Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Trent Holden, Kate Morgan, Kevin Raub
Crete
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Welcome to Crete . . . . . . . 4
Crete Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Crete’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . . . .8
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16
First Time Crete . . . . . . . .18
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Accommodation . . . . . . . 22
Getting Around . . . . . . . . 24
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Month by Month . . . . . . . 28
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Outdoor Activities . . . . . 38
Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . 56
Regions at a Glance . . . . 59
HANIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Hania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
East of Hania . . . . . . . . . . .81
Akrotiri Peninsula . . . . . . . . 81Aptera & Around . . . . . . . . . 83Almyrida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Vamos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Georgioupoli . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Vryses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Southwest Coast & Sfakia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Askyfou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Frangokastello . . . . . . . . . . 87Hora Sfakion . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Loutro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Agia Roumeli . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Sougia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Paleohora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Elafonisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Gavdos Island . . . . . . . . . . 100Lefka Ori & Samaria Gorge . . . . . .103
Hania to Omalos . . . . . . . . 103Omalos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Theriso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Samaria Gorge . . . . . . . . . 105Northwest Coast . . . . . . 105
Rodopou Peninsula . . . . . 108Kissamos (Kastelli) . . . . . 109Gramvousa Peninsula . . . .111Falasarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Innahorion Villages . . . . . 114
RETHYMNO . . . . . . . .118Rethymno . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
West of Rethymno . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Argyroupoli . . . . . . . . . . . 134The Hinterland & Mt Psiloritis . . . . . . . . .136
Mili Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Chromonastiri . . . . . . . . . . 136Moni Arkadiou . . . . . . . . . . 137Margarites . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Perama to Anogia . . . . . . . 141Anogia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Mt Psiloritis . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Coast to Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
Armeni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Spili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Southern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
Plakias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Myrthios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Preveli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Beaches Between Plakias & Agia Galini . . . . 152Agia Galini . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Northeastern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155
Panormo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Bali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
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Contents
IRAKLIO . . . . . . . . . . 162Iraklio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Around Iraklio . . . . . . . . . 178
Knossos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178West of Iraklio . . . . . . . . .183
Agia Pelagia . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Fodele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Central Iraklio . . . . . . . . .183
Arhanes & Around . . . . . . 184Iraklio Wine Country . . . . 185Myrtia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Zaros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Southern Iraklio . . . . . . .192
Gortyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Phaestos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Agia Triada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Matala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Lendas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Northeastern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Gournes & Around . . . . . . 207Hersonisos . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Malia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209
LASITHI . . . . . . . . . . 216Northern Coast . . . . . . . . 217
Agios Nikolaos . . . . . . . . . 217Elounda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Spinalonga Peninsula . . . 232Plaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Kritsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Lasithi Plateau . . . . . . . 236
Tzermiado . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Agios Georgios . . . . . . . . . 237Psyhro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Northeastern Coast . . . 238
Istro & Around . . . . . . . . . 238Gournia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Mohlos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Sitia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Moni Toplou . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Eastern Coast . . . . . . . . 244
Vaï . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Itanos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Palekastro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Zakros & Kato Zakros . . . 246Southern Coast . . . . . . . 249
Ierapetra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249East of Ierapetra . . . . . . . . 253Myrtos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
The Cretan Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Minoan Art & Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281
Nature & Wildlife . . . . . 287
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 290
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 302
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .319
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURESLazy Beach Days . . . . . 160
Palace of Knossos 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 180
Lazy Days Wining & Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Witnesses to History . . 215
SURVIVAL GUIDE
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Bookended by two of Crete’s great cities, this route is a roller-coaster ride through the natural wonders of mountain and sea and the best of the island’s historical treasures. You’ll also get to soak up Venetian architecture, and feast on both mountain-village and seafront cuisine.
Start in Iraklio, checking out the superb museums before heading to the Palace of Knossos where the mysterious Minoans ruled about 4000 years ago. Spend a day
enjoying the fruits of the Iraklio Wine Country Country, where 70% of Crete’s wine is produced, and which is dotted with wineries.. Next, stake out a base near Matala to combine trips to Gortyna, the former capital of Roman Crete, as well as the Minoan palaces of Phaestos and Agia Triada. The outstanding Cretan cultural museum at Vori and swimming at wide, sandy Kommos and Matala beaches round out the area’s offerings.
Travelling west, lunch in the quaint vil-lage of Spili, home to several excellent tav-ernas creating tradtional Cretan cuisine.
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Then drive to Moni Preveli, a working monastery on a hill with sweeping views of the Libyan Sea, and picture-postcard Preveli Beach, before steering north to Rethymno for a wander around its lovely maze of Venetian lanes. From here, venture into the countryside, folding the pottery village of Margarites, Moni Arkadiou or the mountain village of Argyroupoli into your route.
