Download - SHOP Rome AW14
Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman
Crafted for New Heights
Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a fi ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
Boutique Montblanc
Via Condotti 70
VIA CONDOTTI 49/50, ROMA
SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM
Emma Cheevers
Editor’s Letter
12
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Welcome to Rome
Even if you’ve visited Rome before, you may be surprised to discover
Trastevere, a fascinating district full of verdant parks, chic boutiques
and vibrant restaurants – fnd out more in our feature on page 64.
In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the allure of Italian
menswear (page 54) and discover the history behind Gucci’s classic
snafe-bit loafer (page 72).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,
and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell
you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top
global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential
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Contributors
16
ILL
US
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AT
ION
: JA
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HU
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ES
Jack Hughes
Jack Hughes, whose polished
and elegant digital artwork
has been commissioned by
Harrods, Mr Hyde and Elle
Decoration, among others,
created this season’s cover
illustration for SHOP Rome.
Inspired by our feature
about la bella fgura, the
quintessentially Italian look
and allure, on page 54, Jack
has used the classic pose
of Michelangelo’s statue of
David and given it a witty
twist – a sharp suit worn
with typical Italian brio.
Read more about our cover
illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
globalblue.com
Stephen Doig
Stephen Doig is SHOP’s
features editor. A regular
columnist for the Telegraph,
he is a former Harper’s
Bazaar staf member and has
written for Vogue, GQ and
the Financial Times. He has
visited Rome seven times.
Gwyneth Holland
Journalist and trend consultant
Gwyneth Holland works with
leading brands and agencies to
discover the future. She writes
for global fashion and trend
publications and is a founder
of fashion trends service
Unique Style Platform.
Josh Sims
Freelance journalist and
editor Josh Sims contributes
to publications that include the
Financial Times, Independent,
Observer, Wallpaper and
Esquire. His latest book, 50
Years of British Style Culture,
was published in 2012.
LAPERLA.COM
ROMA
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE, 28
Shop Floor
20
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
PublisherJames Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Jack Hughes
Contributors
Gwyneth Holland, Josh Sims
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
Fashion and news editor
Dominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editor
Ximena Daneri
Assistant fashion and news editors
Hannah Lewis,
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion assistant
Gemma Latham
Editorial intern
Sammy Ha
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew
Picture editor
Dorcas Brown
Assistant picture editors
Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Picture assistants
Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Picture intern
Rubi Ali
Artworker
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang,
Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Hibba Sayeed
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the
information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or
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Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
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Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Assistant Russian editor
Kira Savchenko
Russian editorial assistant
Linda Blank
Russian translators
Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Japanese editor
Kyoko Nishimoto
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
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CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
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Digital production manager
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Above: Sophia Loren wearing Gucci snafe-bit loafers on the set of La Moglie del Prete, 1970
Contents
p.54
PH
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Products
28 Check Out
sHoP selects a standout piece from rome
this season
30 My Favourites
designer stella Jean reveals her top tips for
autumn/winter 2014/15
32 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
N e ws
42 Shop Window
one store not to be missed in rome
44 News
seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
F e At u r e s
54 Cover Story:
Passion For Perfection
La bella fgura sums up all that is special
about the allure of Italian menswear. Josh
sims translates the look’s appeal
64 Beyond The Tiber
the trastevere district, once rome’s
poorer cousin, is now a captivating, vibrant
neighbourhood. stephen doig explores
72 In Focus: The Classic Gucci Loafer
Gucci’s smart-casual snafe-bit loafer
has been a design classic since it was
launched 60 years ago. Gwyneth Holland
explains why
MILLA JOVOVICH
SHOP MARELLA.COM
ROMA
via Frattina 129/131
via Appia Nuova 7/11
via del Corso 89/90
c.c. Euroma 2
c.c. Porta di Roma
24
Contents
E ssE n t i a l s114 How To Shop Tax Free
the simple steps to saving money on your shopping
t R a nsl at iOns116 Русский Перевод
124 美文翻译
132 日本語翻訳
sOu v E n i R138 the essential item to bring home
E x pE R i E ncE80 Table Talk
Rome’s top restaurants are among the world’s fnest. verity Hogan ofers a selection of the best
Gu i dE84 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas
of Rome, plus sHOp’s unique view of the city’s sights
112 My Neighbourhood
chef Gaetano costa takes sHOp on a tour of Rome’s parioli district
Online
EnGlisH | Р ус ский | 中文
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Follow the Global Blue editors
on the move for up-to-the-
minute shopping tips and
insider information.
/globalblue
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GET SOCIALFASHION
COMPETITIONS
PH
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EL
AN
IE G
AL
EA
/TH
ES
TR
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TM
US
E.IT
PIAZZA COLONNA 40/41
VIA COLA DI RIENZO 155
VIA FRATTINA 42/43
SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM
ROMA | Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 32651256
| Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 68807902
| Via del Corso c/o Gall. A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 69202079
| Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 77204466
boggi.com | shop.boggi.com
28 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
Check Out
FIT FOR A PRINCESS
Dolce and Gabbana’s autumn/winter collection was inspired by Sicilian fairy tales, so it’s no wonder these opulently embellished gloves look ft for a princess. The Enchanted Sicily collection encompasses printed, embellished and appliqued A-line dresses and coats, sweeping capes and fowing gowns. Motifs featuring wildlife, fowers, keys and crests told a story of secret lands at the catwalk presentation, where models walked through
a forest-themed set to the sounds of Tchaikovsky. These luxurious leather gloves, decorated with gemstones and gilt embroidery, are available in a range of autumnal tones: forest green, black, crimson and ochre. They will make a truly magical addition to your outerwear wardrobe. glDolce & Gabbana Enchanted Sicily
gloves, €2,450, Dolce & Gabbana, Via dei Condotti 51-52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 4999, dolcegabbana.com
* for map go to page 96
30 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
Haitian-Italian Stella Jean began her career in
fashion as a model before discovering her passion for
design. Her ready-to-wear collections are inspired
by her own eclectic heritage and take infuence from
cultures across the world. Her pieces use beautiful
fabrics sourced from far-fung destinations, and she
works with the UN’s International Trade Centre to
support the creation of handloom fabrics by women
from villages in Burkina Faso. Ximena Daneri caught
up with the designer in Rome to fnd out what has
caught her eye this season
My Favourites: steLLa JeaN
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globalblue.com
5. ‘My favourite product
from my autumn/winter
2014 collection is the knitted
kimono, which takes 250
hours of work and mixes
Italian heritage, Japanese
culture and the colours
of Africa’
Stella Jean kimono, €1,938,
Gente, Via del Babuino 77,
00187 Rome, +39 06 320 7671,
stellajean.it
3. ‘Christian Louboutin
was generous enough
to demonstrate a great
willingness to work with
a young brand like mine.
These bespoke boots are
the result of our collaboration
for the autumn/winter show’
Christian Louboutin,
Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 22,
00186 Rome,
+39 06 687 1520,
christianlouboutin.com
2. ‘My signature fragrance
is Jasmin Noir by Bulgari’
Bulgari Jasmin Noir perfume,
100ml, €118,
Bulgari,
Via dei Condotti 10,
00187 Rome,
+39 06 696261,
bulgari.com
4. ‘Right now I’m reading
Quattro Sberle Benedette
by Andrea Vitali’
Quattro Sberle Benedette
by Andrea Vitali, €16.40,
La Feltrinelli Libri e Musica,
Largo Torre Argentina 11,
00186 Rome, +39 06 6866 3001,
lafeltrinelli.it
1. ‘When I travel,
I always carry hand
cream by L’Occitane’L’Occitane hand cream,
150ml, €20,
L’Occitane,
Via del Corso 85,
00186 Rome,
+39 06 321 4463,
loccitane.com
5
32 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
PH
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STu
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Fle
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S
1. Diesel leather jacket, €830,
Diesel, Piazza di Spagna, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 678 6817,
diesel.com
2. Victorinox Mini Champ Alox
knife, €39, Ghalib, Via di Pietra 86,
00186 Rome, +39 06 678 9753,
victorinox.com
3. Hermès gloves, €800,
Hermès, Via dei Condotti 67,
00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1882,
hermes.com
REBEL REBEL
Take inspiration from biker style this
season in lashings of black – begin
with a classic leather jacket and
accessorise it from our selection
1
2
3
globalblue.com
SHOP | 33
4. Montblanc Meisterstück 90 Years
business companion, €450,
Montblanc, Via dei Condotti 70,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1894,
montblanc.com
5. Tod’s backpack, €1,350,
Tod’s, Via dei Condotti 53A,
00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1089,
tods.com
7. A Testoni carry-on,
price on request, A Testoni,
Via dei Condotti 80, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 678 8944, testoni.com
6. Alberto Guardiani boots, €475,
Coin Excelsior, Via Cola di Rienzo 173,
00192 Rome, +39 06 3600 4298,
albertoguardiani.com
4 6
5 7
34 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
PH
OTO
: (2)
Del
eTTr
ez
1. Mango dress, €39.99,
Mango, Via del Corso 170-171,
00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1105,
mango.com
2. Delfna Delettrez Lips earring,
€385, Delfna Delettrez,
Via del Governo Vecchio 66-67,
00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 4105,
delfnadelettrez.com
3. Christian Louboutin Cloo shoes,
€825, Christian Louboutin,
Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 22,
00186 Rome, +39 06 687 1520,
christianlouboutin.com
4. Ermanno Scervino bag, €2,600,
Ermanno Scervino, Via del Babuino 97,
00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173,
ermannoscervino.it
5. Marella scarf, €99,
Marella, Via Frattina 129-131,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3800,
marella.com
LOOK SHARP
Rock ‘n’ roll studs add a twist
to feminine shapes and styles
1
3
2
4
5
via Cola di Rienzo, 151/153
inFo + 06 32111881
GalleRia a. SoRdi - via del CoRSo
inFo + 06 6781904
36 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
1. Burberry handbag, €2,695,
Burberry, Via dei Condotti 59-61,
00187 Rome, +39 06 675 0101,
burberry.com
2. Swarovski watch, €319, Swarovski,
Via Condotti/Largo Goldoni 48,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1615,
swarovski.com
3. Pomellato Nudo rings, €4,200
each, Pomellato,
Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 38,
00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9790,
pomellato.com
4. Charline De Luca Regina Pom
Pom shoes, €600, Mon Reve,
Piazzale del Parco della Rimembranza 10,
00197 Rome, +39 06 6401 4664,
charlinedeluca.com
5. Chopard earrings, €8,300,
Chopard, Via del Babuino 22,
00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 3741,
chopard.com
6. Guess Jeans denim overall, €189,
Guess, Via del Corso 120, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 6992 1191, guess.eu
DEEP PURPLE
Rich purple tones lend a touch of gothic
romance to an otherwise casual ensemble
1
4
2
5
6
3
DIESEL STORE ROMA Via del Corso, 118
DIESEL FLAGSHIP STORE ROMA Piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo Vicolo del Bottino, 1
38 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
1. Church’s Indigo shoes, €395,
Church’s, Via dei Condotti 57,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6919 0920,
church-footwear.com
2. Frends Taylor headphones,
€219.95, removable headphone
caps, €49.95, Gente Roma,
Via del Babuino 77, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 320767, wearefrends.com
3. Louis Vuitton ring, €465,
Louis Vuitton, Via dei Condotti 13-15,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0000,
louisvuitton.com
4. Max Mara bag, €725,
Max Mara, Via dei Condotti 17-19,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2104,
maxmara.com
1
THE MIDAS TOUCH
From jewellery to technology, there is
something irresistible about golden accessories
3
2 4
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40 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
PH
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Fa
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Ma
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aN
NiN
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1. Escada handbag, €649,
Escada, Piazza di Spagna 7-8,
00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6995,
escada.com
2. Gucci Jackie handbag,
price on request,
Gucci, Via dei Condotti 8, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 679 0405, gucci.com
3. Giorgio Armani bag,
price on request,
Giorgio Armani, Via dei Condotti 77,
00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1460,
armani.com
4. Jimmy Choo bag, €2,150,
Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667,
jimmychoo.com
5. Hugo Boss bag, €1,695,
Boss, Via Frattina 138, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 678 6173, hugoboss.com
1
SNAKE CHARMERS
From classic shapes to modern twists,
a snakeskin bag never fails to look elegant
2
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42 | NEWS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
Shop Window
BULGARI CELEBRATES 130 YEARS
To celebrate its 130th anniversary, Italian
luxury jewellery and watch purveyor Bulgari
has refurbished its fagship store in Rome.
American artist and architect Peter Marino
oversaw the project, which incorporates
the renovation of Rome’s famous Spanish
Steps. The Steps have served as a link
between Rome’s three Bulgari boutiques
throughout the past four decades, and the
contribution is a tribute to the city the brand
cites as an ‘inexhaustible, constant source of
inspiration’. For the redesign, Marino retained
and reinstalled features created by Italian
architect Di Fausto, who combined modernist
and classical elements in his transformation of
the store during the 1930s. Marino chose new
materials and furnishings that complement the
historic interior, creating an elegant, palatial
environment that suitably showcases the iconic
brand’s heritage and spectacular collections,
which are housed in diferent rooms within
the space. gl
Bulgari,
Via dei Condotti 10, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 696261, bulgari.com
* for map go to page 96
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app to
help you to plan your trip. The app gives
information on 45 cities in 22 countries
– thousands of stores are listed and
located on maps, with full contact details
and a description of what each store
sells. Our maps guide you right to the
store and can also be downloaded for
offine use enabling you to create your
own itinerary. You can also sign up for
the Global Blue Card and, once you’re
logged in the My Tax Refund wallet
becomes available, allowing you to track
pending refunds. The app is available
in Chinese, English and Russian, and
includes a Tax Refund Calculator to
tell you how much you’ll save on every
purchase you make in every different
country you visit. There are also
instructions on how to use Currency
Choice, our service that allows you to
pay in your home currency.
globalblue.com
44 | N E WS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
BALLY IN BLOOM
Bally has long been a byword for outstanding luxury when it comes to materials and manufacture. The brand’s latest womenswear ofering is no diferent, with exotic skins, exquisite leathers and the fnest wools coming together in a truly sophisticated collection. The Bloom bag, named for its buckled sides that open out like petals, is an instant collector’s item, showcasing the brand’s ability to do simple things perfectly. Not that the bag itself is simple. Bally has over 160 years of experience and the Bloom is made with the most precise methods and the most cutting-edge technology. More than that, the creative team knows exactly how to present something beautiful without fuss. Clean lines and a streamlined shape allow the sumptuous fabrics to take centre stage. Available in a variety of colours and textures, including delectable ponyskin, the Bloom is a bag to cherish. hlBally, Via dei Condotti 36, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 0236, bally.com * for map go to page 96
Download the Global Blue guide
from the App Store or Play Store
N E WS | 45
FABI’S FABULOUS NEW STORE
Luxury Italian footwear and accessories design house Fabi has opened Palazzo Fabi, a new store in the centre of Rome. The 700-square-metre space houses a vast array of women’s and men’s footwear, in addition to accessories, bags and clothing collections. Visitors to the store will also be able to discover new lines Mon Amour and I am B, which ofer a selection of more casual shoe designs. The inviting interior integrates original Roman brick walls with light, modern décor and rich furnishings. The diferent collections are presented in dedicated spaces in this relaxed shopping environment. Fabi’s manufacturing takes place at the family-run company’s headquarters in Monte San Giusto on Italy’s east coast and its stores are the perfect place to experience authentic Italian quality, style and hospitality. glPalazzo Fabi,Via del Babuino 16, 00187 Rome, +39 06 322 1816, fabishoes.it
* for map go to page 90
ENGLISH INSPIRATION
For this autumn/winter season, celebrated Italian shoemaker Fratelli Rossetti has taken inspiration from perhaps the best dressed Englishman of the past 50 years, James Bond. The new fve-piece collection evokes a sense of 60s style and suave sophistication; the use of velvety leathers and refned satin treads a fne line between elegance and seduction. As ever, Fratelli Rossetti keeps its focus on the details, continuing to illustrate its passion for quality and fne Italian craftsmanship. Each shoe is hand-fnished by one of the brand’s master artisans, resulting in footwear James Bond himself would be proud to have in his wardrobe. rpFratelli Rossetti, Via Borgognona 5A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 2676, fratellirossetti.com
* for map go to page 96
globalblue.com
46 | NEWS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
A DISCERNING EYE
Stylish boutique Monocle sees an exciting
addition to its range of handmade eyewear and
accessories this season with the new Thom
Browne Collection from Dita. Known for
his exquisite ready-to-wear, which combines
classic tailoring with modern, playful elements,
Browne ofers a creative and experimental
take on gentlemen’s attire. His eyewear
range created with contemporary eyewear
label Dita embraces the same principles.
