Discover Slovakia18 – 25 May 2002

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Discover Slovakia18 – 25 May 2002

Participants flying from Heathrow: the Richmond & Twickenham RSPB Members’ Group

Susie Storm-TurnerBill KilbyRaymond HarrisonDavid BroadleyKathy BuosiRobert MonkStephen HarringtonJane RowseClare JefferyRosalie Grayson

Participants flying from Stansted

Michael Savory, NorfolkElizabeth SavoryTimothy Aldiss

Commiserations to Penny Aldiss who had to pull out of the holiday shortly before departure.

Leader from SlovakiaPavol Kanuch

Leader from UKSteve Henson

Like all Honeyguide holidays, this one contributed to the protection of the wildlife we enjoyed by wayof a contribution of £25 per person to SOVS. The £350 left with Pavol is part of the £25,700 raisedby Honeyguide in this way since 1991. There’s a thank you letter from him at the report’s end.

Report written by Steve Henson

Illustrations by Bill Kilby. Cover illustration of imperial eagle by Rob Hume.

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Itinerary & highlights

Day 1 Saturday, 18/5/02Morning: flew from London Heathrow airport on 0740hrs Czech Airlines flight to Prague, arrivingaround 1030hrs local time.Mid-day (1225hrs) onward flight to Kosice, arriving 1355hrs. Met up with Pavol, Josef and Frank,our driver.Afternoon: transfer to the Kosice basin.Later, a brief stop near Vysna Mysl’a, southeast of Kosice for sousliks and on to beech forest nearByster, east of Kosice, for Ural owl.Early evening: transferred to Hotel Energetik at Zemplinska sirava.Dinner and overnight at Hotel Energetik.

Highlights of the day were the raptors and other species as a whole, Ural owl, the maleblue-headed wagtail, Josef’s amazing binoculars, Rosalie’s timely check-in at Heathrow(a close shave!), arriving in Prague on time (despite yesterday’s air traffic controlproblems in the UK) and witnessing the customs officers in action at Kosice airport!

Day 2 Sunday, 19/5/02Location: Slanske Hills.Morning: a stop near Vechec to watch for raptors, followed by a walk through tall forest at Vlcipotok (Wolf’s stream) & Ciertaze near Juskova Vol’a, for Ural owl, woodpeckers, flycatchers andforest flowers.Lunchtime: quarry for eagle owl followed by picnic in Pavol and Monika’s garden in the village ofJuskova Vol’a.Afternoon: meadows, scrub and forest near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills.Dinner at Salas Medvedia hora and overnight at Hotel Energetik.

Highlights of the day were eagle owl, white-backed woodpecker, red-breasted flycatcher,the raptors, woodpeckers and flycatchers in general and the close-ups of lesser horseshoebats at Pavol and Monika’s house in Juskova Vol’a. Last, but not least, the delicious cakesprovided by Monika!

Day 3 Monday, 20/5/02Morning: travelled about 40km south towards the border with Hungary. Walk in the Latorica Rivervalley near Besa followed by brief stops for bee-eater at a sandpit between Leles and Kopona and awetland near the village of Backa.Lunchtime: Slovak Tokaj wine degustation at the Tokaj wine cellars in Mala Trna north ofSlovenske Nove Mesto, followed by picnic lunch in the Laborec River valley.Mid afternoon: Senne wetland.Evening: dinner and overnight at the Hotel Energetik.

Highlights of the day were the grebes, little bittern, black stork, ferruginous duck, blackkite, a male marsh harrier in spectacular display flight, bee-eaters, river warbler, thependuline tit and its nest, the river valley wet woodland near Besa and the small wetlandnear Backa. Pavol opted for his late afternoon snooze whilst searching for corncrakes andMike voted for the whole day!

Day 4 Tuesday, 21/5/02Travelled westwards into the Slovak Karst Protected Landscape Area southwest of Kosice and on toour second holiday base at Penzion Limba in the Lower Tatras mountains.Morning: after travelling about 100km, arrived in Slovak Karst Protected Landscape Area.Brief excursion to nearby working quarry at Host’ovce on the border with Hungary to look for rockthrush followed by walk through abandoned vineyards below Turniansky hrad (castle), north of Turna

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nad Bodvou, to the nature reserve for endemic Turna Goldendrop Onosma tornensis, rock bunting andgreen lizard.Lunchtime: lunch at Zadiel followed by optional walks into Zadielska gorge or a steep climb onto theplateau above, for botanising, butterflies and birds.Afternoon: continuation of transfer with brief roadside stops for meadows and to listen for corncrake.Brief potter by the roadside en route for plants in the Slovak Paradise National Park north ofDobsina.Evening: arrived at Penzion Limba followed by a barbecued dinner.

Highlights of the day were imperial eagle, peregrine, rock thrush, excellent views of anightingale, rock bunting, the walk up to the plateau above Zadielska gorge and theflowers including those by the roadside in Slovak Paradise National Park.

Day 5 Wednesday, 22/5/02Morning: meadow stop near Tatranska Lomnica to admire globeflowers and other flora. Following abrief look for black woodpecker, a forest walk at Kezmarske Zl’aby in the High Tatras mountains,Tatra National Park for hazelhen, three-toed woodpecker, newts and forest flowers. Picnic lunch.Afternoon: north to Pieniny National Park for a rafting trip down the Dunajec River along theborder with Poland.Late afternoon: brief meadow stop near Lesnica for orchids.Evening: dinner at Polovnicka izba.

Highlights of the day were the party of eight hobbies, the ‘cute’ red squirrel at our picnicsite, the newts, military orchid, the orchids and flowers in general, the alpine meadows,ice-cream, rafting down the Dunajec River and the evening meal. Liz voted for ‘Slovakia’as a whole.

Day 6 Thursday, 23/5/02Morning: short drive south to Tri Domceky for the climb by chair lift and on foot to Chopok, highin the Lower Tatras National Park, for alpine accentor, water pipit, chamois and alpine marmot.Lunchtime: picnic near Jasna, north of the ski-lift.Afternoon: visit to the magnificent wooden church of Svaty Kriz followed by a look at great greyshrikes nearby.Late afternoon: two areas of forest near Hotel Limba for Tengmalm’s owl, black woodpecker, crestedtit and crossbill.Evening: dinner at Koliba bystrina.

Highlights of the day were the Tengmalm’s owl at the nesthole, black woodpecker, alpineaccentors in the mist, great grey shrikes, nutcracker, the albino trout and the walk in theclouds on Chopok.

Day 7 Friday, 24/5/02Morning: stop overlooking the reservoir northwest of Liptovska Mikulas for scarlet rosefinch,followed by the meadows near Izipovce for corncrake, butterflies and flowers.A walk through the Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley north onto the high meadows in the Chocske Hills.Lunchtime: picnic on the high alpine meadows north of Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley.Afternoon: visit to the Oravska folk museum east of Zuberec. Stops to listen for corncrake and abrief stop on the return journey in the village of Liptovska Matiasovce, including a look inside thechurch.Evening: traditional Slovak dinner at Chata Koliesko, next to the chair lift at Tri Domceky.

Highlights of the day were the sausages at breakfast, an unexpected redstart at theOravska folk museum, scarlet rosefinch, yellow wood violet, the walk through the gorgein Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley and emerging onto the high alpine meadows above. Last butnot least, the evening meal and huge, cuddly Newfoundland dog at Chata Koliesko.

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Day 8 Saturday, 25/5/02Morning: early departure from Penzion Limba after breakfast, bound for Kosice.Early morning stop in the historic town of Levoca with optional visits to the church and town hall.Late morning: stroll around the centre of Kosice. Shopping, ice-cream, coffee and beer, or furtherbirding nearby in the park Petrovov sad!Early afternoon: transferred to airport for 1425hrs flight to Prague.

Avian highlights of the week were little bittern, saker, Tengmalm’s owl, Ural owl andeagle owl, black woodpecker and, notwithstanding the low cloud, alpine accentor.

Non-avian highlights were the newts, wild flowers, the meadows in the Slanske Hills onSunday and the Tokaj wine cellars and degustation. Tim’s highlight was his ‘education’in all things wildlife, whilst Mike and Liz voted simply for Slovakia – who could argueagainst that?

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Daily diary

Saturday 18/5/02 – east boundAn anxious arrival early on Saturday morning at Heathrow airport, terminal 2. Would the airportchaos and extended delays of yesterday - caused by air traffic control computer software problems -be repeated today? No, the problem had by this time been sorted and the backlog of delayed flightsdissipated. Nine members of the Richmond & Twickenham RSPB Members’ Group and I checked inwith ease for our eastbound flight to Prague. But wait! Shouldn’t there be ten members in the group?More anxious moments as we waited for Rosalie to reappear having rushed home by taxi to collecther flight tickets. With minutes to spare before the desk closed, Rosalie at last reappeared and so ourholiday could begin.