Zip west to Hania, a lively modern city wrapped around a romantic Venetian har-bour and atmosphere-laden pedestrianised quarters, and also your next base. When you’ve had your fill of this historic beauty,
take the early bus to Samaria Gorge and trek one of Europe’s most famous canyons to the beachfront terminus at the small hamlet of Agia Roumeli. Stay over or catch a boat to Loutro to overnight in this quaint village accessible only on foot or by boat. Next morning, take the boat to Hora Sfakion where you can have a seafood lunch and the local cheese-stuffed-crêpe speciality, and then loop back to Hania.
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This trip presents you with the mother lode of soul-stirring attractions, including the unspoiled southern coast, higgledy-piggledy mountain villages and some of Crete’s best beaches, as well as spirit-lifting culture and gastro treats in Crete’s two most attractive towns, Rethymno and Hania.
Kick off your trip in Iraklio, taking in the Her-aklion Archaeological Museum and imposing fortress, and swing out to the Palace of Knos-sos, before steering west to quaint Anogia, where ancient traditions and Cretan music thrive at the foot of Mt Psiloritis. Continue west via the pottery village of Margarites to Moni Arkadiou, the site of one of the bloodiest mo-ments in Crete’s struggle for independence from the Turks. Spend the next day in Rethymno, taking your sweet time ambling around its be-witching mix of Turkish and Venetian buildings.
From Rethymno push on to the southern coast, where the lively beach town of Plakias makes an ideal base for exploring nearby se-cluded beaches, including Preveli Beach, stun-ningly located at the mouth of a rugged gorge.
Heading west, stop at the seaside fortress of Frangokastello before zipping over to Hora Sfakion, where you can hop on a boat to ex-plore the remote villages along this beautiful stretch of coast. Continue north towards the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and make time for a hike through spectacular Imbros Gorge. Con-tinue to the northern coast and linger a night or two in Hania, with its beautiful harbour, grand fortress and ambience-packed old town.
From here you can easily zip over to the far western reaches of Crete. Take the circular route southwest via Kolymbari and the Inna-horion villages to the westernmost tip of the island at Elafonisi, which beckons with pink-shimmering sandy beaches. Pushing back north via the coastal road, continue the beach theme at broad Falasarna with its rolling waves, or detour to the Gramvousa Peninsula. You’ll most likely access the peninsula’s spectacular lagoon-like beach at Balos by day-boat from Kissamos.
Returning to Iraklio via Hania, consider making a quick detour to the springs of Argy-roupoli, before taking the coastal road east of Rethymno via peaceful Panormo and busy Bali.
10 DAYS Central to West Crete
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Iraklio is a big, busy city, but it can be a useful base for visiting many of Crete’s most famous sights. Since the bus network is decent in this province, it can even be done without your own vehicle. Alternatively, if you do have wheels and your budget allows, stay in more scenic Arhanes in the nearby Iraklio Wine Country, to make these looping day trips.
Crete’s largest city, Iraklio offers top-notch museums, a Venetian fortress, a colourful street market, lively nightlife and excellent dining. While here, make sure you visit the expertly curated Heraklion Archaeological Museum so that you’ll be prepared for Crete’s grandest Mi-noan relic, the Palace of Knossos. Drive or hop on a bus for the quick ride to this mesmerising, and partially reconstructed, introduction to Minoan society.
On another day, apply what you’ve learned in Knossos on a visit to the Palace of Malia, another Minoan site, and some people’s fa-vourite, with sweeping sea views. You can then explore small mountain villages by zigzagging through tiny Krasí to Kerá, which is home to the revered Kerá Kardiotissas Monastery, with its 14th-century frescoes and holy icon. Nearby Sfendile was controversially inundated by the creation of a dam.
If you have your own wheels, designate a driv-er and spend a day sampling the local vintages of the Iraklio Wine Country, home to many wineries and tasting rooms. Plan to stop at the Nikos Kazantzakis Museum in Myrtia and the moody Minoan vestiges in Arhanes, which also has great traditional tavernas – perfect for a lunch break. Or sample the tipple around Dafnes, the other main hub of wine country.
Take a scenic drive to the rustic mountain village of Zaros, at the foot of Mt Psiloritis. Leave time to hike nearby trails, explore Byz-antine churches and dine on fresh trout. If you’re thirsty for a beach day instead of a hike, continue a bit further along to beautiful sands at Kommos or Matala. And if you have time to sleep over, the next day you can explore quaint villages such as Sivas, Minoan ruins at Phaes-tos, and Roman ones at Gortyna, before loop-ing north again.
1 WEEK Around Iraklio
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There’s a world of discoveries awaiting in eastern Crete, from the cosmopolitan town of Agios Nikolaos to some of the island’s most beautiful churches, moodily historic sights and pristine beaches. Arm yourself with some curiosity and a good map, and the week will fly by with no two days spent the same way.
