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INDEX PAGE Thank You Letter……………………………………………….. 2 General Information & Recommended Reading…..………… 3 Complimentary Memberships…………………………………. 5 Training Clubs…………………………………………………. 5 Vet Details and Microchipping………………………………… 8 Tick Paralysis………………………………………………….. 9 What Not to feed your dog…………………………………… 10 Toilet Training………………………………………………… 12 Principles of Positive Training…………………..………….. 13 Exercise ……………………… 15 Nutrition ……………………………………………… 16 How Kids Should Not Interact with Dogs 17 How Kids Should Interact with Dogs 18 Body Language Poster 19 Top Ten Tips to set your new dog up for success 20

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DoggieRescue.com Registered office: 8 Chiltern Rd Ingleside 2101

ACN 098 918 471 ABN 49 098 918 471 Postal Address: 8 Chiltern Rd Ingleside 2101 Phone: (02) 9486 3133 Adoption Centre: 2 McCowan Rd crn Bloodwood Rd Ingleside Fax: (02) 9486 3136

Mobile: 0429 044 484 Email: Monika@DoggieRescue.com

THANK YOU Dear ___________ Thank you for adopting _________ and giving him/her a family to belong to. As you probably already know _____________ came from Renbury Pound/Blacktown Pound as an unclaimed or surrendered dog after 7 days. If you have any problems settling ____________ into your home please feel free to give us a call. We have spent many years working with abandoned waifs and know that some need very special care. As a DoggieRescue.com dog, he/she receives Vouchers to a number of dog training clubs (please see page 5) Additionally we have taken the opportunity to enclose some material on dog training courtesy of Hornsby Dog Training Club. A copy of our magazine is also enclosed for your perusal. Thank you for giving an abandoned orphan a second chance in life. Monika Biernacki

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HOW TO BE YOUR DOG’S GENTLE LEADER Like children, dogs need a fair and consistent carer. Good leadership will earn your dog’s respect and help him to feel secure. Here are a few ways to establish leadership: 1. The Leader Controls The Resources. Just as parents control allowance, curfew and use of the

car, you should control all the “good stuff” when it comes to your dog. Start with food and play: Food is an incredibly valuable resource. As such, it should come from you, not from that round thing that is always magically full! Feed once daily, rather than leaving food down. If your dog does not eat after ten minutes, pick the food up and put it away. Most dogs, even those previously free-fed, will quickly adapt to the new routine; no dog will starve himself. (If your dog is tiny, hypoglycemic, or has medical issues, check with your vet before switching to scheduled feedings.) For dogs with severe leadership issues, or to kick-start your program, hand-feed meals (a few pieces at a time) for two weeks. Have your dog sit, shake, or down to get each handful of food. Control toys and games. Leave your dog with a few toys, but reserve the really special ones for when you are present. Bring them out periodically and play with your dog. Now you are also the source of all fun! Note: Playing tug is fine as long as you control the game, and your dog knows “Drop it” (aka “Out”). Bring out the toy; initiate tug. Periodically freeze, followed by saying, “Drop it.” When your dog releases, wait a beat, say, “Take it” and resume the game. (If at any time teeth touch skin, say, “Too bad!” and put the toy away.) When you have finished playing, put the toy away out of your dog’s reach.

2. Put Your Dog on a Learn to Earn Program. That means he must do something for you in order to

earn anything that is valuable to him. If your dog wants to be petted, teach him to sit first. Then pet. Have him sit (or do another behaviour he knows) before meals, treats, walks, tossing the ball, and anything else he finds valuable. Make training fun!

3. Furniture Privileges – Yes or No? If your dog will get down when asked, no problem! For dogs

who are unruly (which really means un-trained) and / or those who won’t get down when asked, no couch/bed privileges until leadership is better established, and then only when invited. Teaching an “off’ is necessary.

4. Control the Space. If your dog zigzags in front as you walk, crowds you as you sit, or otherwise

intrudes on your space, that’s not very polite! Leaders control space. For zigzaggers, keep your feet firmly on the floor and shuffle right on through. Your dog will learn to move when legs approach. If you are standing and your dog crowds you, use your lower body to gently move him away. If you are sitting, fold your arms and gently move him away using your upper arm or forearm—do not speak or look at him as you do so. (Teaching “Off” is also helpful.) At doorways (until your dog has learned to “Wait” or “Back up”), either push your dog aside gently with your lower body or step in front to block his path. It is not necessary that you always pass through doorways first, but it should be your choice, and shoving is never acceptable!

5. Training. Practice obedience exercises and incorporate them into your everyday life. Sit for pats,

sitting opens doors, lunging closes them. Sit before being let out of the car. Sit before unclipping lead etc. Keep practice sessions short and frequent.

6. Handling. Teach your dog to accept handling. Do daily massage, including paws, ears and

mouth. This practice also makes for easier groomer/veterinary visits and alerts you to any physical abnormalities. (If your dog has issues about being handled, address them with a trainer’s help.)

7. Good leaders are not bullies! Teach your dog what you want him TO do rather than rousing on

him verbally when he does something you don’t like. If he does something wrong, show him the right thing to do! If he makes a mistake, forgive and move on. Never use scruff-shakes, jerking, hitting or other harsh physical corrections or punishments. A loud verbal punishment can be very punishing to a scared of soft natured dog. Use praise and rewards to let your dog know when he is doing the right thing. Above all, be a kind and patient leader.

