dog play groups - humane society of huron valleyhumane society of huron valley | (734) 662-5585 |...

DOG PLAY GROUPSHANDLER TRAINING

information adapted from WWW.DOGSPLAYINGFORLIFE.ORG

3100 Cherry Hill Road | Ann Arbor, MI | 48105

(734) 662-5585 | www.hshv.org

http://www.dogsplayingforlife.org/

Becoming Certified as a Handler

Volunteer Path• Minimum of 8-10 hours as a runner

• Blue Dot Dog Walker

• Ability/Commitment to complete Certification in 4-6 weeks

• Complete this independent study

• Shadow play groups for a minimum of 4 hours

• “Handle” for a minimum of 8 hours (4 sessions)

• Final Assessment/Certification:

• “Handle” during 3 different play groups with 3 different

leads

• Input from the 3 different leads will determine certification

• 3 months or longer without a shift you will be considered

“inactive” as a handler

PURPOSE BEHIND PLAY

GROUPS

Before we can expect a shelteredanimal to cope and thrive, we needto satisfy them at some level.

Humane Society of Huron Valley | (734) 662-5585 | www.hshv.org

• For dog-to-dog issues, a socially

healthy dog can be much more

effective than trainers/humans

• Higher receptivity to training due

to the mental and physical outlet

of play groups

• What may be considered

inappropriate play with a person

can be natural between dogs

• Enhanced quality of life for a

shelter dog

• “Packs” create a more natural

environment for overcoming fear,

anxiety, and reactivity.

Play Groups: Worth the Time & EffortEnrichment, Assessment, Training, Adoption Enhancement


Determining sociability more accurately• Assessments on leash and/or behind a barrier are not necessarily predictive

Physical outlet, exercise & mental stimulation• A 30 minute romp can be equivalent to a 2 hour walk!

• Mental energy is burned through intensive social interaction.

Natural environment for “pack” animals• Pack-like bonding vs. social isolation can minimize behavioral deterioration.

• Rapid behavior modification can be accomplished.

• Best NOT to create mini-packs within one common territory

Resources maximized• Two people can attend to more dogs in group than handling individually

• No Less than 2 people in yard for 3+ dogs

Benefits vs. Risks of Play Groups


Reduction of Barrier Reactivity (BR) & On Leash Reactivity (OLR)

• Healthy contact can reduce perception of threat

Better Roommate matches

• After playing together, dogs generally cohabitate in kennels more

smoothly ***

Better Adoption Matches

• Many dog interactions go more smoothly from the social experience that

play groups provide while sheltered ***

*** NOT a guarantee that territorial or resource guarding issues will

not surface in the home! ***

Benefits vs. Risks of Play Groups


• Lead Handler: Manager/director the play group

session. Decides who comes in and goes out. Controls

the gate. Reviews any notes before session, provides a

“briefing” to everyone in the play group.

• Handler: assistant to the Lead. An extra set of eyes on

the dogs. Takes direction from Lead Handler on when to

use interruption/correction tools.

• Runner: Transporter of dogs to and from the play yard.

Timing of when and which dogs to bring to and from the

play yard is decided by Lead Handler. Runner waits for

direction from Lead Handler on when to let dogs in/out

of the gate.

Roles Within the Play Groups


• Compiles the potential play groups after reviewing prior notes

and current dog population

• Assembles two-way radios and provides brief instructions to

both runners and handlers

• Provides supply of “Come See Me in the Play Yard” cards to

volunteer runners

• Leads the pre-session and/or a post-session review with team

(i.e. who is doing what, anticipated dog line-up, other

considerations for the session)

• A binder is kept with all session notes on dogs-this is mostly

done by handler and the lead handler, but runners might be asked to take notes on occasion

Behavior Team-Before the Session Starts


Get and add pics of HSHV

HSHV Dogs Having Fun & Playing!

PLAY STYLES &

COMPATIBILITY


• All ages, breeds, temperaments…it depends on the

dog.

• Dogs that have just had surgery, heartworm, or sick

dogs are not good candidates

• Most important, it depends on the comfort level of the

handler

Which Dogs are Candidates for Play Groups?


Dogs do and will switch between play styles and benefit from the

various styles described below.

Gentle & Dainty

• Mutual, easy to manage, easily becomes nervous, quiet, frequently stops and

starts play

Rough & Rowdy

• Mutual, noisy/vocal, physical/wrestling type play, grabbing/holding/chasing

other dogs

Push & Pull

• Less mutual play, chasing/driving/nipping other dogs, prefers to move other

dogs around, antagonistic, handler may need to intervene to keep things

“polite”

Seek & Destroy ** usually needs the most handler intervention

• Mimics herding behavior, more mutual than anticipated, important that dogs

are observed for vulnerability and/or escalation (keeping it playful)

Different Play Styles of Dogs


Play Style Compatibility

Generally, same play styles do well together.

