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REMEMBER TO BREATHETREKKING TO EVEREST BASE CAMP: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE
REMEMBER TO BREATHETREKKING TO EVEREST BASE CAMP: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE
REMEMBER TO BREATHEJAY REILLY
Produced by: Frank and Sue Wall / Our Hiking BlogCover image: Monochrome Visions
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If you have ever dreamed of trekking in Nepal and
reaching Everest Base Camp, this guide, created
by a Nepal expert, is the perfect place to start your
research.
It invites you into a world of tea houses, tiny
alleys packed with outdoor gear, wonderful local
food, trekking within a fantastic culture, meeting
fascinating local people and exploring the top of
the world by foot.
Jay Reilly shares many years experience gained by
living in Nepal and guiding various expeditions into
this amazing country. Written in a no-nonsense
style, this guide takes you through every stage of
planning and undertaking a trip to Everest Base
Camp. It is designed for independent walkers and
those considering a guided trip.
This guide includes advice on:
• When to go - the best season and why
• Health - vaccinations, altitude, acclimatisation
• Training for the trip - yes, you do need to be fit
• Gear and equipment - what to bring from home
or what is available there
• Guided vs independent - helps you choose what
is best for you
• Kathmandu survival tips - enough said
• Tips for the trail - independent advice from an
expert
• Costs - setting a budget
• Local contacts - trusted people who have
worked with the author
• Suggested trek schedule - yes, finally you are
on the trail!
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About the Author
Jay Reilly started visiting the Khumbu Valley in
2002 as a commercial mountain climbing guide.
Since then he has led around 20 mountain climbing
and trekking expeditions in the Everest Region. He
has summited Ama Dablam (6856m) five times out
of nine attempts and Pumori (7145m) twice and
actually holds a record for being the only Australian
to do so.
During his guiding exploits, Jay spent most of his
time in the Khumbu Valley and has an intricate
knowledge of its moods, politics and people.
Jay is somewhat of a Nepal expert, having dealt
with storms, injuries and illness, both altitude
and otherwise – as well as now having a good
understanding of the way Nepalese bureaucracy
works.
Apart from being in the Khumbu region, Jay spent
time hanging out in Kathmandu between mountain
climbing expeditions. His knowledge of the city and
his ability to get off the tourist trail make him a
sought after leader and guide. Recently his travels
have centred around facilitating Australian school
students performing community service work in
Nepal.
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This book is about trekking to the base of Mt
Everest.
It will give you all the practical information on how,
when, what, where and who.
The why?
Only you can answer that! Perhaps it’s as simple
as the quote by 1930s mountaineer George Mallory
who, when asked why he wanted to climb Mt
Everest, replied, “Because it’s there.” Maybe you
want to visit places you have read about, made
famous in various adventure books about climbing
Mt Everest.
Or, perhaps you want to simply go and be in awe of
the mightiest mountain range on earth.
Whatever your reason, go, enjoy, fall in love with
Nepal’s people and culture and the truly magnificent
spectacle that is Sargarmartha, Mother Goddess of
the Earth - Mt Everest.
Climbing expedition shot from 6300m on Ama Dablam
TABLE OF CONTENTS5REMEMBER TO BREATHE
Chapter 11Track Notes 39
Chapter 12For The Even MoreAdventurous 68
Chapter 13Contacts 70
Region Map 72
A Bit About Nepal 76
Table of Contents
Chapter 1Introduction 6
Chapter 2Questions You May be Asking 7
Chapter 3When to Go 11
Chapter 4Health 13
Chapter 5Training for the Trip 20
Chapter 6Equipment 22
Chapter 7Commercial vs.Independent 24
Chapter 8KathmanduSurvival Tips 28
Chapter 9Tips for the Trail 32
Chapter 10Costs 38
INTRODUCTION6REMEMBER TO BREATHE
Welcome to one of the world’s finest journeys,
rich in culture, history and spiritualty; the
trek to Everest Base Camp.