Traditional shapes are updated with subtle
yet unexpected details, all realised in the most
luxurious materials. The aim is to be classic
but not predictable, with a strong emphasis
on individuality. An accomplished collection
from a hugely talented designer, this is one
collaboration not to be missed. hl
Monocle,
Via di Campo Marzio 13, 00186 Rome,
+39 06 683 3668, monocle-store.com
* for map go to page 104
ROME MEETS TOKYO
Mitsukoshi Roma, which opened in
1975, is the Italian home of famous Japanese
department store Mitsukoshi and combines
the warmth and elegance typical of Roman
boutiques with the exquisite service and
prestige of the Japanese original. Mitsukoshi’s
multilingual staf ofer one of the warmest
welcomes in the city. Choose from the best
Italian and international brands, with oferings
including leather goods, jewellery and small
home accessories. Two mono-brand corners
have just opened in the store, one from Italian
fashion house Tod’s and one from Swiss fne
watch and jewellery brand Chopard, making
the selection better than ever. You are sure
of an unforgettable experience in Mitsukoshi
Roma’s unique and welcoming space. hl
Mitsukoshi Roma,
Via Nazionale 259, 00184 Rome,
+39 06 482 7828,
mitsukoshi.it
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Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
N E WS | 49
TRUSSARDI TREASURE TROVE
Be sure to pay a visit to Trussardi’s spacious boutique on Via dei Condotti, one of Rome’s most luxurious shopping streets. The century-old Italian fashion house fts right in, ofering exquisite leather pieces and classic but contemporary apparel alongside the other exclusive oferings of the area. The boutique refects Trussardi’s sophisticated style, with neutral colours and furnishings of poplar wood and the brand’s signature leather. Visitors are made to feel welcome and comfortable, and there is even a special relaxation area in the Roman lounge for any customers wishing to have a break. While the store ofers a wide range of menswear and womenswear, its focus is on Trussardi’s accessories, which are the result of over a century of absolute commitment to quality. hlTrussardi, Via dei Condotti 49-50, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 0280, trussardi.com
* for map go to page 96
WATCH THIS SPACE
Founded in 1875, trusted watch brand Bulova has a rich history of excellence and innovation. The brand’s original Accutron collection was unprecedentedly accurate and played a role in numerous space missions, including the Apollo 11 moon landing. This season sees Bulova launch a number of watches that combine inspiration from the original Accutron collection with cutting-edge technology and modern design. The Bulova Accutron II Alpha is a particular highlight. Inspired by the original 1960s Accutron Alpha Collection, this timepiece is anything but old fashioned. Its green anodised aluminium dial ring and super-luminescent tuning fork are encased in a sleek and streamlined modern case with a luxurious leather strap, making this watch eye-catching yet understated. hlGioielli e Gioielli,Circonvallazione Ostiense 273, 00154 Rome, +39 06 5728 8492, bulova.com
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50 | NEWS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
PAINTED LADIES
This season’s Burberry Prorsum collection, notable as the
frst from Christopher Bailey in his new dual role as CEO and
chief creative of the British brand, marked a departure from
the ladylike silhouettes we have come to expect from Burberry
Prorsum. For autumn/winter the Burberry girl is a free-spirited
bohemian, with fowing fabrics as the canvas for hand-painted
foral fourishes. The collection was inspired by Charleston,
the English country home of artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan
Grant, who decorated its interior in post-impressionist style.
This artistic infuence is abundantly seen in the exaggerated
brushstrokes applied liberally to dresses, bags, scarves, shoes
and coats. The catwalk show concluded with the cast of models
parading in capes personalised with embroidered initials, which
immediately became the must-have piece of the season. gl
Burberry,
Via dei Condotti 59-61, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 675 0101, burberry.com
* for map go to page 96 PH
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A SENSE OF THEATRE
Fernanda Gattinoni honed her craft as a
fashion designer in London and Paris before
returning to Italy, where she opened her frst
studio in Rome in 1946. Her elegant designs
became popular with royalty, aristocrats and
cinema stars, both in Italy and internationally.
Gattinoni’s son Raniero joined the business
during the 1980s, working alongside his
mother to launch the label’s frst ready-to-wear
and accessories collections. The duo were
later joined by artistic director Guillermo
Mariotto, who drew on the brand’s connection
with cinema to create spectacular, theatrical
fashion shows which took place around
the world. This tradition continues under
Mariotto’s watchful eye today, with both the
ready-to-wear and haute couture presentations
marking a highlight on the Italian fashion
calendar. To experience the magic of this
historic Italian design house, visit the boutique
on Via Sistina or step into the Gattinoni
Couture Atelier (pictured) on Via Toscana if
you are in search of a bespoke creation. gl
Gattinoni,
Via Sistina 44, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 3972
* for map go to page 103;
Gattinoni Couture Atelier (by appointment
only), Via Toscana 1, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 488 1581, gattinoni.com
52 | NEWS
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MORE THAN A FRAGRANCE
Family-run specialist fragrance and cosmetics boutique Campomarzio 70 was established in the 1940s and remains passionate about discovering brands and products that convey emotions and stories through both their scent and presentation. A perfect example is Fornasetti Profumi, the Italian design house which creates room fragrance collections housed in beautiful keepsake ceramics. The handcrafted vessels feature designs composed of original Piero Fornasetti illustrations. The Giardino Segreto collection evokes memories of an old-world Italian garden, steeped in history and rich in foliage and herbs. The fragrance combines ivy, bergamot, pink peppercorn and thyme on a woody base of cedar to create a fresh and herbaceous scent for your home and is available in a selection of candles and as a room spray. glCampomarzio 70 Essential Gallery,
Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739, campomarzio70.it
* for map go to page 92
STAND OUT IN CAVALLI
Roberto Cavalli’s designs are a byword for glamour and drama. While the winter months might signal a more subdued wardrobe for some, this certainly isn’t the case for Cavalli, whose autumn/winter collection is as high-voltage as ever. The collection has a distinctly 1970s vibe, pairing plenty of form-ftting tailoring with extravagant animal prints, opulent embellishment and exotic fabrics. Daytime options are turned up a notch with sharp snakeskin trench coats, slim-ftting silk shirts and leather separates. For after dark, Cavalli presents low-waisted slips, heavily embellished with metal studs or beading and fnished with leather fringing and feathers. irsRoberto Cavalli, Via Borgognona 25, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 5469, robertocavalli.com
* for map go to page 96
SHOP | 53
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TOP 3 BESPOKE TAILORS
Italy has a rich and esteemed
history of suit-making, so no
trip to Rome would be complete
without acquiring your own piece
of Italian tailoring. Ruairidh
Pritchard suggests the top three
bespoke tailors to visit.
1 Famously favoured by some of
old Hollywood’s most dashing,
best-dressed gentlemen,
including Marlon Brando and
Humphrey Bogart, as well as the
Duke of Windsor, Battistoni has
been creating bespoke suits for
its international clientele for over
50 years.
Battistoni,
Via dei Condotti 61A, 00187Rome,
+39 06 697 6111,
battistoni.com
* for map go to page 96
2 Brioni is synonymous with Italian
craftsmanship and the brand’s Su
Misura bespoke service certainly
lives up to its highly regarded
reputation, offering clients a
seemingly infinite choice of
luxury fabrics and finishings.
Brioni,
Via Barberini 79, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 484517,
brioni.com
* for map go to page 103
3 Sartoria Ripense is one of the
best-kept secrets among Rome’s
most sartorially savvy gentlemen.
Moments away from the Piazza
del Popolo and the Spanish Steps,
behind an unassuming storefront,
it is a menswear haven where
you can find everything from the
perfect white shirt to an elaborate
horn-handled umbrella to set off
your expertly tailored suit.
Sartoria Ripense,
Via di Ripetta 38, 00186 Rome,
+39 06 323 3727,
sartoriaripense.com
* for map go to page 98
CAFFÈ CULTURE AT HOME
Italy is known across the world for its fashion, its art and, without a doubt, its cofee. Now visitors to Rome can take home a piece of Italy’s cofee-making mastery with Nespresso’s newest model, the Inissia. The most colourful, lightweight and streamlined machine in Nespresso’s range, the Inissia is compact enough to ft into even the smallest of kitchens, but its modest size doesn’t mean any compromise on quality. Beautifully creamy lattes, frothy cappuccinos and perfect espressos are created at the touch of a button, and the machine takes only 25 seconds to reach peak temperature. Available from the city’s Nespresso boutique on Piazza di Spagna, in a range of eye-catching colours from ruby red to vanilla cream and limited-edition sky blue, the Inissia makes a perfect, stylish addition to any cofee-lover’s kitchen. rp
Nespresso, Piazza di Spagna 34, 00187 Rome, +39 06 8771 6055, nespresso.com
* for map go to page 92
In brief:
— Head to Via
Giovanni Antonelli
to discover
multibrand
boutique
Bagheera. A
wide range of
ready-to-wear
curated around a
sleek and elegant
aesthetic means
you’re sure to
find something
amazing in this
store. Brands
on offer include
Acne, Balenciaga
and Kenzo
54 | FEATURES
Passion
Perfection
Opposite: elegant and sophisticated Marcello Mastroianni in 8 1/2/116 124
SHOP | 55
132
Umberto Angeloni, president and CEO of Italian menswear manufacturer Caruso, ofers a few choice terms: bravura, cognoscente, bel
canto, literati. ‘All of these words or phrases are Italian,’ the fashion entrepreneur notes, ‘and they all denote a special ability or attitude.’ But, he asserts, king among such phrases is la bella fgura – it is, after all, what gives Italian fashion its je ne sais quoi, to borrow a phrase from across the Alps.
La bella fgura is a way of life in Italy: ‘the beautiful image’ is the 24-hour impermeable shell of unrufed chic that is a defning attribute of Italian men, seen so beautifully and in such abundance on the menswear catwalks of labels such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Berluti and Brioni. This, after all, is a nation in which even the tiniest details count, in whichP
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La bella fgura sums up all that is special about the allure of Italian menswear. Josh Sims translates the look’s appealFor
56 | FEATURES
Above (from lef): Michelangelo’s David; Brioni autumn/winter 2014/15
High art is a constant background everywhere in Italy and Italian tailoring reflects this
a dress shirt, such as one from Luigi Borrelli,
has a proprietary three-point crow’s-foot stitch
to attach its mother-of-pearl buttons and the
cotton is pressed using vetiver water. Yes, really.
‘Given our country’s image after 20 years
of poor governance, style matters more than
ever,’ explains Angeloni, formerly CEO of
Brioni and now owner of the Parma-based
Caruso tailoring house, established in 1958 and
now set for revival with store openings planned
for New York and Milan (next January). ‘And it
is the attitude of la bella fgura that gives Italian
style its appeal and fair. La bella fgura is about
being noticeable but not arrogant, seemingly
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Above (from top): crafsmanship at Caruso autumn/winter 2014/15; Ermenegildo Zegna autumn/winter 2014/15
relaxed and ironic and yet actually in full
control. La bella fgura shapes how we talk,
eat, play, firt and especially dress. Italians
are constantly manipulating their image. But
la bella fgura is, especially, the Italian man’s
business card.’
Indeed, what image did the 2014 Cannes
Film Festival use to promote its cool
sophistication? None other than one of Italian
actor Marcello Mastroianni, shown starring
in Federico Fellini’s 1963 flm 8½. Actors
are not the only elegant Italians: writer and
poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, industralist Gianni
Agnelli, and Ferrari’s chairman Luca Cordero
di Montezemolo, voted onto Vanity Fair
magazine’s 2013 list of the world’s best-dressed,
are similarly stylish Italian men.
The life philosophy of la bella fgura has
deep roots: as with the English dandy and the
French fâneur, la bella fgura was originally
conceived as an aspiration specifcally for
the Italian peacock, not the peahen. When
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Above: Berluti autumn/winter 2014/15
Appearances are always going to be part of Italian life
(The Book of the Courtier), published in 1528,
he posited what he called the ‘universal rule
in all human afairs’: sprezzatura, a facade
of nonchalance that concealed the artistry
required to pull of challenges with aplomb,
regarded even at the time as both romantic
and deceptive in almost equal measure. Come
the 18th century and travellers on their Grand
Tour around Italy were commenting on the
way even the peasantry was well-dressed.
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Above (from lef): Berluti autumn/winter 2014/15; Silvano Latanzi artisans at work; Luigi Borrelli crafsmanship
Italian menswear has proved a major export precisely for its specific idea of refinement
The additions of Mediterranean culture,
with its sun-kissed body-consciousness,
Catholicism, with its rites and its regard
for imagery, and the the fact that the Italian
male still typically lives at home until he
is 30 – allowing for a transition of style
knowledge from father to son, such as
a ritualistic frst introduction to the family’s
preferred bespoke tailor – mean appearances
are always going to be part of Italian life.
The wider following of la bella fgura is often
attributed to Italy’s huge social and economic
expansion of the 1950s, when the Italian
fashion industry grew massively and frst
embraced marketing. But it is also
underpinned by a need to compete.
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With high art a constant background
everywhere from metropolis to backwater,
every Italian man sees tailoring’s broad
shoulders and nipped waist as a refection
of the idealised masculinity of Michelangelo’s
David and the calm composure of classical
Italian statuary. ‘The whole culture of art
means we appreciate anything that looks
good,’ says Milanese shoemaker Silvano
Lattanzi. ‘After all, we live amid beautiful
landscapes, Renaissance architecture,
we have frescoes in every tiny church.’
Like Italian art, Italian menswear has
proved a major export precisely for its specifc
idea of refnement. To refect la bella fgura it
must be ‘modern, relevant to now, not looking
to the past or to the future,’ argues Angeloni.
‘There’s a nod to tradition in the details –
working button cufs, the right stitching on
the lapel – which you have to have if you want
to sell a suit to an Italian man, details that
other men might not even be aware of.’
Men elsewhere are certainly waking
up to these details, however. A 2013 survey
conducted by the Boston Consulting Group
global management consultancy showed that
Italy still ranks internationally as the number
one manufacturing country for clothes,
accessories and jewellery, and number two
even for watches – despite having only one
luxury watch brand, Panerai. It seems that
la bella fgura’s art of lifestyle is catching on
globalblue.com
64 | FEATURES
SHOP | 65
Lef: view over Rome from Villa Sciarra/118 128134
The cobbled streets of Rome are well known to
the culturally informed traveller; from the Via
dei Condotti to the winding Via Veneto and the
Via degli Annibaldi, which runs alongside the
ancient Forum and takes one to the Colosseum,
the city’s thoroughfares can feel like familiar
old friends. These are the streets immortalised
The Trastevere district, once Rome’s poorer cousin, has evolved into a captivating neighbourhood full of enchanting streets, verdant parks and vibrant boutiques and restaurants. Stephen Doig explores
Beyond
The Tiber
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in literature and flms from Cleopatra to
Roman Holiday, with every nook and cranny
instantly recognisable. But what of the Rome
less travelled?
