dog grooming courses · learn about the different breeds, coat types, clipping styles and even the...
TRANSCRIPT
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Table of Contents Introduction ................................................................................................................ 9
Lesson 1 ................................................................................................................... 10
Safety First ........................................................................................................... 10
Making Your Shop a Safe Place to Work .......................................................... 10
Disinfecting Your Shop ...................................................................................... 11
Dealing with Aggressive Dogs and Fear Biters ................................................. 12
Recognizing Medical Conditions that Need Veterinarian Attention ................... 13
Clipper Phobia................................................................................................... 17
Handling First Timers ........................................................................................ 17
Grooming Puppies ............................................................................................ 18
Lesson 2 ................................................................................................................... 19
Supplies and Equipment ....................................................................................... 19
Your Clothing .................................................................................................... 19
Clippers ............................................................................................................. 19
Grooming Tables ............................................................................................... 21
Bathtubs ............................................................................................................ 21
Dryers ............................................................................................................... 23
Combs ............................................................................................................... 24
Brushes ............................................................................................................. 25
Ear Care ............................................................................................................ 26
Eye Care ........................................................................................................... 26
Nail Care ........................................................................................................... 26
Scissors ............................................................................................................ 26
Stripping Tools .................................................................................................. 27
Dematting Tools ................................................................................................ 28
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Cleaning Products ............................................................................................. 28
Lesson 3 ................................................................................................................... 29
Bathing & Grooming Other Animals ...................................................................... 29
Bathing Procedure ............................................................................................ 29
Nails .................................................................................................................. 32
Dewclaws .......................................................................................................... 33
Ears ................................................................................................................... 33
Eyes .................................................................................................................. 34
Teeth ................................................................................................................. 34
Drying ................................................................................................................ 35
De-Skunking a Dog ........................................................................................... 36
Grooming Cats .................................................................................................. 36
Lesson 4 ................................................................................................................... 39
The Grooming Process ......................................................................................... 39
Timing ............................................................................................................... 39
Brushing ............................................................................................................ 40
Mats .................................................................................................................. 41
Clipping ............................................................................................................. 42
Stripping ............................................................................................................ 43
Thinning ............................................................................................................ 46
Grooming Cross and Mixed Breed Dogs ........................................................... 46
Lesson 5 ................................................................................................................... 47
Corded and Curly Coats ....................................................................................... 47
Curly-Coated Retriever ..................................................................................... 48
Bergamasco ...................................................................................................... 49
Bolognese ......................................................................................................... 51
Corded Poodles ................................................................................................ 53
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Irish Water Spaniel ............................................................................................ 54
Komondor ......................................................................................................... 55
Lagotto Romagnolo ........................................................................................... 56
Puli .................................................................................................................... 59
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier ............................................................................ 61
Spanish Water Dog ........................................................................................... 63
Lesson 6 ................................................................................................................... 65
Long Coated Breeds ............................................................................................. 65
Clipping ............................................................................................................. 65
Afghan ............................................................................................................... 67
Bearded Collie................................................................................................... 68
Briard ................................................................................................................ 70
Chinese Crested ............................................................................................... 71
Coton De Tulear ................................................................................................ 73
Havanese .......................................................................................................... 74
Japanese Chin .................................................................................................. 75
Lhasa Apso ....................................................................................................... 76
Maltese ............................................................................................................. 78
Old English Sheepdog ...................................................................................... 80
Pekingese ......................................................................................................... 81
Polish Lowland Sheepdog ................................................................................. 82
Shih Tzu ............................................................................................................ 83
Skye Terrier ...................................................................................................... 84
Tibetan Terrier................................................................................................... 85
Yorkshire Terrier ............................................................................................... 87
Lesson 7 ................................................................................................................... 89
Medium-Length Coated Breeds ............................................................................ 89
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Shetland Sheepdog ........................................................................................... 90
Australian Shepherd .......................................................................................... 91
Australian Terrier ............................................................................................... 92
Bernese Mountain Dog ..................................................................................... 93
Border Collie ..................................................................................................... 94
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel .......................................................................... 96
Long-Coated Chihuahua ................................................................................... 96
Clumber Spaniel ................................................................................................ 97
Longhaired Dachshund ..................................................................................... 98
Setters ............................................................................................................... 99
English Toy Spaniel (King Charles) ................................................................. 101
Flat Coated Terrier .......................................................................................... 102
Golden Retriever ............................................................................................. 103
Irish Wolfhound ............................................................................................... 105
Papillon ........................................................................................................... 106
Silky Terrier (Australian) .................................................................................. 107
Spinone Italiano (Italiano Spinone) ................................................................. 108
Sussex Spaniel ............................................................................................... 110
Tibetan Spaniel ............................................................................................... 111
Welsh Springer Spaniel ................................................................................... 112
Lesson 8 ................................................................................................................. 114
Shorthaired Breeds ............................................................................................. 114
Basic Equipment Needed for Shorthaired Dogs .............................................. 115
Basic Bathing and Drying Procedure .............................................................. 115
Greyhound ...................................................................................................... 116
Affenpinscher .................................................................................................. 116
Australian Cattle Dog ...................................................................................... 116
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Basenji ............................................................................................................ 117
Basset Hound.................................................................................................. 117
Beagle ............................................................................................................. 117
Bloodhound ..................................................................................................... 117
Boston Terrier ................................................................................................. 117
Boxer ............................................................................................................... 118
Bulldog ............................................................................................................ 118
Bullmastiff ....................................................................................................... 118
Bull Terrier ...................................................................................................... 118
Chesapeake Bay Retriever ............................................................................. 118
Chihuahua ....................................................................................................... 118
Chinese Shar-Pei ............................................................................................ 119
Smooth Collie .................................................................................................. 119
Dachshund (Smooth and Wirehaired) ............................................................. 119
Dalmatian ........................................................................................................ 119
Doberman Pinscher ........................................................................................ 120
Foxhound ........................................................................................................ 120
French Bulldog ................................................................................................ 120
German Shorthaired Pointer ........................................................................... 120
Great Dane ..................................................................................................... 120
Italian Greyhound ............................................................................................ 120
Labrador Retriever .......................................................................................... 121
Manchester Terrier (Standard and Toy) .......................................................... 121
Mastiff ............................................................................................................. 121
Miniature Pinscher .......................................................................................... 121
Neapolitan Mastiff ........................................................................................... 121
Pointer ............................................................................................................. 121
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Pug .................................................................................................................. 122
Rhodesian Ridgeback ..................................................................................... 122
Rottweiler ........................................................................................................ 122
Staffordshire Bull Terrier ................................................................................. 122
Weimaraner .................................................................................................... 122
Welsh Corgi (Cardigan and Pembroke) .......................................................... 123
Whippet ........................................................................................................... 123
Lesson 9 ................................................................................................................. 124
The Stripped Breeds ........................................................................................... 124
Show Dogs ...................................................................................................... 124
Terriers ............................................................................................................ 124
West Highland Terrier ..................................................................................... 125
Airedale Terrier ............................................................................................... 127
Brussels Griffon ............................................................................................... 130
Cairn Terrier .................................................................................................... 132
Fox Terrier (Wire and Smooth)........................................................................ 133
Parson Russell Terrier .................................................................................... 135
Schnauzer (Miniature, Standard and Giant) .................................................... 136
Scottish Terrier ................................................................................................ 138
Lesson 10 ............................................................................................................... 140
The Poodle ......................................................................................................... 140
Poodle Ear Care .............................................................................................. 140
Scissoring ....................................................................................................... 141
Clipping ........................................................................................................... 141
Lesson 11 ............................................................................................................... 151
Clipped and Trimmed Breeds ............................................................................. 151
American Cocker Spaniel ................................................................................ 151
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Bichon Frise .................................................................................................... 153
Brittany ............................................................................................................ 156
English Cocker Spaniel ................................................................................... 157
English Springer Spaniel ................................................................................. 157
Kerry Blue Terrier ............................................................................................ 159
Lesson 12 ............................................................................................................... 161
Thick and Densely Coated Breeds ..................................................................... 161
Basic Grooming Procedure ............................................................................. 162
Conclusion ............................................................................................................. 164
Quiz ........................................................................................................................ 165
Glossary Of Terms……………………………………………………………………… 167
Legal……………………………………………………………………………………… 172
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Introduction Dog grooming is a profession that is perfect for the animal lover that has decided to
devote their life's work to animals, but doesn't see themselves working in a
veterinarian hospital. As a dog groomer, you have several advantages in that you
are self-employed, you can set your own hours and you get to spend the entire day
doing something that you love.
Dog grooming is not something that you can just begin one day. It does take time to
learn about the different breeds, coat types, clipping styles and even the nutrition
that a dog needs to look his or her best. Additionally, as a groomer, you have a
responsibility towards the animals in that you should be able to recognize anytime an
animal needs medical attention and you should pass that information along to the
dog's owner.
Dog grooming is the act of ensuring the dog's skin and coat are in a clean and
balanced state. Many dogs simply need a good bath, nails clipped and hair brushed
out while others need a more complicated coat clipping and style performed on
them. If the dog is a pet or a show animal, the owner may also have other
requirements in the grooming of their dog as well. As a groomer, it is your job to
ensure that no matter what the requirements are, the dog comes out of your shop
looking its best.
How you groom a dog depends on its breed, coat type, as well as the owner's
preferences. Many owners are able to handle a certain amount of grooming up to a
point in a dog's daily life, but there are always going to be times when a professional
hand is needed to take a good looking dog and turn them into a great looking dog.
This is where you and this course comes in. Here you will learn everything you need
to know about dog grooming from before the dog hits the bathtub to the moment the
owner takes them out your door.
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Lesson 1
Safety First
When handling animals, safety is of paramount importance. Not only does the
environment need to be safe for the dog, but it also needs to be safe for you. You
are also going to come across dogs that are not particularly happy to be getting
groomed and they may be aggressive or nippy. This means that you also need to be
prepared to protect yourself from a dog bite. Additionally, many dogs are touchy.
They may be perfectly happy one moment, but simply touching a paw can make
them snarl. Therefore, you need to have a plan of action so that you can safely
complete your job and prevent any workplace accidents.
Making Your Shop a Safe Place to Work
The first step in ensuring a safe workplace is making sure that your overall
surroundings are safe. It is important that you have an area in the back of your shop
that is out of sight of clients where you kennel all animals. You also need to be
certain that you have an area that separates any dogs that are currently being
groomed from dogs that are being brought in for appointments. This can be done by
simply having a front waiting area and front desk with a half door that you use to take
the animals to the back.
Handling Animals Safely
All dogs should arrive on a leash and should leave on a leash. Some dogs may be
small enough to be placed in carriers and this is a good practice, if possible. This
way you will have extra kennel space should you need it on a busy day. It is also
important that you have a number of simple loop-style dog leashes that you can
quickly loop around and pull tight around the dog's neck for easy movement. Ideally,
all dogs should be switched to your leashes when they arrive so that you do not have
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to be responsible for any lost leashes and collars. Send personal leashes and
collars home with the owners and then replace them when they come to pick up their
pets. This type of leash is also useful when you need to muzzle a dog to prevent
biting.
Another area of concern in a grooming shop is slipping. With a bunch of wet dogs
running around, you need to have mats on the floor that will prevent you and the
dogs from slipping. Many of the dogs you groom will be large and unable to control
their urge to shake. This means you're likely to experience a significant amount of
water on your floors. There are several different types of mats you can purchase
that will help you to prevent both you and the animals from slipping, particularly when
they exit the bathtub. You can also prevent a lot of this water by towel drying the
dogs before they get out of the tub. If you have anything electrical in your bathing
room, be certain that you have all weather electrical outlets that are placed in a high
spot. You also do not want anything electrical plugged in near the bathtub. This will
prevent accidental electrocution. At the same time, it's important to have adequate
lighting in all rooms of your shop.
Disinfecting Your Shop
After using the bathtub for a dog or using your grooming table for a dog, it is
important that these areas are disinfected before moving on to the next animal. This
will help to prevent the spread of disease, fleas and ticks.
You can disinfect these areas in several ways, either by having a spray disinfectant
that you spray over the bathtub or grooming table after using it or by using
disinfectant wipes on these areas. For bathtubs, it's easiest if they are of a
nonporous material and you can simply spray them down, let the disinfectant set for
a few minutes and then rinse prior to the next bath. For grooming tables, it's easiest
to just spray and wipe the area down.
Disinfecting brushes and combs are also important. You can use a barber shop
disinfectant, such as Barbacide, to store these items so that they are always
disinfected and ready to go when you need them.
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Dealing with Aggressive Dogs and Fear Biters
Fear biters are much more common in a grooming shop than purely aggressive
dogs. Fear is easy to recognize in a dog and it is most common in small breeds that
are coddled daily by their owners. These fearful dogs exhibit signs of anxiety
including trembling, cowering, and even nippy biting. These dogs are simply scared,
but you'll need to handle them with care while they are in your custody to ensure that
you and your coworkers do not get harmed.
Fear is often a learned behavior. For instance, if the dog had a not so pleasant time
at your shop last time due to being bathed, having their nails clipped or mats
removed, the dog may simply be afraid to be taken by you. Other dogs are afraid to
be placed in kennels or a cage, which means you will have a hard time getting them
into one and if they are scared enough they may turn and bite. Anytime you are
dealing with a dog that is afraid and has the potential to become a biter, it is always
best to have the owner muzzle the dog when they bring it in. It is important for you
to have several sizes of cloth muzzles available so that they can be placed on the
dog by the owner, who is less likely to be bitten. While you have the dog, do not
take the muzzle off until the owner arrives. This may make it difficult to groom the
dog's face, but this is for the safety of everyone involved. It is also recommended
that you mention some sort of training to the owner so that the dog can become
more comfortable in unfamiliar surroundings as well as people they don’t know.
Dogs that are aggressive in general should also be muzzled upon arrival. These
dogs may not necessarily be fearful, but they have a propensity to bite anyway. It is
important that any dog that is considered aggressive or shows aggressive behavior
towards you be muzzled for your protection. The owner will understand and should
help you in this situation.
Additionally, there are those dogs that only seem to bite while in a kennel or cage.
These dogs often tend to be claustrophobic and there are different ways you can
deal with these dogs. First of all, if you must place them in a kennel, place them in a
large kennel so they do not feel as though the walls are coming in around them.
Slowly open the kennel door and use a temporary leash that loops to gently and
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quickly "rope" the dog so that he can be taken out of the kennel without you touching
him/her. If your kennel room closes off from the rest of your shop, you can often
shut the main door, allow the dog to get out on its own and then secure it with a
leash. These dogs are less likely to bite you once they are out of the kennel and
don't feel as though they are being trapped.
There are instances in which some dogs need to be simply sedated. This often
occurs when their coats are in such bad condition that it is painful for you to groom
them, but it is a job that needs to be done. In this situation, even the friendliest dog
may become agitated and aggressive, so it is best to have the dog sedated. If a dog
does require sedation, then it is best for the owner to take the dog to a veterinarian
to be shaved and then brought back to you for any clean up work once the
potentially painful part of the work is complete. Veterinarians are not always the best
groomers and it is better for them to give medication. Always speak to a veterinarian
before sedating a dog to ensure that you are giving the proper amount of medication
and obtain permission from the owner prior to sedating as well.
Recognizing Medical Conditions that Need Veterinarian Attention
Every groomer should be able to recognize skin problems and other conditions that
need veterinary attention. If you recognize these issues in any dog, it is imperative
that you let the owner know so that they can seek appropriate veterinarian care.
Food Allergies
Many dogs will have food allergies that manifest themselves in different manners
and the owner may not know the symptoms. Dogs often develop skin rashes and
skin issues when they are allergic to something. Alert the dog's owner to these
reactions and then advise that they get the dog medical care.
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Chemical/Contact Allergies
Some people may spray their dogs with perfume or other deodorants that smell
good. However, many dogs will have adverse reactions to these chemicals. Some
dogs are also allergic to household cleaning items such as furniture polish. If you
notice any adverse skin reactions, have the dog's owner contact a vet to determine
the cause.
Vaccine Reactions
Vaccine reactions are common skin problems. They may develop as a rash,
physical illness or as a bump under the skin. If you notice any reaction to a vaccine,
then have the owner contact their vet. A homeopathic vet will often be able to
provide assistance as well.
Eczema
Eczema is a common allergic reaction that can be caused by a poor diet or by
parasites. In general, it is parasites, such as mites, fleas or lice that cause eczema
to develop in dogs. These lesions also tend to "weep" if they are scratched. If you
notice any skin lesions that are red, sore and hot, it is important that the owner
contact their vet. Treatment is important as the condition will only get worse.
Parasites
As a groomer, there are several parasites that you can handle. These typically
include your basic fleas and ticks. However, some dogs may have parasites so
badly that they constantly itch until they have bald patches on their body. Any
patches that are bald, red and bleeding need medical treatment.
Don't get parasites mixed up with dandruff. The dandruff caused by a parasite called
the cheyletiella mite appears to be simple dandruff, when it is really of the walking
and living kind. In some situations, not only is medical treatment required, but the
owner should have their entire home treated for pests.
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There are also a variety of other types of mites. Mites like to live in the folds of skin
and under the belly. They tend to hide in places where dogs have a hard time
reaching them. You can also check the feet closely. Little red spots are signs of
harvest mites. Mites must be dealt with quickly and one way to do this is to douse
the dog in apple cider vinegar. Owners will need to do this three times a day for five
days if they have a problem. You can get them started by doing it the first day in
your shop. Alcohol can also kill the mites, but a solution of half water and half apple
cider is very good at removing mites.
Ear mites are often a problem and they cause a stinky, black build-up to form in the
ears. Dogs will need medical attention for ear mites, but you can assist by
thoroughly cleaning the ears with an ear cleaning saline solution. Yeast infections
can also cause the ears to be itchy.
To determine if fleas are present, use a fine toothed flea comb and run it along the
skin and hair. Next, take the comb and lay it on a clean paper towel or tissue and
wet it. If fleas are present, there will be red spots on the tissue showing the blood
that they have sucked from the skin. You can then use a flea shampoo to remove
fleas from the dog and spray the animal with a flea spray after grooming is complet.
You will then want to recommend flea control to the dog's owner.
Ticks come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Dogs tend to pick them up from
their own backyard or through walking in fields and forests. Ticks can be removed
with a flea and tick shampoo, but larger ticks may need to be removed with
tweezers. There are special tweezers designed for removing ticks. Ticks should
then be placed in surgical alcohol, as it is the only substance that will kill them. Ticks
survive in water easily. Also, you can rinse the dog in surgical alcohol to kill ticks
before removing. Once removed, any ticks should be flushed down the toilet, as
those that survive will climb back up the plumbing in your bathtub.
Warts
Clipping a dog that has warts can be a difficult task. This is because the tops can
easily be cut off causing excessive bleeding on the dog. Many dogs find their warts
to be painful, while others can be covered head to toe without feeling a single thing.
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Some breeds tend to suffer from warts more than others. Popular breeds that tend
to have warts include:
Norwegian Elkhound
Cocker Spaniels
Toy Poodles
Before grooming thick and matted coats, it is a good idea to thoroughly check for
warts prior to clipping. Older dogs are also prone to developing warts.
In many situations warts are not going to need medical attention, but in some cases,
it is best to consult a vet. This is particularly true if the dog suddenly begins to
develop them. If a wart is inflamed or weeping, it needs medical attention.
Anal Sacs
The anal sacs are located under the skin near the anus. When the dog defecates,
the anal sacs release a fluid. Sometimes, these sacs will become clogged and need
to be emptied. If this is something you feel comfortable doing, then it is advisable
that you have a veterinarian show you how to do it first. If you are not interested in
this job, tell the owner of the dog about the situation and that the dog needs
veterinarian attention.
If the anal sacs are swollen and puffy, then they require emptying. Many dogs will
also drag their rears on the ground and this is a sign to owners that they need to be
emptied.
How to Empty the Anal Glands
These glands are located on either side of the anus. It is best if this is done in the
bath, as the water causes the skin to become soft and the dog is more relaxed.
Be sure to wear a rubber hygiene glove while doing this procedure and place your
finger and thumb on either side of the gland. When they need emptying, it will
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usually feel hardened. Press in, up and outwards to release the fluid, which will
smell awful. The excretion may be thick like toothpaste or it will be thin like water.
There is a certain knack to this that you can develop and some dogs are easier to do
than others. If the area is sensitive, smelly or both, and nothing comes out it is
advisable to have the animal taken to the vet by the owner.
Clipper Phobia
Clipper phobia is another issue that many groomers deal with on a daily basis.
Electric clippers are noisy (although there are some new types that are very quiet)
and they also feel funny on the dog's body. There are several issues to keep in mind
when dealing with dogs that are afraid of clippers.
For instance, dogs with arthritis or other bone issues can find clippers painful on their
joints. You should consider not clipping the dog as closely or using smaller clippers
in these areas. Also, dogs that have infected mouths or gum disease are often very
leery of clippers around their mouths.
Some dogs have been burnt with hot clippers in the past. This negative experience
has led them to dislike clippers all together. You will have to work slowly and gently
with these dogs. Also, be sure to use a clipper lubricator every five to ten minutes to
keep the blade running free and cool.
In most cases, you're dealing with a first time dog that has never been around
clippers. In this case, you're going to have to get the dog used to clippers in a
controlled way. Have the clippers running nearby while you're brushing the dog and
giving it a treat. The idea is that you can get the dog used to the sound and then
gradually move them closer until the dog is no longer bothered by them and then you
can actually use them on the dog.
Handling First Timers
Most dogs are nervous on their first visit to the groomer, even if they have been to a
groomer, but never to you. Be certain that you are calm and quiet with the dog. Talk
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to the dog and maybe have the radio on a soothing station. Keep your voice calm
and casual and the dog will trust you in no time.
Additionally, if the dog knows its basic obedience commands, then use them to your
advantage. Many dogs will sit and stand on a grooming table without being
controlled by a variety of straps and contraptions. For others, teaching them to do
this is another part of your job.
Grooming Puppies
To avoid any dog from becoming aggressive towards a groomer, it's important that
you introduce the dog to a groomer from an early age. Begin by brushing and
handling any puppy clients that you may have in a friendly and fun manner. You
want their visits to you to be fun and exciting, not scary. The secret here is to put the
pup's welfare over your success. You want the dog to look great when it goes home,
but you also want it to be happy to see you and not scared. If necessary, sacrifice a
degree of your presentation in order to ensure the puppy has a good experience and
is happy when he or she goes home. As the puppy becomes used to you, it will be a
breeze to groom as an adult.