The Czech Airlines flight was soon in the air, so it was time to relax and, in what seemed like no timeat all we were touching down on the western outskirts of Prague. With a couple of hours to killbefore our onward flight, some of the group made themselves comfortable in one of the bars whilst Ilooked out for the remaining three Honeyguiders who had been in Prague since Thursday.Eventually, Tim, Mike and Liz from Norfolk found us, having spotted all the binoculars, ‘scopes andtripods! By now there was not long to wait for our mid-day onward flight to Koice.

Touching down in the very warm, pleasant sunshine, Pavol, Josef our guide for the afternoon andFrank the minibus driver were waiting to welcome us. After exchanging money, a few of the groupbecame held up behind a group of Slovakian passengers whose baggage was being fervently searched bycustoms officials. Black redstarts and a fine white wagtail were welcome diversions as the rest of uswaited, but as soon as we could we were heading off towards the Kosice basin. It wasn’t long before wewere watching imperial eagle, a reminder that we had arrived in eastern Slovakia! Around and aboutwere a few white storks feeding in a newly mown meadow, a confiding male blue-headed wagtail calledfrom the top of the corn, whilst quail, barred and marsh warblers were heard and from the bus, Timspotted the only grey partridge of the trip. Moving a short distance to another area, the focus thistime was a female saker. Nearby were kestrel, red-backed shrike, linnets, house and tree sparrows.

Leaving the area, we headed back towardsKosice, stopping by the roadside en route to lookat sousliks. As we scanned, a female red-footedfalcon came into view flying low and fast,staying in the area for several minutes. It wastime to move on again, this time to an area ofbeech forest east of Kosice. A short walkbrought us to a large nestbox placed high in a tree, in which a juvenile Ural owl was convenientlyviewed via a strategically placed mirror in the roof of the nestbox! Within seconds, the huge bulk ofthe female loomed into view in a nearby tree. The owl skirted around us for several minutes enablingexcellent views through the ‘scope. On the way back to the bus we admired some of the floweringplants on the forest floor which included May lily and bird’s-nest orchid, before bidding Josef farewelland heading eastwards to our first base, the Hotel Energetik, overlooking the vast reservoirZemplinska sirava.

Sunday 19/5/02 – the Slanske hillsAfter a dawn chorus that included a golden oriole and black redstarts, followed by some early morningbirding forays into the hotel grounds and then breakfast, we loaded up the minibus and headed off t othe Slanske Hills west of Vranov nad Topl’ou. En route a magnificent imperial eagle came into view,bringing the journey to an abrupt halt as we savoured superb, close views as it circled on the morning’sdeveloping thermals. Our first main stop was at a vantage point near Vechec on the edge of theSlanske hills to watch for raptors soaring in the warm sunshine. We were not to be disappointed, withbuzzard, honey buzzard, sparrowhawk, two or three hobbies and two lesser spotted eagles putting in anappearance and giving good views.

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From there we made our way to the slopes of the Slanske hills near the village of Juskova Vol’a, for awalk through the forest. A Ural owl was seen by some of the group and we made frequent stops t olisten for woodpeckers. A white-backed woodpecker was heard but could not be enticed into view andgenerally, birds were thin on the ground as the morning progressed. There were several plants ofinterest to admire as we walked, including asarabacca, bird’s-nest orchid, patches of dwarf elder andlarge yellow foxglove, Goldilocks buttercup, May lily and pyramidal bugle, as well as a few vividly-coloured Carpathian blue slugs, endemic to the region. A stunning male red-breasted flycatcher gaveclose-up views but, although we had heard several, collared flycatchers were proving more difficult t opin down. After much neck straining and changing position, a superb singing male was eventuallylocated in the canopy thanks to some sharp spotting by Kathy.

After the forest it was time for lunch, but not before visiting a quarry behind Juskova Vol’a where wehad good if distant views of an adult female eagle owl. Dropping back down into the village, theHoneyguiders were once again invited to eat lunch in Pavol and Monika’s delightful garden next t otheir newly built home. A green woodpecker was seen and a wryneck called nearby as we relaxed afterthe morning’s walk. We also sampled the wonderful cakes provided by Monika and were introducedto their new baby boy, Matej. After lunch we climbed a ladder into the loft space of Pavol andMonika’s older, traditional house (next to the new one) for a privileged, close encounter with over 40roosting lesser horseshoe bats (taking care not to disturb them).

Now well into the afternoon, we headed south to a new area nearBackov, on the edge of the Slanske hills. An open area of scatteredscrub and meadows contrasted with the high forest of the morning andas is usually the case, there were more birds and these were easier t osee! Some of the group saw the only hoopoe of the holiday whilst thescrub held several red-backed shrikes and barred warblers and hawfinchesseemed to appear from all directions, with up to nine seen. A briefexcursion into an adjacent area of forest yielded good views of woodwarblers and no less than four orchid species including white helleborineand lesser butterfly orchid. Later, we came across a singing woodlarkand a white-backed woodpecker which responded dramatically t oPavol’s CD recording of the call, giving good views both in flight and whilst perched. If this wasn’tenough, out in the open scrub we also saw lesser spotted woodpecker and most had good views of amiddle spotted woodpecker. Butterflies, including several fritillaries, flitted over the grassland in thewarm sun, whilst wood whites and Duke of Burgundy were seen drinking from a rut along the shadiertrack at the entrance to the site.

Monday 20/5/02 – the river valley lowlands and Senne wetland (a very special wetland!)Monday was humid and hazy as we travelled south towards the Latorica and Laborec river valleylowlands near the Hungarian border, meeting up en route with Milos, our guide for the morning. Firstin a series of stops was an area of wet, floodplain woodland and scrub in the Latorica River valley nearBesa, where we immediately saw a distant lesser spotted eagle followed by two black storks. Therewas plenty of interesting avian activity with first penduline tit at the nest and then singing riverwarbler, whilst overhead there was a black kite, honey buzzard, male red-footed falcon and malemarsh harriers indulging in spectacular aerial displays. A female sand lizard was seen well whilst a foxmade a quick exit into the vegetation. Bee-eaters called overhead, hidden in the haze, a quail called inthe distance, whilst some of the group did manage to glimpse a ‘reeling’ grasshopper warbler,concealed for the most part within tall, lush vegetation.Next was a brief stop at a small sandpit; home to a colony of bee-eaters. Several of these gorgeousbirds were present, feeding aerially or perched outside their nest burrows, providing stunning viewsthrough the ‘scopes. Another black stork, this one much closer, drifted over and there were severalsand martins plus a corn bunting and a hare. It was time to head off for our Slovak Tokaj winedegustation at the wine cellars in Mala Trna near Slovenske Nove Mesto, but not before spending avery productive 15 minutes at a small wetland near the village of Backa. Red-necked grebes withyoung, pochard, night heron and a statuesque little bittern were all in view at close range, plus a small

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number of whiskered terns and a single black tern. A roadside pond produced a wading black stork aswe left the area.

We were all somewhat hungry after sampling a range of thoroughly enjoyable Tokaj wines (with somepurchased for further, in-depth analysis back in the UK!), so a quick picnic stop along the LaborecRiver valley, en route to Senne wetland, was in order. Although the roadside was a little uninspiring,there were several birds of interest, including lesser spotted eagle and hawfinch, whilst another quail,icterine warbler and golden oriole were heard. Replete, we headed for Senne, enjoying good views of aquail as it flew in front of the bus.

After meeting up with Stefan our guide, we arrived at the site gatehouse at precisely the pre-arrangedtime only to find it locked up with the security guard nowhere to be seen. Leaving the bus behind fora while, we walked onto the site, quickly locating a penduline tit at the nest before soon meeting theguard and his accompanying vicious looking dog walking in the opposite direction! At the wetland,birds were everywhere and at times it was difficult to know what to look at next! [What is interestingis that the character of each of the fishponds at Senne changes from year to year as water levels aremanipulated as part of the fishery management. Where one year there is bare mud and feedingwaders, the next it might hold deeper water, attracting an entirely different suite of birds]. Nightherons were plentiful, a number of purple herons were seen over the reedbed areas and there was anotable party of 13 feeding spoonbills, whilst 30 or more white storks were gathered on adjacent,newly mown meadows. A bittern boomed but none were seen this time. Waders were evident on themuddy areas, including Temminck’s stint, little stint, curlew sandpiper, wood sandpiper, black-tailedgodwit, ruff and greenshank. Several of the fishponds had deeper water supporting breeding red-necked grebes, parties of black-necked grebes including one of 14, plus feeding assemblages of hawkingwhiskered terns, black terns and little gulls. Wigeon, teal, garganey, shoveler and pochard were allpresent but the highlight in this family had to be the pair of superb ferruginous ducks. An Easternhedgehog crossed the track in front of us (so nice to see a live one!) as we made our way slowly offthe site and earlier, we had unexpected encounters with both stoat and roe deer.

