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knife techniquesfor the the unwieldy and inexperienced!
SUPER EASYD in ing Out
iSSuE no.1 winter 2011$12 USD
WHAT'Sin a
GRAiN
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Welcom
e
to the fi
rst is
sue o
f Smidg
en!
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EASY Seriously, the Easiest Italian Sub You've Ever Made...
FAST Bacon Quesadilla
FYI Dining Out: Why Eating In is Better for You
DEFINE Tapas
TECHNIQUE Super Easy Knife Techniques for the Unwieldy and Inexperienced...
MUSHROOMS
COLLECTIVE Submissions from Readers and Eaters
Fungi Facts
The Classic, The Versatile, the Easy: Mushroom Sauce
Shiitake: You Don't Know Shiitake
Crimini: When I Grow Up I Want to be a Portobello
Portobello: The Giant
MADE FROM SCRATCH The Hand-painted Restaurant Signs
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TOOLS The Most Essential Cooking Tool14
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MEAT COURSE Know Your Beef22
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COMPARE What's in a Grain13
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tECHnIQUES
knife techniquesfor the the unwieldy and inexperienced!
SUPER EASYKnife skills and techniques are about much more than
simply getting the food small enough to fit in the pot.
Having the proper knife techniques creates consistency
within a dish providing aesthetic charm, but more im-
portantly allowing a uniform cooking time for ingredi-
ents. With poorly chopped ingredients the dish will
look sloppy and pieces of food may be overcooked while
others are undercooked. The size and consistency of
the cut can even affect flavor and texture. While a fine
chop will cook very quickly and the textures will gener-
ally fade, a fine chop more quickly pulls out the flavors
of the ingredient such as a fruit or vegetable. On the
other hand, a more coarse chop is better suited to main-
tain the integrity of the textural elements on an ingredi
ent but the flavor components become harder to extract.
In any case, no single slicing or chopping size is perf-
ect for all occasions, so it is very important to have
a good knowledge base of how to achieve both fine and
coarse cuts and anywhere in between with proper
knife handling technique.
SLICEthe
to cUt wIth a long pUllIng StrokE
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CHoPthe
pAREthe
foRwaRd cUttinG motIon In whICh tHE EntIrE length of tHE blAdE ComES In
contact wItH tHE board
to trim or rEdUcE In SizE
REmEmbER: a SHarp kNIfe iS A safe knifE.dUll knivEs ReQUIRe moRe stRAIN and thuS, moRe aCCIdEnts.
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To get started, holding a knife is the most basic of basics.
The hand gripping the knife should be high on the handle
with your thumb resting parallel to the blade, your index
finger curled on the opposite side of the blade and your
remaining fingers wrapped around the handle. A picture
explains this better than a paragraph of text, but what is
important about using this grip is the following: Good
chef knives are balanced around the typical knife grip.
Therefore, gripping the knife in this way gives you more
control over the blade and a higher degree of precision
even if it takes a little getting used to at first. The knife
should become an extension of your arm and hand so
the better the grip is balanced, the more naturally you
will be able to control it.
So now that we have the grip down let's move on to the
fun stuff. Different ingredients require different chopping
techniques. However, some general principles apply to
nearly any food item you chose to work with. Generally, use
the first third of the blade nearest to the tip for small work
while using the thick section of the knife for more forceful
cutting. Another important thing to remember this that
knives cut best when moving in two dimensions; meaning
the knife should move forward or backward as it is moving
downward. Doing so will result in easier and smoother
cutting. Move the knife in a see-saw rather motion than
going straight up and down as you cut through ingredients.
Keep your off-hand fingers curled under your knuckles
and out of the way and keep the food held in place firmly.
With some of these basics mastered, we can work on
some various methods of breaking down specific ingredients.
For example, in the case of celery, if attempting to achieve
a fine chop for use as a soup or stock base, first remove the
inedible sections, then split down the stalk to form smaller
ribs of equal size and finally chop all of the thinner ribs at
the same time to get uniform slices or smallish cubes of
celery that will quickly soften and release flavor. A similar
technique can be used for a variety of long, thin ingredients,
especially if they would otherwise be awkward to breakdown
while whole. Varying the size of the lengthwise and cross-
wise cuts can provide a range of useful but unique attributes
to control cooking evenness and flavor profile.
Slicing and chopping are really two sides of the same
coin. The major difference is that slicing usually refers to
thin pieces with a relatively larger surface area whereas a
chop is in the form of small cubes or bits.
One of the items that is fun to slice up is bell pepper which
has a tricky but fun method to break it down. Start by cutting
off the ends of the pepper. Next, make a lengthwise cut
just to get the knife inside and begin carefully working the
knife around the inside cavity of the pepper to separate the
seed pod from the ripe flesh of the bell pepper. Then, simply
remove the seed pod, flattened out the bell pepper and
begin making thin, uniform slices ensuring that you cut
all the way through the skin if the pepper.
The classic ingredient to chop or slice is an onion.
There are multiple ways of tackling a chopped onion but a
generally accept method is to cut in half leaving half of
the root on each piece, cut off the end opposite the root and
remove the outer skin. Next make a few straight up and
down cuts on the onion half with the end of the knife while
holding the root end, make a couple horizontal cuts going
through most of the onion, and finally turn the onion side-
wise and begin chopping to form small chunks of approxi-
mately even size.
Other ingredients require much less effort to slice or
chop and may be sliced or chopped without much altering
of the natural state of the ingredient. The important thing
is to remove any inedible parts of the item and get it into a
state that is easy to stabilize and achieve uniform sized pieces
in length and thickness. With just a little patience and practice
you can master every kind of cut imaginable bringing better
flavor and more elegance to all of your dishes.
tECHnIQUES
"SliCinG and cHoPping aRE rEally two SidES of tHE SAmE CoIN."
(the proper way to hold a chef's knife)
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faSt
L D
3 strips of bacon
1 Tbsp butter
1 flour tortilla
1/2 cup of shredded mexican cheese
1 small onion (opional)
� Fry up some bacon in a pan
� If you like onions, dice up the onion very finely and cook the onion
in the bacon fat on medium heat for just a couple minutes. The
should turn transluscent. If you don't like onions, simply discard
the bacon grease.