8. Libby Young 0415 715 426 The Sound Hound www.thesoundhound.com.au

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Leadership Versus Dominance

by Nicole Wilde, CPDT

I recently attended a lecture given by a self-styled “dog psychologist” on how to improve your relationship with your dog. One of the main points made was that dogs don’t need a loving leader, but rather, a strong leader who uses “domination.” Owners were advised to use the alpha roll (forcing the dog on his back, holding him down and staring until he submits) to “show the dog who’s boss.” I was saddened to hear this regurgitation of the old, strong-arm techniques in this enlightened day and age. The truth is, you can be both a strong and a loving leader. Techniques like alpha rolls and scruff shakes are purportedly based on the behavior of the dog’s ancestor, the wolf. Studies done in the wild years ago reported that wolves use the alpha roll to discipline and control other pack members. In later years, those studies were disproved. What ethologists observed was that when a wolf wanted to dominate another, he would “muzzle pin,” that is, place his own muzzle, mouth wide open, teeth bared, gently over the muzzle of the other. The pinned wolf would then roll over and submit voluntarily. That’s an important distinction. In fact, if a wolf forcefully slams another to the ground, teeth around his neck, staring hard, chances are he means to kill that animal. Is that really the message you want to send to your dog? If your dog has aggression issues, using force will only make the problem worse. It may look for the moment as though the issue has been solved, because the dog stops the aggressive display immediately. Of course he does; you’re physically stronger, and you’re threatening him. His reaction is an act of self-preservation. In reality, you’re only suppressing the aggression, and causing stress that will assuredly resurface—and it won’t be pretty. It may reappear as other seemingly unrelated behavior problems, or even more intense aggression. Besides, what happens if one family member uses force, but the others are not as physically or psychologically capable of doing so? I can tell you, because that’s the case with many families I’m called in to work with. When the person using the force-based techniques (often the adult male in the household) is away, the dog reacts to the ones he might have a chance of overpowering—usually the wife or kids. Another fascinating fact from the world of wolves is that the “alpha” or top-ranking wolf does not need to prove a thing. Good alphas rule with a calm air of dignity. They are assertive when necessary, but are not bullies. At Wolf Park, a research and educational facility in Indiana, those alpha wolves who ruled with a heavy paw were quickly deposed by other pack members. Those who ruled wisely ruled longer. It’s actually the middle-ranking, wanna-be alphas who do all the squabbling. They have something to prove. You shouldn’t. So remember: Be kind, be fair, be consistent. Be a good leader. Your dog will love and respect you for it.

© 2001 Nicole Wilde. All rights reserved.

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RECOMMENDED READING Dog Behaviour “The Culture Clash” Jean Donaldson “The Other End of the Leash” Patricia McConnell Ph.D “Don’t Shoot The Dog” Karen Pryor “A Modern Dogs Life” Paul McGreevy “In Defence of Dogs” John Bradshaw “How to Speak Dog” Stanley Coren Body Language “Dog Language” An Encyclopedia of Canine Behaviour Roger Abrantes “On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals Turid Rugaas The Science of Behaviour “Dogs” A new understanding of canine Origin, Behaviour and Evolution Ray & Lorna Coppinger “Inside of a Dog “ What dogs see, smell and know Alexandra Horowitz “Oh Behave!” Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinder Jean Donaldson Training “How to Train a Superdog” Gwen Bailey “Train Your Dog Like a Pro” Jean Donaldson (Book & DVD) :Clever Dog” Gwen Bailey Fearful/Shy Dogs Help for Your Fearful Dog Nicole Wilde CPDT Over-Reactvity Feisty Fido – Help for the leash-aggressive dog Patricia B McConnell Ph.D Learning Theory Excel-erated Learning Pamela Reid Anxiety / Separateion Related Behaviour Don’t Leave Me Nicole Wilde Help for Your Shy Dog Deborah Wood Calming Stressed or Overexcited Dogs “Stress in Dogs” How dogs show stress, and what you can do to help Scholz & Reinhardt Puppy Behaviour & Training The Perfect Puppy Gwen Bailey Diet & Nutrition Give Your Dog a Bone Dr Ian Billinghurst Grow Your Pup With Bones Dr Ian Billinghurst The Barf Diet Dr Ian Billinghurst

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TRAINING CLUB MEMBERSHIPS FOLLOWING THE ADOPTION OF A DOG FROM MONIKA’S DOGGIE RESCUE, THE BEARER OF THIS LETTER IS ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING: 1. 12 months Complimentary Membership (this offer does not apply to existing club

members or those re-joining)

AGILITY DOG CLUB of NSW Castle Hill Showground – Carrington Road, Castle Hill Ph: (02) 9654 1951 * Have fun with your dog every Thursday night * Agility Training is fun and exciting for both you and your dog

2. 12 months Complimentary Membership

SYDNEY ALL BREEDS DOG TRAINING CLUB Inc. Stanley St Concord Ph: (02) 9713 1437 *Affiliated with the Royal NSW Canine Council Ltd

3. Free Joining Fee

NORTHERN SUBURBS TRAINING CLUB Inc St.Ives Showground-Mona Vale Rd, St.Ives Ph: (02) 9416 6080 * Dog obedience training classes and agility classes * Held in community club atmosphere of friendship and fun - both for dogs and owners! * All classes conducted by qualified experienced instructors * Puppy classes – 6 week course * Basic and Advanced Obedience * Ku-ring-gai K9 Community Obedience Awards * Annual membership $10 +only $2 per lesson (includes tea/coffee after class) * Club Newsletter * Please note: all dogs must be fully immunised +2 weeks (Certificate required)