A short walk from Vatican City, by the
banks of the fast-fowing Tiber river, Trastevere
is a hidden jewel in Rome’s considerable
66 | FEATURES
Above (from top): Trastevere district and River Tiber; Via della Scala is an example of one of Trastevere’s cobbled streets
crown, a warren of narrow, cobbled streets
lined with sepia, periwinkle and safron-hued
villas and palazzos. It’s here that a cool cultural
scene has evolved in this most historical of
cities. The very name of the area, Trastevere,
points to the fact that it lies outside the regular
reaches of the Roman traveller – it translates
into English as ‘beyond the Tiber’. In the past,
this was Rome’s poor cousin; an area that,
due to its close proximity to the river, became
a haven for sailors and immigrants – it was
so far of the beaten track that in the medieval
period, the only way to access it from central
Rome was via a small wooden bridge.
The area’s cultural legacy is fascinating;
not for Trastevere the august honours of
hosting the city’s frst sons, flm directors
Federico Fellini and Luchino Visconti.
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Instead, in the 1960s and 1970s it became a haven for cutting-edge musicians and its winding streets, hung with ivy, were the birthplace of an experimental electronica movement in music. An audience that appreciates flm might, however, be familiar with one particularly captivating area of Trastevere: Gianicolo hill. It’s here that a central part of Oscar-winning flm The Great Beauty, released in 2013, was flmed; the movie captured the charm of the eternal city for a new era and is renowned for making the city its biggest and most sumptuously shot character.
Just a stone’s throw from Gianicolo hill, a series of green spaces point to Trastevere’s status as something of a garden in this built-up, frenetic city. The area is home to several sprawling parks, including the elegant Villa Sciarra, full of fountains and statues, the fascinating Orto Botanico and the extensive Villa Doria Pamphilj, the largest green space in the city, covering an impressive 445 acres.
Glass, Trastevere’s crowning culinary jewel, is a key place to visit
Above (from top): Campo dei Fiori market; one of Trastevere’s safron-hued villas
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70 | FEATURES
But it’s the piazza at Basilica di Santa Maria
that is the heart of the neighbourhood; the
church here is said to be founded on the spot
where a font of oil miraculously spouted when
Christ was born.
The area’s also a destination for food
enthusiasts, thanks to the hip bars, restaurants
and other attractions that heavily populate the
area, from the vibrant Campo dei Fiori market
to the quaint Da Lucia trattoria. The winding,
romantic streets, dotted with fairy lights and
with buildings draped in ivy, provide the
perfect backdrop to an al fresco evening with
a glass of Italian wine. Trastevere’s crowning
culinary jewel, Glass, is a key place to visit;
it’s Michelin-starred and boasts the world-
Above (from top): interior of Basilica di Santa Maria; Orto Botanico
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renowned Cristina Bowerman as its head chef.
The neighbourhood has evolved as
something of a style centre in recent years,
with niche boutique Annie and the elegant
Capito Primo atelier sitting alongside stores
that boast global names – a short walk across
the Tiber, the tiny Boccanera store ofers the
fnest in Italian footwear from Prada to Gucci.
Artisanal Italian craft is also on fne form
at Joseph Debach, renowned for handmade
shoes, the perfect companions for a few hours
wandering this enchanting district, a Roman
hidden gem
trattoriadalucia.com, glass-restaurant.it,
annieintrastevere.it, capitoloprimoatelier.net,
boccanera.it
The neighbourhood has evolved as something of a style centre in recent years
Above (clockwise from lef): Annie boutique; Boccanera footwear store; Glass restaurant
72 | FEATURES
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Gucci’s smart-casual snafe-bit loafer has been a design classic since it was launched 60 years ago. Gwyneth Holland explains why
The term ‘iconic’ is frequently overused in the
fashion world, but not every product, designer
or collection can become an icon. Gucci’s
snafe-bit loafer, however, was a classic from
the very start. Inspired by the easy, functional
style of the aristocratic guests at the Savoy hotel
in London where founder Guccio Gucci once
worked as a bellboy, the snafe-bit loafer was
launched by his son Aldo in 1953. Since then, PH
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Lef: Sophia loren wearing Gucci snafe-bit loafers on the set of la Moglie del Prete, 1970
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In Focus:
The
classic
Gucci
Loaferthe shoe has been worn by Hollywood stars
and sports stars, politicians, business magnates
and international playboys, and, along the way,
it has changed footwear forever.
The Gucci brand, now famous across
the world, started in a Florence saddlery in
1921 and equestrian-themed details pop up
throughout the brand’s collections, from its
red and green stripes, inspired by the strap
74 | FEATURES
Above (from top): the frst men’s Gucci snafe-bit loafer, 1953; the women’s version introduced in the 1960s
The shoe’s style is partly down to its unique structure: each pair is built by Gucci artisans over two-and-a-half days
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used to hold a saddle in place, to the double
ring and bar motif of the snafe bit (also known
as the horsebit). The snafe bit has appeared
on Gucci bags, belts and even Tom Ford-era
cut-out dresses, but never looks so at home as
on the front of the classic loafer.
The snafe-bit loafer is a slip-on shoe
made of supple leather, with an almond-shaped
toe, slim sole and bar across the foot. Despite
its simple looks, the loafer has had a major
impact on the way men dress: Gucci efectively
created a whole new category of footwear
for men when it launched the loafer in 1953.
Previously, men’s footwear was available only
in either extremely smart or very casual styles,
but this luxurious slip-on, crossing the ease
of a moccasin with the sleekness of a dress shoe,
became the original smart-casual footwear and
was quickly adopted by the international jet set.
The distinctive glint of the snafe bit became
a symbol of European chic for Hollywood
stars from Clark Gable and Fred Astaire to
Peter Sellers and John Wayne, with the style
swiftly adapted and taken up by leading ladies
too. But it’s not just the famous fans that have
made the style so iconic: the snafe-bit loafer
has long had an air of aspirational, continental-
style exoticism, whether worn sockless and
carefree on the Riviera, or with a sharp suit
on the streets of London or Milan.
76 | FEATURES
The shoe’s style is partly down to its unique
structure: each pair is built by Gucci artisans
over two-and-a-half days, using a tubular
construction technique that does away with
the insole and makes the shoe light, pliable
and comfortable. Once the shoe is constructed,
the leather is then hand-stained by a colour
specialist, giving each pair a unique look.
Although the snafe-bit loafer was originally
only available in safe black, brown and white
leather, the 45-strong range has now expanded
to include both bright and classic colours in
patent leather, suede, crocodile, python and
patterned canvas.
A women’s version of the shoe was
introduced in 1968, and has since been
embraced by stars including Sophia Loren and
Jodie Foster, who was snapped skateboarding
in her pair. More recently, Charlotte Casiraghi,
scion of Monaco’s royal family and amateur
show-jumper, starred in an equestrian-themed
2012 ad campaign sporting the loafers.
Above (from top): a Gucci artisan at work; women’s Gucci snafe-bit loafer, 1970s; a smarter, heeled version from autumn/winter 1995/96
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As with any product that’s been around
for decades, the snafe-bit loafer has had
ups and downs, sometimes literally. In the
1970s, the block heels of the men’s shoe rose
almost as high as the women’s version, while
90s versions bore chunky tyre-like treads. In
between, the instantly recognisable snafe bit
became a status symbol, as demonstrated by
Leonardo DiCaprio’s loafers in the recent flm
The Wolf of Wall Street.
The snafe-bit design may have had some
high-octane moments, but the original style
of the loafer remains truly timeless. After all,
it’s the only shoe to make it into the permanent
collection of New York’s Metropolitan Museum
of Art. Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini
has now returned the snafe-bit loafer to its
of-duty sweet spot through the new 1953
collection, launched to mark the loafer’s 60th
anniversary last year.
The reimagined loafer, worn with anything
from rolled-up chinos to a dress to a tuxedo,
has found a wealth of new fans across the
world, from style leaders Poppy Delevingne
and Li Bingbing to snappy dressers such as
actors Idris Elba and James Franco. A whole
new generation is rediscovering the easy
glamour of the iconic snafe-bit loafer – which
is only right for a shoe with one foot in the past
and one in the present
gucci.com
A whole new generation is rediscovering the easy glamour of the iconic snaffle-bit loafer
Above (from top): some of the loafer’s key components; women’s Gucci snafe-bit loafer, pre-fall 2014; the version for men from the same season
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80 | EXPER IENCE
Table TalkWith their produce-driven menus,
sleek modern interiors and exemplary
standards of service, rome’s
restaurants are among the world’s
fnest. Verity Hogan peruses the
menus of some the city’s very best
Given rome’s ancient ruins and rich history,
it is no surprise that the city’s cuisine is rooted
in tradition. regional specialities make the
most of local ingredients, relying on meat, fresh
vegetables, butter and sharp pecorino cheese.
Portions are often generous while favours are
rich and authentic.
Despite the prevalence of classic cuisine,
the city plays host to a wide variety of
restaurant types, ranging from checked-
tablecloth pizzerias to high-end gourmet
eateries. The most popular dining spots
combine both aspects of rome’s personality,
demonstrating respect for tradition but also
pushing the boundaries with new preparation
techniques and international ingredients.
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G i n G e r
Ginger’s bright, fresh all-
white interior refects the
restaurant’s menu of high-
quality, health-conscious
cuisine. ingredients are
central to Ginger’s ofering;
the majority are organic
and dishes are designed to
enhance natural favours.
expect options to include
grilled chicken breast with
rosemary potatoes and mint
yoghurt, caulifower pie
with walnuts, mixed herbs
and a cheese and tomato
gratin, and home-made
tortellini stufed with meat,
pecorino cheese and chilli
pepper. Be sure to try one of
the restaurant’s smoothies;
the healthiest boast added
bee pollen, aloe vera and
pomegranate.
Ginger,
Via Borgognona 43-44,
00187 rome,
+39 06 9603 6390,
ginger.roma.itPH
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L9
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82 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
K e t u m b a r
Ketumbar in the testaccio district has
become one of rome’s most popular
restaurants due to its menu of authentic
regional cuisine, exclusive use of high-
quality ingredients and extensive selection
of fne wines and craft beers. the restaurant
strikes the perfect balance between tradition
and modernity, with a minimalist interior
interspersed with pieces of ancient roman
amphora. Dishes are health-conscious yet
favourful; typical choices include fettucine
with shrimp and avocado, beer-marinated
pork fllet with a celeriac purée, and baked
cod with smoked pepper cream.
Ketumbar,
Via Galvani 24, 00153 rome,
+39 06 5730 5338,
ketumbar.it
m a r z a p a n e
marzapane’s Sicilian roots are evident in its
friendly, unpretentious atmosphere and the
sensory experience provided by its cuisine.
the restaurant’s décor takes inspiration from
paris, combined with a modern minimalism
enhanced by a monochrome colour scheme
and aged wood accents. Dishes range from
an appetiser of sweetbreads, noisette potatoes,
aged balsamic and liquorice to main courses
such as braised beef cheek with puf pastry,
creamy celeriac and shiitake mushrooms.
Marzapane,
Via Velletri 39, 00198 rome,
+39 06 6478 1692, marzapaneroma.com
PH
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el
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Guide
84 | GUIDE
Above: View of the Spanish steps from Piazza di Spagna
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a look
at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest pasticcerias to the coolest
concept stores. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with
expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and
detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.
A GLIMPSE OF ROME
Rome’s Spanish Steps are one of the city’s most famous landmarks – and one
of its best. Take a seat at the very top to watch the world go by below or gain
an insight into the life of the Romantic poets with a visit to the adjacent Keats-
Shelley House museum.
Ph
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Mo
re
no
Ma
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86 | GUIDE
globalblue.com
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
‘With cultural attractions to be
found around every street corner,
Rome is, without a doubt, one of
the world’s most beautiful cities’
– Katie Ramsingh,
Global Blue’s online assistant
SHOP | 87
Follow our team’s travels on
Instagram @globalblue. Tag
us in your city pictures when
sharing them and you might
see them in print!