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Lesson 2
Supplies and Equipment
The equipment doesn't necessarily make the groomer, but it sure makes the
groomer's job a lot easier. When you are beginning your dog grooming career, there
are going to be several items that you will need to buy. It is always a good rule of
thumb to buy the best equipment that you can and then upgrade when you can
afford to do so. Poor equipment not only breaks easily, but it can make the job
harder on you, as well.
Your Clothing
Working with dogs all day is not necessarily a clean job. Because of this you need to
look both professional, but prepared for the job at hand. Getting your image right will
also encourage your clients to come back.
When you're grooming, you're bound to get wet and get covered in hair. Many dog
groomers wear scrubs when grooming and rubber aprons when bathing dogs.
These are also comfortable to wear all day and you have a lot of flexibility. You also
give yourself a medical professional style as well.
You also need to be concerned about your feet. Good, comfortable shoes are a
must and ideally should be non-slip. You're standing in a lot of water and hair, so it's
easy to slip with a rambunctious dog. This is definitely something you need to keep
in mind.
Clippers
Clippers are a very important part of your business and purchasing the best pair of
clippers is very important. Many groomers use only Oster clippers and for good
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reason. They may not be cheap, but they are the best in the industry and many
groomers have multiple sets for different coat types.
The small, cheap clippers will do the job, but they vibrate badly and often scare
dogs. They are also no good for a busy dog groomer. If there is one area not to
skimp on, it's on your clippers.
Oster is not the only brand of clipper available that groomers like. The Aesculap
Favorita line is a favorite amongst groomers. These clippers are cool-running and
great on neglected coats. They have a variety of blade lengths available as well.
Andis Cordless clippers run on a battery and also work with the Oster blades. They
also work with a number of lengths.
The Oster A5 clipper is great for the starting groomer as they are gentle on the dog.
You do need to check them occasionally to ensure that the blade is not hot.
Clipper Accessories
There are several accessories for your clippers that will make your job easier as well.
A blade bank will hold the blades for you safely and in an easily identifiable manner.
The blade bank holds up to 15 blades at a time.
Clipper oil is good for lubricating both your blades and your scissors. A degreasing,
cleaning substance for blades is also a necessity. This is often marketed as "blade
wash." Grease should be kept on hand for clipper bearings as well.
Comb attachments need to be suited for your type of clipper. These are used for
changing the size of the blade so that you can leave a specific length of coat. These
are good when owners want the coat to be only an inch or two long.
Finally, a clipper vac is very much worth your consideration. These suck away the
hair as the dog is clipped. This makes the workplace a safer and cleaner place to
work.
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Grooming Tables
Your grooming table needs to be strong and steady. A rubber mat on top of the
table will also provide security to the dog so that it does not slip. The table should be
a comfortable height for you and easily adjustable depending on the size of the dog.
You don't want to spend all day stooping over dogs, as this will cause back pain in
the long run. It's also a good idea to get a stool that adjusts so that you're not
standing on your feet all day.
Bathtubs
Every groomer needs a bathtub, and possibly more than one depending on how
busy your operation is and if you have assistants. The bathtub should be placed at
waist level to make it easier for you to groom. A low table or stairs makes it easy for
the dog to walk into the bath on its own rather than you having to lift it. Great Danes
can be quiet a chore to get into a bathtub!
Bath Accessories
Inside the bath there are a variety of sprayers that you can use to make your job
easier. These attach to your water source and are long tubes with a sprayer at the
end. This makes it easier to spray the dog down and get its entire coat wet. It also
makes it easier to rinse out any shampoo or coat conditioners.
It also helps in some instances to have a hook that you can attach the dog's leash
too. This is good for dogs that are not exactly keen on being in the bath and that you
need help controlling. It also keeps them in the bathtub if you have to turn away for
a moment to get a brush, shampoo or towel.
A bath brush is also a great tool. These are rubber brushes that help to deep clean
the dog and remove excess hair. They are also useful in distributing coat
treatments.
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Shampoo
There are several different types of shampoo available on the market. There are
shampoos designed for maintaining coat colors, shampoos for specific coat colors,
anti-flea, pro-skincare, oatmeal, super-whitening shampoos and many more.
Most shampoos that you buy will need to be diluted with water before use. It is
always a good rule of thumb to have a variety of shampoos available in your arsenal.
You also need to have them diluted in their own containers at all times. The milder
the shampoo the better.
Some of the latest shampoos on the market are advertised as "silver" or "diamond"
types. These shampoos are designed to give the dog a sparkle, while removing
stains and discoloration from the coat.
Sculpt rinses are also great for dogs that are scissored or trimmed. They are great
for giving dogs an outstanding finish, whether they are pets or show dogs.
Color Enhancers
These shampoos do not add color to the coat; they are simply designed to enhance
a dog's natural color. For instance, the whitening shampoos are ideal for white dogs
or dogs that have white parts in their coat, such as a Border Collie. The shampoos
also come in black shampoos for black dogs and blue shampoos for blue and silver
coated dogs. You may want to use a combination of shampoos to enhance all
aspects of the dog's coat color.
Conditioners
Conditioners are not a necessity for all coat types, but there are a few that will
benefit from them. These include coats that are:
Wiry
Long
Curly
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Some short coated dogs will also benefit from conditioners depending on their coat's
texture.
Some conditioners are designed for different functions. For instances, there are
those that are used for a "sleek rinse." These are for long coats that need a
dematting substance and also anti-static properties. There is also a "crinkle-beater"
conditioner for those dogs that you want to Blow-dry with straight hair when they
typically have wavy hair.
Remember to use any oil-based conditioner sparingly as they can cause the dog to
become greasy.
Dryers
Dryers are essential and it's always a good policy to have at least one, hands-free
dryer that you can use. There are several varieties and for many dogs, the cage
dryers are very convenient. This way you can multi-task as much as possible.
Some dryers are available that allow you to use them in hand as well as place them
on a stand for hands-free operation.
Automatic or Cage Dryers
These dryers are excellent for short haired dogs or breeds such as a German
Shepherd where it's not essential for you to be brushing or combing the coat as you
dry. These dryers can save you a lot of time because they simply hook onto the
kennel door and you can vary the strength of the blow. They are also
thermostatically controlled as well.
Stand Dryers
These dryers are popular for breeds where you need to Blow-dry and brush at the
same time. These dryers are very robust with a rotating nozzle and allow you to
handle the dog, brush it and comb it while also Blow-drying at the same time.
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Hand Dryers
These are your typical hand blow-dryer that you would use on your own hair at
home. There are several different varieties available and they are useful for those
groomers who trim dogs out of their home.
Power Blower/Groomer
The power groomer is a high powered blower that is able to penetrate and separate
section of hair. They are great for removing dust, tangles and even blowing the hair
straight.
When you need to brush a dog prior to bathing, you can use the power blower
instead. Be certain to protect the dog's ears from the noise by placing cotton in their
ears.
This blower is also excellent on breeds such as the Old English Sheepdog. These
dogs are known for their ability to become matted in no time and the blower can help
you to remove tangles before mats start between baths.
Towels
Towels are a must have in any grooming operation. They should be superabsorbent
and heavy duty. You will use your towels time and time again and after every bath
you give a dog. Along with towels, you'll need a good washer and dryer that won't
clog easily from dog hair as you'll have a load of towels going constantly.
Combs
There are several different types of combs available and you'll probably need at least
one of each. The best combs are those that are stainless steel and have a round
handle.
These are divided into different categories:
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Coarse – This comb is designed to remove mats or felts.
Medium – This is another comb designed to eliminate matting and felting.
Medium/Coarse – This comb is a chrome, all-metal comb with a rounded
back.
Untangle Pet Comb – This comb has teeth that rotate 360 degrees so that
the teeth can gently turn to eliminate tangles without too much pain.
Molting Combs – These combs have a white plastic handle and round-
shaped back. These combs virtually eliminate mats and felts.
Back Comb – This comb is for styling and creating lift.
Tail Comb – This comb is for separating and parting the coat.
Flea Comb – This comb has very fine teeth to help remove parasites.
Brushes
There are several different types of brushes, but there are two main brushes that you
will need in your toolkit.
Pin and Bristle Brushes – This is a natural bristle brush that comes in large,
medium and small with a cushioned pad.
Slicker Brush – This brush is available in several styles and shapes. They
have hooked steel pins to break up tangles and may be either straight or have
a curved backed. Every groomer should have several of these.
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Ear Care
There are a few ear care tools you will need as well. You will learn the functions of
these later, but they include:
Forceps
Ear Cleaner
Ear Powder
Eye Care
Tear-stain remover and emollient are needed to clean around the eyes and to
remove the tear stains that many dogs develop.
Nail Care
There are many types of nail clippers available. Some styles have a safety guard to
prevent the removal of too much nail at one time. These clippers come in small,
medium and large for different sizes of dogs as well. The scissor-type or the
guillotine-type are the best and you should buy a good quality pair as they cut the
best and will stand up for a long time. Some of the cheaper version of clippers have
jagged edges and can make clipping painful after wear and tear.
A little too much nail is bound to get clipped off eventually and you need to be
prepared for that occurrence as well. A bleeding nail can be very messy, so have
permanganate crystals on hand so that you can put a dab on the end of the nail to
stop the bleeding. Many dogs will jump at the last moment and cause you to take off
more than intended, so it is essential to be prepared. The bleeding also tends to
look a lot worse than it really is, but you need to stop it nevertheless.
Scissors
There are hundreds of types of scissors available to groomers on the market. These
range from very expensive finishing scissors to more affordable scissors.
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The type of cut and finish you are looking for on a particular dog will dictate the
quality of scissors you decide to purchase. If you're only going to be doing local pets
and your friends and families dogs, then you probably do not need the most
expensive scissors. You still want scissors that are going to cut well and are sharp.
If you're grooming show dogs or going to grooming competitions, then the cut is
going to matter and you may need to invest in some more expensive scissors. Many
groomers will have a certain pair reserved for show dogs and use a less expensive
pair for their daily scissoring.
You can also select from scissors that have a finger guide. This may be a rubber
insert or a hook on the end to prevent the scissors from moving or slipping while in
use. Some people prefer no finger guides.
Always try out any pair of scissors you are considering purchasing. One pair may be
perfect for you while another may not be. Thinning scissors have a flat blade on one
side and a blade with gaps on the other. These scissors are commonly used on
spaniels and dogs with thick coats that need thinning rather than clipping.
Stripping Tools
Many breeds require stripping rather than scissoring. These are mostly terrier
breeds. There are several different stripping tools available for you to use including:
Stripping Knife – Left and right handed knives are available. These have a
long, fine blade with a round end. They are available in several different
sizes.
Stripping Stones – These are gray stones that many groomers use for
stripping. They can be cut to size and help to remove loose hair from coats.
Dog Dresser – This type of stripping knife comes in blades that are
interchangeable as opposed to the regular stripping knife that is an all in one
tool.
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Dematting Tools
Mats are a common dog problem, especially in double coated dogs. There are
several different tools that are available to help you remove mats and felts:
The Mat Splitter – This is a handy tool that cuts through mats with ease. It is
simple to use and doesn't cause a lot of stress in the dog. The handle is
shaped for comfort and has a tapered guide. It has a honed steel cutting
blade that cuts out the toughest of tangles easily.
Mat-Breaker – This is also designed for the removal of mats and tangles.
The stainless-steel blades are specially shaped and can be replaced.
Dematting Rake – This is a tool with replaceable serrated stainless-steel
blades. It comes in many sizes and can be reversed from right to left.
Cleaning Products
You need to have different disinfectants for your tools, equipment and even your
floors. A grooming supply shop will have a variety for you to choose from.
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Lesson 3
Bathing & Grooming Other Animals
Before you begin the bath, there are several things you need to have ready to go.
First, you need to have your shampoos, conditioners and bath brushes within reach.
It also doesn't hurt to have towels handy as well. It is also essential to have a rubber
mat in the floor of the bath tub to prevent the dog from slipping as the will try to grip
with their toe nails. Additionally, it is important that the dog is thoroughly brushed
before bathing. Any mats need to be removed before the dog is wet or their situation
will only become worse.
Bathing Procedure
Before you begin, remember that you should never leave a dog in the bath tub
unattended. Even if the dog is tied up, he or she is likely going to try and escape if
you leave the room. Many dogs have hung themselves in this manner and you don't
want to be responsible for the death of a client's pet.
When bathing large dogs in a waist high tub, it's best if you can have some sort of
stair system or an assistant to help you lift the dog. Even some of the more medium
sized dogs are heavier than they appear as well. Most dogs are willing to oblige, but
you will have some dogs that try to do everything they can to go the other way when
you're trying to get them in the tub.
Dogs that have never been in the tub before tend to panic at first, but once you get
them in carefully and chat with them for a bit they tend to calm down. It even helps
to have a treat for them once they are in the tub.
Depending on the dog, you may or may not want to tie them into the tub. Some
dogs don't like the restraint and will act out more than if you just allow them to stand
in the tub on their own.
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If you have a very large dog that is not too keen on the bathing experience, it is often
better to have two people working on the dog. You're able to complete the bathing
process much quicker and get the dog out of the tub much more quickly, which he is
going to appreciate.
PreBath Clipping
In some situations, you will need to remove some of the top coat before bathing is to
take place. Clipping clean hair is better on your clipper blades, but removing excess
hair will help you to cut down on your washing and drying time. Sometimes, you can
cut it in half. If you use a lubricating spray and oil on your clippers, you shouldn't
have to worry about them too much. Never clip wet hair. Do clean your clipper
blades after using them on a dirty dog. You don't want them to become clogged with
dirt, sand, mud and other debris.
If a dog is matted around the rear end, clipping around the anus area with a medium-
cut blade will remove a lot of unwanted hair and debris that you won't want to try and
brush out later. Be careful around the anus and genitals while doing this.
Additionally, you can clip mats out from the feet if they are matted as well.
In hairy or matted dogs, it can also be useful to clip around the belly, groin and chest
area, as well as the underarms prior to bathing. The clipping will not be noticed
while the dog is standing, just while lying on his back. This can make the dog cooler
as well as smell better. This is not something you would do to a show dog, but only
on a pet.
Wetting the Coat
The dog should be completely wet before applying shampoo. Lift the long hair and
spray the dog down to the roots. Not getting the dog completely wet before applying
shampoo will only cause them to be itchy later. It is also best to not allow the dog to
stand in a pool of dirty water. Allow the water to drain away as the dog is bathed.
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Use a decent water spray with a warm temperature. Test the water temperature with
the underside of your arm as it is more sensitive than your hands.
Start with the dog's head. Always protect the ears with cotton balls. Protect the
eyes with a drop of mineral oil in each. Wet down the head and face gently, then
move to the neck and along the back. Do the left side and then move to the right
side. Finally, wet the tail. If you need to turn the dog, do so gently because they are
much more likely to try and escape at this point. If the dog is very sensitive about
the head, you can reverse the order and work from the tail up.
Applying Shampoo
Using diluted shampoo, work it into the coat with your hands. Diluted shampoo is
best because it will distribute easier and is less likely to affect the skin. Massage the
shampoo into the coat. Don't forget their underarms, chest and belly. You also need
to get the anal area and their feet. Be certain that the shampoo gets down to the
skin and is well lathered. Add more water if necessary.
When shampooing the head, be careful not to get any into the eyes. If you suspect
that shampoo has gotten into the eyes, rinse them immediately with water. The
mineral oil should help to prevent any irritation. Do not put any shampoo into the
dog's ears.
Rinse the shampoo off and use a second application if required. You can typically
tell by looking at the dog if you need a second application. Many times dogs with
thick coats will need more than one application. Watch the water as you rinse, if it is
still running dirty, then you probably need to shampoo again. Additionally, you
should feel and hear a "squeak" when it is clean – just like when you wash your own
hair.
If you're bathing dogs that have sensitive skin, you may want to consider using an
oatmeal based shampoo. These are very moisturizing shampoos and ideal for dogs
with skin ailments.
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Rinsing
Rinsing should be very thorough. If in doubt, rinse some more. Rinse the dog until
you get that squeaky clean feeling. Any shampoo that is left behind will cause
dandruff and the dog will become itchy. When rinsing shorthaired dogs, such as a
Weimaraner or Dalmatian, you can use a rubber hound glove. These gloves have
tiny little protrusions that will help to remove a lot of the dead and molting hair as you
rinse. These gloves help the dog to dry much quicker and they will be smoother as
well.
Dematting Conditioner
Some breeds of dogs, especially those with particularly long hair and matting
potential, will benefit from a dematting conditioner. These can be godsends on coats
that tend to tangle. Brush them through when the coat is wet and remove any
tangles. Most will then need to be rinsed out. You will do this as a final step before
drying.
Nails
Once the dog has been bathed it is easier to trim the dog's nails. This is because
they are softer from being soaked in water and they will trim off much more quickly.
Some dogs have long blood vessels because their nails have not been trimmed on a
regular basis. This means you may have to be extra careful when clipping.
Sometimes you are better off taking bits at a time and slowly working back rather
than taking off large pieces at a time.
If you're not sure, it is often better to use a large file to remove the sharp edges and
not risk cutting to the quick. Be careful with electric filers on long coated dogs as
they can get caught and tangled.
The quick is the nerve and blood supply of the nail and cutting it is very painful. You
can stop the bleeding with permanganate crystals or a styptic pencil. Care should be
taken when cutting nails. You can often look at the bottom of the nail to see where
you should stop cutting. Dogs have an indention in the bottom of the nail and you do
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not want to clip into this area. On dogs with white nails, you can often see the blood
vessel and where you should stop. However, this can't be seen on dogs with black
or dark brown nails.
Dewclaws
The dewclaws can be problematic on many breeds. This is because they are higher
up on the leg and often loose from the body. These nails are easy for some dogs to
hook and rip off while playing. In some breeds, such as the Poodle, the dewclaws
are removed at birth, but they are part of the breed standard in others, such as the
Great Pyrenees.
Dewclaws must be regularly checked and clipped. These nails will grow and grow
and some dogs have had their nails grow into the skin. This can cause a lot of pain
and infection. Surgery is usually the only option for these dogs.
If your dog is a pet, these claws are not required at all. However, removing them
requires surgery. It is not necessary to have them surgically removed unless the dog
has constant problems with them. These claws will just need regular clipping and
filing.
Puppies in particular need to have their dewclaws clipped regularly when their nails
are clipped, as they can become very sharp.
Ears
Holding back the flap of the ear, you will need to clean the ears with a cotton pad
and ear cleaner. There are several types of ear cleaners available and many are
available from grooming supply stores or even veterinarian's offices. You also need
to apply an ear powder to reduce the occurrence of ear mites.
Apply the ear powder after cleaning and then allow it to sit for a few minutes. Next,
use a small pair of forceps as tweezers to remove tiny bits of hair from around the
ear. This is less painful than pulling with your fingers.
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Be sure to disinfect your forceps with alcohol or another disinfectant before moving
on to another dog, as you do not want to spread an ear infection or ear mites to
another dog.
Eyes
Many dogs have weepy eyes or sleep deposits. Carefully wipe around the eyes and
remove this goo. You may also need to use a tear-stain remover to clean away
brown stains caused by tears.
Tear stains can rarely be removed completely. Tears from sensitive eyes are
particularly bad when it is windy or the dog lives in a dusty location. Most dogs will
cope well, but other have ingrown eyelashes that add to the problem.
Top knots are great for keeping hair out of the eyes. Face fall hair often causes
irritation and excess tears. However, when you're using top knots be certain that you
do not use rubber bands as they cling to the hair and pull when removed. You also
want to be certain that you do not pull it so tight that it is pulling the skin. If top knots
are too tight, the dog will scratch at them to loosen it and possibly remove it.
Teeth
The teeth should be checked regularly. As a groomer, you can often prevent tooth
decay and gum disease if you are able to detect it. Use a tooth scraper to remove
tartar build-up along the gum and the upper edge of the tooth.
Before using a tooth scraper, cleanse it in peroxide. You will then hold the dog's
muzzle in one hand and lift the lip to reveal the teeth. The first scrapes may be
difficult, but once the first chunk falls, the rest will usually follow with ease. Finally,
apply an astringent, which is half peroxide and half water. You can also purchase
these from a vet. Rub the solution on the gums to prevent infection.
Sometimes a dog doesn't really have tartar, but just brown stained teeth. Check
before you try removing tartar to ensure that the teeth just aren't stained.
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Drying
A lot of water can be removed from the coat simply by using towels prior to letting
the dog out of the tub. Squeeze any excess moisture that you can out of the coat
with cotton towels.
For those dogs that have a heavy coat, considering blasting a lot of the water out of
the coat with a high-velocity dryer. Do this by placing the dog on the table and then
holding a towel behind the dog. Use the blower to blow the hair up and away from
the body which will also blow the water off the coat. Don't point the blower straight
down as this causes the water to go towards the skin instead of off the hair. This
method should only be used on breeds such as the St. Bernard or heavy-coated
spitz breeds. You wouldn't want to do this on a Poodle, as it would cause their hair
to dry too quickly and make it crinkle. This makes it difficult to scissor later. Poodles
need hand Blow-drying.
If you need to use a "stay in" spray conditioner on a coat, then apply this following
the manufacturer's instructions. You will then commence drying the dog. With
breeds such as the Poodle, it is essential to blow-dry the hair by separating the
strands with a brush and then using the dryer to blow the hair.
Each small section of the hair should be parted working up from the back foot. You
must be careful not to Blow-dry directly on the skin as it can become hot and the dog
may kick or try to escape. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin
itself. Most dogs hate their faces being blow dried, so do not overdo it if the dog is
fighting back.
Some breeds that require a flat look, like the Golden Retriever, will need to have
their hair dried down rather than it being lifted. Instead of lifting the sections, you will
work from the top down and straighten the hair with a brush as you go.
Dogs with very short hair will be fine with a cage dryer. You can also towel dry them
and leave them in a warm room. Either way, they do not need much to dry their slick
and short coats.
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There are several breeds that should never be left on their own to dry. These breeds
require constant brushing while being dried and these breeds include:
Afghans
Poodles
Bearded Collies
Old English Sheepdogs
DeSkunking a Dog
Any dog that visits the great outdoors or lives on a farm is bound to run across a
skunk. If a dog is sprayed by a skunk, then there is a very good chance it will end up
in your salon.
The traditional method of de-skunking a dog is to use tomato juice. Because skunk
spray is alkaline, you need something acidic to neutralize the odor. You can also
use a mixture of 2/3 water and 1/3 apple cider vinegar. If you use this vinegar for
treating mites, you are much more likely to have it available rather than tomato juice.
Another useful solution is a quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide, ¼ cup baking soda and
1 teaspoon of liquid soap.