� In a non stick pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Place the
tortilla in the pan. While it is warming, sprinkle the cheese over
the tortilla and let it melt. Be sure to scrape off any pesky pieces
of cheese that may have wandered directly onto the pan. We don't
want that to burn.
� Gingerly place the bacon on one side of the torilla. If you prefer,
you can dice the bacon into little bits to make eating a bit easier.
(But it's bacon so, no matter how you eat it, it's gonna' be good).
� Fold the tortilla in half and then flip the whole thing over.
� Let it cook for just about a minute longer and you're done!
� Slice it up and serve with sour cream and/or guacamole.
SB
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D in ing OutWhy Eating In is Better For You
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Save money Over time I’ve learned to approximate
our favorite restaurant foods, so when I
am craving Indian food, Olive Garden
breadsticks or something else, I can make
it myself for a fraction of the cost. As an
added bonus, I’ve also found that many
other cultures base their food on seas-
onal produce, so I’m often able to make
us a great international meal for much
less than an order of fast food.
Be creativeI’m not afraid to try new things. Because
we’re on a budget I can’t always follow
recipes (especially for ethnic foods) exactly,
but over time, I’ve found creative ways
to substitute cheap ingredients for rare
or expensive ones. Extemporaneous and
flexible cooking is a great creative outlet.
NutritionWhen I make a recipe, I have a much
better sense of what I am eating than I
do when I eat out. At restaurants and
drive-thrus, it can be hard to gauge the
nutritional value of a food, or even
figure out what’s in it. In my kitchen, I
can make just about any meal healthier.
After a long day spent juggling the tasks of a busy lifestyle, it’s tempting to go out to eat. But what if going out to eat isn’t the best option for you and yours? Whether you are on a budget, on a diet, or on a quest to slow down your life, eating at home doesn’t have to mean hunkering down to joyless, boring or time intensive meals. Here are the top benefits I’ve discovered to dining in rather than eating out:
fYI
Get Some Satisfaction It’s satisfying to learn to make a fun
new dish, expand my horizons, keep me
healthy, and help steward my resources
by having a great dinner experience even
if it’s “just” at home.
TeachWhen I eat at home I can expose my
friends and family to foods beyond the
chicken nuggets and hamburgers.
While we prepare and enjoy a new type
of food, we learn about how people
from other cultures and parts of the
world live and eat.
Save timeIt may seem counter-intuitive, but I’ve
found that if I keep a few ingredients on
hand I can whip up a great homemade
meal in a fraction of the time it takes to
dressed in the morning. I can even make
a homemade pizza faster than Papa
John’s delivers. Keeping meal-sized port-
ions of cooked and frozen meat on hand,
cuts down dramatically on the time I have
to invest on busy nights, while still giv-
ing me the flexibility to make whatever
I'm craving.
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The Italian sandwich. It’s a staple in any and every sand-
wich shop from your local mom and pop to giants like Sub-
way and Quizno’s. Why then, is it so unreasonable to think
that we can’t enjoy the same sorts of flavors at home? All it
needs is the proper ingredients and making this sandwich
will take no longer than assembling a classic PB & J.
Step 1: Find a good baguette. A sandwich is only as good as
its bread - no matter how good the ingredients. Step 2: Slice
the bread in half, lengthwise and drizzle both sides with
olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Step 3: Pile on the cheese and
meat. For this sandwich, I used the mild Provolone cheese
and topped it with Chorizo and Prosciutto. Step 4: Devour.
(If you crave some green, feel free to add some fresh arugala
for a fresh peppery bite!)
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fast
WHAT'Sin a
GRAiNSouthern Long Grain
California Medium Grain
California Mochi
Thai Jasmine
Indian Basmati
Arborio
BEST TypE SizE
This is the most common type of rice consumed in the
U.S., and the world, as table rice. It is a long slender
kernel, four to five times longer than its width. This rice is
a firmer and not as sticky as medium grain varieties.
This rice needs a special temperate climate and is only
grown in a few places in the world, mostly in Asia. In
terms of a bland, clean taste, this rice is probably the best
in the world. Medium grain rice is shorter and wider than
long grain rice. The kernels are two to three times longer
than its width. This rice tends to be a little on the softer
side and is sticky.
This type of rice is also known as sweet rice, glutinous rice,
or waxy rice. Mochi rice is slightly sweeter than convention-
al rice, but the rice is not sweet and most palates would
not detect any sweetness. This rice is incredibly sticky.
Jasmine Rice from Thailand is an aromatic rice with a
strong aroma and taste that is unique. The rice looks
much like southern long grain rice before and after cook-
ing, but the texture is sticky, much like California medium
grain rice. The rice is best consumed after new crop is
harvested. None matches the unique texture, aroma, and
texture of Thai Jasmine.
Indian Basmati rice is also an aromatic rice, but has a very
different aroma and taste from Thai Jasmine. Some peo-
ple describe its aroma as popcorn like. This rice is grown
in the northern Punjab region of India and Pakistan, and
commands the highest price of any variety of rice grown in
the world. The raw kernel is long and slender like southern
long grain, but slightly smaller. The kernels increase in
length by more than three times when cooked to produce
a very long slender cooked grain.
Arborio Rice is an Italian variety of rice that is commonly
used in risotto dishes. It is close to California medium
grain in appearance and texture. It is a bigger kernel with a
distinct chalky center. When properly cooked, arborio rice
develops a unique texture with a starchy creamy surface
and a firm bite in the center.
used in absolutely
anything.
in Mediterranean
dishes, Spanish
rice dishes (such as
paella) and various
Asian dishes.
for sticky rice
dumplings, sushi,
and sweet dishes
is best used in
Persian and Middle
Eastern dishes
for any and all
Indian dishes savory
and sweet alike
is almost exclusively
used for risotto,
a creamy, Italian
rice dish
Ever find yourself cooking an delicious meal
only to find that your dish is completely
ruined by none other than the rice? Chances
are, you might be cooking it incorrectly...
but if you're cooking it correctly and it still
comes out wrong, what's the deal? Maybe
you're using the wrong type of rice for your
specific meal. Some rices are incredibly
sticky and would go horribly with some
dishes where the rice is required to be a
bit looser and firmer. So, just to give you an
idea, here's a brief chart for you to take a
look at, spend some time with, and eventu-
ally, make no more bad rice decisions!