PH
OT
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: AL
EX
AN
DR
A C
OS
SH
AM
; CH
RIS
TIN
A G
EO
RG
IOU
; DO
MIN
IQU
E F
EN
N; K
AT
IE R
AM
SIN
GH
; PE
AC
HE
S Z
HA
NG
; VE
RIT
Y H
OG
AN
88 | GUIDE
Rome
Place Of Interest Metro
VIA
EZ
IO
VIA DEI CAPPELLARI
VIA DEI GR ACCHI
VIA DEI GR ACCHI
VIA DEI GRACCHI
VIA GERMANICO
VIA POMPEO MAGNO
VIA POMPEO MAGNO
VIA
DE
I PE
NIT
EN
ZIE
RI
VIA
LE
DE
LL
E M
UR
A A
UR
EL
IE
VIA
GIU
LIA
VIA
GIU
LIA
VIA DEI BANCH I NUOVI
VIA DEL GOVERNO VECCHIO
VIA DEI CORONARI
VIA DEGLI SCIPIONI
VIA DEGLI SCIPIONI
VIA
SIL
LA
VIA
DE
I BA
NC
HI V
ECCH
I
VIA DI MO
NS
ER
RA
TO
VIA DEL PELLEGRINO
VIA
DI PA
NICO
VIA
DI S
AN
TA
MA
RIA
DE
LL'A
NIM
A
BORGO SANTO SPIRITO
VIA
AL
ES
SA
ND
RO
FA
RN
ES
E
VIA PLINIO
VIA VALADIERV
IA M
AR
CA
NT
ON
IO C
OL
ON
NA
V
IA C
ICE
RO
NE
VIA GIUSEPPE GIOACHINO BELLI
VIA
TAC
ITO
VIA
TAC
ITO
VIA
OR
AZ
IO
VIA
PA
OL
O E
MIL
IO V
IA O
VID
IOVIA BOEZIO
VIA ENNIO QUIRINO VISCONTI
VIA
FA
BIO
MA
SS
IMO
VIA
TE
RE
NZ
IO
VIA ALBERICO II
VIA STEFANO PORCARI VIA GIOVANNI VITELLESCHI
VIA
DE
GL
I OM
BR
EL
LA
RI
VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE
VIA
DI P
OR
TA
AN
GE
LIC
A
LUN
GO
TE
VE
RE
GIA
NIC
OL
EN
SE
VIA
VIR
GIL
IO
VIA
BA
RL
ET
TA
V
IA O
TT
AV
IAN
O
CO
RS
O D
EL
RI N
AS
CIM
EN
TO
CORSO VITTO
RIO EMA
NU
ELE II
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
LUNGOTEVERE TOR DI NONA LUNG OTEVERE M
ARZIO
LUN
GO
TE
VE
RE
DE
L SA
NG
ALLO
VIA COLA DI RIENZO
VIA COLA DI RIENZO
VIA CRESCENZIO VIA CRESCENZIO
VIA DEI COR R IDORI BORGO SANT'ANGELO
VIALE GIULIO CESARE
VIALE GIULIO CESARE
LU
NG
OT
EV
ER
E M
ICH
EL
AN
GE
LO
LUN
GO
TE
VE
RE
DE
I ME
LL
INI
VIA VITTORIA COLONNA Piazza
Adriana
PiazzaCavour
Piazzadella
Libertà
PIAZZANAVONA
LEPANTO
OTTAVIANOSAN PIETRO -MUSEI VATICANI
PIAZZA SAN PIETRO
VIA DELLACONCILIAZIONE
CASTEL SANT’ANGELO
PALAZZODI GIUSTIZIA
PONTESANT'ANGELO
PiazzaDei
Quiriti
Piazza DelRisorgimento
page
110
page
108
globalblue.com
SHOP | 89
VIA LAZIO
V
IA SARDEGNA
VIA DEI PREFETTI
VIA DELLA MERCEDE
VIA
XI
X
VM
AG
GIO
VIA D
EL QUIR
INALE
V
IA V
ENTI SETTEM
BRE
VIMINAL HILL
VIA I V NOVEMBRE
VIA
DE
LL
A P
ILO
TT
A
VIA DEL SE MINARIO
VIA
DE
LL
A R
OT
ON
DA
VIA DEL POZZO
VIA M
AR
GU
TTA
VIA VITTORIA
VIA FR ATTINA
VIA DELLE COPPELLE
VIA DELL'UMILTÀ VIA DELLA DATARIA V
IA MILA
NO
VIA M
ILAN
O
VIA LUDOVISI
VIA BONCOMPAGNI
VIA LOMBARDIA
VIA SICILIA
VIA D
I SA
N B
ASIL
IO
VIA LIGURIA
VIA DELL A CROCE
VIA
LE G
ABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO
VIALE TRINITÀ DEI M
ON
TI
VIA SISTINA
VIA SISTINA
VIA DELLE QUATTRO FONTANE
VIA
FR
AN
CE
SC
O C
RIS
PI
V
IA D
I PO
RTA
PIN
CIA
NA
VIA
LE SAN
PAOLO
DEL BR
ASILE
VIA N
AZIONALE
VIA N
AZIONALE
VIA
DI R
IPE
TT
A
VIA CONDOTTI
VI A DEL PLEBISCITO
VIA D
EL BABU
INO
VIA D
EI DU
E MACELLI
VIA
VIT
TO
RIO
VE
NE
TO
VIA
L E DEL MURO TORTO
CORSO D'IT ALIAVIA PINCIANA
VIA DEL TRITONE
VIA DEL TRITONE
VIA BARBERINI
VIA
DE
L C
OR
SO
VIA
DE
L C
OR
SO
VIA
DE
L C
OR
SO
VIA
DE
L C
OR
SO
VIA TOMACELLI
Piazza DelPopolo
PiazzaColonna
PiazzaVenezia
Piazza diSan Silvestro
PiazzaBarberini
Piazza delParlamento
PiazzaDella
Rotonda
FONTANADI TREVI
SANT’IGNAZIO
SANTA MARIASOPRA MINERVA
PANTHEON
PALAZZO DIMONTECITORIO
COLONNA AURELIA
PIAZZA DISAN LORENZO
IN LUCINA
VIA FONTANELLABORGHESE
PiazzaAugustoImperatore
MAUSOLEODI AUGUSTO
VILLA BORGHESE
SPAGNA
BARBERINIFONTANA DI TREVI
PIAZZADI SPAGNA
TRINITÀDEI MONTI
PiazzaMignanelli
page
98
page
98
page
104page
102
page
102
page
108
page
100
page
96
page
106
page
95
page
92
page
90
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
90 | GUIDE
Featured In This Issue
Tridente Area
Via del Babuino Via Margutta
PH
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XX
XX
XX
VIA
MA
RIO
DE
’FIO
RI
VIA
LE
DE
LL
A T
RIN
ITÀ
DE
I MO
NT
I
VIA
MA
RG
UT
TA
VIA DI GESU E MARIA
VIA DI SAN GIACOMO
VIA DEI GRECI
VIA DELLE FONTANELLA
VIA VITTORIA VIA ALIBERT
VIA LAURINA
VIA
DE
L B
AB
UIN
O
VIA
DE
L B
AB
UIN
O
V
IA D
EL
CO
RS
O
VIA DELLA CROCE VIA DI SAN SEBASTIANELLOPiazza Di Spagna
● LELLI
● EMMA OTTO
● GOFFI CARBONI
● SADDLERS UNION
● DALIDA'
● SERGIO NESCI
● ARTEMIDE
● MARCHETTI
● BRUNO MURATORI
● CAMPAIOLA
● MARGUTTA OTTICA
● VUELLE
● E&R DANON
● PRATESI
● VENEZIANI
● RICHARD DI CASTRO
● ANIMALIER E OLTRE
● COCOZZA
● CONSORTI
● MUCCI
● IL MARMORARO
● MASSONI
● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE
● PALAZZO MARGUTTA
● FLAIR
● MONOGRAMMA
● MONIES
● ENIGMA
BONUCCELI ●
GROSSI MAURIZIO ●
ARTEMIDE ●
GALLERIA VITTORIA ●
MARGUTTA 102 ●
PROFUMERIA HB ●
TROLLBEADS ●
RED VALENTINO ●
NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ●
SERRA ●
CINOA ●
MARIO OASI ●
COEN ●
LA NUVOLA ●
RINALDI ●
MARGUTTA FACTORY ●
LA PALLINA ●
GIO
VA
NN
IR
AS
PIN
I ●
FR
AT
EL
LI P
ET
OC
CH
I ●
VIA DI SAN GIACOMO
VIA DEI GRECI
VIA MARGUTTA
VIA
DE
LB
AB
UIN
OV
IAD
EL
BA
BU
INO
VIA VITTORIA
VIA ALIBERT
VIA
DE
LC
OR
SO
VIA
LAURINA
VIA
BO
CC
AD
IL
EO
NE
VIA DELLE CARROZZE
Piazza Di Spagna
● 100% CAPRI● DE GRISOGONO● PALAZZO FABI● BOGGI● CHOPARD
● HERVÉ LÉGER● DODO● RIENZI● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA● VOGUE SHOP● BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE● TORY BURCH● NOBEL
● MANNI MATASSI● JO MALONE● DE NICOLA● D'AVOSSA GIOIELLI● SAVE THE QUEEN!
● SANDRO FERRONE
● CARLUCCI
● AAA
● SANDRO
● HB PROFUMERIE
● DAVID MAYER NAMAN
● TUMI
● CANALI● FRATELLI ROSSETTI● RED VALENTINO● HAUSMANN & CO ● IL GUFO● MISS GRANT● CREAM● VHERNIER● ARMANI JEANS
● SERAPIAN● STONE ISLAND● GENTE
● GENTE● FLOS● PIAZZA SEMPIONE● ICEBERG● MIU MIU
● PINKO● KIEHLS● ERMANNO SCERVINO● CHANEL● ETRO● CIR● MATTIOLI● COSTUME NATIONAL
OTTICA SPEZIA ●CESARI ●GENTE ●
CESARE LAMPRONTI ●LA TESSITURA D’ARTE ●
PUNTO PELLE ●RIENZI ●
FILATELIA ●CESARE LAMPRONTI ●
FABRIANO ●VIA DEL BABUINO 167 ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
MARIO LUCCHESE ●MALÌPARMI ●
MAJE ●FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ●
MOSCHINO ●LEO PIZZO ●
ROY ROGERS ●
E-GO ●ROSATO ●
RUCOLINE ●
GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ●
BALDININI ●F.M. MEGNA ●ANTEPRIMA ●
ASPESI ●TOY WATCH ●ANTONACCI ●
EMPORIO ARMANI ●ANTIQUARIO ●
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN●
W. A POLLONI ●
KITON ●DECORARTE ●
MAC ●HERZEL DE BACH ●
VILEBREQUIN●
TIFFANY & CO. ●I PINCO PALLINO ●
HOGAN ●
P.45
Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
92 | GUIDE
Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone
VIA CONDOTTIVIA CONDOTTI
VIA
SIS
TIN
A
VIA
GR
EG
OR
IAN
AV
IAB
EL
SIA
NA
VIA
BE
LS
IAN
AVIA VITTORIA
VIA VITTORIA VIA ALIBERT
VIA DELL A CROCE
VIA DELL A CROCE
VIA DELLE CARROZZE
VIA DELLE CARROZZE
VIA BORGOGNONA VIA BORGOGNONAV
IAB
OC
CA
DI
LE
ON
EV
IAB
OC
CA
DI
LE
ON
E
VIA FR ATTINA
VIA FR ATTINA
VIA DI SAN SEBASTIANELLO
VIA
LE
DE
LL
AT
RIN
ITÀ
DE
IM
ON
TI
VIA
DE
LB
AB
UIN
O
Piazza Di Spagna
PiazzaMignanelli
WP
ST
OR
E ●
FR
ET
TE
●
ES
CA
DA
●
DI C
AS
TR
O ●
LO
RIB
LU
●
ME
NIC
HIN
I ●
● FURLA
● ACQUA DI PARMA
● IWC
● NESPRESSO
● VALENTINO
● BRUNO CALO
● PIER CARANTI
SERGIOROSSI ●
PURA LOPEZ ●DOLCE &
GABBANA ●JAGER LE
COULTRE ●EFRATI ●
CASADEI ● EMILIO PUCCI ●
LONGCHAMP ●
SANTONI ●MISSONI ●
DIOR ● CAMPER ●
LOEWE ●
SEPHORA ●
SERMONETA ●
DI CORI ●
ROSSATI ●
ALEXANDER ●
● VERSACE
● DIESEL
● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING
● ANITA ROMANI
● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO
● CARNEVALI● AMINA RUBINACCI● CORRADINI
● LA BARBERA ● ZINTALA● GIORGIA R
● CHRISTOFLE
● BLUGIRL
● LITHOS
● EMPORIO SAN FIRENZE
● BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO
● CESARE PACIOTTI
SAINT LAURENT ●
SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ●
ALBERT MOLAYEM ●
LA PERLA ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●
TINA ●
MARNI ●
WHO'S WHO ●
● BLU GIRL
VIAGREGORIANA
VIADEIDUEMACELLI
VIADEIDUEMACELLI
VIA DI CAPO LE CASE
VIADIPROPAGANDA
● CHIURATO MICHELE
● EDITH B
● HOSS INTROPIA
● PINEIDER
● TAMMARO
● ULISSE GALLERY
● OTTICA BILECI
● JACKSON
● PINKO
● PELLETTERIA FLACCO
● EDISON
● RALPH
● VICTORY
● KAMINSKY
● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI
● CARPISA
MANDARINADUCK ●
METTIMI GIÙ ●ILLY SHOP ●
59/A ●RED & BLUE ●
ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO ●CASTELLO D’AURIA ●
RENARD ●
GABRIEL STORE ●
BATA ●
VICTORY ●
I-D ●
ROSA FISH ●
PC X TE ●
VIA DEI GRECI
VIA
BE
LS
IAN
A
VIA
BO
CC
A D
I LE
ON
E
VIA
MA
RIO
DE
’FIO
RI
VIA VITTORIA VIA VITTORIA
VIA
DE
L B
AB
UIN
O
VIA DELLA CROCE
VIA
DE
L C
OR
SO
BA
RB
AR
A
GR
EG
OR
I ●
RIG
AD
RIT
TO
●
AL
ES
SA
ND
RE
LL
I ●
NIA
& C
O ●
LE
SL
EY
●
OR
TIG
IA ●
TH
E V
ER
DE
●
TE
A R
OS
E ●
SA
MS
ON
ITE
●
BE
RT
OL
ET
TI ●
LA
DIA
●
DE
CA
RL
IS
BO
RB
ON
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RO
BE
RT
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●
RO
BE
RT
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IAG
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JOD
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●T
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● U
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VIS
GA
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UA
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● N
IA
● L
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RA
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PO
MA
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0●
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SE
NT
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GA
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● F
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MP
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● L
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NE
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& N
EC
K●
SC
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MO
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● F
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● D
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●
DA
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● V
VIT
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● G
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● B
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● IL
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● O
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● A
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Via Vittoria Via dei Due Macelli
P.52
P.53
P.108
globalblue.com
SHOP | 95
Via Belsiana, Via Mario de’ Fiori & Via del Gambero
VIA DELLE CARROZZE
VIA BORGOGNONA VIA BORGOGNONA
VIA DELLA VITE
VIA
LE
DE
LL
A T
RIN
ITA
DE
L M
ON
TI
VIA
GR
EG
OR
IAN
A
VIA
DE
L G
AM
BE
RO
V
IA B
EL
SIA
NA
V
IA B
EL
SIA
NA
V
IA B
EL
SIA
NA
VIA
BO
CC
A D
I LE
ON
E
VIA
BO
CC
A D
I LE
ON
E
VIA
DI
PR
OP
AG
AN
DA
VIA
MA
RIO
DE
’FIO
RI V
IA M
AR
IO D
E’F
IOR
I
VIA VITTORIA
VIA ALIBERT
VIA
DE
L B
AB
UIN
O
VIA DELLA CROCE
VIA DELL A CROCE
VIA CONDOTTI VIA CONDOTTI
VIA FR ATTINA VIA FR ATTINA
VIA
DI
SA
N S
EB
AS
TIA
NE
LL
O
V
IA D
EL
CO
RS
O
VIA
DE
L C
OR
SO
VIA
DE
I DU
E M
AC
EL
LI
Piazza Di Spagna
PiazzaMignanelli
BABY PRATESI ●
BARTON'S ●
ORAFO ●
HENRY BEGUELIN ●
●
L'ANELLERIA ●
CASTIELLO ●
BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ●
BORGHINI ●
MARCHIONNIGIOIELLI ●
VINTAGE ●ALBERTA FERRETTI ●
NIKI NIKA ●
MALO ●
BEAUTY POINT ●
RUCOLINE ●
HAVAIANAS ●
NIA OUTLET ●
PANCRISIA ●LAURA
BIAGIOTTI ●
BADURA ●
IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●
WATCH POINT ●
MADE IN ITALY ●
● MALO ACCESSORI
● LUIGI BORRELLI
● ZOPPIA
● ILEANA DELLA CORTE
● I CARTAI● IL LACCIO● FLORENCE MOON● C.U.C.I.N.A.
● WOLFORD● MANUELE ZOO● MARTINO MIDALI
● BL GIOIELLI
● BRACCIALINI
● CAMEO CENTER
● LA MERCERIA ● WORLD ORIGINAL WATCH
● BARTON'S
● LA VIE VOLEUSE
● CORNER● MONTBLANC● JAJA CAMICERIA
● COSE● TIZIANA MODIANO
● FABRIS
● UNDUETRE
● GIOIELLI DI COCO’
● GREMESE
● CHOSES
● GIOIELLERIA MARONI
● MOSTROLEO
● TRONCONI
● GHERARDINI
● BOZART
● DOMUS CALZATURE
● FGF STORE
● CHIARA BLUMATTIOLO ●
● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA
● VIVANTI
● AVIREX
● KLIP
PITRAN ●
VALAMBERT ●
FRANCESCHINI ●
Blumarine
Blumarine’s collections are innately feminine; designer anna molinari creates pieces that accentuate the fgure with fattering silhouettes and emphasised waists. Her collections combine a sense of fun with high-end fabrics, including lace, brocade, chifon and faux fur. Signature pieces include cashmere cardigans with mink collars, T-shirts emblazoned with Swarovski brand logos and items featuring leopard-rose print. For autumn/winter 2014, expect to fnd rich jewel tones accented with leather.
Blumarine, Via Borgognona 31, 00187 rome, +39 06 679 0951, blumarine.com
* for map go to page 96
Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
96 | GUIDE
Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce
VIA BORGOGNONA
VIA
BE
LS
IAN
A V
IA B
EL
SIA
NA
VIA
BE
LS
IAN
A V
IA B
EL
SIA
NA
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Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
98 | GUIDE
PH
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XX
XX
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Via del Corso Area
Via del Corso (North) Via del Corso (Central)
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Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
100 | GUIDE
Via del Corso (South)
VIA DI PIETR A VIA DELLE MUR ATTE
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TIBER ●BARONE ●
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Marina rinaldi
With a collection that exemplifes
high-end elegance, Marina rinaldi’s
rome boutique caters to the city’s more
voluptuous citizens. The label specialises
in pieces that fatter curvaceous fgures,
ofered alongside a range of shoes and
accessories. There is a line available to
suit any occasion, ranging from the laid-
back sport collection to the travel-ready
voyage range. The label is committed
to using the highest quality fabrics and
applying meticulous attention to tailoring,
while keeping abreast of current trends.
Marina Rinaldi,
Via Borgognona 4-5,
00187 rome,
+39 06 6920 0487,
marinarinaldi.com
* for map go to page 96
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
102 | GUIDE
1. Nora P
Fans of shabby chic styling and those looking to emulate a
vintage aesthetic in their homes will fnd much to excite their
imaginations at Nora P. The boutique specialises in rescuing
forgotten items, with a number of antiques and carefully
restored heritage pieces found among the collection, but also
offers a range of quirky contemporary pieces with a similar
aesthetic. The selection on offer is delightfully eclectic; items
available range from lamps and armchairs to original works
of art.