Make your first base at charismatic Agios Nikolaos, where bustling cafes line the water-front, the harbour and a dark and mysterious lake. Steer north to ritzy Elounda and the ferry ride to Spinalonga Island, a former leper colo-ny turned sightseeing magnet thanks to Victoria Hislop’s novel, The Island, and ensuing TV series.
Another delightful day-trip option from Agios Nikolaos takes you west to the Lasithi Plateau, high on the upper decks of the Dikti mountains, where wind power once drove the sails of thousands of windmills. The main at-traction here is Dikteon Cave, where none other than Zeus himself was born.
South of Agios Nikolaos, Kritsa is one of Crete’s most bewitching mountain villages, with a cool gorge, the island’s oldest church frescoes and the ruins of the ancient city-state of Lato among its attractions. More ruins are in Gour-nia, reached by heading east along the coast, perhaps preceded by a swim at Voulisma Beach and followed by a fish lunch in Mohlos.
Sitia is a handy base in these eastern reaches for trips to Moni Toplou, a brooding fortified monastery, and the palm-lined beach at Vaï. More beaches await near Palekastro, including Kouremenos Beach, Crete’s windsurfing mecca.
The mountains get bigger and more rugged as you head south to Zakros, the launch pad for the trek through Zakros Gorge down to the beach community of Kato Zakros with its Minoan palace ruins. For splendid solitude, brave the serpentine roads leading south to ultra-remote Xerokambos, with its gorgeous sandy beaches.
From here steer west, perhaps stopping in bustling Ierapetra or, better yet, in pretty near-by Myrtos where you can soak up bohemian beach living. The route north back to Agios Nikolaos is wonderful, taking you past bare mountains crowned with cockcombs of rock rising from woods.
1 WEEK Eastern Crete
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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edi-tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Charilaos Akasiadis, Jack Bairner, Simon Berwick, Jan Bretschneider, Natasha Cole, Nicolas Combremont, Martin Dolheguy, Mark Healey, Chris Hudson, David Hyams, Kevin Johnson, Imke Lerner, Michael Linnard, Veronica Lopes van Balen, Andrew Payne, Thomas Pellier, Michael Po-esen, Dan Rigby, Rob Ryder, Robert Schindler, Katja Schmahl, Sandra Steinhause, Ian Webber, Selena Whitehead, John Wickkiser, Rolf Wrelf, Cathy Wright
WRITER THANKSAndrea Schulte-PeeversHeartfelt thank yous to Kerstin Göllrich for her patience, curiosity, stamina and awesome driving skills; Johannes Bolz for literally going the extra mile for me in the Kritsa Gorge; Konstantinos and Natalie Zivas for wonderful insider tips on Elounda and the north coast, and father Vaggelis for his kitchen wizardry; Alaska Klaus for his insights into hiking the E4; Margarita Kurowska and Jutta Berger for keeping things under control on the home front; and David for being with me in spirit.
Trent HoldenFirst up, a huge thanks to the destination editor, Brana Vladisavljevic, not only for commissioning me on this title, but for all her work at Lonely Planet over the past 15 years. You will be missed! Also sending out my gratitude to the Cretan people who make this island so special with their humbling hospitality, good humour and willingness to help out at all times. Finally lots of love to my fiancé Kate Morgan, and to my family and friends.
Kate MorganHuge thanks to amazing destination editor Brana Vla-disavljevic for commissioning me to work on Crete, Lonely Planet won’t be the same without you. Thank you to Despina in Hania for all of your assistance, to the staff at the Hania tourist information office for your help and to all of the amazing Cretans I met along the way – your generosity and hospitality is unforgettable. And, as always, thank you to my fiancé Trent for being the best travel companion and driving me all over Hania.
Kevin RaubThanks to Brana Vladisavljevic and all my fellow part-ners in crime at Lonely Planet. Thanks also to those I met on the road: Kjetil Jikiun, Giorges Kteniadakis, Andria Mitsakis, Iossif Serafimidis, Dr Emmanuel Prokopkis and the nurses at Pagni, Lydia and Nikos, and the brews of Kykao and Solo.