(List does not include instant rice, that's for cheaters)
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comPaRE
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toolS
Have you ever read a recipe that
calls for "stirring with a wooden
spoon" and wondered why? Why
not stir with a metal spoon? Or
a silicone spoon or spatula? Is it
important what kind of wood the
spoon be made from? Even if you
haven't wondered about wooden
spoons before, I have done the
wondering for you, and I think I have
come up with some answers.
Advantages of a Wooden Spoon
First of all, let's talk about the feel of a
wooden spoon. There's nothing like
stirring a sauce or sautéing veggies with
a wooden spoon in your hand. Espe-
cially one that you've owned for a long
time. The handles are generally gently
rounded and just feel good to hold.
A spoon with hard edges can dam-
age delicate ingredients. Wooden spo-
ons, with their smooth, gentle curves
are much less likely to bruise, crush or
tear your ingredients as you stir.
Another reason that wooden spo-
ons are superior to metal spoons is
that wooden spoons aren't conductive.
That means that, if you leave your
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spoon in a hot sauce for a long time, the
wooden handle will still stay cool. (Be
care though, I have a bunch of wooden
spoons that have funny curves in them
from leaving them in a hot pot.)
Try that with a metal spoon, and
you'll end up with a burned hand. Yes,
you could get around this problem by
using a metal spoon with a non-con-
ductive handle, but you'll still have to
contend with those hard angles smash-
ing into your food.
Wooden spoons are especially
useful when stirring on a non-stick
surface. Metal spoons can scratch
nonstick coatings, while smooth wood-
en spoons will not harm non-stick
surfaces. Even while stirring in a
regular pot, metal spoons can also leave
scratches, and they make a scraping
noise that can become a bit bothersome
over time. Again, wooden spoons to
the rescue. They won't scratch your
copper, aluminum or stainless steel
pots and are nice and quiet to use.
When stirring acidic ingredients,
like lemon curd or tomato sauce, some
metal spoons can react with the acids
in foods and leave a metallic taste or
even change the color of the food you
are cooking. Wood is non-reactive.
Another score for the wooden spoon.
Last, here's a somewhat subjective
reason for using wooden spoons: I
have a friend who is a professional
chef, and he uses the same spoon every
time he makes his tomato sauce. He
tells me the flavors become part of the
spoon and add to the taste of his sauce!
I'm not sure I buy the "flavors
become part of the spoon" but it sou-
nds good and I do believe the history
in a spoon adds something magical
to a dish. As far as I'm concerned,
wooden spoons win. Hands down.
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dEfiNE/REfiNE
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Walking along the large boule- vards and numerous, small, wind-ing streets of Madrid can certainly work up one's appetite. Whether it's 10 0'clock at night, the middle of the afternoon, or the wee hours of the morning, there's bound to
a restaurant open serving up tapas. As Spain's very own snack culture, it's something we definitely lack here in America. Think of tapas like luxury fast food — they're usually fast, cheap, they're mostly healthy, and, oh yeah, they're delicious.
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Tapas are essentially a wide variety
of appetizers in Spanish cuisine. They
may be served cold, such as a few olives
and cheese, or warm, such as chopitos,
which are battered, fried baby squid.
In select bars in Spain, as well as some
parts of North America and the UK,
tapas have evolved into an entire, and
sometimes sophisticated, cuisine. In
Spain, patrons of tapas can order many
different tapas and combine them to
make a full meal.
Tapas are designed to encourage
conversation because people are not so
focused upon eating an entire meal
that is set before them. Also, in some
countries it is customary for diners to
stand and move about and eat tapas.
According to legend, the tapas trad-
ition began when King Alfonso X of
Castille recovered from an illness by
drinking wine with small dishes bet-
ween meals. After regaining his health,
the King ordered that taverns would
not be allowed to serve wine to custom-
ers unless it was accompanied by a
small snack, and thus, "tapa". I don't
know about myths and legends, but
it's no fabrication that tapas simple and
delicious little morsels.
The word "tapas" is derived from
the Spanish verb tapar, "to cover".
According to The Joy of Cooking, the
original tapas were the slices of bread
or meat which sherry drinkers in Anda-
lusian taverns used to cover their gla-
sses between sips. This was a practical
measure meant to prevent fruit flies
from hovering over the sweet sherry.
The meat used to cover the sherry
was normally ham or chorizo, which
are both very salty and activate thirst.
Because of this, bartenders and rest-
aurant owners began creating quite a
variety of snacks to serve with sherry,
thus increasing their alcohol sales.
The tapas eventually became as impor-
tant as the sherry.
Tapas have evolved through Span-
ish history by incorporating ingredients
and influences from different cultures
and countries. For starters, most of the
Iberian Peninsula was invaded by the
Romans, who introduced the olive and
irrigation methods. The invasion of
the North African Moors, in the 8th
century, brought almonds, citrus fruits
and fragrant spices. The influence of
their 700-year presence remains today,
especially in Andalusia. The discovery
of the New World brought the introduc-
tion of tomatoes, sweet peppers and
chili peppers, maize, beans and types
of potatoes. And evetually, after these
were cultivated, the found their way
into Spain's most classic dishes.
In Spain, dinner is usually served
between 9 and 11 p.m., sometimes as
late as midnight. So naturally, Span-
iards typically go "bar hopping", ir de
tapas, and eat tapas in the window
of time between finishing work and
dinner time. Since lunch is usually
served between 1 and 3 p.m., another
common time for tapas is weekend
days around noon as a means of social-
izing before lunch proper at home.
But honestly, there's no set time frame
for tapas. Most restaurants are open
for long hours and serve tapas nearly
all day long.
It is very common for a bar or a
small local restaurant to have eight to
12 different kinds of tapas in warming
A stunning presentation of a classic tapa: pan de jamon y tomate - bread topped with tomato and ham. Shreds of ham are delicately set atop a smothering of tomato, all on a fresh baguette.
A menu from Una Tapeta? The tapas listed at the top of the menu are smaller portions whereas the platillos (plates) at the bottom are larger portions more fit for multiple people or an entree.
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trays with glass partitions covering
the food. They are often very strongly
flavored with garlic, chilies or paprika,
cumin, salt, pepper, saffron and some-
times in plentiful amounts of olive oil.