Nora P,
Via Panisperna 220-221,
00184 Rome,
+39 06 4547 3738,
nora-p.com
Featured In This Issue
Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite,
Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone
Via del Tritone Area
VIA
DEL MORTARO V
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● BRIC’S
● DE LILLO
Metro
ROME’S TOP iNTERiORS STORES1
globalblue.com
SHOP | 103
2. Zara Home
Known for its textiles, Zara Home’s collection is one of Rome’s
most versatile. The range is constantly updated and offers
everything from bed linens to tableware.
Zara Home,
Via Cola di Rienzo 225-229, 00192 Rome,
+39 06 3260 9280, zarahome.com
* for map go to page 110
3. Muji
Japanese label Muji is known for promoting a minimalist
sense of style with pieces that are as functional as they
are aesthetically pleasing. Items are universally high
quality, and its plain designs work well in any space.
Muji,
Via del Tritone 199-200,
00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2053,
muji.eu
VIA DI SAN NICOLA DA TOLENTINO
VIA
MO
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VIA
DE
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A P
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AZ
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VIA DEI C
APPUCCINI
VIA
GR
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VIA R ASELLA VIA R ASELLA
VIA R ASELLA
VIA
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VIA DEGLI AVIGNONESI
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VIA
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VIA BARBERINI
VIA DI CAPO LE CASE
VIA
FR
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SC
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PI
VIA
SIS
TINA
VIA
SIS
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VIA IN ARCIONE
VIA
DEI S
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VIA
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VIA
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VIA DEL TRITONE
V
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VIA
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● P
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CC
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Piazza Barberini
BARBERINI
FONTANA DI TREVI
BR
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ALT
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S ●
GATTINONI ●
3
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Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
104 | GUIDE
Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina
VIA
DI
PA
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AC
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V
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LA
LU
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VIA DELLA VITE
VIA FR ATTINA
VIA
DE
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VIA IN LUCINA
V
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NA
V
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GA
MB
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VIA
DE
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A M
AD
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VIA DEGLI UFFICI DEL VICARIO
V
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LA
MIS
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NE
VIA DEL LEONE
VIA BORGOGNONA
VIA
VIA DEI PREFETTI
VIA DELLA MERCEDE
VIA
ME
TA
ST
AS
IO
VICOLO DI SAN BIAGIO
V
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LO
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VIA DEL CLEMENTINO
VIA
CA
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Piazza delParlamento
Piazza diSan Lorenzo
in Lucina
● CAMPO MARZIO● VITTORIO BAGAGLI
● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET● CAMPO MARZIO 9
● SCOTIA ● LEGHILA
● INGLOT● PAUL TAYLOR
● CENTODIECI ● ALAIN PAINE
● IL CAMICIAIO
● BUFFETTI● ARENA
● CAMPO MARZIO 70● EMPRESA
● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND● BORSALINO
● OFFICINA SLOWEAR ● MIGLIORANZA
● STURNI
● OTTICA AL PARLAMENTO
ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ●
BANCHETTI ●JUST DESIGN ●
NEGRI ●PAS DE ROUGE ●
CAPUA CASHMERE ●
CALZATURE CAMPO MARZIO ● GOLF & GOLF ● SUPERCASA ●
ETIQUETA NEGRA ● BECCACECE ●
GINTEL ● EMPRESA ●
MONOCLE ●
TIE SHOP ●
MODARI ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
HERMÈS ●
DAVIDE CENCI ●
TEBRO ●
● FG ALBERTELLI
CRUCIANI ●
BROOKS BROTHERS ● ● NIKI NIKAIOSSELLIANI R-01-IOS ●
FRANK LO ●
Antico Caffè Vitti
1. Antico Caffè Vitti
A bastion of tradition, Antico Caffè Vitti is known for its freshly
baked pastries and delicious homemade ice-cream.
Antico Caffè Vitti,
Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 33,
00186 Rome, +39 06 687 6304,
caffetteriavittiroma.it
2. Biscottifcio Innocenti
Biscottifcio Innocenti’s large oven has a conveyor belt to
ensure its biscuits are always evenly baked.
Biscottificio Innocenti,
Via della Luce 21,
00153 Rome,
+39 06 580 3926
3. Andreotti
The Andreotti pasticceria is one of the oldest in the city;
opened in 1931, it prides itself on upholding the principles
that have helped it stand the test of time. Quality is of utmost
importance, along with the use of fresh ingredients.
Andreotti, Via Ostiense 54, 00154 Rome,
+39 06 575 0773, andreottiroma.it
Rome’s PeRfeCt PAstICCeRIAs
3
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Café
Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
106 | GUIDE
Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia
Via Vittorio Veneto Area
VIAAURORA
VIACADORE
VIAEMILIA
VIAMARCHE
VIALIGURIA
VIALOMB
ARDIA
VIASIC
ILIA
VIALAZIO
VIASARD
EGNA
VIADIPORTAPINCIANA
VIALUDO
VISI
VIALUDO
VISI
VIABO
NCOM
PAGN
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VIAVITTORIOVENETO
● ZILLI
● DE SIMONE
● CASUCCIO & SCALERA
● DE PASCALIS
● GOLD SKIN
● TRUCCHI
● ARSENIO
● CARRY ON JUNIOR
● BRIONI
ZILLI ●
CAVIGLIA ●
TARASCIO JAEGER-
LE COULTRE ●
LUISA SPAGNOLI ●
ELIZABETH ●
ZILLI ●
EXCELSIOR GALLERY ●
GLOVES ●
VERSACE ●
GIOIELLERIA CAPUANO ●
LUCIANO PADOVAN ●
RAPHAEL ●
ANDREW'S TIES ●
RINALDI ●
ALBERTINA ●
HELENE PROFUMERIA ●
CASATO GIOIELLI ●
NIMA & RAY ●
Italy’s coffee culture has an international reputation for
excellence and enjoying an espresso at the bar of a Roman
caffè is an experience not to be missed. However, in order to
get exactly what you want, it’s important to be precise. For an
espresso, ask for ‘un caffè’, for coffee with a drop of milk, order
‘un caffè macchiato’ and for a long black coffee, request either
‘un caffè lungo’ or ‘un caffè all’american’.
TOP TIP
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108 | GUIDE
Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Pantheon & Navona Area
Via della Maddalena, Piazza Capranica, Via degli Orfani, Via della Minerva, Salita de’ Crescenzi & Piazza della Rotonda
VICOLODELGOVERNOVECCHIO
VIA DEL CORALLO
VIASORA
VIADELLACHIES
ANUOVA
VICOLOSAVELLI
VICOLODELLACANCELLERIA
VIADELTEATROPACE
VIADI PARIONE
VIADELG
OVERNOVECCHIO
VIADELGOVERNOVECCHIO
CORSOVITTORIOEMANUELEII
VICOLODELFICO
VIADELLAFOSSA
V IA DEI G
ABRIE
LLI
VICOLODELLEVACCHE
●KO
LBY
MID
ALI ●
GIO
IELLERIA
GO
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●
BI- N
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CIVIC
O 9
3 ●
EL.DA
N.G
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LUN
A & L
’ALTR
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●D
ELFINA D
ELETTREZ
●JO
SEPHIN
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● ALEX SHOES
● ALCHEMILLA
● VALLI
● ARSENICO
● UTILE & FUTILE
● VIVIANA
● MERCURIO
● ARLETTY
NICOTRA ●
VIA DEL SEMINARIO
VIA
DE
LL
A M
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RV
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VIA DELLE COPPELLE
VIA DEI PASTINI
V. D
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OR
FA
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VIA C. ANTONINA
VIA
D. M
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NA
SALITA DE’CRESCENZI VIA
D. R
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VIA DEL POZZO
PiazzaRondanini
● R
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● PANTHEON 70
PiazzaCapranica
DEGLI EFFETTI ●MASSIMILIANO ARPIGA ●
● EX● DANAE● CARTOLERIA DEL PANTHEON● DANI● TOTEM● TESTONI
TH
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LA
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CL
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●
IL P
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●
ST
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●●
● CAMPER
● OTTICA VERGERIO
● A. CENCI● CASALI● GIORENMENTA ● GLOVES● KLKSTEREO ● SOUND
PiazzaDella
Rotonda
● MI & CHI
BARUFFI ● STILOFETTI●
● TERRACINA
● COSIMO COLONNA
DEGLI● EFFETTI
DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ●
ARTE ORAFA ●
LE ARTIGIANEDI ROMA ●
PANTHEON
●D
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NZ
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FF
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ST
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BU
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Via del Governo Vecchio
Place Of Interest
1. Fleur Luxury Living
Fleur Luxury Living boutique’s extensive product range covers
everything from fashion and homeware to coffee-table books,
candles and perfumes.
Fleur Luxury Living, Via Bocca di Leone 46, 00187 Rome,
+39 06 6992 3705, fleurluxuryliving.it
* for map go to page 92
2. White Gallery
White Gallery’s eclectic product range runs the gamut from
designer fashion to jewellery and fragrances.
White Gallery, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 18-19,
00144 Rome, +39 06 5427 7400,
whitegallery.it
3. Spazio If
A corner of Sicily in the heart of Rome, Spazio If stocks
exclusively Sicilian products in an environment that is part
boutique, part gallery. Expect handmade leather bags and
hand-embellished bikinis, available alongside works by
local artists.
Spazio If, Via dei Coronari 44A, 00186 Rome,
+39 06 6476 0639, spazioif.it
3
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ROME’S CHIC CONCEPT STORES
Global Blue Retailer
110 | GUIDE
Featured In This IssueNon-Global Blue Retailer
Via Cola di Rienzo Area
Via Cola di Rienzo
VIA OR AZIO
VIA EZIO
VIA TACITO
VIA ATTILIO REGOLO VIA VIRGILIO
VIA ALESSANDRO FARNESE VIA LUCREZIO CARO
VIA MARCANTONIO COLONNA VIA CICERONE
VIA
CO
LA
DI R
IEN
ZO
● IRON G
● VERONICA TOSCANO
● SWAROVSKI
● EMPRESA
● PLAY LIFE
● TRANCANELLI
● LA TAVOLA ELEGANTE
● THE BRIDGE
● CLICHÈ
● GAJ ALDO
● 3● MILK● FOLLIE ● CARLA G● SUB DUED● BRANDY & MELVILLE
● MANI DI FATA
● MAGAZINE
● GEOX
● NIKE
● CROSSETTE
● YAMAMAY
CELLUPRICA ●
PULL STOP ●
PENNY BOUTIQUE ●
GIORGIO RUBEN ●
DIEGO CATALDI ●INSUPERABITI ●
MANILA GRACE ●ARMONY ●
FORNARINA●
BALLIN ●
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●
TRU TRUSSARDI ●INTIMISSIMI ●
KIKO ●SWATCH ●
COIN EXCELSIOR ●
TIFFANY ●
DESIGN OPTICAL ●
VIA SILL A
VIA FABIO MASSIMO VIA TERE NZIO
VIA PAOLO E MILIO VIA OVIDIO
VIA PROPERZIO
V
IA C
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A D
I RIE
NZ
O
● YAMAMAY
● DI NEPI
● RAFI RUBEN● 7 CAMICIE● ESOTICA● BRIAN CRESS● PAUL TAYLOR● OPTISSIMO● ABITART● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI
● CASAGRANDE● ROSAKI
● EREDI PISANÒ
● BEVERLY HILLS● OTTICA ● FURLA
● LOVABLE● THE BODY SHOP● ACCESSORIZE
● HALFON● MAMILLA● GENTE OUTLET● NAU !● RAGGI● LIU JO● PAUL BIANCO● BOGGI
● MANDARINA DUCK
● FELLINI
● PULL LOVE
● RAGGI
● DICKINSON
TIFFANY ●
GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ●
TIM ●LUIS SPAGNOLI ●
CHOPIN●
BENETTON ●DANY BABY ●
STEFENAL ●
ZARA HOME ●DAVID SADDLER ●
MISS SIXTY ●SABON ●
TWIN-SET ●FRANCESCHINI ●
COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ●
FABIO DE MARCO ●
TOMMY HILFIGER ●LIZA ●
FAMAR ●
TOWER ●
WEEKEND MAX MARA ●
ANN GIGLI ●ANGELO DI NEPI ●
ASOLE E BOTTONI ●MAX MARA ●
GENTE ●FELLINI ●
COLLAGE ●TIMBERLAND ●
GUESS ●NARA CAMICIE ●
CHLO ●SISLEY ●
PETIT BATEAU ●TIM ●
TATIE ●ORIGINAL MARINES ●
Galleria Borghese
The collection housed by Galleria Borghese is based on
sculptures and paintings gathered by Cardinal Scipione
Borghese more than three centuries ago. Pieces from a wide
range of eras feature, including ancient, Renaissance and
contemporary movements.
Galleria Borghese,
Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5, 00197 Rome,
+39 06 841 3979,
galleriaborghese.it
Musei Vaticani
One of Rome’s largest museums, the Musei Vaticani boasts 54
galleries flled with myriad treasures.
Musei Vaticani, Viale Vaticano, 00165 Rome,
+39 06 6988 4676,
museivaticani.va
MAXXI
MAXXI museum’s contemporary art catalogue includes
theatre, music, fashion, graphics, flm and advertising.
MAXXI National Museum of XXI Century Arts,
Via Guido Reni 4A, 00196 Rome,
+39 06 320 1954,
fondazionemaxxi.it
ROME’S MUST-SEE MUSEUMS
P.103
112 | GUIDE
Above: view of the Villa Borghese gardens from the Softel hotel
MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: GaEtaNO COsta
Businessman and chef Gaetano Costa is known for his
artistic take on haute cuisine. He is currently chef at the
Red Library restaurant in Rome’s Hotel Boscolo Aleph
Roma and at the newly opened Le Roof. He tells Isabella
Redmond Styles about his favourite spots in Rome’s
Parioli neighbourhood and across the city
gaetanocosta.net
‘My favourite area is the Parioli district as
it combines wonderful green spaces with
the elegance of one of Rome’s most afuent
areas. The adjacent Flaminio district also
has plenty to ofer, from great museums
to fantastic architecture and impressive
villas. I always recommend visiting the
Auditorium, designed by Renzo Piano,
and the MAXXI art gallery, designed
by Zaha Hadid. For those with romance
in mind, it’s hard to beat a stroll over the
ancient Ponte Milvio, which is covered
with locks left by couples as a token of
everlasting love.
‘The Parioli district is known for its
fashionable bars and restaurants, and the
highlight of this area is Villa Borghese,
Rome’s most famous public park. As my
new restaurant, Le Roof, just opened here,
I’m often in the area and there are a few
places that I visit regularly. Gallo produces
the most luxurious socks and I make sure
I always stock up.
‘I spend a lot of my free time enjoying
Rome’s beautiful parks with my family.
My favourites are the tranquil Villa Ada
and the gardens of Villa Celimontana,
located close to the Colosseum and the
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Above (clockwise from top lef): Rome zoo; Fatoria di Fiorano restaurant; Cafè Parnaso; Gallo autumn/winter 2014 men’s sock collection
perfect picnic spot. Or we might visit
Rome’s zoo, one of the oldest in Europe.
My favourite walk in the city begins in the
Villa Borghese gardens. Walk from the
entrance along the pathways, past perfectly
shaped hedges and vibrant fowerbeds, to
the Giardino del Lago in in the centre
of the park. Take a moment here to enjoy
this area of natural wilderness in the heart
of the city. From there, it’s only a short
distance to the Via Veneto, which served as
the backdrop for Federico Fellini’s iconic
La Dolce Vita. I recommend walking around
the city as much as possible as it’s the easiest
way to discover Rome’s hidden spots.