Behind the Scenes
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Illustrated Highlight p180-1 by Javier Martinez ZarracinaCover photograph: Agios Nikolaos, Vladimir Sklyarov/Getty Images©
THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Crete guidebook was curated by Andrea Schulte-Peevers and researched and written by Andrea, Trent Holden, Kate Morgan and Kevin Raub. The previous two editions were written by Alexis Averbuck, Kate Armstrong, Korina Miller, Richard Waters, Andrea Schulte-Peevers,
Chris Deliso and Des Han-nigan. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Brana VladisavljevicSenior Product Editor Elizabeth JonesRegional Senior Cartographer Anthony PhelanProduct Editor Ross TaylorBook Designer Ania BartoszekCartographer David Connolly
Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Janice Bird, Samantha Cook, Melanie Dankel, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, Rosie Nicholson, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, Christopher Pitts, Tamara ShewardCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jessica Rose, Georgia Tsarouhas
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Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccessible travel 290accommodation 18, 20,
21, 22-3language 302
activities 38-46, see also diving, hiking, rock climbing, sailing, snorkelling, windsurfing
Afrata 108Afrata Beach 108Agia Fotia Beach 253Agia Galini 153-5Agia Irini Gorge 93-4Agia Marina Donkey
Sanctuary 199Agia Pelagia 183Agia Roumeli 92Agia Triada 195-6, 196Agiofarango Gorge 205, 204Agioi Apostoli 72Agios Georgios 237-8Agios Ioannis 101Agios Pavlos 152-3Agios Nikolaos 10, 217-27,
220, 10accommodation 221-4activities 221beaches 217-21drinking 225-6emergencies 227events 221 festivals 221food 224-5medical services 227nightlife 225-6shopping 226sights 217tourist information 227tours 221travel to/from 227travel within 227
Agios Pavlos 152-3Agreco Farm 135agrimi 288Ahmet Aga Minaret 69air travel 296-7Akrotiri Peninsula 81-3Almyrida 84Almyros Beach 217-21alphabet 303Amari Valley 138-9, 138Ambelos 102Ammos Beach 221Ammoudi Beach 221amusement parks 207Amygdalokefali 114Anatoli 223Ancient Eleutherna 140Ancient Falasarna 113Ancient Itanos 244-5Ancient Kydonia 72Ancient Lappa 135Ancient Lato 236animals 287, see also birdsAnogia 142-4Anopoli 90Anydri 101Anydri Gorge 101Apodoulou 139Aposelemis Dam 209Aptera 83-4Aradena Gorge 93archaeological sites 26-7,
see also historic build-ings, Minoan sites
Ancient Eleutherna 140Ancient Falasarna 113Ancient Itanos 244-5Ancient Lato 236Ancient Lappa 135Aptera 83-4Basilica of Aghia
Sophia 156Diktynna 108Gortyna 193-4, 215, 193,
214-15Lissos 93
Monastery of St Peter & St Paul 167
Necropolis (Argyroupoli) 134
Olous 232Polyrrinia 110Sanctuary of
Asklepios 206Zakros Palace 246-7, 247
area codes 295Argyroupoli 134-6Arhanes 184-5Armeni 145art galleries, see
galleriesarts 281-6, see also
individual artsAskyfou 87ATMs 293Axos 141-2Azogires 98
BBali 157-9Balos 111-12, 32-3bargaining 19bathrooms 295Battle of Crete 29, 266-7beaches 26
Afrata Beach 108Agia Fotia Beach 253Agioi Apostoli 72Agios Ioannis 101Agios Pavlos 152-3Akrotiri Peninsula 82Almyros Beach 217-21Ammos Beach 221Ammoudi Beach 221Bali 158Damnoni Beach 149Diskos 206Elafonisi 12, 99-100,
12, 160Falasarna 113, 27Gargadoros Beach 221Gialiskari Beach 101
Halikia Beach 96Hania 72Hiona Beach 245Hrysi Akti Beach 72Itanos Beaches 245Kalamaki 72Karavostasi 158Karoumes Beach 247Kedrodasos Beach 100Kolokytha 232Kommos Beach 198Kouremenos Beach 245Koutsounari Beach 253Kytroplatia Beach 221Lavrakas 102Ligres 152Limani 158Livadi 158Loutra 206Makrygialos 253Marathi Beach 82Marmara Beach 93Nea Hora Beach 72Orthi Ammos Beach 87Pahia Ammos 95Panormo Beach 156Plaka Town Beach 232Potamos 102Preveli Beach 11, 151,
2, 161Pyrgos 102Red Beach 196Seitan Limania 82Sitia City Beach 240Souda 149Stavros Cove 82Sweetwater Beach 89Triopetra 152-3Vaï 14, 244, 14, 160-1Varkotopo 158Voulisma Beach 238Vrissi Beach 89
beer 20, 53Bembo Fountain 169bicycle travel, see cycling,
mountain biking
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
