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Chapter 11
Properties of the
Hair and Scalp
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“Any fact facing us is not as important as our
attitude toward it, for that determines our success
or failure. The way you think about a fact may defeat
you before you ever do anything about it. You are
overcome by the fact because you think you are.”
– Norman Vincent Peale
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Objectives
• Name and describe the structures of the hair root.
• List and describe the three layers of the hair shaft.
• Describe the three types of side bonds in the cortex.
• List the factors that should be considered in a hair
analysis.
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• Describe the hair growth process.
• Discuss the types of hair loss and their causes.
• Describe the options for hair loss treatment.
• Recognize hair and scalp disorders commonly seen in
the salon and school and know which can be treated by
cosmetologists.
Objectives (continued)
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Trichology
• Trichology: the scientific study of hair, its diseases, and
its care
• Integument: system includes hair, skin, nails
• Hair: slender, threadlike protein filament that is an
appendage of the scalp and body
–Hair root: lies beneath the scalp
–Hair shaft: projects above the scalp
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Healthy Hair
• Proper nutrients required.
• Hair made up of 20 amino acids. Body produces 11 of the 20.
• Proteins are sources of amino acids.
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Structure of Hair Root
• Follicle
– Distribution
– Growth
• Hair bulb
• Dermal papilla
• Arrector pili
• Sebaceous glands
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Hair Shaft Structure
• Cuticle
• Cortex
• Medulla
Cortex
Cuticle
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Chemical Composition of Hair
• Keratinization: cell maturation
• 90 percent protein: amino acids composed of five
elements
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COHNS Elements
• Carbon – 51 percent
• Oxygen – 21 percent
• Hydrogen – 6 percent
• Nitrogen – 17 percent
• Sulfur – 5 percent
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Amino Acids
• Linked like pop beads
• Peptide or end bonds
• Polypeptide chain
• Helix
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Side Bonds of the Cortex
• Hydrogen bonds
• Salt bonds
• Disulfide bonds
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Bonds of the Hair
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Hair Pigment
• Melanin (tiny grains of pigment)
– Eumelanin (provides brown/black color)
– Pheomelanin (provides yellow to red/ginger color)
• Natural hair color (result of ratio of eumelanin to
pheomelanin)
• Gray hair (absence of melanin)
• Hair color versus haircolor
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Wave Patterns
• Straight hair
• Wavy hair
• Extremely curly hair
• Asian hair
• Caucasian hair
• African-American hair
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Types of Hair
• Vellus (lanugo) hair: short, fine, downy, unpigmented
hair on body.
• Terminal hair: long, thick, pigmented hair found on scalp,
legs, arms, and body.
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Growth Cycles of Hair
• Anagen (growing phase)
• Catagen (transition phase)
• Telogen (resting phase)
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Hair Growth Myths
• Clipping, cutting makes hair grow faster.
• Scalp massage increases growth.
• Gray hair is coarser and more resistant.
• Natural curl determined by race.
• Round cross section is straight.
• Oval cross section is wavy.
• Flat cross section is curly.
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Hair Loss
• Natural shedding: 35 to 40 hairs per day
• Abnormal loss called alopecia.
– Androgenetic alopecia, alopecia areata, postpartum
alopecia
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Hair Loss Perceptions
• Less attractive
• Less assertive
• Less successful
• Less personally likeable
• Older by five years
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Emotional Impact of Severe Hair Loss
• Men
– Negative social and emotional effects; preoccupation
with baldness; effort made to conceal
• Women
– Devastation; anxiety; feelings of helplessness and
unattractiveness
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Androgenetic Alopecia
• Progressive shrinking or miniaturization of terminal hair
• Affects millions of men and women in the United States
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Alopecia Areata
• Sudden loss in round or irregular patches.
• Affects five million people in the United States
• Immune system attacks hair follicles
• Begins with small bald patches
• Occurs in males and females of all ages and races
• No sign of scalp inflammation
• No obvious signs of skin disorder
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Postpartum Alopecia
• Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy
• Growth cycle returns to normal within one year after
delivery of baby.
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Hair Loss Treatments
• Minoxidil (topical treatment)
• Finasteride (oral treatment)
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Hair Disorders
• Canities
– Congenital canities
– Acquired canities
• Ringed hair
• Hypertrichosis
• Trichoptilosis
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• Trichorrhexis nodosa
• Monilethrix
• Fragilitas crinium
Hair Disorders (continued)
Monilethrix
Trichorrhexis nodosa
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Scalp Disorders
• Dandruff
• Pityriasis capitis simplex
• Pityriasis steatoides
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Fungal Parasites
• Tinea
• Tinea capitis
• Tinea favosa
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Parasitic Infections
• Scabies (itch mite)
• Pediculosis capitis (head lice)
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Staphylococci Infections
• Furuncle or boil
• Carbuncle
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Hair Analysis and Texture
• Coarse
• Medium
• Fine
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Testing Hair Texture
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Hair Density
• Low – thin hair
• Medium – average thickness
• High – dense or thick hair
• Average: 2,200 hairs per square inch
– Blond: 140,000
– Brown: 110,000
– Black: 108,000
– Red: 80,000
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Porosity
• Low porosity
• Average porosity
• High porosity
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Testing for Porosity
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Elasticity
• Normal elasticity
• Low elasticity
• Testing for elasticity
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Growth Patterns
• Hair stream (hair flowing in same direction)
• Whorl (hair forms in a circular pattern)
• Cowlick (tuft of hair that stands straight up)
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Dry Hair and Scalp
• Hair appears dull, dry, lifeless.
• Avoid frequent shampooing, strong soaps, detergents, or
products with a high alcohol content.
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Oily Hair and Scalp
• Use clarifying shampoos.
• Eat a well-balanced diet.
• Exercise.
• Shampoo regularly and frequently.
• Avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products with high
alcohol content.
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Summary and Review
• Name and describe the five main structures of the hair
root.
• Name and describe the three layers of the hair.
• Describe the process of keratinization.
• What are polypeptide chains?
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• List and describe the three types of side bonds. Which
are permanent and which are temporary? Which are
strongest and why?
• Name and describe the two types of melanin responsible
for natural hair color.
Summary and Review (continued)
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• Name and describe the two types of hair and their
locations on the body.
• What are the three phases of the hair growth cycle and
what occurs during each?
• What is the reason for normal daily hair loss?
• What are the most common types of abnormal hair loss?
Summary and Review (continued)
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• What are the only two approved hair loss treatments?
• Name the two main types of dandruff and state whether either can be treated in the salon.
• Which scalp and hair disorders cannot be treated in the salon?
• What four factors should be considered in hair analysis?
Summary and Review (continued)
![Page 45: Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp · • Describe the hair growth process. • Discuss the types of hair loss and their causes. • Describe the options for hair loss treatment](https://reader036.vdocuments.us/reader036/viewer/2022070922/5fbaa8c7d041f539ba30cbed/html5/thumbnails/45.jpg)
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