‘For the city’s best view, visit the
Gianicolo, a hill that boasts panoramic
views of the city. After a long day, I like
to enjoy an aperitif at my favourite café,
Cafè Parnaso. For a quick bite to eat, I’ll
head to Pizza Style which serves authentic,
delicious pizza or, for a typical taste of
Rome, to Enoteca Ferrara in Trastevere.
‘For a gourmet trip that’s worth
venturing further afeld for, I always
suggest Fattoria di Fiorano. It’s just 15
miles from the Colosseum and is owned
by Alessia Antinori, one of the foremost
names in Italian wine. The Fattoria has
an impressive winery and an excellent
restaurant. The restaurant uses all the fresh
produce made on site. There’s also a shop
selling the farm’s organic products such
as olive oil and honey. What’s more, there
are plenty of activities available to keep
the whole family happy.’
PH
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114
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Refund Ofces
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Milan Malpensa Airport
Refund Ofce Details:
Rome Fiumicino Airport
Terminal 3, Departures, Gate H1
Terminal 5, Departures
Downtown Rome
Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome
Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome
Trevi, Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome
Rome Fiumicino Airport
To Gate To Gate Area D B-C-D
To Gate Area B
Security ControlTerminal 3
to Gate G
Terminal 5
Terminal 1
To Gate C
Gate H1
To Gate G
To Gate G-H
Check in Area2nd Floor
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Area BExtra Schengen1st Floor
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116
Translations
Джош Симс раскрывает идею итальянского образа жизни la bella fgura, неотъемлемой частью которого стал неподражаемый мужской стильBravura, cognoscente, bel canto, literati –
54: Passion For Perfection
Для особых мужчин
Русский ПеРевоДтакими колоритными эпитетами награждает итальянскую манеру одеваться Умберто Анджелони, президент и исполнительный директор бренда мужской одежды Caruso: «Все эти слова – истинно итальянские, – поясняет он. – И все они указывают на нашу особую способность и мироощущение». Однако определяющим остается выражение la bella fgura («прекрасный облик» в приблизительном переводе): именно оно
globalblue.com
117
характеризует знаменитый, не поддающийся описанию шарм итальянского стиля.
La bella fgura – это истинно итальянское умение создавать роскошную оболочку и полностью сживаться с ней независимо от времени дня или года. И это всегда великолепно проявляется на показах мужских коллекций Ermenegildo Zegna, Berluti, Brioni и других модных домов. По сути, итальянцы превратили свой неповторимый стиль в цельный образ жизни, где каждая деталь имеет значение. Отличный пример – рубашки Luigi Borrelli: перламутровые пуговицы пришиваются вручную невидимой нитью с использованием старинной техники «трех узелков», а хлопок для них прессуется цветочной водой ветивера.
«Сейчас стиль для нас важнее, чем когда-либо, учитывая ситуацию после 20 лет социальных проблем», – объясняет Анджелони. Раньше он возглавлял модный дом Brioni, а теперь управляет ателье Caruso. Основанное в Парме в 1958 году, оно переживает возрождение накануне запланированного на январь открытия представительств в Нью-Йорке и Милане. «Общая атмосфера la bella fgura передает итальянскому образу его неповторимое обаяние и шарм. А это значит – быть заметным, но не высокомерным, демонстративно расслабленным и ироничным, но ничего не упускать из-под контроля. В итоге жизнь в стиле la bella fgura определяет, как мы ходим, что мы едим, во что играем, как флиртуем и, особенно, как одеваемся. Итальянцы постоянно работают над своим обликом, но их всех объединяет страсть к la bella fgura».
Обратите внимание на центральный образ рекламной кампании Каннского кинофестиваля: едва ли кто-то более соответствует этой стильной изысканности, чем Марчелло Мастроянни, звезда фильма Федерико Феллини 1963 года «Восемь с половиной». Помимо актеров, образчиками фирменной элегантности можно назвать писателя и поэта Габриэле Д’Аннунцио, владельца заводов Джанни Анджлли и председателя совета директоров Ferrari Луку
Кордеро ди Мотедземоло, вошедшего, кстати, в список самых стильных людей мира 2013 года по версии Vanity Fair.
Философия la bella fgura глубоко укоренена в культуре страны: итальянцы, подобно английским денди и французским фланерам, всегда воспринимали la bella fgura как нечто статусное и желанное для мужчины. В своей книге Il Cortegiano («О придворном»), опубликованной в 1528 году, Бальдассаре Кастильоне описал так называемое «универсальное правило для любых дел» – sprezzatura: демонстративная небрежность, которая маскировала бы усилия. Таким образом, трудности преодолеваются с показной уверенностью, что даже в то время считалось в равной мере как романтичной отвагой и некоторым лукавством. А в 18 веке путешественники, совершавшие ритуальный Гран-тур по Италии, оставляли свидетельства, что даже встреченные ими крестьяне были прекрасно одеты.
Внешний облик всегда будет неотъемлемой часть итальянской культуры, и тому есть несколько причин. Для средиземноморских солнечных стран в целом характерно внимание к телесности. А католицизм привнес свои яркие обряды и внимание к визуальному. Кроме того, итальянцы до сих пор часто живут в родительском доме до 30 лет, благодаря чему стиль внутри семьи передается от отца к сыну, и в определенный момент происходит ритуальное представление молодого поколения семейному портному.
Считается, что наибольшую популярность la bella fgura обрела на фоне интенсивного социального и экономического развития 1950-х годов. Именно на этот период пришелся расцвет итальянской модной индустрии и появление маркетинга в этой сфере. Но основным стимулом по-прежнему оставалась потребность в мужской конкуренции.
Ориентируясь на эталоны высокого искусства, итальянцы стремятся воплотить в жизнь идеальную мужественность статую «Давид» работы Микеланджело и пропорциональность других шедевров
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скульптуры, поэтому подчеркивают в крое широкие плечи и узкую талию. «Целый пласт искусства подтверждает, что для нас ценно все, что хорошо выглядит, – утверждает основатель обувной компании Сильвано Латтанци. – В конце концов, нас окружают великолепные пейзажи, архитектура Возрождения, фрески в каждой маленькой церкви».
Как и искусство Италии, мужская одежда этой страны завоевала поклонников благодаря своей особенной утонченности. Анджелони считает, что в соответствии с la bella fgura, она должна быть «современной, актуальной настоящему моменту, не ориентирующейся на прошлое или будущее». «Если вы хотите продавать костюмы итальянцам, необходим реверанс традиции в деталях – манжеты на пуговицах, идеальные стежки на лацкане. При этом мужчины–иностранцы могут вообще не заметить подобных нюансов», - делится он.
Однако со временем ситуация меняется, и для мужчин в других странах элементы отделки также приобретают особое значение. В 2013 году опрос, проведенный консалтинговой компанией Boston Consulting Group, выявил, что Италия до сих пор остается признанным лидером в сфере одежды, аксессуаров и ювелирных украшений. Даже в сфере часов она оказалась на втором месте, хотя в этой стране работает только один роскошный бренд – Panerai. Похоже, есть все основания полагать, что стиль жизни la bella fgura плотно вошел в мировую моду.
64: Beyond The Tiber
На другом берегу Тибра
Стивен Дойг рассказывает о Трастевере, который из бедного пригорода Рима вырос в очаровательный столичный район с тихими улочками, зелеными парками и многолюдными ресторанами и бутиками
Просвещенные путешественники прекрасно ориентируются в мощеных улицах Рима. Via dei Condotti, извилистая Via Veneto, Via degli Annibaldi, которая ведет от древнего Форума
к Колизею, - они уже стали родными и знакомыми гостям города. Некоторые улицы даже увековечены в книгах и фильмах: в лентах «Клеопатра» и «Римские каникулы» можно узнать буквально каждый угол или переулок. Но не менее интересно побывать и в обделенных массовым вниманием местах Рима.
Неподалеку от Ватикана на берегу бурного Тибра расположился район Трастевере – скрытая от посторонних глаз жемчужина итальянской столицы. Он славится извилистыми тенистыми улочками и многочисленными виллами и дворцами, фасады которых выкрашены в песочный, голубой и шафранный оттенки. Именно здесь современная культура развивается активнее всего – на фоне особого отношения к богатой истории города. Итальянское название квартала Трастевере указывает на то, что он оказался вне поля обычного внимания гостей Рима: это слово переводится как «на том берегу Тибра».
Когда-то это было бедное предместье Рима, а близость к реке влекла сюда моряков и иммигрантов. В средние века Травестере находился так далеко от нахоженных дорог, что попасть в центр Рима можно было только по крошечному деревянному мостику.
В то же время, нельзя недооценивать культурное наследие этого района. И дело даже не в самых знаменитых сыновьях Рима - режиссерах Федерико Феллини или Лукино Висконти. В 1960-70-е годы сюда приехали модные музыканты, основавшие экспериментальное электронное движение в музыке.
Ценителям кинематографа наверняка знакомо самое красивое место Трастевере – холм Яникул (Gianicolo). На его фоне снималась основная часть фильма «Великая красота», вышедшего в 2013 году и получившего Оскар. Вечный город показан здесь крупным планом – это, без преувеличения, ключевой персонаж ленты, и его особое очарование в новом времени передано очень живо.
Рядом с Яникулом раскинулись парки, благодаря которым Травестере получил
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статус района-сада внутри каменной и суетливой столицы. Элегантная Villa Sciarra украшена фонтанами и парковыми скульптурами, обширная Villa Doria Pamphilj – это самая большая зеленая зона площадью 445 акров в черте города, производит впечатление и сад Orto Botanico.
В самом сердце Трастевере расположена Базилика Святой Марии и площадь перед ней. Говорят, она была основана на месте, где в момент рождения Христа чудесным образом пробился источник масла.
Побывать на другом берегу Тибра полезно и поклонникам вкусной трапезы: стильные бары и рестораны открыты буквально повсюду – будь то шумный рынок Campo dei Fiori или старомодная траттория Da Lucia. Извилистые улочки, романтичные фонари, увитые плющом здания – все это идеальные декорации для ужина в стиле al fresco с бокалом итальянского вина.
Особого внимания достоин ресторан Glass, обладатель звезды Мишлен: его шеф-повар Кристина Боуэрман знакома гурманам всего мира.
В последние годы эта часть Рима превратилась в центр актуального стиля. Мы рекомендуем нишевый бутик Annie и элегантное ателье Capito Primo. Есть и магазины мировых брендов: так, Boccanera предлагает обувь знаменитых брендов от Prada до Gucci. Вообще, обувь из кожи – это исконное итальянское ремесло, и лучшие его образцы можно также найти в Joseph Debach. Ботинки ручной работы – идеальный компаньон для многочасовых прогулок по обаятельному Трастевере, настоящей римской сокровищнице.trattoriadalucia.com, glass-restaurant.it, annieintrastevere.it, capitoloprimoatelier.net, boccanera.it
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72: In Focus: The Classic Gucci Loafer
В фокусе: Лоферы Gucci с жокейской пряжкой
Гвинет Холланд рассказывает, как лоферы Gucci, столь органичные в стиле smart-casual, стали классикой 60 лет назад – с первых дней своего существования
Термином «культовый» в модном мире часто злоупотребляют. Ведь далеко не у всякой вещи, коллекции или даже дизайнера есть шанс по-настоящему приобрести подобный статус. Лоферы Gucci с фирменной пряжкой,
однако, превратились в модную классику с первых же сезонов. Когда-то Гуччио Гуччи перенял спокойный функциональных стиль английских аристократов – постояльцев отеля Savoy в Лондоне, где он работал посыльным. Вдохновляясь этой манерой, его сын Альдо Гуччи создал первые лоферы в 1953 году. Так этот вид обуви прочно вошел в обиход голливудских звезд, спортсменов, политиков, магнатов и модников всего мира. Более того, лоферам удалось безвозвратно преобразить само представление об обуви.
Марка с мировым именем Gucci начинала свой путь в 1921 году с шорной
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мастерской, куда жокеи обращались за инвентарем. Поэтому жокейская тематика появляется практически во всех коллекциях бренда. Иногда это проявляется в отделке вещей красными и зелеными полосками, напоминающими о ремнях для седла. Еще один популярный мотив – похожая на уздечку пряжка в форме соединенных рейкой двух колец. Он украшал сумки, ремни и даже платья того периода, когда Том Форд был дизайнером марки. Но нигде этот элемент не смотрится так органично, как на классических лоферах.
Лоферы представляют собой туфли с миндалевидным носком, на тонкой подошве и без шнурков. Их шьют из мягкой кожи и украшают фирменной жокейской пряжкой. Несмотря на весьма простой облик, они оказали существенное влияние на мужской гардероб: таким образом, в 1953 году бренд Gucci создал новую категорию обуви для мужчин. Прежде существовало две крайности: либо элегантные модели, либо нарочито расслабленные. Новые роскошные туфли объединили в себе легкость мокасин с изящностью костюмных туфель и, тем самым, задали новые тренды стиля smart-casual, которые тепло приняла международная стильная тусовка.
Фирменная пряжка стала символом европейского шика для голливудских звезд: дизайнерское решение Gucci по достоинству оценили Гларк Гейбл, Фред Астер, Питер Селлерс и Джон Уэйн. Вскоре новым видом обуви заинтересовались и знаменитые актрисы. Но не только звездные поклонники сделали лоферы культовыми: в массовом восприятии они ассоциировались с экзотичной атмосферой Европы. Их расслабленно носили без носков на Ривьере, и с равным успехом сочетали с деловым костюмом на улицах Лондона или Милана.
Подобной востребованностью эта обувь отчасти обязана уникальной полой конструкции. Причем на создание каждой пары мастера Gucci тратят до двух с половиной дней. Структура не предусматривает внутренней стельки, за счет чего туфли получаются легкими, гибкими и удобными. Затем кожа вручную
окрашивается прошедшим подготовку колористом, который придает каждой паре особенный вид. Изначально выпускались только черные, коричневые и белые лоферы, однако теперь в ассортименте 45 оттенков и различные материалы: лакированная кожа, замша, кожа аллигатора и питона, а также полотно с принтом.
Женская вариация появилась в 1968 году, и на них сразу обратили внимание такие звезды, как София Лорен и Джуди Фостер. Фостер однажды даже попала в объективы фотографов во время катания на скейтборде – конечно, в любимой паре лоферов. В 2012 году Шарлотта Касираги, представительница королевской семьи Монако и любительница конкура, снялась для рекламной кампании Gucci, посвященной жокейской тематикой.
Как это часто бывает, за десятилетия существования лоферы знали периоды взлетов и падений, иногда в буквальном смысле. Так, в 1970-е широкий каблук мужской обуви стал почти таким же высоким, как женский. А в 90-е уплотнились подошвы туфель, став похожими на шины. Но за все эти годы узнаваемая пряжка превратилась в символ определенного статуса, что наглядно демонстрируют лоферы Леонадро ДиКаприо, в которых он появился в вышедшем недавно фильме «Волк с Уолл-Стрит».
Пусть даже жокейская тема в отдельные периоды была на острие моды. И все же оригинальный стиль лоферов остается поистине неподвластным времени. Они даже вошли в постоянную коллекцию нью-йоркского Музея искусств Metropolitan. Креативный директор Gucci Фрида Джаннини сумела привлечь к легендарной модели заслуженное внимание с помощью новой коллекции «1953», посвященной 60-летию лоферов, которое отмечалось в прошлом году.