312
IND
EX B- F
birds 287-8Bizari Basilica 139boat cruises, see also tours
Agia Galini 154Agios Nikolaos 221Balos 112Chrissi Island 252Elounda 227-8Hania 73Plaka 232-3Plakias 148
boat travel 14, 40-1, 297-8, 299, 298
booksbirdwatching 287cooking 50culture 270history 263, 270Minoan civilisation 276websites 274
breweriesCretan Brewery 102Lafkas Brewery 79Solo Brewery 175
budget 17bungee jumping 89bus travel 25, 297, 299, 301bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 293-4
Ccanoeing 91canyoning 44-5car travel 24-5, 297, 299-
300, see also road tripshire 24-5
castles, see fortressescathedrals, see churches &
cathedralscaves
Agia Sofia Cave 114Dikteon Cave 12, 238Ideon Cave 144Kronios Cave 237Matala Caves 196-7Melidoni Cave 141Milatos Cave 234Pelekita Cave 247Sfendoni Cave 141Skotino Cave 211
cell phones 294-5
cemeteriesAllied War Cemetery 82Grave of Nikos
Kazantzakis 169Late Minoan Cemetery
of Armeni 145children, travel with 56-8
Hania 72Iraklio 172websites 58
Chrissi Island 252churches & cathedrals 69
Agia Panagia 139, 116Agia Triada Church 217Agios Ionnis 134Agios Markos
Basilica 169Agios Minas
Cathedral 168Agios Spyridon
Church 119-21Chapel of the Metamor-
fosis Sotiros 103Church of Agios
Georgios 101Church of Agios
Ioannis 93Church of Agios
Nikolaos 69-72Church of Agios
Pavlos 93Church of Agios
Titos 169Church of Agios
Yiorgos 156Church of Our Lady 196Church of Panagia
Barotsiani 135Church of Panagia Kera
234-5, 36-7Church of St
Paraskevi 135Church of the
Panagia 103Church of the
Panayia 183Greek Orthodox
Cathedral 69City Walls (Iraklio) 169climate 16, 28, 29, 16coffee 21, 53-4consulates 292cooking
books 50courses 48
credit cards 293Cretan Brewery 102Cronus 280
culture 270-5books 270Minoan civilisation
276-80currency 16customs regulations 290cycling 25, 43-4, 298, see
also mountain bikingAlmyrida 84Georgioupoli 85Hania 73
Cyclops 129
DDaedalus 277Damnoni Beach 149dance 283-4, 282dangers, see danceDikteon Cave 12, 238Diktynna 108disabilities, travellers
with 290Diskos 206diving 39, 40, see also
snorkellingAgia Galini 153-4Agios Nikolaos 221Almyrida 84Bali 158Elounda 228Hania 73Hora Sfakion 89Ierapetra 250Myrtos 254Panormo 156Plakias 147Rethymno 121-2
drinks 26, 52-3, see also beer, raki, wine
language 303driving 306, see car
travel, motorcycle travel, road trips
EE4 walking trail 43, 99,
144, 42Easter 28economy 270-1El Greco 285Elafonisi 12, 99-100, 12,
160electricity 291Elos 114Elounda 227-32embassies 292emergencies 17
language 305
Episkopi 141etiquette 19, 55Etz Hayyim Synagogue 69Evans, Arthur 182events 28-9exchange rates 17
FFalasarna 113-14, 27family life 271ferry travel 21, 297-8,
299, 298festivals 28-9films 21Firkas Fortress 65fishing 154Fodele 183food 19, 26, 47-55, 212,
14, 49books 50cooking courses 48Cretan diet 50Cretan dishes 50-2etiquette & customs 55gardhoumia 48glossary 304kalitsounia 48kataïfi 128kokoretsi 48koulouria 48language 303-4olive oil 48sweets 52tavernas 14
fortressesCity Walls (Iraklio) 169Firkas Fortress 65Fortezzza (Rethymno)
119, 131Frangokastello 87-8, 215Kales Fortress 249Kazarma Fortress 242Koules Fortress 163-7Venetian Fort
(Paleohora) 96Venetian Fortifications
(Hania) 65fountains
Bembo Fountain 169Morosini Fountain 168Rimondi Fountain 121Venetian Fountain
(Spili) 146Fourfouras 139Fournes 103Fourni 184Frangokastello 87-8, 215frescoes 279
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
313IN
DEX G
- KGgalleries, see also
museumsMunicipal Art Gallery
(Hania) 69Municipal Art Gallery
(Iraklio) 168Museum of
Contemporary Art (Rethymno) 121
gardens, see parks & gardens
Gargadoros Beach 221Gavalohori 83Gavdos Island 100-3gay travellers 293Georgioupoli 85-6Gerakari 139Gialiskari Beach 101golf 45gorges 94
Agia Irini Gorge 93-4Agiofarango Gorge
205, 204Anydri Gorge 101Aradena Gorge 93Imbros Gorge 107, 106Klados Gorge 94Kotsifou Gorge 150Kritsa Gorge 235Mili Gorge 136Rouvas Gorge 204-5,
204Samaria Gorge 105,
106-7, 106Topolia Gorge 114Trypiti Gorge 94Zakros Gorge 246, 248
Gortyna 193-4, 215, 193, 214-15
Gournes 207Gournia 239, 230-1Gramvousa Peninsula
111-13Greek language 302-8Greek Mountaineering
Association 72
