-1 S la ve ik ov, p l. A -1 Slivnitsa B-4St.KlimentOhridskiA/B-4

    StsKiriliMethodi A-1/2StefanStambolov A/B-2TeodosiiTurnovski C-4Tsanko Tserkovski B-1Ts ar A ss en , pl . B -3TsarIvanAssenIIA/B-2/3TsarIvanShishman A-4

    Ts ar Ka lo ya n B- 1

    TsarTodorSvetoslavB/ C-1Tsarevets A-4V as si l Dr um ev A -4Va ss il Le vsk i B- 1 Vastanicheska A-2

    Velchova Zavera,pl. B-2Yantra A-2YordanIndzheto B-3Zelenka B-1

    STREET REGISTER

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    WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEEWHAT TO SEE

    Veliko Turnovo hasa surprisingly large number ofhotels for itssmall size,though consideringthe popularity ofTsarevets fortressp erhapsit isunder-standable.Most seemto fillup for the weekendsand it may evenbe difficultto get a roominyour hotelof choice,whereas duringthe weekthey are quieter.The most popular hotelsare inthe old townand there are some lovely quietlocationsoverlookingTsarevets.All inall ,thelevelofservice andfacil itiesonoffer are ofvery high quality.

    UpmarketGrandHotelYantraB-2,pl.VelchovaZavera,ul.Opalchenska2,tel.(+359)62600607,fax(+359)62606569,[email protected],www.yantrabg.com.POJHAUFGBKDXCW hhh hInterhotelVelikoTurnovo B-1,ul.AlexanderPenchev2,tel.(+359)62601000,www.interhotelvt.bg.PJAFGBKDXCW hhhhPanorama A-2,ul.StefanStambolov63,tel.(+359)62602600,[email protected],www.panorama-vt.bg.PTJHA6FGKDXCW hhhhPremier B-1, ul.SavaPenev 1, tel. (+359) 886056 565/(+359) 62 615555, www.hotelpremier-bg.com. PJULBKDCW hhhhRachev Bolyarski A-2, ul.StefanStambolov53A, tel. (+359) 62 613200,fax(+359) 62 603355, www.bolyarski.com. PHAFKDC hhhh

    Mid-rangeAkvaya Business Hotel ul. Liuben Karavelov 40, tel. (+359) 62 519200, fax (+359) 62 519 201, [email protected], www.akvaya.com.PHFLEBKDXCW hhhAlegro B-1, ul. Teodor Svetoslav15, tel. (+359) 62 602 332, fax(+359) 62602 333, [email protected], www.hotelalegro.com.PJAGBKXW hhhBoliari B-2, ul. Ivanka Boteva 2, tel. (+359) 62 606 002, [email protected], www.boliarihotel.com. PJ hhhCentral B-1, ul.Hadji Dimitar 17A, tel. (+359) 62 606096, fax (+359) 62606596, www.hotelcentral-bg.com.P hhhConcorde ul. TsankoTserkovski 14, tel. (+359) 62 602 211, fax (+359)62 602 222, [email protected], www.hotel-concorde-vt.com.PJHAFGKDW hhhFamily Hotel Silvestar B-3, ul. Silvestar 18, tel. (+359) 62 602 025,[email protected], www.fhsilvestar.com.PJLGBXW hhhGurko B-2, ul. Gurko 33, tel. (+359) 62 627 838, [email protected],www.hotel-gurko.com. PJBKW hhhKiev B-3, ul. VelchovaZavera 4, tel. (+359) 62 600 571/(+359) 0898549826.PJNX hhhLucky B-3,ul.NikolaPikolo3,tel.(+359)62651224,www.hotel-lucky.com.PJAW hhhMinotel Rashev B-3, ul. Nikola Pikolo 2, tel. (+359) 62 622 228, fax(+359) 62 622 227, [email protected], www.hotel-rashev.com.PJFGBKDXWReal B-1, ul. KolioGaitandzhiyata2, tel. (+359) 879357575, [email protected], www.hotelreal.eu.PW hhhStudio B-3,ul.TodorLefterov4,tel. (+359)62604010,[email protected], www.studiohotel-vt.com.PJBKWTarnavaB-3,ul.IvanVazov6,tel.(+359)62603862,www.hotel-tarnava.com.PW hhhTarnovo C-1, ul. MarnoPole 25, tel. (+359) 62 651199, [email protected], www.hoteltarnovo.com. PJHULKW hhhTsarevetsB-3, ul. Chitalishtna23, tel. (+359) 62 601885, fax (+359) 62605655, [email protected], www.tsarevetshotel.com. PJA hhh

    BudgetThere are quite a fewhostelsin the town,reflectingthe number ofbackpackersthat come through to see the sights.