Push & Pull and Seek & Destroy

Rough & Rowdy LOVE to play together…if

handler is comfortable enough to let it

GO!

Rough & Rowdy and Push & Pull can be

combustible

Gentle & Dainty don’t prefer to play with

the other play styles

HANDLING TECHNIQUES

& HUMANS


• Refrain from unnecessary talking.

• Keep your voice gentle and calm, but confident. For

example: A low, steady tone exudes confidence and

control.

• Avoid sounding panicked, reactive, or excited.

• Limit talking to the dogs. Remember: play groups are

designed for dog-dog interactions.

• Negative Verbal Marker - use a consistent negative

marker such as “eh-eh” or “enough” in order to clearly

communicate with the dogs when they are behaving

inappropriately or disproportionally to the feedback they

are receiving from the other dogs.

Your Voice


• Keep hands away from the dogs. Limit interactions, such as

petting, so that the dogs can remain focused on their time

with one another.

• Be aware that you might become a highly valued resource

to the dogs by giving attention or affection.

• Use your lower body, rather than your hands, to teach

them to yield to your legs and to calmly communicate with

the dogs. This is a way to take space, particularly at the

entrance gate. You can also use your body to calmly step

in between dogs to reduce tension.

Your Body


• When handling the dogs by their collars or on leash always

guide the dogs smoothly - don’t drag them.

• Use calm, consistent movements and a soft, loose leash or

guiding hand.

• Refrain from using pressure on their collar, as long as they

are following you. Don’t put the dogs in a defensive state

by pulling and dragging them.

• Remember: soft and gentle guidance communicates to

the dogs that they are correct, while a tight leash or firm

grip conveys that they are in trouble.

Moving the Dogs

WORKING THE GATE


• Lead Handler will need to watch the new dog and other dogs in

the yard; balance between taking a moment to observe?...or,

building frustration?

• Allow dogs to meet with new dog in the staging pen

• Goal is to reinforce correct energy upon entrance

• Decide

• if leash stays on or comes off

• does the dog need a muzzle

• does the dog enter the play yard at all with this group

• Lead Handler not only decides if a dog comes in, but if a dog

needs to come out

Out of the Gate!


• Is a current dog showing unwanted behavior such as growling,

biting at fence?

• The new dog in the staging area would be taken out, the more

“aggressive” dog removed, then the new dog is re-introduced.

• A dog rushing a fence or not allowing a new dog into the group

could set a negative tone for the group, which might increase the

likelihood of a fight

• Understand taking space…use your legs or spray bottle

― Teaches dog to yield to your legs, not hands

― Use your body to calmly step in between dogs to reduce tension

• Open in or out…yield or invite? Look at body language

― Excessive or Excited Barking

― Biting at the fence

Out of the Gate!

INTERRUPTIONS &

CORRECTIONS


Interruptions Corrections

Momentarily influences interaction Goal is to extinguish behavior

Choose when behavior is inappropriate, not

concerning

Choose when behavior is concerning &

must not escalate for safety reasons

Helpful to develop more appropriate play

habits

Helpful for dogs who need to show

increases responsiveness to the handler (or

other dogs), while decreasing drive in play

Example might be a negative verbal marker,

with or without a shake can or spray bottle

Example might be a negative verbal

marker, with or without a shake can or

spray bottle

Only necessary if dogs are not responding to

one another

Rather than distracting away from issue, use

correction to teach the dog to make a

different choice next time

Often used at the gate, helps an excited

dog enter play yard more appropriately

Intended to provide information that will

teach dogs to behave more appropriately

so they can remain in play groups

Interruptions vs. Corrections


• Dogs will usually move through their communications

and work out their own issues without your assistance

• Understand what the dog is telling you (aggressiveness

vs. excitement)

• Before using an interruption or correction, always

precede with your negative verbal marker which

teaches the dogs to listen for your verbal cue so that no

further interruptions or corrections are needed

• Allow dogs to teach each other how to interact in a

healthy way, rather than becoming dependent on you

When to Use Interruptions & Corrections


1. Play is not mutual

2. One dog is having fun at the expense of the

other

3. Response is disproportionate to the feedback

from the other dog

4. Struggling to complete the greeting ritual due to

arousal, immaturity, fear, etc.

