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Throwing LAB
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ThRowinG LAb:
TECHNICAL THROWING MANUAL FOR THE HIGHLAND GAMES
By Matt Vincent
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©Matt Vincent, 2013 www.mattvincent.net
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
BEFORE YOU EMBARK ON ANY PHYSICAL FITNESS PROGRAM, PLEASE CONSULT WITH YOUR DOCTOR.
BOOK MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR RECORDED BY ANY MEANS WITHOUT WRITTEN CONSENT OF AUTHOR.
COPYRIGHT 2013 BY MATT VINCENT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Edited by Laura Koss
Frame by Frame Photography by Brock Gomez www.brockgomez.com Artistic Photography By Mike Buck Photography Mike Buck Photography
Cover Art by Brad Jensen @Bricks and Bombs with Photo from Mike Buck
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction by Steve Pulcinella - 4 Throwing LAB - 5
Basic Principals of Throwing LAB - 6
Basics for Throwing in Highland Games - 8 Braemar - 11
Open Stone - 14
Weights 56 & 28 - 25
Hammers 22 & 16 - 30
Caber - 37
Sheaf - 40
Weight over Bar - 46 Off Weight Implements -48
DIY Caber - 49
Gear - 51
Programming - 54 Outro - 60
Acknowledgements - 61
Reference Pictures – 64
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Introduction
By Steve Pulcinella
The first time Matt Vincent walked into Iron Sport I didn’t know him by name, but
I did know him by one story that a strongman buddy of mine had told me earlier
that year. My buddy had told me that he was down south doing a strongman
contest and there was some guy down there competing in a full Luchador
costume. Not only was he competing with this Mexican wrestling mask on, but he
had WON the contest and pissed off the other competitors in the process. I just
remember thinking, “What an odd thing to do.” I didn’t make the connection at
first that Matt was the Luchador in question, but he went on to impress me with
his strength and skill in the gym that day. When I told my strongman buddy about
this impressive, young guy named Matt Vincent that had wandered into the gym
that day and threw a lot of big weight around he got all excited and exclaimed,
“That’s the Luchador!”
Since that first day Matt used to roll into town every few months and train while
he was in the Philly area. We got to talking one day and he mentioned that he
also threw the shot in college. It was a no-brainer; I asked him if he ever thought
about giving up strongman and doing Highland Games instead. I explained to him
that it was nothing but throwing events, there are so many contests that you can
compete all over the country just about every weekend, and you actually make
decent money, have a lot of fun AND wear a kilt.
Just as I suspected, Matt was a natural right away. He went home and
immediately found meets to enter and his own equipment to train on. The next
couple times he came into town we went out to my field to practice. I have a
pretty good eye for talent when it comes to throwing and I remember telling Matt
that he not only was future pro caliber but soon would be a top level pro if he
wanted to be. But even I couldn’t see just how fast his star would rise.
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Matt possesses all the qualities of the great champions before him - guys like Jim
McGoldrick and Ryan Vierra - the rare combination of strength, speed, timing,
patience and brains. Each one of these guys was a student of throwing and
constantly working in relentless pursuit of the “perfect throw.” When a guy like
that imparts his training knowledge you better believe it is prudent to perk up and
listen. And that is what Matt is doing here in this book. In the grand tradition of
the Highland Games culture, he is giving back to the sport.
Throwing LAB
Throwing has and will always be something that I love. I started throwing Shot-
put for track and field when I was 12years old. This continued through High
school and added the discus to my arsenal. During that time I was able to see
some moderate success. My best throw, coming at my final meet on my final
throw, 59’11.75”. It was good enough for my third state championship. My
throws were good enough to help me get the chance to continue throwing into
college. My time in college was not exactly focused on throwing. Don’t get me
wrong I still love to throw, but I had a good time in college. My collegiate years
brought some actual technical gains to my throws. Throwing Shotput, Discus, and
Hammer taught me different things. Now as an adult I can look back and see
different aspects of all of them that transfer to the Highland Games.
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The Highland Games have been a great outlet for me. It is everything I love about
throwing and none of the bullshit that came with doing it in college. I get to do it
for me and me alone. I still love spending hours out alone in a parking lot,
working the throws. Seeing what can affect some slight positive change. The
beauty of throwing is that there is no perfect (or at least I will never see it). This is
the beauty of throwing, it can always be improved. With the major points being
Strength, Speed, and Technique you have to maintain a consistent improvement
to all of them or one will suffer. I have been throwing for the last 18 years and I
am still hitting all time PRs. In a relative short amount of time I have been able to
come into the Highland Games (4 years as of end of 2012) and win three Amateur
World Championships as well as my 1st Professional Title. This sport is getting
more and more competitive. I am just trying to pass on some of the information I
have acquired.
What it comes down to is I love throwing. Training LAB details how to properly
set up a full seasons worth of training to be a thrower. Throwing LAB is going to
break down all the throws into all of the individual steps. This is what I am
thinking about technically when I throw. Hitting these positions is key to set
yourself up to throw to the best of your ability.
Technique is a big part of the puzzle. It doesn’t do you any good to be really
strong and dynamic if you cannot get into position to use it. This will point you in
the right direction so that you can begin making adjustments big and small to add
inches and feet to your throws. Now get to work and start throwing FARTHER!!!
Basic Principles of Throwing LAB
There are a few things to think about when doing drills. Drills are not meant to be
treated as if distance matters. Instead, take time to correctly establish good
patterns and habits while muscle memory to kick in.
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Drilling
Use the drills for their intended purpose. They
are designed to improve specifics that are
important to the entire throw. Work on
mastering these basics and keep focused on
what you want to accomplish. Work on one
issue at a time. Once it is established that you
do it correctly, every time, without thinking,
only then should you move on to the next
problem. For example, if your goal is to keep
your right foot turning, drill it until your foot
turns automatically.
Throwing is a Repetition
Game
The more you throw, the better you will throw. It will take 1,000 good reps to get
solid, then another 100,000 get good. I say “good” reps because if you throw a lot
without consciously correcting the problems that cause you to throw poorly, then
you are not fixing anything. Instead, you are reinforcing poor throwing technique.
The idea behind this, is that without a solid understanding of the basics, there is
little opportunity to make gains or improve important aspects of the throw. 90%
of the throw must be done correctly for it to work. The final 10% makes the
difference. For example, a balanced landing with your feet in the right place is
the necessary 90%. Making minor balance and foot placement corrections within
that 90% will take your throw to the next level. Only then should you begin
working on speed, lifting at the end, blocking harder, and/or driving to the front.
When the 90% becomes automatic, you may then adjust the last 10%, one
variable at a time.
Remember, this takes time. Stay focused and get after it.
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Basics of Throwing in the Highland Games
The Trig:
Standard Trig
The trig is the rectangle box from where you throw. The size of the box may vary,
with a max length of 9’. The Open Stone is thrown
from a slightly shorter trig at 7’9”. Width varies
between a standard 4’6” trig and slightly wider winged
trig.
Winged Trig
The winged trig is the most common trig for throwers
in the U.S. It is used for 4 of the 9 events, for both
stones and weights. Hammer uses a toe board as
well, but does not use a box.
The winged trig is exactly like the standard trig, but
with a 45-degree angle that extends for 18”
at the trig (toe board), making the box wider.
The same length applies to both the
Standard and Winged Trigs. Rules vary
slightly for throwing from each.
Rules:
Standard Trig
Different rules apply for each event, but
there are basic rules for throwing out of a
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trig. You can start with one foot in and one foot out of the box. You can also
finish with one foot in and one foot out, as long as one foot remains inside the
trig, on the trig, at all times. Your foot cannot go past the back line, or past the
front of the trig to the side of the toe board.
Winged Trig
The out of bounds lines extend from the Standard Trig, and therefore you cannot
go out of these lines. This tends to confuse some throwers, but if you are
throwing correctly and efficiently, you will not have a problem.