With birthdays today and tomorrow respectively, Robert and Bill were given VIP ‘treatment’ at theevening meal, with cards and a song and we all shared with them a very tasty cake that Pavol hadgenerously arranged.

Tuesday 21/5/02 – on the move: west to the Slovak karst and Tatra mountainsToday marked the second part of our holiday as we left eastern Slovakia, travelling west to a new basein the mountains of the Low Tatras (Nizke Tatry) in central Slovakia. On the way, a stop for petrolin Kosice presented the slightly odd site of foraging rooks, jackdaws, fieldfares and a black redstartjuxtaposed with the tarmac and concrete of the station forecourt and the backdrop of high-rise flatsbeyond the expanse of municipal grass!

Our first destination was the Slovak Karst Protected Landscape Area southwest of Kosice along theborder with Hungary. First stop was at a working quarry right on the border to look for a male rockthrush in territory, at the same time meeting up with Juraj our guide on the Karst for the next coupleof hours or so. Viewing the quarry with telescopes from some considerable distance, we scanned thequarry face and slopes above. After a short time during which Tim amused us by straddling the borderin true tourist tradition and chatting away with the border guard, the bird put in a couple of briefappearances above the quarry. From such a distance it was difficult to pick out much plumage detailbut soon after it was relocated at much closer range, lower down in better light, so in the end theviews were moderately good.

From here we travelled the short distance back to the hill below the Turniansky hrad (castle) wherewe walked up along the track through the old vineyards to the nature reserve where, on the way, weenjoyed excellent close-up views of a Syrian woodpecker. This site, which consists of steeply slopingdry limestone grassland with patches of scrub, supports the Turna goldendrop, endemic to the SlovakKarst region. The hot dry spring meant that many of the plants at this exceedingly dry site hadflowered in advance and so the slopes were dotted with numerous flower stalks and drying seed heads

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of Jurinea (a thistle) and bearded viper’s-grass (a yellow Composite similar to a goatsbeard). Severalof the wonderfully hairy Turna goldendrop plants were in flower as well as field cow-wheat, bloodycrane’s-bill and yellow woundwort. A male green lizard did its best to hide from us amongst thevegetation whereas a male rock bunting was considerably easier to see as it sang from its scrubbysongpost. We also saw three spoonbills on the wetland in the valley below, plus long-tailed tits,hawfinch and a peregrine, but to cap it all was another magnificent imperial eagle at close range,circling against the backdrop of the limestone hills. A few of the group had very good views of anightingale as we dropped back down the hill again towards the minibus.

From the goldendrop site, we moved only a short distance to the spectacular, steep-sided Zadielskagorge to eat lunch. Afterwards, we split into two groups with Pavol leading the more energetic amongus, i.e. Clare and Tim, up onto the plateau above, whilst the rest of us opted for an easier walkthrough the shady gorge alongside the stream. By now rain was quite heavy, with low cloud shroudingthe sides of the gorge; bird activity was fairly infrequent but even so, we did encounter grey wagtail,dipper and marsh tit as well as a pair of peregrines. Later in the afternoon weleft the Karst region behind, resuming our journey towards the mountains ofcentral Slovakia. Stops were made en route to admire the meadows and listenfor corncrake, with a longer stretch of the legs at a flower-rich spot in theSlovak Paradise National Park, north of Dobsina. This latter stop producedaconite-leaved buttercup, alpine clematis, great masterwort (an Astrantia), greatmeadow-rue, whorled Solomon’s-seal and yellow melancholy thistle amongmany others.

Wednesday 22/5/02 – the High Tatras and river raftingalong the Polish borderOur first day in central Slovakia brought cloudless skies andsunshine. A superb, singing male firecrest was well seen outsideHotel Limba prior to setting off towards the forests and alpinemeadows of Tatra National Park, picking up Marian, our guidefor the morning, en route. As we drove into the mountains westopped near Tatranska Lomnica to admire one of the manymeadows with its globeflowers, plus bistort, lady’s-mantle, broad-

leaved marsh-orchids and water avens among others, as well as several woodland ringlet butterflies. Agoshawk also passed over and a black woodpecker was heard calling some way off in the adjacentforest.

A brief stop to look for black woodpecker drew a blank, although we did enjoy reasonable views of afirecrest. We set off on a walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby through first mixed and later, as we reachedthe steeper slopes, coniferous forest. There were many plants of interest on the forest floorincluding alpine clematis, asarabacca, bitter vetchling, dusky crane’s-bill, Leopardsbane, May lily,oxlip, whorled Solomon’s-seal and the impressively tall great yellow gentian. The forest floor waswet in places, with water-filled ruts along the tracks. Marian soon located two amphibian inhabitantsof the ruts in the shape of both alpine and Montandon’s newts, the latter species being limited inrange to the Carpathian and Tatras mountains. As is often the case in forest, birds were difficult t osee, although we did hear several wood warblers and a crested tit. A further steep climb through pineforest by some of the group brought only tantalizing glimpses of a hazelhen on the forest floor, a redsquirrel and a three-toed woodpecker was heard calling. Amusingly, another very handsome redsquirrel assumed the classic ‘cute squirrel’ pose at the base of a tree as we ate our picnic lunch beforeheading north to Pieniny National Park and the border with Poland.

Our destination was Cerveny Klastor on the Dunajec river. A lesser spotted eagle and a hobby wereseen whilst we waited to embark upon a superb rafting trip along the river. The sunshine was pleasantand we were entertained by the boatmen’s stories as they guided us towards Lesnica some 10kmdownstream, through mainly gentle currents. After a few kilometres the wider riverine landscapebecame more enclosed as we entered a long meandering gorge, spectacular limestone outcropstowering above us. A nutcracker flew across the wooded slopes and a honey buzzard soared overhead,

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whilst a party of eight hobbies were hawking insects high above the gorge. White and grey wagtailswere plentiful along the river, whilst a yellow-legged gull scavenged a dead pike and among the birdssinging from the wooded slopes around us were red-breasted flycatchers. Alpine asters were growingon some of the limestone outcrops. After over an hour and forty minutes we reached Lesnica, wherethe river runs on into Poland; our relaxing trip came to an end all too soon and it was back to dryland for a walk through part of the national park back to the minibus.

Heading south again towards the Tatras mountains and Penzion Limba there was still time to take inanother alpine meadow notable for its orchids where we found several spikes of the impressivemilitary orchid and, thanks to Robert’s alertness, several diminutive frog orchids. Surprisingly, aparty of seven calling bee-eaters flew over the meadow, heading north in the evening sun, perhapstowards Poland. A shortcut back towards the main highway took us through some scenic, rollingSlovakian countryside and traditional villages with their wooden houses, neat woodstacks andmeadows with orchids, rounded off with lesser spotted eagles to the north and south of Toporec.Wonderful!

Thursday 23/5/02 – Alpine accentors in the mist, a spectacular church and an unexpectedowlThis morning we drove south into the heart of the Lower Tatras National Park to the chairliftterminal at Tri Domceky, for the climb onto the high northern slopes of the Chopok (2024m) ridge.A superb male ring ouzel sang from a Norway spruce, giving excellent views as we waited. With lowcloud, warm clothing including hats and gloves was the order of the day as we launched off the groundinto the cool air above the spruce clothing the lower slopes below. Coming ‘down to earth’ again atthe terminal on the slopes high above the treeline, we were enveloped in the thick mist of the lowcloud but, despite this, opted to continue up the mountainside along the well-worn path. Water pipitscould be heard singing close by but despite their proximity the cloud rendered them impossible to seeand several dunnocks were also singing from the scrub near the ski terminal.

We made our way to the vantage point overlooking a number of ridges and a valley way below, but ofcourse today we couldn’t see more than a few metres in front of us. An alpine accentor was heardsinging from one of the nearby rocky outcrops so out came Pavol’s CD player, bringing an instantand dramatic response as three birds circled around us, calling as they did so. Further bursts of songfrom the CD player brought them within a few metres of us, on the ground, enabling good viewsthrough the telescopes which needed to be gripped firmly in the strong wind! Happy to get suchviews despite the cloud, we returned downslope. Flowering plants were few and far between althoughdelicate least primroses was quite numerous, with snowbells and white pasque flower also helping t omake up for the lack of quantity.