HHa Gorge 223Halikia Beach 96Hania 13, 64-81, 66-7,
13, 117accommodation 73-6activities 72-3beaches 72children, travel with 72drinking 77-9
emergencies 80entertainment 79events 73 festivals 73food 76-7medical services 80nightlife 77-9shopping 79-80sights 64-72tourist information 80tours 73travel to/from 80-1travel within 81websites 80
Hania region 59, 62-115, 63accommodation 62children, travel with 57food 62highlights 63itineraries 64, 70-1, 70
health 291Heraklion Archaeological
Museum 11, 163, 170-1, 171, 11, 200, 278
Hersonisos 207-9hiking 41-3
Agia Irini Gorge 93-4Agiofarango Gorge 205,
204Aradena Gorge 93E4 walking trail 43, 42Hania 72-3, 106-7, 106Imbros Gorge 107, 106Iraklio 169, 204-5, 204Kissamos (Kastelli) 109Klados Gorge 94Kritsa Gorge 235Mili Gorge 136Mt Gingilos 41Mt Psiloritis 144Paleohora 96Paleohora-Sougia
Coastal Walk 99Pelekita Cave 247Plakias 147Rethymno 122Rouvas Gorge
204-5, 204Samaria Gorge
106-7, 106 Spinalonga
Peninsula 232Topolia Gorge 114Trypiti Gorge 94Zakros Gorge 248
Hiona Beach 245Hislop, Victoria 233
historic buildings, see also archaeological sites, Minoan sites
Grand Arsenal 68-9Loggia 121Turkish Sebil 168Venetian Building
(Sitia) 242Venetian Loggia
(Iraklio) 169history 215, 256-69
Arab rule 261-3Battle of Crete 266-7books 263, 270Christianity 261Dorian rule 259-60EU membership 268Greek Civil War 267-8Greek War of
Independence 264-5Minoan civilisation 256-8Mycenaean civilisation
258-9Ottoman rule 264-5Roman rule 260Venetian rule 262, 263-4WWII 266-7
hitching 300-1holidays 294Hora Sfakion 89-91horse riding 45-6
Georgioupoli 85Hersonisos 207-8Pitsidia 199Plakias 147
hospitality 272-4Hrysi Akti Beach 72
IIcarus 277Icarus & Daedalus
Statues 153Ierapetra 249-53,
250, 36-7Imbros Gorge 107,
106, 32-3immigration 296Independence Day 28Innahorion Villages 114-15insurance 292internet access 292internet resources 17Iraklio 163-78, 166-7
accommodation 170-3activities 169beaches 169children, travel with 172drinking 174-5emergencies 176
entertainment 175food 173-4medical services 176nightlife 174-5shopping 175-6sights 163-9tourist information 176tours 170travel to/from 176-7travel within 177-8
Iraklio 60, 162-211, 164-5accommodation 162children, travel with 57food 162highlights 164-5itineraries 188-9, 188websites 169
Iraklio Wine Country 11, 185-90, 11, 200-1
Island, The 233Istro 238Itanos Beaches 245itineraries 30-7, 30, 32,
35, 36Hania region 64, 70-1, 70Iraklio region 188-9, 188Lasithi region 217, 222-3,
222Rethymno region 122-3,
138, 138
Jjewellery 277-8
Kkafeneio 275, 273Kalamafka 222Kalamaki 72Kalathas 81Kales Fortress 249Kambos 115Kamilari 202-3kandylakia 274, 273Kapetaniana 202Karave 101Karavostasi 158Karoumes Beach 247Kastri 101kataïfi 52, 212 212Katharo Plateau 237Kato Zakros 246-9Kavousi 268, 269kayaking 40
Almyrida 84Bali 158
Kazantzakis, Nikos 169, 190-1, 285-6
314
IND
EX K- M
Kazarma Fortress 242Kedrodasos Beach 100Kefali 114-15Kissamos (Kastelli) 109-11Knossos 9, 178-83, 179,
180-1, 2, 8-9, 180-1, 200, 258
Kolokytha 232Kolymbari 108komboloï 271Kommos 198-9Kotsifou Gorge 150Koules Fortress 163-7Kouremenos Beach 245Kournas 86Kourtaliotiko
Gorge 151, 130Koutsomatados 114Koutsounari Beach 253Koutsouras 253kri-kri 288Kritsa 234-6, 27Kritsotopoula 235Kroustas 237Kytroplatia Beach 221
LLake Kournas 86, 116-17Lake Votomos 191Lakki 103language 16, 19, 302-8Lasithi Plateau 12, 236-8,
12, 230Lasithi region 60, 216-54,
218-19accommodation 216children, travel with 57food 216highlights 218-19itineraries 217, 222-3,
222Lavrakas 102Laws of Gortyna 260,
214-15Lefka Ori 103-5legal matters 292Lendas 206-7LGBT+ travellers 293lighthouses
Gavdos Island 102Hania 69Lighthouse
(Rethymno) 121Ligres 152
Limani 158Linear A 280Linear B 279Lissos 93literature 285-6Livadi 158Loutra 206Loutro 91-2, 15, 30-1lyra 142, 281, 282
MMakrygialos 253Malia 209-11maps 293Marathi Beach 82Margarites 137-41, 131markets
Agora (Hania) 79Iraklio Central
Market 176Markopoulos, Yiannis 283Marmara Beach 93Maroulas 132Matala 196-8, 201measures 294Melidoni 141Meronas 139Meskla 103mezedhes 51Milatos 234Mili Gorge 136Milia Eco-Village 115military service 271Minoan civilisation