Scoring
The day is scored collectively for all events and the lowest score of the day overall
wins. 1st place is given low score and each place goes up by one point. To be
successful in the games, the key is to do well in all 9 events. You have a great
chance of winning overall by staying in the top 2 or 3 for each event, despite
never winning a single event.
Technical Guide Reference
In this section, I will explain basic terms used throughout this manual to explain
how to throw. Familiarizing yourself with these terms will help you grasp more
easily what I want to convey. Keep in mind that I use Olympic throwing
terminology such as Shot Put, Discus, and Hammer.
Throwing will be explained for a right-handed thrower, as I am writing from a
right-handed point of view. If you are left handed, just hold this up to a mirror,
and that should take care of it.
The most important terminology is for the layout of the trig. Like the face of a
clock, front and center toward the throwing area is the front or 12 o’clock, the
back of the trig is 6 o’clock, and the sides are 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively.
Important Terms
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Sector: The throwing area where you want the implement to land. This is also
described as 12 o’clock.
Starting Position: Foot placement and body alignment for beginning the throw.
Power Position: Movements and technique to get from the starting position to
the position when you begin firing for release. This is the position where you
should be fully loaded and ready to explode into the implement.
The Finish: This will take you from the Power Position to release. Being able to
properly transfer all of the momentum you have built up until this point into the
implement is the key to finishing strong and throwing far. Finishing a throw is the
difference between a good and a great throw.
Push to the Right (or left if you are left handed): Refers to generating power for
all events. Keep your core tight and push the implement with your right side
instead of pulling with left. This movement involves, in order, the right foot,
knee, hip, core, shoulder, and finally, hand.
Explanation of Events
There are a total of 9 events. Not every game includes all 9, and most
international games have 8. Usually, Sheaf is omitted from international
competition. The following is the traditional order of events:
1. Braemar Stone
2. Open Stone
3. Heavy Weight for Distance
4. Light Weight for Distance
5. Heavy Hammer
6. Light Hammer
7. Caber
8. Sheaf
9. Weight over Bar
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Braemar
The Braemar, the heavier of the two stone events, is the first event of the day
when throwing in traditional order. The original weight of the Braemar is
approximately 28 pounds, but most games throw a slightly lighter stone of 22 –
25 pounds. It is thrown using one arm and no approach. Because rules can vary
with Braemar, follow rules set by the judge that are specific to each competition.
Hold the stone with one hand and throw it out and into the throwing area by
pushing, rather than throwing, much like shot putting. Standing with one foot
against the trig, turn your upper body toward the back of the box while leaning
over. This position, cocked and loaded, is the Power Position. With both legs
bent, balanced on the balls of your feet, and in an athletic position, you have as
much kinetic energy loaded as possible. From this position, drive through the
ground, into your hand, finally pushing the stone as far as you can.
Standard Rules
As mentioned earlier, rules can vary from competition to competition and the
judge always has the final say. There are, however, standard rules that must be
followed for every competition. You cannot make an approach while throwing
Braemar. One foot is up against, or next to, the trig and the other foot is toward
the back of the box. You can reverse your feet after the throw, but one foot must
remain in the designated trig. Again, follow rules specific to each competition. If
you have questions, ask.
Technical Breakdown
Starting Position
Place your front foot (non-dominant foot) against the trig while facing 3
o’clock.
Spread your back foot toward the back of the trig, just a little more than
shoulder-width apart.
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Hold the stone to your neck and jaw, by your ear, with your right hand.
Hold your left arm straight out, keeping it relaxed.
Getting to the Power Position
Remain balanced on the balls of your feet for
the entire throw. Keeping your heels off the
ground will help generate force.
Shift 90% of your weight back onto your right
leg.
Your left leg should stay relatively straight,
with hips facing between 3 and 5 o’clock.
Rotate shoulders and head to 6 o’clock,
keeping left arm straight and relaxed.
The Power Position is a common position, used for Stone and Weight for Distance
events. Your legs are loaded with as much torque as possible, and from this
position, you will begin the finish to your throws. Think of this position as cocking
a gun, and from here you pull the trigger.
The Finish
The throw begins with the lower body. Begin turning the right leg and pushing
the hip out toward the throwing area while the upper body remains back, toward
6 o’clock, for as long as possible. The separation between the upper and lower
body will generate force and create a whip-like feeling to transfer force from the
feet, through the hips, then to the shoulder, and finally to the hand releasing the
stone. This is a violent movement with a lot happening, quickly. Once the Power
Position is reached, you must accelerate hard to achieve the whip and throw as
far as possible.
From the Power Position, the first move is to turn the right foot.
Keep your upper body turned toward 6 o’clock for as long as possible,
maintaining a separation between the upper and lower body.
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Continue to turn your right foot while pushing the knee in, toward the
throwing area.
The left arm is straight. Begin to open your arm at the same time your right
knee turns.
Begin to lift your right hip and drive behind your foot and knee, toward the
throwing area.
Keep your left arm straight and even with hip.
Straighten and lift your left leg while pushing your hip back. Rotate your
right hip into the left side and toward the throwing area as much as
possible. This creates the lift needed on the throw.
Begin to bend your left arm into a 90-degree angle and pull inward while
the left side is firm from foot to arm. This final bend and pull, known as The
Block, is the last bit of acceleration that pushes the right shoulder.
Push with your right foot, through the ground, to the hip, and extend the
arm pushing the stone out and into the throwing area.
The final push comes from your finger tips giving a final flip into the stone.
The final flip may seem minor, but is the difference between average and
great throws.
Braemar Cues
1. Focus out of the trig as long as possible.
2. Turn the right foot and drive the hip out.
3. Block hard, pushing the right side out to the sector.
Reverse Reversing refers to the switching of feet at the finish of the throw in an attempt
to prevent fouling. It is not a necessary part of the throw, and it is possible to lose
distance when throwing heavier stones because force is no longer applied once
your feet leave the ground. Throwers often reverse incorrectly, attempting to
mimic other throwers. Before reversing, I recommend getting comfortable with
the movements of hitting the stone as hard as possible, all the way through, and
stopping on balance.
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Open Stone
Open Stone is the lighter of the two stone events, usually weighing between 16
and 18 pounds. This event is similar to, and has inspired, the Olympic shot put.
The stone is thrown with a full approach, starting at the back of the trig (7’6” line)
and thrown with one hand, any way you choose. Finish by launching the stone
out and into the throwing area and you staying in the designated area. The three
styles used for throwing the open stone are Modified South African (MSA), Full
Spin, and the Glide. I will cover points and throwing technique for each.
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Standard Rules
A full approach can be taken
with this event and you may
begin with one foot outside
the throwing area, as long as
one foot remains inside the
box at all times. The foot
finishing outside the box
may be outside the 4’6” side
lines, but not past the near
side of the toe board.
Between those spots, any approach to throw the stone with one hand is legal.
Basics
The Open Stone is a natural progression of the Braemar and also uses the Power
Position. The technique for this event is nothing more than a rolling start to hit
the Power Position with momentum. This momentum helps to build speed,
allowing you to throw farther.
To create power, your right foot must keep moving ahead of your shoulders. The
further the hips, the more power you will have. For the best throw, finish with a
strong block and be sure that all speed and momentum transfers into the stone.
The best way to gauge if you’ve successfully transferred all of the momentum is if
you are balanced after the throw, without falling in any direction.
Modified South African or MSA
This is the most commonly used approach for the Open Stone.
Technical Breakdown
Starting Position
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Begin with one foot slightly ahead of the
other, in the back of the trig. Turning the
right foot slightly toward 90 degrees will help
make the turn feel more natural.
Keep your left arm extended, chest up, knees
slightly bent, and eyes up and on the horizon
toward the throwing area.
Hold the stone to your neck and jaw, by the
ear, with your right hand.
Getting to the Power Position
As mentioned before, this portion of the throw is
the “rolling start” to get to the Power Position and comprises the first half of the
throw. Once you hit the Power Position, finish as you would for the Braemar
throw.
Get weight to the left foot, kicking right foot through to the center of trig.
Your left leg will drive you toward the center, and the right leg is used to
begin turning your hips.