На новом этапе их так легко сочетать с чем угодно – брюками-чинос, платьями, смокингами. Такая изящная легкость завоевала лоферам множество новых поклонников по всему миру, в том числе - трендсеттеров Поппи Делевинь и Ли Бинбин
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114: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
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Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах Франции, Швейцарии и Великобритании при возврате наличными взимается дополнительная комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
и модных актеров Идриса Эльбу и Джеймса Франко. Новому поколению модников по душе простая роскошь этих культовых туфель. И это абсолютно справедливо: стиль лоферов Gucci органично объединяет прошлое и настоящее.gucci.com
美文翻译
54: Passion For Perfection
执着的完美
La bella fgura一词完美注解了意大利男装的独特
魅力。Josh Sims为您解读其造型中的奥妙
意大利男装制造商Caruso的总裁兼首席执行官
Umberto Angeloni,为我们举出以下语言中的范
例:bravura(炫耀的行为)、 cognoscente(鉴赏
家)、bel canto(美声唱法)、literati(文学界)。“
所有这些词汇或短语都是意大利文,”这位时尚从业
者说道,“他们都代表一种特殊的技能或是特别的态
度。”然而,他声称,所有同类语汇中的桂冠当属la
bella fgura——因为其赋予了意大利时尚业许多无
法言传(je ne sais quoi)东西,如果借用这个阿尔卑
斯山地区的词汇来描述。
La bella fgura是一种意大利人的生活方式:
“美丽的景象”指的是一种保持24小时分寸不乱的
完美形象,也是意大利男性的代表性特征之一,其充
分表现于Ermenegildo Zegna、Berluti与Brioni等
品牌那风采绝伦的男装T型台上。毕竟,这是座不放
过任何微小细节的国度,在这里一件正装衬衣,譬
如来自Luigi Borrelli的产品,都采用专门的鸦爪形
三边缝法来固定珍珠母贝纽扣,而纯棉面料都是使
用香根草水进行熨烫的。是的,这并非传说。
“基于我们国家20年来经济萎靡的形象,时尚
变得前所未有的重要,”前Brioni品牌的首席执行官
Angeloni解释道,他如今是位于帕尔马的Caruso
制衣公司拥有者,这家成立于1958的企业正在酝酿
着复兴,并计划在纽约与米兰开店(明年一月)。“正
是la bella fgura的态度赋予意大利时尚独特的吸引
力与魅力。La bella fgura的意思是要引人瞩目却不
傲慢,看似轻松随意、满不在乎却又在暗中掌控。La
bella figura指导我们如何交谈、如何吃喝、如何玩
乐、如何调情,尤其是如何穿着。意大利人分分钟都
在摆弄自己的造型。但la bella fgura尤其成为意大
利男性的一张名片。
事实上,2 014年戛纳电影节会使用谁的
形象来宣传其前卫与深度呢?无外乎曾出演过
Federico Fellini 1963年名作《8½》的意大利男
演员Ma rc e l l o Mas t r o i a n n i。演员们并非是
意大利优雅男性的唯一代表:作家兼诗人Gabriele
D’Annunzio,实业家Gianni Agnelli,与曾被名利
场杂志列入2013年全球最佳着装人士排行榜的法
拉利总裁Luca Cordero di Montezemolo,都是意
大利时尚男性的典范。
La bella f igura的生活哲学深植于意大利人
心中:正如英国的dandy与法国的f lâneur一般,la
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bella fgura原本用来特指意大利公孔雀、而非母孔
雀的一种行为。当Baldassare Castiglione在1528
年发表Il Cortegiano(《侍臣论》)的时候,就提出
了这条所谓“通用于全人类的普遍法则”的假设:
sprezzatura(潇洒不羁),一种漫不经心的伪装,
用来掩饰以泰然自若的自信迎接挑战的艺术,其在
当时被认为是一种即浪漫、又同样具有欺骗性的行
为。到了18世纪,环游意大利的壮游者们纷纷评价
道,即便是意大利的农民也打扮得衣冠楚楚。
地中海文化的熏陶,造就了沐浴于阳光之下的
强烈身体意识,天主教则带来了仪式感与对形象的
重视,事实上直到当下意大利男性在30岁之前一般
都在家中生活——从而,关于着装的学问也得以从
父辈亲授给子辈,譬如郑重其事地引荐家族偏好使
用的裁缝——这意味着衣装永远都是意大利生活
的一部分。归功于意大利在1950年代经历的大规模
社会与经济扩张,其时尚工业得以迅猛增长并开始
进行市场营销,从而la bella fgura的涵义被进一步
丰富。同时因为激烈的竞争,这个词的影响力也在被
削弱。
从大都市到穷乡僻壤,每位意大利人都有着极
高的艺术造诣,并将裁缝师裁出的宽肩与收腰设计,
视作对米开朗基罗的大卫的阳刚体格,与意大利古
典雕塑的沉静姿态的一种反应。“本国的整体艺术
文化氛围意味着我们欣赏一切美丽的事物,”米兰鞋
匠Silvano Lattanzi表示。“毕竟,我们生活在美丽
的自然景观与文艺复兴建筑之中,在每座小教堂中
都装饰着壁画。”
意大利男装也如同意大利艺术一般,力证其为
世界输出的主要价值,是其精益求精的理念。要体
现la bella fgura,就必须是“摩登,与现在相关,并
不留恋过去或奢望未来的,”Angeloni指出,“在细节
之处有对传统的致敬——譬如职业袖扣,翻领的正
确缝法——这些都是你想将一件西服卖给意大利男
士所必须具备的,这些细节其他地方的男性或许根
本就不会注意到。”
诚然,世界其他角落的男性也开始关注这些细
节。然而波士顿管理咨询公司于2013年的一项调查
显示,意大利仍然是世界上排名第一的服装、配饰
与珠宝生产国,还是排名第二的腕表生产国——虽
然该国只拥有Panerai这一个奢侈腕表品牌。看来la
bella fgura的生活艺术还在延续。
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64: Beyond The Tiber
提伯河外的特拉斯提弗列
特拉斯提弗列区曾被认为是罗马的穷表弟。现在,
这里有着迷人的街道,树木成荫的公园和活力四射
的店铺。显然,特拉斯提弗列已经成为了一个颇具魅
力的地方。现在就跟随Stephen Doig一起探索这颗
罗马隐藏的珍宝吧。
饱读诗书的旅客们都不会对罗马深具文化意义的鹅
卵石街道感到陌生。从孔多蒂街走到蜿蜒的威尼托
和安尼巴尔第街,你会行经一个古老的广场,并最终
到达斗兽场。这座城市的街道给人故友重逢之感。从
《埃及艳后》到《罗马假日》,罗马的大街小巷都已
经在电影和文学作品中化为永恒,每个角落都能被
一眼认出。可那些不为人所熟知的角落又是怎样一
番景象呢?
离梵蒂冈城只有几步之遥的特拉斯提弗列地处
水流湍急的提伯河畔,这里就像是隐藏于罗马皇冠
上的一颗宝石。特拉斯提弗列狭窄的鹅卵石街两旁
是深褐,长春花与藏红花色调的别墅和帕拉佐风格
的建筑物。正是在这里,最酷的文化景象与这座城
市古老的历史融为一体。“特拉斯提弗列”的意思
是“提伯河以外”,暗示着这里通常不为罗马的游人
所知。在历史上,这里曾是罗马的穷亲戚。由于特拉
斯提弗列靠近河畔的地理位置,这里也曾是水手和
外来人口的避风港。在中世纪时期,从罗马城到这里
唯一的通路仅是一座木制的小桥。
这个地方的文化传统令人沉醉,原因并不在于费
里尼和维斯孔蒂的电影。20世纪六七十年代,特拉
斯提弗列曾是先锋音乐家们的避风港。那些曲折蜿
蜒,挂着常青藤的街道是先锋实验电子音乐的出生
地。热爱电影的观众也会熟知特拉斯提弗列迷人的
贾尼科洛山。2013年发行的奥斯卡获奖电影《绝美
之城》正是在这里摄制的。电影捕捉到了这座永恒
之城的魅力,也因描绘了这里上流社会大人物们的
奢华生活而被人所熟知。
离贾尼科洛山仅一箭之遥的是一片植物覆盖的
地带,似乎象征着特拉斯提弗列是这座狂热城市的
后花园。特拉斯提弗列拥有好几个广阔的花园,包括
了喷泉和雕塑密布的Villa Sciarra,迷人的奥尔托
植物园和罗马最大的一片绿地——占地445英亩的
Villa Doria Pamphilj。这里的最中心的景点还是圣
母大殿广场,据说耶稣降生之时,教堂脚下的沃土曾
经奇迹般的喷薄而出。
特拉斯提弗列也是美食爱好者的天堂。从热闹
的鲜花广场集市到古朴的Da Lucia小餐馆,时髦
的酒吧和饭店随处可见。曲折浪漫的街道上,灯火
如童话般星星点点,藤蔓垂挂在建筑物两旁。你一
定会想要用一杯意大利葡萄酒来点缀这样一个浪
漫的夜晚。如同珠宝般珍贵的Glass餐厅是特拉斯
提弗列美食之旅的目的地,世界闻名的米其林大厨
Cristina Bowerman在这里掌勺。
近年来,特拉斯提弗列也逐渐成为了一片时尚
潮流的中心地带。这里有精品店Annie,优雅的小店
Capito Primo,还有售卖Prada, Gucci等意大利最
上等鞋履的小小鞋店Boccanera。在以手工鞋出名
的Joseph Debach店里,意大利人引以为傲的手工
艺得到了充分的展示。游览完特拉斯提弗列之后不
妨在这里购物休憩吧,为你的旅途划上一个完美的
句号。
trattoriadalucia.com, glass-restaurant.it,
annieintrastevere.it, capitoloprimoatelier.net,
boccanera.it
VIA CONDOTTI, 80 - ROMA
TEL: +39 06 6788944
MONDAY-SATURDAY 10 AM - 7 PM
SHOP AT TESTONI.COM
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130
72: In Focus: The Classic Gucci Loafer
精品聚焦:Gucci 马衔扣乐福鞋
时尚休闲的Gucci 马衔扣乐福鞋,自60年前发布至
今已俨然成为一款经典设计。Gwyneth Holland为
您揭秘个中缘由
“标志性”一词在时尚界时常被滥用,但是并非每
款产品,每位设计师或每个系列都可成为时代标志。
然而Gucci的马衔扣乐福鞋,自诞生之日起就是无
可争议的经典。受品牌创始人Guccio Gucci曾当过
服务生的伦敦Savoy酒店内往来的贵族宾客们轻便
实用的着装风格启发,创始人之子Aldo在1953年推
出了马衔扣乐福鞋。自那时起,这款产品就受到好莱
坞明星与体育明星、政客要人、商界巨鳄与国际花花
公子们的青睐,并从此影响并永远改变了鞋履的世
界。
如今誉满全球的Gucci品牌,始于1921年创
立于佛罗伦萨的一间马具店,以马术为灵感的设计
细节可见诸于品牌全系列,从灵感来自固定马鞍的
绳索的红绿间隔条纹,到借鉴自马衔扣(也称为马
嚼子)的双环与连接杆图案。马衔扣装饰曾出现在
Gucci的包袋、腰带、甚至Tom Ford时代的镂空连
衣裙上,然而其从未像今日出现在这款经典乐福鞋
头上那么恰如其分。
马衔扣乐福鞋是一款足部可直接滑入的懒人
鞋,使用柔软皮革制作,搭配以杏仁形鞋头、超轻便
鞋底与围绕全足的条纹镶边。尽管外形十分简单,
这款鞋却对男性着装史产生过重大影响:Gucci在
1953年推出这款乐福鞋时,成功为男士们创造出一
个全新的鞋款类别。之前的岁月里,男人们的鞋履要
么极为正式,要么极为休闲,而这款奢华懒人鞋,将
软皮鞋的惬意与正装鞋的时髦完美融合,创造出全
新的时尚休闲鞋履,并迅速蹿红于全球上流群体之
间。乐福鞋头上马衔扣折射出的独特光芒,使其成
为从Clark Gable、Fred Astaire到Peter Sellers与
John Wayne等一众好莱坞巨星眼中的欧洲时尚。不
久之后,这种款式迅速被改造借鉴,权利女性们也
纷纷加入穿着行列。然而这款鞋如此具有标志性,
并非只因其名人拥趸:马衔扣乐福鞋自身便带有充
满启发性的、欧陆风格的异国情调,无论是赤足穿
着、无忧无虑地漫步于里维埃拉,还是搭配精干西
服、踏足于伦敦或米兰的街头。
这款鞋履的风韵部分来自于其独特的结构:每
双鞋都需由Gucci的工匠们花费两天半时间打造,
该鞋采用摒弃鞋垫的圆筒形结构,使其分外轻巧、
柔软与舒适。鞋的架构完成之后,再由色彩专家对皮
革进行手工染色。赋予每对鞋独一无二的外观。虽
然马衔扣乐福鞋刚推出时只提供保守的黑色、棕色
和白色款,但如今已有多达45种款式可供选择,其
中包括经典色彩与明亮色彩的漆皮、麂皮、鳄鱼皮、
蟒蛇皮与印花帆布版本。
马衔扣乐福鞋的女士版本在1968年推出,并
自那时起成为Sophia Loren与Jodie Foster等女星
的心头好,后者曾被拍摄到着该鞋滑雪的镜头。将
时间拉近,摩洛哥王室的年轻成员、业余马术选手
Charlotte Casiraghi,也在2012年的马术主题广告
中穿着该款乐福鞋。
作为一款延续几十载的产品,马衔扣乐福鞋
经历了各种跌宕起伏,有时也是字面意义上的。在
1970年代,男士的粗跟鞋变得几乎与女士粗跟鞋一
样盛行,到了90年代,又演化成轮胎花纹样式的齿
轮状鞋底。在流行摇摆之间,辨识度经久不衰的马
衔扣成为地位的标志,正如莱昂纳多在电影《华尔
街之狼》中穿着的乐福鞋所展示的一般。
马衔扣乐福鞋或已走过辉煌之极的巅峰时刻,
但这种独一无二的乐福鞋款式已然成为永不落伍
的经典。毕竟,这是被纽约大都会博物馆收入永久
性馆藏的唯一一款鞋履。Gucci的创意总监Frida
Giannin通过去年为庆贺这款鞋诞生60周年而推出
的全新1953系列,宣告马衔扣乐福鞋重新回归其休
闲风格定位。
这款经过重新塑造的乐福鞋,可与从卷裤脚卡
其裤、连衣裙到燕尾服等任何服饰搭配,并在全世
界范围内聚集了一众新拥护者,其中包括时尚领军
人物Poppy Delevingne与李冰冰,还有时髦代表
Idris Elba与James Franco等演员。新生代们正在
重新发现这款标志性的马衔扣乐福鞋所流露的轻松
魅力:对于这样一款源自经典、又面向未来的鞋款而
言,一切正该如此。
gucci.com
PH
OT
O: G
UC
CIO
GU
CC
I S
PA
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114: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
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环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free
Shopping)为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global
Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过
程:
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无论 您 在 哪里消费,请 索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格
(Global Blue Tax Free Form)。
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将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。
日本語翻訳
54: Passion For Perfection
完璧へのこだわり
ラ・ベラ・フィギュラ ― イタリアンメンズウェア独特
の魅力を一言で表すとこれに尽きる。ジョッシュ・シ
ムズがこのルックスの魅力を解き明かす。
イタリアのメンズウェアメーカー、カルーソの社
長兼CEOのウンベルト・アンジェローニが、キー
ワードをいくつか挙げている。bravura(巧妙)
、cognoscente(目利き)、bel canto(美しい歌)
、literati(文人)。「これらの語句は全てイタリア語
で、いずれも特別な能力や姿勢を表している」と、こ
のファッション実業家は書いているが、そういった語
句の中でも代表格はla bella figura(ラ・ベラ・フィ
ギュラ、「美しい姿」)だという。イタリアンファッショ
ンの(アルプスを越えた隣国の表現を借りれば)「je
ne sais quoi」、つまり「何とも言い表しがたい魅力」
はやはりこれが源だからだ。
ラ・ベラ・フィギュラはイタリア人の生き方を表
す。「美しい姿」は、イタリア人男性の決定的特徴で
ある一日24時間不断の一糸乱れぬ粋なスタイルを
いい、エルメネジルド・ゼニア、ベルルッティ、ブリオ