Work the solution of choice thoroughly through the fur and leave it to soak for four to
five minutes. You will then rinse thoroughly. When de-skunking a dog, be certain
that you don't get the solution into their eyes. Additionally, you will probably need to
de-skunk everything else the dog has come into contact with.
Grooming Cats
Cats are usually very clean animals on their own, but there are times when they
need a little extra help. Longhaired cats tend to benefit from bathing as it can
prevent tangling, matting and even skin issues. Cats that do have skin problems
may also need bathing in medicated shampoo.
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Giving a cat a bath is no easy task, but it can be made easier when you plan
properly. Longhaired cats should first be brushed or combed to remove tangles.
Mats can be separated by hands. If matting is severe, the cat should be clipped to
save the cat from unnecessary stress.
Prepare by having the water, shampoo and towels ready. Place the cat in the
bathtub, while keeping a firm grip on the scruff of the cat. You can also restrain the
cat with a leash, but be careful about the cat pulling it too tight when the cat
struggles. Keeping a firm grip on the cat will help you to keep it under control. This
process is better if you have an assistant to hold the cat while you work.
Next, wet the cat with warm water being careful around the head and ears. It is best
to keep these areas dry. Use a shampoo that is designed for cats or all pets. After
rinsing thoroughly, remove the cat from the tub and wrap in a towel. Longhaired cats
should be flow dried on a low setting, brushing as you go. Don’t direct the air in the
cat’s face. Shorthaired cats can be placed in a cage with a dryer on low or allow
them to dry naturally.
The ears should be checked for mites. This is generally evident if there is brown
wax present. Clean the ears as you would a dog, but a cat may need extra restraint.
Protect yourself from the claws by wrapping the cat in a towel.
The nails can be clipped by gently taking the sharp tips off. Pressing gently on the
“knuckles” will cause the cat to extend their claws. Be careful not to snip off too
much.
Many longhaired cats need to be clipped either for hygienic purposes or because
their coats have become matted. For longhaired cats with a tendency to mat, you
may need to clip the cat in a “lion cut.” This is basically shaving the cat’s body while
leaving a “mane” and the tip of the tail unshaven.
A “hygiene clip” is when the backs of the legs and the fur around their anus are
clipped. This helps prevent kitty litter and feces from sticking to the cat’s long coat.
The feathering of the cat may also be trimmed. Several cats may need this type of
clip including:
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Kittens
Pregnant cats
Unneutered Male Cats
Older Cats
Sick or Injured Cats
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Lesson 4
The Grooming Process
Once you have the dog bathed and dried, you will be able to perform the more
artistic side of your job. This process varies somewhat depending on the breed of
dog you are working on. It will also vary depending on whether or not you're dealing
with a pet or a show dog. Show dogs have a lot more work that needs to be done to
them and a lot more attention to detail is given, however, there is no reason you can't
perform just as good a job on someone's pet.
Most of the dogs that you will see in your grooming salon will be dogs that have
serious issues. They may be matted to the skin, tangled and look quite neglected.
This is usually because the owner underestimated the amount of care the dog's coat
needed when they acquired him or her and now it's your turn to fix their mess.
These dogs may be hard work, but there's nothing better than making them feel and
look much better by the end of the day.
As you gain experience in your grooming, you will be able to simply look at a photo
and be able to create that same look in one of your client's dogs. Training and
experience will allow you to gain these skills over time.
Timing
Each type of cat and dog will take a different amount of time to groom. When you
consider brushing, bathing, clipping and everything else, a considerable amount of
time can be spent on a long-haired dog. Conversely, a short haired dog may not
take too much time at all. Here are some approximate grooming times for popular
breeds you will see in your grooming salon.
Grooming Times Airedale Terriers 2 to 3 hours
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Bichon Frise 1 ½ hours
Cocker Spaniel 2 ½ hours
Lhasa Apso 1 ½ hours
Miniature/Toy Poodle 1 ½ hours
Old English Sheepdog 2 to 3 hours
Standard Poodle 2 ½ hours
West Highland White 1 ½ hours
These times are approximate and apply to dogs that are in good condition.
Obviously, if the dog is badly matted or nervous, then it will take more time to
complete the job. The times vary according to whether you clip or hand-strip the dog
as well. Hand stripping can take up to three times as long depending on the
condition of the dog's coat.
Additionally, many owners base their grooming schedules off of what they read
about in books and then don't follow it exactly. Pet owners will often wait to have
their dog stripped until they are a year old and only have it done yearly and then
wonder why their dog does not look like the pictures in the book. The book most
likely recommends a strip twice a year. Some dogs need it weekly or every other
week. Other dogs are stripped or rolled on a daily basis as well. It is often a good
idea to recommend a schedule to owners for their particular dog and they will often
follow your suggestions.
Brushing
Brushing takes more talent than you would typically expect. When you first begin,
don't be surprised if you are able to get even more hair out of the dog, even after
you've been brushing for quite some time. Brushing should always be performed
prior to giving a bath. Here is how to tackle this job:
1. Place the dog on your grooming table.
2. Start on the bottom of the front left leg. Using the correct brush, lift the hair
section by section and brush the hair beneath the lifted section.
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3. Then, comb through the coat. Use a grooming spray if the coat is thick and
needs work.
4. On full coated breeds, work up the legs, across the back and down the hind
legs. Be certain to pay attention to areas around the ears and underarms, as
this is where dogs tend to mat the most.
5. Brush the head, ears and whiskers gently. On some dogs, a dry cloth may be
all that is needed here.
6. If you run across mats, use a mat breaker or slicer with the help of your
scissors to remove them. Split any tangles with your fingers and a comb.
When pulling on mats, always support the dog's skin with one hand to reduce
pain from pulling on the hair.
When brushing, always use the best tools. You may need to switch combs and
brushes as you go to get as much loose hair off the dog as possible. Be careful to
not scratch the skin as you work. Additionally, don't use a slicker or steel pin brush
on dogs that have been clipped and have very short hair.
Mats
Undercoats on double coated dogs are particularly challenging. Coats on dogs such
as the Old English Sheepdog can become completely matted up against the skin,
making it very difficult to remove. Never bathe a dog that is matted like this as it only
causes the situation to become worse. You have to dig deeply to find the problem
and solve it. If you simply bathe and dry, the top coat will look great, but there's a
nightmare lurking beneath. Additionally, shampoo will also become clogged in the
mats making it even more difficult to remove them.
No dog will feel good until all of the mats are removed. In some situations, you may
need to spray the dog down with a dematting conditioner or untangle lotion and
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leave it to soak into the coat for about ten minutes. Then you will take your slicker
brush and mat-breakers to remove those sections. In extremely bad cases, the dog
may need to be shaved completely and the hair coat allowed to grow back naturally.
Before you clip a dog's entire coat, call the owner and discuss the options. Explain
that it would be cruel of you to sit there and pull at the mats, which could be painful,
and that it would be best for the dog if you just clipped them.
Clipping
There is a difference between clipping off all of a dog's hair and just enough hair to
make the dog mat free and comfortable. It is cruel to clip so close to the skin that
you remove all of the dog's hair. Enough hair should be clipped away so that the
dog has a clean and tidy appearance.
You have several different blades available to you so that you can predetermine the
length that you want to cut off of the dog before hand. Dark faces can often take
closer blades, but a white faced dog may be left with red marks if clipped too closely.
Clippers are designed to be maneuverable and when clipping you'll have to learn the
art of moving your wrist to achieve the sculpted look you're going for. You should
move your hand, your body and the clippers in which ever way you need to when
clipping. You should not maneuver the dog when clipping. The dog should remain
as still as possible.
Additionally, when clipping, it's important that you run the blade over the top of the
skin and flat to the skin. Never run the clipper into the skin. If the dog has wrinkles or
loose flesh, move the wrinkles as you go to ensure a neat finish.
Always clip along the grain of the hair. When clipping on the face, always clip away
from the eyes. Clipping is an art and it will take practice until you feel entirely
comfortable with your newfound skill. Remember, clipping should be done carefully
and kindly. Think of the overall look as you go and move deliberately to ensure it
turns out appropriately.
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There are several makes of clippers on the market. You may need several types for
different jobs. Additionally, there are some clippers that are designed for shearing
thick coated breeds and those with delicate skin. Additionally, there are smaller
clippers available for working on the face and feet.
Snap-on combs are available to help you leave more coat. These are often used on
the dog's body and legs. These combs are useful in that they can greatly reduce the
amount of scissoring time that you will need to spend on the dog. There are various
sizes available including puppy length type combs.
Different breeds are clipped with different types of combs. For instance, Westies are
clipped with a Size 1 comb on a No. 4 Oster blade. It is a good idea to experiment
with the different combs and blades, but don't experiment on a client's dog unless
the coat is going to be cut down short.
Snap-on combs will leave the hair as short as a No. 7 blade (or 3 inches). The
blades that are usually used with snap-ons include:
No. 50
No. 40
No. 30
No. 10
Stripping
Hand stripping should be completed prior to bathing. There are various breeds that
require stripping rather than clipping or scissoring, such as the Setters and the
Terriers. As you read through the different lessons on the different dog breeds, you
will learn which breeds should be stripped.
English and Irish Setters should never be clipped. Clipping encourages their hair to
curl into a mass all over their body, which completely destroys the wonderful, silky
and sleek appearance they should have.
Terrier coats can also be ruined by clipping as well. This is because their softer
undercoat will take over their course topcoat. These dogs should have their
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undercoats stripped twice a year to keep the dog's shapely appearance. The dog
will also become uncomfortable because their undercoat becomes hot and itchy. It
is much better if the dog is hand-stripped on a regular basis, about every six to eight
weeks. This way, the dog will have less hair loss and will keep their look throughout
the year. Stripping is a dying art that has been taken over by the thinning shears
and clever clipping, but hand stripping still produces a much better looking dog in the
long run.
Depending on coat growth, most hand stripped breeds will need their first stripping at
3 months of age. This is when the coat begins to frizz and the fluff can be removed
easily. Underneath the frizz is the new coat jacket, which will look tidy and last the
puppy until it is 7 months old. At that time, the long hair will begin to grow in and
form a natural parting and fall into clumps. This is a sign that the dog is ready for
another stripping. In the adult dog, the adult coat is seen around the third or fourth
jacket. Unfortunately, many owners do not recognize this until the dog is about a
year old and then bring the dog to be groomed, which means more work for the
groomer.
How to HandStrip
Begin by lifting a small section and grasping a small amount of hair between your
thumb and finger. Pull the loose hairs from each part quickly. Be sure you only pull
a few hairs at a time to not cause pain or stress to the dog.
Always follow the direction in which the hair is growing. The hairs will come out
much easier this way. Additionally, place your hand on the skin near the base of the
hair to keep it taut and cause less pain.
Using a Stripping Knife
Because hand stripping is time consuming, many people prefer to use a stripping
knife to speed up the process. Many people find it easier to use a knife as well.
These are really not sharp knifes, but blunt knives to prevent the hair from being cut.
It is also easier if you can find a stripping knife that is serrated. Run the knife across
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a stone to blunt the edge before using, as it still may be able to cut you. When using
the knife, pull the hair straight back rather than flipping your wrist up.
Stripping the Adult Dog
When hand-stripping the adult dog, it is best to do so when the dog is shedding
naturally. This tends to be in the spring and autumn. Stripping with a blade is easier
on the dog, but takes more patience. Many dogs that are used to the process will
simply lounge while you do your job.
Before stripping the dog, brush thoroughly and use a fine tooth comb to remove as
much loose hair as possible. Start stripping from the head and work your way down
the body. Be careful to only strip the topcoat and not the soft undercoat. The
undercoat is typically a different color or texture.
After stripping, the knife can be run through the coat to remove any of the loose
undercoat as well. Scissors or clippers may be used around the head, anus and feet
for a neat appearance.
Rolling
Show dogs are frequently rolled to keep their coats looking in top shape. Rolling is a
type of hand stripping that involves rolling the skin between the fingers of one hand,
while you use your other hand to pick out loose hairs. Pet owners should be
encouraged to have their dogs groomed like this on a regular basis. Rolling takes a
few hours every couple of weeks and will keep the dog looking great at all times.
Beware that many breeders and books will tell owners that the dog only needs
stripping twice a year, but it is better to roll in some breeds on a consistent basis.
Carding
This is another type of hand stripping that you use either a clipper blade or stripping
knife for. Hold the blade or knife flat and use in the same manner as the stripping
knife. Work through the coat and remove any thickened topcoat. The undercoat is
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kept, but should be checked by removing loose hairs. This process is also called
"scraping." Carding will keep the topcoat lying flat at all times.
Thinning
Thinning shears are used to thin the dog's coat so that it lies flat. These are used
where the hair needs to be shortened, but clippers would take off too much and
destroy the typical breed appearance. For instance, if you clip an English Setter, the
hair curls instead of lying flat and keeping it's flowing appearance. You can use
thinning shears to thin the hair while keeping a neat appearance.
The shears should be used by taking two to three sections at a time and combing it
out to remove loose hairs. The shears must always be worked with the hair growth
and not used to cut straight across. This will cause a jagged look that is undesirable.
Grooming Cross and Mixed Breed Dogs
The majority of the dogs you are likely to see in your grooming salon are going to be
crossbreeds and mixed breeds. These dogs do not have a standard they need to
meet like show and purebred dogs and you will have to use your best judgment to
make them look good depending on their individual bodies.
Look at the dog and try to imagine what it will look like with the hair clipped, stripped,
thinned, etc. Remember, once the coat is off there's no turning back so make
deliberate decisions and deliberate movements when removing their coat.
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Lesson 5
Corded and Curly Coats
Dogs that have long and corded coats are rare breeds. They are often seen around
the show dog circuit, but rarely do they show up in the local grooming salon.
However, they may be more popular in different parts of the world and you need to
be prepared to groom them properly when they do. For owners, these dogs require
a lot more time in grooming and keeping their appearance and you're likely to see
them frequently.
Curly coated breeds are a little more popular than the corded coat dogs. These
coats are also easier to groom than the corded types. To keep these dogs looking
good, their coats do need nurturing. The longer the curled coat, the better there is a
chance that the coat will become felted or matted, so the hair must be combed
through from the skin down to remove dead hairs on a regular basis. This is
particularly true of Poodles. These coats should be vigilantly cared for from
puppyhood through adulthood.
Breeds discussed in this lesson include:
Curly Coated Retriever
Bergamasco
Bolognese
Corded Poodle
Irish Water Spaniel
Komondor
Lagotto Romagnolo
Puli
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Spanish Water Dog
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CurlyCoated Retriever
This dog has a unique coat that requires little prep, but does need special treatment.
The dog should have no bare patches if the coat is being kept up on a weekly basis.
This coat should only be combed, not brushed.
The body, ears and tail of the dog are covered in dense, crisp curls that lie close to
the skin. The face and muzzles are smooth. These dogs are either black or liver
(brown) colored.
Equipment Needed:
Wide toothed comb to remove dead hair.
Procedure
1. Begin by rubbing the dog's curls with a wet hand to help remove dead hair.
2. Bathe the dog in a pH-balanced shampoo. Essential oils such as tea tree oil
and lavender make this coat really stand out. Keep these oils away from the
eyes. You can also use a shampoo mixed with oil to bathe these dogs as well.
3. Apply a conditioner a couple of times per year.
4. Dry the dog with a towel and pat dry the dog rather than rub. Allow the dog to
dry in a cage dryer or naturally in a warm room.
5. Clip the nails and check the ears and teeth.
6. Spray the coat with an oil-enhanced conditioner and gently rub into the coat.
This will keep the hairs together. Any hairs that you do not want to go back
into their curls should be clipped off.
7. The ears should be scissored along the edge for a neat appearance.
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8. The head curls should be scissored to prevent the look of a topknot. Trim any
long hairs from around the neck, throat and around the stomach.
9. Trim the forelegs around at the elbow and at the back of the leg for neatness
as well. The foot hair should also be trimmed closely.
10. The underside of the tail should be trimmed fairly short starting at the base
and working towards the tip. Be careful not to trim too closely.
Bergamasco
This dog's coat features long matted cords that are known as "broccoli." The coat is
thick, long and harsh in texture on the body, but gets softer near the head. The
undercoat is short, dense and obscures the skin. The hair tends to form into strands
and loose, round mats from the top of the body. The coat should be greasy to the
touch.
The Bergamasco's coat color is gray, solid or with white spots. Solid white is
discouraged and even white spots tend to be grayish. Black is allowed, but it should
not be a shiny black, only dull.
Equipment Needed:
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
The mats should be split by hand into manageable pieces while the dog is young.
The head hair may be combed. Although the coat actually requires little
maintenance, there are three stages in the dog's life that the coat needs attention.
The first stage is at 10 to 12 months of age. The coat of the puppy will be soft and
short. The coat may be occasionally brushed to keep it in order and to remove dirt.
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The second period is the second year of life. At this age the formation and texture
will begin. The puppy hair will be molted. The coat seems to rise and at the rear of
the body you will begin to see some woolly hair come in. First it will be on the tail
and then around the withers. The "goat hair" will also begin to form around the
withers mixing in with the woolly hair. It is during this period that the dog's coat
needs the most attention. The soft puppy hair will be molting and mixing in with the
undercoat and with the woolly hair and goat hair as it forms. This will begin to create
several shapeless clumps. However, it is important that these clumps do not turn
into simple felts.
Limit brushing to a minimum as the coat forms. Great care must be taken not to
open up the clumps as the hair will begin to form the initial mats or "maps." During
this period, it is important to part the clumps down to the skin, but not divide them too
much. A good rule of thumb is to only divide them into strands of 2-2 ¾ inches in
width. Only at this point will you use a brush on the hairs that stick out and would
only become tangled rather than part of a mat. If felts do develop, you will need to
split them with scissors in an upward manner. This should also be kept to a
minimum.
This work should be done on the entire body except for the back "saddle" area. Only
"goat hair" will be present in the saddle area and this area will require brushing. This
is typically where the puppy hair, undercoat and goat hair all begin to mix. It is the
absence of the woolly hair that makes this area of the body different from the rest.
The clumps that form here should be easier to untangle, brush and then comb.
These dogs are not particularly attractive during their second year as the coat begins
its transformation.
The third adjustment period happens at 3 years of age. The saddle will always need
combing, especially at the end of spring, but the maps on the rest of the body should
only need periodic checking to make sure they do not get too wide.
As the dog gets older the clumps will become more prominent and form where they
are supposed too. Apart from keeping the saddle part tidy and the face combed, you
will need to split the maps that become too wide. The coat will also need regular
brushing all over with a stainless steel toothed brush that has fine, curved teeth.
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Brushing should be done about twice a month. Brushing will remove any dirt and
keep the rest of the coat tidy. You do not have to worry about disturbing the maps
as once they form, their internal structure cannot be broken.
Bathing
Frequent baths should not be given to these dogs as it is detrimental to the coat.
The use of shampoo is also not recommended as the coat needs to maintain its
natural oils. The oils create waterproof, protective film around the hairs. Without the
oils, the coat would become dirty and the skin would become dry. This should
always be avoided with this dog. Drying the maps would also cause them to fall out.
It would take many months for this coat to return to its normal appearance.
A good rule of thumb is to give these dogs a complete bath with only a small amount
of shampoo once a year. Definitely don’t bathe them more than twice a year. It is
okay to spot clean these dogs should their faces or feet need cleaning. You would
use a lot of water and only a small amount of soap.
Drying
Drying should also be avoided. It is best to allow these dogs to dry naturally. If you
must dry them, apply a cosmetic oil in the last rinse of the bath to protect the coat
from drying out.
Bolognese
This dog has a non-shedding coat that is more like a Poodle's and forms into flocks.
The coat does not require a lot of trimming, but regular combing. These dogs are
shown naturally, but many pets may be scissored to look similar to a Bichon Frise or
Poodle.
These dogs require frequent bathing and conditioning. They may also be trimmed
into a "lamb" clip or trimmed with a snap-on comb for an overall uniform length. The
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coat should be combed twice a week and if static is a problem; you can use hair-
dressing cream to limit it.
The puppy coat has a finer texture and will need more attention as it transitions into
the adult coat. The coat does not mold, but a little hair will come out as you comb it.
Equipment Needed
Wide-toothed Comb
Procedure
1. Comb the dog from the roots to the ends with a wide-toothed comb and then
work with a medium comb all over the body to remove dead and tangled hair.
All of this should be done prior to bathing.
2. Bathe the dog with a pH balanced shampoo and rinse thoroughly to remove
all traces. It is best to use a shampoo designed for white dogs. Be sure the
dog is thoroughly wetted before shampooing. To prevent matting runn the
water straight down over the dog rather than in circles and untangle the hair
as you go. Smooth the shampoo through the coat as well.
3. Use a good anti-mat conditioner and rinse per the instructions.
4. Rinse thoroughly and towel dry.
5. Cage or lightly Blow-dry with a diffuser attached. Use your fingertips to help
get air throughout the coat. Part hair that may have become matted onto the
skin. This should not happen if the dog was combed well before the bath.
While drying, the hair will form loose curls, sort of like a shaggy perm. These
dogs can also be allowed to dry naturally.
6. Check the ears, teeth and nails.
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7. Check the pads of the feet to remove excess hair.
8. If the dog is trimmed down to a manageable length, use a coarse blade to do
so, such as an Oster No. 7 or No. 40 with a ½ inch attachment
Corded Poodles
The corded poodles can grow very long cords. Brushing the cords will destroy them
and the only tools you need are your fingertips. The cords should be twisted and
continuously rolled with the fingertips. You can also use a grooming oil to help
encourage the formation of the cords.
Procedure
1. Separate any hair that is matted and twist it to encourage it to cord.
2. Bathe the Poodle in a protein shampoo.
3. It is essential that all shampoo is rinsed out thoroughly as it can cause the dog
to become itchy.
4. Check to ensure the ringlets of the hair are not matting. Split them if
necessary and blend them into the cords.
5. Pat the coat dry and allow the dog to dry in a cage dryer. If left on its own to
dry, the thick coat could take up to 24 hours and could cause the dog to
become sick.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
7. The face, feet and front of the neck are clipped as with the other Poodle trims.
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8. The hindquarters may be shaved in the "Continental Lion" form. Leave a
rosette on the hips, which should also be corded.
Irish Water Spaniel
This dog has a dark liver colored coat that has a purplish tint to it. The coat on the
body is dense with tight ringlets. The hair should cover the entire body expect for the
front of the neck and the muzzle.
The coat should not be woolly, but it should have a natural oiliness. It requires
brushing, combing and separating of layers weekly. It needs to be bathed and
trimmed every six to eight weeks.