    Hostel Mostel B-3, ul. Yordan Indzheto 10, tel. (+359) 897 859 359,[email protected], www.hostelmostel.com.NLow Costel Hostel B-1, ul. AssenRuskov 6, tel. (+359) 885726733,www.lowcostelhostel.com. NNomads Hostel A-2, ul. Gurko 27, tel. (+359) 62 603092/(+359) 886039705, [email protected], www.nomadshostel.com. JPhoenix Hostel A-1, ul.Hristo Daskalov 12, tel. (+359) 62 603 112/(+359)885973532,[email protected],www.phoenixhostel.com.IGW

    Veilko Turnovo is a small town, so everything you need to see is either withinwalking distance or a short taxi ride away.

    By BusConfusingly, there are two bus stations serving different routes. Buses toand from Sofia, Varna, Plovdiv and Russe run from the South (Yug) station,which is a 5-minute walk from the town centre, while buses to and from otherparts of Bulgaria stop at the Zapad (West) bus station, about 4 km from thetown centre. Coaches belonging to the private company ETAP stop outsidethe Etar hotel in the town centre.

    South Bus Station (Avtogara Yug) tel. (+359) 62 630 111.West Bus Station (Avtogara Zapad) tel. (+359) 62 640 908.

    By Car

    Veliko Turnovo is on the main road from Sofia to Varna at the Black Sea andyou would drive through the town on your way to or from either, just bypass-ing the town centre. You can drive right into the city centre. Parking is paidby the hour (currently 1 lev per hour), either by text message or voucher froman attendant, easy to spot in their reflective vests. If you dont pay for park-ing you will find your front left wheel clamped and will have to call to have itremoved. If you dont call for several hours, your car will be towed away.

    By TrainNot on the main Sofia-Varna line so those coming from either direction wouldget off in the town of Gorna Oryahovitsa and take a mini bus from in frontof the station or a taxi, which should cost around 10 leva and takes 10-15minutes. The train station in Veliko Turnovo serves the Plovdiv-Burgas lineand is just south of the city centre. Trains from Istanbul and Bucharest alsostop at this station.

    Dangers & AnnoyancesThe biggest danger here is probably falling off the precarious walls andtowers of Tsarevets fortress! A small town, Veliko Turnovo does not suffer

    from the usual scourges of big cities, but even so keep an eye on yourbelongings and exercise the usual caution walking around aloneat night.

    Beggars seems to come out at the weekends in order to catch the touristcrowds and will sit in front of the entrances to tourist sights, often with ababy in their arms. It is up to you whether you wish to give them money ornot, though be aware that the money is probably going into someone elsespocket.

    Take care crossing roads, as Bulgarian drivers are not known to stop atpedestrian crossings.

    The town has no public toilets - or no working ones at least - so if you feelthe need you will have to go into a cafe, restaurant or hotel, of which thereare plenty. Most will have a small dish outside the toilet with a sign askingyou to pay 20 or 50 stotinki for the service.

    TaxisTaxis in Bulgaria are all painted bright yellow and are usually branded toa particular company. They charge by the kilometre, with an initial fee ofanywhere up to 1 lev. A cap on the price per kilometre has recently been im-posed and will be around 60-70 stotinki daytime and slightly higher at night.Despite this, taxis are well known for ripping off tourists, either by improperlydisplayed prices which then turn out to be ten or twenty times higher or byclaiming their meter is not working and then demanding an outrageous feeat the end of the journey. The following taxi companies have been recom-mended as reliable in Veliko Turnovo:

    Inter Taxi - (+359) 62 630 063, mobile (+359) 889 992 900

    Euro Taxi - (+359) 62 633 633, mobile (+359) 887 633 633

    Alex OK - (+359) 62 616 16, mobile (+359) 887 861 616. Call and hang up,they will call you back.

