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DIAGNOSTIC STUDYBalochi Chappal Cluster Quetta Pakistan
Conducted By
Mr. Tahir Malik RC AHAN Balochistan
Supervised By
Mr. Suhail Aamir Project Director AHAN
April 2008
Developed under UNIDO Cluster Development Programme Pakistan
Partner AgencyAIK HUNAR AIK NAGAR
(OVOP)
PAKISTAN
Focal Point UNIDO:
Mr. Anjum Fayyaz NPC UNIDO
Mr. Sarwar O.H. Hobohm Team Leader CDP UNIDO Vienna
All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form
or by means, with out prior written permission from UNIDO or AHAN
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S.
No.contents Page
No.
1 Description of cluster 1
2 Introduction 1
3 History of Balochi Chappal 1
4 Geographical Location 2
5 Composition 2
6 Types 2
7 Tools 3
8 Raw Material 4
9 Types of leather 4
10 Manufacturing process 5
11 Explanation of Process 6
12 Current output 6
13 Market 7
14 Finance 7
15 Problems Identif ied 8
16 Working conditions 8
17 SWOT analysis 9
18 Strategies 10
19 Vision 11
20 Mission 11
21 Expected results 12
22 Action plan for proposed Association for 2 years 13
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Disclaimer
The purpose & scope of the study is to provide cluster level information to the
readers. All the material presented is based on primary/secondary data,discussions/interviews with a number of individuals concerned, directly or
indirectly, to the cluster, and certain assumptions are also incorporated for the
purpose. The information compiled in the document may vary considerably due
to any unforeseen circumstances. Therefore, the authors make no warranty,
expressed or implied; concerning the accuracy of the information presented,
and will not be liable for injury claims pertaining to the use of this publication
or the information contained therein.
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1. Description of cluster
Small and medium enterprises of Balochi chappal play a very vital role in the
economy of Balochistan as they provide employment to about 500 people of
Balochistan at Prince Road Quetta only. There are many other small enterprises of
Balochi Chappal in other districts of Balochistan. Nearly in every district of
Balochistan, Balochi Chappal is made in a smaller quantity as compare to Quetta.There are many Balochi Chappal producers in different areas, killis of Quetta, e.g. On
Jan Mohammad Road, Pashtoon Abad, Sariab Mill, Meezan Chok and Prine Road.
Price road is the only area where there are 87 small and medium enterprises of
Balochi Chappal. Average employment of each enterprise is 4.
2. Introduction
Balochi Chappal is known as the cultural footwear of Baloch nation. It is made in a
large quantity in Balochistan, especially in Quetta. There are more than 100
enterprises in Quetta, which make their products in their shops, where they display
and sell them. Average employment of each shop is 4. All the producers are Balochs
and Pashtoons, belonging to different districts of Balochistan. It is also being made in
other Districts of Balochistan but Quetta is the main place of production.
3. History of Balochi Chappal
Balochi Chappal is being made since the dawn of Baloch nation in the region, which
is approximately 95 years ago. The evolution of balochi chappal has come from the
southern region i.e. Dera Bugti, Kuhlu, Bolan, Wadd, Khuzdar. Balochi chappal is
very much popular in all over Balochistan, because it is the indigenous shoes and is in
the civilization of Baloch tribes.
In past time Balochi chappal was completely made up of leather, the sole was alsomade with leather. Many pieces of leather were joined together and made it hard to
some extent and a complete chappal was made. Even at present time, in some tribes of
Balochistan such chappals are made used. Such chappal is called Kosh in Balochi.
But slowly and gradually when people migrated from tribal areas to cities, they came
to know that using leather pieces as sole becomes very much expensive for them, and
they also found car tire to be used as the sole. Then they started using tires as the sole
of Balochi chappal in place of leather pieces.
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4. Geographical location
Cluster is located at Prince Road in District Quetta. Quetta is the capital city of
Balochistan and is covered by mountains from four sides. This cluster operates in the
middle of the city. In east, there is Liaqat Bazaar which is the main bazaar of the city,
on west, there is Jinnah Road. On north, there is Masjid Road and Fathima Jinnah
Road and on south, there is Government Science College Quetta.