Often times, one or more of the choices
is seafood, mariscos, often including
anchovies, sardines or mackerel in olive
oil, squid or others in a tomato-based
sauce, sometimes with the addition of
red or green peppers or other season-
ings. It is rare to see a tapas selection
not include various types of olives,
such as manzanilla or arbequina olives.
One or more types of bread are usually
available to eat with any of the sauce-
based tapas.
In Madrid, Castilla-La Mancha,
Castilla y León, Asturias, Extremadura,
and in parts of Andalucia, when one
goes to a bar and orders a drink, often
a tapa will be served with it for free.
As a drink, it is usual to ask for a caña
(small beer), a chato (glass of wine)
r a mosto (grape juice). In several cities,
entire zones are dedicated specifically
to tapas bars, each one serving its own
unique dish.
In northern Spain, they are also
called pinchos (pintxos in Basque) in
Asturias, in Navarre, Basque Country,
Cantabria and in some provinces,
such as Salamanca, because many of
them have a little pincho or toothpick
through them. The toothpick is used to
keep whatever the snack is made of
from falling off the slice of bread but
also mainly to keep track of the num-
ber of tapas that the customer has eaten.
Differently priced tapas have different
shapes or have toothpicks of different
sizes. The price of a single tapa can
range from one to two euros. Another
name for them is banderillas, dimin-
utive of bandera, meaning "flag", in
part because some of them resemble
the colored spears used in bullfighting.
Tapas can be "upgraded" to a
bigger portion, equivalent to half a
dish, media ración, or a whole one
ración. This is generally more econo-
mical when a tapas are being ordered
by more than one person. Big or small,
the best way to enjoy tapas is with
other people: friends and family all
gathered round, tapas covering the
table and a good bottle of wine.
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Spanish culture epitomized: a man casually sits outside the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca. Spaniards eat at all hours of the day and becuase the weather there is so generally lovely, you'll find them all eating outside, enjoying the food and the weather.
(opposite) Meatballs. Every culture has their own version. The Spanish have Albondigas. These meatballs are trad- itionally served in a tomato-based sauce. They're too good for pasta.
(below) This is what a tapas table generally looks like. Tons of tiny plates covering the table while people choose which tiny delicacies catch their eye. Spaniards are not afraid of having a quiet tapa alone, but truly, tapas are best enjoyed family style.
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mEat CoUrSE
For those of you who prefer the carni-
vorous lifestyle, knowing where your
meat comes from can be the difference
between a good meal and a bad meal.
But even moreso than that, knowing the
right types of beef can contribute to a
healthier meat-eating lifestyle. Beef is
easy to love because of its taste and var-
iety of preparations. But it’s also a
naturally nutrient-rich source of ten ess-
ential nutrients. The protein in beef
helps strengthen and sustain your body.
Evidence shows that protein plays an
important role in maintaining healthy
weight, building muscle and fueling
physical activity.
And when you’ve got all that going
for you, you and your loved ones are one
big step closer to a healthier lifestyle
and at lower risk for disease. Too much
beef can lead to health problems, so
enjoy, but do so in moderation.
You should know that there are 29
cuts of beef that meet government
guidelines for lean. Each one contains
less than 10 grams of total fat, 4.5
grams or less of saturated fat, and less
than 95 milligrams of cholesterol per
3.5 oz. serving. Each cut of beef is very
unique and used for different times,
temperatures, and meals. On the follow-
ing pages you will find a few of the
most important cuts.
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YOU HAVE A CHOICESo what the heck is "choice" beef? The
word "choice" is a quality grade given
by the U.S. Department of Agriculture
to describe very high quality beef and
other meats (veal and lamb) in terms
of tenderness, juiciness and flavor.
Choice is the second-highest meat qual-
ity grade, with prime being the highest.
This meat quality grade is given bas-
ed on a combination of marbling and
maturity. Marbling (or flecks of fat with-
in the meat) adds flavor, and younger
beef produces the most tender meat.
Therefore, the "choice" grade will be
given to meat that comes from very you-
ng beef with moderate marbling, but
not as much marbling as meat that has
been graded prime.
If you prefer prime, or have the cash
to front for it, by all means, buy it.
Choice is the best quality you'll get for
the price, but keep in mind that fat
equals flavor. And, no, no one will judge
you for slicing off bits of fat while eat-
ing your giant T-bone steak. Always
keep in mind that with beef, modera-
tion is key.
Use the following page as a impetus
to experiment with different flavors
and techniques. Once you have a basic
knowledge of cuts and know how to
use them, you will be on your way to
making delicious and healthy meals.
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CHUCK RIB
PLATEBRISKET
Since the chuck comes from the forequarters of the animal that is exercised regularly, it contains a fair amount of connective tissue and can be tough. However, it has a higher fat content than some other cuts such as round. Therefore, chuck works well for braising, such as a pot roast, as stew meat or as ground beef.
Beef plate is located beneath the rib section of the animal and contains a lot of cartilage making it good for braising. However, the plate is also used for short ribs, skirt steak, and ground beef.
The rib is one of the premium cuts of beef. It can be used in an oven roast to make prime rib, as steak in the form of a rib eye, or other forms of dry-heat cooking. The rib offers a very tender and flavorful piece of meat.
Like chuck, beef brisket comes from the forequarters and is used in a similar manner for pot roast or stewing, however, the brisket is also used to make corned beef by brining the meat and then moist cooking it. The brisket can be divided into the point half, which is leaner, and the flat half which is fattier and therefore more moist after cooking.
CHUCK
PLATE
RIB
BRISKET(A.K.A THE SHOULDER)
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ROUNDSHORTLOIN
TENDERLOIN
SIRLOIN
FLANK
Top sirloin is typically used as premium steak or kabobs, while bottom sirloin makes for a health-conscious oven roast since it is leaner than many other cuts. In all cases, however, the sirloin sections are tender and make an excellent choice for barbecuing.
Round is from the hindquarters of the animal and therefore is tough, however, unlike chuck, round is also fair lean. Round is the tradi-tional source of cube steak but also works well as a pot roast or stew meat. If using the round tip, bottom round or eye round the section is often used as an inex-pensive oven roast.