Keep your left arm long and pointed toward throwing area.
Begin turning your right foot as much as possible in the air, as if kicking a
soccer ball on the way to the trig.
For the right foot to land in the proper position, kick through, leading with
the outside of the foot.
Focus on something on the horizon, out past the throwing area. Keep your
upper body facing the throwing area for as long as possible.
Right foot should touch down on the center of the trig with toes pointed
between 6 and 3 o’clock.
Your left shoulder should be as close to over your right leg as possible. This
is your torque, which launches the shot. Keep your left arm long and loose.
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Continue to turn the right foot, driving the right heel around and pushing
the knee in. The closer this foot points toward 12 o’clock, the more torque
it will create.
Your left foot should land slightly behind the right foot, between 11 and 12
o’clock.
Left leg is down, shoulders back. This is the Power Position.
You are now in the Power Position. Getting the left foot down, in the proper
position, is critical. Without both feet on the ground, you cannot properly apply
force to the stone. If your foot is too far past 12 o’clock, you will block your hips
and be unable to finish the throw. Too far past 11 o’clock, you will pass the block
position. Your weight must shift to the left leg again for the block position. This
will be addressed later, but for now, get the left foot down.
The Finish
From this point, the finish will be the same, regardless of which technique is used.
After the left foot lands, move the right foot quickly to point toward 12 o’clock,
while turning the hips. Keep the upper body back and left arm long with the right
hip in front of the stone. The longer you can stay back letting the legs work, the
farther the stone will go.
Extend your left leg, pushing the left hip back. This motion accelerates the
right hip out toward the throwing area.
Pull the chest open with your left arm.
Pull your left arm in to accelerate the right shoulder. Similar to how an ice
skater gains speed by pulling the arms in while spinning, the left arm
remains long for the entirety of the throw, then pulls in to gain speed
creating a whip on the right side.
Left shoulder, side, hip, and leg should be aligned and firm.
This block stops your momentum, transferring it into the implement.
Drive the right leg around the left side and extend the right arm.
Your right hip finishes up and out on the left side.
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Push your left leg up to begin the reverse. The right foot is off the ground
and finished pushing.
With your right hand, begin to push the stone out and toward the throwing
area.
Fully extend your right arm and hand over the trig.
Flip the stone off your fingers for the final push, rolling it off the hand like a
basketball.
The left and right feet will change positions, and the left leg pulls you back
into the trig by swinging out and over it. This reverse will help save the
throw.
Full Spin
The full spin is an advanced technique used to throw Open Stone and is also used
by top track athletes to throw Shot Put.
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Technical Breakdown
For the full spin, you will add a rolling start to the MSA . This start uses the right
leg to kick through and position the hips farther in front of the upper body, giving
you more speed and drive out the back, which allows for a farther throw.
Starting Position
Face away from the throwing area.
Begin with both feet slightly more than
shoulder-width apart.
Extend and loosen the left arm.
Hold the stone to the neck and jaw, by
the ear with your right hand.
Getting to Power Position
Shift your weight to the right leg and
turn upper body slightly toward the
right.
Shift weight back over to the left side. Keep your head and eyes at the
horizon.
Bend knees into an athletic position. Keep your left elbow fixed inside the
left knee. Imagine there is a pole running between your elbow and knee
preventing your elbow from moving past that point.
Begin turning your left foot until it points toward 3 o’clock.
Keep right leg long as it lifts off the ground.
Your left arm is straight, pointing at 3 o’clock.
Continue to turn your left foot toward the throwing area, 12 o’clock, while
the right knee is out over the toes. All of your weight is on your left leg.
Point left arm toward the throwing area.
Right leg is hanging back, out of the ring.
At this point your left leg stops turning. Begin to kick the right leg through.
Keep left arm and eyes toward throwing area for as long as possible.
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Kick your right leg through, past the left leg. This provides the linear drive
to the center of the trig.
Continue the motion of the right foot and hip until your left side begins to
turn.
Drive off the left foot and get the right foot down into the middle of the
ring.
From this point, the throw is exactly the same as the MSA, including the finish:
Your left shoulder should be as close to over your right leg as possible. This
is your torque, which launches the shot. Your left arm should still be long
and loose.
Continue to turn the right foot, driving the right heel around and pushing
the knee in. The closer this foot points toward 12 o’clock, the more torque
it will create.
The left foot should land slightly behind right foot, between 11 and 12
o’clock.
Left leg is down, shoulders back. This is the Power Position.
You are now in the power position. Getting the left foot down, in the proper
position, is critical. Without both feet on the ground, you cannot properly apply
force to the stone. If your foot is too far past 12 o’clock, you will block your hips
and be unable to finish the throw. Too far past 11 o’clock, you will pass the block
position. Your weight must shift to the left leg again for the block position. This
will be addressed later, but for now, get the left foot down.
The Finish
From this point, the finish will be the same, regardless of which technique is used.
After the left foot lands, move the right foot quickly to point toward 12 o’clock,
while turning the hips. Keep the upper body back and left arm long with the right
hip in front of the stone. The longer you can stay back letting the legs work, the
farther the stone will go.
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Extend your left leg, pushing the left
hip back. This motion accelerates the
right hip out toward the throwing
area.
Pull the chest open with your left arm.
Pull your left arm in to accelerate the
right shoulder. Similar to how an ice
skater gains speed by pulling the arms
in while spinning, the left arm remains
long for the entirety of the throw,
then pulls in to gain speed creating a
whip on the right side.
Left shoulder, side, hip, and leg should
be aligned and firm.
This block stops your momentum,
transferring it into the implement.
Drive the right leg around the left side
and extend the right arm.
Your right hip finishes up and out on the left side.
Push your left leg up to begin the reverse. The right foot is off the ground
and finished pushing.
With your right hand, begin to push the stone out and toward the throwing
area.
Fully extend your right arm and hand over the trig.
Flip the stone off your fingers for the final push, rolling it off the hand like a
basketball.
The left and right feet will change positions, and the left leg pulls you back
into the trig by swinging out and over it. This reverse will help save the
throw.
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The Glide
Of the three most common styles to throw, the glide is the least used. It is a
consistent technique and works especially well for taller, stronger athletes. In
fact, gliders have won gold medals in the 2008 and 2012 Olympics. So if you think
that this style is dated and cannot work for you then you are wrong. The glide is
easy to do but very tough to master the finer points.
Starting Position
Begin with your back facing the throwing sector
and shoulders square to the back of the trig.
Stand with both feet together and weight on right
foot.
Keep left arm loose and straight, pointing out of
the back of the trig.
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Hold the stone to the side of your jaw with your elbow up and thumb
down.
Getting to the Power Position
Raise left foot while keeping the leg straight and
pointed toward the trig.
Drop the left arm toward the ground and shoulders
will fall.
Focus your eyes on the ground approximately six feet
out of the back of the trig.
Bring the left foot back, kicking back toward the trig,
and at the same time, Push off the right foot, pushing
you across the trig.
Land your right foot at 3 o’clock.
This is the Power Position, with both feet down,
shoulders back, and left arm pointing out of the back of the trig.
The Finish
From this point, the finish will be the same. After the left foot lands, move the
right foot quickly to point toward 12 o’clock, while turning the hips. Keep the
upper body back and left arm long with the right hip in front of the stone. The
longer you can stay back letting the legs work, the farther the stone will go.
Extend your left leg, pushing the left hip back. This motion accelerates the
right hip out toward the throwing area.
Pull the chest open with your left arm.
Pull your left arm in to accelerate the right shoulder. Similar to how an ice
skater gains speed by pulling the arms in while spinning, the left arm
remains long for the entirety of the throw, then pulls in to gain speed
creating a whip on the right side.
Left shoulder, side, hip, and leg should be aligned and firm.
This block stops your momentum, transferring it into the implement.
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Drive the right leg around the left side and extend the right arm.
Your right hip finishes up and out on the left side.
Push your left leg up to begin the reverse. The right foot is off the ground
and finished pushing.