5. When a fight begins, not before it starts

When to Intervene


Most important…Stay Calm, no yelling or hitting as it can

cause the fight to escalate

1. Use a startling tool (i.e. shake can, pet corrector, air horn)

2. Use any object, (not your hand or body) to get between the

dogs (trash can, chair, clip board, etc)

3. If dogs remain engaged, grab hind legs or leashes. Avoid

reaching for the collar as the dog could re-direct onto you

4. Avoid pulling dogs apart as this can cause tearing and more

serious injury than biting alone

5. Immobilize the dog who is holding on by controlling the back of

their head by pushing in

6. Do not let go of the dogs once apart, remove the offending dog

7. When possible, do Continue Play Recover (CPR) after removing

the offending dog

Handling a Dog Fight


When & Why it’s needed

• Bad play experiences (fight or scuffle) can happen

when a dog is

• nervous or doesn’t fit into a group

• too offensive (seeking to aggress)

• intolerant of others

• selective and just didn’t enjoy the particular other dog(s)

• The victim dog needs to decompress & recover – end on

a positive note, before returning to their kennel

• CPR time decreases potential, future defensive behaviors

• An average CPR session lasts 20-30 minutes

CPR: Continue Play Recovery


The Lead Handler will always direct the CPR

Ways to incorporate CPR

• The offensive dog is removed from the yard; the remaining dogs keep

playing so they will be able to have another positive experience

• With the victim dog, add a social dog to provide positive play time or

a solo play session (this could be in the upper or lower play yards)

• Take the victim dog for a calm walk and spend extra play time in their

kennel

• Provide positive play, but resist overly comforting the victim dog

Remember, serious fights are rare and the benefits of play

groups outweigh the risks.

CPR: Steps to Take After a Dog Has a Bad

Play Experience (fight or scuffle)


• When they are standing at the door to the

pen cage

• Laying down in the yard, panting

• Not interacting with other dogs

• Snapping at other dogs when they walk by

• They get into a fight

Signs a Dog is Ready to Leave the Play Yard


Communication Tools(Located in Green Bin in Play Yard)

or Milk Jug


Uses & Benefits:

• Interruption/Correction for a single dog

• Helpful at the gate to help dogs enter more

calmly & to enforce respectful space from

dogs already in the yard

Possible Disadvantages:

• Dogs may become fearful of handler

• Dog may not consider this an aversive (may see it as a

reward!) & will not respond to water as intended

Using Communication Tools Spray Bottle(Water Only) w/ Verbal Lead (“eh eh”)


Uses & Benefits:

• Interruption or correction for multiple dogs

• Can be rattled lightly or firmly, at or near the

“offending” dog or tossed as a startling tool

• Depending on the “size” of the situation, can choose can or

jug to correct


• Many dogs will hear it at the same time, may affect the other

dogs

• Dogs may become fearful of handler

Using Communication Tools:Shake Can or Milk Jug


Uses & Benefits:


• Sprayed at or near dog’s face

• For some dogs, the sound of the spray is enough correction;

some dogs will need the sound and touch of the air to be

more effective


• Dogs nearby will also be affected

• Possible physical reaction to citronella

• Dogs may become fearful or reactive to handler

Using Communication Tools:Spray Shield or Pet Corrector


Uses & Benefits:


(sound or pop horn)

• Startles dogs apart that are engaged in a

fight


• Intense and scary to many dogs

• Typically will affect all dogs in yard

• Possible physical reaction to extreme volume too close to

ears

• May develop fear of handler and/or play yard

Using Communication Tools:Air Horn

SAFETY TOOLS


Safety Tools At a Glance

* For the potential suppression effect

** When fearful of the handler or when there is no catch pen

Un-Socialized Fearful Defensive Offensive

LeashX X ** X X

Gentle

Leader

Brand *

X X

Basket

Muzzle X


• Dogs will go to play yard with only a leash

(you can use a leash wrap for ease of walking

needed) and not other walking tools like a harness, etc

• Runners will remove purple leash and replace with black

leashes once inside the gate

• Allow dogs to enter yard with leash so that it drags behind

them

• Allow dogs to drag their leashes if you anticipate they aren’t

well socialized, fearful, might overreact to other dogs, or you

are getting to know them. Having a leash to grab will keep

everyone safe

• Dragging leashes can cause problems such as entanglement

• As soon as comfortable with dog’s play, goal is to remove the

leash

Safety Tools: Leashes


• Potential distraction

• Can suppress an exuberant dog that comes on too

strongly at first

• If dog will be dragging a leash, best to attach to collar

rather than gentle leader

• Fits normally (not too tight) around nose & head so

dogs are aware of the halter, but can pant and drink

• NOT a tool for an aggressive dog

Safety Tools: The Gentle Leader


• For aggressive or dogs with a history of

inappropriate behavior with other dogs

• Better to use a muzzle whenever you are in doubt

about a dog’s behavior

• Watch for signs of over-heating in hot weather

• Remove once dog is showing lack of aggression or

other socially appropriate dogs are wanting to play

with the muzzled dog.