    Themajor sightis Tsarevets,themedievalfortress andyouwouldneverbe forgivenifyoucamehere withoutvisitingit.Thereis moreto see,however,includingvariousmediaevalchurcheswith well-preserved

    frescoes(ifthatisyourthing),acoupleof decentmuseumsandthelovelycobbled streetsoftheoldtownwithhousesbuiltintothe rocks.The Samovod-skaCharshia (picturedright)thatstarts nearTsarevetsandleadstothe towncentreisl inedwithlovelylittle craftshopsandcafesaswellasafewlocalcraftspeopledemonstat-ingcopperwork,woodwork,weavingandtraditionalsweetmaking.

    GalleriesBoris Denev State Art Gallery (Hudozhestvena Galeria Boris Denev)B-2, Assenevtsi Park, tel. (+359) 62 638941. Avisit to thisar t gallery allowsyouto combine a briefoverviewof Bulgarianart over the past century anda halfwithadelightfulwalk acrosstheriver toenjoythe incomparableviewoftheh ousesofVeliko Turnovo stackedup one atopthe other onthe opposite hill.Situated next to the impressive Assens monument, the gallery occupies alovely buildingfrom the early 20th century.Inside, the collectionis fairly small,which makesit all the more manageable for those without much ofa clue aboutBulgarianart.There isaniconroom, severalcorridorswith etchingsand the maincollectionfeaturesviewsofVelikoTurnovoorhistoricaleventsthat tookplacehere

    by various20th century artists.A wonderfuluse ofcolour isapparent,particularlyinthe renditionsofthe houseson the hill,which youcansee fromhere simply bylookingout of the window. QOpen10:00-18:00.ClosedMon.3 leva (adults)1leva (childrenand students)3 leva (family ticket).Childrenunder 7 free ofcharge.Guidedtour inforeignlanguage 5 leva.Thursdays free ofcharge.

    Hadji Nikoli Art Gallery A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291.Onthethirdfloor ofHajiNikoli Innthe art gallery coverssixexhibitionhallsintwoseparatewingsandhosts exhibitionsevery monthfeaturingthe worksofcontem-porary Bulgarianartists.QOpen13:00-17:00. ClosedMon.

    LandmarksAssenova Mahala A-3/4. The neighbourhood(Mahala) ofth e Assenswaswhere the craftspeople livedin the flourishingmediaevalVeliko Turnovo.Runningalongside the Yantra river belowthe fortress, one canreach it in10 minutesby walkingdown the steepmainroad. At the beginningof the Mahala is the 40Martyrschurch andkeepingon the same sideof the river one comesacross theAssumptionchurch andSt.Peter and Paulchurch.If youcrossover the prettyVladishkiMost (Vladishkibridge)into the other halfof the neighbourhoodyoucanvisit the St.Dimitur church,wander aroundthe cobbledstreets andhave a drinkor snackinthe restaurant.Too hot inthe daytime, it couldbe a pleasant place fora strollof anevening,though to be honest there isnot much to see here unlessyouare a fanof churches.

    Maika Bulgaria (Pametnik Maika Bulgaria) B-1, pl. MaikaBulgaria.Inmemory ofth ose who perishedin the fight for Bulgariasliberationfrom theOttomanTurks,aneternalflame burnsin thecentre of the monument.MotherBulgaria kneelsat the top,holdingup the flagofvictory.

    The Assens Monument (Pametnik na Assenovtsi) B-2. Alandmarkthatcanbe seenfrom so many pointsin the townandfromevery cafe andrestaurantthathas aterraceoverhangingtheriver,this monumentwaserectedforthe 800thanniversaryofthecrowningof Turnovoas thecapitalof thesecondBulgarianstate

    Bulgariasoldcapital andthe site ofgreat historicalbattlesoccupies a dramatichillsidelocationwiththe Yantrariverwindingthroughit. Thewholetownis postcardpretty inany season,though springand autumnare the best for sightseeingasTurnovo is also one of the countryshottest placesin the summer andone ofthecoldest inwinter.

    The relatively wellpreserved mediaevalTsarevets fortress is the most visitedhistoricalsite in the country.There ismuch more to see inVeliko Turnovo thanTsarevets,however,andthose tourists who only swingby intheir air-conditionedcoachesto tickoffthisbox are missingthe laid-backatmosphere ofthis lovelytown.