With your right hand, begin to push the stone out and toward the throwing
area.
Fully extend your right arm and hand over the trig.
Flip the stone off your fingers for the final push, rolling it off the hand like a
basketball.
The left and right feet will change positions, and the left leg pulls you back
into the trig by swinging out and over it. This reverse will help save the
throw.
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Open Stone Cues
1. Keep upper body relaxed (glide) or left arm inside of knee(Full/MSA).
2. Maintain your focal point as long as you can.
3. While turning the right foot into the middle, drive the right hip out to the
sector.
4. Block hard with the left side, pushing the right side by it.
5. Explode violently into the stone.
The Weights 56 and 28
Both of the weights are thrown the exact same way. I am not going to just copy
and paste this twice to eat up more paper. If you disagree and think they are
different, then you either need to get stronger or faster.
Standard Rules
The trig, measuring 9 feet, is slightly larger for this event than it is for the stone
events. For these events, you can begin and end the throw with one foot out of
the trig.
Basics
With this throw, both feet begin by facing the sector. At the back right corner,
when facing the sector, the left foot is in the trig and the right foot is out of the
trig. From this position, begin swinging the weight, casting it out in front of you.
Then, jump and rotate three quarters around counterclockwise, landing with both
feet facing 3 o’clock. Push the weight by you again and jump again, driving to the
front of the trig. This jump will be a full 360 degree rotation and you will land in
the same position at the front of the trig, pushing the weight up and out into the
sector and finally, letting go.
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Starting Position
Begin in the back right corner of the
trig with one foot in and one foot out,
both feet facing the trig, shoulder-
width apart, and weight grounded
between legs.
Begin moving the weight side to side
using shoulders and hips – do not use
your arm to muscle the weight. You
will lose. Keep your arm long and
loose.
Swing the weight behind your body,
rotating shoulders back with the weight. Keep the arm that is holding the
weight close to 90 degrees for the entire throw.
When the weight hits its peak height at the back of the swing, drop with
your legs and fall with the weight to increase speed.
Using your upper body, bring the weight back around and push with your
shoulder (not arm) out in front to 12 o’clock, at about eye level. This is the
cast.
Getting to the Power Position
While the weight is out in front, before it reaches 9 o’clock, put your right
foot down in the back corner of the trig and left foot shoulder-width apart
from it. Face both feet toward 3 o’clock.
o When I throw, landing with my left foot in front of the right helps to
keep my shoulders back and puts me in a more balanced position to
begin applying force to the weight.
With both feet down and weight back at 9 o’clock, sink with legs and push
the weight toward 6 o’clock. The more you can push the weight back and
away from you, the more you can accelerate it by driving against it, creating
an elliptical orbit.
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o You can land with your feet slightly closed
off here. Left is farther right than the
right. This will help you drive straight to
the trig.
When the weight hits 6 o’clock, use your legs to
drive against the weight, sprinting to the trig
against the weight. Push aggressively off the
right foot, then the left.
You are travelling toward the front of the trig
and will land in the same position as before,
with both feet pointed toward 3 o’clock and
with shoulders back and catching weight near 9
o’clock.
Since you cannot apply force to the weight while in the air, get back to the
ground as quickly as
possible. Keep your legs
active and bent, working
the weight. Remain
longer on the ground
than in the air.
This is the Power
Position.
Finishing the Throw
There is a lot to accomplish in
this section and the motions to
finish the throw are executed
quickly.
Begin with legs bent,
pushing the weight with
your shoulders again.
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Just like the Stone event, turn
your right foot with the hips to
face the sector.
When the weight hits in the
back and begins moving from
6 o’clock, shift your weight
from the right foot to the left,
while the left arm comes
around to block.
Bring hips through and
straighten the legs. Lift the
weight up and out at a 45-
degree angle.
When the weight leaves your
hand, all of your weight will be
on your left foot with your
arm out to the side blocking
aggressively.
If your left foot is still moving at the finish, put more weight on it to keep it
fixed and stable so all of the force transfers from your body to the
implement.
Drills
I do one turns and line drills. One turns help to achieve balance while spinning
with the weights, and line drills help to apply linear force to the implement and
prevent fouling.
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One Turns
For this simple drill,
begin in the position in
which you land after
the cast. Standing at
the back of the trig
with both feet facing 3
o’clock, begin swinging
the weight in front,
then behind you.
Then, push the weight
down to 6 o’clock and
drive hard against it,
getting all the way to the trig. From here, you are in the Power Position, but
moving slightly slower than a full throw. Now, apply force, being sure to finish on
balance, and push the weight out into the sector.
When my one turns feel strong and balanced, I throw my best in weights. Once
you are comfortable with this drill, you can think of the full throw as nothing
more than an easy, rolling start to hitting this drill. Hit the sprint aggressively and
attack the release on balance.
Line Drills
Even though you spin when throwing weights, you must be able to apply linear
force to the implement without drifting and fouling out of the left side of the trig.
Line drills can help eliminate that drift.
Draw a straight line on the ground, or find one in a parking lot. Begin in the
position in which you land after the cast, like the one turn, but without releasing
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the weight. Begin pushing with weight with your legs, turning, and back down to
catch and push again. Start slowly, gradually building speed over 3-5 turns.
Concentrate on traveling in a straight line. Focus on pushing the weight back
down to a low point at 6 o’clock. With 6 o’clock as its low point, it is easier to
drive directly against the weight while moving in a straight line to the trig without
drifting to the left and causing an unnecessary foul.
Cues
1. Cast the weight past you.
2. Catch the weight at 9 o’clock and drive down and away to 6 o’clock.
3. Drive aggressively off the right leg toward the trig. This is where all the
power comes from.
4. Land, driving the weight out to the sector by pushing with the right, while
lifting with the legs.
Hammer 22 and 16
Similar to the Weights for Distance, you will throw both a heavy (22#) and a light
(16#) hammer. Essentially, this event is a wind and release, in which you wind the
hammer around your head 2 or 3 times and finish by throwing it over your
shoulder and out into the throwing area. Both the heavy and light hammers are
thrown using the same technique. The heavy focuses a bit more on strength
while the light focuses on speed.
A major difference between throwing Hammer and the other events is that you
can wear blades attached to your boots. Blades dig into the ground to keep your
feet planted firmly, which is helpful to create force with your legs to use on the
ball.
Standard Rules
As with all distance events, you will stand behind a trig. Begin at about one foot
behind the trig, facing away from the throwing area with both feet firmly planted
at shoulder-width apart, or just slightly wider. From here, the hammer is thrown
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out and into the sector for
distance. You cannot fall over
the trig or out of the side.
Basics
Although there are many
subtle differences that may
be used in the Hammer event,
basic techniques must be
mastered before
implementing them.
There are two approaches to the Hammer. One approach, the standard throw,
starts on the right, winding three times. The other, the dynamic start, starts on
the left, swinging out in front and over to the right, winding twice. Either
approach generates force in the same way.
The most difficult and basic concept to grasp is to PUSH the ball. Push the ball
with the right side, applying force to gain more distance. It is a push-and-pull
motion in which you catch the hammer over the right side to counter it and apply
force.
For the release, catch it, balanced, on the right side and violently PUSH around
and out into the sector while blocking with the left side. Blocking transfers all of
the force to the implement. Like the weights and stones, force is lost if you fall
away from the throw. To ensure the most force possible, plant both feet firmly,
or move just the left foot toward the trig on release. With hands moving upward,
fully extend the legs, lifting the hammer up and out.
Technical Breakdown
Starting Position (Standard Start)
Stand behind the trig, over to whichever side is necessary to place the ball
for the start of the throw.
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Place the ball on the ground behind you, close to 10 o’clock behind your
right side.
Stand with feet shoulder-width or slightly farther apart.
With the majority of your weight on the right foot, pull with the left blade.
Begin by dragging the weight out in front of you.
Starting Position (Dynamic Start)
Begin with the hammer in your left hand, back toward 2 o’clock.
Swing straight out toward 6 o’clock, then grab the hammer with the right
hand.
