bast fibers
bast fibers come from the stem of the plant, near the outer edge
harvested:•by hand where labor is cheap•by pulling up entire plant (10% longer than cut)
•by cutting as close to the ground as possible
after harvesting:•seeds removed using a rippling machine•retting decomposes pectin holding fibers together•woody portion is removed by scutching•short and irregular fibers removed by hackling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCJQCWDIozk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwfIhPAcrcU&NR=1
flax
one of the oldest documented textile fibers—Egyptian tombs more than 3000 years old
prestige fiber due to limited production & relatively high cost—linen
most flax is produced in Western Europe:•Belgium•France•Italy•Ireland
• United Kingdom• Germany• The Netherlands• Switzerland
flax—structure
individual fiber cells—ultimates—are spindle-shaped with pointed ends and a central lumen
primary fiber averages 5.0-21.5 inches in length & 12-16 micrometers in diameter
can be identified microscopically by crosswise markings—nodes or joints
cross-section is many-sided or polygonal with round edges
flax—structure
fibers are slightly grayish when dew retted; more yellow when water retted
stronger than cotton due to highly oriented molecular structure
similar to cotton in chemicalComposition—71% cellulose
short flax fibers are called tow
long, combed, better-quality fibers are called line
flax—aesthetics
flax has a high natural luster that is softened by its irregular fiber bundles—luster can be increased by flattening
stiffer in drape and harsher in hand than cotton—finishes can produce softer, more drapeable fabrics
flax—durability
strong for a natural fiber—higher breaking tenacity when wet
•very low elongation •elasticity is poor•stiff fiber
repeatedly folding a linen in the same place will cause fabric to break
nodes contribute to flexibility but are the weakest part of the fiber
flax—comfort & care
•high moisture regain of 12%—absorbent •good conductor of heat
better for hot or cool weather?•resistant to alkalis, organic solvents, & high temps•can be dry-cleaned, machine-washed & bleached with chlorine bleach
for upholstery & wall coverings, careful steam cleaning is recommended to avoid shrinkage
•low resiliency—often require pressing•more sunlight resistant than cotton•store dry otherwise will mildew
flax—environmental concerns/sustainability
less of an environmental impact than cotton
requires fewer chemicals & seldom irrigated
pulling plants at harvest contributes to soil erosion
depending upon retting practiced, disposal of chemicals & contaminated water are of concern—dew & enzyme retting are more sustainable than water retting
hand labor needs to be monitored to avoid exploitation of workers
flax—identification
burns readily in manner similar to cotton
fiber length is easy way to differentiate between cotton & flax—cotton seldom longer than 2.5 inches; flax almost always longer than that
soluble in strong acids
http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_1/u_1_5.html
flax—uses
used in bed, table, and bath items for residential & commercial use as well as apparel & technical products
ideal for wall coverings up to 120 inches wide due to irregular texture which:•adds visual interest•hides nail holes•wall damage•muffles noise
used in upholstery & window treatments due to:•durability•interesting & soil-hiding textures•versatility
flax—uses
linen apparel includes items for:•warm-weather use•high fashion•casual•professional wear
technical products include: •luggage•bags•purses•sewing thread
ramie
also known as rhea, grasscloth, China grass, Army/Navy cloth—used for several thousand years in China
ramie plant is a tall perennial shrub—requires hot, humid climate—cut, not pulled
fast-growing & can be harvestedas frequently as every 60 days
separated from stalk by decortication—bark & woody stalk separated from fiber— became more commercially important once mechanized
ramie
•relatively inexpensive•can be cottonized and blends well with other fibers
produced in China, Brazil, the Phillipines, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, & India
must be degummed by boiling in weak alkaline solution to remove wax & pectin and separate fiber bundles
ramie—properties
white, long, fine fiber with a silklike luster
similar to flax in absorbency, density & microscopic appearance
because of high molecular crystallinity and orientation, ramie is stiff and brittle
like flax, will break if folded repeatedly in same place—lacks resiliency, low in elasticity & elongation potential
ramie—properties
one of the strongest natural fibers know—strength increases when wet
resistant to insects, rotting, mildew & shrinkage
absorbency is good, does not dye as well as cotton—can be mercerized to enhance dye absorbency
does not retain color well unless it is dry-cleaned
ramie—uses
used in many imported apparel items—sweaters, shirts, blouses & suits
important in interiors for window treatments, pillows & table linens
often blended with other natural fibers
used in ropes, twines, nets, banknotes, cigarette paper, and geotextiles for ground-cover fabrics (erosion control)
hemp