Back on lower ground, we thawed out in the sun with a welcome cup of coffee and our picnic lunchnear Jasna, north of the ski-lift, in an open area of improved meadow surrounded by forest. Despitemany pairs of eyes on the lookout, few birds were in evidence except for a grey wagtail singing from aNorway spruce and a few siskins, although Tim’s day was ‘made’ by seeing the albino trout in thefishpond outside the hotel. From Jasna we made the short trip to see the magnificent EvangelicalLutheran church at Svaty Kriz, one of the best examples of a wooden church in Europe. Red-backedshrikes and barred warbler were present in the nearby scrub,with three great grey shrikes, tree pipit and stonechat in anadjacent area of wet grassland and scattered pines. By nowthe afternoon was hotting up in the bright sunshine,bringing out a swallowtail butterfly and encouraging severalraptors into the skies, including hobby, goshawk,sparrowhawk, buzzard and lesser spotted eagle.

Returning to the Demanovska Valley near Hotel Limba, wefollowed Peter (our guide today and tomorrow) up a verysteep forested hill where we trained our telescopes on ahole in the trunk of one of the pines – an old black

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woodpecker’s nest. Peter and Pavol approached the base of the tree, gently tapping the trunk to seeif anyone was ‘at home’. Minutes passed, nothing happened. Then, a much longer stick tappedhigher up the trunk did the trick when suddenly a magnificent Tengmalm’s owl appeared at thenesthole entrance, glaring defiantly at Peter and Pavol below it and then across at the rest of us!There it remained for several minutes giving excellent views before disappearing just as suddenly.Incredibly, a black woodpecker’s nest was in use about 50 metres away and, after a burst of recordedcall on the CD player, in came a black woodpecker from across the valley. It reacted dramatically t othe call, flying to and fro and over us, climbing the pines at very close range, giving superb views.Excitedly, we made our way downhill back to the minibus, with some of the group opting to return t othe hotel whilst the others went off to look for crested tit in the forest near the restaurants. In notime at all, a crested tit was located, followed by a second just a short distance away, both providingexcellent, prolonged views. To round things off nicely, a pair of crossbills also appeared, again givinggood, satisfying views. If this wasn’t enough, a nutcracker flew over the forest opposite Hotel Limbain the evening as we gathered to go off to the restaurant for our meal.

Friday 24/5/02 – the Chocske HillsAn icterine warbler gave frustrating views as it sang from a row of tall poplars in the urban setting ofLiptovska Mikulas as we collected Peter at the beginning of a lovely sunny day. We drove westwardstowards the nearby Chocske Hills, north of the reservoir Liptovska Mikulas. Stopping at the edge ofthe reservoir south of Liptovska Sielnica we needed only a brief search before locating a brightly-coloured, singing male scarlet rosefinch in willow scrub. Another was located nearby, then another,plus a pair of marsh warblers. From here, we drove the short distance into the hills near Izipovce,walking along an interesting narrow stream valley surrounded by lush, damp meadows and scrub. Our‘target’ in this area was corncrake but, despite Pavol’s persistence and hard work, it was not to be.Nevertheless, a fine male whinchat and a yellow-bellied toad, as well as singing marsh warbler andcalling quail provided considerable interest in this area of scenic, hilly farmland.

As we set off along the stream in the sunshine, the Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley looked very inviting.Kathy, Mike and Steve (Ha) opted to stay with Frank who would be driving to meet us with the bus onthe alpine meadows above. One of the first birds to be seen was a juvenile dipper, calling incessantlyand giving good views. Passing into the first of the narrow gorges, a common wall lizard scuttledquickly into cover and a very large common frog ‘froze’ whilst David duly photographed it. Birdswere difficult to locate in the wooded valley and other than a kestrel and a nutcracker most of them,including several wood warblers and a red-breasted flycatcher, were heard rather than seen. The walkitself more than compensated for the dearth of visible birds with lots of butterflies and floweringplants to slow our progress. A cluster of green-veined whites and a comma were busy taking in saltsfrom rocks in the stream, whilst chequered skipper, orange tip, brimstone, wood white, speckled woodand Duke of Burgundy were seen nearby. Butterbur was abundant along the stream lower down in thevalley floor with frequent bird’s-nest orchid, common twayblade and lesser butterfly orchid on theshadier, wooded valley sides. The bare rock faces of the gorges harboured alpine aster and theinconspicuous edelweiss, with yellow wood violet in theshadiest parts, the latter admired during one of the ladderclimbs! Other species included Clusius’s gentian and as wecame out onto the wide alpine meadows above the valley,there were masses of kidney vetch as well as broad-leavedmarsh orchids and swathes of cotton-grass neatly demarcatingareas of very wet bog. Birds were more visible in these widerspaces, with three whinchats, several meadow pipits and aquail calling in the distance. A black woodpecker wasglimpsed at the top of the valley where the forest gives wayto meadow and at least three ring ouzels were in the samearea.

After a very welcome picnic lunch amid the alpine meadowsabove Prosiecka Valley, with cattle bells tinkling in thedistance, we headed for the Oravska folk museum east of

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Zuberec for a relaxing cultural interlude. Situated alongside a fast flowing mountain river, the museumcomprises a variety of vernacular wooden buildings brought here from various parts of the Oravskaregion, set out with the traditional furnishings and household belongings relevant to their formeroccupants. The highlight among the buildings is probably the fifteenth century Catholic church, withits superbly ornate painted panels that survived the pillaging of local Protestants. Country pottery inthe Slovakian vernacular style was on sale, with several pieces purchased and destined for new homesin the UK! On the bird ‘front’ were black redstart, bullfinch, siskin, with grey and white wagtailsalong the river but the big surprise for Pavol was a singing male redstart. Stops were made en route t othe museum and afterwards to listen for corncrakes but again, there was no sign of them. We alsotook time to admire the scenery and stopped at the quiet village of Liptovska Matiasovce where welooked inside the church.

In the evening we enjoyed an absolutely tremendous traditional Slovak dinner at Chata Koliesko, nextto the chair lift at Tri Domceky, complete with its huge, cuddly Newfoundland dog that we’d firstspotted yesterday. We toasted the success of the holiday and the wildlife we had so enjoyed seeing,thanking Pavol for making it all possible and I presented the Honeyguide holiday donation towardsthe work of the Society for the Protection of Birds in Slovakia (SOVS) at Senne wetland.

Saturday 25/5/02 – return to PragueAfter an early breakfast, we loaded our bags into the minibus once again in the cool of the morningand headed off from Penzion Limba for the last time. It was time to leave behind the mountains ofthe Lower Tatras and head for Kosice and our flight back to Prague.

Heading east, we passed through the open Spis countryside to the historic walled town of Levocawhere we split into smaller groups for a look around the main square. Some were happy to strollwhilst others took in a little culture with visits to the Roman Catholic church, home to many piecesof religious art and an impressive sixteenth-century altar, reputedly the tallest of its kind anywhere!Next to the church was the town hall with museum and outside, the wrought iron Klietka hanby (‘cageof disgrace’), erected by Protestants around 1600 as a pillory for women!

On the road again, we passed the impressive and imposing castle ruin Spissky hrad, burnt to theground in 1781, before heading south at Presov along the rather bland and ‘uneventful’ dualcarriageway towards Kosice. Once there we again split into groups, some heading to the main streetto stroll or search for presents, enjoying the lively festival of traditional music and dance taking placethere. One group headed off to a nearby local park to cram in a last birding session, enjoying goodviews of an icterine warbler plus golden oriole, a calling wryneck and a Syrian woodpecker’s nest.

Our week in Slovakia was nearing an end as we headed out of Kosice towards the airport. In the brightsunshine we reluctantly checked in for our early afternoon return flight to Prague and before boardingsaid farewell to Pavol and Frank. Before long we were touching down again. It was time for morefarewells as Robert, Tim, Mike and Liz headed off for their short stay in the fine city of Prague,whilst the rest of us continued our return journey to London where grey, overcast skies and coolertemperatures awaited.

What a fantastic week it had been, full of exciting wildlife moments and with many memories t otreasure. Many thanks to Pavol for the packed but rewarding itinerary and to Pavol and Monika forsharing with us their lovely home in Juskova Vol’a – and welcome to their new son Matej. Manythanks to Frank for driving safely and so well throughout the week and to our guides Josef, Milos,Stefan, Juraj, Marian and Peter, who helped to enrich our stay.

Finally, I’d like to thank Pavol, Bill, Clare, David, Jane, Kathy, Ray, Robert, Rosalie, Steve, Susie,Tim, Mike and Liz for being such great company.

In producing this report I’d again like to thank Pavol for his help, patiently answering my pedanticquestions and providing place names where I had gaps. Thanks to Bill for providing such charming

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pencil drawings that will, I’m certain, bring back those wildlife moments and thanks to my wifeAngela for scanning the images, making my task considerably easier.