Continue the swing, bringing the hammer behind you on your right side,
pushing back as far as possible.
From this point, start as you would in Second Wind, as explained in the next
section.
I’ve had the most success using the Second Wind technique because it helps
me to remain on the right side more effectively than Three Winds. I also
prefer the rhythm of the cast, speed wind, and release wind. Put simply, it
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seems that the fewer times I have to wind around my head, the less
opportunity there is to screw up.
Starting the Throw
1st Wind
With the hammer sitting on the ground at 10 o’clock, hold the end of the
handle with both hands as if holding a golf club or baseball bat.
Drag the hammer through 6 o’clock with the right side.
Lift the hammer overhead, pushing the ball up and out, allowing gravity to
help build speed.
Turn your upper body and sink the hips keeping your weight on the right
side.
Catch the hammer back behind your right side.
Use this built-up torque to sit against the hammer and push with the right.
Force is generated by sitting back and countering the hammer with your hips.
This is why the top throwers move their hips in circles, moving against it,
generating force.
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2nd Wind
The vast majority of speed is gained in this wind.
Push the hammer through a low point at 8 o’clock. Lift and keep
countering the hammer, using your blades to pull yourself into position.
Push the ball as far to the left as you can while using the left side to push it
up. Lengthen your arms and get the hammer as high over 10 o’clock as
possible.
When pushing the weight up, come onto your toes, push the knees over
your toes, and extend the hips.
When you turn over to catch on the right side, sink down with the hips and
sit back. Push hard with the right side. Sinking will create a ton of speed.
Push the hammer through a low point at 7 o’clock. Low points drift closer
to 6 o’clock with each wind which keeps the hammer on your right side.
3rd Wind (Getting to the Power Position)
Speed has increased steadily with each wind. Now, keeping your arms
loose, you will begin putting direction on the throw.
Sit back hard, countering the hammer again. Push the hammer by with
your right side.
Keeping arms long, let the hammer
extend as far into the sector as
possible to elongate the orbit and
create an ellipse.
When the hammer reaches
overhead, allow your head to go
back. This will lengthen your arms.
While extending your hips, knees
should be over your toes.
Catch the hammer on the right side,
and push with the right side,
beginning to counter back again.
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Balanced, this loaded right side is the Power Position.
The faster you are moving, the smaller the window of catching a solid
Power Position is.
Finishing the Throw
Push the ball violently with the right hand again while driving back against
it.
This time, begin blocking with the left leg.
Keep your arms as long as possible and push the hammer out into the
sector with the right side.
Turn your head to follow your hands and bring your head back.
Fully extend your body and lean toward the trig while pushing everything
out the left side block.
Let go of the hammer and finish by coming back overhead.
If necessary, take a small step with your left foot toward the trig.
If you fall back and away from the hammer, you are not driving it out with the
force built up during the winds. Like the other throws, you want all of the energy
transferred into the hammer. Counter with winds 1-3 and drive it out on the
release.
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Drills
5-10 Winds
This drill is exactly what it sounds like. Do 5-10 winds while gradually building
speed.
Begin as slowly as possible, feeling the hammer slowly build speed
generated from countering the hips and pushing right.
Keep arms long, like loose ropes. Remember, your legs and hips are
throwing the hammer, not your arms. The looser they are, the more speed
you will gain.
1 Wind and Release
This drill will help with balance and the finish. Start slow, adding a little more
force for each one, and continue until the distance plateaus.
Start.
Do first wind.
Counter against hammer.
Finish.
Hammer Cues
1. Keep arms loose.
2. Keep weight on right side.
3. Push with the right hand.
4. Catch quickly. The faster turnover, the more time you have to push and
apply force.
5. Lift on two.
6. Head back on three.
7. Finish out past the block. Continue driving out, without falling back away
from throw. You should have all of your weight moving toward the throw.
If a slight step toward the trig is needed to keep balance that is fine.
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Caber
The Caber is the marquee event of the games, and also one of the most
challenging. Throwing far in all the events is great, but turning big cabers gets the
crowd going faster than anything else. It is the only event judged on accuracy
rather than distance or height. Once the caber is picked, run with it while
balancing it vertically. Stop and flip the caber end over end.
Standard Rules
The caber is awarded a score based on the attempted turn. A perfect score of
12:00 is awarded when the bottom end of the caber, the end in your hand, is
flipped over and lands pointing directly away from you at 12:00, like the hand of a
clock.
Any deviation from 12:00 on the turn’s landing is counted down to the
appropriate time as long as the caber turns through 90 degrees on the flip (10:00,
1:00, etc.). If it doesn’t, it is given a degree score up to 90 degrees by a side judge
and the closer to 90 degrees, the better. The only other option is if it lands
around the 9:00/3:00 range without the head passing through 90 degrees. This is
called a fifer.
Basics
There is no out-of-bounds, unless there is a fence or it is noted by the head judge.
You will be handed the caber vertically and from the moment you take it, you are
on your own. Once you have the caber balanced, lean it against your shoulder
and begin working your hands toward the bottom. The caber will be picked,
caught, and balanced.
Attempt to turn the caber end over end either by running and throwing or
standing and throwing. Larger cabers require running to build momentum to get
them to turn. Stop and pull on the bottom of the caber, flipping it end over end.
Hopefully it will land pointing directly away from you, at 12:00.
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Technical Breakdown
This throw will be broken
down by parts, just as the
other throws are, but with
the addition of “the pick.”
The pick is the portion of the
throw where you lift the
caber up, then catch it.
The Pick
Once you receive the
caber and it is balanced vertically, begin to bend down with the caber
leaning against one shoulder. Either shoulder is fine. Choose the one that
is more comfortable for you.
Use the side of your head and shoulder to keep the caber steady and tight.
As you bend down, work your hands to the bottom, keeping your fingers
interlocked.
At this point, you will be bent forward, leaning into the caber, with your
hands close to the bottom. The caber will be pinned using your neck,
shoulder, and hands, squeezing with your palms.
Lift the caber with a pop, a quick lift from the hips. The toss should be
vertical. Shoot your hands under the bottom in one, quick movement. This
will take plenty of practice to be able to do well.
With your feet in an athletic position, catch the caber while keeping it
pinned with your shoulder and neck, and with your hands under the
bottom.
For more control, hold the caber around the bottom edge with half of your
fingers on the side and half underneath.
Starting the Throw (Getting to the Power Position)
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At this point, you are standing and balancing the caber.
Now, begin to get the caber moving. It is important to keep your points of
contact with the caber tight to help keep it vertical, balanced, and in the
same position.
Run as far as you need to with the caber still pinned to your shoulder. As
you run, drive the top end forward, like pushing a sled.
Once you build speed, come to an abrupt stop. Do not jump into a stop
because the force will bury you and you won’t be able to pull or turn the
caber.
When your feet stop, momentum will pull the caber away from your
shoulder.
Feet square, knees bent, hands centered, and caber just moving away is the
Power Position.
Finishing the Throw
Explode through the hips,
popping the hips.
Keeping your hands close
to your body, pull your
hands up and over your
head. This pull back will
turn the caber more
effectively.
Drills
Pick and Carries
The first half of picking the caber
and balancing while moving is
the most difficult. Getting
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comfortable with this part will make the finish much easier.
This drill is just what it sounds like. Pick the caber and carry it the length of the
field, or about 100 feet. Then, turn around and go back.
Sheaf
The Sheaf is an event in which you throw a 16# or 20# burlap bag, for height, over
a bar, using a pitchfork. Most people bring their own pitchfork, which is unique to
this event. I recommend using your own fork so you can practice on your own
and familiarize yourself with how the bag leaves the tines. Most pitchforks used
for this event have 2 or 3 tines.
Standard Rules
The goal is to throw the bag over a crossbar supported by two uprights that are
approximately 10 feet apart. The bag can hit the bar and/or the uprights as long
as it travels over the top of the bar and between the uprights. With your back
facing the uprights, you will use the pitchfork to stab the bag and flick to toss it
over the bar.