    Be prepared to give your feet a good bashing and wear sensible shoes asyou explore the cobbled alleys and marvel at the houses built into the rocksoverhangingthe river.Be forewarnedth at there are little,if no,facilities for thedisabled.

    The city has beeninhabited since the 3rdmillenium B.C.,remains havingbeenfoundon the nowovergrownTrapezitsa hil l .Thraciantribeslivedon Tsarevetshil l inthe Bronze andIron agesbut the Romanspreferrednearby NicopolisadIstrumwith its hot springs.The townsgoldenage came with the declarationofindependencefromtheByzantineempirein 1185bythe localBoliar(anaristocratictitle) brothers Ivan Assen and Peter in Veliko Turnovo. They subsequentlyconducteda two-year battle with the empire to secure Bulgariasfreedomand in1187 the SecondBulgarianKingdomwas born,with itscapitalTurnovgrad(VelikoTurnovo),andthe brothers became Tsars.They are referredto asthe Assens,togetherwitha thirdbrother,Kaloyan,who tookoveraf tertheirdeaths. ThefourthAssenisIvanAssenII,the sonofIvanAssen,who ruledfrom1218to 1241andbrought the Kingdomto newheights, conqueringneighbouring landsth at gaveit accessnot only to the BlackSea but also to the Aegeanand Adriaticseas. Anunconquerable fortressfromthe 12th to 14th centuries,Turnovgradenjoyed aneconomicand culturalapogee.

    The city wasbuilt onthree hills:Tsarevets,Trapezitsa andSveta Gora.Tsarevets

    andTrapezitsa formedan innner citysurroundedby impenetrable walls,wheretheroyal palace,residence ofthe Patriarch (headof the church)andmany placesof worship were located, as well as the grand mansions of the high-rankingaristocracy,while anouter city,also fortified,spreaddown to Assenova Mahalaby the river where the craftsmenlivedand the neighbourhoodofforeign traders.Only the poorest people livedoutside the walls.The SecondBulgarian Kingdomcame to anendin1393 whenTurnovgradfell to the OttomanTurktroops after athreemonthseigeand sobeganalmost 500yearsof cultural,spiritualandpoliticalstagnationuntilthe National Revivalmovement beganto awakenthe Bulgarianssenseof nationalpride asthe OttomanEmpiresstrength waned.The liberationofBulgaria in1877 againplaced Turnovo at the centre ofpoliticallife. Asthe newcapitalcity it wasthe place where the first Bulgarianconstitutionwas written,the

    first GreatNational Assembly tookplace andPrince Alexander Battenbergwaselected headofstate.It cededitstitle ofcapitalto Sofia in1879.

    The name Turnovo isbelievedto come fromthe Slavicword trun,meaningthorn,though other theories linkit to the romanword for fortress.The wordVeliko,meaninggreat,was officially only addedin 1966.

    (1185-1393).ThemonumentdepictsthefourBulgarianTsarsAssen,Peter,KaloyanandIvan Assenon horsebackand commemoratestheir achievement inturningVeliko Turnovo into the great city it once was.A walkover the Stambolovbridge(built in1892)to the monument iswellrewarded by the viewthat one receivesonthe other side ofthe housesof oldTurnovo stackedone atopthe other onthehillside opposite.It isa shame the monument isnot lit upat night,andplans areafoot to do precisely that.

    Main SightsSamovodska Charshia A-2/B-2,pl.SamovodskaCharshia/ul.Rakovski.SamovodskaCharshia(market)squareiswherethe peopleofnearbySamovodenevillagecametoselltheirhome-grownproduceinthesecondhalf ofthe19th century.ThemarketplaceflourishedandspreaddownthequaintandcobbledRakovskistreet,encompassingvariousinns(HadjiNikolisinn,built1858,isstilltheretoday),bakeriesandpastryshopsandtraditionalcraftworkshops.Thewholeareaunderwentseriousrestorationinthemid 1980storecreatethe bustlingmarketplaceoftheearly 20thcentury.Inamongthebeautifullyrenovatedhousesfromthepre-andpost-liberationperiodthe visitorcanfind workshopsforpottery, weapons,copperworking,woodcarving,weaving,iconpainting,Turkishsweetsanda bakery.