As the name implies, this section is very tender and is the source of filet mignon as well as chateau-briand. In addition, tenderloin can also be used for oven roasts, kabobs, or other dry-heat cooking methods though it is usually more expensive than other cuts.
SIRLOIN
Beef short loin is the site for the most premium cuts of beef. The short loin is almost exclusively used for steak in the form of T-bone and Porterhouse, but also as strip steak also known as strip loin. Due to its tenderness, dry-heat cooking is typically used for cuts from this section
SHORT SIRLOIN
ROUND
TENDERLOIN
From the belly of the animal, flank is typically tough. Though it is often grilled, marinating the cut is required for a tender end product. To avoid marinating, flank is also suited for ground beef or braising as with a pot roast.
FLANK
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Mushrooms delicious
You are the fungi supreme
Forget truffles, k?
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portobEllo fRIEs PG 44 witH SpICY CHIPotlE mayo
fUngiour most favorite
of them all
mUShRoom SauCE
PG 40 witH CRIminiS anD ShIitakeS
anD CabbAGE SoUP pG 36
PG 31 tHE CLASsic, tHE VErSatIlE, tHE EASY,
tHE mUShRoomPG 30 fUN fACtS About
mUShRoom riSotto
ShIitakE mUShRoomRoaStEd PotatoEs and
sHiItakE mUShroomS
PG 32
29
maIn CoUrSE
Mushrooms are unique. They are
neither animal or plant. Some people
consider them to be plants for var-
ious reasons, but they differ from plants
in that they lack the green chlorophyll
that plants use to manufacture their
own food and energy. For this reason
they are placed in a Kingdom of their
own," The Kingdom of Fungi".
So, what are mushrooms? A mush-
room is but the fruit of the fungal org-
anism that produces them, much like
an apple tree produces apples to bear
seeds to ensure the continuation of it's
species, so the fungal organism pro-
duces mushrooms that carry spores to
ensure the prosperity of its own species.
Unfortunately, like most fruits and
vegetables, mushrooms are very deli-
cate things, they do not last, some have
a life span of less than a day others
may survive one week, and a group of
tougher mushrooms may last months
but they have a tough woody texture.
Most fleshy mushrooms do not last;
making research difficult.
Mushrooms even have a cult
following. There are those who forage,
collect and cultivate mushrooms.
Brave souls will wander out into the
forest, or perhaps just into their own
backyard, to find fruitful fungi in all
their natural glory. Of course, we all
know of the "magic mushrooms" —
ones that supposedly grant you magic-
al powers if you're high enough. As
much as I would like to shoot lasers
from my eyeballs, this is a cooking
magazine and not one about which
mushroom variety releases the most
toxin into your system.
Aside from their supposed powers,
one thing we do know is that mush-
rooms will give you nutritional powers
and they are delicious when cooked
properly. The pages that follow discuss
everything from how mushrooms are
cultivated to how they end up on your
table. The stars of our show include:
Shiitakes, Criminis, Portobellos, and
Oyster. These four were chosen bec-
ause of their availability. Although exotic
muchrooms are very fascinating, it
seems a bit impractical to have recipes
for mushrooms that are exclusive or
not readily available at your very own
local grocery store.
tHE fUngUS among US
30
tHE world'S moSt famoUS mUSHroomThe Mario Mushroom of course. This little guy made his
debut in 1981 with the first installment of Nintendo's Mario
videogame franchise. In addition to the 1-up mushroom,
there is the classic Mario enemy: the Goomba. A mushroom
in his own right, Mario fans have been jumping over or
on top of goombas for over 20 years.
HUmonGoUS fUnGUSPeople have known about the "honey
mushroom" for some time, but were
not aware of how large and invasive
this species of fungus could be. The
fungus was investigated more closely
by researchers when they realized that
it was responsible for killing large
groves of evergreen trees. Researchers
collected samples of the fungus from
a widespread area and analyzed the
DNA. A large sample of the speci-
mens they collected turned out to be
from a single organism.
Until August of 2000 it was thought
that the largest living organism was a
fungus of the same species (Armillaria
ostoyae) that covered 1,500 acres (600
hectares) found living in the state of
Washington. But then mycology experts
surmised that if an Armillaria that large
could be found in Washington State,
then perhaps one just as large could be
responsible for the trees dying in the
Malheur National Forest in the Blue
Mountains of eastern Oregon. Research-
ers were astonished at the sheer mag-
nitude of the find. This most recent find
was estimated to cover over 2,200 acres
(890 hectares) and be at least 2,400
years old, possibly older.
tHE dEath caPThe world's deadliest mushroom is
the death cap. The five different poisons
contained in the mushroom cause
diarrhea and vomiting within 6 to 12
hours of ingestion. This is followed
by damage to the liver, kidneys, and
central nervous system and, in the
majority of cases, coma and death.
HUmonGoUS fUnGUSConsidered one of the most beautiful
mushrooms in the world is the Bridal
Veil mushroom. It gets its name for
an obvious reason: it has a large flow-
ing "skirt" that drapes from the cap.
The "skirt" is used mainly to attract ins-
ects that will spread its spores. To top
it all off, this mushroom is edible. It is
mainly sold in Chinese markets and
used for Haute Cuisine.
mUshRoom cRazEdPeople love mushrooms. Whether they're edible or not. For
example, if you visit Etsy.com, artists and crafty-folk have
created over 10,000 mushroom themed products. From
Wonderland to your own backyard, from pop culture to
secluded forests, let's face it: they're aboslutely everywhere.
fUnGUS faCtS
31
mUShRoom SauCEtHE CLASsic, tHE VErSatIlE, tHE EASY,
2 Tbsp of butter
2 garlic cloves (minced, really tiny)
1 tsp of sage (ground)
6 oz of mushrooms
1 cup of heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste
SERVES 2
The best thing about this recipe is that you can use absolutely any type of mushroom. I used oyster mushrooms (see below) but you can use anything from portobello to crimini. Depending on how meaty the mushroom is, the cooking times may vary. But honestly, it's so easy, you're a fool if you don't make this.
� Over medium-high heat, melt the butter. When melted, add garlic,
sage, and sautee for about 5 minutes.
� Add the chopped mushrooms and cook until they're nice and soft.
� Salt and pepper. Add the heavy cream and warm until the texture is
velvety smooth.