Basics
Begin facing away from the crossbar, set up by taking a few steps out from under
it. I find that 3 and half steps work well for me, and I use that same distance each
and every time. Determine your left-to-right alignment by shooting for dead
center and adjust according to how the bag is flying that day.
Both methods of throwing involve casting the bag to get it behind you, pushing it
down, then driving it up with the legs. A pop of the hips and a strong left side
block is what causes the bag to leave the tines properly.
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The key to this event is applying force to the bag with your hips, minimally using
your arms. Like the other events, there are important positions to hit and a
strong block is needed at the finish.
Technical Breakdown
The Bag
How your fork digs into the bag makes a big difference in the throw. Push the
fork through one end, or as close to a corner as possible. You want two sides,
giving you the best flick off the tines. Two sides if I am thinking of all bags as a
rectangle, you want the fork to go in the top and out a side.
Starting Foot Position
Push the pitchfork through the bag, as described above.
Take 3-4 steps out from the center, directly under the crossbar.
Position feet shoulder-width apart, with toes slightly out. This helps to get
the hips to fire.
Hold the fork at snatch-grip width. If you are standing straight up, hold the
fork wide enough so the fork passes at hip-level.
Getting to the Power Position
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Bend legs and waist slightly.
Focus on the ground 5 feet in the distance keeping your head in a neutral
position.
Keep your arms long without bending them as you will lose force from your
legs if your arms are bent.
Begin by swinging the bag to your left side, twisting at the hips. Your
shoulders and chest should move as one.
Swing the bag back to your right side. Be sure that it passes the right knee.
When the bag reaches this back point, begin to drive it down toward the
right foot, sinking with it at the hips and keep your upper body close to
vertical while bending the knees.
The low point should be directly over the right foot.
Bend your legs as much as possible without touching the ground.
This is the Power Position.
Finishing the Throw
From this position, begin using your legs to lift the bag.
Everything goes up, like performing a snatch pull.
Drive through the heels and extend the legs violently. Jumping is fine.
The bag will continue on its normal arc because of the shoulder swing but it
will be travelling vertically now because of the leg drive. The path the bag
will take resembles a checkmark rather than an arc.
As the bag accelerates, stiffen your left side and block.
Stop the left arm when it reaches a 90-degree angle to the ground so the
bag flicks off the tines of the fork.
Keep your head still, your legs straight, and continue focusing on your focal
point.
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Keep your head down, find a focal point, and continue to focus on it to decrease
your chances of drifting too far with your left hand, flying in a bad trajectory,
missing the height of the bar, and throwing outside of the uprights. Just like the
throws it has to be a smooth transfer of power from the legs and hips then arms
into the Bag. Just like performing a push press things have to happen in order so
that you are getting leg drive into your hands.
Drills
Bottom-Up
This is a drill I do every time I throw Sheaf just to get myself acclimated to using
my legs rather than my arms to lift. I also take my first throw using this technique
to adjust more quickly. As you perform this drill, concentrate on using your legs
to accelerate the bag, leaving your arms to do very little.
Begin in the Power Position.
Lay the bag and tines on the ground just in front of your right foot.
Cock arms accordingly, with your left hand on the tines by your right foot
and your right hand at your side at 90 degrees to the ground. Bend your
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knees as low as you can. Sink your hips and try to get your back upright.
From this position, finish the throw as you would from the Power Position.
This is nothing more than an aggressive snatch pull and block on the left
side from here.
When switching from this drill into a full throw, I recommend adding an easy
rolling start and getting as close to the low position as possible. From there, keep
adding a little more back swing past the right knee.
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Weight Over Bar
Weight Over Bar is the last event of the
traditional order and there are just two
main ways to throw it, the standing
throw and the spinning throw. Not all
competitions allow the spinning throw.
Overseas competitions allow the
standing throw only.
Standard Rules
In this event, a 56# weight is thrown as high as possible, with one hand, over a
bar. Weight Over Bar uses the same standard as Sheaf and the same rules apply,
in that the weight must go over the bar and between the standards.
Speaking from experience, this event can easily make or break your games. With
a 6-point lead going into Weight Over Bar at the 2012 Celtic Classic, I couldn’t get
it over the bar and it cost me the win.
Basics
The weight is cast with a swing like a kettle bell. Sink and pull to lift and
accelerate the weight. The spin makes it similar to the throw for distance, but
with a much steeper orbit.
Technical Breakdown (Standing Throw)
Starting Foot Position
Position yourself centered, directly under the bar and take between a half
and a full step out. For me, placing my heels six inches from the bar works
best.
Begin with your feet shoulder-width apart, toes pointed slightly out, and
weight between them, like setting up for snatch.
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Your left hand will remain on your left thigh for the entire throw. Once in
the Power Position, use it to push up.
Starting the Throw (Getting to the Power
Position)
Pick up the weight with your dominant hand and begin
with a light swing. There is a greater chance of losing
rhythm by starting with an aggressive first swing
because immediately there is more force to counter,
so I prefer a light starting swing.
Swing small on the side, then back out front and
between your legs.
Once the weight passes through your legs, keep your
legs tall but slightly bent.
The weight will reach a high point between your legs
and will feel weightless. When it feels weightless, sink
at the hips and knees with the weight, allowing it to fall to a low point
between your feet. Keep the upper body upright.
When the weight hits the low point and your arm is long, this is the Power
Position.
Finishing the Throw
When you reach the Power
Position, accelerate the weight
by pushing through the feet and
extending the hips. The faster
you can push your legs, more
force will transfer into the
weight, giving it more height.
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As your hips extend, keep your arm long and lean back, finishing with your
head back.
Release the weight up and slightly back. If thrown correctly, the weight will
peak over the bar and fall back to the ground in a smooth arc.
Technical Breakdown (Spinning Throw)
Starting Foot Position
You will determine your alignment within the standards that works best for
you through trial and error. When you do, be consistent and use the same
set up each time.
Begin by facing 90 degrees to the bar, just as you would set up for a one
turn in the Weight for Distance event.
Starting the Throw (Getting to the Power Position)
Set up as you would for a one turn in Weight for Distance.
Cast the weight past you, nearly above your head.
Counter the weight and get both feet down. Catch the weight and drive it
down near your right foot.
The point when the weight reaches the low point near your right foot is the
Power Position.
Finishing the Throw
From the Power Position, jump and shrug, driving up and over the left leg,
much more than you would for the Weight for Distance.
The momentum of the weight’s orbit will take care of turning your body
and the height and steepness will help the trajectory.
Block hard with your left hand, in the direction of the throw.
Push the weight up and out, over the bar.
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*No picture for the spin, since I can’t do it correctly I figured why waste
your time. Plus I think it is Voodoo.
Drill
Opening Height Drills
Having the confidence to know that when you step up, you can get it done on
any throw is necessary to do well at the games. This confidence is what makes
some competitors better than others.
To build your confidence in WOB, prepare and take time to hit 10 throws in a
row at your opening height. Set up consistently every time and get it done.
When you can hit the opening height, consistently, without thinking, then you
are prepared. It’s not about who can throw higher, but who can do it with the
least attempts.
Off Weight Implements
Throwing with implements either slightly heavier or lighter to the standard
weights is a training tool that Track and Field throwers have always used. This will
help develop some sport specific strength for the games. The weights have to still
be in the same ball park so that the technique translates. Since the majority of
the Highland Games implements are heavy already I recommend so just under
weight items. These are especially good for Open Stone, Heavy Weight for
distance, Hammers, and Weight over Bar. The implements that are going to have
the best translation are going to be between 10-15% under the standard weight.
Using a 49# heavy weight for distance for example is going to help you build
speed. You can also take a lot more throws in training to refine your technique.
This will not be a total replacement for throwing the standard weights. Another
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really useful weight for training is a 14# and 20# Hammer. This is something you
should implement in your training when you are feeling slow or beat up from
lifting. Typically a training throw with a slightly underweight implement will be
very similar to Competition weight on game day. You will have some additional
rest as well as adrenaline at your disposal.