Equipment Needed
Wide-toothed comb
Slicker brush
Scissors
Procedure
1. Along the top line (spine) of the dog, flick the coat up with the comb so that it
stands up and away from the back. The dog should be trimmed neatly from
the base of the tail, up the back to the neck and then from the top of the neck
to the base of the neck.
2. The rest of the body should be combed and trimmed in the same manner
beginning from the feet and working in an upward manner. You also trim
upwards around the belly.
3. For the front legs. Sit the dog in front of you and lift the leg. Comb the coat
towards the dog's body and then hold the paw and shake the leg. Then
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decide what length you want the coat in the front. Trim from the feet up and
from the chest up to the neck.
4. For the rear legs, stand behind the dog and comb the hair out and up towards
the dog's back. Hold the paw and shake the leg and then trim as you did in
the front, working from the bottom up. The coat should be left a little longer in
the front and a little shorter around the stifle. The coat should also be left a
little longer behind the hock and a little shorter in the front of the leg.
5. While trimming, the entire body should blend together. There should be no
sudden changes in hair length on the entire body, especially where the legs
join the body.
6. Comb down the coat and trim under the belly. Allow the dog to shake and
loosen any ends. You can then trim up any long hairs that pop out.
7. Check the ears, nails and teeth.
Komondor
This is another corded breed with a coat consisting of long, coarse cords. They may
be wavy or curly. The undercoat is soft. The dog is always white, and the skin is
gray.
If neglected, this coat will turn into large matted plates. The cords are long and
heavy. They should be felt-like to the touch.
Equipment Needed
Scissors
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Procedure
1. Check the cords and separate those that have matted to the skin.
2. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo with tea tree and lavender. When
choosing a shampoo, make sure it has soothing and calming properties for
the skin.
3. Rinse the coat thoroughly and be careful that all shampoo is rinsed.
4. Squeeze excess water from the coat with towels.
5. Dry the dog naturally or in a cage dryer.
6. For dogs that are not shown, you can clip the stomach area with an Oster No.
4, as well as the anal area. This will make the dog more comfortable and
cleaner.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. Finish by checking the cords and separate those that have become clogged
next to the skin.
Lagotto Romagnolo
The coat of this dog is its main feature. The coat is thick and woolly covering the
entire body. It forms tight ringlet curls that are very water resistant. The coat on the
head is looser with more open curls.
There are several color variations of this breeding including:
Off-white
White with brown or orange markings
Brown roan
Brown with or without white
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Some dogs may also have a light or dark brown mask as well as tan coat markings.
This coat is non-shedding, but it will felt over time. The coat must be clipped at least
yearly. Those dogs who are pets or working animals may be clipped two or three
times per year depending on how fast the hair grows. The head is not clipped as this
hair grows much more slowly. Scissoring is used to keep the shape though.
Beginning at 7 weeks, the puppy should be groomed every few days with a medium
sized comb. Between 10 and 12 weeks, it should be scissored to about ¾ inch in
length and the hair on the tail should be about ½ inch in length.
At 5 months, the Lagotto will be ready for its first clipping. Depending on the time of
year, you will use either an Oster No. 10 or a No. 8 ½. The development of the curls
will increase in the first two years of life.
For the show ring, these dogs are clipped about 10 to 12 weeks before the show and
then are scissored to keep their outline. The coat is kept at about 1 ½ inches and
must follow the line of the dog evenly. The hair may be longer on the head, but
should not cover the eyes. It is permitted to shave the genital and anal area.
The dog should have a functional coat and not one that is highly clipped or styled.
The coat should enhance the rustic, working look of the breed.
The Lagotto is normally clipped with an Oster No. 10 blade. If clipping midwinter, it
is recommended to use a No. 8 ½. These dogs do require regular bathing,
particularly of the beard. These dogs should always be allowed to dry naturally. The
coast should never be brushed or combed while wet.
Equipment Needed
Medium-toothed steel comb
Plastic or composite combs
Steel de-matter
Good quality slicker
Wide-blade grooming scissors
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Procedure
1. Before bathing the dog, it is important to first de-mat the coat. If it is very
felted, you may need to remove the length with scissors. The Lagotto has a
very water-resistant coat, so if it is longer than 2 inches it can be difficult to get
the dog wet to the skin. Use natural shampoo and rinse well. If the dog is to
be clipped, follow with a conditioner.
2. Before trying to towel dry this breed, allow the dog to shake. A couple of
shakes will remove a lot of the water and leave the dog virtually dry. If you're
in a hurry, you can pat dry the dog with superabsorbent towels and remove
more water from the topcoat. Allow the dog to dry naturally. Cage drying is
not recommended as it causes the coat to fluff.
3. When dry, the coat is a mass of curls. Scissor away loose curls from the body
and legs to create a good outline. For show dogs, trim the head to enhance
the width of the skull, but don't sculpture.
4. Eyebrows and beards should be trimmed as well. These should be of a
functional length and any profuse ear hair should be shortened so that the
shape of the ear can be seen. Companion and working dogs may have the
coat on the head and muzzle uniformly shortened.
5. These dogs tend to have a lot of hair inside the ear. This is to prevent water
from entering the ear while diving. Unless the dog is going to be hunting,
remove the hair inside the ear by pulling.
6. Check the dog's teeth and nails.
7. Check the feet for excess hair and scissor it to prevent mats.
8. After clipping, the grooming is basic combing of the head and regularly
removing any grass or seeds from the undercoat. A slicker brush is good on
these dogs until the coat is about ¾ inch and then it should be combed.
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9. When it becomes hard to comb the dog, a steel de-matter can be used to
remove tangles, knots and felts. If it becomes hard to pass the de-matter
through the coat, it is time for another clipping.
Puli
The corded coat of the Puli naturally forms as the dog gets older. Over time, the
topcoat intertwines with the soft undercoat and forms cords. The fully corded coat
takes quite some time to form and can take up to five years to grow to the floor
length.
The Puli comes in black, with a rusty appearance at times, white and shades of
apricot and gray. There are various types of cords including:
Tight, narrow, round cords
Looser, thicker, round cords
Wide, flatter, ribbon cords
Narrow, firmer, ribbon cords
The main concern is that the cords are the same type all over the body, although the
dog will have thinner, shorter cords on the head and ears.
A floor-length show coat requires regular grooming and much care to preserve the
cords. It should be remembered that the dog developed this coat for working in its
natural environment and has a corded coat to protect itself from extreme weather.
Equipment Needed
Your fingers
Scissors
Brush
Comb
Hair dryer
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Procedure
Note: Be certain that the cords are separated on a regular basis and that they do not
pick up too much debris, as this can cause irritation to the dog.
1. Grooming begins with the puppy, when a soft hairbrush should be used to get
the puppy used to grooming and the skin massaged.
2. Once the cord formation begins in the young dog, brush it to on side and
massage the skin with the fingers. Small tufts close to the skin are the first
signs the cords are forming. The cords become firmer and tighter over time.
Grooming will depend on the type of coat and how much undercoat there is.
It is important that cords are separated to the skin and that there is air
circulation throughout the coat. Separate cords using a mixture of baby oil
and water in a spray bottle.
3. The coat should be bathed regularly using a good shampoo and rinsed
multiple times to ensure all soap residue is removed.
4. The dog should be allowed to dry naturally. A hair dryer can help speed up
the process, but it can still take a considerable amount of time as the cords
absorb a lot of water.
5. Once the coat is dry, make a mix of 1/3 baby oil and 2/3 water and spray
directly onto the coat. The spray can be used between baths to tighten the
coat.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth. The ears can mat particularly easily and they
should not become a solid mat.
7. Check the beard, as food can sometimes get caught in it. Check around the
mouth and eyes as well.
8. Check the feet and remove any mats found or excess coat that might cause
the dog to trip.
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9. A long coat may require trimming if it becomes too long.
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
The coat of this dog is soft and silky when natural. It should not be woolly or wiry.
The coat should be wavy or curly as well. When curly, the coat should have large,
light and loose curls. The coat should not standoff, but flow and fall naturally. The
coat is abundant all over the body and equally abundant on the head and legs. The
length of the coat on the legs should be sufficient to give good balance throughout
the body. The color is called "wheaten", but they may have dark markings that will
clear as the dog gets older.
The coat is non-shedding and requires regular attention to remove the dead hair and
to prevent the coat from matting. Over trimming is considered to be wrong in the
show ring. These dogs should not be styled as well. It is permissible to tidy the coat
and give the dog an outline.
In Britain, the dog is shown in full coat, but in Ireland it is often heavily trimmed. The
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier is a natural dog and the coat should be natural. The
main differences between the UK and the US Wheatens are in the finish. The coat
on the ears can be left natural or the fringed trimmed to show their small size.
However, they should not be clipped or appear shaved.
Thinning scissors may be used to "tip" the coat, as well as to thin it so that the hair
lies flat. All trimming should be done to create a balanced look, but no part of the
body should be accentuated.
Equipment Needed:
Wide-toothed comb
Straight Scissors
Thinning Scissors
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Procedure
1. A wide-toothed metal comb is recommended for the Wheaten coat for daily
grooming. A slicker brush causes the hair to split and strips out new hair. Comb
through the coat and remove dead hair and tangles.
2. Mats and tangles can be removed by parting them with the finger and thumb and
then tease them with the comb. You can use a mat-splitter when necessary and
spray the coat with conditioner to make it easier to comb.
3. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo that includes lavender and tea tree oil.
4. Rinse well.
5. Apply a quality conditioner to enhance the texture.
6. Comb through after towel drying or let the dog dry naturally. Separate the hair
and gently blow-dry to assist the process. Do not over blow as it will ruin the
coat's natural wave. Make sure you Blow-dry in the direction the coat should lay.
You don't want the dog to be overly fluffy.
7. Comb through the coat again with a wide-toothed comb.
8. The head is trimmed with thinners from the back of the eye to the neck. It is
trimmed from the top of the ear to the throat, leaving the beard facing in a
forward direction. This will give the head a rectangular shape. The top of the
head is slightly domed in the US. Eyelashes should remain in tack to keep the
hair out of the eyes.
9. The head is not clipped short for showing, but some pet owners may prefer it.
10. The ears are trimmed to have a V-shape and follow the contours. The thinning
scissors can be used on the flap going up from the bottom of the ear to the head,
leaving longer hair near the head and shorter hair at the ear tips. Excess hair
should be removed with thinning shears.
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11. Where trimmed, scissor the coat to the dog's contours and follow the outline of
the neck, body, and legs. Keep the hair at a moderate length. Tipping the hair is
often sufficient, or lightly scissoring to remove the ends of the hair. The hair
should look natural, rather than sculptured.
12. The tuck-up line of the coat under the body is level at the elbow and then sloping
gently towards the loins.
13. The leg hair should blend and have a natural balance. Remove any straggly
hairs and follow the contours of the stifle and hock. The front legs should have a
column appearance.
14. Check the feet for excess hair and remove with scissors. Neaten around the feet.
15. Tidy the tail to have a neat outline and keep it clean.
16. The underside, belly and groin can be clipped with an Oster No. 10 on pets, but
not show animals.
17. Check the ears, teeth and nails as well.
Spanish Water Dog
This dog has a coat that is always curly and woolly. It forms long and fine cords.
This dog was historically a shepherd and auxiliary to hunters and fisherman in the
Iberian Peninsula.
The color of these dogs is white, black and brown. They are also available in a
variety of shades as well as parti-colored and tri-colored.
The coat should be trimmed for the show ring and clipping should always be even.
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Equipment Needed
In Spain, combs and brushes are used, but they are never used in the UK. An Oster
No. 40 with a half-inch attachment is needed for this dog.
Procedure
These dogs are usually clipped once a year, but if you want a short coat, then twice
a year is acceptable. These dogs are shown when the coat is at least an inch in
length.
1. With the corded coat, the cords should not be combed out, but left in their
natural state. You can encourage the hair to separate at the body and use
water or a coat-enhancer to encourage the cords to come together.
2. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo that does not lather.
3. Rinse well in cold or lukewarm water.
4. Press the coat with an absorbent towel to extract excess water. Never rub
this coat.
5. Dry the coat naturally or in a cage dryer.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth. Tidy the ears and scissor around them to
shape them. Be careful not to trim the ears too short.
7. Check the feet for clogged hair.
8. The chin area can be tidied, as some dogs grow beards, which are not
desirable.
9. Dogs should only be clipped with an Oster No. 40 and ½ inch attachment.
They should never be scissored. This dog should look natural and not look
sculptured.
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Lesson 6
Long Coated Breeds
Most long coated breeds do not shed in the same manner that the shorthaired dogs
do. They do shed some, but it is not on the regular basis that short coated dogs
experience. The difference between long and short coated dogs is that when long
coated dogs shed, it falls and becomes tangled with the rest of the coat and may
cause matting.
Many longhaired dogs have been neglected to the point that their hair becomes a
giant matted mass and the skin cannot breathe when this happens. In such
instances, these dogs often need to be shaved short to remove the mass of hair.
Brushing on a daily basis is required to keep these dog's coats in top shape. At a
minimum, the dog should be brushed at least three times per week. Additionally, a
grooming conditioner or oil should be used on the coat. It should then be rinsed and
reapplied every seven to ten days. Also, when a conditioner is used after bathing,
the coat is less likely to mat and brushing the coat is much easier. Spraying dry hair
with an oily coat spray is also essential for these dogs. A coat should also not be
groomed when it is dirty, as this can pull out too much hair.
Many of the long coated dogs have their coats parted in the middle from the head to
the tail. This can be seen in the Lhasa Apso and Afghan. Several of these breeds
will also need a topknot to keep the hair out of their eyes. These include the:
Maltese
Yorkshire Terrier
Shih Tzu
Clipping
Clipping the stomach of dogs that are not going to be shown is a typical and practical
practice. This ensures that the stomach of pets will not become matted and tangled
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and also ensures proper airflow to the skin. This clipping can be done with an Oster
No. 10 blade and it can be taken right through to the chest to remove the hair and
underarm hair. When the dog is standing, the outer longhair of the coat will hide the
shaved stomach.
Some owners simply cannot deal with these long coats and choose to have the dog
shaved entirely. This is fine and much healthier for a dog whose coat would be
neglected and matted otherwise. To trim the dog, use a coarse blade such as the
Oster No. 5. Even Afghans can be clipped off leaving pompoms from the hock down
and a matching length on the front legs. This is often referred to as the Clydesdale
clip. This is much more comfortable on many of these dogs.
The long coated breeds that will be covered in this section include:
Afghan Hound
Bearded Collie
Briard
Chinese Crested (Hairless and Powderpuff)
Coton de Tulear
Havanese
Japanese Chin
Lhasa Apso
Maltese
Old English Sheepdog
Pekingese
Polish Lowland Sheepdog
Shih Tzu
Skye Terrier
Tibetan Terrier
Yorkshire Terrier
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Afghan
The coat of the Afghan should always be allowed to grow naturally. It is long and
finely textured. In mature dogs, the saddle hair is short and should not be formed by
any clipping. The hair should be long from the forehead back and should have a
distinct, silky topknot. The hair on the foreface should be short, but the hair on the
ears should be long. All colors are acceptable, but some colors produce a different
coat texture.
The silky coat needs a great deal of regular grooming. To keep these dogs pristine,
bathing and grooming should be done weekly. This is vital when the puppy goes
through a coat change at 14 months. This change takes place for the next couple of
years until the adult coat is established. Some dogs require brushing and bathing
every other day to control matting.
A water spray with a small amount of conditioner will make it easier to brush the coat
without breaking the hair. Ideally, the coat should be groomed following a weekly
bath.
If a dog is beyond grooming, it is best to clip the coat off completely and start over.
This should be done only after consulting with the owner. With today's mat-breaking
tools, you can often salvage a poor coat. However, if it is going to be particularly
stressful on the dog, then clipping should be considered.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush, but not one with plastic "nobbles" on the tips.
Procedure
1. Brush through the coat thoroughly with a pin brush using a spray-in
conditioner or de-matter to eliminate tangles and remove dead hair.
2. Use a mat breaker where required on mats in the coat.
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3. Apply conditioner to enhance the silky coat and prevent matting.
4. Towel dry to stop dripping.
5. Blow-dry with a brush and spray the coat with a fine mist of water and
conditioner. This will reduce static and help reduce damage while the coat
dries.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
7. Take care when working with the feet, which should not need trimming if the
dog is properly exercised, as Afghans are often sensitive around their feet.
8. Give a final brush with the coat spray to enhance the dog's appearance and
part the hair down the center of the body.
Bearded Collie
The Bearded Collie has a double coat, with a soft furry undercoat. The outer coat is
flat, strong, harsh and shaggy. The coat should be free from wooliness and curl.
They may have a slight wave. There is long hair and a beard on the face.
This coat needs constant attention to reduce tangles and to keep it looking good. A
leave-in conditioner is good for when brushing as it can make the task easier.
Equipment Needed
Good-quality bristle brush
Pin brush
Large, wide-toothed wooden comb
Metal comb with wide teeth on one end and thin teeth on the other
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Procedure
1. When grooming, it can often be easier to have the dog lie on its side.
However, you can choose whether lying or standing is easier on you.
2. Start with the bristle brush, lifting the coat up and starting at the bottom and
working through the layers of the coat. Brush in a coat-restorer or conditioner
to ease the separating of the hair. You can use an untangle cream when
necessary.
3. Work through the coat again with a pin brush. At this point, you will find any
mats that may exist.
4. A comb should be used after the coat has been completely brushed. If not,
the knots being pulled out can cause great pain. Do not bathe the dog if it is
matted. The coat should be tangle free prior to bathing.
5. Bathe the dog in a balanced shampoo and use a quality conditioner.
6. Blow-dry the coat while brushing continuously. Use a lanolin lubricant to
prevent the coat from breaking and to enhance the texture of the coat. Some
people use a straightening conditioner on these dogs as well. This is not
necessarily required as these dogs are allowed to have a wavy appearance in
the show ring.
7. The hair should then be parted along the back while combing out the
undercoat and leave it flat.
8. Check the dog's nails, ears and teeth.
9. In pets, scissor the hair beneath the feet and under the tail to keep the dog
clean and hygienic.
10. Thinning scissors or a de-matting can be used if the coat is very profuse, but
take care not to remove too much at a time.
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Briard
This breed features a flowing coat that requires regular and thorough grooming. The
beard, mustache and eyebrows should not be forgotten in regular grooming. The
hair is about 2 ¾ inches long and is slightly wavy with a dry, fine and dense
undercoat. These coats can become matted easily without regular care.
The maintenance on these dogs is fairly high. The coat will lose hairs into itself,
which can cause a matting problem if not removed regularly.
This breed should be clipped no shorter than two inches. An Oster No. 7 should be
used or you can scissor the dog. Anything shorter loses the breed's overall shape
and appearance.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Wide toothed comb
De-matter
Procedure
1. It is much easier to brush this coat if you use a coat conditioner. Use a de-
matter or untangle product on matted areas. If matting is bad, soak the coat
in a dematting conditioner for several minutes.
2. Use a slicker brush and comb to work through the coat. Mats can be teased
out using a pin brush to remove the undercoat. The dog should be completely
tangle free before bathing.
3. Bathe the dog in a protein shampoo as well as a conditioner.
4. Dry using a power dryer to remove excess water and then finish with a blower
while brushing.
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5. Check the nails, teeth and ears. These dogs have dewclaws. The breed has
double dewclaws on the back as part of its standard.
6. Check between the toes to remove any mats or clogged hair.
7. Trim off hair around the anus in pets for hygiene.
Chinese Crested
There are two distinct varieties of this breed. One is the famous "hairless" and the
other is the "powder-puff." The Hairless has hair on its head and partway down the
back. They also have hair around their feet, covering the toes. Finally, they have a
plume of hair on the tail. The rest of the dog's body is hairless, although a few may
appear here and there on the body. However, due to the various expressions that
the hairless gene may take on, some dogs are completely hairless. The Hairless
requires regular moisturizing, such as baby oil or lotion, to keep the skin healthy.
The Powderpuff is completely covered with long, soft hair, which is often referred to
as a "veil." The Powderpuff requires regular brushing and combing. The teeth of
these dogs also need regular cleaning.
Equipment Needed
Hairless
Bristle brush
Safety Razor
Powderpuff
Bristle brush
Wide tooth comb
Clippers
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Procedure
Hairless
1. The Hairless requires regular baths with a shampoo followed by moisturizer,
such as baby oil or lotion.
2. The crest, socks and tail plume should be blow dried and brushed.
3. Due to the dog's genetics, body hair may appear and it can be removed. Any
facial hair should be removed with a safety razor or an Oster No. 40 blade
used against the grain. This can also be used to remove excess body hair.
4. Towel dry and finish with a blower on the crest, socks and tail. Brush on the
hair and not on the body.
5. Check the ears, nails and teeth.
Powderpuff
1. The Powderpuff requires frequent brushing. It is also important to keep up
with the coat as the puppy transitions into the adult coat.
2. Any matting should be teased out by hand. Once knots are removed, work
through the coat with a brush.
3. Attention should be paid to the area between the front legs and just inside the
elbows. This is an area of frequent tangling and you can often have the dog
lie on its side while you remove any knots.
4. Regular bathing with a good-quality shampoo followed by Blow-drying will
keep the coat in shape. You may also need to use a detangling conditioner.
5. The coat should be brushed in layers. If you use a pin brush, be careful not to
poke the skin.
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6. Once dry, the face should be shaved with clippers, taking a line from the outer
corner of the eye to the ear and in a gentle curve from the ear down to the
"Adam's Apple." This cut is similar to how you would trim a Poodle's face.
However, in the US show ring, the Powder-puff's face is not shaved.
7. It is important to check between the pads for any matting or clogged hair that
can cause the dog discomfort.
8. After brushing and Blow-drying, finish off with a comb to remove any lasting
tangles.
9. Check the ears, nails and teeth. The nails should be moderately long.
Coton De Tulear
This dog has a characteristically dry coat that is more like cotton thread. These dogs
are considered to be hypoallergenic. The hair is white, biscuit, cream, black and
white or tricolor. The coat is about 5 inches long.
The coat is long, dry and nearly straight. It is important that these dogs are brushed
regularly to remove any undercoat that may cause matting. Pet dogs are often
trimmed shorter to keep the coat more of a manageable length.
This dog can stay pretty clean without too many baths as long as it is regularly
groomed. Most owners bring these dogs to the groomer on a monthly basis.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Wide toothed comb
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Procedure
1. Brush the dog carefully and do not bathe until all mats are removed.
2. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo.
