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Textile Spinning to Textile Spinning to Finishing Process.Finishing Process.
M.Tauqeer –
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Cotton Silk
Linen
Wool
Viscose
Polyester
Lycra
NylonAcrylic
Basic Fibers
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Fiber typesClassification based on physical nature
• Staple fibers– Cotton, Wool, Linen, VR, PSF
• Filaments– Silk, PFY, VR– Micro deniers
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Staple Fiber & Filaments
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Fiber Properties
Wool- Comfortable, Good to feel, Versatile, Lightweight, Good insulator, Wrinkle-resistant, Absorbent, Durable(Like TWEED).
Cotton- Comfortable, Breathable, Machine-washable, dry-cleanable, Good strength, Drapes well, Soft hand, Absorbent, Wrinkle.
Silk- Soft & Crisp hand, Luxurious & Drapes well, Thinnest of all natural fibers, Hand-washable or dry-cleanable, Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight
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Fiber Properties .. contd
Polynosic - Drapes well, Excellent luster, Breathable, Can be dyed in bright colors, Characteristic: Hazy appearance.
Polyester - Strong, Crisp, soft hand, Resistant to stretching and shrinkage, Washable or dry-cleanable, Quick drying, Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set), Easy care.
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Woven Fabric Manufacturing Cotton system
Spinning Yarn
WeavingGreige fabric
Wet ProcessingFinished fabric
Inspection Packed fabric
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Spinning
Plucking & Cleaning Blow room Carding Combing Draw frame Simplex Ring frame Yarn
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Plucking.
At this stage cotton bales are manually opened and are put in Pluckers are machines which mix the cotton and separate the bales into smaller denominations. The separated cotton is then transferred into the Blow Room.
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Blow Room
The Blow Room is a facility, which is primarily used for the Cleaning, Mixing and Opening of cotton for yarn production. Cotton is processed through various stages in this area through different machines and the main objective is to refine the cotton being used in yarn production.
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Carding Department
The main function of this department is to transform the cotton into Sliver. The main objective here is to maintain the uniformity, alignment and stretch ability of the fiber as per the desired standards
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Combing
The main function of this department is to transform the cotton Sliver in to more fine and inject the raw material and also putting short fiber to get more longer fiber for durability.
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Draw Frame
The function of the Draw Frame is to create a roving consistent in size over its entire length. The draw frame blends multiple roving into one fiber.
The draw frame results in strong, uniform roving of a size that can be easily managed at the spinner
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Simplex
Simplex is the process of shaping the Sliver into Roving. The main processes involved are Grafting, Twisting and Winding the sliver and shaping it like a thin rope.
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Ring frame
This is function where the yarn is finally produced. The Roving are put on the machines used here and passing the roving through the machine produces yarns. The main objective of the machines here is again Grafting, Twisting and Winding. Once the cotton thread is produced it is collected in the form of Bobbin.
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Spinning Laboratory
The second important section of the spinning facility is the Test Laboratory which is mainly responsible for the inspection and testing of the cotton samples and monitoring
Yarn Count Yarn Strength Sliver Test Check Machinery Faults
etc.
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Yarn types & Characteristics Spun - carded, combed Long staple spng - Worsted, Spun Silk Filament - Mono & Multifilament Doubled yarn - single & 2-ply
Stronger, Uniform, blending
Yarn twist - S & Z, TPI, High Twist, Knit yarns.
Stretch yarns - Lycra, Mechanical Slub Yarns, Lurex
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Yarn Finishes
Singeing = Singing is the process of removing the uneven fibers
Mercerizing = The treatment caused the fibers to swell, the process shrunk the overall fabric size and made it stronger and easier
to dye. Bleaching, Dyeing Synthetics
Texturising Anti Static
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Blending
Fiber blending can be carried out at all the foll stages of fabric manufacturing :
at Spinning at Doubling at Weaving
Advantages - To get the best properties of both Natural and Synthetic fibers.