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Systematic lists

Birds

Little Grebe2+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Great Crested Grebe3-8+, Zemplinska sirava, 18/5-21/5; Senne wetland, 20/5 and on the wetland south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5.Red-necked GrebeA pair with two young, small wetland near Backa and 6, including birds at the nest, Senne wetland, 20/5.Black-necked GrebeA pair, plus parties of 8 & 14, with a further 3 birds on the nest, Senne wetland, 20/5.Cormorant1, Zemplinska sirava and at Senne wetland, including a breeding colony, 20/5.BitternOne heard booming, Senne wetland, 20/5.Little Bittern1, small wetland near Backa, 20/5.Night Heron1, Zemplinska sirava, 19/5; 2, small wetland near Backa and many at Senne wetland, 20/5.Little Egret1, Zemplinska sirava, 18/5 & 19/5; 1 seen from the bus and at Senne wetland, 20/5.Great White Egret1, Zemplinska sirava, 19/5; 1 overhead near Besa in the Latorica River valley and several at Senne wetland, 20/5; 1,Ondava River, Horovce, 21/5.Grey HeronSeen daily, 18/5-21/5 including several at Senne wetland, 20/5 and 1 near Liptovska Mara reservoir, west ofLiptovska Mikulas, 24/5.Purple Heron6+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Black Stork2 overhead near Besa in the Latorica River valley; 1 over the bee-eater colony between Leles and Kopona; 1, at asmall roadside wetland near Backa and 2 others seen from the bus in the same area, 20/5.White StorkSeen daily, 18/5-24/5; including foraging individuals (often in newly mown or ploughed fields) and birds at villagenests. 30+ gathered on newly mown meadows, Senne wetland, 20/5.Spoonbill13+, Senne wetland, 20/5 and 3 on the wetland south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5.Mute SwanSenne wetland, 20/5.Wigeonc.10, Senne wetland, 20/5.GadwallSenne wetland, 20/5.Teal3+, Senne wetland, 20/5.MallardSeen daily, 19/5-24/5.Garganey9+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Shoveler4+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Pochardc.10, small wetland near Backa and several, Senne wetland, 20/5.Ferruginous Duck2, Senne wetland, 20/5.Tufted DuckSenne wetland, 20/5.Honey Buzzard2, Vechec and 1 near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5; 1, near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5and 1, Dunajec River gorge, Pieniny National Park, 22/5.

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Black Kite1 near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5.Marsh HarrierSeen in the lowlands daily, 18/5-20/5. Spectacular male display flight near Besa in the Latorica River valley andmany at Senne wetland, 20/5.Goshawk1 over forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley and a male, seen from the ‘Globeflower meadow’, TatranskaLomnica, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5; 1 high over the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5.Sparrowhawk1, Vechec, 19/5; 1 over forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley and 1 near the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5.BuzzardSeen daily.Lesser Spotted EagleA very distant individual to the north of Viniansky hrad (the castle ruin west of Hotel Energetik) and 2, Vechec,19/5. Three singles, Budkovce; near Besa in the Latorica River valley and near Drahnov in the Laborec Rivervalley, 20/5. Singles over Cerveny Klastor and to both the north and south of Toporec, 22/5; 1, near the church atSvaty Kriz, 23/5.Imperial EagleSeen on three occasions but site details withheld at the request of SOVS.Golden EagleSeen at a single site but details withheld at the request of SOVS.KestrelSeen daily, 18/5-24/5.Red-footed FalconA female flew over the ‘souslik meadow’ near Vysna Mysl’a, southeast of Kosice, 18/5 and a male, near Besa in theLatorica River valley, 20/5.Hobby2-3, Vechec, 19/5; 1, near Vojany, 20/5; 1 over the Dunajec River at Cerveny Klastor and a party of 8 over the rivergorge, Pieniny National Park, 22/5; 1 near the church at Svaty Kriz and 1 near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley,23/5.SakerSeen at a single site but details withheld at the request of SOVS.Peregrine1 over the goldendrop site, Slovak Karst PLA south of Turniansky hrad and a pair, Zadielska Gorge, Slovak KarstPLA, 21/5; 1 over the Hotel Limba area, 22/5 & 23/5.Hazelhen (Hazel Grouse)1 seen briefly by Marian and David on the forest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park,22/5.Partridge (Grey Partridge)1 seen by Tim in farmland near Cana, southeast of Kosice, 18/5.Quail2, (possibly 3) heard calling in farmland near Cana southeast of Kosice, 18/5; singles heard near Besa in the LatoricaRiver valley and near Drahnov in the Laborec River valley and 1 seen well from the bus near Stretavka, 20/5. 2heard in meadows near Izipovce, Chocske Hills, north of Liptovska Mara reservoir; 1 heard on the high meadowsnorth of Prosiecka Valley and 1 heard en route to the Oravska folk museum east of Zuberec, 24/5.PheasantSeen daily, 18/5-22/5.Corncrake1 heard calling in the evening by Pavol and Steve (He) near the restaurant at Medvedia hora, Zemplinska sirava,19/5.MoorhenSingles, small wetland near Backa and Senne wetland, 20/5.CootA few present on wetlands near Backa and at Senne wetland, 20/5 and on the wetland south of Turniansky hrad,21/5.Little Ringed Plover1, along the shore of Zemplinska sirava near Hotel Energetik, 20/5.Ringed PloverSenne wetland, 20/5.

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LapwingSeen on 18/5 and daily, 20/5-24/5, including several at Senne wetland on 20/5.Little Stint4, Senne wetland, 20/5.Temminck’s Stint1, Senne wetland, 20/5.Curlew Sandpiper3, Senne wetland, 20/5.DunlinSenne wetland, 20/5.RuffSenne wetland, 20/5.Snipe2, Senne wetland, 20/5.Black-tailed Godwit3+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Redshank3, Senne wetland, 20/5.Greenshank2, Senne wetland, 20/5.Wood Sandpiper4+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Common Sandpiper1, Senne wetland, 20/5 and 1 calling along the stream adjacent to Hotel Limba in the early hours of 25/5.Little Gull47+ included a gathering of 30 hawking insects over one of the large fishponds, Senne wetland, 20/5.Black-headed GullSeen daily, 19/5-24/5.Yellow-legged GullSenne wetland, 20/5; 1, Zemplinska sirava, 21/5; 1 eating a dead pike, Dunajec River, Pieniny National Park, 22/5and seen near the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5.Whiskered Ternc.50, Zemplinska sirava; several at the small wetland near Backa and numerous at Senne wetland, 20/5.Black Tern1, small wetland near Backa and 21+, Senne wetland, 20/5.Feral PigeonSmall numbers seen most days.Stock DoveSmall numbers in farmland, 18/5 and 20/5-21/5; 3, forest walk, Slanske Hills and 1 near Backov on the edge of theSlanske Hills, 19/5.WoodpigeonSmall numbers seen daily, 18/5-24/5.Collared DoveSeen daily, 18/5-22/5 and on 24/5.Turtle DoveSmall numbers seen daily, 18/5-20/5 and 22/5-23/5.CuckooSeen or heard daily, 18/5-24/5.Eagle OwlAn adult female at a quarry behind the village of Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5.Ural OwlA female in the vicinity of an occupied nestbox, in beech forest near Byster, east of Kosice, 18/5. A large chick onthe nest was viewed via a strategically placed mirror in the roof of the nestbox! 1, Ciertaze forest area, SlanskeHills, 19/5.Tengmalm’s Owl1 at the nesthole (an old Black Woodpecker’s nest) in forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5.SwiftSmall numbers seen daily, 18/5-20/5 and 22/5-25/5.Bee-eater1 heard overhead near Besa in the Latorica River valley and a small breeding colony between Leles and Kopona,20/5; 7 over the high ‘orchid meadow’ near Lesnica, 22/5.Hoopoe