� Pour over pasta, chicken or just about anything! Enjoy!
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33
Originally, the Japanese cultivated the mushroom by cutting
shii trees with axes and placing the logs by trees that were
already growing shiitake or contained shiitake spores. Before
1982, the Japanese variety of these mushrooms could only
be grown in traditional locations using ancient methods. In
1982, Gary F. Leatham published an academic paper based
on his research on the budding and growth of the Japan
Islands variety; the work helped make commercial cultiva-
tion possible in United States. Dr. Leatham is known in the
industry as the “father of shiitake farming in the USA.”
In the United States, shiitake cultivation got off to a slow
start, due to the USDA confusing the mushroom with an
invasive species known as Lentinus lepideus. The USDA
realized their mistake in 1972 and allowed importation
and cultivation.
For centuries, the shiitake was used as a medicinal
mushroom, taken as a remedy for upper respiratory
diseases, poor blood circulation, liver trouble, exhaustion
and weakness, and to boost qi, or life energy. It was also
believed to prevent premature aging.
Fresh and dried shiitake have many uses in the cuisines of
East Asia. In Chinese cuisine, they are often sauteed in
vegetarian dishes such as Buddha’s delight. In Japan, they
are served in miso soup, used as the basis for a kind of
vegetarian dashi, and also as an ingredient in many steamed
and simmered dishes. In Thailand, they may be served
either fried or steamed.
Shiitake are often dried and sold as preserved food in
packages. These must be rehydrated by soaking in water
before using. Many people prefer dried shiitake to fresh,
considering that the sun-drying process draws out the flavor
from the dried mushrooms by breaking down proteins into
amino acids and transforms ergosterol to vitamin D. The
stems of shiitake are rarely used in Japanese and other
cuisines, primarily because the stems are harder and take
longer to cook than the soft fleshy caps. The highest grade
of shiitake are called "donko" in Japanese.
Today, shiitake mushrooms have become popular in
many other countries as well. Russia produces and also con-
sumes large amounts of them, mostly sold pickled; and the
shiitake is slowly making its way into western cuisine as
well. There is a global industry in shiitake production, with
local farms in most western countries in addition to large
scale importation from China, Japan, Korea and elsewhere.
Because they can now be grown world wide, their
availability is widespread and their price has decreased.
CULTIVATION CULINARY USE
Shiitake are native to Korea, China and
Japan and have been grown in all three
countries since prehistoric times. They
have been cultivated for over 1,000 years.
In fact, the oldest record regarding the
shiitake mushroom dates back to AD 199.
ShIita
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34
CUTTINg THE POTATO
Once you have cut the potato lengthwise, make
3 simple cuts to get the same size everytime.
Uniform size means uniform cooking.
6 small to medium white potatoes, washed
2 cloves of garlic sliced
2 stalks of green onion, washed and cut to form ribbons
4 oz shittake mushrooms, washed, stems removed
1 sprig fresh rosemary coarsely chopped
1 tsp dried thyme
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
S/P
SERVES 3-4
ROASTED POTATOES WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
� Preheat oven to 375 F with empty baking dish (9x13).
I chose to use white potatoes but you could use red potatoes or yu-
kon golds depending on your preference. Not peeling the potatoes
because the skin can add nice flavor and texture as well as nutrients
but peeling is an option. If you don’t peel the potatoes just wash the
outside with a clean brush and cool water.
� Slice the potatoes into small 1/2 inch cubes.
(See figure below)
� Remove preheated dish from oven and add 2 Tbs olive oil or
enough to coat all of the potatoes. Toss potatoes in the olive oil to
evenly coat; beware of sizzling. S/P and add rosemary and thyme
and toss again.
� Bake for 30 minutes, tossing potatoes once halfway through.
Note: Baking time may vary depending on the type of potato used.
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ROASTED POTATOES WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
� Add shittakes and sliced garlic with 1 tbs olive oil and a pinch of
salt and toss to coat mushrooms. Olive oil will help the mushrooms
stay moist. Continue baking for 10 minutes. Garlic is reserved for
this stage to prevent burning if it is added too soon.
� To prepare the green onions, once they have been washed, hold
the bulb end and cut once lengthwise then cut the stalk in half and
remove the bulb. Then, using your hands, separate the inner layers.
This style of slice adds a contrast in shape to the other components
of the dish and creates additional elegance, however, if desired, a
standard chop can be used as well.
� Set your oven to broil a couple minutes to brown some of the
potatoes. This makes them nice and crispy.
� The potatoes are done when fork tender.
� Remove and serve garnished with the green onion ribbons.
ShIita
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FRESH VS. DRY HERBS
3:1 / FRESH:DRY
Let’s face it. Not all of us have the luxury of keeping fresh
herbs in our refridgerators. They are tasty and pure when
fresh and pungent and delicious when dried — but when
should you use one over the other? Truth is, you can sub-
titute dry for fresh herbs anytime, as long as you use the
right ratio.
Keep in mind that fresh herbs are generally better for foods
with shorter cooking times and for garnishes. Dry herbs
are better for longer cooking times, as they hold up their
flavor and aroma.
36
1 small onion sliced and layers separated
2 tbs oil
2 tsp fresh grated (or finely chopped) ginger
1 tbs green onion
2 cloves Garlic finely minced
1/2 tsp Red pepper flakes
1 tbs soy sauce
6 leaves of white or napa cabbage roughly chopped
1/2 carrot sliced on a bias (optional)
4 shiitake mushrooms sliced
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
SHIITAKE MUSHROOM AND CABBAgE SOUP
� Over medium-low heat bring oil up to temperature and sweat on-
ions until soft. Add ginger and garlic and saute until fragrant.
� Add cabbage until wilted. Add red pepper flakes, shiitake mush-
rooms and carrot. and saute a minute.
� Add chicken stock then bring soup to boil and reduce to simmer for
5 to 10 minutes then add green onion. Simmer for a couple minutes
more and serve hot with sriracha (optional).
This dish can be served with udon or vermicelli noodles to add ad-
ditional substance depending on preference.