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PolyesterCotton
Polyester Cotton
67%33%
Material-Blending
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Chief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton Rich
Polyester (40%)+Cotton(60%) Cotton
•Comfort, Soft handle Polyester
• Crease resistance, Easy care
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Polyester Cotton (PC)
Polyester (67%) and Cotton (33%) Cotton
•comfortable to wear •greater strength
Polyester
•Resistance from creases, Quick dry, ETI
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Yarn numbering systems
Indirect system Ne - English Count (Cotton, P/V) 140s,
120s, 100s, 80s, 60s, 50s, 40s, 30s, 20s, 16s, 14s, 12s, 10s, 9s, 6s, 1s
Nm - New Metric (P/W Worsted) Direct system
Tex - Universal system Denier (All filament yarns) 22D, 44D, 75D,
150D, 300D Fine & Coarse yarns - Handle, Luster,
Uniformity, Dye Uptake, Drape
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Doubled yarns
2 ply 2/80s = 40s equivalent
3 ply 3/60s = 20s equivalent
Advantages - Stronger & Durable Improved Hand feel, Cleaner look, Luster Reduced tendency to pill, abrasion resistance
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Weaves
Fabric
Finishes
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Weaving
Interlacement of Warp & Weft on Loom Preparation for weaving Warping, Sectional Warping Sizing Warp beam preparation Gaiting & Doffing
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Warp n Weft
Yarn on 2 sides of Fabric end Warp (Vertical)
Weft (Horizontal)
pick
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Fabric-Weave representation.
Weft yarns(Red)
Warp yarns(Blue)
Selvage(Yellow)
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Fabric Construction
Blend ratio - C/P 60/40
Count - 2/40s Ne x 2/20s Ne
Construction (epi x ppi) - 130x60 (fin.)
Weave - 3/1 RHT
Weight - 270 GSM
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Fabric-Weaves
The most commonly used weaves are : Plain weave - Poplin, Tussore
•Hopsack, Matte weave•Oxfords - PPO, Classical
Twill weave
•Herringbone, Chino, Gabardine, RHT, LHT
Satin/Sateen Other - Mock leno, Honeycomb, Dobbies,
Jacquards, Pique, Corduroy, Double Cloth Non-Woven
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Plain weave - Max no. of interlacements
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Types of Twill weave- Diagonal patterns on surface
Twill (LHT) Herringbone (Broken Twill)
Gabardine
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Matte Weave Also known as BASKET WEAVE It’s a variation of plain weave. Uses doubled yarn to produce a basket like
design on the face of the fabric
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Chambray
Gives a two tone look Used in : All types of garments
History : Named after Chambray province in France
Colour Warp Yarn
White Weft Yarn
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Fil-a-Fil
Gives two tone look Used in : All types of garments
Alternate Colour & White Warp Yarn
White Weft Yarn
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Oxford
Matt feel fabric
1.Classical (Larger heads) 40sx2/30s
2. PPO (Small heads), 2/80sx2/80s
Used in :Shirts - light weights Trousers - heavy weights
Benefit :Hard wearing History :Popularized in the US, as proper executive
wear by Brooks Brother’s
Classical PPO
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Corduroy
Used in : Bottom wear and outerwear Benefit : Hardwearing fabric for outdoor wear
Warmth providing fabric History : Named after Corde Du Roi,
French for - Cloth of King
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Denim
Twill Chambray - Indigo dyed Warp & Undyed Weft Used in: Jeans - heavy weights
Outerwear - heavy weight Shirts / Tops - light weight
Benefit: Hard wearing
Trendy History: Named after a place in France called Diemes.
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What You Need To Know About Trousers
Finishes
Fabric
Weaves
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Wet Processing
Desizing Scouring, Singeing Bleaching Mercerising Padding & development - types of Dyes Stenter & Finishing Calendaring, Peaching, etc
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Types of Dyeing
Top dyeing - P/V, Melanges
Yarn dyeing - Beam Dyeing - Denims
Fabric dyeing – Piece dye, Cross dye Dispels Dye for CVC fabrics Reactive Dye Sulfur Dye ( blocked due to Azo free)
Garment dyeing Printing - Block, Screen, Rotary, Flocking, Burn outs,
Laser
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Finishing : Chemical & Mechanical
Softener Enzyme Micro sanding, Peaching Resin, ETI, Non-iron Stain repellent / Soil release Anti Bacterial Absorbent / Quick dry Denim washes - Bleach, Stone, Acid, Sandblasting Anti-static, Flame retardant
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Fabric Properties - tech analysis for testing performance
Count, Construction, GSM, Blend %, TPI Pilling Tear & Tensile strength Shrinkage % Color fastness - Wash, Light, Rub, Wet Alkali
in both dry & wet conditions Iron ability,
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Washes and Finishes
WashesA process by which finished garments are put
into huge washers and treated with chemicals to get the required effect.
Garments are washed to influence: • Physical properties like:softness, drape,absorbency
and creasing• The appearance of fabric by changing the colour or
luster• Shrinkage
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PrintingPrinting
Pigment Printing. Pigment printing include the application of pigment dyes on the surface of the fabric. These dyes form a thin film on the surface of the fabric. The fixation of the dyes is then done through curing.
Reactive Printing. Reactive dyes react with the fibers of the fabric, once applied to give the desired shades. The fabric is then dried and washed so the dyes are fixed and the unfixed dyes are removed
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