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1, near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.WryneckSingles heard calling near Pavol’s garden, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5; around Hotel Energetik, Zemplinskasirava, 20/5 and in the park Petrovov sad, Kosice, 25/5.Green Woodpecker1 in Pavol’s garden, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5 and 1, Dunajec River gorge, Pieniny National Park, 22/5.Black Woodpecker1 calling in forest next to the ‘Globeflower meadow’, Tatranska Lomnica, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5; 1giving superb views in forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5 and 1 at the edge of the forest on thehigh meadows north of Prosiecka Valley, 24/5.Great Spotted Woodpecker1 heard drumming in beech forest near Byster, east of Kosice, 18/5; 1 in the meadow behind Pavol’s garden,Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5; 1, Senne wetland, 20/5; Hotel Energetik, Zemplinska sirava, 20/5 & 21/5 andheard, in forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5.Syrian Woodpecker1 in the abandoned vineyards next to the goldendrop site south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5. A nest in the parkPetrovov sad, Kosice, 25/5.Middle Spotted Woodpecker1, near Ba≠kov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.White-backed Woodpecker1 heard on the forest walk, Slanske Hills and 1 gave good views, both perched and in flight, near Backov on theedge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.Lesser Spotted Woodpecker1, near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.Three-toed Woodpecker1 heard calling by a few of the group on the upper part of the forest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, TatraNational Park, 22/5.Woodlark1 singing from telegraph wires, near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.SkylarkSeen daily, 18/5-24/5.Sand MartinSeveral around the sand pit with the bee-eater colony, between Leles and Kopona, 20/5.SwallowSeen daily.House MartinSeen daily, 18/5-24/5. Breeding colony on the rear of Hotel Energetik.Tree PipitSeen daily, 21/5-24/5.Meadow PipitSeveral on the high meadows north of Prosiecka Valley, 24/5.Water PipitSeveral heard in the mist, Chopok, Lower Tatras National Park, 23/5.Blue-headed WagtailSeen daily in the lowlands, 18/5-21/5. Excellent views of a male in arable farmland near Cana, southeast of Kosice,18/5.Grey WagtailSeen daily, 21/5-25/5.White WagtailSeen daily, 18/5-24/5.Dipper1-2, Zadielska Gorge, Slovak Karst PLA, 21/5; 1 on the stream behind Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 22/5 anda juvenile, Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.WrenHeard on the forest walk, Slansk⊕ Hills, 19/5; seen or heard daily, 21/5-25/5.DunnockHeard on the forest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5; seen or heard daily, 22/5-24/5, including several heard singing in themist, Chopok, Lower Tatras National Park, 23/5.Alpine Accentor3 in the mist, seen down to a few feet, Chopok, Lower Tatras National Park, 23/5.RobinSeen or heard daily, 18/5-19/5 & 21/5-24/5.

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NightingaleHeard around Hotel Energetik, 18/5 & 20/5-21/5; near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5; Mala Trna(village with the wine cellars) and near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5. Good views of one for a few of thegroup at the abandoned vineyards next to the goldendrop site south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5.Black RedstartSeen daily.Redstart1 heard singing, Oravska folk museum, east of Zuberec, 24/5.Whinchat1 near the vineyards at Vinicky, 20/5; 1 in meadows near Izipovce, Chocske Hills, north of Liptovska Mara reservoirand 3 on the high meadows north of Prosiecka Valley, 24/5.StonechatSeen daily, 18/5-24/5.WheatearA singing male at the rock thrush quarry, Host’ovce on 21/5.Rock ThrushA singing male: seen at long range on the scrubby ridge above the quarry face, Host’ovce, 21/5.Ring OuzelSuperb views of a male singing from high in the Norway spruce at the ski-lift at Tri Domceky, Lower TatrasNational Park, 23/5 and 3+, Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.BlackbirdSeen daily.FieldfareSeen daily, 18/5-24/5.Song ThrushSeen daily, 19/5-25/5.Mistle ThrushHeard, 19/5 and small numbers seen daily, 21/5-24/5.Grasshopper Warbler2 heard singing (‘reeling’) with one seen briefly by some of the group near Besa, in the Latorica River valley, 20/5.River Warbler2 (one seen very well) near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5 and 1 heard near Toporec, 22/5.Savi’s Warbler2 heard ‘reeling’, Senne wetland, 20/5.Sedge Warbler2+ near Besa in the Latorica River valley and at Senne wetland, 20/5.Marsh WarblerHeard singing in farmland near Cana, southeast of Kosice, 18/5; near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5and near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5. 2 seen, in scrub near Liptovska Mara reservoir, south of LiptovskaSielnica; 1 heard singing in meadows near Izipovce, Chocske Hills, north of Liptovska Mara reservoir, 1, en routeto Oravska folk museum east of Zuberec, 24/5 and 1 singing from scrub by the roadside opposite the church,Liptovska Matiasovce, 24/5.Reed WarblerSeveral heard, Senne wetland, 20/5.Great Reed Warbler1 heard singing at the small wetland near Backa; one seen well by a few of the group and others glimpsed or heard,Senne wetland, 20/5.Icterine WarblerSingles heard near Besa in the Latorica River valley and near Drahnov in the Laborec River valley, 20/5; 1 inLiptovska Mikulas, 24/5 and good views of 1, in the park Petrovov sad, Kosice, 25/5.Barred Warbler1 calling, in farmland near Cana, southeast of Kosice, 18/5; 4+ in scrub near Backov on the edge of the SlanskeHills, 19/5; heard near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5 and 1 calling from scrub near the church at SvatyKriz, 23/5.Lesser WhitethroatSeen or heard daily, 19/5-21/5 & 23/5-25/5.WhitethroatSeen daily, 19/5-24/5.Garden WarblerSeen or heard on 19/5, 21/5 & 24/5.BlackcapSeen or heard in song daily.

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Wood Warbler1 heard, in beech forest near Byster, east of Kosice, 18/5; 2 heard, forest walk, Slanske Hills and 2+ (one seen verywell) in woodland near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5; 4 heard singing on the forest walk nearKezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park and 1 heard singing in the Dunajec River gorge, PieninyNational Park, 22/5; 3+ heard, Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.ChiffchaffSeen on 19/5 and daily, 21/5-24/5.Willow WarblerSeen or heard daily, 20/5-24/5.GoldcrestSeen or heard daily, 21/5-24/5.Firecrest1, Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 22/5 & 23/5 and 1 during brief forest stop near Kezmarske Zl’aby, HighTatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5.Spotted flycatcherSeen daily, 19/5-24/5.Red-breasted Flycatcher1 seen well and others heard in the Ciertaze forest area, Slanske Hills, 19/5; several singing in the Dunajec Rivergorge, Pieniny National Park, 22/5; 1 heard singing, Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Collared Flycatcher1 seen well on the hill Diel and several others heard on the forest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5.Bearded Tit1, Senne wetland, 20/5.Long-tailed titSeveral in the abandoned vineyards next to the goldendrop site south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5; near Hotel Limba,23/5 and near the edge of Liptovska Mara reservoir south of Liptovska Sielnica, 24/5.Marsh Tit1 feeding young, Zadielska Gorge, Slovak Karst PLA, 21/5; feeding young adjacent to the Hotel Limba,Demanovska Valley, 23/5 & 24/5.Crested Tit1 during brief forest stop and another heard on the forest walk, near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra NationalPark, 22/5; 1 heard, Jasna, north of the ski-lift at Tri Domceky, Lower Tatras National Park and 2 seen very well, inforest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5.Coal Tit1 heard on the forest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5; seen or heard daily, 21/5-24/5.Blue titSeen or heard, 19/5-20/5, 22/5 & 24/5.Great titSeen and heard daily, 18/5-22/5 & 24/5-25/5.Nuthatch1 heard, in beech forest near Byster, east of Kosice, 18/5; 1 seen and others heard on the forest walk, Slanske Hills,19/5; heard on the forest walk, near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5 and 1, in the parkPetrovov sad, Kosice, 25/5.Treecreeper3 fledged young and another heard on the forest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5; 1, Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley,22/5; 1 heard singing during brief forest stop and another heard on the forest walk, near Kezmarske Zl’aby, HighTatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5.Penduline Tit1 making frequent visits to the nest, plus 2-3 others seen and heard, near Besa in the Latorica River valley and 4,including one seen at close range at the nest, Senne wetland, 20/5.Golden OrioleHeard calling, early morning, outside Hotel Energetik, Zemplinska sirava, 19/5-21/5; 2-3 heard on the forest walkand 1 at the meadow behind Pavol’s garden, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills and 3+ near Backov on the edge of theSlanske Hills, 19/5; 1, near Besa in the Latorica River valley and 1 heard, near Drahnov in the Laborec River valley,20/5; 1 in the park Petrovov sad, Kosice, 25/5.Red-backed ShrikeSeen daily, 18/5-20/5 & 22/5-24/5, including several near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.Great Grey Shrike3 on the nature reserve adjacent to the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5.JaySeen on 19/5 and daily, 21/5-24/5.