4. Reduced Membership Fee to $5

PIONEER DOG TRAINING SCHOOL INC. 79 Brisbane Ave Umina NSW 2257 Contact: Lyn Whyte President Ph: (02) 4342 6026

5. Two Weeks Complimentary Lessons

SURF STORMERS FLYBALL DOGS Killarney Vale (Central Coast) Ph: 0407 435 699 www.surfstormers.org * Relay retrieval races where dogs get to chase, jump, catch & compete * Fun for dogs of all shapes, sizes – and their owners too! * Small group of fellow dog lovers who enjoy quality time with their doggie pals * Please note: dogs must be non-aggressive & have basic obedience skills

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TRAINING CLUBS – CONTACT INFORMATION

PUPPY CLASSES TEL Nos.

Ashfield Veterinary Clinic 9716-8270 Bankstown Veterinary Hospital 9790-1101 Balmain Veterinary Hospital 9810-7544 Berowra Veterinary Clinic 7456-2526 Brookvale The Sound Hound Libby Young 0415 715426 Chatswood & Roseville Vet Clinics 9411-6547 Eastwood-Brush Farm Dog Training Club 9869-1917 Elanora Heights (Hanna Moore) 9913-7242 Enfield Veterinary Hospital 9747-3999 Figtree Veterinary Clinic-Andy Robertson 9428-4700 Five Dock Veterinary Hospital 9713-7364 Gordon Vet Hospital-Jennifer Daniel 9498-3000 Hornsby Vet Hospital 9477-1233 Kenthurst Wraysbury School for Dogs 9654-1951 Mosman Vet Hospital 9960 2856 North Ryde Vet Hospital -Jennifer Daniel 9888-1833 Roseville -The Ark Vet Hospital 9411-3848 Lane Cove Riverview Animal Hospital 9428 3375 Seaforth Veterinary Hospital 9949-1288 Warriewood-Pittwater Animal Hospital 9913-7979

DOG OBEDIENCE TRAINING Northern Beaches – The Sound Hound – Libby Young 0415 715426 Arightway Dog Treining – Jenny Wright 0415 394644 Blacktown and Marayong-Blacktown Kennel & Training Club 9622-8663 Castle Hill/Strathfield/Canada Bay-Anne W Fitzgerald (private & class) 9894-4716 Castle Hill-Paws 4 Fun 9980-5030 Castle Hill-Hills District Kennel Club 9652-1764 Eastwood-Brush Farm Dog Training Club Inc. 9484-3516 Frenchs Forest-Warringah Shepherd Dog Training Club 9416-7047 Hawkesbury Dog Agility Club 4575-2222 Hornsby Dog Training Club 9990-7301 Hustville All Breeds Dog Training Club 9771 2582 Lindfield-Metropolitan Mid-Week Dog Training Club 9873-2304 Manly – The Sound Hound Private Training & Group Classes 0415 715426 Manly Vale - K9 Unleashed Agility 0425 274219 Manly-District Kennel & Dog Training Club • Deep Creek 9999-1586 • Mosman Oval 9960-3637 Mosman – All Ages All Levels – Reid Park 10am Tuesdays 0411 390927 Mosman – All Ages All Levels – Barracks Vet 8:30 am Saturdays 0405 291 339 North Shore & Northern Beaches-Hanna Moore (private lessons) 9913-7242 Randwick-Eastern Suburbs Dog Training 0412-645154 St.Ives-Canine Good Citizens Course 9416-4278 St.Ives-Get SMART Dogs (evening classes) 9499-2119 Strathfield-Western Suburbs Training 9570-9144 Warringah-German Shepherds Dog League 9905-5287 Warringah-Velma Violet Harris (dog behaviour consultant/trainer) 9418-4343 St George Dog Training Club 9750-3776

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VET DETAILS & MICROCHIPPING MICROCHIP REGISTRATION OF YOUR DOG Dog registration is compulsory under the Companion Animals Act and your dog is eligible for lifetime registration that is NSW wide. Many DoggieRescue.com dogs are also microchipped Australia wide under the Australian Animals Registry. Cost of life registration under the NSW system for a desexed dog is $40.00 or $15.00 for a pensioner. DoggieRescue.com sends your dog’s microchipping information to your local council & you will be notified directly by your local council of registration details. You take the form council sends you, together with a copy of the desexing certificate and the prescribed fee to your local council for processing. At this time you can change the name of the dog & any other pertinent details. VACCINATION Vaccination papers for your dog are enclosed. Adult dogs should be vaccinated annually. __________ was last vaccinated on _________________ with a C5 vaccination. The next annual vaccination is due _________. Puppies under 16 weeks come with 3 C5 vaccination & due dates are on the vaccination card. FLEAS Flea control throughout the year is the most effective way to reduce the flea population explosion during summer months. Your pet has been treated with Advocate or Revolution which kills not only adult fleas but kills flea larvae in the pet’s surroundings as well. It is safe to even use on nursing mothers. _____________was last treated on ________________ and is due _________________. GASTROINTESTINAL WORMS Your dog has been wormed using Drontal Allwormer which kills all worms in dogs. Adult dogs should be wormed every 3 months. Puppies should be wormed at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks, 4 months, 5 months and 6 months. If you are using Advocate, Drontal is not needed. HEARTWORM If your dog is an adult it has been tested for heartworm and the test was negative. ___________ is now on monthly heartworm prevention treatment. Your dog has been given Advocate or Revolution to prevent heartworm. Advocate or Revolution gives dual protection from fleas and heartworm in a monthly spot-on treatment. _____________ had his/her last monthly treatment on ___________ and next treatment is due ______________. Other products are on the market to cover these aspects of your dog’s health. Please consult your veterinarian for details. If you have any queries or worries about your pet please don’t hesitate to call-Monika Biernacki.