5. Composition of Balochi Chappal
Balochi Chappal is made of Leather and Car tier. The upper part of Chappal is made
of different types of leather and foam. There are many types of leather used to make
the upper part i.e. cut piece leather, high kurm leather; foam etc. leather is designed in
different shapes for different designs of Chappal. There are many beautiful designs of
Balochi Chappal, and are differentiated by the cutting of leather part. Sole of balochi
chappal is made of car tire; both new and old tires are used in making the sole, upper
part of old tire is cut and polished for the said purpose. New tire is new, it does not
need polish. Old tire is used for general designs and for ordered chappal new tire isused. There are pieces of tire available for making soles. A piece of *foam is fixed on
the tire to make it soft. No any kind of electronic machinery is used for make this
unique chappal.
6. Types of Chappal
There are two main designs of balochi chappal.
They are as under:
Balochi Shikari
Balochi chappal is mostly used by typical Balochs in cities and other tribal areas of
Balochistan. It has further many types.
Types of Balochi Chappal:
Marri cut Jhalawan cut Mangal cut Bugti cut Sada Balochi
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These names are given by the artisans them selves, these are all the names of tribes in
Balochistan, and one, which is used mostly in a particular tribe, its name is give to
that chappal. These types of Chappal are used in all over Balochistan.
Types of Shikari Chappal
Shikari Chappal is used by Pashtoon. It has further three types
shikari Sada shikari Norozi
Balochi chappal is completely hand made, there is no use of any electronic
machinery, only in some designs of Shikari and Balochi chappals, sewing machine is
used for designing, but all the other designs and fitting is done by hand operated tools.
7. Tools
Drashp, (for cutting) Kundi, (for making hols & sewing the sole) Rambi (for cutting purpose) Zamboor, (nail remover) Farma, (mould) Khat kash, (Liner) Plas Scissor Hammer
These hand operated tools are used in making chappal.
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8. Raw material
Raw materials used in making Balochi Chappal are as under
Leather, Foam, (type of leather) Car tire, Solution/glue, Thread, Nail Zip Aster (a thick piece of soft leather placed on the top of sole to make it soft)
There are many varieties in leather, some are available in Quetta and some are not.
Entrepreneurs usually travel to Karachi, Lahore and interior Punjab for the purpose.
This thing increases the cost of chappal. Local vendors say that leather, which is not
available here, is costly and is not used in all designs, if we bring it in Quetta,
entrepreneurs may not afford the cost.
According to the entrepreneurs, they bring leather stock for 6 to 12 months, which
covers their travel expenses from Quetta to other cities for the purpose.
Leather is the most prominent and expensive part of chappal which differentiates in
designs.
9. Types of leather
Many types of leather are used in making Balochi Chappal, i.e.
High kurm leather Cut piece leather *Foam Sabir (type of leather) *Aster
*Aster is also a type of leather which is used in Balochi chappal. It is fixed on the sole
(tire) to make it soft so that it should not heart the foot. Tire is too hard to put on,
thats why a piece of aster is fixed of it by sticking solution.
_____________________________________________________________________* Foam is a type of leather which is comparatively softer then the other types of leather
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Car tire is used for the sole of Balochi chappal. As it is being used to walk on the
mountainous areas from the beginning, thats why car tire was used as the sole for it,
tire is too hard and does not finish by fraction for a long time. In past, people did not
have much money to buy shoes and they needed something hard which could go for a
long time, except tire, there was no any other alternative which could be used for the
sole of their chappal. Drashp is used to cut the tire.
Sole and the upper part of chappal are fixed by sewing with hand operated tools.
kundi is used for sewing chappal.
Leather is cut in a way that some parts of leather are passed from that holes of the sole
and is fixed there.
10. Manufacturing process
The beginning of Balochi Chappal starts from cutting the leatheraccording to the size
of required number, after cutting designs are made on it, (Sizes of each number of feet
are already made on a piece of hard paper). Leather is put on that paper and cut
according to that. After cutting the leather, sole is cut according to the required size.
*Aster is fixed on the hard tire sole to make it soft. Holes are made in the sole with an
instrument (zamboor) and leather parts are dragged from those holes to fix leather
with the sole. When they finished with that, a chappal shaped wooden piece (Farma)
is fixed in that to make it hard so that they could easily fix its designs, when the
incomplete chappal is fixed in Farma, now leather is cut in different designs to fix
them on the chappal and a complete chappal is made.