SERVES 1-2
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maIn CoUrSE
39
In 1926, a Pennsylvanian mushroom
farmer found a clump of common
mushrooms with white caps in his
mushroom bed. Like white bread, it
was seen as a more attractive food
item and was very popular. As was
done with the navel orange and Red
Delicious apple, cultures were grown
from the mutant individuals, and most
of the cream-colored store mushrooms
we see today (like the ones over there)
are products of this chance natural
mutation.
Agaricus bisporus is now cultivated
in at least 70 countries around the
world. Global production in the early
1990s was reported to be more than
1.5 billion kg, worth more than US$
2 billion. Needless to say, these little
beauties are a hot commodity.
Criminis are the most basic of mush-
rooms. They also have many names:
whole mushroom, white mushroom,
brown mushroom, and yes, portobello.
The difference between these popular
varieties of mushrooms is just age.
CULTIVATION
CULINARY USE
The white button mushrooms, those
very familiar kitchen staples, are
simply the youngest variety. They have
been cultivated, too, for that white
color and soft texture. In the wild these
mushrooms are usually browner.
Criminis can be used for anything that
calls for a basic mushroom. They are
extremely versatile and have a decent
shelf life. If you find a recipe that
blankly calls for "mushrooms," these
are the ones you'll want to use.
Commonly, these are best used for
sauces, soups, and stuffing. Crimini
hold up there shape for the long cook-
ing times of sauces and soups. Cur-
rently trending is the classic stuffed
mushroom. In the grocery store you'll
find especially large criminis selected
just for stuffing. Everything from sau-
sage to cheese to squash can be stuffed
into the caps of these little wonders,
making them the perfect hour dourves
for your next get together.
In short, when you're unsure about
finding the right fungi, look no further
than crimini.
40
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1/2 pound fresh porcini or crimini mushrooms
4 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
2 ounces pancetta, diced
1/2 cup chopped shallots (3 shallots)
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
In a small saucepan, heat the chicken stock with the 2 cups of
reserved mushroom liquid and bring to a simmer.
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter and saute
the pancetta and shallots over medium-low heat for 5 minutes.
Add the mushrooms and saute for another 5 minutes.
Add the rice and stir to coat the grains with butter.
Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes. Add 2 full ladles of the chicken
stock mixture to the rice plus the saffron, salt, and pepper. Stir and
simmer over low heat until the stock is absorbed, 5 to 10 minutes.
Continue to add the stock mixture, 2 ladles at a time, stirring every
few minutes. Each time, cook until the mixture seems a little dry
before adding more of the stock mixture.
Continue until the rice is cooked through, but still al dente, about
25 to 30 minutes total. When done, the risotto should be thick and
creamy and not at all dry.
Off the heat, stir in the Parmesan cheese. Serve hot in bowls with
extra cheese.
SERVES 4
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41
crimIn
I
If you're curious about arborio rice, check
out page 13 for a little bit of information on
what makes this creamy rice different than
other grains of rice.
42
The giant, and well-loved portobello is native
to the grasslands of Europe and North Ameri-
ca. Agaricus bisporus is cultivated in more
than seventy countries and is one of the most
commonly and widely consumed mush-
rooms in the world. No surprise there. The
portobello is the meat of the mushroom
world and, more often than not, is the perfect
portion size.
43
If you read the crimini section, the you already know that the
portobello is the crimini's older brother. Essentially, they are
the same thing. What makes the portobello extremely unique
is its size. Thus, there are many recipes and culinary tech-
nique that are specific to this giant fungi.
The portobello is perfect for single portioned meals.
You can grill them and eat them as a healthy alternative to
a hamburger, you can fry them, bake them, and of course,
use them in any soup of sauce. These wonderful, rich, fruit-
ful, mushrooms will hold up to longer cooking times and
hold its shape.
On a side note, another wonderful thing portobellos are
used for is making lovely mushroom prints. To make one:
cut off the cap of the mushroom, and lay it gill-side down,
on paper. Cover with a bowl or glass to keep spores from
blowing away and to allow humidity to increase. Let sit
for at least an hour. You'll end up with a beautiful print
of feathered mushroom gills.
CULINARY USE
44
3 portobello mushrooms
Vegetable oil for frying
1 cup of flour
2 eggs
1 cup of panko bread crumbs
1/2 cup of parmesan cheese
1 tsp of red chili flakes
1/4 cup of chopped parsley
S/P
1/2 cup of mayonnaise
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
1/2 a teaspoon of cayenne pepper
S/P
PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM "FRIES"WITH SPICY gARLIC MAYONNAISE
� Pour vegetable oil in a pan at least an inch-high. Heat vegetable oil
to about 360 degrees.
Oil temperature can be tricky. If you don't have a thermometer, take
a small piece of the breaded portobello and drop it into the oil. It
should sizzle enthusiastically, but not pop. If popping is excessive,
turn down the heat slightly and try again. Once oil gets hot, it can
hold its heat for a while, so initially you may have to turn the heat up
higher and then as the frying process continues, lower the heat to
maintain a steady temperature.
� In one large plate or baking dish add the flour. To another at the
beaten eggs. To another add in the breadcrumbs, cheese, pepper
flakes, parsley, salt and pepper.
SERVES 2
FOR MAYO:
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ON BREADINgEver heard the old adage, "You can fry anything"? Well, it's
absolutely true. As long as you know how to do it properly.
The essentials are: to have your ingredients be patted dry, to
have a consistent oil temperature, and to have an efficient
breading station. (illustrated below) First you have your
flour. The flour ensures that your food is dry enough to
be coated with eggs. Next, the eggs provide a glue for the
chunkier bread crumbs to adhere to. Then, out of the bread
crumbs and into the fryer!
One last thing to keep in mind is that you should use
one hand for your wet ingredients and the other for your
dry ingredients. Otherwise you'll end up with chunky "glove
hand". Nobody wants that.
45
This chipotle mayo is quite possibly the most magical dipping sauce your ever likely to encounter. It is the perfect compliment to the crunchy mushrooms. in fact, feel free to make this spicy mayo for anything from avocados to french fries.
46
HAND PAINTEDHAND PAINTEDRestaurants and
Signs
scRatch madE fRom
Food critics everywhere claim that we eat with our eyes.
They say that, not only do we respond to the way food tastes,
but also to the way the food looks. The same is true for the
atmosphere of a restaurant. The way a restaurant looks, the
way its menu looks, the environment, all play a huge role in
the dining experience. So much of what we consume is visual.