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WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT TICK POISONING PREVENTION Daily search of the animal after removal of the collar, feeling with the fingertips, paying particular attention to the head, neck and shoulder areas. This gives three chances of finding and removing the tick before it can harm the animal. Dipping or spraying the animal regularly in the worst months of the year, viz: Spring and early summer. Your veterinary surgeon can advise you on effective dipping compounds, as ticks can acquire immunity to certain chemicals. Certain flea powders have a repellent action on ticks, and their use, or flea collars worn by the animal, reduces the risk of a tick attaching. IF A PARALYSIS TICK IS FOUND ON YOUR ANIMAL, IT SHOULD BE REMOVED IMMEDIATELY USING A PAIR OF TWEEZERS. AS SOON AS THE TICK HAS BEEN REMOVED, IT IS STRONGLY ADVISABLE TO CONTACT YOUR VETERINARIAN WITHOUT DELAY. The Dog Tick (Ixodes Holocyclus) occurs only in Australia, mainly in the eastern coastal strip, its distribution roughly corresponding to that of the bandicoot, its natural host. It can prove fatal to a number of species including man, but dogs and cats are its most common victims. The tick has to be attached to the skin, engorging for three days before it commences to inject its poison. SYMPTOMS The earliest signs are often dullness, vomiting, change in bark, a grunt in breathing, soon followed by a stagger in the hind legs. If left untreated this loss of control extends up the spine to affect the front legs, then the neck muscles, and finally the breathing centre in the hindbrain is paralysed and death occurs. The swallowing ability of the dog is often affected, so that food, fluids or medicine given by mouth usually finish up in the lungs causing pneumonia and death. Thus all treatment has to be given by hypodermic injection, and the early injection of ANTI-TICK SERUM favours recovery. Secondary symptoms such as pneumonia, dehydration, heart failure and many others occur during the course of this disease, and are usually the cause of death; therefore nursing under veterinary supervision is of paramount importance. Once tick poisoning is suspected home treatment should never be attempted for the foregoing reasons. Until the patient can be placed under veterinary care, heat, excitement and stress of any kind should be avoided, and food and water withheld. TREATMENT The most important drug used to treat dogs with tick poisoning is CANINE ANTI-TICK SERUM. This is a purified blood extract taken from dogs made hyper-immune to ticks. Thus their blood contains anti-bodies, which are chemical substances produced by the body to fight poisons. The serum, containing anti-bodies is injected into the blood stream of the poisoned dog so that the anti-bodies will immediately commence neutralizing the toxins produced by the tick. ANTI-TICK SERUM Most serum used for treating humans, such as anti-snake venoms, tetanus serum etc., is produced using the horse the donor animal. Donations of a gallon or more of blood can be taken without any ill effects, and the horse can be used frequently throughout the year. The dog is the only suitable donor for producing Anti-tick serum, can only safely donate a small amount of blood, and can only be used for a few months every year. To produce an effective antidote for the paralysis, the serum has to be concentrated; hence its production is an expensive process. With adequate vigilance you can avoid tick poisoning in your pet, and the expensive treatment necessary to save its life.

