CHAPTER 21
HAIRCOLORING
CHAPTER 21
HAIRCOLORING
Haircoloring is
•One of the most creative, challenging, and popular salon services
•It is also the most lucrative !
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Add: Haircoloring is both the art and science of changing the color of hair.
www.insidesocal.com/bargain/HairColoring
Why people color their hair
Add to side bar: just the #’s
1. Unpigmented hair (graying)
Book: Cover or blend gray
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2. Self-image boost
Book: Enhance an existing color
3. Experimental
Book: create a fashion statement or statement of
self-expression www.paulanthonysalon.net/images/haircoloring.jpg
4. Artistic
Book: Correct unwanted tones
nyenoona.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/rainbow-...
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5. . Corrective
Book: Accentuate a particular haircut
Note: Either list can be used on the test, your choice
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F Y I :
“Chlorine green” hair is caused by copper deposits from the water, that grab onto the hair. Only very light hair shows this reaction.
Use a demineralizing shampoo, like Alternate Action and place
under a dryer or use baking
soda and water to remove
deposits.
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Knowing how products affect the hair will allow you to make the best product choices for your client.
Hair Structure
Quick review of the structure of the hair.
Hair Facts
Q. What is the outer most layer of the hair called?
Q. What is the purpose of the cuticle?
Q. List two points about the cortex.
Q. How much of a role does the medula play in haircoloring?
Q. Why is texture, density and porosity factors we must consider when performing color services?
Texture: individual hair strand
•Coarse, medium, fine
Melanin is distributed differently-refer to Figure 21-3
Fine hair texture
•Takes color faster
•Can look darker
Medium hair texture
•Has average response to haircolor products
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Coarse hair texture
•Can take longer to process
Density-hair per square inch
•thin, medium, thick-dense
•Needs to be considered when applying haircolor
Q. How would this matter, and what do we need to do?
Porosity-ability to absorb liquid
•Porous hair accepts color faster
~ darker than expected end result
Q. Explain the step needed to do the test for porosity
•Resistant hair (low porosity)
~ requires more processing time
•Normal porosity (average)
~ processes in an average amount of time
•Overporous (high)
~ takes color quickly
~ fades quicklywww.style-hair-magazine.com/images/foilhighli...
Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone
Q. What is the 1st thing Mrs. K and I do prior to creating a color formula?
Two types of melanin in the cortex:
•Eumelanin-black and brown •Pheomelanin-blond and red
•Natural hair color contains both (Mixed melanin)
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Contributing Pigment
• Known as “undertone”, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during permanent color or lightening process
• The darker the natural level,the more intense the contributing pigment
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• Must be taken into consideration before the haircolor selection is made
• Haircoloring modifies this pigment to create new pigment
The Level System
•Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness
•Saturation, density, or concentration of a color
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Level system
*use to determine the lightness or darkness of colors
•Arranged on a scale of 1-1 0
-1 being the darkest (black)
-10 being the lightest
(pale blonde)
Add: Value-unit of measurement to evaluate lightness or darkness
Identifying Natural Level
•First step in haircolor service
•Valuable tool-color wheel
•Use haircolor swatch book
Demonstrate the four steps
Read: Here’s a Tip
1- Blue Black
2- Black
3- V. Dk. Br
4- Dk. Brown
5- Med. Brown
6- Lt. Brown
7- Dk. Blonde
8- Med. Blonde
9- Lt. Blonde
10-Lightest Bl.Natural Hair Color Levels(this is the number system Mrs. Kucas and I follow. Page 632 is a little different)
Gray Hair
•Associated with aging
~ heredity
•Solid or blended
~ “salt and pepper”
•Requires special attention in formulating
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•Color is the visible spectrum of light
•Human eye only sees red, green, or blue, or other shades
Color Theory
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•Before applying color products
*have an understanding of color theory
***All are developed by primary and secondary color
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•A base color is the predominant tone of a color
Ex. Violet base color=cool result
*minimizes unwanted yellow tones
Blue-base haircolor=coolest results
*minimizes orange tones
Add:
Violet-green-blue=cool tones
Yellow-orange-red=warm tones
***Red-orange base*bright warm results
***Gold bases*brunettes to light blondes
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The Law of Color
•Is a system for understanding color relationships
•When combining colors, you always get the same result from the same combination
•Equal parts of:
red and blue always =violet
blue and yellow always=green
red and yellow always=orange
Primary Colors
•Pure colors that cannot be created by combining other colors
•All colors are created from these three primaries…
Blue
Red
Yellow
Primary Colors
•Predominance of blue
*cool colors
•Predominance of red and or yellow
*warm colors
•Blue is the strongest and the only cool primary color
*brings depth or darkness to any color
•Red is the medium primary color
* Red added to blue-based colors ~ appear lighter
•Red added to yellow
~ become darker
Yellow is the weakest of the primary colors
• yellow added to other colors
~ lighter and brighter
•All three primary colors present in equal proportions
* the color is brown
Secondary Colors
•Obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors
Green=blue and yellow
Orange=red and yellow
Violet=blue and red
Primary and Secondary Colors
Refer to the color wheel
Tertiary Colors
•Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color with its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts
Blue-green
Blue-violet
Red-violet
Red-orange
Yellow-orange
Yellow-green
*test info*
Q. Why is it necessary to fully understand the law of color?
A. Natural-looking haircolor is made up of a combination of primary
colors, secondary colors, and tertiary colors
Complementary Colors
•Are a primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel
•Complimentary color
include blue and
orange, red and
green, yellow and violet and…
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• They neutralize each other
Q.What do we mean neutralize each other?