Now if you do not have a full run of implements to throw with, you should get the
standard weights first. This is going to another tool that you can put into your
arsenal when the time comes.
Putting this in your training is really simple as well. You can do it a couple of
different ways. One way is throwing the lighter implements before throwing the
standard weights. The other is focusing on the lighter ones for a training cycle to
work on speed. I still recommend taking a couple of throws with the standard
weights to make sure everything is translating.
DIY Caber
Acquiring certain equipment used in the Highland Games, like the caber, can be
difficult and since you need to practice and get the work in, you can build what
you need. The following is a simple list of instructions for how I built my training
caber. You can adjust it so it is suitable for your throwing level. It is a serious
stick, measuring in at 20 feet and 128 pounds with no taper. When I constructed
this, I figured that if I could turn this, I could handle anything in competition.
Materials Needed:
3 pieces of untreated lumber 2 x 6 20
o Length can vary according to your needs.
o Be sure to use untreated lumber. Splinters happen, but there is
less chance of infection with untreated wood. Also, treated
lumber is too heavy.
4 big tubes of Liquid Nail
50 4-inch deck screws
Electric drill
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Skill saw
Electric sander with 40-60 grit sandpaper
Get the lumbar home safely and according to the law, my editor informed me that
maybe the way I did it was not the best way to recommend.
Step 1
Cover one board using two tubes of Liquid Nail. Two tubes may seem excessive,
but it won’t hurt and it doesn’t matter if it’s pretty. Mine did end up looking
pretty, by the way.
Step 2
Place another board on top. Straighten and secure with about 5 screws to hold it
together tightly. Leave five feet near the bottom without screws for shaping with
the skill saw. Place a couple of heavy weights on the boards (I used 100 lb.
weights) and let them sit for about 15 minutes.
Step 3
Repeat steps 1 and 2 and fill these bastards full of screws, leaving the bottom 5
feet free. Let it sit for another 15 minutes.
Step 4
First cuts. Set your skill saw to cut at a 45-degree angle. Start at the bottom,
going up to about 5 feet, gradually making your way out of the board. Do this for
all 4 sides. Repeat this for the bottom end, cutting all four sides perpendicular to
the original cuts. This will shape and round the bottom end.
Step 5
With the sander, shape and smooth the bottom. Sand the portion of the bottom
where your hands and shoulder will come into contact with it well.
Step 6
Have a beer and admire your work. Let it dry for a day. Then, go throw it.
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Gear
Gear is what you need for the games. I bring a ton of shit to the games, and in this section, I’ll break down everything I keep in my travel box. Bringing too much gear is always better than being unprepared. So with the variety of situations you will encounter at the games, try to be ready for it all. If you forget something, chances are, someone else packed it and may lend it to you. However, be as prepared as possible for every game and don’t be that guy who, for every game, is unprepared. For the most part, the gear used for heavy training in the gym is what you will need to pack.
Tape Basic athletic tape is like throwers duct tape. I use it for everything from fixing shoes, taping my thump, torn calluses, supporting my shitty knees, and keeping my glove on.
Gloves
You will need to experiment with gloves. Try a few, and use what works best for
you. I use a tight leather glove, but only in weights for distance.
Sheaf Fork
I highly recommend getting one of your own to practice. Each fork throws a little
differently and getting used to one fork will make a big difference at the games.
Blades
If you want to take throwing seriously, get blades and learn how to use them.
They are a necessity. There is a reason that the top guys in the world use at least
one of them.
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Footwear
I carry a variety of footwear to the games. I throw with a pair of Javelin boots or
high jump shoes. They both have spikes and will hold up to more abuse than any
running shoe will. They only difference between the two is one is a high top and
the other is low.
I use soccer cleats for caber and sheaf. These also come in handy if the weather
leaves the ground sloppy.
Weightlifting shoes are great for WOB. I treat this event like the Olympic lifts,
using the solid heel to drive the weight up.
Tacky
There is a variety of tacky from which to choose. Again, figure out what works for
you. I use 3M spray adhesive in the maroon can. It has just the right stick and can
be found anywhere.
Support and Neoprene
If you are a strength athlete, get familiar with Neoprene. It provides limited
support but will keep everything warm.
Wrist Wraps
Wraps are great to support wrists while throwing stones.
Knee Sleeves
These offer minimal support but great warmth.
Warm Shorts
These are great on cold days and to keep the hips moving on long competition
days.
Liniments
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Liniments are like an external lubricant for the gears. Use these to help with warming your joints and to alleviate pain and soreness. There are many liniments available. Equi-block, Tiger Balm, or any other capsaicin based rubs work best. I highly recommend these types of products, but start light if you haven’t used them. Tiger Balm is the lightest of the three and I recommend using it first. The other two are as strong as nuclear weapons and will heat up uncomfortably if too much is used. Despite my advice to start light, many of you will go full force and ruin a training period.
PVC Roller
A PVC Roller is great because at 6” in diameter, and less than a foot long, it will fit in your bag and you can shove other shit in it. It works better than a foam roller and is only about $6.00. Spending some time on it will help to loosen the scar tissue and sinew that has been keeping you together.
Stretch Bands
Stretch bands are great, not just for looking like you know what you’re doing in the gym or showing how dynamic your lifts are, but also for stretching and warming up. Keeping one of these handy can take care of warming up everything from shoulders, with some face pull, to your hamstrings and lower back with Good Mornings. You can also use it to launch things at your fellow competitors.
Chalk Chalk is great for stones and WOB. It keeps the neck dry and provides more grip for stones. Stones are usually the first event, and chalk is handy since the ground may still be wet with dew.
Towels
Bring towels. No one wants to share a sweat rag with you. It also avoids spreading staph infections. Bring an old towel from home or liberate some from
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your hotel. They’re great for drying and cleaning implements that are wet and muddy. Be sure to wash it, or, be a gentleman and return it to the hotel.
Belt
Belts are great to have in your gear arsenal. I use only my heavy lifting 13mm leather Lever Belt for WOB. However, a 10mm belt is also a good choice and may be more comfortable for most lifters. Spending a little extra on high-quality lifting belt is a good investment. An average sporting goods store most likely will not carry the belt you need. Look at any number of different Powerlifting websites and you can choose your own based on thickness, buckle type, and color. A neoprene belt is good for warming the lower back. It doesn’t provide enough support, but will help with soreness. It can be the difference between backing out of an event because of back pain and finishing strong with added support.
Programming Throws training is broken down into a couple of different options. You can throw
anywhere between 1 to 4 days a week. Different times of the year require
different volumes. I suggest running your throwing in accordance to how I lay it
out based on which Training Lab training block you are in.
1 Day / Week
Open Stone Weight Hammer
Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5 Standing w/ Reverse x 5 Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5
Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
When throwing one day a week, focus on Open Stone, Weights, and Hammer,
which are the most technical events. Working these 3 basic throws will help you
to train for 6 events. Alternate heavy and light for Weight and Hammer. For
example, throw HWFD and light Hammer one week, and throw the opposite the
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following week. You will throw Stone every week, and the stands and full throws
take care of training Braemar and Open.
2 Days / Week Day 1:
Open Stone HWFD Weight 16# Hammer Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5
Standing w/ Reverse x 5 Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5 Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
Day 2:
Open Stone LWFD Weight 22# Hammer Stand Non Reverse x 5 (B) 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5
Standing w/Reverse x 5(B) Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5 Full Throw x 5 (OS) Full Throw x 10
The major difference for Open Stone, Day 2, is that a heavy stone (Braemar) is
used for your stands. Otherwise, there is no difference between these throws.
One day is speed and the other is power. At this point, building on these two
main throws will be more beneficial than spending too much time on height
events that require longer setup and effort to train properly than is required by
these throws.
3 Days / Week Day 1: Open Stone HWFD Weight 16# Hammer
Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5
Standing w/ Reverse x 5 Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5 Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
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Day 2: Open Stone LWFD Weight 22# Hammer
Stand Non Reverse x 5 (B) 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5 Standing w/Reverse x 5(B) Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5
Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
Day 3: Sheaf WOB Caber( if you have
available) 15-20 x Throws 15 – 20 Throws Pick and Carry x 5 Full Throw x 10
Height event training begins on the third day. For the WOB and Sheaf, find a tree
limb, fence, high wire, or anything with an adjustable height over which to throw.