    Tsarevets B-4. Without a doubt the highlight attractionof the city.With onlypedestrianaccessonecan peacefullywanderaroundtheancientruins,walkalongthebreathtakingfortress walls(ifyou dontsufferfromvertigo)with viewsontothesurroundinghillsofSvetaGora, MominaKrepostandthe overgrownTrapezitsa,atthe foot ofwhich is the picturesque oldartisansquarter ofAssenova Mahala.Themainsitesof thefortressareclearlyidentifiedand thevisitorcanfollowa gentlepatharound.Childrenarefreetorun,clamberanddiscover,theonlyplacewherecautionisadvisedisat ExecutionRockatthe northernendofthefortress.Asthenamesuggestsafall fromheredownto theYantraRiverwouldbenothingless than

    fatal.Pastthepalaceruinsonecomesto thetopof thehillwhereoncethe Patriarchscomplexstood.The restoredpatriarchalchurchof theAscensiontakes visitorsbysurprisewith itsstark moderninteriorand thedramaticmurals paintedby TeofanSokerov(hisselfportrait isto therightof thealtar)in 1985.Nottoeveryonestaste,

    theydepictthehistoryofBulgariafromtheSecondBulgarianKingdomonwards(1185)andonthe flooris asymbolictombstonewiththe namesofthe BulgarianKings.Foranadditionalfee(Adults2leva,childrenfree)youcantakethe scenicelevatorupthebelltowerof thechurchto geta panoramicviewofthe surroundingarea.Beforeleavingthe fortressor continuingdown toBaldwinstower,there isthe op-portunityfora refreshmentstopat thecaf,away fromthe trafficofthe mainroad,toabsorballonehas seenorto justrestthefeet.Youwil lalsofindacceptabletoiletfacilitieshere. Childrenmightbe entertainedbya puppetshow givingsomepre-recordedhistory aboutTsar Kaloyan(youngerbrotherto Peterand Assen)invariouslanguagesorthey canpose forphotos dressedup inmediaevalcostume.There isnot much shade onTsarevets so duringthe summer months it isbestto avoidthe midday heat.The fascinatinghistory ofthe fortress isdramatized ina spectacular sound(not narrative)andcolouredlight show,which takesplace atnight onpublicholidays andon the holiday ofVeliko Turnovo (March 22).Q 8:00-19:00 April-October;9:00 -17:00 November-March.Lastadmission45minutespriortoclosing.Standardmuseumadmissionfee.Theticketofficeis situatedalittle offsidefromthe mainentrancetothe fortress.

    MuseumsInthe region ofVeliko Turnovo andArbanassithere are over 20museumsrunby the RegionalMuseumof History Veliko Turnovo.Some are ofmajorsignificanceand shouldnot be missed,others have beenneglectedor paleincomparison to Sofiasmain museumsand othersagain are really just amatter ofp ersonaltaste andpreference.Admissionto each museumis 6leva

    per adult,so usually by the secondor thirdmuseum enthusiasmwanes asth eexpense increases.This year some newpasses have beenintroduced, whichmakeit much more attractive to explore andinvestigate.Itis worthbearinginmindthatmanyexhibitsstilldonot havedescriptionsinEnglish.

    Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski Muzei) B-2, ul.IvankaBo-teva2. Adjacent to the museumof BulgarianRevivaland constituent Assembly,the ArcheologicalMuseumtracesth e development ofthe regionfromprehistorictimesviaAntiquity tothe MiddleAges.Theundoubtedhighlight isoneof theoldestgoldtreasures inthe world - fromHotnitsa inth e vicinity of Veliko Turnovo - dat-ingfrom 4100B.C. The treasure comprisesa necklace made upof goldrings,abracelet and4 anthropomorphicamulets.Th e Bulgariancivilisationfromth e 5thmilleniumB.C.,fromwhich goldtreasureshave also beenfoundin Varna,isconsid-eredby scholarsto predate eventhe Egyptianand Sumeriancivilisations.Thereisalso aninteresting collectionof Romanclay objectsfrom archeologicaldigsatnearby Nicopolisad Istrum andth e Romanfort Novae on the Danube. QOpen09:00-18:00April-October 09:00-17:30November-March.Closed Mon.Standardmuseumadmissionfee.