Complementary colors are used to:
•Neutralize or refine unwanted tones in the hair
•Help you choose the
correct color
*review reference
guide page 635www.diycalculator.com/imgs/cvision-ryb-primar...
It’s easy to remember the complimentary colors:
Mrs. Kucas’ great idea
Green-red=Christmas
Blue-orange=almost Halloween
Yellow-violet=Easterdecorvillage.files.wordpress.com/2007/11/pump...www.assetfinancesolutions.info/images/chicks.jpg
Tone or Hue of Color
Add: Describes the warmth or coolness of a color
Tone or Hue of Color
•Answers-which color to use for clients desired result
•Warm, cool, or neutral (or tonality)
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•Warm tones look lighter*gold, orange, red, yellow
Use with clients: *auburn, amber, copper,
strawberry, bronze
Ex. Our tube says
6 RO=level 6 with red-orange toneTell client: dark strawberry blonde
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•Cool tones look deeper*blue, green, and violet
Use with clients:*smoky, ash, drab, or
platinum
Ex. 4B Level 4 brown with a blue tone
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• Natural tones (also called neutral tones) are warm tones
~ described as sandy or tan
Intensity-strength of a colors Add: tonality
•Described as soft, medium, or strong
•Color intensifiersAdd: color additives
are tones added to a haircolor formula to intensify the
results (show our intensifiers
• Base color is the predominant tone of a color
• Identified by a number and letter
• # indicates the level
• Letter indicates the tone
• Ex. 6G• Level 6-dark blonde
• With a gold base
• When selecting formula=know what tone the client likes and dislikes
*** client will say they do not want to see red-in many cases this would include gold (caramel)
• Neutral base colors are used to cover gray hair.
Types of Haircolor
Four categories:
•Temporary
•Semipermanent
•Demipermanent
•Permanent
Non-oxidative
Oxidative
Add next to nonoxidative:
Vegetable, flowers, herbs, salts of heavy metal
(veg. tints, metallic dyes, compound dyes)
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•Patch test required for all, except temporary color
Q. What is the purpose of a patch test?
Q. Is a patch test required prior to using lightener (bleach)?
Q. What wording does the Cosmetology State Law give us that requires us to patch test prior to aniline derivative tints?
http://www.hennaforhair.com/ppd/index.html
Click on “a severe reaction to hair dye following sensitization from PPD temporary tattoo”
•All haircolor products and lighteners contain:
~ a developer (oxidizing agent) ~an alkalizing ingredient
Alkalizing ingredient-ammonia or an ammonia substitute is to:
•Raise cuticle of the hair fiber so tint can penetrate the cortex
•Increase the penetration of tints within the hair (oxidation
reaction)
•Trigger the lightening action of the peroxide
The next paragraph said differently:
The alkalizing agent:
- opens the cuticle
- the peroxide enters into the cortex
- breaks up the melanin (lighteners)
- permanent color does this to a lesser degree, then replaces it with new color
Temporary Color
Neutralize yellow hair or unwanted tones
Q. What tone would we use for this?
Q. What happens when a tone (like blue) is used and there is no
complimentary tone (yellow) ?
Just ask Mr. Herr !!!!!
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Top: Several applications of lightener, then toned with violet
Bottom: used blue to counter the yellow
•Pigment molecules are large
*prevent penetration the cuticle layer
•Coating action only
•Removed by shampooing
•Nonoxidation color
•Physical change not a chemical change
•No patch test required
Temporary haircolors are available in a variety of colors and products:
Q. If this product only coats the hair, how can it last for a week?
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•Colored mousses and gels
•Hair mascara/crayons
for dramatic effects
(or to hide gray
regrowth)teendiariesonline.com
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•Spray-on haircolor
•Color-enhancing
shampoos:
-brighten
-impart slight color
-eliminate unwanted
toneswww.allproducts.com.tw/.../01-hair-l.jpg
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Add all:
Coating- residue left on the outside of the hair shaft
Made from preformed dyes
Certified colors-standards for purity-FDA approved
Semipermanent Haircolor
•Nonoxidation color
•Not mixed with peroxide
•Last through several shampoos, *depending on the hair’s
porosity
•Partially penetrate the hair shaft *stain the cuticle
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*fades with each shampoo
•Lasts about 4-6 shampoos
(used to be 4-6 weeks)