Find something easy enough to clear. For example, the line over which I throw
my WOB is set at the same opening height for Sheaf. My goal is to clear 75% of
the throws. In a game, I want to be able to hit an opening, and possibly 2 or 3
more heights, at most. Avoid fatigue. If you work your way up from the bottom
every game, you’ll be exhausted by time you reach the high throws. It is always
better to clear a PR by one inch than an opening by 3 feet.
Caber training is tough, any way you go about it. If you’re lucky enough to have a
caber, that’s great. If not, build one according to the instructions I detailed
earlier. However, you’ll also need a second person to avoid having an exhausting
and frustrating training session. If you do, in fact, have a caber and another
person to help, start with pick and carry drills. Pick and carry drills are exactly
what they sound like. Pick up the caber and walk with it while maintaining
balance. The longer you can do it, the better.
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4 days / week: Day 4 on weeks with no games
Day 1:
Open Stone HWFD Weight 16# Hammer Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5
Standing w/ Reverse x 5 Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5 Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
Day 2: Open Stone LWFD Weight 22# Hammer
Stand Non Reverse x 5 (B) 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5 Standing w/Reverse x 5(B) Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5
Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
Day 3:
Sheaf WOB Caber( if you have available)
Bottom Drills x5 15 – 20 Throws Pick and Carry x 5 Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10
Day 4:
Day 4 is for preparation of upcoming games. If you have a game that week, you
can take Day 4 off from Throws Training, depending how you feel. If you don’t
have a game, do mock games for Day 4. Throw nearly every event, but no more
than 5 throws per event. Do a 2-throw warm-up and 3 throws at full speed. This
forces you to focus and throw as if you need to hit your big throws within a
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couple tosses, giving a good indication of what you can pull off in a game. Take
this day seriously and work on hitting a good throw when you need it.
This program will help you gain on all throws and will help to determine how well
your training progresses throughout the year, with regards to throwing volume.
Like most, I am more proficient in some throws than others. I devote more time
to throws that need improvement while maintaining those at which I am more
proficient. For example, I am a better Stone than Hammer thrower. It doesn’t
make sense to spend as much time on Stone when I could devote that time to
improving Hammer. Winning Open Stone by 5 feet is cool, but not when losing
Hammer by 15 feet. I would rather be good at both.
Competition Preparation
How many days should you back off before competition? What should I do the
week of a contest? Should I throw? Should I lift? There are many questions
concerning competition preparation, and many of which all athletes ask
themselves. Compared to Powerlifting or Strongman, which require longer
recovery time, throwing requires more unique preparation.
Contest week I do my Rx’d training Monday through Thursday. Friday is rest and
travel day. Saturday is competition day. Sunday is recovery day. There is no
need to back off for a full week for throwing - one day before and after
competition day is plenty. Taking too much time off can stall performance
throughout the course of the season. Games season is a long season. It’s
possible to throw 3 – 5 weekends in a row. By taking a full week to rest, and not
training, you can miss months of strength gains.
Once out of the first block of High Volume, you will lift 3 days a week and Throws
Train 2 – 3 days a week. The Games Week schedule is set up differently than
other training weeks. Lifting at this point requires no more than 45 minutes. The
following is my typical in-season week schedule:
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Monday: Lift
Tuesday: Throw (Stone, Weight, Hammer)*
Wednesday: Lift / Throw (Height Events)
Thursday: Lift / Throw (Throw for a total of only 5 throws per event)*
Friday: Travel / Warm-up / Rest
Saturday: Compete
Sunday: Travel / Warm-up / Recovery Work *This is broken down further in Throws Training section. This is an ideal schedule, but adjustments will need to be made according to time
constraints and travel requirements. When time constraints interfere, prioritize
training so that when the season begins, throwing is equally as important as
strength training. Do a proper warm-up, a major lift, and concentrate on
throwing. A little soreness while throwing can be beneficial to draw attention to
your position during a throw. When my legs are sore, I know that I am using them
as I should be. If time forces you to cut a day, do so at the end of the week and
start the next week at Day 1.
One of the things that I do while training the throws is I typically start with pretty
light effort and mark the throw with an object. I use a marking flag from a
hardware store. Every throw I just try and add enough to get past the last throw.
This continues till I have to be all out to make an improvement. Basically the idea
is to build slowly so you can work on the things you need to and keep adding just
a bit.
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OUTRO Again let me reiterate I love throwing. I love talking about throwing and being
around those who also love it. Just like training it is not just something I enjoy but
it is part of me. Getting to travel and compete all over the world is always
something I have wanted to do. I am getting a shot at it with the Highland Games
where I could not have with Track and Field. I have made some great friendships
through the games, and look forward to those that will be made in the future.
Enjoy the work that comes along with throwing. Nothing comes easy it is going to
be the accumulation of inches and half inches that eventually turn into feet.
Learn to compete when it is on the line. This is something that will carry with you
in life more than anything. The confidence in yourself to know that you will
perform when it counts is priceless. Learn to work through and around injuries
while still maintaining the course. The beauty of throwing is you can do it for a
long time.
Take these steps and work on applying and mastering one at a time. Build on the
progress slowly. Keep chasing your goals and never back away from them. See
you all on the field.
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Acknowledgements
This past year has been an exciting one for me. Not just as an athlete but in life. I
want to thank my amazing wife Ashley for always supporting me in my pursuits. I
can’t imagine my life without you. I know I constantly tell you how awesome you
are but here it is again. I am so excited that we are building our house and can’t
wait to build more memories in it with you. Thank you sincerely from bottom of
my heart.
Andy you have been as always my best friend. I am fortunate that you and I have
similar taste in hobbies and both love talking about training ideas and philosophy.
Getting to travel and compete with you has been something I will always
treasure. Stoked to continue sharing the field with you all season and the ones to
come. You always help me push myself o be better on the field and in the gym.
Mom and Pop, thank you for always being supportive of my decisions, and
backing me through it all. You guys are what pointed me toward athletics at an
early age and I am forever grateful. I am glad that I spent my childhood out on a
field somewhere running and jumping and playing than sitting in front of the TV.
Jim thanks for the guidance. If there is anyone who has pushed me to write two
books now it has been you. I could never have imagined the learning experience
that comes with forcing yourself to put it down on paper and stand by it. Thanks
for having the convictions you do in life and training. These simple principals will
always be part of my basic philosophy.
Steve from the 1st time I made my way into Iron Sport till now you have always
been a good friend. Since then you have always had an interest in my throws and
give me the ins and outs of what to expect as a guy coming up the ranks in
Highland Games.
Bert you have forever made Columbia SC. one of my favorite places to travel. You
guys are doing everything right. You take care of your employees as family and it
shows. There is a passion that is behind your products that other companies can
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try to replicate but never will. Thanks you for always being an ear to chat with as
well as one of my brothers in training.
Everyone at Red Stick Crossfit, you have only been part of my regime for a shot
amount of time, But it has added another level of desire to train that I needed to
find again. It has been years since I have enjoyed training regularly anywhere but
my garage. Just being around a positive group who work as hard as you all do is
motivating every day. Keep it up I love watching the place grow into something
Baton Rouge has desperately needed.
My sponsors have all been awesome and have helped me out tremendously in
chasing a passion that is lifting and throwing. I am getting to exploit a loop hole
that allows moderately talented guys like me see the planet and compete at a
high level. If you can support them please do they take care of our sport.
USPLabs, Conquest Nutrition, Juggernaut Strength, Clevenger Sheafs, Mike
Landrich implements, Sport Kilt, and Red Stick Crossfit.Thank you to everyone in
the world that has let me train with them, sleep on their floor, eat their food, and
pick their brain about training. You all have helped make me who I am.
FIN
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Also check out my other Ebook at www.mattvincent.net .
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