Cut leather Cut tire for sole
Cut Aster
Fix Aster with
sole
Fix leather with
sole
Assemble &
hand stitch
Polishing &finishing
Endconsumers
Make designs
on leather
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11. Explanation of process
Balochi chappal making is very tough job. It needs too much time and hard work.
There are some designs which even take 2 to 3 days in completion, due to leather cut
designs on them. But a simple chappal can be made in one day by a single worker.
There are two phases of balochi chappal making. In first phase, the upper part of
chappal is made and in second phase, sole is made.Upper part of chappal is completely leather made, leather is cut in the required size
and designs are made on it.
A piece of car tire is taken as the sole, as the car tire is too hard to wear so a piece of
*Aster is fixed on tire to make it soft. When sole and upper part are completed then
these two parts are fixed together by some hole in the sole. This unfinished chappal is
put in the Farma (wooden mould) to fix the leather cut designs on the upper part.
By this way a complete chappal is made and displayed in the outlet for sale.
12. Current output
There are 100 enterprises of Balochi Chappal in the cluster, and average employmentof each enterprise is 5. Usually each worker can make 2-5 pairs in a full working day,
but the duration of making of a Balochi Chappal depends upon the design, size and
the season. Balochi chappal is a seasonal product thats why the quantity of its
manufacturing differs from season to season. Its market rises in summer and
decreases in winter. In this way the entrepreneurs also change the quantity of
production in different seasons.
But generally, monthly production of each enterprise is 300. In this way the monthly
production of the cluster is 6000 pairs.
But this quantity changes with the change in seasons.
Cost breakdowncost of raw material 65%
cost of labor 16.667%
Travel cost 8.334%
Other misc. 1.667%
Electricity 8.334%
Total 100%
13. Market
Mostly these entrepreneurs rely on direct sale to the end users at their outlets at princeroad. Even Balochi Chappal has a great demand in the national and international
market, but because of lack of knowledge about the markets and no access to these
markets, these entrepreneurs can not take their products to big markets of the country.
Pricing of the chappal is made on fixed profit margin
Their products are also taken to other countries by personal relations, which are very
much liked by the people of those countries, and earn a great profit from there. But
this thing does not give any extra benefit to the entrepreneurs, because these
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entrepreneurs do not export their items, but they just sell them at the current market
price. Extra profit goes to the person who takes them to other countries. According to
them, this cultural Chappal has a great demand and market in other countries.
The average sale of these entrepreneurs is 7 pairs/day.
Prices of Balochi Chappal start from Rs.300 to Rs.700, because of the expensive and
unavailable raw material in Quetta.
These entrepreneurs also make Chappal on order which costs upto Rs.1500. the cost
of ordered chappal is high because of the selected design and material of the
customers, they make the chappal according to the wish of the customer.
14. Finance
Finance system of this cluster is very weak; there is no concept of book keeping in
these enterprises. It is all because the illiteracy of the entrepreneurs. Mostly they are
uneducated thats why they are not able enough to keep the records of their daily
transactions. Only few of them keep records i.e. Pazwar, master cappal makers,
Noorozi chappal makers etc.
They use the credit terms min. 10 days and max. 30 days.
Them main problem in this area is that the suppliers are not willing to provide
finance.
These suppliers do not sell their products on credit to the customers from other areas
who want to buy on a large quantity because they are afraid of loosing their money.
15. Problems identified
The most common problems faced by these enterprises are as under:
Supply End:
Raw matrial is expensive and some types of leather are not available in quetta,they have to travel to Karachi, Lahore and interior Punjab and sindh for the
purpose.
They need training in designing and product developmentManufacturing:
Hand operated tools are problem for them in the production process. Their shops are very much close to the road and are open. All the dust and
smoke of vehicles inter directly into their shops which cause many diseases in
them. i.g. asthma, chest pain, cough etc.
Marketing:
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No proper market / distribution channel through which they could distributetheir products into domestic and international markets
They have no resources to develop marketing material, i.e. Brouchers,website, adds in print and electronic media, for the publicity of their products
16. Working conditions
Working conditions are not that much bad. If a local person visits the cluster and
observes the working conditions then they are good, the chappal makers are sitting on
the floor, working in an open shop having fresh air, in the main bazaar. In some
shops, a small piece of wooden table is there in front of the designer where he cuts
leather in different shapes and rest of the workers have a piece of huge stone. And in
most of other shops, this wooden table is not available; they use the piece of stone as
their table and to sharpen their cutting instruments.