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WHAT NOT TO FEED YOUR DOG

Many common ‘people’ foods are actually harmful or can even be fatal to dogs. Some of these (listed below) will surprise you, while others are things you may already know. Some of these foods need to be avoided altogether, while some are safe in small amounts. If you use this list as a guide it will help you keep your new dog happy, healthy and safe. If in doubt you should always consult your veterinarian. Chocolate We’ve all heard ‘chocolate is bad for dogs’, but many people do not realise how unsafe it can be. Chocolate contains thiobromine which is very toxic to dogs and causes liver damage. The darker the chocolate, the more dangerous it is, however any chocolate in large enough amounts can cause death. For example, as little as 250-500g of milk chocolate, or 30-60g of cooking chocolate can kill a 5kg dog. Signs of overdose include excessive salivation, neurological symptoms (seizures shuddering/shaking/twitching/convulsing), diarrhoea and vomiting – these can lead to a coma and death if left untreated. These symptoms may not show up for several hours, but can lead to death within 24 hours. Chocolate overdose is life threatening and needs to be treated as an emergency. Be sure to check the label on any ‘dog chocolate’ to make sure that it is made with carob instead of real cocoa. Onions These contain thiosulfate, which will destroy red blood cells and can cause anaemia, weakness, and breathing difficulty. Avoid feeding large quantities of onion or small quantities over time as it will build up in the dog’s system. Large amounts of garlic cause the same problems as onions, as well as chives, as they belong to the same family of plants. If your dog is showing signs of anaemia or has overdosed on onions, you need to see your vet urgently. Grapes and raisins/sultanas These can cause kidney failure in dogs. As little as a handful of grapes or sultanas can kill a dog. If the dog doesn't eat enough at one time to be fatal, he/she can be severely damaged by eating just a few grapes or raisins regularly. Macadamia nuts As few as SIX macadamia nuts can cause paralysis in dogs. Dogs with macadamia poisoning will appear anxious and have difficulty moving their rear legs. Other symptoms include pain (especially in the legs), depression and vomiting. Unshelled macadamias can also cause bowel blockages if eaten. If your dog has consumed macadamia nuts you need to take him/her to your vet urgently. The paralysis will generally disappear after several days of treatment. Walnuts and cashew nuts are also poisonous to dogs. Tomatoes Green/unripe tomatoes contain solanine, which can be toxic even in small amounts. Ripe tomatoes are very high in selenium, which is toxic in large doses. Ripe tomatoes are harmless in small amounts. If you have tomato plants in your garden make sure you keep your dog away from them (tomato plants, except for the tomato itself, are also poisonous to humans). Cooked bones Chicken wings, necks, beef and other bones are safe to feed in moderation, as long as they are raw. When bones are cooked (particularly chicken bones) they can splinter and cause damage to your dogs digestive system, either by tearing or becoming stuck. This can be very painful for your dog and lead to serious health complications. Whenever possible your dog should be supervised while eating bones. Caffeine Caffeine (from coffee, coffee grounds, tea, or tea bags) stimulates the central nervous and cardiac systems, and can cause vomiting, restlessness, heart palpitations, and even death within hours. Artificial Sweeteners Diet products containing the sweetener Xylitol can cause a sudden drop in blood sugar, resulting in depression, loss of coordination and seizures. Unless treatment is given quickly, the dog could die.

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Fruit seeds Apple seeds, cherry pits, peach pits, pear pips, plums pits, peaches, and apricot pits contain a small amount of cyanide, which is poisonous. Smaller seeds (such as apple seeds) will generally pass through your dog’s system undigested, but if they are allowed to chew on larger seeds it can be harmful. Larger seeds may become lodged in your dogs digestive tract and cause serious health problems. Fatty and Salty Foods Ham and bacon, as well as other things like turkey fat contain too much fat and too much salt, and can cause pancreatitis (inflammation of the liver) and kidney problems. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhoea and a painful abdomen. Dogs that eat salty food may also drink too much water and develop a life-threatening condition called bloat (most common in large breeds of dogs with large chests and thin waists). This is where the stomach fills up with gas and within several hours may twist, causing death. If you suspect your dog has pancreatitis or bloat you need to go to your veterinarian urgently. Liver and liver treats Raw liver or too much cooked liver can lead to vitamin A toxicity. This can cause deformed bones, excessive bone growth on the elbows and spine, weight loss, and anorexia. If you must feed your dog canned food, be sure to check that it does not contain too much liver. Plants around your garden Some garden plants can also be toxic if eaten by your dog. Poinsettias are mildly toxic to dogs – while most dogs who eat them will experience no symptoms at all, some dogs will drool or vomit after eating them. Holly causes intense nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea. Mistletoe causes vomiting, diarrhoea, neurological problems and heart failure. Wild mushrooms can cause abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting, diarrhoea, convulsions, coma, or death. For a list of plants that are known to be toxic to pets, visit: http://www.sniksnak.com/plants-toxic.html For a list of “Dog Safe” plants to add to your garden, visit http://www.sniksnak.com/plants.html Toxic substances The following substances are commonly found around the home or in your neighbourhood. Great care should be taken at all times to keep your dog from coming into contact with the following substances: • “1080” fox baits • Alcohol • Anti-freeze • Cigarettes and nicotine • Cleaning products • Fertiliser • Insecticide • Lead and products or items containing lead • Paracetamol (“Panadol”) • Petrol, paint thinner etc • Prescription medication (unless prescribed by a veterinarian, specifically for your dog) • Rat Bait (or rats who have died from rat poison) • Snail bait If your dog has swallowed or inhaled any of these poisons it is important that you contact your veterinarian immediately to arrange treatment.

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TOILET TRAINING AND HELPLINE SUPPORT

Toilet Training

A dog cannot possibly understand that your entire house is the pack's living area to be kept clean - so do not give him full access to your home to allow toileting in inappropriate locations. Toilet training is a fairly straight-forward process but we have to be vigilant in the early stages to prevent accidents from happening. Our aim is to minimise the number of mistakes and to reward toileting in the appropriate location. If you follow the program below, your dog will not have the opportunity to make mistakes and you will constantly be rewarding the correct behaviour, greatly speeding up the process. Restrict their access around the house when you are not watching them 100% by a combination of any of the following means:

1. crate training; 2. condition the puppy to accept being placed in a small room such as the laundry or bathroom

(where accidents can be easily cleaned up); 3. condition the puppy to be on lead, secured to the leg of a table; or 4. give the puppy your full and undivided attention.

The purpose of confinement (a crate, laundry, tie ups) is to prevent any mistakes from occurring around the house when you cannot watch your dog. Doing this also inhibits elimination, since dogs naturally do not want to soil their sleeping areas. This means your dog will want to go immediately upon release from confinement- especially since hurrying to the toilet area will jiggle their bladder and bowls. Take them out on lead, every hour (puppies), once every two hours for adult dogs, and allow three minutes to eliminate. If they oblige, REWARD WITH HIS FAVOURITE FOOD TREATS! The treat must be delivered within half a second, to three seconds once they finish. Praise them during the act. If they do not go, take them back inside for another hour (30 mins for puppies) and repeat the exercise. Keep treats out near the toileting area. Having them on lead will ensure they cannot sneak under bushes and go where you are unable to see and reward them. Our aim is to minimise the number of mistakes and to reward toileting in the appropriate location. Keeping the container of treats at the toileting location can assist in reminding the puppy that an opportunity for a reward is now available.