resembles flax in macroscopic & microscopic appearance—some varieties very difficult to distinguish from flax
hemp is coarser & stiffer than flax—processing & cottonizing minimizes these differences
hemp fibers can be very long—3-15 feet
processed similar to flax with similar environmental issues—depending on processing, fiber may be creamy white, brown, gray, almost black, or green
78% cellulose & can be machine washed and dried
hemp
plant produces 3 types of fibers:•bast fibers from outer region—longest & finest; most often used in 100% hemp and blend fabrics with linen, cotton or silk for apparel & interiors•inner two fibers are shorter & most often used in nonwovens & other technical applications•innermost woody core fibers are used for mulch and pet & animal bedding
resistant to ultraviolet light, mold & rotting
high strength makes it particularly suitable for twine, cordage & thread
fell out of popularity in 40s due to drug regulations—new varieties grown for fiber have less than 1% THC
hemp
used for some apparel & interiors—found in hats, shirts, shoes, backpacks, t-shirts & jeans
environmentally friendly—•does not require pesticides; grows so quickly that it smothers weeds•root systems minimize soil erosion•20-30% of plant is fiber—produces 250% more than cotton; 600% more than flax on same land•being grown on land to extract pollutants—zinc, mercury
most imported from China & Philippines; also grown in Italy, France, Chile, Russia, Poland, India & Canada
jute
61% cellulose—one of cheapest & weakest natural fibers—primary fibers in bundle are short & brittle
grown throughout Asia, chiefly India & Bangladesh
creamy white to brown in color—white, soft, lustrous & pliable when first removed from stalk; quickly turns brown, weak & brittle
used to produce sugar & coffee bagging, carpet backing, rope, cordage, & twine—facing strong competition from olefin
deteriorates quickly when exposed to water; low sunlight resistance; poor colorfastness
kenaf
soft bast fiber from kenaf plant
fiber is long, light yellow to gray and harder & more lustrous than jute
like jute, used for twine, cordage & other technical purposes
produced in Central Asia, India, Africa, & some Central American countries
being investigated by researchers as paper fiber source & in blends with cotton
hibiscus
from same general botanical family as cotton—grows as a tall shrub in tropical & subtropical regions
commercially grown & used for clarifying sugar cane juice—waste material studied for fiber potential
retting is required to extract fiber from plant stem
can be bleached; has good fastness when dyed with direct dyes
stronger than jute—has potential for use in bags, rugs & some apparel items when used in blends
nettle
two types—Himalayan giant nettle plant or stinging nettle
hollow fiber look and feels similar to raw flax—has good insulating characteristics
perennial that grows without use of fertilizers or pesticides—studied as potentially sustainable fiber
used for technical products like bags & ropes as well as apparel & interior textiles
48% cellulose—similar in shape to ramie but stronger; coarser than jute
bamboo
two types—one removed from above-ground stems; other regenerated from bamboo pulp (ch. 7)
naturally resistant to microbes; absorbent; coarse hand
not usually found in apparel or interiors
type of grass—grows quickly without use of chemicals
most harvested regularly from managed farms—does not threaten wild bamboo forests or natural habitats
leaf fibers
obtained from leaf of a plant—fiber is split or pulled from leaf during processing
most are long and stiff and have limited dye affinity
pina
from leaves of pineapple plant—fiber is soft, lustrous & white or ivory
highly susceptible to acids & enzymes—hand washing is recommended
fiber produces lightweight, sheer, stiff fabrics—often embroidered
used for formal & wedding wear in Philippines, also to make mats, bags, table linens & other apparel
current research aimed at making a pina fiber that blends well and is commercially competitive
abaca
comes from member of banana tree family
fibers are coarse, very long—up to 15 feet, strong, durable & flexible
off-white to brown in color
used for ropes, cordage, floor mats, table linens, some wicker furniture and apparel
produced in Central America and the Philippines
sisal & henequen
closely related plants grown in Africa, Central America, and the West Indies
fibers are smooth, straight and yellow
used for better grades of rope, twine and brush bristles—degraded by salt water
Sisal is used for upholstery, wall coverings, carpet & custom rugs—provides interesting textures for many interior styles
used in blends with wool & acrylic for a softer hand
dry extraction cleaning is recommended—tends to shed & fade; absorbs waterborne stains
other cellulosic materials
used in accent rugs due to resistance to heat & soil:•rush—stems of marsh plant•sea grass—from China & Vietnam•maize—cornhusks
rush & palm fiber seat are used on chairs
wooden slats & grasses used in window coverings
grasses are used in wallcoverings
wicker furniture is made from tightly twisted paper yarns, rattan, sea grass, abaca, and raffia
bacteria cellulose is used in medicine as a covering for sever burns & other skin injuries