art 276-80books 276bull imagery 278culture 276-80history 256-8language 279, 280
Minoan sites, see also ar-chaeological sites, historic buildings
Agia Triada 195-6, 196Ancient Kydonia 72Anemospilia 184-5Fourni 184Gournia 239Kommos 198Late Minoan Cemetery
of Armeni 145Palace of Knossos 9,
178-83, 179, 180-1, 8-9, 180-1, 200, 258
Palace of Malia 209-10, 215, 210, 34-5
Petras Archaeological Site 240-2
Phaestos 194-5, 195Vathypetro 184Zakros Palace 246-7,
247Minos 277Minotaur 280mobile phones 294-5Mohlos 239-40, 212,
212-13monasteries
Kerá Kardiotissas Monastery 209
Monastery (Spili) 146Moni Agias Triadas 81Moni Agios Nikolaos 191Moni Arkadiou 15, 137,
15, 214Moni Gonias 108Moni Gouvernetou 82Moni Hrysoskalitissas
Monastery 100Moni Ioannou Erimiti 82Moni Odigitrias 199Moni Preveli 11, 151, 11Moni Toplou 215,
244, 214Moni Vrondisi 191
Monastiraki 139money 16, 17, 19, 290, 293Moni Arkadiou 15, 137,
15, 214Moni Preveli 11, 151, 11Moni Toplou 215,
244, 214Morosini Fountain 168mosques
Kara Musa Pasha Mosque 121
Mosque (Ierapetra) 249Mosque of Kioutsouk
Hasan 65Neratzes Mosque 121Sultan Bin Ibrahim
Mosque 119, 131motorcycle travel 297,
299-300mountain biking 43-4, see
also cyclingHani 72 Iraklio 170Malia 210Palekastro 245
mountaineering 44, 45Mt Gingilos 41Mt Psiloritis 144-5Mt Yiouhtas Peak
Sanctuary 184multiculturalism 274
museums 27, see also galleries
Archaeological Museum of Arhanes 184
Archaeological Museum of Kissamos 109
Archaeological Museum of Rethymno 119
Askyfou War Museum 87Byzantine & Post-
Byzantine Collection 65
Chromonastiri 136Cretan Folk Museum 237Cretan House Folklore
Museum 69El Greco museum 183Eleftherios Venizelos
Residence & Museum 72
Folk Museum 217Folk Museum of
Palekastro 245Folk Museum of Spili 146Folklore Museum
(Gavalohori) 83Folklore Museum of
Zaros 191Folklore Museum
(Sitia) 242Greek National Football
Museum 69Hania Archaeological
Museum 65Heraklion Archaeological
Museum 11, 163, 170-1, 171, 11, 200, 278
Historical & Folk Art Museum 121
Historical Museum & Archives 69
Historical Museum of Crete 167
Lychnostatis Open Air Museum 207
Maritime Museum of Crete 65
Military Museum of Chromonastiri 136-7
Museum of Ancient Eleutherna 20, 140
Museum of Christian Art 168
Museum of Cretan Ethnology 198
Museum of Grylios 143Museum of National
Resistance 104Museum of the Acritans
of Europe 96Museum of Wooden
Sculptures 141-2Myrtos Museum 253-4
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
315IN
DEX M
-V Natural History
Museum 168-9Nikos Kazantzakis
Museum 190-1Paleontological
Museum 121Permanent Collection of
Ancient & Traditional Shipbuilding 69
Sitia Archaeological Museum 240
Zakros Natural History Museum 247
music 21, 281-3instruments 142, 281
Myrthios 150-1Myrtia 190-1Myrtos 253-4myths 277, 280
NNea Hora Beach 72newspapers 294
Oolive oil 48
factories 88, 141Olous 232Omalos 103-4one-eyed monster 129opening hours 293-4Orthi Ammos Beach 87Orthodox Easter 28ouzo 54
PPahia Ammos 95painting 284-5palaces
Agia Triada 195-6, 196Gournia 239Palace of Knossos 9, 178-
83, 179, 180-1, 8-9, 180-1, 200, 258
Palace of Malia 209-10, 215, 210, 34-5
Phaestos 194-5, 195Zakros Palace 246-7,
247Palekastro 245-6Paleohora 95-9, 96, 116-17Panormo 155-7Pappadiana 114parks & gardens
Botanical Park 103Garden Arkoudenas 136Maravel Garden 145Municipal Park
(Rethymno) 121
passports 296Perivolia 114-15Phaestos 194-5, 195, 34-5phonecards 295photography 294Pitsidia 199Plaka 232-4Plakias 147-50planning, see also
individual regionsaccommodation 22-3activities 38-46budget 292budgeting 17calendar of events 28-9children, travel with 56-8Crete basics 16-17first-time visitors 18-19internet resources 17itineraries 30-7repeat visitors 20-1travel seasons 16, 28, 29
plants 288Polyrrinia 110Porta Guora 121postal services 294Potamos 102pottery 276-7Preveli 151-2Preveli Beach 11, 151,
2, 130Psyhro 238public holidays 294Pyrgos 223
Rrailways
Georgioupoli 85Panormo 156
raki 54Red Beach 196religion 274-5Rethymno 9, 119-34,
124-5, 9accommodation 123-6drinking 128-9emergencies 133entertainment 129-32events 123 festivals 123food 127-8internet access 133medical services 133nightlife 128-9 shopping 132-3sights 119-21tourist information 134
