THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN MAY 16-17 2OO9

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An hour out of BuenosAires lies a lushand tranquit networkof waterways,reports Dan Cooper

S we float down the Rio Parana,the only sound we hear is thelapping of waves against the side ofthe Zodiac. Our guide Kilian hassuddenly cut the engine to let us

drift and fully appreciate the peacefulness ofArgentina's Tigre Delta.

We are surrounded by a lush green wall ofrainforest and immersed in the soft perfumeof subtropical flowering trees.

The Tigre Delta is the ideal place to brieflyunwind. Its maze of channels and lush islandsprovides a tranquil oasis just 20km to thenorthwest of the tango nightclubs and racingblack-and-yellow taxis of Buenos Aires.

Removing his shirt, Kilian slips over theside of the Zodiac and tows it through thewater to extend our silent commune withnature. He invites us to join him in the coolriver, but we haven't brought our bathingsuits so we sit back and relax in the sunshine,happy to let him do the work.

We take deep breaths of the pure air tocleanse our lungs. Occasionally a bird callsand we begin to forget about the capital'sheat, noise and pollution. Kilian promises us"the air in the delta is so full of oxygen thatyou will sleep very well tonight back in thecity". All transportation in the delta is byboat; close to 4000 people inhabit the firstsection, which is made up of traditionalhouses on stilts and summer cottages forwealthy Buenos Aires residents.

We slowly cmise through the populatedpart of the delta past these quaint holidayhomes, their gardens dotted with bright, bluehydrangeas. Weeping willows stretch downto the cool water; as we pass, people wavefrom the restaurants and small resorts thatline the banks. Even petrol stations, schoolsand hospitals are accessible only by boat.Children are picked up for their classes inlong launches and residents are providedwith medical and dental services on a floatinghospital. Large grocery boats and water taxisalso ply the waterways. We see more activevisitors in rented kayaks and canoes and passa school for wake-boarders.

As we leave the houses behind. the deltaopens up into the wide river and just beyondthis the dense rainforest closes in. Kilian tellsus these waterways trace back more than1000km into Brazil's Amazon rainforest.

Most inimals and snakes have beenhunted out here. The jaguars that gave thedelta its name of Tigre roamed freely, butthey're long gone, as are most of the red deerand wild capybara (a large rodent the size ofa hog).

But here on the quiet side tributaries northof the Rio Parana we are completely alone tcglide along the many streams and tributaries

I marvel at how Kilianrnanageq to fiqd_hiqwiy tfrroueh thelonfusing labyrinth of riversand islands without getting lost. The deltacovers 14,000sq km and the 886sq km northof the Rio Parana has been declared aprotected UNESCO biosphere reserve be-cause of its unique environment. Hunting orlogging are no longer allowed.

We finally stop for lunch at a small cabinon a secluded stream and are greeted by Lulu,

We think he means to take another swim,but when he jumps overboard he's standingin 15cm of water,-only a few feet away fromthe 15m drop-off. We cautiously join him inthe lukewarm shallows and wiggle our toeson the smooth, sandy bottom. It's as if we'rewalking on water.

Kilia-n explains that we could walk fromhere all the way to Uruguay, even thouglr, atthis point, the delta is more than 60kmacrosi, the widest in the world.

Every year, 200,000 tonnes of silt from theupper reaches of the rivers in Argentina,Piiaguay and Uruguay wash down and aredepoiited in the delta, creating new islands

channels open.In the distance, we can see the skyline of

Buenos. Aires. Even closer, the sky is dottedwith the brightly coloured sails of 50 or moreparasailers and surfboarders from marinas inSan Isidro and Tigre.

We reluctantly board the Zodiac for thereturn trip to Tigre and the train back to the

and sandbars.Only constant dredging keeps the boat

th-e owner'r pefotter", which rollsover-on,itr n*f.iodtve its betly stroteA, just like adoe. The otter is actually a nutria, or river rat,siriilar to a muskrat but a distinct speciesorized for its fur. Kilian reassures us, however,^that th"v aren't about to skin Lulu. "She'spart of the familY."^ Our home-cooked lunch includes a deli-cious bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), bakedsweet potato, salad, a nice bottle of Argentin-ian milbec and, for dessert, a pancake withsweet caramel.

The highlight of the tour, however, is yet tocome. After lunch, we make an extended tripout to the mouth of the delta where the RioParana and the Rio de la Plata meet and spilltowards the distant Atlantic Ocean.

As we leave the nalTow rainforest streamsand slip into the wider river, the sides arelined with several dozen sailboats and largecabin cruisers, the floating retreat of some ofthe wealthy from Buenos Aires.

Kilian tells us that on weekends there canbe a hundred times that many clogging theriver. We follow the channel markers into themirtdle of the Rio de la Plata, dodging someof the larger boats, then stop just to the sideof the l5m-deep dredged boat channel.

Kilian cuts the engine again and once moreinvites us to join him in the water.

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Checktistit"i.t a.oart regutarly to the smatltown ofTiere from Buenos Aires's Retiro statlon'ifr% one-hour ride goes through Buenosnii.i;t northern suburbs' Tigie can atso bevisited on an organised one-day tour or;;;;;; ;d ;ti on' i s avai lable for weekendrtrut ot longer at sma[[ boat-access resorts'sJ'tii-o.tta"orga n i ses sm a[[ tours i n.ili;.; that 96 into smatter tributaries;i;;;b;.is ian't reach' safari Delta has airiitt tours kiosk on Tigre station'More: safaridetta@sion'com'tti,ll www. d esti n o arge nti n a' i nfo

+THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN MAY 16-17 2OO9

DESTINATION AFLOATTT

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Picture: Dan CooPer