Q. What do you think caused this change?
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•Only deposits color
•Does not lighten the hair
***No significant color change
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•Does not require maintenance of new growth
•Far more gentle
•Requires a patch test
•Used right out of the bottle
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Add: (in very small writing)•no ammonia
*if mixed with an activator develops the color pigments within the formula (not in hair)
*swells the cortex
*opens the cuticle for color penetration
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Demipermanent Haircolor
•No-lift deposit only haircolor
***Lasts longer than semi
Add: penetrate the hair shaft
•Less alkaline
*mixed with low volume developer
Wellaprofessionals.co.uk
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ADD: No ammonia or low ammonia formula
•Uses alkalizing agents other than ammonia
*oxidizing agents other than peroxide
•Not necessarily less damaging
•If milder, active ingredient is lower 4.bp.blogspot.com/.../s400/SHADES.png
•Introduces client to color service
Add: *vivid color results
*reverse highlighting
•Blend or cover gray
•Refreshes faded
permanent color
•Color corrections
•Restoring natural colorz.hubpages.com/u/740838_f260.jpg
•Deepens or creates a change in tone
•Usually used on cold shaft and ends during a regrowth touch-up
• Refreshes previously colored hair
•Available in: gel, cream, or liquid
•Requires a patch test
Cgi.ebay.ph
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Permanent Haircolor
•Lighten and deposit color at the same time
*single process
*more alkaline
•Mixed with a higher volume developer
•Used to match, lighten and cover gray www.beautyofnewyork.com/upload/lorealmajirel.jpg
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ADD:
***Contains: ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
•Requires a patch test
•Contain uncolored dye precursors
*very small
*easily penetrate the hair shaft
•Called Aniline derivatives
•Combined with peroxide forms larger, permanent tint
molecules
•Molecules are trapped in the cortex
•Cannot be easily shampooed out
•Lighten the natural color
*permanent change
Add:
Action- causes the hair shaft to swell and the cuticle to open
Ammonia- a colorless pungent gas composed of hydrogen and nitrogen, it is used in the haircolor to swell the cuticle
Soap cap:
•Equal parts permanent color mixture and shampoo
•Use last 5 minutes
•Worked through hair to refresh ends
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Permanent color:
•Best for covering gray hair
•Removes natural pigment
*through lightening
•At the same time adds artificial color
•Results=natural-looking color
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Erdamtasdelen.com
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Add:
High-lift tinting-single process, higher degree of lightening action and minimal amount of color deposit
Review the 4 haircolor categories:
Q. List the four categories of haircolor.
Q. If the desired color result is to stain the cuticle layer which type of haircolor would you choose?
Q. What color product provides a coating for the hair?
Q. Which product will give me the most vivid color results?
Q. What is happening to the hair during a permanent haircolor service?
Q. Out of the four categories which require a patch test prior to application?
Q. Out of the four which would be good for unpigmented hair?
Q. Which one causes a physical change in the hair shaft?
Natural and Metallic Haircolors
•Not used in salons
•Include: natural, vegetable and metallic haircolors
•Gradual colors
•Repeated use creates a buildup
*grayish or green cast
Natural/Vegetable Haircolors
•Henna-obtained from leaves or bark of plants
•Does not lightening/lift
•Process can be lengthy and messy
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•Shade range is limited
•Henna only available in clear, black,
chestnut, and auburn tones
• No chemical services can be performed over natural hair colors due to coating on the hair shaft (uneven or undesirable results can be expected)
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Metallic Haircolors:
•Called gradual colors and progressive dyes
•Contain metal salts
•Change hair color gradually by: *progressive buildup
*exposure to air
*creating a dull, metallic appearance
•Require daily application
•Marketed to men
•Unnatural-looking colors
•Limited shade range
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FYI: not needed on test
•Destroy sulfur-cross-links in the cortex-hair breakage or hair loss
•Metals interfere with PW and our other chemicals (tint)
FYI con’t
•Metals can be absorbed through the skin and reach dangerous levels in the body
•Users report: headaches, dermatitis reactions, facial swelling, & lead poisoning
•Removal of metallic colors is difficult and not recommended
•If hydrogen peroxide or any other chemical is added to a metal salt it will melt the hair
•Read Caution page 639
1.In glass container, mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of 28% ammonia water.
2.Cut a strand of the client’s hair, bind with tape, and immerse in the solution for 30 minutes
3.Remove, towel dry, observe the strand
Test for Metallic Salts (pg. 583)
*Needed for Chapter test*
Hair with lead-lightens immediately
Silver-no reaction (other chemicals will not be able to penetrate the coating)
Copper-hair will start to boil and will easily pull apart (other
chemicals would severely damage or destroy the hair).
Other info to know for test:
•Silver dyes fade to a green cast
•Lead dyes fade to a purple cast
•Copper dyes turn red
Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
•Is an oxidizing agent
*when mixed with an oxidation color
*supplies oxygen gas to develop color molecules
*creates a change in natural hair color
•pH between 2. 5 - 4. 5
•Others developers on market; peroxide is most common for haircolor
•Different forms-liquid and cream
Volume: measures the concentration and strength of H2O2
Lower the volume=less
lift is achieved
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•Higher volume=greater the lifting action
•10,20,30,40 are used for proper lift and color
development
•Store-cool, dark place
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Add to side bar:
20 volume-one-two levels of lift
30 volume-two-three levels of lifts
40 volume-three-four levels of lift
10 volume-deposit only *does not cause enough lift
to consider
Add:
Stabilizers are added to prolong the life, appearance, and performance of product.
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Not in book-need to know:
High-lift tint will allow you to achieve four levels of lift successfully.
Many haircolor brands are mixed equal parts developer/tint.
Ratio of 1:1
High-lift tints are a ratio of 1:2
*use 40 volume developer
Tint Developer
Lighteners
•Lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural pigment
•H2O2 mixed with lightener begins to release oxygen
•Known as oxidation
*happens within the cortex
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• To achieve a very pale blonde shade use a double-process application
• Known as a two-step coloring
• Hair is prelightened, then the depositing color is applied
• Using a lightener-up to 90 minutes
• Once hair is properly lightened, second step adds soft tone back to the hair
• Called toning process
• Toners-very light shade palette to add tone to decolorized hair
• Demipermanent colors, Level 8-10 are also used as toners
Lighteners are also used to achieve:
•Lighten the hair prior to application of a final color
•Lighten hair to a particular shade
•Brighten and lighten an existing shade
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Q. What situation would cause us not to be able to achieve a blonde shade?