3. Add conditioner to assist in brushing.
4. Blow-dry the coat, brushing with a pin brush and taking the hair away from the
head. Dry the coat in small sections to prevent matting.
5. If the dog is being shown, it usually helps to mist the coat with a spray in
conditioner as you brush.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
7. Check the pads for clogged hair and remove.
8. Brush over the coat using a grooming spray.
Havanese
This dog features a soft, silky and wavy coat. The coat may also be slightly curly.
This is a full-coated dog with an undercoat as well. Any color is acceptable in these
dogs. This coat is not trimmed for the show ring or pet purposes and regular
brushing is required. However, some pet owners have chosen to clip or scissor the
coat to make it a more manageable length. This dog should have a natural and
loose look about it.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Wide-toothed comb
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Slicker brush only on tough tangles, otherwise avoid it.
Procedure
1. Brush through the entire coat and remove tangles and then comb through the
entire coat.
2. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo.
3. Rinse well.
4. Apply a conditioner to enhance coat and help in grooming.
5. Blow-dry gently while brushing with a pin brush. Blow away from the skin.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
7. Check the feet for clogged hair.
8. Brush along the back and the dog will generally shake to create a natural part
in the coat.
9. The topknot can be tied up and away from the eyes, but this is not acceptable
in the show ring.
Japanese Chin
This dog has a profuse coat of straight and silky hair. It should not have any curl or
wave. The coat should not be too flat, as it has a tendency to stand out off the body.
The coat is colored with either black and white or red and white.
This coat sheds and mats, so regular brushing is a requirement.
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Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the coat with a pin brush and then a comb.
2. Bathe the dog in a natural or protein shampoo. Make sure to rinse
completely.
3. Use a conditioner to enhance the coat.
4. Blow-dry the coat gently while brushing away from the skin.
5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
6. Check under the feet for matted hair and trim away if necessary.
7. Brush the coat again. Start along the spine and out from there.
8. Clean the face.
Lhasa Apso
This dog is an impressive sight when in a full show coat. The coat is long, heavy,
straight and hard. It should not be silky or woolly. The undercoat is moderate and
the coat naturally parts down the spine.
Grooming is required regularly to keep the coat in top shape. The hair on the head
falls down the sides of the face, but is usually tied up when the dog is not being
shown or if it is a pet.
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To keep the coat in top peak, the dog needs daily care. It is best to start training
these dogs early to be on the grooming table. The younger they are the better to get
them well accustomed to being handled and groomed.
To achieve a good headfall on the dog, you will want to begin by banding a single
topknot when the coat begins to fall over the eyes. The band should be cut out when
removed to prevent pulling and breaking of the hair. Once the hair begins to get full
and heavy, this can be separated into two bunches. Face bands are a good idea as
well when the whiskers begin getting long enough that they become tangled in the
mouth.
The feet should have the hair trimmed out from between the pads beginning at an
early age. It is best to begin this process when the dog is young and if you can get
them to lie down while you do it, that's even better. Ideally, this process should
begin around the third or fifth month. A pair of slightly curved scissors will achieve
the best results when trimming the hair between the pads.
Bathing and blow-drying once per week will often produce a better looking dog than
just daily brushing. However, you definitely want to brush out any mats and use a
detangling spray between bathing. Pulling knots by hand should only be done when
necessary. Ideally, the knots should come out when you blow-dry and brush the wet
coat. Brushing the dry coat can cause split ends. It is imperative that shampoo is
completely rinsed. Use an absorbent towel to squeeze excess water out of the coat
and make drying faster.
A brush should only be used to brush the hair in layers from the skin to the end.
Either a pin brush or bristle brush will work well. The wide-toothed steel comb can
be used for finishing off the whiskers.
Some pets may be clipped short all over. This can be done with an Oster No. 4 or
No. 5 blade.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
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Bristle brush
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the coat beginning with the pin brush.
2. Comb the coat with a wide-toothed comb and use a grooming spray if
necessary to remove the tangles.
3. Bathe the dog in a protein shampoo.
4. Rinse thoroughly and use a conditioner to enhance the coat.
5. Blow-dry the coat in sections with a pin brush.
6. Check the dog's nails, ears and teeth.
7. Lightly spray with a coat conditioner and brush with a bristle brush.
8. Create a straight part down the back and brush the coat down on either side.
Maltese
The Maltese has a straight, silky coat. They do not have an undercoat and the coat
should never be crimped. The dog is always pure white, but slight lemon markings
are allowed. The tail should be well-feathered.
This breed needs a lot of attention to remain in pristine shape. The hair is parted
along the back from the head to the tail. The topknot is tied back with one or two
bows.
These dogs are often seen in a grooming shops with severe mats from top to
bottom. This is typically caused by owners bathing the dog and then allowing it to
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dry naturally and then not brushing or combing out the tangles. In these cases, the
only option is to cut them short-back-and-sides clip all over the body and start over.
To make the coat more manageable, it's common for the dog to be clipped down to
one inch all over. Use an Oster No. 5 to trim the hair prior to bathing. Condition,
blow-dry and clean-up any stray hairs. If clipped, the dog should look cute and
sweet.
When brushing the full coat, a grooming spray on the coat can assist in daily
brushing.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Bristle brush
Wide-toothed comb
Eye comb
Procedure
1. Brush out the entire coat with the pin brush.
2. Spray in a little condition spray.
3. Comb with a medium or wide-toothed comb and an eye comb. Always
remember to do this prior to bathing or the dog will mat.
4. Bathe the dog in a balanced or natural shampoo. Rinse thoroughly.
5. Apply conditioner and work through the coat. Rinse well.
6. Blow-dry the coat and brush the hair with a pin brush away from the skin. Do
not blow directly on the skin.
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7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. Finish with a light spray of grooming conditioner and groom with a bristle
brush.
Old English Sheepdog
This dog's coat has a harsh texture rather than straight. It should be shaggy, but not
curly. The undercoat is waterproof.
This dog needs a great deal of grooming attention. In ordinary circumstances, the
coat is not clipped or scissored. However, many pet owners and even retired show
dog owners are having the coat clipped to a length they can more easily manage.
These dogs need professional grooming monthly. This coat will become a solid mat
if not kept up with on a regular basis.
With pets, owners will often have the coat cut down to 2 inches. This can be done
by scissoring after bathing and drying. Or, you can clip with an Oster No. 40 and ¾
inch attachment. Other owners may not want the dog clipped, but rather some of the
hair thinned with the coat clipped under the stomach, arms and around the groin
area.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush or pin brush
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a slicker brush or pin brush. Work in sections
beginning with the back feet and working up. Where excessive, a mat splitter
may be used.
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2. Comb with a wide-toothed comb.
3. Bathe in a natural shampoo and vigilantly rinse. A white-enhancing shampoo
can be used for extra sparkle. It can also be used on the beard, as these
dogs often have saliva stains.
4. Apply a coat-enhancing conditioner.
5. Blow-dry, lifting the hair with a pin brush. Separate by sections to avoid
tangles.
6. Check nails, ears and teeth.
7. Check under the feet for matted hair and trim away with scissors.
Pekingese
The Pekingese has a long and straight coat with a profuse mane that forms a sort of
cape around the neck. The top coat is course and the undercoat is very thick.
Feathering on the ears is also profuse as well as on the legs and tail. All colors and
markings are allowed.
Brushing regularly is a necessity. On pets, it is common to clip the stomach, up
towards the chest and around the genitals. The clipping should not be seen unless
the dog is lying on its back. This helps keep the dog comfortable. This is not done
on show dogs. Wrinkles and folds in the dog's skin should have special attention
paid to them.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush or Pin brush
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Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the entire coat and remove any tangles, especially those in the
undercoat. Use a slicker or pin brush. Then comb through the entire coat.
2. Bathe in a natural shampoo and rinse very well. Use a facecloth on the head
rather than spraying it.
3. Blow-dry the hair in sections.
4. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
5. Check the feet for matted hair and cut it out.
6. Clean the eyes with a damp cloth and be certain that the folds of the face are
free from moisture.
7. Treat the coat with a coat dressing and brush to finish. The coat should part
along the back.
Polish Lowland Sheepdog
The coat of the Polish Lowland Sheepdog is long, dense, shaggy and has a harsh
texture. The undercoat is soft. Long hair should cover the eyes. The coat may have
a slight wave and all colors are acceptable.
These dogs need regular brushing at least three times a week. These dogs needs
frequent coat care. Lift the hair and work in sections while brushing and combing.
Equipment Needed
Slicker or Pin Brush
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Wide-toothed Comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the coat with a brush and then comb through.
2. Bathe in a natural shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
3. Apply a conditioner and rub it in well. Rinse well.
4. Comb again with a wide-toothed comb and add a light conditioning spray.
5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
6. Pet dogs may have their stomachs clipped and hair between the pads
trimmed.
7. Pet dogs may also be trimmed down to about 2 inches with an Oster No.
30/40 using a ¾ inch attachment.
Shih Tzu
The head of the Shih Tzu is the most attractive feature of this dog. The coat is long,
dense, not curly and has a good undercoat. A slight wave is permitted in the coat.
The hair on the head is tied up to keep it out of the eyes. The coat requires regular
brushing. Many pet owners choose to trim the coat down to a manageable length of
around four inches. You can do this with an Oster, No. 4, No. 5 or No. 7. The No. 7
is used on dogs that are heavily matted. The head may be trimmed short with
scissors or clipped to the same length of the body.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Wide-toothed comb
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Procedure
1. Brush thoroughly and remove dead hair from the coat.
2. Comb with a wide-toothed comb and apply a grooming conditioner when
necessary.
3. Bathe the dog with shampoo and rinse well. Apply a coat-nourishing
conditioner.
4. Blow-dry the hair, brush with a pin brush as you go and work in small
sections.
5. Check the teeth, ears and nails.
6. Check the dog's feet for matted hair and remove as necessary.
7. Check any wrinkles or folds on the face and clean with a damp pad.
Thoroughly dry as well.
8. Lightly spray with a finishing conditioner and brush through.
Skye Terrier
The Skye Terrier features a long and glamorous coat. The undercoat is short, close
and woolly. The outer coat is long, straight and flat. It should be free from curl. The
hair on the head is shorter and softer forming a veil over the eyes and forehead. The
majority of dogs have pricked ears, but some have drop ears that lie flat.
The coat needs weekly brushing and combing. You can prevent tangles after bathing
by pressing the coat rather than rubbing.
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Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a pin brush.
2. Comb through with a wide-toothed comb.
3. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo and use a conditioner to enhance coat
texture. Rinse thoroughly after using each product.
4. Towel the dog to remove excess water, but don't rub. Pat drying will prevent
tangles.
5. Finish drying with a blower and brush lightly with a pin brush.
6. Brush the coat, creating a part down the middle of the back and allow the hair
to fall gracefully on the sides.
7. Check the teeth, ears and nails.
8. The breed can be clipped all over with an Oster No. 5 if it is not a show dog.
Tibetan Terrier
The Tibetan Terrier features a double coat that consists of an undercoat and topcoat.
The undercoat is woolly and fine. The topcoat is profuse and fine. The topcoat is
not silky or woolly and is either straight or waved. The dogs should never be curled.
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The Tibetan Terrier requires frequent brushing and combing. It is common for pet
owners to have the dog trimmed back to a manageable length. When brushing,
work in sections, lifting as you go. Use water or a grooming spray to make the task
easier and to remove dead hair.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush or Slicker brush
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the entire coat using a slicker brush. Begin at the bottom of the
hind legs and work up a section at a time. Remove dead hair and mats as
you go.
2. A mat breaker may be needed to slice through felts in neglected coats.
3. Work through the coat with the comb after brushing.
4. Bathe the dog in a protein shampoo.
5. Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of shampoo and then apply a quality
conditioner.
6. Blow-dry the hair in sections while brushing with a pin brush.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. Check the feet and scissor out any mats. Leave hair between the pads for
protection, however.
9. Create a part on the spine and allow the tail to come forward over the back.
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10. Pets may have their stomach, underarms and inside thighs clipped. Use an
Oster No. 5 or No. 10. The hair should also be trimmed around the anal area.
11. The entire coat may be clipped down to about an inch in length to make pets
more manageable for owners.
Yorkshire Terrier
The coat on the Yorkie is often described as medium-long, but it often flows to the
ground on show dogs. It should be straight, not wavy, and glossy. The texture
should be fine and silky. The headfall is also long and a golden tan color.
A great deal of time can be put into keeping this coat looking its best. However, for
pets, this dog is often trimmed down to a more manageable length, as keeping the
long coat is a full time job.
Equipment Needed
Stiff bristle brush
Wide to medium toothed comb
Pin brush on woolly coats
Note: A slicker should never be used.
Procedure
1. Brush through and remove mats with a mat breaker and an anti-tangle cream.
2. Bathe the dog in a shampoo suitable for the dog's skin. Apply a conditioner or
dematting product to enhance the coat.
3. Blow the hair dry, brush continuously with a pin brush while drying.
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4. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
5. Use a spray in conditioner and brush through the coat with a bristle brush.
6. If the dog is to be clipped, use an Oster No. 5 or No. 7 prior to bathing. You
can also clip the body and leave "trousers" like a "lamb clip." The face is then
scissored or clipped to 1 inch leaving whiskers if the owner desires them.
Many pet owners like their Yorkies clipped like Schnauzers.
7. The show dog will need constant care and wrappers are often used on small
sections of the hair to keep it from breaking. This helps the coat to reach the
glamorous length these dogs are shown in.
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Lesson 7
MediumLength Coated Breeds
Dogs with medium length coats are often attractive and elegant dogs, as long as
their coats are properly cared for. These coats do require regular attention, but they
are not as time consuming as the longhaired breeds. These dogs are also common
visitors to the groomer as they need regular touch-ups to keep them looking their
best.
These dogs rarely mat, but it is possible if the coat is not cared for properly. These
dogs do tend to pick up burrs and debris, particularly if they are working animals,
such as the Border Collie or precocious, such as the Longhaired Dachshund. A bit
of trimming and some thinning is often required when these dogs visit the groomer.
This section contains several breeds of dogs that are known for having harsh coats
as well as silky coats. Those dogs that have silky coats do require special care and
conditioning.
Breeds covered in this section include:
Shetland Sheepdog
Australian Shepherd
Bernese Mountain Dog
Border Collie
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
Long Coat Chihuahua
Clumber Spaniel
Longhaired Dachshund
English Setter
English Toy Spaniel (King
Charles)
Flat-Coated Retriever
Golden Retriever
Gordon Setter
Irish Red and White Setter
Irish Setter
Irish Wolfhound
Papillon
Silky Terrier (Australian)
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Spinone Italiano (Italian
Spinone)
Sussex Spaniel
Tibetan Spaniel
Welsh Springer Spaniel
Shetland Sheepdog
The Shetland Sheepdog is a sturdy dog with a soft undercoat and harsh outer coat.
The mane and frill are very dense, as the dog was bred to withstand harsh winter
elements. The legs are well feathered as well. These dogs are fairly straightforward
to groom, but they do require a weekly brushing. It is particularly needed when the
dog sheds. This breed is very hyperactive and always on the go, so it helps to talk to
them while you groom.
Equipment Needed
Nylon or nylon and bristle brush with a rubber cushion
Medium-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a pin brush to remove dead hair.
2. Comb the coat with the wide-toothed comb.
3. If the hair is tangled, use a spray in conditioner. You may need a mat splitter
on the undercoat, as it is prone to matting. The brushing and combing
procedure can be hard on dogs that do not receive regular brushing.
4. Bathe in a balanced shampoo or a natural shampoo.
5. Rinse thoroughly.
6. Apply a conditioner. You may also use a purifying shampoo with toning
treatment for the skin. Nourish the hair at least three times a year.
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7. Towel dry to remove as much moisture as possible and then use a power
blower to dry. This coat absorbs a lot of water.
8. Brush the dog throughout the drying process with a pin brush.
9. Comb through the coat again.
10. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
11. Scissor the hocks so they have a neat appearance
12. Trim between the pads to remove tufts of hair and shape the hair around the
foot so that it is neat.
Australian Shepherd
This dog has a medium length coat that is straight or wavy and features a
weatherproof undercoat. The hair is short on the head and ears and the lower parts
of the legs. The backs of the legs may have some feathering. The mane is
moderate and more pronounced on males. These dogs are relatively easy to care for
with regular brushing, which should begin at a young age with a pin brush.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Comb
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a slicker brush to remove any dead hair.
2. Comb the coat to catch any stray dead hairs.
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3. Bathe the dog in a balanced shampoo or a natural shampoo.
4. Use a whitening shampoo on white parts of the coat and allow it to soak
before rinsing. Bathe the white parts first and then focus on the rest of the
coat to save time.
5. Condition the coat.
6. Use towels to remove as much moisture as possible.
7. Blow-dry the coat, brushing with a pin brush as you go. It is best to do this in
sections.
8. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
9. Trim the hocks with thinning scissors and clip away excess hair between the
pads of the feet and around the anus.
Australian Terrier
This dog has a harsh, straight and dense coat. The undercoat is softly-textured and
the ears are smooth. The lower legs do not have any dense fur or feathering.
This breed is trimmed in various countries for show purposes. Many pet owners clip
the body all over and you can do this with an Oster No. 7 blade. They are often
clipped similar to Schnauzers with the back clipped and trousers left on the legs.
The coat will tangle underneath if not combed weekly or twice a week.
Equipment Needed
Bristle brush
Wide-toothed metal comb
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Procedure
1. Brush all over, using a spray in conditioner if the coat is dry.
2. Comb with a wide-toothed metal comb.
3. Bathe in a balanced shampoo and rinse well.
4. Dry with a blower or in a cage dryer.
5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
6. Trim the hair from under the feet.
7. Strip loose hair from the body by hand or stripping knife. Leave the feathering
on the back of the legs.
8. Trim the tail for a neat outline.
9. Trim around the feet to neaten them.
10. Some owners may wish to have these dogs trimmed down to an inch of
length. These pets can have their body hair left, but the stomach and anal
area clipped with an Oster No. 10.
11. Use thinning scissors on the hocks.
12. Clip or strip the back of the ears for a neat appearance.
Bernese Mountain Dog
This dog has a silky coat with a fine undercoat. The coat should not be curly, but it is
often wavy. In general, these dogs need brushed once or twice a week after a good
grooming and bathing. These dogs are presented naturally, but may have some
trimming performed for a good outline and to tidy any unruly hairs.
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If the dog has matting, use a drop of baby oil on the mat and work it in. Then use a
wide-toothed comb to gently divide the mat. Work from the outside of the mat in. Be
careful not to pull on the skin while doing this.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Hard bristled brush
Medium and wide-toothed comb
Round-ended scissors
Procedure
1. Lightly spray conditioner to assist in brushing. Work from the head to the tail
in small sections. Brush the outer hair and then comb the same area. Take
care not to scratch the skin and remove all tangles.
2. Bathe the dog in warm water and a low lather shampoo. Rinse well and allow
the dog to shake before toweling.
3. Comb the coat again before drying.
4. Check the nails, teeth and ears. If the dog has dewclaws, be sure to trim
them.
Border Collie
The Border Collie has two coat types. These are either moderately long or smooth.
The undercoat is soft and dense, while the topcoat is medium-textured and dense.
The coat is pretty easy to care for requiring only a weekly brush down, as long as it
is maintained. These dogs can mat badly if the coat is neglected.
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Equipment Needed
Soft Slicker Brush
Medium-toothed Comb
Procedure
1. Brush the coat with a soft slicker brush.
2. Comb through the coat and remove any tangles or dead hair. Use a de-
matter if necessary.
3. Check the feathered areas and behind the ears for matting.
4. Bathe the Collie in a protein shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
5. About three times a year, these dogs need a purifying shampoo and mask.
This nourishes and enhances both the coat and skin.
6. Blow-dry or cage-dry.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. Scissor the hair to create a tidy and smooth appearance from the back hock
to the foot. Trimming should not be excessive.
9. Scissor the backs of the front legs to create a neat appearance as well.
10. Finish by brushing in a light spray of coat conditioner.
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Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
The coat is silky and free from curl. These dogs may have a slight wave in the coat.
There should also be plenty of feathering, none of which is trimmed in the show dog.
Many pet owners do prefer that the feet are trimmed of the feathering, especially
during the wet months. Some choose to have all feathering trimmed off.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Comb
Procedure
1. Brush thoroughly with the slicker brush. Comb to remove all tangles, using an
anti-tangle spray if necessary.
2. Bathe in a natural shampoo. Use a purifying shampoo and mask conditioner
to enhance the coat and skin every four months.
3. Dry with a blower, making sure you go along with the hair growth. Cage dry
after combing through the coat with a balsam conditioner.
4. Check the nails, teeth and ears.
5. Many pet owners like the thicker coated dogs to be thinned with thinning
scissors. Use these along with the growth of the coat and comb thoroughly
before thinning more of the coat.
LongCoated Chihuahua
These dogs have a soft coat that is neither wavy nor flat. There is a significant
amount of feathering over the entire dog and the tail should be a long, full plume.
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The large amount of fur around the neck is desirable. The coat is easy to maintain
with weekly brushing. These dogs love attention while being groomed.
Equipment Needed
Cushioned bristle brush
Medium-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the whole coat with a bristle brush and then comb to remove
tangles.
2. Bathe in a balanced shampoo.
3. Condition the coat with a coat-enhancing cream.
4. Blow-dry, brushing as you go.
5. Comb through the feathers.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
Clumber Spaniel
The coat of this dog is rather abundant and is close to the body with feathering on
the legs and chest. This coat needs weekly brushing to keep it in top condition. This
dog tends to have eye problems, so clean them as well.
Equipment Needed
Slicker Brush
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Comb
Procedure
1. Brush the coat with a slicker to remove dead hair and tangles.
2. Bathe the dog in a balanced shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
3. Apply a coat conditioner.
4. Dry with a blower and work along the growth of the hair to keep it close to the
body.
5. Check the nails, ears, teeth and eyes.
6. Tidy the hair from the back of the hocks and trim where necessary. Trim hair
off between the toes.
7. Thin the hair under the ears to allow them to lie flat.
8. Excess hair on the head may be thinned with thinning shears.
Longhaired Dachshund
The longhaired dachshund has a soft texture and the coat is either straight or slightly
wavy. No white is permissible on these dogs. There is red, black and tan,
chocolate, and dapple. The long coat is flat and silky needing only a regular
combing to remove tangles and dead hair.
Equipment Needed
Bristle Brush
Medium-toothed comb
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Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a pin brush or slicker.
2. Check for mats by combing through the coat.
3. These dogs need a bath with a good shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
4. Blow dry with a blower.
5. Check the nails. These should be regularly trimmed, but be careful as the
nerves and veins cannot be seen in them.