ーニといったレーベルのメンズウェアショーではそ
れを見事に体現した作品がふんだんに見られる。何
しろ、どんな些細なディテールでも大事にするお国
柄だ。ドレスシャツ一つをとってみても、例えばルイ
ジ・ボレッリでは、貝ボタンを同社独自の鳥足掛け
で縫い付け、コットンのアイロンがけにベチベルソウ
水を使っている。そこまで、と思うだろうが、本当の
話だ。
「20年にわたる失政で我が国のイメージが悪
化している今、スタイルが今まで以上に重要」と、元
ブリオーニCEOで現在はパルマを本拠とするカルー
ソのオーナー社長であるアンジェローニは説明する。
カルーソは1958年創業で、現在はニューヨークとミ
ラノ(来年1月)に店舗開設予定と巻き返しの準備万
端だ。「イタリアンスタイルの魅力とセンスは、ラ・ベ
ラ・フィギュラを追求する生き様から来ています。ラ・
ベラ・フィギュラとは、人目を引きつつ尊大さがなく、
鷹揚で斜に構えたようでありながら実は全てに注意
が行き届いていることをいいます。ラ・ベラ・フィギュ
ラは、話し方、食べ方、遊び方、恋愛遊戯の楽しみ
方、そして特に装いに表れます。イタリア人は自己イメ
ージを常に操作しているのです。また、特にイタリア
人男性にとっては、ラ・ベラ・フィギュラは名刺代わり
でもあります。」
実際、2014年カンヌ映画祭でクールで洗練され
たイメージの宣伝に使われた写真はというと?答え
は、他ならぬイタリア人俳優マルチェロ・マストロヤン
ニ。フェデリコ・フェリーニ監督の1963年の映画『8
1/2』に主演した際のワンショットだ。エレガントなイ
タリア人は、何も俳優だけではない。ヴァニティ・フェ
ア誌の2013年度「世界のベストドレッサーリスト」に
名を連ねた著作家で詩人のガブリエレ・ダヌンツィ
オ、実業家のジャンニ・アグネリ、フェラーリ社会長の
ルカ・コルデロ・ディ・モンテツェモーロも、同じくス
タイリッシュなイタリア男だ。
人生哲学としてのラ・ベラ・フィギュラのルーツ
は深い。イギリス人の「ダンディ」やフランス人のフ
ラヌ―ル(f lâneur、「さすらい人」)と同様に、ラ・
ベラ・フィギュラも元々の発想はメス孔雀ではなくオ
ス孔雀になりたいという野心だった。バルダッサー
レ・カスティリオーネは、『I l Cortegiano』(「宮廷
人」、1528年出版)を著した際に、彼が「人間万事
に通ずる一般法則」と呼ぶ概念を提案した。それは
sprezzatura(さりげなさ)。困難な局面を冷静沈着
133
に乗り切るために必要な手腕を包み隠すうわべの
何気なさで、当時でさえ、ロマンチックな反面、信用
ならないとも考えられていた。18世紀になると、グラ
ンドツアー(裕福な英国貴族の子弟が学業の仕上
げに行った欧州周遊旅行)でイタリアを巡った旅人
が、百姓階級ですら身なりがいいとコメントしてい
る。
日差しを浴びた身体を意識する地中海文化と、
儀式や偶像崇拝を含むカトリシズムの影響、さらに、
イタリア男性は30歳になるまで実家で暮らすのが通
常という事実(これによって、贔屓の仕立て屋への正
式な紹介など、父から息子へスタイルの知識が受け
継がれる)もあって、外見は常にイタリア生活の一部
になっているのだ。ラ・ベラ・フィギュラが幅広く実践
されるようになったのは、1950年代に同国の社会と
経済が大きく拡大したことがきっかけとよく言われ
る。イタリアのファッション産業が大幅成長し、初め
てマーケティングを取り入れた頃だ。しかし、その下
地には競争ニーズもあった。
都市部から田園部まで至る所に高級芸術が背
景にあるこの国で、イタリア人男性は肩幅が広くウエ
ストを絞った仕立てを、ミケランジェロのダビデ像の
理想化された男らしさとイタリア古典彫像の静穏な
たたずまいの反映と見ている。「芸術文化全般が、
私達が見栄えの良いもの全てを愛する国民であるこ
との表れ」と、ミラノの靴メーカー、シルヴァーノ・ラ
ッタンツィはいう。「何せ、美しい風景とルネッサンス
建築に囲まれ、どんな小さな教会にもフレスコ画が
ある環境で暮らしているわけですから。」
イタリア芸術と同じで、イタリアのメンズウェア
もまさにその洗練されたイメージを買われて、代表的
な輸出品となっている。ラ・ベラ・フィギュラを映すに
は、「モダンで今風、過去でも未来でもなく今を見据
えた服」でなくてはならないと、アンジェローニはい
う。「本切羽できちんとした襟ステッチが掛かってい
るなど、ディテールに伝統が活かされています。イタ
リア人男性にスーツを売ろうと思えば無くてはならな
いが、他国の男性は気づきさえしないようなディテー
ルです。」
とはいえ、他国でも男性がそうしたディテールに
目覚めつつあるのは確かだ。国際経営コンサルタン
トのボストン・コンサルティング・グループが2013年
に行った調査で、イタリアは依然として衣服、アクセ
サリー、ジュエリーの生産国第一位にランキングさ
れ、時計ですら、高級時計ブランドはパネライだけで
あるにもかかわらず第二位に付けている。どうやら、
ラ・ベラ・フィギュラのライフスタイルが広まりつつあ
るようだ。
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134
64: Beyond The Tiber
テヴェレの向こう
かつてはローマでも比較的貧しい地区だったトラス
テヴェレが、心惹かれる通りや緑豊かな公園、活気
に満ちたブティックやレストランがいっぱいの魅力的
な近隣へと進化している。スティーヴン・ドイグが探
索した。
ローマの石畳の道は、文化に詳しい旅人にはお馴染
みだ。コンドッティ通りや曲がりくねったヴェネト通
り、古代のフォルム(公共広場)沿いにコロッセオへ
とつながるアンニバルディ通りなど、この都市の大通
りは親しい旧友のように感じられることがある。これ
らは、文学や「クレオパトラ」、「ローマの休日」とい
った映画で不朽の地位を確立し、どの一角も一目で
それとわかる通りだ。一方、それほど知られていない
ローマはどうだろうか。
バチカン市国から少し歩くと、流れの速いテヴェ
レ川の河岸にトラステヴェレ地区がある。ここはきら
びやかなローマの隠れた宝石で、入り組んだ石畳の
細道沿いにセピアや青紫、サフラン色の住宅や邸宅
が立ち並ぶ。世界有数の歴史都市ローマの中で、流
行の文化シーンが発達してきたのがこの地区だ。「ト
ラステヴェレ」という名前自体が、ローマ観光客が通
常訪れる範囲の外側にあることを示している。翻訳
すれば「テヴェレの向こう」だ。歴史的には旧ローマ
市街の貧しい弟分といったところで、川に近いことか
ら船乗りや移民が住み着くようになった。市街から
遥かに離れていたため、中世にはローマ中心部から
のアクセスは木造の小橋一本きりだった。
この地区の文化的遺産は素晴らしい。ローマ
が誇るフェデリコ・フェリーニとルキノ・ヴィスコンテ
ィの両巨匠を生んだ地という輝かしい栄誉はない
が、1960年代から70年代にかけて前衛ミュージシャ
ンの溜まり場となり、ツタの茂る曲がりくねった街路
は実験的なエレクトロニカ運動発祥の地となった。
ただ、映画通ならトラステヴェレの中でもとびきり魅
力的な区域を知っているかもしれない。ジャニコロ
の丘だ。2013年に公開されたアカデミー賞受賞作品
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『グレート・ビューティー/追憶のローマ』の中盤が
撮影されたのが、この場所だ。この映画は、永遠の
都ローマの魅力を現代的にとらえ、都市そのものを
壮麗この上なく映して主人公にしたことで知られる。
ジャニコロの丘の近辺には一連の緑地があり、
トラステヴェレが慌ただしく密集したローマで庭園的
な位置付けにあることがわかる。この地区には、噴
水と彫像があちこちにある優雅なヴィラ・シャッラ、
興味深いオルト・ボタニコ、ローマきっての広大な緑
地公園ヴィラ・ドリア・パンフィーリを含め、不規則に
延び広がる公園がいくつかあって、その緑地面積は
445エーカーと堂々たる規模を誇る。しかし、この地
区の中核はやはりサンタ・マリア大聖堂のある広場
だ。この教会は、キリスト生誕時に奇跡的に聖油の
泉が湧いた地点に建造されたと言われている。
この界隈は、賑やかなカンポ・デイ・フィオーリ
広場のマーケットや古風な趣きのダ・ルチア・トラッ
トリアなど、粋なバーやレストランが密集しており、
食通にも嬉しい場所。豆電灯が点在し、ツタの絡まる
建物が並ぶロマンチックな曲がり小路は、イタリアン
ワインのグラスを傾けながらとるアルフレスコの夕食
にもってこいの舞台だ。トラステヴェレ随一の食の名
店「グラス」も見逃せない。ミシュランの星を獲得した
このレストランは、世界的に有名なクリスティーナ・ボ
ゥエルマンがヘッドシェフを務める。
この近隣は近年、スタイルセンターとしても発展
している。国際ブランドを扱う店の他、ニッチブティ
ックのアニーやエレガントなカピート・プリーモのア
トリエが並ぶ。ちっぽけなボッカネーラでは、プラダ
からグッチまでイタリアの最高級靴を揃えている。職
人技が冴えるイタリア手工芸は、手作り靴で有名な
ジョゼフ・デバックでも出色だ。同店の靴は、ローマ
の隠れた秘宝、魅惑的なトラステヴェレ地区を数時
間そぞろ歩くのにぴったりだ。
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グッチのスマートカジュアルシューズ「ホースビット・
ローファー」は、60年前の発売以来続くデザインの
名品だ。グウィネス・ホランドがその理由を説明す
る。
「アイコニック」という言葉はファッション界では濫
用されがちだが、製品にしろデザイナーにしろコレク
ションにしろ、全てがアイコンの地位を獲得できるわ
けではない。そんな中で、グッチのホースビット・ロー
ファーは発表されるなりデザイン史に名を残す傑作
となった。創業者のグッチオ・グッチはかつてロンド
ンのサボイホテルでベルボーイをしていた。この名門
ホテルを訪れる貴族階級の機能的でくつろいだスタ
イルをインスピレーションとするホースビット・ローフ
ァーは、1953年に息子のアルドが発売。以来、この
靴はハリウッドの映画スターや有名スポーツ選手、
政治家、大物実業家、世界に名をはせるプレイボー
イの足元を飾り、それに伴ってフットウェアの世界を
一変させた。
今や世界の有名ブランドとなったグッチ
は、1921年にフィレンツェで馬具商として起業。かつ
て鞍の固定に使われた腹帯にヒントを得た赤と緑の
ストライプから、二つの輪と金棒から成る馬ハミ(ホ
ースビット)のモチーフまで、乗馬をテーマとしたデ
ィテールがコレクションに広く登場する。ホースビッ
トはグッチのバッグやベルトに使われ、トム・フォー
ド時代にはカットアウトドレスにも見られたが、やは
り名作ローファーの前甲に付いているのが一番しっ
くりくる。
ホースビット・ローファーはしなやかな革で作っ
たスリップオンタイプの靴で、靴先はアーモンド形、
靴底はスリムで、甲に金棒が渡されたデザインだ。見
た目はシンプルだが、このローファーが男性の装いに
与えた影響は大きい。グッチが1953年にこのローフ
ァーを発売した時、事実上、紳士靴の全く新しいカ
テゴリーを生み出したといっていい。それまでの紳士
靴といえば、きちんとしているか極くカジュアルかの
両極端しかなかったが、モカシンの履きやすさと礼
装用靴の洗練を合わせたこの高級感あるスリップオ
72: In Focus: The Classic Gucci Loafer
注目のブランド:グッチ
114: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
海外でのお買い物が免税に
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利
用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街
にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得
になります。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー
の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。
手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し
ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・
ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを
踏むだけです。
1. お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免
税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってく
ださい。
2.還付請求
ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ
ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカ
スタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます。
お問い合わせ:
+421 232 111 111
€154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高
15.5%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻
し額は、付加価値税(VAT)合計から事務手数料を
差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ
い。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付
の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固
定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。
ンが元祖スマートカジュアルシューズとなり、それに
世界を股に掛けるジェット族が飛びついたのだ。ホー
スビットの独特のきらめきは、クラーク・ゲーブルか
らフレッド・アステア、ピーター・セラーズ、ジョン・ウ
ェインまで、ハリウッドスターの間でヨーロピアン・
シックのシンボルとなり、このスタイルはまもなく主演
女優たちにも広まった。ただ、アイコニックになった
のは、何も有名人ご用達だからという理由だけでは
ない。ホースビット・ローファーは昔から、リヴィエラ
で素足につっかける気楽な履き方から、ロンドンやミ
ラノの街で洗練されたスーツに合わせる履き方まで、
ヨーロピアンスタイルのエキゾチズムが漂う憧れのア
イテムなのだ。
この靴のスタイルは、ユニークな構造もその一
部だ。グッチの職人が一足一足を二日半かけて作る
のだが、インソールのないチュブラー構造のおかげ
で、軽くしなやかで履き心地がよい。靴の組み立て
が済んだら、染色専門の職人が皮を手染めして一足
一足にユニークな風合いを与える。当初は無難な
黒、茶、白の革製だけだったホースビット・ローファー
も現在では45種を超え、古典的な色から明るい色ま
で、素材もパテントレザー、スエード、クロコダイル、
パイソン、プリントのキャンバスまで様々だ。
婦人用が登場したのは1968年で、以来、ソフィ
ア・ローレンやジョディ・フォスターなどのスターが愛
用している。ジョディはホースビット・ローファーを履
いてスケートボードを楽しむ姿をスナップ写真に撮ら
れている。さらに最近は、乗馬をテーマとした2012
年の広告キャンペーンで、モナコ公女で馬術のアマチ
ュア選手でもあるシャルロット・カシラギがこのロー
ファーを履いている。
何十年にもわたる長寿商品なら浮き沈みはあ
って当然だが、このホースビット・ローファーもご多
分に漏れず、アップダウンが(時には文字通り)あっ
た。1970年代には紳士靴のブロックヒールは婦人用
とほとんど変わらない高さだったが、90年代にはガ
ッチリしたタイヤのような靴底になった。そんな移り
変わりの中で、ホースビットは一目でわかるステータ
スシンボルとなる。最近の映画「ウルフ・オブ・ウォー
ルストリート」でレオナルド・ディカプリオが履いてい
たローファーがまさにそれだ。
ホースビットをあしらったデザインが全盛の時
期が何度かあったが、もともとのローファースタイル
の真に時代を超える魅力は今も健在だ。何しろ、ニ
ューヨークのメトロポリタン美術館の永久所蔵コレ
クションに加えられた唯一の靴なのだから。グッチ
のクリエイティブ・ダイレクター、フリーダ・ジャンニ
ーニは昨年、このローファーの発売60周年を記念
した新1953年コレクションで、ホースビット・ローフ
ァーを本来のスイートスポット「休日の装い」に回帰
させた。
ロールアップしたチノパンからドレスやタキシー
ドまで何にでも合う新イメージのローファーは、ス
タイルリーダーのポピー・デルヴィーニュやリ・ビン
ビン、スタイリッシュな俳優のイドリス・エルバやジ
ェームズ・フランコなど、世界中で新たなファンを続
々獲得している。アイコニックなホースビット・ローフ
ァーの気楽な魅力を全く新しい世代が再発見して
いるのは、過去から現在にまたがる靴にいかにもふ
さわしい。
gucci.com
137
138 | PRODUCTS
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