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Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 1
DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON
FABRICS AND GARMENTSR.B.Chavan
Dept. of Textile Technology,Indian Institute of Technology,Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 2
PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE WOMB TO TOMB NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,
PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL
MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY
ECO LABLES GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO
PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST
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COTTON DOMINATES READILY AVAILABLE AFFORDABLE PRICE HYDROPHILIC COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 4
CONVENTIONAL COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES
AND VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
WATER POLLUTION
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ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)
RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION
COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY
INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON
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NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON
CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR
COLOURS NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE LOW STAPLE LENGTH INFERIOR STRENGTH POOR SPINABILITY REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON
CULTIVATION NO CHEMICAL PROCESSING REQUIRED ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING
CHEMICAL PROCESSING
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ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO
MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE
PRODUCT
VALUE ADDITION
IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES
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IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE
FREE FINISHING SOFTENING ENZYME/BIO FINISHING WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES UV PROTECTION EMERGING FINISHES
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EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING
CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS
AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE
TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY LOSS IN STRENGTH
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PROCESS ROUTE
FABRIC FINISHING PRE CURE POST CURE
GARMENT FINSIHING DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES
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CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENTLOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEUEXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER
CATALYST MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID
WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION IMPART HAND IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE
AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE IMPART SOFT HAND IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY
SILICONE ELASTOMER IMPART SPRINGINESS IMPROVE STRENGTH
ACRYLATES IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
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TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE
CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l
MgCl2 10-25 g/l
CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l
SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l
WETTING AGENT 1 g/l
pH 4-4.5
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QUALITY CONTROL
PHYSICAL TESTS DRY AND WET CRA
SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING
%RESIN ADD-ON
TENSILE STRENGTH
ABRASION RESISTANCE
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
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CHEMICAL TEST
Cuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE
HYDROXIDE)
PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED
GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)
· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE
· PUT 1- 2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION
PUT COVER SLIDE
· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE
· RATING 3- 4 IS ACEPTABLE
· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS
RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
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SWELLING RATING MEANING
NONE 5 FULLYCROSS LINKED
SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED
MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED
MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS HEAVY LINKED
HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED
RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES
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ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED
(DMeDHEU) EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING DRYING AND CURING, GARMENT STORAGE AND USE WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH ENVIRONMENT KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND
DERMATITIS EFFECTS ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
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POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs) WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE
OF BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF
COTTON
CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE
GOOD CRA
GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION
DURABLE TO WASHING
EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED
COMMERCIALIZATION
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OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS
CITRIC ACID
MALEIC ACID
SUCCINIC ACID
ORDER OF DURABILITY -
BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
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DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY
MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE
EXPENSIVE
REDUCING AGENT
AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER
INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE
RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE
SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
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SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH HIGH COST
NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST
YELLOWING
THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION
SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED
IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL
DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS
RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE
COMBINATION OF HOMO POLYMER OF PMA AND TER
POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL
ALCOHOL
FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
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SOFTENERS
SILICONE SOFTENERS
CLASSIFICATION
NON REACTIVE
REACTIVE
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL
PRESENTLY MOST POPULAR ORGANO
FUNCTIONAL SILICONE
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ECO FRIENDLINESS OF SILICONE SOFTENERS
SILICONE SOFTENERS ARE ECOLOGYCALLY INERT
NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC BACTERIA
DO NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT
NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL
DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND
ANIMAL LIFE NO SIGNIFICANT BOD NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
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WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000 SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR SPORTS WEAR SKI WEAR TRACK SUITS RAIN WEAR MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
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CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS
HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER
LAMINATED FABRICS LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE BARRIER
FILM LIKE PTFE SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX TWO AND
THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE INCH WITH
A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON
COATED FABRICS PU COATING MOST POPULAR
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BIO FINISHING APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR
FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND
GARMENTS
CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S
PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE
WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM
PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
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CELLULASE ENZYME TYPES
1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)
2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)
3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)
TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC
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ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH
CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS
PATHOGENIC BACTERIA ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA FUNGI GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON
THE DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS
B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION
NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT
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SURGICAL APPARELS
A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE
BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD
THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE
GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES
ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL
APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE PROTECTION
OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE
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UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY
CLOTHING
ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE
USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED
DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION
SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC
FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE
PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED
THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
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FINISHING TECHNIQUESPAD-DRY-CURE
APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG
WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS
VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS
CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID
POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE)
PHMB
METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
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EMERGING TECHNOLOGIESNEXTEC PROCESS
· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA
· NOVEL PROCESS
· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER
· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT
AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE
· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART
· WRINKLE RESISTANCE,
· SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,
· UV PROTECTION
· FLAME RESISTANCE
· MICROBIAL BARRIER
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NEXTEC PROCESSTHIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION
PROCESS ACHIEVED USINGSILICONE BASED POLYMERS POLYURETHANE POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS
THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY
OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING
MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO
COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS
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UV PROTECTIONINCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON
EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF
OZONE LAYER
· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED
BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR
GARMENTS WITH SELECTED
UV ABSORBERS
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USE OF GENETIC ENGINEERING
BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC
MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE
MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES
WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO
PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS
THROUGH FINSHING
Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 35
CONCLUSIONSDESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON GIVE VALUE ADDITION
MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING
EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCED FOR
IMARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.