tours 122travel to/from 134travel within 134
Rethymno region 60, 118-59, 120
accommodation 118children, travel with 57food 118highlights 120itineraries 122, 138-9,
138websites 123
Rhodanthe 235Rimondi Fountain 121road trips
Amari Valley 138-9, 138Iraklio Wine Country
188-9, 188Lasithi region 222-3,
222southwestern Hania
70-1, 70rock climbing 45, 122Rodopou Peninsula 108-9Rouvas Gorge 204-5, 204
Ssafety 17, 39, 300-1sailing 40-1, 73, 221, 227Samaria Gorge 13, 105,
106-7, 106, 13Sarakinas Gorge 223Sarakiniko 101sculpture 277-8sea kayaking 40Seitan Limania 82, 5Sfakia 86-103Sfinari 114shopping 305
language 305Sitia 240-4, 241Sivas 199-202skiing 121Skinakas Observatory 144smoking 294snorkelling 39
Almyrida 84Bali 158Hania 73Panormo 156Plakias 147
Souda 149Sougia 92-5Spili 145-7Spinalonga Island 10, 233,
10, 231Spinalonga Peninsula 232
stand-up paddling (SUP) 40
Almyrida 84Bali 158Hania 73
Stavros 81Sweetwater Beach 89
Ttaxis 301tea 53-4telephone services 16,
294-5Thaloni Retreat 202, 23Theriso 104-5Theseus 280Thrapsano 191Thronos 139time 295tipping 19, 295toilets 295Topolia Gorge 114tourism 272-4tourist information 295tours, see also boat cruises
Agios Nikolaos 221Bali 158Balos 112Hania 73Iraklio 170Iraklio Wine Country 187Kissamos (Kastelli) 109Knossos 182Panormo 156Plakias 148Rethymno 122
train travel 297transport 24-5travel to/from Crete 296-8travel within Crete 24-5,
298-301Triopetra 152-3Tripiti 102Trypiti Gorge 94Tzermiado 237
Vvacations 294Vaï 14, 244, 14, 160-1Vamos 84-5Varkotopo 158Vasiliki 223Vathypetro 184Vatsiana 102Venetian Fort
(Paleohora) 96Venetian Fortifications
(Hania) 65
316
IND
EX V-Z
Venetian Fountain (Spili) 146
Venetian Harbour (Hania) 65
Venetian Harbour (Rethymno) 119, 131
vineyardsBoutari Winery 187Diamantakis Winery 186Digenakis Winery 186Domaine Gavalas 187Douloufakis Winery 186Idaia Winery 186Klados Winery 156Lyrarakis 186Manousakis Winery 78Minos-Miliarakis
Winery 187
Rhous Winery 187Silva Wines 186Stilianou Winery 186
visas 16, 295Vizari 139volunteering 295Voulgaro 114Voulisma Beach 238Vrissi Beach 89Vryses 86
Wwater parks, see also
amusement parksAcqua Plus 208Limnoupolis 72Watercity 207
weather 16, 28, 29websites
books 274children 58Iraklio 169Rethymno 123
weights 294windsurfing 40
Almyrida 84 Palekastro 245Paleohora 96
wine 21, 52-3wine country, see Iraklio
Wine Countrywineries, see vineyardswomen in Crete 275women travellers 295
XXerokambos 249, 230-1Xylouris, Giorgos 142Xylouris, Nikos 142,
143, 283
Yyoga 46, 89, 245
ZZakros 246-9Zakros Palace 246-7, 247Zaros 191-3Zeus 280Zoniana 141
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
319
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – February 2020ISBN 978 1 78657 579 1© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 202010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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OUR WRITERSAndrea Schulte-PeeversLasithi Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, An-drea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. Andrea’s desti-nation expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the
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Trent HoldenRethymno An Australian-based writer, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent is in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside, he also writes books on idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa
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Kate MorganHania Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on des-tinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Russia, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka, but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at
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Kevin RaubIraklio An Atlanta native, Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has contributed to more than 95 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly
high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.
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