A. If client wants a color lighter than 4 shades of lift. Remember tint can only go up 4 levels.
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•Lighten only certain parts of the hair
•Lighten dark natural or color-treated levels
The Decolorizing Process
•Hair goes though different stages of color as it lightens
Add: Stages-visible color change that natural hair goes through while being lightened
•depends on how much pigment the hair has
•the strength of the lightening product
•length of time it is processed
•goes through as many as 10 stages
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Depicts how long it takes to lift thru the gold.
•Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result
•First, the hair is decolorized to the appropriate level
•New color is applied to deposit the desired color
•Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to a beautiful, controlled, final haircoloring result.
Q. If the client is a natural level 2 (very dark brown), and
wants to have level 7 (medium blonde) full head of color, what level of decolorization will I need to get to for a successful color?
•Toners
*Semi-permanent
*Demipermanent
*Permanent haircolor products
used primarily on prelightened
hair to achieve pale and delicate colors
*process up to 5 minuteswww.mynewhair.info/.../2008/10/05blonde.gif
•Not all hair will go through 10 stages of lightening
•Each natural color starts at a different stage
•Goal: is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result
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•Hair is never safely lifted past the pale yellow stage to white
•Causes excessive damage to the hair strand
•Result: wet hair feels mushy
and will stretch without
returning to original
length
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•When dry: hair is harsh and brittle
•Often suffers breakage and will not accept toner properly
•Baby-blonde look (Marilyn Monroe/Madonna) can be achieved by lightening to a pale yellow and neutralizing the unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with a toner
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CONSULTATION
•Most critical
•First step in establishing a relationship with your client
•Client will communicate what she is looking for
•Listen carefully so you can make the appropriate haircolor recommendations
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• Allow sufficient time ensure a client’s satisfaction
***Have proper lighting, walls should be a neutral or white color
Steps to include:
1.Book client 15 minutes
extra
Introduce yourself and welcome
them to the salon
Offer a beverage
Allow no interruptions
2. Have client fill out information card
-hair history
-tells what kind of color service client is looking for
-pay attention to client’s skin and eye color
-condition and length of hair, amount of gray
3. Look directly at client
ask what they are thinking about doing with hair color
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Ask leading questions
Let them talk
Your questions might include:
•Temporary or permanent change
•All over or highlights
•Conservative or dramatic
If you ask a client: do you want your color to whisper, talk or scream? You will gain a clear picture of how they want to look, how much of a highlight, or how light/bold the color is to be.
Describe what you would label your hair color as.
•Use people’s hair from the media to help describe an effect
•Add shine to your hair?
4. Recommend at least two different options
5. Review the procedure and application techniques
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-cost of service and follow-up maintenance
-several steps may be needed to achieve result
-may not be able to afford it, have a more economical back-up solution ready
6. Be honest, do not promise the world
-corrective color solutions take time, let client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve desired look
7. Gain approval from the client
8. Start the hair color service
9. Educate and inform client about home care, products, rebooking, what shampoo and conditioner is needed, how many weeks to the next service
10. Fill out client haircolor card
Read both Caution Boxes and the Focus On
Release Statement
Q. What statement can be made about release statements in PA.?
Q. Name two haircolor safety precautions that will prevent injury to a client.
A. Patch test and do not tint eyelashes or eyebrows with haircolor.
Formulation:
•Four basic questions that must always be asked when
formulating a haircolor
***Drape the client for a chemical service, and try to answer these four questions, then give us the answers when we come to help you formulate.
**Need to know all four questions for the test
1.What is the natural level? Is there any gray hair?
2.What is the client’s desired level and tone?
3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed?
4.What colors should be mixed to get the desired result and what volume of developer?
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: www.dailymakeover.com/blogs/hueman-behavior/2...
Formulation con’t:
•Combination of the shade and the volume of H2O2
determines the lifting ability of a haircolor
•Formulate with both lift and deposit in mind
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Add:
Formulation: art of mixing to create a blend or balance of two or more ingredients.
•Higher lifting formulas may not cancel the warmth of a client’s natural contributing pigment
•Volume of H2O2 mixed with the haircolor product will also influence the lift and deposit
Ex. Bright reds
Q. Can I mix the color of the hair swatch that the client showed me she liked? Why or why not?
Q. What will help me todetermine the tone that will be needed?
Q. When you have a color client, what will you do before
calling Mrs.K or myself over?
Mixing Permanent Colors:
•Method of mixing is determined by the type of application you are using
•Applied by either bowl and brush or applicator bottle
•Always follow manufacturer’s directions
Applicator bottle:
•Large enough to hold
color and developer,
enough room to shake to mix the product
•For ratio 1:1-pour 1 ounce developer into bottle, add 1 ounce of color, mix
Q. What is another way to say ratio 1:1?
Equal parts
•For a ratio 1:2-one part high lift tint to two parts developer, or
Ex.-1 ounce tint to 2 ounces developer
Q. What is another way to say this ratio?
Double peroxide
•This is the ratio for high-lift blonde colors
Matrix
Socolor
3 ounce tube
Most brands are 2 ounce tubes 1/2
1
1 1/2
2
2 1/2
*On test*
Let’s talk mixing
Brush and bowl:
•Use nonmetallic bowl!!!!!
