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GRAY COVERAGEMastey Certification Program
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1 to 1 mixing ratioAlways make sure color and developer match up
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Processing TimesDyes are all oxidative and need to process fully for best results
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WHY DOES HAIR TURN GRAY?Decreased Melanin Production from the body.
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STAGES OF GRAY3 steps of diminished melanin production
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HOW DOES HAIR GROW3 stages of natural hair growth
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INDIVIDUAL HAIR CYCLESEach hair strand has it’s own lifespan.
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HOW FAST DOES GRAY GROWThe same as regular hair.
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TEXTURE AND POROSITY CHANGESCourse, Compact Cuticle, Wiry, Dry
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FACTORS FOR HEALTHY HAIR GROWTHSummer Weather, Healthy Diet, Certain Fruits & Vitamins
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NOTICEABILITY OF GRAY HAIRDifferent Hair Levels Show Gray Differently
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COLOR FORMULATIONIt’s Like Cooking!
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Cookie Recipe
Egg + Flour + Water + Sugar + Salt + Vanilla
Maybe Raisins, or Oatmeal, or Chocolate Chips
What if I added more sugar or more salt? How does that change it?
What if I add pecans?
Your own recipe is what makes you special, and your own formulas is what sets you apart.
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OUR INGREDIENTSThe Color Wheel
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NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red + Yellow = Brown
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NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red = Violet & Violet + Yellow = Brown
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NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Yellow = Green & Green + Red = Brown
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NEUTRAL = BROWNRed + Yellow = Orange & Orange + Blue = Brown
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NEUTRAL = BROWNOrange + Purple + Green = Brown
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Mastey Tonal Values.0 - Naturals
.00 - Double Naturals
.1 - Ash
.2 - Platinum
.3 - Gold
.4 - Copper
.5 - Mahogany
.6 - Red
.07 - Deep Blue
.9 Tobacco
.0 - Pale Violet
.00 - Violet/Gold
.1 - Blue
.2 - Violet
.3 - Yellow
.4 - Orange
.5 - Red / Brown
.6 - Red
.07 - Deep Blue
.9 - Purple/Orange/Green
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Tones BreakdownCool Tones
.0
.00
.1
.2
Warm Tones
.3
.4
.5
.6
Special Tones
.07
.9
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GRAY COVERAGESimple Solution = Use Double Natural Shades
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Double Natural Formula
Example Formula
5.00 + 20 Volume
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Double Natural Formula
5.00 Color Breakdown
5.00 = 5.0 + 4.0 + 5.3
No Stain Dyes
No PPDs
No PTDs
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5.0 & 4.0 has a VIOLET base
With more depth due to level mixture
5.3 has a GOLD base
.00 = 2 Violet + 1 Yellow
Violet = Red + Blue
Red + Blue + Yellow = Brown
Brown = 100% Gray Coverage
Tonal Bases of .00
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ADDING TONAL VALUEDouble Natural + Secondary Tone
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5.00 + 5.34 Chocolate Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
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.00 + Secondary Tone
Deeper Coverage
3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)
1.5 oz (5.00) + .5 oz (5.34)
More Tonal Value
1/2 (.00) + 1/2 (Tone)
1 oz (5.00) + 1 oz (5.34)
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5.00 + 5.1 Cool Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
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5.00 + 5.3 Golden Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
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.00 + Amplifier
Deeper Coverage
7/8 (.00) + 1/8 (Tone)
1.825 oz (5.00) +.125 oz (37)
More Tonal Value
3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)
1.75 oz (5.00) + .25 oz (37)
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5.00 + 37 Amplifier Green Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
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Matching Matte Colors
Used when trying to match new growth to ends that have a lot of demi-color build up.
Strand test
5.00 + 4.0
3/4 (5.00) + 1/4 (4.0)
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Gray Color Wash Highlights
Select 1 to 2 levels lighter than existing hair color
Formulate with 10 volume
Process for 25-30 minutes
Creates Color Wash that fades over time and blends with new gray growth.
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Gray Color Wash Highlights
Existing Level 7
Target for Highlights Level 9
9.23 + 10 Volume
Process for 25-30 minutes
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Demi Gray Formula
1oz Teinture
2 oz Instantane
1 oz 20 Volume
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Demi Gray Formula
1oz - 9.23 Teinture
2 oz - 9.23 Instantane
1 oz - 20 Volume
30 Minute Processing
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Red HeadsTips:
Darker Root Base Formula
For more red vibrancy add red to your above formula
Pay attention to the type of gray hair
Never mix a red with a neutral you may get purple
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Pay Attention To% of gray
underlying pigment
whether you are lifting or depositing
are you going to use heat to process
what peroxide volume: 20 or 30?