Nepal has a fascinating political history, ruled by
Kings who were not strangers to infiltration and
betrayal by family. Lies, theft, corruption, unethical
rises to power, it reads better than a daytime soap
script!
Is it safe to travel to Nepal?
Very. Despite the unstable political situation,
Kathmandu is, in my opinion, quite safe. Part of
my time spent there was during the intense period
of outright guerrilla warfare between the government
and Maoist Rebels that raged from 2002 to 2006,
and even at that time I never felt threatened or in
danger.
The Nepalese government certainly has its own
internal struggle, but this struggle has never
overflowed onto visiting foreigners. The Nepalese are
genuine, hard-working and friendly people. They are
also smart. They know that much of the country’s
revenue comes from tourism, so they would never
intentionally let that industry be damaged in any
way. Having said that, you do need to exercise a
level of caution no matter where you travel. Be
smart, use common sense, and put simple personal
security measures in place – i.e. lock your doors, do
not leave valuables lying about, and do not display
large amounts of cash.
Check your government travel
advice website while planning
your trip. They will have the
most up to date information.
“Himalaya” - Sherpa word meaning “abode of
snow”.
Chapter 1Introduction
Buddha statue at Swayambunath
QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING7REMEMBER TO BREATHE
Where is it?
Mt Everest is located on the border of Nepal and
Tibet. The trek to base camp follows the Khumbu
Valley in Nepal.
How do I get there?
You need to travel to Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital
city. This is where you need to make your trek
preparations. Stay a while and experience the
wonderment that is Kathmandu!
Where do I stay?
In Kathmandu, the main tourist district is called
Thamel. This is where most travellers base
themselves when exploring Kathmandu. Thamel
is an area of about five city blocks and contains
trekking stores, restaurants, supermarkets,
pharmacies, bars, clothing, jewellery and carpet
shops. There are more hotels and guesthouses than
you would think possible!
See Chapter 11 for some recommendations and a
map. For information on teahouses whilst on the
trek see Chapter 9.
What is the currency of Nepal and where can I get it?
The national currency is the Nepali rupee (NRP).
The average exchange rate hovers between 60-70
NRP for one US Dollar. Major western currencies
are readily exchanged in Nepal. The Rupee
denominations are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500,
and 1000 notes.
There are many currency exchange booths in and
around Thamel. Compare the different rates before
you exchange money, as they can vary. It is possible
to barter for a better rate if you are exchanging large
sums. There are also a number of ATMs scattered
around Thamel that accept foreign cards and will
dispense NRP.
Chapter 2
Questions You May be Asking
Money changer in Kathmandu
Prayer flags over Kathmandu
QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING8REMEMBER TO BREATHE
How do I get to Mt Everest from Kathmandu?
You can walk the entire way, but it is very long.
These days, 99% of trekkers and climbers fly from
Kathmandu to the mountain village of Lukla. Taking
this flight cuts off a 10-day walk, and an unpleasant
8-hour bus or car ride.
How do I get this flight?
There are many trekking agencies in Thamel with
offices on every street. They can book flights for you.
Flights to Lukla cost around USD$140 each way,
take about 45 minutes in small, 15-20 seat planes.
Currently there is only one airline that flies to Lukla
and offers only 3 flights per day. Now – imagine
6000 trekkers, plus guides, 1000 climbers, plus
staff and equipment all trying to get to Lukla on the
same day… Chaos?? Yep. Absolute and an impossible
task. It stands to reason that if you attempt a trek
in the middle of the peak season, all the flights may
be full. Perhaps a shoulder season trek?
Alternatively, you can charter a private helicopter
that will fit you and 7 of your friends. This will cost
about $3000 each way. Boarding the flight to Lukla
QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING9REMEMBER TO BREATHE
How far is it to Everest Base Camp?