•Measure developer into bowl
•Add color/colors in appropriate proportions
•Use applicator brush, stir to blend
Patch test info:
•To determine any allergy or sensitivity to the mixture
•Also called *predisposition test
*hypersensitivity test
*sensitivity test
*allergy test
•Must be given 48 hours prior to each application of an aniline derivative tint
Add all three:
•Must be the same tint brand and color that will be used on the hair
•Negative skin test/or result-shows no sign of inflammation
* color may be safely applied
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•Positive result-shows redness, rash, welt, swelling, itching, burning, blisters, open sores and breathing difficulties-do not use this product on your client
***You can patch test with a different brand of color, however I would expect them to be allergic to that as well.
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Result of using permanent haircolor on the eyebrows.
Blindness may occur.
(this client did a 48 hour patch test and it was negative)
*Read both Caution Boxes
The ingredient that people are allergic to is:
Add: para-phenylenediamine or PPD.
***There are other ingredients that clients could be sensitive to as well, but this is the most common one.
***About 1 in 100 react to haircolor.
***I have seen one case in 26 years
Q. Does it matter what level of developer is used in the patch test? Why or
why not?
Q. What will determine how long the patch test is to remain on the
client’s skin?Q. What must we anticipate from a higher volume of developer than 20, when mixed with a level 6 haircolor?
Q. We know that we will pull more orange and red, so what complimentary tone must we include in the formula?
Haircolor Applications
•Follow a prescribed procedure
•Makes for greatest efficiency and the safest, most satisfactory results
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Preliminary Strand Test
•Once formula is created-try it on a small strand of hair
•This will tell you how the hair will react to the formula and how long to process
•The strand test is performed after the client is prepared for the coloring
service.
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Temporary Colors:
•Apply to manufacturer’s directions
Semi-permanent Haircolor
•Deposit only
•Color applied over color always creates a darker color
•Porosity determines how well the products “take”
•Can build up on the ends
•Strand test will determine the formula and processing time
***Strand test prior to rinsing out tints and lighteners
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Q. Explain the difference between a preliminary strand test and a strand test.
Demipermanent Haircolor
•Great way to introduce client to color
•Enhance their natural color
•Application is similar to semipermanent, FMD
Gray hair: special challenges
•Depth of color may appear too harsh
•Allow for some brightness and warmth
•Select a shade one level lighter*more natural-looking result
• Previous color service-greater degree of porosity
• Take into consideration when formulating and applying
FYI (whole page)
Single Process tints:
•Usually contain a lightening agent, shampoo, an aniline derivative tint, & an alkalizing agent to activate the added peroxide
•Usually uses 20 volume developer
•When using other volumes of developer, the results will be altered
Single-Process Permanent Haircolor
• Lightens and deposits color in a single application
•Includes: Virgin tint going lighter
Tint retouch
•Prelightening or presoftening is not required
Single-process Color Retouch:
*use a glaze (nonammonia) to add shine and tone the hair shaft and ends
1. Retouch the new growth
*Do not overlap
*causes breakage and a
“line of demarcation”-visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
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Done for effect
2. Process color according to your analysis and strand test results
3. Refresh faded ends
* no-lift deposit-only haircolor
*rinse the color through the ends, shampoo/condition
Add: Shampoo two times for all lighteners and color services
Q. Explain why we would see a line of demarcation.
A. When the color is applied to porous hair (previously tinted) it will usually take a deeper tone than the new growth will, leaving you with a line of two colors.
Add: Line of Demarcation-obvious difference between two colors on the hair shaft
Double-Process Haircolor:
•Process of hair lightening
•Known as bleaching or decolorizing
•Diffusion of the natural hair color or artificial haircolor from the hair
Double-process Haircolor:
•Dramatically lighter color
•Prelightened first
•To achieve pale or cool colors use double-process application
•Decolorize with lightener
*then deposit desired tone
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Modern day accelerating machines to process perms and color faster
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•Known as double process high-lift coloring and two-step
blonding
1. Hair is prelightened first
2. Then toned
•Prelightening lifts the
natural pigments, before
the toner
*wider range of haircolor possibilities
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•By prelightening the hair to the desired color you create a perfect foundation for longer- lasting red colors that avoid muddiness and stay true to tone
Add: Shampoo all
color/lightener
services 2 times
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•Prelightener is applied the same way as a regular lightening treatment
•Once reached desired shade, lightly shampoo, acidify and towel dry
•Do a strand test to ensure the results of the toner
•Apply color/toner in the usual manner
Read Focus On and Caution Box
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Using Lighteners
•Choose from oil, cream and powder
•Oil/cream: on-the-scalp lighteners
•Powder: off-the-scalp lighteners
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On-the-scalp lighteners:
*cream and oil, some powder*
•Easy to apply
•Oil-mildest
*one or two levels of color lift is desired
•Used professionally to lighten dark facial and body hair
•Cream
*strong enough for high-liftblonding
•Gentle on scalp
•Conditioning agents that give some protection to hair and scalp
•Thickeners give more control during application
•Do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouch services
•May be mixed with activators (boosters, protinators, accelerators) in the form of dry crystals. ON TEST
•Activators
*powdered persulfate salts
*increase lifting powerwww.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rou...