Never rouse on, yell at or smack your dog for going inside the house, they will only learn that going to the toilet in the presence of a human is bad news, and will become sneaky peers. If they do go in the house, clean it up and move on. It means you were not watching your dog. In addition to this: • Watch for times that your dog will need to toilet; after meal or a big drink; upon waking up; after a play session; and any other time in between! Ensure that the puppy is guided to the correct toilet location at these times. • Look for pre-toileting behaviours such as sniffing, circling, etc (it will vary from one puppy to the next), rush the puppy to the correct toilet location, keeping him close to floor level so that he can see how to get there himself. • Thoroughly clean the areas where the puppy has had accidents. The scent of previous droppings will stimulate a puppy to stop and toilet then and there. Use this fact to your advantage by collecting up any droppings and placing them in the grassy area where you would like the puppy to toilet - he will believe that this area is his chosen toilet.

Should you have any questions, please do not hesitate to give me a call.

Libby Young 0415 715 426 The Sound Hound Dog Behaviour & Training

www.thesoundhound.com.au

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PRINCIPALS OF POSITIVE TRAINING Training should be an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog. The more you understand about how your dog thinks and learns, the more effectively you can communicate. Clear

communication means successful training and good behaviour—with no need for coercion or physical corrections.

1. Behaviour that is rewarded is more likely to reoccur. In other words, dogs do what works for them. If your dog was given praise and a cookie the last time he sat, he is more likely to sit again the

next time you ask. If he knows that jumping up on you will earn your attention, he’ll keep jumping, as your attention is a reward. This powerful principle is a key component of reward-based training.

2. Dogs learn by association. When training, it is important that the reward closely follow the desired behaviour. For example, when teaching your dog to sit, the praise and treat should be given when his rear touches the floor, not after he’s stood up again. On the other side of the coin,

reprimanding your dog for something he may have done hours, or even minutes ago (for example, you come home to find your slippers shredded) is pointless; your dog won’t associate your yelling

with what he’s done, and if it happens often enough, he may begin to fear your arrival home, as you’re always angry for no reason he can fathom.

3. Reward behaviours you want, rather than punishing behaviours you don’t want. Most of us are so accustomed to noticing “mistakes” our dogs make that it seems strange to notice and reward “good” behaviours. For example, your dog barks, so you yell at him to be quiet. Sure, a barking dog

is hard to ignore. But what about when he’s calmly lying down? Most of us never consider rewarding calm, so the dog only gets rewarded with our attention (even yelling is attention) when he is doing

something we don’t like. Naturally, he keeps doing those things! If, on the other hand, he gets attention for being calm, he will be calm more often. Make it a point to catch and reward your dog for doing something right. If your dog is engaged in a behaviour that cannot be ignored (such as

chewing the table leg), interrupt with a sharp verbal, “Eh-eh!” then lead him away from the area, ask him to sit, and give him a chew toy or other activity to keep him busy.

4. Extinction. If a behaviour is ignored, it will eventually extinguish on its own. Imagine you are trying to buy a soda from a vending machine. You insert your money, press the button, and wait. Nothing happens. You press the button more forcefully, and try a few others as well. Still nothing.

You jangle the change lever. No soda, no change. You might even become so angry that you shake or kick the machine. All that effort and still no soda! Grumbling to yourself, you give up and leave. In

this example, the soda-seeking behaviour extinguished because there was no payoff, no reward. Kicking or shaking the machine is an example of an extinction burst. What that means for your dog is that if you ignore an unwanted behaviour such as jumping or barking, before your dog gives up, the

behaviour may actually escalate. The important thing is to wait it out rather than giving in; it will eventually stop, and will stop even sooner the next time around.

5. Positive reinforcement is something the dog wants. Just because you think those expensive new treats are a great reward doesn’t mean they are. If your dog turns his nose up at them, they’re

not much of a reward in his mind. A reward can be petting, verbal praise, a throw of the ball, a quick game with a favourite toy, sniffing the grass, or saying hello to another dog. The sky’s the limit. Consider which things your dog finds rewarding, and use them.

6. Jackpot! The jackpot is something really special, head and shoulders above the usual reward. Your dog can earn this amazing prize by doing something especially wonderful. While it’s

always important to use training treats your dog likes, save the Super-Yummy, Best-Thing-In-The-

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World as a jackpot. Here’s an example of how to use the jackpot: In teaching Sit, your dog obviously understands what is expected, but doesn’t sit very quickly. When you give the sit cue, he watches for a moment, then languidly lowers his butt to the floor. You can almost hear him sigh, “Oh, okay, if I

must.” However, on the fourth repetition, he responds immediately; butt hits floor in record time. Jackpot! You immediately give him a few pieces of the jackpot treat one after another, along with

effusive verbal praise. (You can also give a jackpot by tossing a shower of the usual treat.) Jackpotting makes an impression. It calls your dog’s attention to the fact that he’s done something really great. He is therefore more likely to perform the behaviour better than usual the next time. A

jackpot doesn’t have to be food, either. If your dog lives for a toss of the ball, use that as your jackpot. Know your dog and use what works for him.

