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Introduction
Simmel
◦ Fashion and the city
Fashion emerged
Link between music and fashion
Link between ideas from Simmel and
fashion/music
Focus: Madonna and Lady Gaga amongst others
Learning outcome 2:Develop in-depth textual
analysis skills.
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Simmel
1858-1918 Berlin
The Metropolis and Mental Life
◦ Distinctive fashion
◦ Identities in the metropolis
2
Individual/
Society
Individual/Society
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Fashion and Fashion brands
Recognisable global names
Dior, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Prada, Calvin Klein,
Dolce & Gabanna, Versace, Paul Smith
Wilson (2003): before capitalism – in medieval
period dress was not fashion
3
(Europe)
12th -14th Centuries 15th and 16th Centuries 17th /18th Centuries
Began to have
symbolic
meanings
•Clothes discarded when out
of date
•Social stratification
identifiable through clothing
•Increasing turnover
of fashion
•Public displays of
fashion
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Industrial revolution
Manufacture of synthetic materials
Modes of transport
Mass circulation of newspapers
London, Paris, New York, Milan
◦ Hubs of fashion consumption
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The City
Faster pace
Impersonal
Creating individual
style to stand out from
the crowd
Fashion used to make
an impact on others
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Mask
Craik (1994)
◦ Fashion used as a mask
◦ Disguises true nature of body or person
◦ Suggests specific appearance to wider society
or themselves
Relates perhaps to Goffman (see list of
references at the end)
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Postmodernism
Postmodernism
◦ Body of thought concerned with breaking apart modernity
◦ Foucault, Guattari, Derrida
◦ Lyotard (1924-1998) key postmodern theorist
Kellner – identity fixed, solid, stable
Modernity – more mobile, multiple, personal, self-reflexive, subject to change and innovation
But still set roles and norms
Postmodern perspective – pace and complexity increased and identity more fragile and unstable
Passé but still influential
Fashion as means to construct self
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Pop Fashion
Malcom McLaren
◦ Fashion is the visual expression of culture...
Fashion is used as a means of sexual display,
status symbol and tribal code...
Music and fashion intertwined
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50s and 60s
Beatles links with professional tailors such
as Lansky Bros Menswear,
Epstein noted the importance of ‘the look’
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Fashion and Bowie
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Sex Pistols
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Duran Duran
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Adam Ant
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Motley Crue
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Madonna
Specific looks associated with specific albums
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Madonna
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Kylie
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Kylie on Vogue
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Kylie
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Kylie
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Rock Kylie?
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2014 Album: Kiss me Once - Glam Kylie?
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Christmas Kylie
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Lady Gaga
Self determined knowing use of fashion
Miller (2011:151) ‘Lady Gaga has become one of the most significant figures in global pop.... In the way she connects fashion and music in all performances and representations’
Berger (2011)
◦ Example of postmodern subject, how she employs fashion and props to re-invent herself
Self conscious construction
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Lady Gaga
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Lady Gaga
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Plastic Bubble Dress
Lady GagaThe Meat Dress
Lady Gaga
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2014 Lady Gaga
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Lady Gaga on Vogue (2011)
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Lady Gaga 2016 at Victoria’s
Secret Show
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Construction
Paglia (2010) – Gaga as a manufactured
personality
Fashion construct – to stand out from the
pop music crowd
Fashion and image intrinsic part of pop
culture
YouTube emphasises this
Continual adoption of striking fashions
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Marilyn Manson
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Gerard Way
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Rihanna on Vogue 2016
Hints at
Dior
Collection
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Nicki Minaj
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Nicki Minaj
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Taylor Swift on Vogue (2012)
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Imitation and Uniformity
Fashion can extends careers
Team up with designers
Rihanna and River Island
Lilly Allen Clothing Range
Jay Z fashion range
Beyonce
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Summary
Simmel
◦ Fashion and the city
Fashion – definitions and emerging fashions
Link between music and fashion
Link between ideas from Simmel and fashion/music
Focus: Content analysis in relation to fashion images of a musician (and what this suggests).
Content analysis of number of music artists on the cover of Vogue.
Number of musicians with fashion ranges comparing male/female
Number of fashion ads in magazine: urban/rural comparisons.
Last year: Content Analysis on fashion advertisements within magazines
Learning outcome 2:Develop in-depth textual analysis skills.
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Bibliography Berger, A.A. (2011) The Branded Self: ON the Semiotics of Identity.
The American Sociologist. Vol. 42(2), pp. 232-37.
Craik, J. (1994) The Face of Fashion. London and New York, Routledge.
Goffman, E. (1990) The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. London, Penguin (Reprint).
Kellner, D. (2003) Media Spectacle.
Miller, J. (2011) Fashion and Music. Oxford, Berg.
Paglia, C. (2010) Lady Gaga and the death of Sex. Sunday Times Magazine, 12 September [Online] Available at: http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/public/magazine/article389697.ece [Accessed 4th November 2013].
Wilson, E. (2003) Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. New Jersey, Rutgers University Press.
Simmel, G. (1971) On Individuality and Social Form. Chicago, University of Chicago Press.
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