Known & skilled play group dogs are often better judges of a new dog’s behavior than the handlers!

Safety Tools: Basket Muzzles


• Be a neutral hall monitor

• Keep yard free of toys, treats=potential trigger

• Check collars for proper fit (loose ones can be a

hazard)

• Remove dragging leashes once comfortable

• Remove certain training equipment that might become

a hazard in play (i.e. muzzle, leash)

Safety First

HOW DOGS

COMMUNICATE


• It’s a behavior, not a trait

• Can be legitimate communication & considered

appropriate

• Can be a disproportionate response to a situation &

considered abnormal behavior

• It’s up to handler/leader to determine when an

“aggressive” response does or doesn’t make sense

Understanding Aggression


Defensive:

• Defending or guarding

• Rooted in fear and/or anxiety; lack of social skills

• Can typically interact w/ other dogs, but may need support from

handler

• Will often choose flight instead of fight

Offensive:

• Offending; a fault or crime

• Not as common as thought

• Often are dog-dog aggressive, not appropriate for play group

• Ignore cues from other dogs, will pursue a dog trying to get away

• Will be aggressive even with the opportunity to flee or avoid conflict

• Should be eliminated as a play group candidate

Understanding Aggression: 2 Types


• Way to communicate with body language &

vocalizations

• A dog’s way of saying “I don’t want to have to be

aggressive, so you better stop what you are doing now.”

Warnings

Appropriate way for dogs to say “Please Stop”.

Common when a dog is behaving more defensively

Threats

Declaration of an intention to inflict injury or pain

Common when a dog is behaving more offensively

Be prepared to intervene if escalates to aggression

Warnings & Threats


Pics from Play Group Here???

Healthy Communication


• Pinned Ears

• Erect Tail

• Hackles

― Shoulders (offense)

― Full body (defense)

• Mounting

• Necking

• Growling

• Showing Teeth

Remember to look at overall body

language to get a better

understanding of dog’s behavior.

Body Language

ASSESSMENT &

OUTCOMES


Playful: initiates play. Avoids/diffuses defensive or offensive

aggression

Un-socialized: overly aroused/reactive despite appropriate

social gestures from others

Fearful: overwhelmed by environment

Prey-like: fearful with immediate flight response,

accompanied by high pitched vocalization

Tolerant: avoids playful and/or antagonistic gestures

Play Groups as Assessment


Defensive: doesn’t initiate aggression, but responds with

aggression to challenge or bullying

Dominant: confident with calm leadership. Appropriately

corrects obnoxious behavior, will submit to antagonistic

behavior, diffuses aggression, ignores indifferent dogs,

will play with appropriate dogs of either sex

Offensive: seeks out opportunities to aggress

Play Groups as Assessment


• Social: appropriate and playful w/ other dogs

• Tolerant: more tolerant than playful, or shows no

interest

• Selective: plays w/ some dogs while intolerant of

others

• Defensive: playful w/ some dogs, but reactive to

dogs that challenge or threaten

• Offensive: not able to play with or tolerate other

dogs

Play Group Outcomes


• Shelter vs. Home

― Is not always contextual

• Successful Play Sessions

― Not a guarantee dog will be social with other dogs in the home

• BR & OLR Behaviors

― Not accurate predictors or dog aggression

• Resource Guarding (dog-dog)

― Can escalate or disappear once home

• Territorial Behaviors

― Can emerge once home

• Relationship

― Affects behavior and cannot be scientifically measured

Can We Predict Outcomes?


• Shelter life is unpredictable

• You never know until you try…that’s how you grow

• Once an animal is gone, there is no way of knowing how they could

have been in another context or in relationship

• Support adoptions

• Serve more animals by having shelters work together to share

resources

• When implementing new programs, revisit medical protocols to treat

the “whole” animal

• Consider play groups part of standard care…like feeding and

cleaning

• Play Groups are GOOD for Shelter Dogs!

What We Have Learned


Email [email protected] – to let them know

you have completed this independent study.

Receive confirming email from Volunteer

Department that the Dog Play Group Handler

Shadowing VIC assignment is now open to you!

Sign-up for Trainee shifts in VIC.

Remember these shifts start with shadowing,

move into hands-on, and end with

assessment by Behavior staff.

Next Steps for Volunteers

mailto:[email protected]


Your training log will be initiated and kept with the

Behavior Staff in the Handler Trainee binder.

Next Steps for Volunteers

3100 Cherry Hill Road | Ann Arbor, MI | 48105

(734) 662-5585 | www.hshv.org

BEHAVIOR TEAM:

LEAD HANDLERS

Kyle

Tareasa

Patty

dog play groups - humane society of huron valleyhumane society of huron valley | (734) 662-5585 |...

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