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Avoiding Hot Roots
Root Formula Darker
Target Level 5
Mids & Ends Lighter
Target Level 6
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Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the Translucent Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of GOLD to help with gray coverage
1.5 oz RED + .5 oz GOLD
1.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3)
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Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the Gray Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of (.3) & % of (.00) to help withgray coverage
1.5 oz (5.6) + .25 oz (5.3) + .25 oz (5.00)
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Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the White Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or (.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of (.3) & high % of (.00) to help withgray coverage
.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3) + 1 oz (5.00)
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Client over 50% gray white hair
New growth Formula:
2 oz. - (5.00)
1 oz. - (6.46)
1 oz. - (6.4)
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Client over 50% gray white hair
Teinture Formula:5.00 (2oz) + 6.46 (1 oz) + 6.4 (1 oz)
Formula Breakdown:(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (1oz) 6.46 + (1oz) 6.4
(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (2/3oz) 6.4 + (1/3oz) 6.6 + (1oz) 6.4
1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 2/3 COPPER + 1/3 RED + 1 RED
1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/3 GOLD + 1/3 RED + 1/3 RED + 1 RED
3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6 GOLD + 3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6GOLD + 2/6 GOLD + 2/6 RED + 2/6 RED + 6/6 RED
6/6 BLUE + 16/6 RED + 14/6 GOLD
1 BLUE + 2 1/3 GOLD + 2 2/3 RED
1 BROWN + 1 1/3 GOLD + 1 2/3 RED
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Salt & Pepper
1oz - Teinture
1 oz - 10 Volume
15-20 Minutes Processing
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Salt & Pepper
1 oz - 5.1 Teinture
1 oz - 10 Volume
15-20 Minutes Processing
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PEROXIDE CHOICEDependent on your client
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TROUBLE SPOTSTemples and Hair line
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Trouble ShootingPROBLEM 1: Severe build up from facial / skin products
Lotions, Moisturizers, Cremes
Medicinal / Acne / Corrective Cremes
Facial Toners
Foundations & Other Make up
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Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 1: Remove build up before color process
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply to temple and hairline area
Lather & Let Sit for a few minutes
Rinse
Re-apply UMF to entire head, Lather, & Rinse
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Trouble ShootingPROBLEM 2: Texture or State Change
More Compact Cuticle
Thicker / Courser Hair Shaft at Base
Finer and more compact cuticle
Dryer Less Moisturized Hair
Oily hair
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Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 1: Application Change
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Double Application Technique
Apply Hair Color Mixture to hair line and temples first
Apply Color Mixture in paper thin sections through our 4 quadrants
Re-apply color to hair line and temple area
Ensure there is proper saturation throughout hair
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Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 2: Pre-Softening the Cuticle
Use Me First Pre Treatment
Use Developer to Pre-Soften Stubborn Gray
Apply 20 Volume Mastey Developer to stubborn grays
Let sit for 5 minutes
Wipe off
Apply Color Mixture, making sure to apply first to stubborn areas
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Trouble ShootingSolution 3: Pre-Pigmenting the Cuticle with Color
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply Lower Level Color Mixture to stubborn area
Let sit while you apply desired formula through out hair
Re-Apply Desired formula over Stubborn Areas
Make sure to blend colors on the reapplication
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Proper MoistureSolution 4: Pre-Moisturize Gray before color
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply Moisturee Moisturizing Treatment
Leave in for 5 minutes then Rinse
Proper moisture balance allows gray hair to accept other ingredients
Moisture will trap in color and amino acids for longer lasting better coverage
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PH OF HAIR = 5
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Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 4: Raise pH of hair higher to open up compact cuticle.
Alter color formula to raise developer by 5 or 10 volumes
Alter color selection by lowering tint level by 1 level
Original Formula
5. 0 + 20 Volume
New Formula
4. 0 + 25 or 30 Volume
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Double Pigment FormulaSOLUTION 5: Increase Amount of Pigments in Color Formula
Dilute Stronger Volume Peroxides with Color Instantane to create a pre-pigmented developer that you mix with permanent color.
This Doubles the amount of color pigments in your formula
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2oz of 20 Volume Developer
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Making 20 Volume Developer
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Making 20 Volume Pre-Pigmented Developer
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200% Color Formula
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COLOR MAGNETSAcidic Dyes attach to Oxidative dyes like magnets
Teinture = Oxidative Dye Instantane = Acidic Dye
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200% COLOR PIGMENTSMore pigment in the hair makes for longer lasting richer color
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Final TipsExtra things you can do to help with gray coverage
Process under heat
Extend timing of color process
Make sure to properly saturate the hair / Use enough product
Scoring technique when applying color
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QUESTIONS100% Gray Coverage
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Repairing Treatment System
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Proper PreparationA Clean Canvas
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Color Safe Hair PurifierRemove Build up without stripping color or causing dryness or damage
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Extremely Damaged Hair Repair over processed and damaged hair with SuperPac and Moisturee