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Brush training for Nail-Art brushes
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Content The historical development of brushes and brush production
Parts of an artist brush and quality relevant attributes
The brush head
The handle
Presentation of different applications and brush shapes
Choosing the right brush with the brush symbols
The right brush care
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The historical development of brushes
The desire to create a nice home inspired mankind to search for suitable colours and tools
Oldest documents of art was discovered in South-West-France and North Spain: cave-paintings of Altamira dated 18000 – 13000 B.C.
First these paitings were considered to be counterfeits.
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The historical development of brushes
During excavations a „painter's studio“ was discovered
Brushes made of bones and animal hair
Different sizes and lengths Paints made of animal fat and blood.
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The historical development of brushes
Brushes counted as on of the oldest tools of mankind
Brushmaking is over all one of the oldest trades
In the past times brushes were made by artists themselves and by their assistants
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The historical development of brushes
About 250 years ago brush-making became a separate trade
The German centres of brush production are in Bechhofen and Nuremberg
The only vocational school for the training to become a brushmaker (3 years) is in Bechhofen
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Pressung / Verklebung
Parts of a brush
hair / bristle
adhesive
Ferrule
Crimping / glueing crimping / glueing
Brush handle
stamp / imprint
hair / bristle
Brush handle
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Material for the brush head Significant for the quality of a brush Basics:
Natural hair Synthetic hair Natural bristle Synthetic bristle
For natural hair and bristle the climate is very significant: The colder the area and weather, the better the quality
bristle
hairshaftroot shaftshaft tip
shaftroot flag
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Natural hair The hair has one individual tip. The surface of the hair is
rough.
Before the hair can be used by the brushmaker, it has to be washed and thoroughly cleaned. The different hair lengths are separated and sold in bundles.
root shaft tip
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Kolinsky
Hair of highest quality and price
Taken from the tail of the red sable Kolinsky
Lives in Siberia and North China
Purchasing price for 1 kg: up to 12.000 €
Tips of the hair very long and thin
High paint holding capacity
High flexibility
Perfect hair for liquid media
Natural hair
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Natural hair
Red sable
Very valuable hair, similar to Kolinsky
Single hair tips not as long as of Kolinsky
Suitable especially for water colour brushes, liners,
Suitable for application of acrylics in nail design
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Other types of natural hair not relevant for nail brushes
• Squirrel hair– Hair taken from the tail of squirrels, very soft
• Ox hair– Hair taken from the ox ear, medium stiffness
• Fitchew hair– Hair taken from the tail of the animal
» Badger » Used for shaving brushes» Pony hair (also know as camel hair) » Taken from the fur of ponys» Goat» Taken from the back of goats» Used for powder and rouge brushes
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Synthetic hair The hair has one individual tip. The surface of the hair is
even and smooth.
Synthetic hair imitates the attributes of natural hair
Available in different diameters and colours
Substituting more and more simple natural hair qualities
The best quality of a synthetic brush is achieved by a perfect mixture of different diameters and qualities
tipshaftroot
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Synthetic hair Originally used for “punched” brushes and simple
school paint brushes (without tip!)
Higher qualities meeting higher requirements were developed in Japan by Toray.
Almost at the same time competitor Teijin
In the meantime various copies from Far East
Most used diameters: 0,07, 0,10 und 0,15mm
Tip treated chemically and /or mechanically
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Synthetic hair Toray
Synthetic hair of very good quality
High elasticity High shape retention Mostly used in golden colour,
also white, black and wine read and various mixtures
Very suitable for gel application
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Synthetic hair
„Toray“ selection gold- Mixture of different diameters, for
every brush size an individual mixture
- Best results in elasticity, shape retention and paint holding capacity
- Used for high quality nail design brushes, mainly gel application
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Synthetic hair
• Toray selection „Tiger Toray“– Toray hair imitating natural
colours – The single fibre is extremely
conical shaped – High shape retention, great
snap – Highest liquid holding capacity
for synthetic filaments
Common Toray Tiger Toray
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Synthetic hair
• Wine red Toray
– Toray hair with different diameters
– Wine red colour
– Excellent stability
– High shape retention and low abrasion
– Perfect for gel application and One-
Stroke-technique
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Synthetic hair• Konex
– Toray imitation– Made in Korea– Often in golden or white colour– Only used in 0,10mm– For economic brushes and basic
equipment
• Other brands for synthetic fibres – Orolux, Sintelux, Jax, Artisan ...
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Natural bristle The bristle has multiple tips = flag. The surface of a natural
bristle is rough.
Before bristle can be used by the brushmaker, it has to be cleaned thoroughly and bleached.
The naturally twisted bristle are bound, cooked and dried
After this process they are separated in the same length
root shaft flag
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Natural bristle Natural hog bristle mostly from China
Especially strong, because pics are grown in free-range husbandry
Mostly taken from the back of the pics, because there it is the longest and strongest
Colours: white bleached, grey, black
For brushes mainly white bleached
Chungking bristle is especially strong
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Synthetic bristle Synthetic bristle for artist brushes can have one or multiple
tip. The surface is rather smooth.
The synthetic bristle used for brushes is mainly prepared in Germany
Basic material is Nylon 612 The synthetic bristle is produced
through different mechanical processes
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Synthetic Bristle - BRISLON®
BRISLON Perfect imitation of natural bristle
with artificial flag Suitable for pastose media Light colour like natural bristle Great capillary effect
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SummaryQuality attributes brush head
Paint and water holding capacity
Elasticity
Strength and length of tips
Shape retention
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Ferrules Seamless ferrules
Made of metal tubes Silver ferrule:nickel-plated brass tube Golden ferrule: nickel-plated & gold-plated
brass tube Aluminium ferrule: made of 99%
pure aluminium
Ferrules with seam Cut out of metal plates Wraped over a mandrel and soldered
Nickel ferrule: made of nickel plated tin or copper Metal ferrule: made of tin
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Handles• Raw material
– Mainly beech and poplar wood from native and renewable forrests in Europe
– Acrylic handle, plastic handle, aluminium handle
• Varnish
– Different colours,
– different surface effects
• Shapes
– Round “English shape”
– Round short
– cylinder shape
– 3-edged-shape
– Straight shape:
acrylic handle or aluminium ZIGMA-Line
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How can I find the right brush ?
• Application
– media gel or acrylics
– technique e.g. one-stroke
– effects e.g. nail art
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Application - regarding media -
• acrylics
• Requires highest quality of red sable and Kolinsky
brushes
• Optimized liquid holding capacity is essential
• Fine but stable tip with good snap is required
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Application- regarding media -
• Gel application:
• Mainly brushes with synthetic fibres:
– Golden Toray – Wine red Toray– Tiger Toray– Synthetic fibre imitating sable– The different fibres should be tested with
the chosen gel
Red sable:– Used for gel in flat shape – Special shapes for NailArt and 3D
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Brush careBrushes should be valuable tools and not through-away products
For a long duration here some advice:
Never let the brush stand too long in water or cleaning detergent. The brush head can become loose or the ferrule can become rusty.
Always clean the brush thoroughly after every use.
Remove colour from brush head and ferrule
Dry moisture with clean tissue or cloth
Hand the brush upside down to dry
Dry the brush with room temperature