6. The ears should be wiped with cotton and the teeth need regular brushing.
7. Check under the tail and remove excess hair around the anus.
8. Lightly spray in a coat-finish with lanolin for sparkle, unless it is a show dog.
Setters
There are several different breeds of Setters and they are all groomed in a similar
fashion. These breeds include:
English Setters
Gordon Setter
Irish Red and White Setter
Irish Setter
The Setter's coat is trimmed to accentuate the dog's natural elegance. These dogs
should be clean with a tidy outline. Thinning scissors should be used only cutting up
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and into the lie of the coat. Scissors are not used on the back or sides of the dog as
this can ruin the coat permanently.
Clippers should not be used on the body as it will disrupt the flow of the coat. Some
Setters may have a thick and unruly coat, but resist the urge to clip.
When using thinning shears, only cut once or twice and then brush out the loose
hair. This will allow you to check that sufficient hair has been removed and you will
not inadvertently over trim.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Fine-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the coat and remove any tangles. Use an untangle cream if
necessary.
2. Turn your attention to the head next. The soft, down like hair that grows on
the head should be thinned by hand.
3. The hair under the neck grows upside down in a fan shape. With thinning
scissors, clean this area out until the hair blends on both sides of the neck
with the longer hair.
4. Thin the ears with thinning scissors, cutting upwards as you go. Repeat the
cutting until the hair is short and lies flat. Leave hair on the front edge of the
ear longer. Remove the hair from under the ears so that the ears lie close to
the neck.
5. Thin the tail with thinning scissors and remove hair from under the base of the
tail to about an inch. Brush the tail feathers and then measure the feathers
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against the top of the hock. The tail should stop at this level or slightly above.
Use regular scissors to remove all of the excess hair that falls past the end of
the tail.
6. The back of the front legs should be trimmed removing the excess hair that
can be found growing down the back of the hock towards the foot.
7. Trim the feet with a pair of scissors and trim the hair around the pads. To do
this, view the foot from the top. With the thumb, pull up all the excess hair
from between the toes and cut upwards from the nail toward the leg. Use
several cutting motions until all the hair is removed. This method should be
done on both the front and back feet.
8. Bathe the English setter in a balanced shampoo.
9. Rinse thoroughly and apply a conditioner.
10. Towel-dry the dog and blow dry along the hair growth. You can also cage-dry
and then comb through the entire coat.
11. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
English Toy Spaniel (King Charles)
This dog has a long, silky coat that is straight, although slight waves are allowed.
The coat should not be curly. The legs, ears and tail are feathered. The coat is fairly
easy to maintain with regular brushing. These dogs need daily brushing and
combing from early puppyhood. The coat should not be trimmed and any dead hair
should come out easily.
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Equipment Needed
Pin Brush
Medium-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the coat with the pin brush.
2. Comb through with a medium-toothed comb and remove all tangles.
3. Check the dog's skin. If you find dandruff, do not dismiss it as dry skin as
these dogs are susceptible to mites. Some dogs need a veterinary-prescribed
shampoo.
4. Bathe the dog in a shampoo and rinse well. Use a complementary
conditioner.
5. Blow-dry the dog in the direction of the hair growth.
6. Check the eyes and wipe with cotton soaked ball in an eye-cleansing solution.
7. Check the ears to ensure they are free of wax and use a dusting of canker
powder if necessary.
8. Check the nails and trim any excess foot hair.
Flat Coated Terrier
This dog has a dense and medium textured coat. The coat should lie flat. The legs
and tail should be well-feathered. This coat is very easy to maintain with regular
grooming. Frequent bathing will destroy the natural oils and lubricants in the coat,
which are vital because these dogs are working water dogs.
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Equipment Needed
Stiff brush
Wide-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Groom regularly, use a stiff brush and a wide-toothed comb. Pay attention to
the feathering, especially around the ears and elbows.
2. If a bath is absolutely necessary, wet the coat thoroughly and use a high-
quality shampoo.
3. After toweling, blow-dry the coat along the direction of the hair growth. Keep
the coat as flat as possible and close to the body.
4. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
5. Remove any hair from between the pads on the feet.
6. Tidy the outer edge of the foot and scissors.
7. Tidy hair from the hock to the heel of the foot. Use thinning scissors in this
area.
8. The ears should be close to the head, so they may need some thinning
beneath the ear. Any excess or dead hair on the ears should be plucked by
hand.
Golden Retriever
The Golden Retriever's coat is flat or wavy with a good amount of feathering. It is a
dense and water-resistant coat. This dog is a common frequenter of the grooming
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salon. However, maintenance is rather easy if kept up with on a weekly basis.
These dogs should be brushed daily. These dogs love attention, so grooming
should be made fun.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Comb
Procedure
1. Brush through the entire coat to remove dead hair.
2. Pay attention to the ears as these dogs tend to develop mats here.
3. Comb through the coat with a medium-toothed comb.
4. Bathe the dog in a balanced shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
5. Use a coat nourishing conditioner. About three times a year, these dogs need
a purifying shampoo and mask used to enhance the coat.
6. Towel-dry the coat and finish with a blower. Dry in the direction of the hair
growth.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. Trim off any excess hair from under the feet and around the hocks.
9. Thin under the ears to help them lie closer to the neck.
10. This dog should look natural, but the tail can be trimmed from the tip to form a
tapering plume.
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11. Show dogs are groomed and trimmed regularly. Pets may need trimming if
the fringe gets too long.
Note: Neutered and spayed dogs often develop heavier coats that need more
grooming attention.
Irish Wolfhound
The Irish Wolfhound has a rough and harsh coat. It needs brushing at least three
times per week and some finger stripping may be necessary to get the coat in good
condition. It is fairly easy to look after the coat. A bath ramp may be needed to help
the dog get into the tub, as they are rather large.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Comb
Procedure
1. On a monthly basis, this dog needs to have any bushy and unwanted hair
removed from under the neck and belly. Strip it out by hand. Scissors can be
used around the genitals, under the tail and to tidy up the feet.
2. Check the nails. These dogs tend to wear their nails down, but some may not
and the excess should be clipped away. Use a rasp weekly to file them so
that they do not get hot. Start this at a young age to get them used to it as
puppies.
3. Check the ears and clean with a cleaner weekly.
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4. Check the teeth.
5. These dogs should only be fully bathed once a year during the summer
months. Use warm water and a balanced shampoo.
6. Try not to remove the natural oils from the coat. Rinse well.
7. Towel-dry and allow the coat to dry naturally.
8. Do not use a conditioner on this dog as it will soften the coat.
9. A good-quality dry bath can be used at three month intervals. This will keep
the dog smelling good.
Papillon
This dog has a long, silky coat that requires regular brushing. It is abundant, but the
dog does not have an undercoat. It falls on the back and sides with a lot of frill on
the chest. The head has short hair, as does the muzzle and legs. This dog is easy
to maintain with weekly brushing. A special whitening shampoo can be used to
make the coat shine.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Comb
Procedure
1. Brush the coat with a pin brush and then comb through it to remove tangles.
2. Bathe in a balanced shampoo.
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3. Use a whitening shampoo on the white parts of the coat.
4. Apply a conditioner.
5. Towel and blow-dry the dog.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth. These dogs are susceptible to teeth
problems, so the owner should also check them regularly.
7. Check the feet and remove any excess hair.
Silky Terrier (Australian)
This dog has a glossy and silky coat. The coat is easy to care for with daily
brushing. If neglected, the coat will mat and will need to be groomed out with a
conditioning spray and a mat-breaker. Be careful not to get too rough and break the
hair.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Wide-toothed comb
Pure bristle brush
Procedure
1. Brush the coat thoroughly with the pin brush or a slicker brush. Then comb
through to remove tangles.
2. Bathe the dog in a mild shampoo and rinse well.
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3. Apply a good anti-tangle conditioner and comb.
4. After rinsing, dry with absorbent towel and dry the hair in layers with a gentle
blow from your hairdryer.
5. Check the nails, teeth and ears.
6. The hair is parted down the back. Finish off with a light brushing to fix the
part.
Spinone Italiano (Italiano Spinone)
The coat is thick, tough and slightly wiry. It is about 1 ½ to 2 inches in length on the
body, but shorter on the muzzle, ears and head. It is even shorter on the feet and
legs. The eyebrows are longer and the hair is stiffer.
This dog is very rustic and natural. The dog has a sort of disheveled look about it
that should be kept. These dogs should not be bathed to often and even show dogs
are frequently hosed down and allowed to dry on their own. Regular brushing will
remove any debris the dog picks up and a comb should be used on the head.
This dog's beard needs constant attention. They are also prone to ear infections and
the ears should be checked weekly. Ear powder can help as can removing hair from
the ears.
Many dogs are born with a softer coat, so hand stripping can be used to help
enhance the harsh coat texture they are used too. Stripping blocks are useful for
finishing and removing stray hairs.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
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Bristle brush
Comb
Procedure
1. Comb with a medium-toothed comb. Comb through the beard and mustache
to ensure that the dog has no mats or debris.
2. Strip the body and legs before doing the head. Dead hair should be stripped
by hand beginning with the neck and strip out the hair following the direction
of the lie of the coat.
3. Work down the neck along the body and down the legs. Remove all fringing.
Soften the hair in the anal and genital region. Strip the feet and trim to
enhance the shape. Strip the tail and remove fringing.
4. Strip the head so that it appears long and narrow. You also want to show off
the profile of the head and muzzle. Strip in front of the eye to give it a
Schnauzer-like appearance.
5. Starting behind the eyebrows, strip out the coat on top of the head and blend
into the neck. Strip out the sides of the head and down the ears. If the ears
are too short, leave a little hair to give a sense of length.
6. Comb the beard and shorten it to enhance the squareness of the face.
7. Using thinning scissors to shorten the eyebrows to about an inch. Be careful
not to create a hard line. The eyebrows must always look natural and never
long enough to fall forward.
8. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo.
9. Rinse thoroughly, making sure all of the suds are removed.
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10. Remove excess moisture from the coat with towels.
11. Comb the coat through and finish in warm air, either with a gently blower or
cage dryer.
12. Check the nails, ear and teeth. Check the dewclaws.
13. Check between the pads and remove excess hair.
14. If the dog is to be clipped instead of hand-stripped, de-mat the coat, bathe
and condition. Use an Oster No. 5 blade to clip the body and legs, starting
from the top of the neck down. Trim off the very long hair on the outside of
the ears, around the anal and genital region and between the pads.
15. Use an Oster No. 8 blade and clip the top and side of head back from the
eyebrows, blending into the neck.
Sussex Spaniel
This dog has a coat that is abundant and flat. The coat should not curl and should
have ample undercoat hair that is weather resistant. The forequarters and
hindquarters are well feathered and the tail is thickly covered in hair. Regular
brushing is essential. The natural look is required for this dog.
Pay attention to the ears, armpits and groin areas. The long hair can mat if
neglected for even a short amount of time. Clean the ears regularly to prevent
issues.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
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Wide-toothed comb
Scissors
Rubber thimbles
Procedure
1. Brush the coat, pay attention to the long hair on the chest, legs, inside and
outside the ears.
2. Comb with a wide-toothed comb.
3. Remove dead hair on top of the head, back, flanks and hindquarters by hand.
4. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
5. Check underneath its feet for matted hair and remove with scissors.
6. Sussex Spaniels are clean dogs and don't normally have an odor. Regular
bathing will destroy the natural coat oils that help to nurture the color of the
coat.
Tibetan Spaniel
The topcoat of the dog is silky in texture and is smooth on the face and front legs.
The dog has an undercoat that is fine and dense. The ears and back of the forelegs
are nicely feathered. The tail and buttocks have an ample amount of long hair. It is
often useful to brush the coat the wrong way before you brush and comb it back.
This ensures a good, tangle free coat.
Equipment Needed
Quality bristle brush
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Steel comb
Procedure
1. Brush the coat thoroughly and follow with a comb. Comb the tail, skirts,
feathering and ear fringes.
2. A pet dog does not need frequent baths and will keep themselves clean. A
natural shampoo will help to bring out the coat.
3. Rinse the dog well.
4. A conditioning cream can be used. Use these products sparingly or the coat
will become flyaway.
5. When dry, brush through the coat and comb through for a finishing touch.
6. Check underneath the feet and remove excessive hair.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
Welsh Springer Spaniel
This dog has a rich coat that is very striking. The coat is straight, flat and silky. The
forelegs and the hind legs above the hocks are moderately feathered. The ears and
tail are lightly feathered.
Trimming should not cause too many problems, but it should only need stripping or
thinning. The look should appear natural.
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Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Slicker brush
Medium-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Groom the coat with a pin, slicker or bristle brush.
2. Comb through to remove dead hair.
3. Use thinning scissors to shorten the hair below the hock joint.
4. Next, tidy up the feet so that they have a catlike appearance.
5. Thin out excessive hair on the dog's head for a smooth appearance.
6. Use thinning shears to tidy up areas that appear overdressed. The dog
should look trimmed, yet natural.
7. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo.
8. Rinse thoroughly.
9. Towel-dry the dog and finish in a cage and lightly blow-dry.
10. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
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Lesson 8
Shorthaired Breeds
The shorthaired dogs are rather tricky. You would naturally think that they are easy
to care for, but they actually shed more than longhaired dogs. Although they look
like "wash and wear" pets, they actually need regular grooming.
The key to keeping the shedding of these dogs from being a nuisance is to regularly
brush the dogs and use a hound glove to remove dead hair. You should also
regularly bathe these dogs while they shed to help remove any offending matter.
With trimmed breeds, it is advisable that you find out whether or not these dogs are
to be shown before trimming any straggly hairs. Many of these breeds are to be
shown natural and this hair cannot be removed. A stripping knife can also be used
on these dogs daily to keep them looking their best.
This section is somewhat different in that most all of these breeds have the same
bathing and grooming processes because they are shorthaired. For each breed,
there will be notes on special requirements that these dogs may have.
The breeds that are covered in this section include:
Greyhound
Affenpinscher
Australian Cattle Dog
Basenji
Basset Hound
Beagle
Bloodhound
Boston Terrier
Boxer
Bulldog
Bullmastiff
Bull Terrier
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
Chihuahua
Chinese Shar-Pei
Smooth Collie
Dachshund (Smooth and
Wirehaired)
Dalmatian
Doberman Pinscher
Foxhound
French Bulldog
German Shorthaired Pointer
Great Dane
Italian Greyhound
Labrador
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Manchester Terrier
Manchester Terrier (Toy)
Mastiff
Miniature Pinscher
Neapolitan Mastiff
Pointer
Pug
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Rottweiler
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Vizsla
Weimaraner
Welsh Corgi (Cardigan and
Pembroke)
Whippet
Basic Equipment Needed for Shorthaired Dogs
Hound glove
Bristle Brush
Fine Toothed Comb
Bristle Nylon Brush
Basic Bathing and Drying Procedure
Most shorthaired dogs will follow the same or a similar bathing process and drying
process.
1. Use a hound glove or brush to remove all the dead hair you can prior to
bathing.
2. Bathe the dog in a shampoo that is suitable for their skin type. Some
shorthaired breeds have skin allergies or dry skin and a natural or oatmeal
based shampoo is best for them. Rub the coat with the hound glove as you
work the shampoo into the coat.
3. Rinse thoroughly.
4. Remove excess moisture with towels and then allow the dog to dry naturally
or in a cage dryer.
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5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
6. Lightly spray the coat with a finishing conditioner and brush the dog with a
pure bristle brush to make them shine.
Greyhound
These dogs are easy to care for as the coat is fine and close. A bristle brush and
hound glove will help to remove hair when shedding. A rub down with a chamois will
remove any dust from the dog on a daily basis.
Affenpinscher
This dog has a unique appearance in that it's supposed to look somewhat
disheveled, or "shaggy but neat" as the American Kennel Club would put it. When
grooming these dogs, don't try too hard to make them look tidy. Additionally, these
dogs are supposed to have a monkey face look to them. The hair around the face
may be trimmed to make it round, but the beard is left long for show dogs. Some pet
owners like the beard shortened. The feet should be neat and cat-like in appearance
and may need some trimming, especially in show dogs.
Remember, because this dog is a natural breed, it should need little coat attention
other than brushing and combing.
Australian Cattle Dog
These dogs are natural and do not require trimming. They do need regular brushing,
paying attention to the longer hair behind the legs and under the body.
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Basenji
This dog is easy to maintain with regular brushing. A sisal brush and hound glove
will keep their coat in top condition and remove dead hair when the dog is shedding.
Basset Hound
The Basset is a fun dog to groom just because they have amazing personalities.
They are easy to maintain with regular brushing, but the dog's wrinkles do need
checking on a regular basis. The wrinkles should be free from wet patches or
soreness.
Beagle
The Beagle is an easy dog to maintain and just requires a daily brushing and
occasional bath. A hound glove is excellent for removing shedding hair and you can
use a chamois cloth to give them some shine.
Bloodhound
The Bloodhound requires little special care other than regular brushing. The facial
wrinkles and folds should be checked to ensure they are dry and no sores have
developed. Some of these dogs may need a special skin treatment.
Boston Terrier
The Boston Terrier is very easy to care for and does well with regular brushing and a
hound glove. Any wrinkles should be checked to ensure that they are dry.
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Boxer
The Boxer is an easy dog to maintain and requires little grooming to look
outstanding. These dogs are full of energy and can be a handful while grooming.
Use a whitening shampoo to enhance any white markings on the dog.
Bulldog
The Bulldog is a very friendly animal that requires little special attention. They just
need to have their facial folds checked regularly to ensure there are no sores
developing and to remove any moisture.
Bullmastiff
This dog is easy to maintain, but they do need the occasional bath and brush down.
The facial folds should also be checked regularly.
Bull Terrier
This dog needs little maintenance, but will enjoy a good brush down.
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
This dog features an oily, thick and waterproof skin. Grooming is easy for these
dogs and they are best groomed with a stiff brush. These dogs are water dogs, so
bath time can be particularly fun.
Chihuahua
These dogs are very easy to maintain with weekly brushing, unlike their longhaired
cousins. They do not need frequent bathing unless they are very dirty. A bath every
three months or so will suffice.
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Chinese SharPei
This dog needs no trimming and is only bathed infrequently. However, care must be
taken on their ears and nails. The folds and wrinkled skin should also be checked to
ensure they are dry.
Smooth Collie
The Smooth Collie has a short outer coat that is resistant to water. The dog requires
little maintenance, only a rub down with a damp chamois on occasion. A weekly
groom with a Mason Pearson bristle brush will suffice. These dogs are noted for
being very clean animals themselves. The coat sheds twice a year and daily
brushing may be required.
Dachshund (Smooth and Wirehaired)
The Smooth Dachshund requires little maintenance other than a brush down. The
wirehaired dachshund needs stripped twice a year with a stripping knife. The
Wirehaired should be tidy with the hair neat and flat. Long hair that grows under the
eyes and ears should be removed and the beard should be combed forward. It is
better to strip these areas by hand. Long hairs under the tail should also be
removed and the feet should be trimmed. Hair from the front of the forelegs should
also be removed. Strip away hair from the hocks so they have a good, clean shape
on the hind legs. These dogs love following their noses, so they often need their
faces cleaned up.
Dalmatian
The Dalmatian will benefit from regular grooming, as plenty of hair will come out
when they shed. When the Dalmatian is bathed, be vigorous in removing as much
dead hair as possible.
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Doberman Pinscher
These dogs will benefit from regular grooming with a sisal brush and hound glove.
Foxhound
This coat is easy to maintain. They are very energetic, so be prepared for an
interesting session. Mink-oil spray will enhance the color of their coat.
French Bulldog
The French Bulldog needs regular brushing. Pay attention to the ears, facial
wrinkles and the base of the tail, as these need to be kept thoroughly clean.
German Shorthaired Pointer
These dogs are easy to maintain with a simple bristle brush and hound glove.
Great Dane
The Great Dane is easy to maintain as they are naturally clean dogs. Do be aware
that they can be a challenge to get into a bathtub without a ramp or stairs. It is
definitely a two person job lifting this dog into the tub.
Italian Greyhound
This dog is easily cared for with daily attention. A velvet pad or piece of silk will
enhance the coat and remove any dust.
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Labrador Retriever
The Labrador will maintain a good coat with regular brushing. A bath twice a year is
generally sufficient. They love water and are generally easy to bathe.
Manchester Terrier (Standard and Toy)
This dog is very easy to maintain, but the coat can be enhanced with a cloth for
polish.
Mastiff
The mastiff needs regular brushing to keep the coat in good condition. It will also
benefit from a good bath. These dogs are known for their slobbering, so be aware.
Miniature Pinscher
This dog is easy to maintain with just a little brushing.
Neapolitan Mastiff
Like the Mastiff this dog is easy to maintain. The folds and wrinkles must be kept
dry, although this can be a challenge with all of the slobbering. Have a towel ready
for their constant dribbling.
Pointer
This dog is easy to care for with regular brushing and a hound glove.
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Pug
The Pug is easy to maintain with regular brushing. They do need their facial folds
checked on a regular basis. They may also have eye, ear and nose problems that
should be checked regularly. They should also be cleaned regularly.
Rhodesian Ridgeback
This dog will benefit from regular brushing and a hound glove. They are very easy to
care for.
Rottweiler
These dogs are also easy to maintain. They do need brushing about three days a
week.
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
This dog needs no trimming and only regular brushing. They are very easy to
maintain. They also like water and enjoy a good bath.
Weimaraner
There are actually two types of Weimaraner – short and long coated. The
shorthaired variety is very easy to maintain, requiring only a bath as necessary and a
hound glove. The longhaired variety has a coat that is about 1 to 2 inches in length.
There is feathering on the tail and back of the legs, which will need special attention.
Brushing at least three times a week is recommended. Pay special attention to the
feathering and long hair for tangles.
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Welsh Corgi (Cardigan and Pembroke)
These dogs are low to the ground so the Corgi's stomach can collect dirt, twigs and
other debris. They are overall very practical dogs and easy to maintain.
Whippet
This dog is easy to keep and maintain. They require very little other than a bath and
a good rub down with a hound glove.
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Lesson 9
The Stripped Breeds
As you have learned, there are several ways that you can strip a dog. This can be
done by hand, knife, rolling, thinning shears or clippers. However, there are some
things to keep in mind when stripping. For instance, using clippers on some breeds
will disrupt their natural hair growth and the dog may become woolly. On the other
hand, hand-stripping can take hours, while it could only take five minutes to clip!