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MagpieSeen daily.Nutcracker1, in the Dunajec River gorge, Pieniny National Park, 22/5; 1 over the forest in the early evening outside HotelLimba, 23/5; 4, in the forest area around Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley and 1, Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills,24/5.JackdawSeen daily.RookSeen daily. A bird of the urban environment and adjacent farmland.Hooded CrowSeen on 18/5; daily, 20/5-22/5 and on 24/5.RavenSeen daily, 18/5-22/5.StarlingSeen daily.House sparrowSeen daily. Breeding at Hotel Energetik.Tree sparrowSeen daily in the lowlands in gardens and farmland, 18/5-21/5. Present around the Hotel Energetik.ChaffinchSeen daily.SerinSeen daily, 19/5-24/5.GreenfinchSeen daily, 19/5-25/5.GoldfinchSeen daily, 18/5-24/5.SiskinSeen daily, in areas of alpine coniferous forest and meadows, 21/5-24/5.LinnetSmall numbers seen daily, 18/5-21/5 & 23/5-24/5.CrossbillA male and female, in forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5.Scarlet Rosefinch3 stunning males, in scrub at the edge of Liptovska Mara reservoir south of Liptovska Sielnica, 24/5.BullfinchSeen daily, 21/5-24/5, including a pair seen frequently outside Hotel Limba, 21/5-23/5 and a pair, Oravska folkmuseum east of Zuberec, 24/5.Hawfinchc.9, near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5; 1 near Drahnov in the Laborec River valley, 20/5; singlesseen around the grounds of Hotel Energetik, Zemplinska sirava, 20/5 & 21/5; 1 over the goldendrop site, SlovakKarst PLA, south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5 and 1 near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5.YellowhammerSeen or heard daily, 19/5-25/5.Rock buntingA male at the goldendrop site, Slovak Karst PLA, south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5.Reed bunting1 near Besa in the Latorica River valley and 1, Senne wetland, 20/5.Corn bunting1, near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5 and 1 near the bee-eater colony between Leles and Kopona,20/5.

Mammals

English & scientific names follow The Atlas of European Mammals (Mitchell-Jones et al. 1999).

Eastern Hedgehog (Erinaceus concolor)1 crossing the track in front of the bus, Senne wetland, 20/5. Road kills noted on 19/5 & 21/5.Lesser Horseshoe Bat (Rhinolophus hipposideros)A roosting group of 42+, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5.

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Brown Hare (Lepus europaeus)1, near Besa in the Latorica River valley; another seen nearby en route and 1, near the bee-eater quarry between Lelesand Kopona, 20/5.Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)1, Hotel Energetik, 19/5 & 20/5; 2, on forest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5;1, Jasna, north of the ski-lift at Tri Domceky, Lower Tatras National Park, 23/5 and 1, en route to Oravska folkmuseum east of Zuberec, 24/5.European Souslik (Spermophilus citellus)Several seen well at close range on a ‘souslik meadow’ near Vysna Mysl’a, southeast of Kosice, 18/5.Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)1 near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5 and 1 seen from the bus travelling from Pieniny National Park, 22/5.Stoat (Mustela erminea)1 Senne wetland, 20/5.Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus)2, forest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5; 1 Senne wetland, 20/5; 1, near Strba and another seen from the bus elsewhere,22/5.

Amphibians & Reptiles

English & scientific names follow A Field Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of Britain and Europe (Arnold & Burton 1978)

Alpine Newt (Triturus alpestris)In ephemeral, water-filled forest track ruts; on the forest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra NationalPark, 22/5. This species and Montandon’s newt in the same habitat.Montandon’s Newt (Triturus montandoni)In ephemeral, water-filled forest track ruts; on the forest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra NationalPark, 22/5.Yellow-bellied Toad (Bombina variegata)1, in a shallow ditch in the meadows near Izipovce, Chocske Hills, north of Liptovska Mara reservoir, 24/5.Fire-bellied Toad (Bombina bombina)Heard at Senne wetland, 20/5.Common Frog (Rana temporaria)Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Marsh Frog (Rana ridibunda)Near Bea in the Latorica River valley and Senn wetland, 20/5.Sand Lizard (Lacerta agilis)An adult female, near Besa in the Latorica River valley, 20/5.Green lizard (Lacerta viridis)A juvenile and an adult male at the goldendrop site, Slovak Karst PLA south of Turniansky hrad, 21/5.Viviparous Lizard (Lacerta vivipara)1 on the forest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5.Common Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis)1 in the steep sides of first stream gorge, Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Grass Snake (Natrix natrix) or Aesculapian Snake (Elaphe longissima)A juvenile of one of these two species found at breakfast in the dining room at Hotel Energetik, 20/5! Released intothe gardens.

Butterflies

English & scientific names largely follow The Mitchell Beazley Pocket Guide to Butterflies (Whalley 1981)

Chequered Skipper (Carterocephalus palaemon)Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Swallowtail (Papilio machaon)1, in flight over the nature reserve adjacent to the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5Small White (Artogeia rapae)Meadow behind Pavol’s house, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5.Green-veined White (Artogeia napi)Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Orange tip (Anthocharis cardamines)

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Slanske Hills, 19/5; forest walk, near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5 and ProsieckaValley, Chocske Hills, 24/5. Also seen at other sites.Brimstone (Gonepteryx rhamni)Meadow behind Pavol’s house, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5; forest walk, near Kezmarske Zl’aby, HighTatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5; Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Wood White (Leptidea sinapis)Near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5; in forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5;Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Camberwell Beauty (Nymphalis antiopa)Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5, seen by Mike and Steve (Ha).Comma (Polygonia c-album)Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Peacock butterfly (Inachis io)Forest walk, near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5.Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary (Clossiana selene)Near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5.Woodland Ringlet (Erebia medusa)Meadow behind Pavol’s house, Juskova Vol’a, Slanske Hills, 19/5; in the globeflower meadow, Tatranska Lomnica,High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5; near the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5 and at sites elsewhere.Speckled Wood (Pararge aegeria)Slanske Hills, 19/5; forest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5; in forest near HotelLimba, Demanovska Valley, 23/5; Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley, Chocske Hills, 24/5.Duke of Burgundy (Hamearis lucina)Near Backov on the edge of the Slanske Hills, 19/5; near the church at Svaty Kriz, 23/5 and Prosiecka Valley,Chocske Hills, 24/5.

Dragonflies

Broad-bodied Chaser (Libellula depressa)A male at a shallow ditch in the meadows near Izipovce, Chocske Hills, north of Liptovska Mara reservoir, 24/5.

Some miscellaneous invertebrates

Two species of Longhorn beetleForest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5 and Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills,24/5.A large, spotted weevilForest walk near Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National Park, 22/5 and Prosiecka Valley, Chocske Hills,24/5.Field CricketRoman SnailIn the abandoned vineyards next to the goldendrop site south of Turniansky hrad and in Zadielska Gorge, SlovakKarst PLA, 21/5. Also seen elsewhere.Carpathian Blue SlugForest walk, Slanske Hills, 19/5. Endemic to the Carpathian mountains region.

Flowering and other plants

Saturday, 18 May Beech forest near Byster, east of Kosice (Ural owl wood)Asarabacca Asarum europaeumBird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avisCoral-root Bitter-cress Cardamine bulbiferaGoldilocks Buttercup Ranunculus auricomusHerb-Paris Paris quadrifoliaMay Lily Maianthemum bifoliumMidland Hawthorn Crataegus laevigataSanicle Sanicula europaeaSolomon’s-seal sp. Polygonatum

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Sunday, 19 May Slanske HillsVlci potok (Wolf’s stream) & Ciertaze forest areaAsarabacca Asarum europaeumBird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avisCoral-root Bitter-cress Cardamine bulbiferaDwarf Elder Sambucus ebulusGoldilocks Buttercup Ranunculus auricomusGreater Celandine Chelidonium majusHerb-Robert Geranium robertianumLarge Yellow Foxglove Digitalis ambigua (= grandiflora)Pyramidal Bugle sp. Ajuga pyramidalis or genevensisStrawberry sp. FragariaTormentil Potentilla erectaWoodruff Galium odoratumWood-sorrel Oxalis acetosella

Meadow behind Pavol’s house, Juskova Vol’aSticky Catchfly Lychnis viscaria

Forest & scrub near Backov on the edge of the Slanske HillsBird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avisCommon Twayblade Listera ovataLesser Butterfly Orchid Platanthera bifoliaWhite Helleborine Cephalanthera damasonium

Monday, 20 MayNear Besa in the Latorica River valleyCarthusian Pink Dianthus carthusianorumDropwort Filipendula vulgarisYellow Vetch Vicea lutea