•More activators, the lighter the hair
•Up to 3 for on-the-scalp
•Up to 4 off-the-scalp
•Increase scalp irritation
Powdered Off-the-scalp lighteners:
•Quick lighteners
•Strong, fast acting powder
•Dry out more quickly
*cover with plastic cap
•Do not run or drip
•Expand and spread out
Time factors:
•Darker the hair, more melanin, takes longer
•Influenced by porosity, lightening agent can reach the cortex faster
•Tone-more red, more difficult to achieve pale delicate shades
•Ash blondes are difficult to achieve
•Strength of product affects the timing
•Heat leads to quicker timing
***use infrared lamps
•Stage of lightening must be observed to avoid excessive lift
•If lightened beyond desired foundation toner may not develop properly in the hair shaft
•When this occurs, the toner shade may “grab” the base color, giving an ashy, cool tone
Preliminary Strand Test
*determines processing time
*condition of hair
*end result
•Watch strand for any discoloration or breakage
•Recondition if needed prior to toning
•Carefully record all data on client’s card
•If test shows hair is not light enough, increase strength of mixture and/or processing time
•If strand is too light, decrease the strength of mixture and/or
decrease the processing time
•Patch test done prior to application of a toner
***Save time-strand test and patch test the same day
Read both Caution boxes
Lightener retouch:
•New growth
*part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been colored
•Applied only to the
new growth
Q. Name the application that must be used for a successful retouch on this client.
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• Use cream lightener for retouch
• Less irritating to the scalp
• Helps prevent overlapping
*overlapping can cause severe breakage or lines of demarcation
• Consult record card
*lightener formula, timing and other matters
Using Toners
•Primarily used on prelightened hair
*achieve pale, delicate colors
•Requires double-process application
-application of lightener
-application of toner
*no-lift deposit only
•Contributing pigment
*color that remains in the hair after lightening
(foundation)
•Achieve the correct
foundation
*to create the right color and degree of porosity required for proper toner development
Contributing pigment needed for a light red color
•Manufacturer’s will include literature recommending
the foundation necessary to achieve the desired color
•Paler the desired color the lighter the foundation
•Overlightened hair will “grab” the base of the toner
•Underlightened hair will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than the intended color
•Do not prelighten past the paleyellow stage
•This creates overporous hair that will have inadequate amounts of natural pigment left in the cortex for the toner to bond to
•Refer to law of color to select a toner
*neutralize or compliment
Toner Application
•Patch test required/***strand test
•Proceed with application only if the patch test is negative and the hair is in good condition
• Speed and accuracy in applying is important
*determines whether you get good color results
Procedure-check with instructor
Q. What would your first instinct be for the procedure?
Special effects haircoloring:
•Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring
*pure fashion
techniques
•Versatile and exciting
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•Strategically placing light
and dark colors in
the hair
•Highlighting involves coloring strands lighter than
natural color
* illusion of depthperfecthairbymimi.com/.../images/hair_color3.jpg
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•Light colors appear larger
•Makes details more visible
•Reverse highlighting or low lighting colors strands darker than the
natural color
•Contrasting dark areas
recede, appear smaller
•Make detail less visible
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•As you expand your
knowledge, you will
become more creative
•Possibilities are limited
only by your imagination
Techniques for highlighting
•Cap
•Foil
•Balayage or free-form1.bp.blogspot.com/_Co-NcLNyFP4/SSSV4wvTYYI/AA...
Cap technique:
•Involves pulling clean, DRY strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal needle
•Comb to remove tangles
•# of strands pulled determines the amount of highlighting or lowlighting
•Small # pulled effect will be subtle
•Noticeable effect when many are pulled though
•Caution: the density of the client’s hair must be considered
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•For high/lowlighting-apply lightener or any haircolor
FYI **when desired shade is reached
-rinse product off of cap
(if lightener is used, cool water)
-add small amount of shampoo
-untie and slide cap off
-wet down all hair
-shampoo twice, condition
•Do this except if a toner is needed after the lightener
FYI To tone:
*rinse lightener off of cap with cool water
* add small amount of shampoo
* cleanse off bleach
* rinse out with cap on
* towel dry hair thoroughly
*dry with blow dryer
* add toner and process.
When toner is finished proceed as before.
Go under cap to erase a pull that is too thick
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***use caps only on shorter hair/never long hair
Foil Technique:
•Involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections
* placing them on foil or plastic wrap
*applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the foil or plastic
•Use permanent haircolor for softer looks/red HL
•Placing foil in hair is an art
•Takes practice and discipline
•Slicing-take 1/8th” section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp
•Position hair over the foil
•Apply lightener/color
•Carefully close the foil while preventing the foil from slipping
Fold all foils on a diagonal line to prevent foils from slipping.