It is approximately a 140-kilometre round trip from
Lukla. This excludes any side trips. Distances are
not measured in Nepal, but time is. You will see
signs or hear people tell you that destination X is
Y number of hours away.
How long should I plan to be on the trek?
At a bare minimum, you could trek to Everest Base
Camp and back again in 14 days (see the Trek
Schedule in Chapter 12). However, this leaves no
time for relaxing, sightseeing, side trips or, more
importantly, allowing time for good acclimatisation.
A preferred time to allow is 19-21 days.
How high will I go?
Everest Base Camp is at an altitude of 5400m. At
this height above sea level the oxygen concentration
in the air is quite reduced. Many people find it a
challenge to get enough oxygen into their blood
stream while trekking and living in the “thin air”.
There are extensive notes in Chapter 4 - Health
that will guide you through the process of
acclimatisation.
If you decide on a side trip to Kala Pattar, a popular
viewing point near Everest Base Camp, this will take
you to 5600m or thereabouts. Some call Kala Pattar
a mountain, but it is actually just a high point on
Mt Pumori’s south ridge.
See Chapter 12 in the Trek Schedule for more
information on possible side trips.
What if I’m scared of heights?
There are a few places on the route where the trail
drops off steeply to one side, but the trail is plenty
wide and perfectly safe.
Will I fall off?
No. There is nothing to fall off. Just because you are
at high altitude does not mean you are suspended
in the sky. You are on solid, stable trail the entire
way.
Do I need to be fit?
Yes. Being at high altitude puts enormous strain
on your body, particularly your respiratory and
circulatory systems. Trekking at high altitude
requires a greater level of fitness than trekking at
sea level. A training regime is recommended before
you go. See Chapter 5 for some training advice.
Do I need a guide?
Yes. Recent changes to the trekking permit system in
Nepal means that you must obtain a TIMS (Trekkers
Information Management System) Card before you
can trek in any area of Nepal. This system is now
in place to attempt to stop trekkers getting lost/
going missing as had happened in the past. Now,
a series of checkpoints are in place in the Khumbu
Valley– some ridiculously close to the previous – in
order to record your details and whereabouts.
The TIMS Card can only be issued by a trekking
agency that is registered with TAAN (Trekking Agents
Association Nepal)
Porters
QUESTIONS YOU MAY BE ASKING10REMEMBER TO BREATHE
Along with the TIMS Card, you are required to take a
Nepalese “guide” with you. The cost of this should
be about 1200 NRP per day for the guide. This
includes his food. Be sure to negotiate this before
you pay any money.
Is the trek safe?
Absolutely! Of course there are dangers, mostly
stemming from altitude related problems. Otherwise
the Khumbu Valley is a very safe place to be. There
is little to no crime, no angst and definitely no
dislike for foreigners. The Nepalese are some of the
most welcoming, friendly and trustworthy people
in the world. However, do practise simple personal
security measures in regard to cash, valuables and
personal items. Typical shop front complete with Zopkyo
Is it hard?
Technically no – the trail is very big and very
obvious, so navigation is not an issue, nor is the
terrain. Apart from some hills and steps, there are
no rock scrambles or points where you would need
to think twice. Physically yes – the rigours of simply
being at high altitude are tough on your body, so
walking up steep hills whilst at altitude is going to
put you under some strain.
Get fit before you go (see Chapter 5).
Trail to Namche
Important note: Expect the guide to know the
route only. DO NOT rely on them for help in an
emergency situation. They probably are NOT
trained in first-aid. Learn about altitude illness
and its signs, symptoms and treatment. Take your
own supply of medication and learn when, what,
how and why to take it if you need.
Where do I get food and water on the trek?
There are numerous small streams and water points
all along the trail. This water is clear and clean, but
does need to be purified or treated in some manner
before drinking. There are also many teahouses that
sell food, snacks, bottled water and other drinks.
See Chapter 9 for more information about teahouses.