Small wetland near BackaCornflower Centaurea cyanus

Tuesday, 21 MayGoldendrop site, Turniansky hradny vrch, Slovak Karst Protected Landscape AreaBastard Balm Melittis melissophylluma Bearded Viper’s-grass sp. Scorzonera sp. (abundant, low seed heads scattered over the dry karst)Bladder Campion Silene vulgarisBloody Crane’s-bill Geranium sanguineuma Broomrape sp. OrobancheField Cow-wheat Melampyrum arvenseField Eryngo Eryngium campestreFlax sp. LinumInflated Milk-vetch Astragalus vesicarius ssp. albidus Subspecies endemic to Eastern SlovakiaManna (or Flowering) Ash Fraxinus ornus (rare & protected in Slovakia)Houseleek sp. SempervivumJurinea Jurinea mollis ssp. macrocalathia Subspecies endemic to the Slovak Karst regionMeadow Clary Salvia pratensisMeadow-rue sp. Thalictruma Rockrose Helianthemum nummularium ssp. grandiflorumTurna Goldendrop Onosma tornensis (unbranched) Endemic to the Slovak Karst regionYellow Woundwort Stachys recta

Zadielska gorge, Slovak Karst Protected Landscape AreaCommon Columbine Aquilegia vulgarisDusky Crane’s-bill Geranium phaeumHoary Plantain Plantago mediaMountain (or Blue) Lettuce Lactuca perennisPerennial Honesty Lunaria rediviva

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Slovak Paradise National Park, north of Dobsina (brief roadside stop)Aconite-leaved Buttercup Ranunculus aconitifoliusAlpine Clematis Clematis alpinaCommon Columbine Aquilegia vulgarisGreat Masterwort (or Mountain Sanicle) Astrantia majorGreat Meadow-rue Thalictrum aquilegifoliumLily-of-the-valley Convallaria majalisa Mountain Cornflower Centaurea montana or triumfettiRampion sp. PhyteumaSwallow-wort Vincetoxicum hirundinariaWhorled Solomon’s-seal Polygonatum verticillatumYellow Melancholy Thistle Cirsium eristithales

Wednesday, 22 MayGlobeflower meadow, Tatranska Lomnica, High Tatras, Tatra National ParkBistort Polygonum bistortaBroad-leaved Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza majalisForget-me-not Myosotis sp.Globeflower Trollius europaeusLady’s-mantle Alchemilla mollisMeadowsweet Filipendula ulmariaWater Avens Geum rivale

Kezmarske Zl’aby, High Tatras, Tatra National ParkAlpine Clematis Clematis alpinaAsarabacca Asarum europaeumBitter Vetchling Lathyrus montanusBroad-leaved Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza majalisButterbur sp. PetasitesColtsfoot Tussilago farfaraCoral-root Bitter-cress Cardamine bulbiferaDog’s Mercury Mercurialis perennisDusky Crane’s-bill Geranium phaeumGoatsbeard Spiraea Aruncus dioicusa Great Yellow Gentian Gentiana sp.Lady’s-mantle sp. AlchemillaLeopardsbane sp. Doronicum sp.Marsh-marigold Caltha palustrisMay Lily Maianthemum bifoliumOxlip Primula elatiorPyramidal Bugle sp. Ajuga pyramidalis or genevensisSquare-stalked St. John’s-wort Hypericum tetrapterumStrawberry sp. FragariaTormentil Potentilla erectaWater Avens Geum rivaleWhorled Solomon’s-seal Polygonatum verticillatuma Wood Horsetail Equisetum sp.a Wood Melick Melica sp.Woodruff Galium odoratumWood-sorrel Oxalis acetosellaWood Spurge Euphorbia amygdaloidesYellow Archangel Lamiastrum galeobdolon

Pieniny National ParkAlpine Aster Aster alpinusDianthus praecox ssp. hungarica (white, ‘frilly-edged’ flower)Rampion sp. Phyteumaa tall Saxifrage sp. Saxifraga sp.Swallow-wort Vincetoxicum hirundinariaLesnica

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Broad-leaved Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza majalisCommon Twayblade Listera ovataCrosswort Galium cruciataFrog Orchid Coeloglossum virideLady’s-mantle Alchemilla mollisMilitary Orchid Orchis militaris

Thursday, 23 MayChopok, Lower Tatras National ParkLeast Primrose Primula minimaa Snowbell Soldanella carpaticaWhite Pasque Flower Pulsatilla alba

Wet grassland area near the church at Svaty Kriz,Broad-leaved Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza majalisMarsh Cinquefoil Potentilla palustrisSilverweed Potentilla anserina

Forest near Hotel Limba, Demanovska Valley,Bird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avis

Friday, 24 MayCorncrake meadows near Izipovce, Chocske Hills, north of Liptovska Mara reservoirBroad-leaved Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza majalisPink sp. DianthusSainfoin sp. Onobrychis

Prosiecka (‘Bear’) Valley, Chocske HillsAlpine Aster Aster alpinusBird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avisBroad-leaved Marsh-orchid Dactylorhiza majalis (up on the wet alpinemeadows above the valley)Butterbur sp. PetasitesClusius’s Gentian Gentiana clusiiCommon Columbine Aquilegia vulgarisCommon Twayblade Listera ovataCotton-grass sp. Eriophorum sp.Edelweiss Leontopodium alpinumGreat Meadow-rue Thalictrum aquilegifoliumKidney Vetch Anthyllis vulnerariaLady’s-mantle Alchemilla mollisLesser Butterfly Orchid Platanthera bifoliaPasque Flower sp. PulsatillaSpleenwort sp. AspleniumSwallow-wort Vincetoxicum hirundinariaYellow Wood Violet Viola biflora

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Dear Honeyguiders,

Perhaps you still keep in your memories the impressions from your trip to Slovakia last May. One of top birdingdestinations was then the area of Senne including fishponds, nature reserve and meadows.

The area of c. 1,500 hectares is a variety of wetland habitats including open water surface, submerged watervegetation and dense scrub, water channels and oxbows, mesophile and wet meadows, bird islets, etc. All theseprovide conditions for c. 150 water bird species of which for 25 Senne is the only and/or the most importantbreeding site in Slovakia and as such was in 2000 designated as the European Important Bird Area (IBA) accordingto the criteria set up by BirdLife International.

Unfortunately, in last 10 years the look of Senne is changing dramatically. Insufficient capacities of the state tomanage the nature reserve, privatisation and restoration of the fishponds, reduction of reed beds and increasedhunting on birds, drying out the lowlands and collapsing agriculture lead to changes of water habitats resulting inrapid declines in numbers of both breeding and migrating birds.

Since 1996 the Society for the Protection of Birds in Slovakia (SOVS) – the Slovak BirdLife Partner undertakesinitiatives aiming to recover the importance of Senne for birds and people. In 1999-2002 SOVS revitalised one offormer wet meadows through repairing 250 metres long dyke, two sluices and bridge across the dyke which allowedflooding of 120 hectares large meadow named Ostrovik (Islet).

These actions brought massive spring concentrations of migrating water birds to the meadow, namely geese (1,000-3,500), ruffs (up to 25,000), black-tailed godwits (600), lapwings (500), hundreds of garganeys, great dunlins,shovelers, teals and black-headed gulls, tens of great and little white egrets, curlews, whimbrels, avocets etc.Moreover, also rarely occurring stilts, glossy ibis, squacco herons, cranes and cattle egret (the first recorded inSlovakia) occurred and some typical wet meadow birds (garganey, teal, gadwall, lapwing, redshank, black-tailedgodwit), after years of their breeding absence, even bred there successfully in 2002.

In 1997-2002 SOVS has organised at Senne up to 20 labour camps for its members and volunteers who workedhardly in the reserve (coppicing successive willow scrub, clearing bird islets, mowing dykes). SOVS has alsopromoted the site in public through producing a representative colourful booklet, publishing articles in magazinesand giving interviews to media, carrying out surveys of globally threatened bird species (Ferruginous Duck, AquaticWarbler) and populations of migrating water birds, etc.

Finally, in 2001-2002 SOVS has taken lead in drawing a new management plan for the Senne nature reserve.Extensive Analysis of existing breeding and feeding conditions for birds has been made. These have shown the keythreats to the reserve are damaged dykes, insufficient water supply & management, keeping an intensive carp fishstock, lack of reed beds and lagoons, insufficient capacities of the State Nature Conservancy to carry outmanagement activities, etc). SOVS, in collaboration with experts from RSPB and BirdLife, has proposed and iscurrently starting to implement measures such as creation of reed beds, reduction of successive willow scrub,increasing water levels and flow of water, repairing sluices & dykes and promoting the site via Internet.

Such a progress, however, would not be possible without financial contributions provided by various partneringorganisations. Every year Slovak and foreign birders come to Senne to find it a fantastic place for exploring birdsand many of them contribute with donations, knowledge or hands. SOVS wishes to say MANY THANKS to all,including the Honeyguide's clients, for coming to Senne and for their support which, besides the funds, provides usalso with a new enthusiasm for next actions.

Therefore, THANK YOU, ‘Honeyguiders’, again and look forward to see you in Slovakia in 2003!

Pavol KanuchSOVS Conservation OfficerAugust 2002