It is up to you as the groomer to discuss the best way to groom this dog. Among the
issues to keep in mind include how long it will take, the time available to do it, the
stress involved and other expenses involved. For a professional groomer, if the dog
is to be shown then it up to you to keep the clippers away from the dog and the show
dog should be groomed with a manual stripping method. On the other hand, if the
dog is only a pet, clipping may be an option that is available.
Show Dogs
When working with show dogs, it is up to you to keep up with the kennel club's breed
standards. Those dogs that are going to be shown will require different shapes and
methods used to achieve the desired look.
Terriers
Terriers were once trimmed yearly or twice a year. However, today it is more
expected to keep these dogs looking their best and trimming them up on a six to
eight week schedule. If they are shown, they may require more frequent grooming.
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The breeds that will be covered in this section include:
West Highland White Terrier
Airedale Terrier
Brussels Griffon
Cairn Terrier
Fox Terrier (Wire and Smooth)
Parson Russell Terrier
Schnauzer (Miniature, Standard and Giant)
Scottish Terrier
West Highland Terrier
The Westie's coat needs constant attention to keep it looking smart and clean. The
outer coat consists of 2 inches of harsh hair and the undercoat is soft and close.
Westies are stripped, thinned or clipped. This will depend on whether or not the dog
is to be shown. These dogs are also known for the tangles and mats that they
develop on the bottom of their bodies.
When clipped, these dogs are not clipped very close. Use an Oster No. 4 or No. 5,
unless the owner requests a shorter trim. The face is never clipped, but tidied and
rounded with scissors.
Equipment Needed
Stripping knife
Clippers
Slicker brush
Wide-toothed comb
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Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat and remove tangles. Use an anti-tangle spray if
necessary.
2. Trim the neck from about 2 inches behind the ears and work downwards over
the shoulder using a stripping knife. Incorporate the chest as you go. Work
along the body to the tail, down the sides to a level line from the elbow to the
pelvis. This will leave a skirt of feathering.
3. Trim the tail using a stripping knife or by hand-plucking. You can use thinning
shears or clippers on a pet. An Oster No. 40 with a ½ inch attachment can
give a hand-stripped appearance.
4. Trim the hair from under the tail and around the anal area. Clip or scissor
gently around the genitals, being very careful.
5. Strip or lightly clip the upper side of the tail and blend with scissors.
6. Bathe in a white-enhancing shampoo and apply a conditioner if necessary.
7. Blow-dry the dog while brushing with a pin brush or slicker brush.
8. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
9. Trim off any hair lifted from bathing.
10. Blend the skirt into the body with a stripping knife or thinning shears. You
want a balanced appearance with no "step" effect.
11. Comb through hair on the head and allow the dog to shake.
12. For the ears, strip away hairs with a knife or thinning shears. Neaten the
edges with scissors if there is excess hair.
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13. From the back of the neck, scissor the head round in a forward action to the
chin hair to form the "chrysanthemum" appearance the dog is known for.
14. Indent the top with thinning scissors to remove enough hair to reveal the dog's
eyes.
15. Pet dogs are often scissored on the legs about 4 inches in a downward blend.
The skirt is often shortened at the bottom as well. Some will be clipped on
their stomachs, chest and genital areas as well.
16. Some pets are clipped all over, aside from the head, with a No. 4 or No. 5.
These dogs can look very good when clipped, but they should not be clipped
down to the skin. Even when matted, the coat can be saved by careful
clipping.
Airedale Terrier
The Airedale has a waterproof double coat. It is a hard, dense and wiry coat, but
should not appear to be ragged. The outer coat is stiff and wiry, while the undercoat
is short and soft.
The daily maintenance for this dog is a good daily brushing. The dog needs a
professional stripping about three or four times per year. Hand-stripping must be
done on show dogs, but pets can be clipped. Clipping is less stressful and far less
time consuming and good for pets. With regular clipping on these dogs, the
undercoat tends to take over and the coat may become soft and lose its color. This
is not tolerated in the show ring, but is fine for a pet.
Equipment Needed
Terrier pin-pad brush
Wide-toothed comb
Narrow-toothed comb
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Clippers or Stripping tools
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a terrier pin-pad brush.
2. Evenly and closely trim from the back of the head down into the back.
3. Trim the level of the back, but not as close as the neck area.
4. The front parts of neck and the brisket are trimmed very close, leaving just a
bit more hair as you work down to where the front legs join the body.
5. The shoulders should be trimmed evenly and closely.
6. The front legs should be trimmed for a straight appearance. This can be done
with scissors as you take off only the hair that stands out. Next, trim from the
rear line. Trim out a few hairs from the left and outside of the front legs where
they join the shoulder to give a straight line and from the top of the shoulder to
the feet and from the chest to the tips of the toes.
7. Shape the ribs to follow the body, work the hair evenly from a closely trimmed
back to a fairly heavy coat on the underpants of the ribs and chest. On the
under part of the chest, only remove hairs so that the dog does not appear
shaggy. Trim under the line of the chest to follow the bodyline.
8. Next, strip the hair in the loin area down closer than the chest, but do not
make it too fine. The underline should be trimmed loosely to emphasize the
tuck-up.
9. Do not take all the hair off the belly, only a few hairs that are snarled or
shaggy.
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10. For the hind legs, trim so that the back is fine, but the thighs and hind legs are
heavily coated.
11. From the middle of the thigh to the hock, trim out the shaggy hairs.
12. The back line of the hock should be trimmed straight. The hock should have
a rounded outline without excess hairs.
13. Trim the insides of the back legs to a clean finish and ensure they are straight
from a rear view.
14. Trim the tail closely to the tip and towards the head. Trim the rear finely as
well, just to where it joins the thighs creating a clean rear end area with
shaggy thighs.
15. Trim the head close and the eyebrows evenly at the outside corner of the eye.
There should be plenty of length on the inside of the eyebrow.
16. Trim the cheeks closely from the outside corner of the eye to the outside
corner of the mouth.
17. Trim very slightly from the inside corner of the eye, down to the corner of the
mouth to achieve the breeds characteristic expression.
18. Trim the hairs on top of the muzzle from slightly between the eyebrows to the
nose so that there is a straight line from the top of the head to the nose.
19. Leave the chin whiskers, brushing them forward. Clean under the jaw from
the corner of the mouth to the back of the neck.
20. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
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21. Avoid bathing unless absolutely necessary. Brushing is often enough to keep
the coat clean. Use a mild shampoo and rinse thoroughly when you do bathe.
It is best to towel-dry the dog and leave them to dry naturally.
22. You may clip the dog if it is a pet and not a show dog.
Brussels Griffon
There are two types of Brussels Griffon, the smooth coat and the rough coat. The
smooth coat is quite easy to care for needing only to be brushed and hair between
the toes removed. You should also remove the curled hair on the tip of the tail. A
fine comb is helpful to help remove shedding hair as well. The tail can be trimmed
underneath for hygienic purposes. The rough coat requires more detailed stripping.
Equipment Needed
Bristle Brush
Small Slicker
Medium-toothed comb
Fine-toothed comb
Thinning scissors
Tweezers
Procedure
1. Begin by working through the coat with a bristle brush and comb. Lift a few
hairs on the back between your finger and thumb and gently pull. If the hair
comes out easily, the dog is ready be stripped.
2. Begin stripping the top coat at the dog's withers (space between shoulders)
and continue down the back and the side of the tail. Always strip with the hair
growth towards you.
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3. Remove the long hairs from the dog's thighs while maintaining a balanced
outline.
4. Remove the thick hair that grows on the back of the hind legs below the hock.
Remove the longest hairs from the front of the legs and feet. Over-stripping
here can make the feet look too long.
5. Strip the shoulders around to the chest and remove the long hairs from the
leg.
6. Strip the long hair on the outside of each shoulder and down to the elbow for
a straight front.
7. Strip the chest at the lowest point.
8. Scissors or an Oster No. 10 can be used on the stomach and around the
genitals.
9. Look over the dog and remove any stray hairs.
10. For the head, begin behind the eyes and strip only a few hairs at a time.
Work back to each ear over the top of the head. Leave some longer hairs
over the eyes to form eyebrows. Strip the back of the ears down to the chest.
Continue down the sides of the neck towards the jaw bone to develop the
dog's distinct beard. Blend into the chest.
11. Comb the beard forward to enable you to pluck the ears and below the beard
to the throat to give a clean neckline. Remove long hairs from the inside of
the ear. The edge of the ear can be closely trimmed with scissors to give a
neat finish.
12. The stop (the point between the eyes and just above the nose) is a tender
part of the body and may need to be tweezed.
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13. Hairs from the corner of the eye should be tweezed to keep them from
sticking into the eye.
14. The hair of the beard that meets the ears can be removed in a direct line from
each eye.
15. Tidy around the anus with scissors or thinning shears.
16. Trim hair out from under the feet and between the toes.
17. Bathe the dog in a natural shampoo and rinse well.
18. Towel-dry thoroughly and then cage dry or lightly blow-dry.
19. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
Cairn Terrier
This dog has a weather resistant double coat. The outer coat is harsh, but not
coarse while the undercoat is short, soft and close. This dog is usually hand or
knife-stripped, but pets are often clipped. Unfortunately, clipping ruins the coat and
causes it to become too soft.
Equipment Needed
Clipping/Stripping materials
Scissors
Stiff bristled brush
Fine and coarse-toothed combs
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Procedure
1. Brush the coat to remove dead hair and tangles.
2. Use a spray in conditioner on neglected coats.
3. Remove hair from under the feet and around the anal area with scissors.
4. Where stripped, go through the coat with the growth of the hair from the neck
downwards stopping at the tops of the legs creating an imaginary line from the
tops of the front legs, down slightly across the body and up over the stifle and
the tops of the hind legs.
5. Bathe in a natural shampoo and condition if required.
6. Dry with a blow-dryer after toweling.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. The underneath of the body can be clipped with an Oster No. 10 to remove
unnecessary hair.
9. Use thinning scissors to tidy the head and give an indentation between the
eyes.
10. Trim the tail upwards to balance with the stripping of the coat.
Fox Terrier (Wire and Smooth)
There are two varieties of this dog. The smooth coated dog does not require the
attention that the wirehaired dog does. The smooth coated dog can be cared for the
same as the other shorthaired dogs. The wirehaired dog has a dense coat and
requires stripping.
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Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Combination comb
Ordinary scissors
Thinning scissors
Stripping knife
Procedure
1. Brush the coat with a pin brush and then go through with the comb.
2. Hand or knife-strip the neck and body of the dog down to the tops of the legs,
with a slight arch over the hind legs.
3. Clip the stomach and inside of the groin.
4. Hand or knife-strip the head from the eyebrows to the base of the head, down
both sides of the ears and under the ears.
5. Trim from the outer corner of the eye and under the neck to taper to a V at the
throat.
6. Ears should be hand stripped or plucked. Use scissors to neaten the edges.
7. Bathe the dog in a mild shampoo.
8. Towel-dry in the direction of the coat. Brush the coat to keep it flat. Use a
handheld dryer when drying. Avoid a cage-dryer as it will lift the coat.
9. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
10. Go over the trimmed parts to remove lifted hair.
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11. Comb through. Comb the eyebrows and pull the hair to create a V-shape in
the center. Use scissors to tidy the ends.
12. Trim hair out from between the pads and give the foot a round appearance.
13. Comb forward and trim the beard.
14. Strip the legs so that the have a tubular shape.
15. Trim the chest fringe and under the chest following the shape of the body.
Parson Russell Terrier
This dog has a naturally close, harsh and dense coat. They are available in three
types including smooth, broken and rough. The broken coat is a combination of the
rough and smooth coat. Little maintenance is necessary for these dogs, but those
that are shown should be stripped. Bathing is not recommended unless it is very
necessary. Show dogs are never clipped. Pets may also require stripping to look
neat and clean. A hound glove can be used to remove dead hair when the dog
sheds.
Equipment Needed
Comb
Bristle Brush
Procedure
1. Brush the coat and use a fine comb to remove dead hair.
2. Strip the body with a serrated knife.
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3. Trim around the feet.
4. Bathe only if necessary and use a hound glove to remove dead hair.
5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
Schnauzer (Miniature, Standard and Giant)
Although these three dogs are classed as individual breeds, their grooming
procedure is the same. The topcoat is harsh and wiry. It is slightly shorter on the
neck and shoulder, but should blend with the rest of the body. These dogs are
frequent visitors to a grooming salon and will be stripped, clipped and sometimes
rolled. The coat needs regular brushing with a slicker. The coat is stripped
completely twice a year.
Equipment Needed
Trimming scissors
Two slicker brushes, one small and soft for the face and one that is harder for
the rest of the body.
Terrier pad
Procedure
1. Starting with the head, strip the top, the neck and the body down over the
shoulder to where the legs join the body.
2. Work along the back and down the back legs to blend the coat.
3. Follow the underline through to the rump and down to just above the
indentation of the hock and tail.
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4. Trim the tail by hand or knife-strip. The underside of the tail is trimmed short.
5. Clip the ears downwards with an Oster No. 10. Use thinning shears to
shorten the hair. Tidy the edges with scissors.
6. Clip the cheeks, under the throat and down the front of the chest.
7. The belly can be clipped to incorporate the insides of the groin. Leave part of
the rib cage to be tapered up with scissors to make a short fringe to enhance
the contours of the body.
8. Brush the coat using a fine spray conditioner and to help remove tangles.
9. Comb through the coat.
10. Bathe in a natural shampoo.
11. Towel-dry and finish in a cage dryer.
12. Tidy the trimmed parts to remove stray hairs.
13. Comb the eyebrows and beard forward. Scissor diagonally from the bridge of
the nose to the outer corner of the eye. Make a small inverted V-shape
between the eyes to make the eyebrows distinct.
14. Use scissors to trim between the eyebrows and create a diamond shape.
15. Scissor the edges of the ears to a rectangular shape.
16. The hair on the chest (between the legs) should be scissored smooth and flat.
17. Scissor the front legs for a smooth appearance.
18. Scissor the feet so they are round and cat-like.
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19. Check the ears, nails and teeth.
Scottish Terrier
The Scottie has a dense and close-lying coat. It requires regular brushing at least
three times a week.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Wide-toothed comb
Stripping knife
Clippers
Scissors
Procedure
1. Brush the dog with a slicker to remove dead hair and tangles.
2. Clip with a No. 10 from the eyebrows to the back of the head. Clip to the base
of the ears, down the cheek and in a line from the outer corner of the eye to
the outer edge of the mouth.
3. Clip a narrow strip between the eyes to within 1 ½ inches of the nose.
4. Use scissors to shape the ears and leave tufts at the bases.
5. Hand or knife-strip down the head, the neck and the body, leaving a skirt just
above the elbow. Pet dogs may be clipped, but show dogs should never be
clipped.
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6. Continue trimming down the back, taking in the sides to a line level just above
the elbow to the bottom of the pelvis.
7. Trim the upper part of the tail by stripping or clipping.
8. Clip carefully under the tail and around the anal area with a No. 10.
9. Clip the abdomen area.
10. Clip down the front of the dog, below the throat to the breast bone and blend
into the sides.
11. Bathe the dog in a suitable shampoo.
12. Blow-dry the coat with the growth of the hair. Brush the long hair with a
slicker or pin brush.
13. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
14. Blend the skirt in with the body.
15. Trim the feet to neaten them.
16. Cut hair short between the pads and toes.
17. Comb the eyebrows and beard forwards.
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Lesson 10
The Poodle
The Poodle is the most unique dog to trim as there are many options. There are so
many different styles that these dogs can be trimmed into. The Poodle also has a
unique coat in that it doesn't shed.
The Poodle's coat does need constant attention. Those coats that are neglected
easily become tangled and matted. In the past, the only way to deal with these mats
was to clip the dog, but today there are several options in the form of mat-breakers
and conditioners. The groomer has a larger arsenal of options available to them
today that will prevent them from having to start over completely on the Poodle.
Poodle Ear Care
Poodles also have hair that grows inside of their ears. This is part of the groomer's
job to deal with and it is best to learn how to do this painlessly by an experienced
groomer. You should lift the ear against the head, hold the muzzle then use forceps
to pull out bits of hair at a time. Grooming powder can be used to help loosen the
hair.
When there is brown wax in the ears, then the dog probably has ear mites. The ears
should be cleaned with alcohol or ear cleaner and then an ear powder applied. Then
remove as much of the wax as possible, applying ear powder afterwards as well.
Owners may need to do this daily until the issue clears up.
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Scissoring
In the grooming process, Poodles also need a lot of scissor work performed. This
allows you to achieve a smooth and satin-like finish. Different scissors will also give
you different finishes in the dog.
These dogs should be finished by skimming over the coat with the scissors to
provide an accurate edge to the coat. This will help the coat to grow more smoothly.
Because the coat grows and moves constantly, it has a natural tendency to curl,
even when you use straightening products.
Clipping
The Poodle needs to have the face, feet and tail clipped. There are certain rules that
apply when clipping these dogs:
1. It is safer to use clippers with the growth of the hair rather than against it,
except on the feet. This will keep you from grazing the skin.
2. Always clip away from the eyes.
3. Use a clipper lubricant every 10 minutes or less. Also, check the blade for
heat by putting it to your face. If it feels more than warm, change the blade.
Dogs have been burned by hot blades and this can make them fear grooming.
Clipping the Feet
Use blades that are meant for a close finish on the dark colored dogs only. The feet
can take a little closer blade without too much reddening occurring, but their faces
cannot. Use an Oster No. 40 on the feet.
1. Start at the rear right foot, hold the leg just below the hock joint and just above
the foot. Be certain that the foot is under the dog and not pulled out to the
side.
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2. Gently press the toes open with your fingers and clip the hair away from
around the nails. Flex your wrist to get into these areas, not the dog's foot.
3. Clip up each toe one at a time. Be careful not to cut the web of the foot.
4. Clip each foot in turn and check the blade for heat.
Clipping the Face
For the face, use an Oster No. 10 blade for most pets. If the coat is thick, use a No.
15. Always keep the blade as flat as possible and don't put too much pressure on
the skin. It is better to start with a No. 10 and take off more hair than to start with a
No. 30 and cause clipper rash.
1. Hold the muzzle in the right hand, fold the ear back over the head and clip
from the corner of the eye to the upper corner of the ear.
2. Clip under the eye to the inner corner and then from between the eyes down
to the tip of the nose.
3. Clip from under the eye towards the muzzle to the nose. Do the same on the
other side of the face.
4. From the base of the ear, clip to the point of the throat (the Adam's Apple.)
5. Clip the chin from the edge of the mouth to the nose. Be sure to tighten any
loose skin.
6. For the show dog, the neck is clipped into a U-shape. This involves shaving
down to an inch or two above the breastbone. This will emphasize the length
of the neck.
Clipping the Tail
Use a No. 15 Oster on the tail.
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1. Clip a third of the tail (usually docked) from the base. Leave enough hair on
the end so that it creates a pompom.
2. Clip under the tail with a No. 10 blade. Be careful around the anus.
Clipping the Body
There are several different body clipping options available for the Poodle depending
on the style that you are going for.
Lamb Clip
The Lamb Clip leaves a pompom on the tail and trousers on the legs. The rest of the
body, the face and the feet are clipped. In the summer, use an Oster No. 5 and in
the winter use an Oster No. 4. This will give the dog a longer finish for the weather.
1. Clip from the base of the dog's head, just below the ears, down the top and
underneath the neck. Follow the direction that the hair grows.
2. Lift the leg and clip under the arm and along the chest to the groin.
3. Clip the neck to just above the shoulder, down the back of the tail and just
above the hip. Clip along and downward over the rib cage to the groin.
4. Clip the stomach and groin, taking care around the genitals. Always hold
these delicate parts as you groom for safety.
5. Brush through the remaining hair and remove all tangles with slicker brush.
Use a mat-breaker if there are mats.
6. Bathe the Poodle in natural shampoo or enhancing shampoo depending on
the dog's color.
7. Use a quality conditioner to assist in scissoring.
8. Blow the coat dry, brush all the time in sections going upwards.
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9. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
10. Tidy all clipped areas where necessary.
11. Hem the leg hair by neatening and blending the edge of the hair at the bottom
of the leg.
12. Scissor the legs going with the contour of the body. Work in a vertical fashion
blending each section as you go. Do not scissor crossways except when
hemming around the feet. Skim across the hair to blend any strays.
13. Holding the dog's muzzle, comb the head hair forward and scissor a topknot
across the eye upward.
14. Comb the hair to the left and trim across the top of the ears and back of the
neck. Do the same on the right side.
15. For the tail, hold the pompom in one hand, then cut straight across allowing
the hair to fall and comb outwards. Hold up the tail at the tip and comb the
hair outwards and use your scissors to create a round appearance.
Utility or "Sporting" Clip
For this clip, the entire body and legs are clipped except for the "bracelets" around
the ankles, the tail pompom and the head and ears.
For this clip, use an Oster No. 5 for the summer and a No. 4 in the winter. A thick
coat can often be taken down with a No. 10 in the summer as well.
1. Clip the neck from the base of the head, down over the shoulder, down the
back to the tail, down and along the rib cage and under the chest, stomach
and groin.
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2. Clip the back leg, inside and out, to an inch above the hock joint. Then eye
line from the clipping mark on the back leg to the front leg to determine how
far down you should clip the front legs. Just look at where the clip mark on
the back leg ends and draw an imaginary line across to the front leg.
3. Bathe and dry the Poodle as above for the Lamb clip.
4. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
5. Scissor the topknot as above for the Lamb clip.
6. Comb the long hair on the legs outward (bracelets) and scissor the bracelets
into an oval shape.
7. Trim the tail as above for the Lamb clip.
Dutch Clip
This clip is similar to the Lamb clip, except that the trousers extend nearly over the
hindquarters except for a small shaved strip and then the front leg trousers
encompass the shoulders and withers of the dog. The neck is clipped in a V-shape
pointing down towards the breast. Use an Oster No. 10 for this clip.
1. Clip the face, feet and tail as with the previous clips.
2. Clip under the neck to the point of the breastbone and clip the rest of the neck
about two inches above the withers.
3. Take a direct line and shave a blade's width between the shoulders, cross the
withers and continue the line to the base of the tail.
4. Clip the abdomen from the groin to the naval and then downward.
Incorporate the insides of the thighs as well.
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5. Brush through the unclipped hair with a slicker to remove tangles.
6. Bathe the dog as above.
7. Blow-dry the coat as above.
8. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
9. Go over the clipped part of the body with scissors ensure a tidy finish.
10. Scissor the topknot as above.
11. Scissor the back legs to a neat finish and leave a curve at the edge of the
clipped parts.
12. Scissor the front legs; leave a pronounced curve that stands off from the body
rather than being blended in.