Show movie
Be sure the top is no longer or shorter than the parting
•Weaving-selected strands are picked up from a narrow (1/8th”) section of hair
• use a zigzag motion of the comb
•Place hair over foil
•Apply lightener or color
•Carefully close the foil while preventing the foil from slipping
•Many patterns that foils can be placed in the hair
•Face-frame, half-head, three quarter head, full-head
•To produce different highlights in different portions of the head
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Foil retouch:
Apply product to the regrowth only-not the entire strand
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Balayage technique:
•Or free-form, involves painting of a lightener (usually powder lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair
•Applied with tint brush or a tail comb from base to ends
around the head
•Extremely subtle/used to draw attention to the surface of the hair or…
Very bold effect done on blonde hair
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Will look “sun kissed”
Toning overhighlighted and dimensionally colored hair:
•When hair is decolorized to the desired level
*toner may not be necessary
•If a cool tonality is desired, use a toner to cancel any undesirable yellow contributing pigment
•An oxidative toner will add color to the highlighted strands
* it might also causing a slight amount of lift to the natural, or pigmented hair
***Result may be uneven tonality *warmth brought out
•Strand test to ensure best results
Avoiding untreated hair options:
•Use a nonoxidative toner
*no ammonia
-no developer (thus no lift)
•Is gentler on the scalp and hair
•Semipermanent color can be used (deposit/no lift)
•Always check with the
manufacturer’s color
chart for the base color of
your chosen toner, to ensure
that when the toner combines
with the contributing pigment,
gives you the exact tone you want
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•Use a demipermanent haircolor
*deposit only without ammonia
•Lasts longer than temporary or semipermanent toner
Highlighting Shampoo
Prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo
•Slight change in shade is desired
*Or when a client’s hair processes very rapidly
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•Highlights the hair’s natural color in a single application
•No patch test is required
****Other:
•Mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide
•Natural color is slightly lightened
•No patch test required
•Follow manufacturer’s directions
Special problems in haircolor/corrective coloring
•Each haircoloring service is unique and can present unique challenges
•Complete client
consultation and
analysis of hair is
critical4.bp.blogspot.com/.../s320/hairsos1.jpg
•Strand tests
*satisfactory final results
•Even the most skilled colorist will occasionally have a problem that could not be predicted
Gray hair: Challenges and Solutions
•Gray, white, and salt and pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges
•Gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough
Yellowed Hair:
•Gray hair with a yellow cast is caused by:
•smoking
•medication
•Sun exposure
•hair sprays and
styling aidsmanolomen.com/images/sam-elliott-with-yellow-...
•Lighteners and tint removers can help remove yellow discoloration
•Can be overpowered (neutralized) by the deposit of violet-based colors
Add: Discoloration-development of undesired shades through chemical reactions
Q. What is the problem when we see someone with blue or violet hair? (Mr. Herr’s blue haired ladies)
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Blue-violet toner was used
Formulating For Gray Hair:
•Accepts the level of the color applied
•Level 9 or higher may not give complete coverage (not enough pigment)
Add: Coverage-ability of a product to color unpigmented , white, or other colors of the hair
•Level 7 or darker will cover better, can be used for pastel & blonde tones
Before and after:
Lowlights in gray hair
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Q. What effect would a lighter color
have on this client?
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•For 80-100% gray-blonde range is better
•Selected color can be warm or cool depending on skin, eye color and preference
Q. What theory can you state about why the hair changes to gray?
A. As we age skin, eye color and hair lose pigment/part of aging process
•Salt and pepper (low percentage of gray)
*color on color will always make a darker tone
•To compensate: use a shade 2 levels lighter than the natural dark hair
•Always strand test
•Follow the chart-table 21-5 and manufacturer’s product color chart
•Take into account client’s:
*personality
*personal preferences
*amount of gray and it’s location
Location:
-majority gray in the front section
-formulate on percentage of gray hair the client sees
-hair that surrounds the face influences the client’s self-image
Tips for Achieving gray Coverage:
•Level 7 medium-blonde or deeper•20 vol. developer
•Process 45 minutes
•Add neutral or neutral (warm tone)in percentages that follow
•High-lift blonde will not cover gray hair
•Use Level 7 then add highlights
Presoftening:
•Gray hair can be resistant
•Raises the cuticle
*allows better penetration of color
•Acts like a stain
• Presoftener is applied, processed, and removed
• Then haircolor is applied
• Allow to process 15 minutes or FMD
• While presoftening the resistant areas, mix and apply final formula to the rest of the head
***To presoften:
•Mix according to manufacturer’s directions
•Apply to most resistant areas first
•Process room temperature 5-20 minutes/FMD
•Wipe color off gently with towel to remove
•Next, apply desired level and tone to achieve end results
Or use Mrs. Mandato’s “Primer”
•Chemistry is different, this is not a presoftening technique
•In clinic, when one of us is working with you use their technique, learn both, then you decide which to use
Rules for Effective Color Correction
•Color may not come out as expected
•Problems can be corrected
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Q. What is the main reason this color needs correcting. Determine what tone would be better and why.
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1.Do not panic
2.Determine the nature of the problem
3.Determine what caused the problem
4.Develop a solution
5.Always take one step at a time
Keep in mind:
6. Never guarantee an exact result
7. Always strand test for accuracy
Damaged Hair:
•Blow-drying, wind harsh shampoos, and chemical services affect the condition of the hair
•Coating compounds:
*hairspray
*styling agents
*some conditioners can block color penetration
***Heavy coatings/shampoo and dry hair under dryer for better results
Hair is considered damaged with one or more of:
•Rough texture
•Overporous condition
•Brittle and dry
•Susceptible to breakage
•No elasticity
•Becomes spongy and matted when wet
•Color fades or
grabs too dark
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•Any of these conditions can create problems during tinting, lightening, PW, or hair relaxing treatments
•Give reconditioning
treatments prior to,
and after the
application of these
chemical processes
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Tips for damaged hair:
•Use a penetrating
conditioner that deposits
protein, oils, and moisture
rich ingredients
•Complete each chemical
service with a low
pH finishing rinsewww.joicoeurope.com/.../Stylist2009_products.jpg
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Q. What do we use here that is an acidic finishing rinse?
Q. What effect will Reginal have in the hair?
•Postpone any further chemical services until hair is
reconditioned
•Schedule client for between-service conditioning
•Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for
the next service
Q. If the damage to the client’s hair is your fault, do you
charge for conditioning treatments or home care products? If client’s fault, same Q?