But when some one from a factory visits the cluster and observes the working
conditions then it will be very painful for him, because he knows the facilities
provided for performing different works, and these workers are setting on floor,
absorbing polluted air and the disadvantage of such work is, the effect on the
backbone of the workers. They set to work from early morning till evening; this thing
has a very dangerous affect on the health of the workers. Nearly all the workers
complain pain in their backbones after finishing their work.
Fear of cutting their hands by sharp hand used instruments is always there.
Their shops are very much close to the road due to which all the dust, spread by the
cars, goes directly into the shops and they inhale it. This thing causes many diseases
for them. They think that they are sitting in a free area with fresh air but their air is
fully polluted with dust and smoke of the cars.
Lighting arrangements are not problems for them because they work only in day time
so they do not need extra arrangement for that.
17. SWOT analysis
Strengths Quality products Skilled labor Cultural / ancient crafts High consumption in domestic market Large number of producers High quantity of monthly production Hard working workers, spend most of time at their shops Can compete with other shoes companies
Weaknesses Illiteracy
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Conservative/tribal community Lack of trust with each other Inconsistency in pricing Low capacity of investment Non availability of raw material Low level of modernization and up gradation of products Have no unions Have no recognized brand name i.e. Bata, Service etc
Opportunities Demand of traditional designs Utilization of product as culture Scope in national and international markets
Threats Modern / contemporary designs Duplication of their products in low quality and low rate Slow improvement in quality
18. Strategies
Following strategies can be adopted by the government and non government
organizations for the betterment of the cluster.
Managerial and accounting training for accurate record keeping to minimizerisk of loosing products
Awareness training to overcome internal grievance Encourage entrepreneurs to invest more in business for greater profit Provision of raw material within the cluster (Quetta), encourage local vendors
to provide quality raw material in affordable prize
Training of modern designs and awareness training about modern marketdemand
Make registered association for their legal rights Develop linkages with domestic, national and international markets Prepare marketing material to promote sale of this ancient craft Marketing and product development training Provide Micro credit to the entrepreneurs so that they could run their business
smoothly
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19. Vision
Increase sale by developing market linkages. (Please quantify the vision andalso include time frame e.g. 3 years or 5 years)
Modify existing products into modern designs and patterns by designing andProduct developing training.
Confirm availability of raw material within the cluster in affordable prize Developing a marketing strategy to increase the sale of Balochi Chappal in
Balochistan as well as in National and International Markets
20. Mission
To modify the existing product according to the modern market demand so that the
sale of Balochi Chappal increase and these entrepreneurs could get some profit.
Sale of Balochi Chappal can be increased by providing quality raw material inaffordable cost, modify the existing chappal according to the need of modern market.
There is no union or team work among these entrepreneurs due to which their
production and pricing is being disturbed. We aim to make a registered association
which will tackle their legal issues in future.
21. Expected result
End usersPeople who wish to wear balochi chappal but can afford its cost, will be able to
buy it, by this way the sale will also increase accordingly.
EntrepreneursWhen they get raw material within the cluster, the production cost of cappal will
automatically decrease which will increase the sale of their products.
Managerial and accounting trainings will make them able to keep proper record oftheir sale. They will be able to sell their products on credit to the customers from
other cities
Whole sellerWhole sellers will take balochi chappal to other districts which will increase the
sale of these entrepreneurs
.
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Action plan for Proposed Association for 2 year
First 8 months
Product Development Mobilization for group/team work Union / Association formation and registration Introduction of modern market taste and demand Research and information about quality Raw Material Managerial and Accounting trainings
Second 8 months
Sample production
Product Development Training
Marketing training Designing training Quality sample production Searching for markets for quality raw material
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Contact with raw material dealers in other cities for raw material
Third 8 months
Marketing and publicity Preparation of Marketing material (printing brouchers, making
Website, ads in print and electronic media)
Searching for reasonable Local, National and Internationalmarkets
Linkage development with Local, National and Internationalmarkets