    Museum in the Hadji Nikoli Inn (Muzei Han Hadzhi Nikoli) A-2,ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291, www.hanhadjinikoli.com. TheHadjiNikoliInn,which wasbuilt in 1858by the master builder Kolyo Ficheto for thewellknownTurnovo tradesman,HadjiNikoli,isa splendid example ofthe BulgarianRevivalperiod.The recently restoredand renovatedbuildingwona specialawardinthe Buildingofth e Year 2010contest andisthe only one of70 innsthat werebuilt inthe city to have survivedto the present day.On the secondfloor there aretwo wingsof exhibitionspace where visitorscan enjoy specialexhibitions onloan

    from Bulgarian museums. QOpen 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Admission5 leva(adults)2leva(childrenandstudents)3levaper person(Groups5+)

    Museum of the Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly (MuzeiVuzrazhdane i Uchreditelno Subranie) B-2, pl.Saedinenie 1. On10thFebruary1879the constituentNationalAssemblyof theThird BulgarianStatewasheldin the Konak(Turkish townhall), which since 1985 ishome to the Museumof

    BulgarianRevivaland Constituent Assembly.The magnificent roominwhich theassembly tookplace is one ofthe highlights, although currently it isundergoingrenovationandis closedto the public.If youask nicely the wardenwillallowyou aglimpse intothe room.Other exhibitionareas are dedicatedto the developmentoficon painting,the regionalstruggle for liberationfrom the Ottomanempire andthe economicdevelopment ofthe regionduring the Revivalperiod.Unfortunatelynot everythingislabelled inEnglish andit really dependsonyour interest inthesesubjectsasto howlongyouwish to spendinthe museum.Q 09:00-18:00April-October,09:00-17:30November-March.Lastadmission30minutespriorto closing.ClosedTue 09:00-12:00.Standardmuseum admissionfee.

    Prison Museum (Muzei na Zatvora) B-2, pl. Suedinenie 1. This littlemuseuminthe museumcomplexallowsyouto lookaroundthe townsprison thatwasusedfromthe timesofthe OttomanTurksright through the 20th centuryuntil1954.Prisonerswere heldinthe two storeysbelowgroundlevel,sleepingonhard woodenbenches andtaken downto the dungeonsto be systematicallytortured.Primarily politicalprisoners, they were torturedby the Ottoman guardsusinga variety ofgruesome methods that are described(unfortunately only inBulgarian)andillustratedin some detail.Particularly alarmingis the fact that theywere beatenwith the headsof other prisonerswho hadalready beenexecuted.Upstairsonecan seethe spartansolitary confinementcells,nobiggerthan atoiletcubicle,whereprisonerswereheld inthe20th century.Ticketsarepurchasedfromthe Museumof Recent History next door.QOpen09:00-17:30.Closed Mon,Sun.Standardmuseumadmission fee.

    Sarafkina Kushta (House) B-2, ul.Gurko 88. Built in1861 asthe homeandbusiness premisesfor the wealthy money lender (Saraf inBulgarian), thisamazingfive storey buildinghas a most resilient history,withstanding both theconstructionofthe railwaytunnelbelowitand the1913earth quakethatdestroyedso much ofTurnovo.Today,havingretained itsoriginal featuresanddecor, it actsasan ethnographicmuseumand the exhibitsth at canbe seeninside give someinsight not only into Bulgariantraditionsin generalbut also typicalfor this region.One roomisdedicated to jewellery,another to costumesand yet another showsexamplesof ritualbreads, paintedeggs anda symbolicclay raft with a figurineonit, which isset afloat inthe river aspart ofa ritual for rain.The upper floor isdedicatedto a photographichistoricrecordofthe townanditspeople.QOpen09:00-18:00.ClosedMon, Sun.Open09:00-18:00April-October.Open09:00-17:30November-March.Lastadmission30minutes priortoclosingtime. Standardmuseumadmissionfee.