7. Find an alternate behaviour. When you want your dog to stop doing something, give him something else to do instead—that is, something that is incompatible with the behaviour you don’t

want. For example, if your dog jumps up on you, have him sit instead; he can’t sit and jump at the same time. Does he chew on furniture? Give him an appropriate chew toy instead; he can’t chew items on both at once. Try this: Take a piece of paper, and draw a line vertically down the center. On

the left side, list all the things your dog does that you’d like him to stop doing. On the right, next to each behaviour, write down a behaviour he could do instead. Once you start thinking about things in this way, you’ll be surprised at the creative solutions you come up with—and how needless

punishment really is. 8. Raise criteria gradually in small increments, building upon each success. Simply put, that

means don’t expect too much too soon. Build small steps to get from Point A to Point B. For example, when teaching your dog to stay, start with a three-second stay. If successful, try for a stay

that is two seconds longer. If the five-second stay is too much (your dog breaks the stay), don’t correct him. You’ve asked for too much too soon. Simply go back to three seconds and start again, then build slowly, one second at a time. Any time your dog does not perform an exercise correctly,

ask yourself if you have raised the criteria too quickly. Go back to the point at which your dog was last successful, then build gradually. Raising criteria gradually eliminates the need for correction by setting your dog up to succeed.

9. If trained correctly, behaviour is not contingent on food being present. This is something that

many people who are opposed to food-reward training don’t understand. If you phase treats out gradually and begin to substitute lots of real-life rewards (like petting, games, the door opening for a walk), your dog will perform the desired behaviours even when you don’t have food with you. We

use plenty of treats at first to teach and practice new behaviours. Eventually, a schedule of random (unpredictable) reinforcement, along with real-life rewards, will ensure that the good behaviour continues. You wouldn’t want to stop getting paid once you got better at your job, so don’t forget to

reward your dog sometimes for a job well done! Training should be fun!

- Keep training sessions short; three to five sessions of three to five minutes a day is fine. - Focus on one new behaviour per session.

- Keep an upbeat attitude when training. Don’t train when you’re cranky! - End each training session on a successful note. Did your dog just do ten good sits, with the last one being really great? End the session there.

- As each behaviour is learned, incorporate it into your daily routine as often as possible. Above all, BE KIND TO YOUR DOG AND HAVE FUN!

Libby Young 0415 715 426 www.thesoundhound.com.au

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EXERCISE Engaging in physical exercise triggers a chain of chemical reactions in the body and brain that promote a feeling of calm. The mechanism works in essentially the same way in both dogs and people. Have you ever noticed how relaxed your dog is after a long walk? Achieving that calm, relaxed state is important, and doubly so for anxious, fearful, “hyperactive,” or aggressive dogs. How much exercise your dog needs depends on his breed, size, age, and physical condition. Most healthy adolescent Labrador Retrievers, for example, would benefit from at least an hour of exercise a day. If your dog is not accustomed to regular exercise, start slowly. Build duration and intensity gradually, and don’t count on your dog to tell you when he is tired. Walks: Daily walks allow for not only physical exertion, but mental stimulation in the form of stimulating scents. Sniffing where other dogs have left their marks is like reading a community bulletin board: Hmm, an adolescent male has moved into the neighborhood. Aah, Fifi was here! These daily outings provide a great excuse for you to get out and exercise as well. Hikes: Like walks, but in a fabulous doggy amusement park! Hikes provide the opportunity to romp over dirt trails and play among shady trees, checking out natural scents along the way. Keep initial outings brief, and tailor hikes to your dog’s comfort level and physical capabilities. Follow posted rules and always be aware of your surroundings. If your dog is fearful or reactive with other dogs or people, keep him on leash and hike when you are less likely to encounter others. Plan outings when the weather is cool, and always bring along water for both of you. Outdoor Play: If your dog will retrieve, toss a ball or favorite fetch toy in your backyard. If your dog is reliable off-leash (he will come every time you call) and is dog-friendly, playing with other dogs at the dog park is a great form of exercise. (Monitor all interactions; not all other dogs are friendly). If you’re lucky enough to have a swimming pool, let your dog swim! Swimming is great cardiovascular exercise, and strengthens muscles without stressing joints (especially good for dogs with arthritis or other joint-related conditions). Assuming good physical health, other aerobic options include jogging with your dog, or having him run while you ride your bike. Consider dog sports such as agility, tracking, and Rally O (a gentler form of competition obedience). If your dog loves chasing a ball, find a beach, dam or lagoon where they allow dogs and throw the ball in the water for them to swim out and retrieve (this is my absolute favourite way to exercise my dogs). Indoor Exercise: Tug is a great game that can be played with a rope toy, and has the added benefit of building up a dogs confidence. A prerequisite is that your dog understands “Leave”—to release the object he is holding. Start playing, then periodically freeze and ask your dog to “Drop it.” When he does, pause, then resume the game. If your dog’s teeth touch your skin at any point say, “Too bad!” and put the toy away. Fetch is another great indoor game if you have the space. And don’t forget recreational chewing! It provides exercise for your dog’s jaws, is an excellent outlet for excess energy, and has the important benefit of being a canine stress-reliever. Appropriate chew toys should always be available. If you’re too busy: Consider doggy daycare, a neighbor who might like to switch off “play dates,” or a professional dogwalker, friend, or student who will come by and walk your dog. Check with your vet before starting your dog on any exercise program or sport. Young puppies and dogs with injured or weak shoulders, knees, ankles, or hips should not engage in any activity that involves jumping, or compete in any strenuous sport Libby Young 0415 715 426 The Sound Hound Dog Behaviour & Training www.thesoundhound.com.au