Fillers:
•Equalize porosity
***Can be ready-made by manufacturer or are prepared by mixing haircolor and
conditioner
Allure.com
•Two types:
•Conditioner fillers and
color fillers
•Conditioner fillers
*recondition damaged, overly porous hair
*equalize porosity
•Apply in a separate procedure or immediately prior to color
applicationwww.cheniceprosalon.com/color_filler%5B1%5D.jpg
•Color fillers
•Equalize porosity
•Deposit color
•Uniform contributing pigment
•Use no-lift deposit only haircolor (demipermanent)
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Advantages:
•Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaft
•Help hair to hold color
•Prevents streaking and dull appearance
Add: Faded-to loose color through exposure to the elements, or other factors
•Prevents off-color results
•Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint
•Produces uniform color
when doing a tint
back
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Selecting the Correct Color Filler
•All three primary colors must be present
*looks natural
Ex. Blonde hair to Brown:
Yellow Blue
orange-red is needed
•To correct unwanted haircolor:
*use the complementary color that is missing
Yellow blonde hair*corrected with violet
Orange blonde hair*corrected with blue
Adding blue to yellow hair*makes green
Haircolor Tips for Redheads
•Exciting and fun
•Fading common problem
•Artificial pigment within the hair shaft continues to oxidize and fade
***Use lower volume developer to prevent fading and brassiness
z.about.com/d/beauty/1/0/k/G/haircolor5.JPG www.aaa-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/0...
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Tips:
•To create warm coppery reds
*red orange base color
•To create hot fiery reds
*red-violet or true red colors
•After hair has been colored with permanent haircolor
*use no-lift deposit only on hair shaft and ends
•If gray hair*add ½ to 1 ounce of
neutral/natural color
***gray hair will pick up the pure base of the color, your results could be
bright orange or bright pink
•To brighten:
*use soap cap
*equal parts shampoo and remaining color before rinsing
Haircolor Tips for Brunettes:
•Avoid orange or brassy tones*use cool blue base
Add: Red, orange, or gold tones use “drabber” to reduce red
or gold highlights
•Avoid unwanted brassy tones*do not lighten more than 2 levels above natural color
•Add 1 ounce neutral/natural color to cover gray
•Highlights in brunettes*deep or caramel colored
*less maintenance
than
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FYI Special effects highlighting
•Tone on tone
•Reverse highlighting
•Scrunching
•Shoe-shine
•Balayaging
•Color mapping
•Twisted highlights
*on hair
*on foil
Color mapping
Hji.co.uk
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Q. How much money would a salon quote as a price for a client that enters the salon with green hair?
A. Never quote a price unless you have strand tested each step. Problems can still arise, so I recommend that you give yourself a safety net and say “corrective hair color starts at $_____”.
Q. How much time will you tell your client that a corrective haircolor service will take?
Haircolor Tips for Blondes:
•Popular, profitable, fun
•Possibilities are endless
•Lightening brown to blonde
*underlying unwanted warm tones
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•Covering gray*use Level 7 or darker
•Double-process blonde*pale blonde results
•If high-lift blondes are used on Level 4 or below*results too warm or
brassyi36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/WR82/riker.jpg
If highlights become too blonde
*lowlights or deeper strands foiled in
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Common Haircolor Solutions
•Refresh faded color
*demipermanent
*stay within two levels of your formula
*apply all over-process up to 10 minutes
Green cast:*build up of minerals
~well water~chlorine
*remove the mineral buildup
*apply demipermanent color to neutralize unwanted
color
Add: “drab” describes no red or gold.
Overall Haircolor is Too light:
•Result of incorrect formulation
•Apply no-lift haircolor one-two levels darker
Overall Color is Too Dark:
Add: 1st try Dawn dish detergent to fade or spot lightening
•Determine how much color needs to be removed
•Use haircolor remover
•Process 10 minutes
•Designed to remove artificial pigment
•Once achieved desired color, rinse and shampoo
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Tint back:
What steps will be needed to achieve the natural haircolor?
Restoring Blonde to Natural Haircolor
***called Tint Back
•Can be tricky
•Client may not like it
*will look dark
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•1st soften new growth *level 6 violet base/20 vol*apply to scalp*process 30 minutes, rinse
•Next,*apply no-lift deposit only glaze
-1 oz. Level 8-1 oz. Level 9 red-orange
*to all lightened hair-not to scalp area-process 20 minutes, rinse,
shampoo, towel dry
Finally*no-lift deposit only glaze
*2 oz. Level 6
*apply scalp to ends
*process 20 minutes-check every 5 minutes
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Haircoloring Safety Precautions
*** need 5 for the test
Give patch test
Do not apply if abrasions are present
Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present
Do not brush hair prior to tint-can be picked, avoid scalp
Read and follow manufacturer’s directions
Use cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels
Protect clothing with a chemical drape
Do strand test
Only use glass or plastic to mix product
Do not mix tint/ lightener before ready to use; discard leftover product
Wear gloves
Do not allow color to get in the client’s eyes
Do not overlap tint or lightener
Use mild shampoo
Always wash hands before and after service
Read Caution and Focus On
FYI Haircoloring offers:
*opportunity to exercise your creative impulses
*will bring great pleasure to your clients
*enjoy and appreciate all the learning you need to do, now and in the future
*techniques, fashions,and formulations constantly change
*keep learning new techniques
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