Once our minds are satisfied with the way things look, we
begin to enjoy the food that is sitting in front of us. It is for
this reason that restaurants go to such trouble to tickle our
visual fancies. They want us to enjoy their food, and thus,
pay them for their hard work. It's no wonder then that
hand-painted signs have ruled the restaurant industry
for decades.
Signs are a vital part of how restaurants distinguish
themselves: appearing one after the other, mismatched
awnings and stucco facades create a unique visual land-
scape — each neighborhood displays their own partiuclar
style. Painted signs, of which no two are exactly alike,
express the history of a place through a unique and often
idiosyncratic language of images, symbols, and text.
46
47
The language of sign painting has a long history, spanning
centuries and countries all over the world. From 14th-centu-
ry English inn signs to the perfectly painted reproductions
of corporate logos on 21st-century storefronts, hand-lettered
signs have announced countless messages to millions of
people. Hand -ettering, which is related to but also distinct
from typography, frequently calls upon the artist to repli-
cate the appearance of printed type either with the aid of
stencils or through painstaking freehand drawing.
It is this ability to create distinctive lettering by hand
that separates the work of the sign painter from that of the
digital designer. Though both occupations require com-
mand of composition and layout, the technical skills invol-
ved in sign painting have their own heritage. Historically,
sign painters have learned their trade through trial and
error, by finding employment as a sign painter's apprentice
— or, more recently, by attending school.
Going back as far as the 1800s, students hoping to learn
the trade had a number of manuals and guides at their dis-
posal. While some sign painting books included historical
information and technical advice, others featured a wide var-
iety of typefaces and ornaments for painters to include in
their own work. Instead of using samples of text to demon-
strate the appearance of a font for a printer to purchase,
the pages of these books featured every letter of the alphabet,
both upper and lower case, for the sign painter to copy.
Some authors of the more technically-minded manuals
warned painters against making their work look too mech-
anical, in order to preserve what they viewed as the individual
spirit of the art. A 1920 book, "How To Paint Signs and Sho'
Cards", promises that technical mastery leads to individual
expression: "You can express just as much originality and
personality in lettering as you can in pictorial work." Letter-
forms themselves become image. Even during the sign
painting heyday, hand letterers were well aware of the stiff
competition posed by printers when it came to advertising
signage. As a result, they found ways to balance speed and
quality with the distinctive, homespun effects of handwork.
You can express just as much originality and personality in lettering as you can in pictorial work.
48
Despite their history of competition, typography and hand
lettering have powerful ties that reach back to the invention
of the printing press. The blackletter typefaces used in the
first mechanically printed books imitated handwritten scripts
used in medieval Western Europe. Even italics, once a dis-
crete typeface rather than a supplementary component of
roman fonts, were initially designed to imitate the calligra-
phy used by Italian state officials and scholars. Later, the
proliferation of printed matter and advertising over the
course of the 19th and early 20th centuries added a unique
twist to the relationship between the human hand and the
printing press, as the use of type to imitate writing comming-
led with skillful hand lettering techniques that imitated type.
More than merely imitating printed text, skilled sign paint-
ers could push the limits of letterforms. Their ability to alter
the sizes, shapes, color, and arrangement of words and ima-
ges with the stroke of a brush made it possible to quickly
produce an extensive, eloquent variety of compositions for
their clients. Sign painters continue to blur the boundary
between letters and pictures, often transforming even the
simplest text into a sophisticated array of symbols that
speak to different viewers. Even something as simple as a
color scheme can alter the meaning of a sign: national
flags, religious iconography, and personal taste might all
find their way into a single group of letters on a neigh-
borhood storefront.
Although the wide availability of digital vinyl lettering
in the 1980s sharply reduced the demand for hand painted
signs, the skill of hand lettering is by no means on the
decline. As an increasingly rare specialty, the ability to trans-
late written messages into richly textured images is not
simply an act of communication with the public, but also
of historical preservation.
Selected writings taken from Arden Stern's article entitled " The Street Museum: Sign Painting as Art and History "
49
"I heard you were doing the mushroom
issue and I couldn't resist! I found this
fancy little product while wandering
through the grocery store. These boxes are
packed with compost, soil, and mushroom
spores. You spray a bit of water on it every
now and then and out will grow your very
own mushrooms! I must try this!"
coLLEctivE
50
"It was a cold Friday evening and Lauren
and I were on our way to dinner and Christ-
mas shopping. We decided to stop somewhere
cheap to grab dinner. So, we snuck into this
little noodle bar and ordered up some Pho.
The waiters brought us these huge, beautiful
bowls of soup — perfect for a chilly evening.
The price of this meal? $5.75. We couldn't
believe it. Good thing it was so cheap!
Because we spent the rest of our money on
Christmas gifts for friends."
51
"Do Not Peep"
52
"The Publican is one of our absolute
favorite restaurants. Located in Chi-
cago's, Fulton Market district, we go
everytime we head up to Chicago. This
most recent time, we brought our good
friends, the Longs, with us and they
absolutely loved it — even if we did
have to walk a mile to get there. If ever
you make it to Chicago, go here and
prepare to be stuffed!"
53
"I will never forget this breakfast. It was a
cold, bright, sunny Spring day in Seattle
and my friends and I needed a place to
stop for a quick breakfast. We huddled
into this small cafe and I ordered these
divine cinnamon raisin pastries. With a
small cup of coffee, these morsels were the
perfect was to start a long day of sight-
seeing and shopping."
54
55
"One day while walking through
a local bookstore, I found this
great little zine. The author has
taken old cooking illustrations and
added new captions. Some of the
imagery is transformed into funny
and sometimes vulgar ways. It's
an incredibly creative little piece
that any foodie would have a good
laugh at."
56
Generated by CamScanner
Generated by CamScanner
"Okay, so I know I'm cheating. This is an
excerpt from one of this past year's Food
and Wine Magazines. I couldn't resist. It's
this recipe for a Spanish Stew that is ab-
solutely to die for and it's so easy to make!
The halibut will cost you a bit of money,
but I've made it with cod in the past and it
has turned out wonderfully. this is a recipe I
would share with anyone. Try it."
57
My grandmother's peanut brittle recipe.
Short and sweet.
58