Full Puppy Clip
This style is seen on puppies that are exhibited in the show ring and there are some
owners who also like their pets clipped in this style. This is a stunning trim that takes
time and a lot of scissoring. The entire dog is covered in hair except for the small
part of the tail that is clipped as well as the face.
1. Clip the face, feet and tail as above.
2. Thoroughly groom with a slicker and a wide-toothed comb.
3. Clip under the stomach from the groin to the naval with a No. 10 blade.
4. Bathe the dog in a suitable shampoo and condition the coat for scissoring.
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5. Blow-dry the hair lifting it away from the body to keep it from curling.
6. Trim around the bottom of the legs to allow the toes to peep out.
7. Snip off the fine hair ends to create a dense-looking finish. As the coat grows
in, scissor it slightly at the shorter at the base of the tail and blend the hair
upwards to create a glamorous shape.
8. Scissor the dog's tail as you would for the above clips.
Puppy Lion or T‐Clip
This clip creates a tiered effect around the body. The front legs and the chest are
allowed to remain full, while the hind legs and hindquarters are trimmed down.
1. Clip the feet, face and tail as you would for the Puppy clip and groom and
bathe as you would for the Puppy clip.
2. Clip the stomach area.
3. Feel the body to determine the location of the last rib. You can place a marker
at this point so that you can create a straight line. From this point back, the
dog is trimmed shorter than on the front half of the dog.
4. With the scissors, cut upward along the line where the last rib is located. Clip
from the near side, up one side, over the body and then down the other side.
This is easily achieved if the dog is standing square with its rear towards you.
5. The back legs should be clipped following the Lamb clip. They are left longer
from the stifle down though and they should have more accent on the rear
angulations of the hocks and lower hind legs.
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6. Flick the mane with the comb and allow the dog to shake and settle it. Then,
skim around the coat with the scissors to blend where the mane meets the
shorter back hair to create a well defined neck.
7. Work around the mane and shape the incline from the shoulder up towards
the ear.
8. Scissor the front legs so that they have a tubular shape.
9. Scissor the tail like you would for a Lamb clip.
Traditional Lion or English Saddle Cut
This cut is perhaps the most glamorous with the tiered pompoms on the body and
the extravagant mane and topknot.
1. Clip the feet, face and tail.
2. Groom, condition and blow dry as you would for the Puppy clip.
3. Part the coat behind the rib cage as you would for the Puppy Lion clip. It is
always best to clip the mane before the back end to make it easier to achieve
a good balance. A bandage can also be useful in creating even and balanced
lines. You can tie it around at given points to move it up or down to achieve
the balance before you begin cutting. Once you cut, there's no turning back!
4. Apply the bandage at about two inches above the wrist and look to see if this
will allow you to create a nice oval bracelet. Cut above the bandage line, clip
with a No. 10 up the front of the legs to remove hair up to the joint of the
elbow. Trim the bracelet by combing the hair out and allowing it to fall
naturally. Then scissor it to create the oval shape.
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5. Scissor around the bottom of the mane to achieve the ball finish for the front
part of the body.
6. Feel for the hock joint and apply the bandage about an inch above it.
7. Feel for the stifle joint and place another bandage to define your three
pompoms or bracelets for the back legs. Adjust your bandages until you are
satisfied that the dog appears balanced.
8. With the scissors, cut a thin line above the bandage. These points can be
clipped carefully or defined by scissoring.
9. When you begin the other leg, be certain that your lines correspond so that
the dog does not look lopsided. Remember, once you cut, there's no turning
back.
10. Comb the three sections of the hair up and out and then allow it to settle.
Scissor each section so that it appears smooth and round.
11. Scissor the tail as you would for the Lamb clip.
Continental Lion Clip
This clip is the most common clip found in the US show rings. It features the
characteristic two rosettes on the hindquarters of the dog, bracelets on the front and
back legs and the round mane on the front part of the body.
1. Clip the feet, face, and tail. Bathe, condition and blow-dry as you would for
the Puppy clip.
2. Cut in the front end as you would for the Lion clip.
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3. To create the rosettes on the hindquarters, it can help to place a saucer on
the hip joint to define the rosettes. Take the scissors and cut around the
saucer. Remove the saucer to reveal your rosette. Depending on the dog's
natural balance, you may need to create your rosettes so that they help to
balance out the dog.
4. With a No. 10 blade, start clipping from a position just above the hock joint
and clip up to the new rosette. Clip around this, being careful not to clip your
rosette. Clip the narrow area between the mane and the end of the rosette.
5. Lifting the hair with a comb, scissor around the rosette to create a round puff
of hair.
6. Trim the tail as you would for the Puppy clip.
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Lesson 11
Clipped and Trimmed Breeds
These dogs tend to have coats that are difficult to manage and owners have them
trimmed for management purposes. The task is usually completed with a No. 5
Oster and a pair of scissors. Many of these breeds could be hand-stripped, but
groomers opt for clipping to save time.
These dogs need regular grooming throughout their lives. At about 7 months, most
dogs will have a coat change and the old coat must be removed to prevent the dog
from developing one large mat. It can often take months for the dog's entire adult
coat to come in.
Many of these dogs need regular brushing three to four times per week. A good
quality shampoo should also be used.
The dogs covered in this section include:
American Cocker Spaniel
Bichon Frise
Brittany
English Cocker Spaniel
English Springer Spaniel
Kerry Blue Terrier
American Cocker Spaniel
This dog is known for having the most hair per square inch than any other dog. It is
very dense and thick. The coat should be silky, flat and slightly wavy. Few pet
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owners can completely maintain this dog and they are often clipped for easier
maintenance.
Equipment Needed
Mat breaker
Pin brush
Slicker brush
Procedure
1. Brush out the entire coat and break mats where necessary. If matting is
severe, the dog may need to be completely clipped to reduce stress.
2. With pets, clip under the arms, elbows, the stomach and along the inside thigh
with an Oster No. 10.
3. Clip the dog's face with an Oster No. 15 from the top of the eye to the back of
the head.
4. Clip above the ears and down about 1/3 of the ear to accentuate it.
5. Clip down the cheeks to create a clean appearance.
6. Clip under the chin and down the neck to the chest to create a V-shape.
7. The coat on the body is clipped or stripped. Make a visual line from the chest
bone back to the bottom of the pelvis. Clip the body from this line up, leaving
a profuse skirt.
8. Trim the tail upwards and away from the body.
9. Clean off hair around the anus with an Oster No. 10.
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10. Bathe the dog in a protein shampoo.
11. Rinse throughout and condition.
12. Blow-dry, brushing as you go.
13. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
14. Trim the feet to a round shape and clip out hair from between the pads.
15. Trim the bottom of the leg so they have a bell-bottom appearance.
16. Blend in the clipped neck area to the shoulder.
17. Blend in the body skirt to avoid a step effect.
18. Bring the hair on the ear fringe down and lightly trim to create a curved effect.
19. Strip the topknot and blend with thinning scissors. Brush the hair to one side
and trim with thinning scissors or a No. 10. Then repeat on the other side.
Then brush over the top for a clean look.
20. The hair at the edge of the skirt should be leveled so that it is neat.
Bichon Frise
This dog needs a considerable amount of grooming to maintain its powder-puff look.
The breed was once presented with hair on the muzzle and the feet cleaned up, but
today the whole coat is scissored. This dog needs trimming every 4 to 6 weeks to
keep up appearances.
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Equipment Needed
Long-bladed scissors
Short-bladed scissors
Bristle brush
Large slicker brush
Small slicker brush
Steel combs with wide and close-set teeth
Procedure
1. Remove any tangles before bathing as mats are virtually impossible to
remove afterwards without cutting.
2. Try to split any mats into small sectios with your fingertips while using an anti-
tangle spray.
3. Brush with a slicker and comb through the entire coat.
4. Bathe at least once a month in an appropriate shampoo.
5. Rinse thoroughly. These dogs may need shampooing twice to get clean and
a white-enhancing shampoo will help brighten their color.
6. Blow-dry the hair after towel-drying. A power blower can remove much of the
excess moisture first. Use a hand blow-dryer to brush and dry the rest of the
coat.
7. Starting with the tail, dry in small sections and brush as you go. Next, brush
and dry the legs, the body and then the head and ears. All hair must be
brushed while drying to create the powder-puff effect.
8. Comb through the entire coat before trimming and brush the hair up and away
from the coat. The coat should be combed constantly.
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9. The legs should be tubular shaped and trimming should follow the contours of
the body. Always keep the scissors parallel to the body. When viewed from
the rear, the dog's legs should resemble a straight-sided, upside down U.
10. Next, trim the body hair and begin with the sides, moving down under the
body,
11. Scissor the front legs to look straight and cylindrical. The feet should be
included in this line and hidden by the continuous flow of leg hair.
12. The hair on the top line, along the back from the shoulder to the tail, should be
level, but closer than the hair on the neck. Scissor the line of the body to give
a round appearance that blends with the neck hair.
13. Excess hair should be removed from the length of the ears, removing a small
amount at a time. Blend in the remaining hair with the dog's characteristic
topknot.
14. The hair over the eyes is combed forward and trimmed back to allow full view
of the eyes. Start by removing hair on the inside corners of the eyes, but
keep the scissor ends away from the eyes.
15. Neaten over the bridge of the nose, combing downwards.
16. Comb the topknot and trim so that it has a rounded, smooth appearance.
17. The line across the chin, including the beard, should be fairly straight. The
beard should blend with the ears and neck.
18. Give a final comb through and check the nails, ears and teeth.
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Brittany
This dog has a dense, fine and slightly wavy coat. The dog is not difficult to manage,
but does need some thinning.
Equipment Needed
Bristle brush
Pin brush
Fine-toothed comb
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat and use a slicker on longer hair and feathering.
2. Comb through and remove dead hair. Use thinning shears where the thick
hair needs to be removed to create a cleaner appearance.
3. Bathe in a protein shampoo and condition.
4. Towel-dry and then cage dry.
5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
6. Use a stripping knife to remove untidy hairs from the head. Thinners can be
used on the hair below the ears for a smoother appearance.
7. Continue stripping down with the growth of the hair to smooth and taper the
entire coat on the body. Some groomers will use an Oster No. 15 instead of
stripping.
8. Thin the coat where the feathering is profuse. Spray with a protein coat
enhancer and give a final brush.
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9. In the UK, clippers are not used on these dogs.
English Cocker Spaniel
This dog has a very dense coat with feathering on the forelegs, body and hind legs.
This dog does not have the long skirt that the American version has. These dogs
can be trimmed in the same manner as the American, except for the skirt. The skirt
line is not as straight as the American and the lower line is more of an inverted moon
from the breastbone to the lowest point of the pelvis. If the coat is very heavy, it
should be thinned down the line of the ribs.
Ideally, this coat should not be clipped, but stripped instead. Clipping can cause the
coat to thicken and become fluffy. However, many pet owners will have the dog
clipped every six weeks to keep the coat under control. The rest of the dog is
trimmed in the same manner as the American, thinning and stripping rather than
clipping when possible.
English Springer Spaniel
This dog requires regular attention to the coat. This includes stripping, thinning and
in some cases clipping, although clipping should be a last resort.
Equipment Needed
Pin brush
Slicker
Metal Comb
Procedure
1. Brush the body and remove tangles with a metal comb.
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2. For a pet, trim all the hair under the ears to allow air to pass through and to
prevent infection. The ears need regular cleaning.
3. Carding can be used to thin the body hair where necessary and use thinning
shears where excess hair falls.
4. Bathe the dog in a good shampoo.
5. Lightly blow-dry the coat in the direction of the coat and then cage dry after
combing through the wet coat.
6. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
7. Check under the feet for unwanted hair and debris and trim where necessary.
8. Trim excess hair of the hocks to give a clean look.
9. Tidy the feet so that they are well rounded and clean.
10. Use trimming scissors to trim the hair on the ears about one-third of the way
down to achieve a smooth finish.
11. Pluck out long hairs from the top of the head.
12. Trim the hair under the chin and on the brisket bone. Use thinning shears
when necessary. Thin the hair on the shoulders and blend in with the rest of
the body.
13. Dead hair should be removed by hand.
14. The hair around the tail should be trimmed for neatness and the hair around
the anus removed, blending in the surrounding hair with the rest of the body.
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15. Remove hair from the hocks, trimming to a close, smooth finish with thinning
scissors.
Kerry Blue Terrier
This dog needs a considerable amount of trimming to keep them looking their best.
Puppies are born black and it can take up to 18 months before they develop the
characteristic blue color.
Equipment Needed
Slicker brush
Wide-toothed comb
Scissors
Clippers
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat including the beard with a slicker brush.
2. Comb through to remove tangles.
3. Bathe in a suitable shampoo for the dog's color. The dog needs shampoo
and a conditioning mask used three times a year.
4. Dry in a cage.
5. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
6. The head should be clipped with an Oster No. 10 blade. Work away from the
eye, leaving the eyebrows and clip or scissor across the back of the head.
Work in the direction of the hair growth.
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7. Next, clip the ears using a smaller blade going against the grain of the hair
growth. Neaten the edges with scissors.
8. Clip from the outer corner of the eye, backwards to the point of the neck. Trim
down the same marker to the edge of the mouth and under the chin. Clip
down the throat to taper at the base of the neck to create a V-shape.
9. Clip the body with an Oster No. 7, 5 or 4 depending on the length required.
Or, scissor with the growth of the hair to the shoulders, down the rib cage,
down the back to the tail and up the tail. Clip the body to leave a rise over the
hip joint or the bone where the back leg begins. All the leg hair should be
blended with the shorter body.
10. Clip under tail upwards and then down the anal area.
11. Blend in the legs with scissors according to the dog's shape.
12. The front legs are blended in from the elbow down and incorporate the feet.
13. Scissor the hair out from underneath the feet.
14. Trim the edge of the ears to neaten them.
15. Comb the eyebrows and beard forward. Trim them with the scissors point
towards the nose. The hair between the eyes should be shaped so that the
face hair won't fall sideways in front of the eyes.
16. Spray with a coat gloss conditioner.
17. The hair on the head is shortened with clippers or scissors.
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Lesson 12
Thick and Densely Coated Breeds
These dogs are designed to withstand the elements and hence they have very thick
and dense coats. These dogs also shed immensely and a good shed can leave
large clumps of hair everywhere. Professional bathing and grooming will remove
much of this dead hair and for some owners, it is easier to remove much of the
excess coat, particularly in the summer.
To quickly dry these dogs, the power blower is recommended. It will blow out much
of the excess moisture in the coat and dogs should be trained to accept this at an
early age. It also helps if puppies are trained to accept regular brushing, combing
and bathing at a young age as well.
The grooming process for these dogs is very similar to one another and a basic
procedure can be used on these breeds.
The dogs in this category include the following breeds:
Chow Chow
Akita
Alaskan Malamute
Anatolian Sheep Dog
Canaan Dog
Rough Collie
Estrela Mountain Dog
Finnish Lapphund
Finnish Spitz
German Shepherd
German Spitz
Great Pyrenees
Greenland Dog
Hovawart
Japanese Spitz
Keeshond
Hungarian Kuvasz
Leonberger
Maremma Sheepdog
Newfoundland
Norwegian Buhund
Norwegian Elkhound
Norwegian Lundehund
Pomeranian
Samoyed
Schipperke
Shiba Inu
Siberian Husky
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St. Bernard
Swedish Lapphund
Tibetan Mastiff
Basic Grooming Procedure
These breeds can be groomed following this procedure. For those breeds that are
white, a white-enhancing shampoo will make them stand out. Additionally, some
may need scissoring to neaten their outline and appearance. Also, be aware that
these dogs tend to mat and a mat-breaker may be necessary as well as an anti-
tangle spray.
Equipment Needed
Wide toothed comb
Slicker brush
Pin brush
Trimming Scissors
Procedure
1. Brush the entire coat with a slicker. Get down to the skin to remove any dead
hairs and to prevent matting. Hold the coat down with one hand and brush up
with the other. Gently work through the entire coat and be thorough when
brushing the breeching. Always comb in an upward direction.
2. Put the dog in a bath and wet the coat to the skin. You may have to press the
sprayer right up against the dog.
3. Bathe with a suitable shampoo and be diligent in rinsing all of it out.
4. Rub the dog with a towel to remove a large amount of moisture.
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5. Blow the coat with a power blower to remove water and brush with a pin or
slicker brush as you go.
6. Comb through the coat with a wide-toothed comb.
7. Check the nails, ears and teeth.
8. Hair from under the feet should be removed to prevent mud from
accumulating and causing sores. Trim the feet so they appear round and cat-
like.
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Conclusion No matter what type of pet you are grooming, you will utilize many of the same
procedures. Depending on the type of dog or other animal that you are grooming will
determine what additional techniques you will need to utilize, whether it is scissoring,
clipping or stripping. For many animals, all they need is a simple bath, their ears and
nails checked and then brushed to bring out the luster of their coat.
Throughout this course, you have learned how to groom the most common dog
breeds as well as other animals including cats. This information is useful whether
you are grooming at home and especially when starting your own pet grooming
business.
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Quiz
1. Fear biting dogs should always wear which of the following: a. Collar b. Leash c. Muzzle d. Choke chain
2. If you recognize that a dog needs medical attention you should:
a. Contact your veterinarian b. Contact the owner c. Contact the Humane Society d. Treat the condition yourself
3. One of the most important pieces of equipment that a groomer uses daily
includes their: a. Scissors b. Cage dryers c. Bathtubs d. Clippers
4. What should be used to treat bleeding nails?
a. Permanganate crystals b. Water c. Towels d. Baking soda
5. What do you need to properly strip a dog?
a. Stripping Knife b. Dog Dresser c. Stripping Stones d. All of the above
6. Which of the following tools should be used for mats?
a. Mat-breaker b. Wide toothed comb c. Stripper brush d. Conditioner
7. A matted dog should be bathed prior to the mats being removed.
a. True b. False
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8. You will know when a dog is completely shampoo free because: a. You will see clear running water b. You will see dirty water c. You will hear a squeak when you rub the coat d. Both A and C
9. A Lhasa Apso takes about how long to complete a full groom?
a. 2 hours b. 1 ½ hours c. 2 ½ hours d. 3 hours
10. The Puli is which type of dog?
a. Curly coated b. Short haired c. Long haired d. Corded
11. There are seven different types of clips for the Poodle.
a. True b. False
12. Which dog has more hair per square inch?
a. English Cocker Spaniel b. American Cocker Spaniel c. Akita d. Alaskan Malamute
13. The Giant, Standard and Miniature Schnauzers are all groomed in the same
manner although they are considered separate breeds. a. True b. False
14. What will bring out the shine in the Italian Greyhound?
a. Velvet pad b. Cotton pad c. Absorbent towel d. Conditioning spray
15. There are two types of Chinese Crested dogs, the Hairless and the
Powderpuff. a. True b. False
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Glossary of Terms
Anal Glands: Glands that secrete a substance used by the dog to mark its territory,
located on either side of the anus.
Ankle: Also referred to as the hock, on the back leg of the dog.
Apron: Longer hair below the neck and on the chest. May also be called the frill.
Beard: The thick, long hair that grows on the underjaw of the dog.
Breeches: The fringe-like hair that grows on long-coated dogs along the upper and
lower thighs. These are also referred to as pants, trousers and culottes.
Brisket: The sternum area of the dog, but may also refer to the entire throat area of
the dog.
Broken-Haired: Rough, wiry coat.
Buttocks: The rump or hips.
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Carding: A process that removes dead fur on a dog's undercoat and eliminates
shedding. The same process as hand-stripping or knife stripping except that a
different tool is used.
Cat Foot: Neat, round foot, with highly-arched toes that are close together. This is
desired in many breeds.
Cheeks: The skin below the eyes, beginning at the lips. Reaches back to the area
in front of the ears.
Clippers: Used to take length off of the coat. Different blades and combs attach to
the clippers, which work like a razor. Clippers are used with the grain of the hair.
Coloring: Non-toxic dues are often used to dye dog fur. Some are available to
baste on the fur with a brush while blow pens and freehand products are also
available.
Corded: The type of coat seen in dogs that have long-matted looking cord-like
strings of hair. Seen on the Puli and Komondor breeds.
Dander: Small scales on the skin, often caused by an allergic reaction.
De-matting: The process of removing mats that have developed in the dog's top
coat.
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Dewclaw: The extra claw on the inside of the leg.
Dewlap: Loose, pendulous skin under the neck and throat.
Dry Bathing: Many dogs do not need full baths and groomers use a dry bath
instead. There are a variety of dry bath products available. These products
eliminate grease and oil from the coat without getting the dog wet.
Ear Mites: Microscopic insects that live on the lining of the ear canal and cause
itching and discomfort.
Feathering: The long, wispy hair that comes off the dog's legs and sometimes
stomach. This hair is not as long as the hair on a skirt.
Fringe: See Feathering.
Fungicide: A chemical that kills and inhibits the growth of fungus.
Grooming Powder: A talc like powder that helps to separate the hair and give it
volume.
Guard Hairs: Long, smooth, stiff hairs that grow through and conceal the undercoat.
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Hand Stripping: Groomers use hand stripping to remove dead hair from the dog's
top coat, similar to that of carding or knife-stripping.
Hock: The bones of the hind leg that form the joint of the hind leg. The joint is
considered the dog's true heel. It is the joint that is formed right after the slope of the
thigh.
Jowls: Flesh of the lips and the jaws.
Leather: The flap of the ear that is supported by tissue and cartilage.
Plucking: When a dog is shedding, hair can be plucked from the dog to remove the
hair. The ears are often plucked to remove excess hair.
Quick: The vein running through the dog's nail.
Scissoring: Technique using scissors to put the final touches on a coat after
clipping or shaving. Some dogs are scissored all over rather than clipped.
Skirt: The hair that extends around the body of the dog from the stomach and the
legs, commonly seen on American Cocker Spaniels.
Slicker Brush: Flat, square brush with wire bristles used to remove tangles and hair.
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Snap-on Combs: Combs that attach to clippers to vary the depth of the cut.
Stacking: The method of placing a show dog into the proper position for judging.
Stifle: The joint of the hind leg between the thigh and second thigh on the front of
the leg. The area where the leg joins the hip.
Stop: The step up from the muzzle to the back skull. The indentation where the
eyes, nasal bones and cranium meet.
Styptic Powder: The tool used when cutting a dog's nails to stop the bleeding.
Topknot: A tuft of long hair on top of the head.
Undercoat: The dense, soft and short coat that is concealed by the top coat.
Withers: The highest point of the dog's shoulders.
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LEGAL
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once you complete the course and send in your answers along with your resume.
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