    Religious Buildings40HolyMartyrs Church(TsurkvaSvetiChetirisetMuchenitsi)A-4,AssenovaMahala.Nestleddownintheriver valley,immediatelybelowTsarevets,thechurchcanbereachedonfootin15or20minutesfromtheoldtownorTsarevets.TheprettylittlemediaevalchurchisnotatallimposinginappearanceandyetitwasherethatPrince FerdinandI declaredtheindependenceofBulgariafromOttomanruleonSeptember221908 andbecameTsar.Thechurchwas badlydamagedin1913byan earthquakeandhasonlyrecentlybeenrestored.The mediaevaltsarsKaloyan,IvanAssenII,MihailShishman,TsaritsaAnnaMariaandTsaritsaIrina,andSaintSavaofSerbiaare allburiedhere.QOpen09:30-18:00.

    Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Tsurkva Sveti Sveti Peter iPavel) A-4, Assenova Mahala. Much ofthis church wasalso destroyedinthe 1913earthquake.Untilth enit hadbeen one ofTurnovoslongest servingchurches.Today it has beenpartially restoredand visitors cansee remainsofthe originalfrescoes fromthree separate eras.A protective outer layer hasbeenadded to preserve the delicate frescoes.The six different columnswerebrought fromthe previousBulgariancapitalsof Pliska andPreslav.It wasbuiltduringthe reignof Tsar Kaloyanwho in1204 signeda unionwith the RomanPope givinghim the title of Tsar andh eadof the Bulgarianchurch. Q Open09:00-18:00April-October.Closed Wed09:00-12:00. November-March uponrequest.Standardmuseum admissionfee.

    Nativity of Saint Mary Cathedral (Patriarsheski Hram Sveti Vuz-nesenie Gospodne) B-3, ul. IvanVazov. Not so much a sight asa place tohaveaquite momentofcontemplationwhilesightseeing.The interiorhassomedamagetothefrescoesbut theceilingisbeautifullypainted.Youcanbuyacandleandlight it at any ofthe icons.Servicesare heldonSundaysfrom 09:00-11:00,

    followedby weddingsand baptisms.QOpen08:00-19:00.

    St Dimitur Church (Tsurkva Sveti Dimitur Solunski)A-3, AssenovaMahala. Though there isnot much to see inside thismediaeval church apart

    frombare stone wallsanda fewfragments offrescoes, it isworth a mentionasa landmarkandcult buildingdue to itsplace inBulgarianhistory. The churchs

    constructionwas financedby artistocraticbrothers Assenand Peter who,atits consecrationin 1185,declared independence fromth e Byzantine empire(a big thingafter nearly two centuriesof suppression)and subsequently leda war to secure Bulgariasliberty, which resultedin them beingcrowned asTsars.The church islocated inthe Assenova Mahala downby the Yantra riverbelowTsarevets.QOpen09:00-18:00April-October.ClosedWed09:00-12:00.November-March uponrequest.Standard museumadmissionfee.

    When dialling locally, the country code (+359)

    must be replaced with a 0.

    Adults 6 leva, Students 2 leva, Children under 7 - free

    2 day individual ticket - admission to 10 sights - 20 leva

    2 day family ticket - up to 3 children - 10 sights - 30 leva

    Free admission the last Thursday of the month

    Amateur photography 5 leva

    Guide services in a foreign language 20 - 30 leva

    For more information: www.museumvt.com

    Standard museum admission fee

    Youcan hardly missthe tourist informationcentre, situatedright inthe towncentreat the mainsquare. A purpose-built one-storey construction,it iswell mannedby 4or 5helpfulstaf fand hass ome free informationbrochuresto giveaway as wellasa selectionofguides,mapsandpostcards for sale.They canalso take bookingsforhotels,car rental,excursions,guidedtours andthe towns

    famedSoundandLightshow.TouristInformationCentreVeliko Turnovo,ul. Hristo Botev5tel.(+359)62622148www.velikoturnovo.infoOpen:April - OctoberMonday- Friday9:00to18:00 SaturdayandSunday10:00to17:00.November-MarchMonday - Friday 9:00to 18:00 Saturday andSunday closed.

    Tourist information

    P Air conditioning A Credit cardsaccepted

    O Casino H Conference facilities

    T Childfriendly U Facilitiesfor the disabled

    R Internet L Guardedparking

    F Fitnesscentre G Non-smokingrooms

    K Restaurant M Nearest metro station

    D Sauna C Swimmingpool

    6 Animalfriendly W Wi-Ficonnection

    Hotels symbol key


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