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NUTRITION

Nutrition affects behavior in both dogs and people. Just as too much sugar can cause kids to become hyperactive, cranky, and out of control, poor nutrition can contribute to canine behavior issues. Dogs who are anxious, fearful, “hyperactive” or aggressive are likely to be even more so with excess sugar and unhealthful chemicals flooding their system. There are so many dog foods on the market that it can be confusing to figure out which ones are truly nutritious. Learning to read labels will allow you to bypass exaggerated advertising claims and get a realistic idea of a product’s quality. By law, dog food manufacturers must list ingredients in descending order by bulk weight. For example, a bag of dry kibble that lists the first three ingredients as “chicken meal, chicken by-product meal, rice” has more chicken meal than any other ingredient. Because dogs are primarily carnivores, the first two ingredients should contain meat. The most common meat sources are chicken, turkey, lamb, and beef. There are three grades of meat: using chicken as an example, the highest quality is simply labeled “chicken.” This indicates a whole meat source—the clean flesh of slaughtered chickens, limited to lean muscle tissue. A step below that is “chicken meal,” made from rendered muscle and tissue. (Rendering separates fat-soluble from water-soluble materials, removes most of the water, and may destroy or alter some natural enzymes and proteins found in raw ingredients.) If “meal” is listed, the source should be identified (rather than the vaguely descriptive “poultry meal” or “meat meal”). The lowest level of chicken would be “chicken by-products.” Chicken by-products may contain heads, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines. Dog foods that contain by-products, especially when they appear high on the list of ingredients, are not of high quality. Avoid dog foods that contain large amounts of corn. Corn is a common allergen that has been known to cause itchy skin as well as hyperactive behavior (through a series of chemical reactions in the body, it actually lowers serotonin—the neurotransmitter that contributes to calmness—levels in the brain). Other ingredients to avoid include artificial colors or flavors, and any that are not identified by source (for example, “animal fat” rather than “chicken fat”). Also, read the ingredient line that begins “preserved with…” The desirable preservatives are vitamins E (sometimes listed as “mixed tocopherols”) and C (often called “ascorbic acid”). Unhealthful, potentially cancer-causing preservatives to watch for are BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin. Beware! Some sneaky manufacturers break down less-than-ideal ingredients into parts so they can be listed separately and therefore appear lower on the ingredients list. For example, the list might read “chicken meal, ground corn, corn meal, corn gluten meal.” In reality, if all the corn products were grouped together, there would be more corn than chicken by bulk weight, so corn would have to be listed first. In general, supermarket brands are of lower quality than those found at pet supply stores. Higher quality foods are more expensive, but because they contain more nutrients, less is fed per meal, so it balances out. And because the body is able to absorb more nutrients, less waste is produced! Feeding a high quality food is an investment in your dog’s health. Spending a bit more now might well save you the cost of veterinary visits in the future. To switch from one food to another, do it gradually over the course of a week. Add in more of the new food little by little as you decrease the amount of the old. If your dog has a medical condition, discuss potential dietary changes with your vet.

For additional free dog bite prevention resources and moredog behavior books and products, visit www.drsophiayin.com.

How Kids SHOULD NOT Interact with DogsIt's common sense. Just imagine how people should interact with each other.

Avoid taking people’s food

Avoid stealing other people’s toys

Avoid putting your face right up to someone else’s face

Avoid bothering when asleep

Avoid pestering

Avoid climbing on or trampling

Avoid pinching

Avoid screaming around

Avoid bothering dogs whenthey are eating

Avoid taking a dog’s bones or toys

Avoid putting your face right up to a dog’s face

Avoid bothering animalswhen they are resting.Let sleeping dogs lie.

Avoid grabbing tail/ears

Avoid climbing on or trampling

Avoid hugging.Most dogs dislike it.

Avoid hollering and shouting.Use your "inside" voice instead.

For additional free dog bite prevention resources and moredog behavior books and products, visit www.drsophiayin.com.

How Kids SHOULD Interact with DogsUse common sense.

Be polite and kind to pets

Fetch

Learn to recognizewhen your dog is scaredor anxious

Training tricks(like roll over,shake, beg, etc.)

Walking andrunning witha dog

Playinghide-n-seek

Supervise allinteractions.Accidents canhappen in asplit second.

Play appropriate games with pets, such as:

Always remember:

Train your dog toassociate the kids withpositive experiencesso he’ll be more likelyto tolerate your childin case she accidentallyinteracts inappropriately.

For additional free dog bite prevention resources and moredog behavior books and products, visit www.drsophiayin.com.

Body Language of Fear in Dogs

More Subtle Signs of Fear & Anxiety

Licking Lipswhen no food nearby

Pantingwhen not hot or thirsty

Slight Cowering Major Cowering

Brows Furrowed, Ears to Side

Moving in Slow Motionwalking slow on floor

Acting Sleepy or Yawningwhen they shouldn’t be tired

Hypervigilantlooking in many directions

Suddenly Won’t Eatbut was hungry earlier

Moving Away Pacing

© 2011 Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS