Dirty  Dozen    

 SLS/ALS/  Sulphates  These   ingredients   are   responsible   for  the   foaming   action   of   cleaning  products.     By   removing   the  sebum/sweat   protective   barrier,  sulphates   are   responsible   for  increasing   our   skins   permeability,  leading   to   greater   absorption   of  hazardous  ingredients.    Removing  this  barrier   also   aggravates   skin   disease  such   as   eczema,   leading   to   potential  infections  from  bacteria.  For   many   people,   sulphates   give   the  shiny  squeaky  feeling  of  being  “clean”  which   is   actually   a   sign   you   skins  protection   has   been   removed.     From  an  esthetic  point  of  view,  removing  the  sebum   form   our   skin   and   scalp   leads  to   dry   dehydrated   skin   and   scalp,  brittle   hair,   hair   loss   and   increases  signs  of  aging.    Parabens  Parabens  are  added   to   cosmetics   as   a  preservative   and   to   prevent   the  growth  of  bacteria  and  fungus.  Different   names   for   these   products  are:   ethylparaben,   butylparaben,  methylparaben  and  propylparaben.      Once   absorbed   into   the   body,  parabens  act  on  the  endocrine  system  and  are  known  as  hormone  disrupters.    They   mimic   the   action   of   oestrogen  and   can   contribute   to   oestrogen  dominancy  syndrome.      FD  &  C  Color  Pigments  Colourants,   found   in   hair   dyes   and  make  up.    Through  skin  absorption  or  inhalation,   these   ingredients   have  been   found   to   effect   the   nervous  system  and  contribute  to  heavy  metal  toxicity.  •aluminum   lakes  •astaxanthin  •azulene  •canthaxanthin  •carmine   (because   of   the   synthetic  process  used  to   secure  the  color   from  the   insects)  •sodium   copper   chlorophyllin  (chlorophyll)  •D&C   colors   (all)  •FD&C   colors   (all)  •iron   oxides  •titanium   dioxide  •ultramarine  •zinc  oxide    

Ingredients  in  mainstream  cosmetics  have  been  linked  to  a  number  of  health  concerns  and  recent  research  has  shown  that  over  3-­‐6kgs  of  cosmetics  are  absorbed  into  our  bodies  every  year.      It  is  estimates  that  an  average  daily  use  of  cosmetics  and  hygiene  products  leaves  us  exposed  to  over  500  different  toxins.  Here  is  a  list  and  summary  of  ingredients  that  have  shown  to  produce  adverse  side  effects  on  our  skin  and  health.    This  list  is  by  no  means  exclusive.    However,  in  general,  a  product,  which  does  not  contain  any  of  the  following  and  is  registered  organic,  will  not  contain  harmful  chemicals.      For  further  research  or  to  guarantee  the  safety  of  a  product,  please,  www.ewg.org/skindeep.    This  website  gives  a  hazard  rating  as  well  as  discusses  research  which  has  been  carried  out.  

 

“If  you  can’t  eat  it,  don’t  put  it  on  your  skin”                                                    Unknown  

Ingredients  to  Avoid  • SLS/ALS/Sulphates  • Parabens  • FD&C  Pigments  • Silicones  • Formayldehyde  • Mineral  Oil  • Phalates  • DEA/MEA/TEA  • Propylene  Glycol  

 

   

Dirty  Dozen    

Silicones  or  –cones  Many  ingredients  ending  in  the   letters  cone   are   a   type   of   silicone.     Used   in  cosmetics  to  protect  the  skin  and  hair,  by   leaving   a   layer   over   the   surface.    Research   over   the   effects   of   cone   our  metabolism  is  mixed.    Debate  over  the  molecule   size,   and   whether   or   not  these   molecules   are   small   enough   to  be  absorbed,   is  on  going.     It   is   known  that   silicones   contribute   to   allergic  reactions  and  can  exacerbate  acne.  

 

Cones,  in  hair  products,  give  the  “slip”  effect   and   so   give   the   impression   of  healthy  shiny  hair  when  in  reality  hair  is  extremely  dehydrated  and  damaged,  if  used  over  a   long  period  of  time.    To  remove   silicones,   a   strong   cleaning  agent  is  needed  usually   in  the  form  of  a   sulphate.     This   leads   to   the   vicious  cones  –  sulphate  circle.    

 

It   is   advised   that   when   converting   to  more   natural   oil   based   products,  silicones   are   removed   or   greatly  reduced,   as   they   can   inhibit   the  absorption  of  the  beneficial  oils.  

 Formaldehyde  Restricted   in   Europe,   formaldehyde  can   be   described   using   the   following  names:  

 

•Paraformaldehyde  •Benzylhemiformal  •2-­‐bromo-­‐2-­‐nitropropane-­‐1,   3-­‐diol  •5-­‐bromo-­‐5-­‐nitro-­‐1,   3-­‐dioxane  •Diazolidinyl   urea  •Quaternium-­‐15  •DMDM   Hydantoin  •Sodium   hydroxymethyl  •Glycinate  •Methenamine  

 

Used   widely   to   preserve   dead   tissue,  in  the  body,   formaldehyde   is  a  known  carcinogen.     Further   research   has  shown,   adverse   effects   on   our   lungs,  through   inhalation,   increase   allergies  and  eye  irritation.  

   

We  can  all  be  natural  beauties    It  has  been  said  that  we  should  not  put  in  our  skin  what  we  would  not  eat.    Many  of  the  best  beauty  products  can  be  found  in  our  kitchen.        A  few  tips,  woman  to  woman  or  woman  to  men  even,  when  changing  cosmetics.    Our  skin  will  need  time  to  adapt.    Many  of  us  have  been  exposed  to  these  ingredients  since  childhood  and  in  teenage  years  exposed  to  even  harsher  products  for  “greasy  skin”.    On  average,  expect  a  28-­‐day  cycle  for  your  skin  to  adapt  and  sebum  production  to  regulate.    Many  people  who  thought  they  had  “greasy”  skin,  was  just  the  bodies  reaction  to  the  harsh  removal  of  the  natural  barrier.    Actually  over  production  of  sebum  can  be  a  sign  that  you  have  very  sensitive  skin.        You  will  notice,  that  oil  is  the  preferred  cleaners  and  moisturizer  for  you  skin.    For  those  adverse  to  the  “oily”  sensation,  this  is  usually  the  side-­‐effect  of  using  silicone  containing  products.    Oils  will  not  be  absorbed  and  so  will  “sit”  on  the  skin.    Be  aware  of  this  in  the  beginning,  once  you  have  removed  silicone  items,  your  skin  will  absorb  the  oils  very  quickly.    Our  hair  will  have  also  been  exposed  to  harsh  conditions  for  years  and  being  covered  with  silicones.    It  can  become  wild  when  we  stop  using  these  products.    This  can  be  very  shocking  and  distressing  at  first.    Where  some  damage  will  need  to  be  addressed  with  a  scissors  –  you  do  not  have  to  shave  your  head.    Natural  products  such  as  honey,  aloe  vera  can  rehydrate  your  hair  and  vinegar  can  accelerate  the  recovery  time  form  alkaline  to  the  acid  environment  your  scalp  will  need  to  repair.      

 

 

 

                 

 

 

Dirty  Dozen      Mineral  Oil  A  major   ingredient   in   infant   care   and  baby   oil,   mineral   oil   is   derived   from  petrochemicals.     Absorbed   over   time  into   our   blood   stream,   it   can   affect  endocrine   metabolism   and   cause  allergies.     For   esthetic   purposes,   it  coats   the   skin   and   prevents   the   skin  from  “breathing”.    Phalates  Often   listed   as   parfum   or   fragrance,  phalates   are   used   in   cosmetics   as  perfume  fixers,  prolonging  the  odor  of  a  product.  Concerns   over   the   ingredient   have  arisen   over   potential   effects   on   a  woman’s   fertility   and   on   children’s  health.    DEA   (diethanolamine),   MEA  (monoethanolamine),   TEA  (triethanolamine)  Used  to  enhance  foam  production  and  a  pH  adjuster.    There   is  restricted  use  in  Europe.      A  known  irritant,  these  products  affect  the   stomach,   liver,   oesophygus   and  bladder,  causing  inflammation.    Phenoxyethanol  Found   naturally   in   green   tea   and  chicory,   use   in   cosmetics   is   from   a  synthetic  source.    It  acts  as  a  fragrance  stabilizer  and  preservative.    A  known  irritant,  to  the  skin,  research  is   showing   that   is   can   be   organ   toxic  and   accumulates   over   time   in   the  body.    More  research   is  being  done  to  the  full  effects  of  P  on  our  system.    Propylene  Glycol  (PG)  PG,   also   present   in   anti-­‐freeze,   is  found   in  many   liquid   products   acting  as   a   penetration   enhancer   and  prevents   products   from   melting   in  heat   and   solidifying   in   cold.     It   has  been   seen   to   be   an   endocrine  disrupter,   immune-­‐toxic   and  neurotoxic.    Children  are  greatly  effect  by  this  product.  In   anti-­‐aging   products,   the   use   of   PG  aims   to   hide   the   appearance   of   fine  lines.    Due  to  its  deep  penetration  into  the   skin   and   attracting   water  molecules,   PG   causes   the   skin   to  “plump   up”,   giving   the   impression   of  smoother  skin.    

 

Cleaners    Oil  is  the  best  cleanser  –a  s  oil  removes  oil,  a  well  known  fact  in  Roman  times.  There  are  various  oils  out  there  –  Coconut,  Hemp,  Grapeseed,  Avocado,  Sweet  Almond,  and  Jojoba.    Choose  the  one,  which  suits  your  skin,  the  best.    Method  –  Cleansing  and  Make-­‐up  removal  

• Use  about  a  tablespoon  or  less  of  your  chosen  oil  • Massage  into  your  skin.    This  can  also  be  used  to  remove  

eye  make  up.  • Take  a  hot,  wet,  natural  fibre  cloth.  • Use  to  remove  the  oil  form  you  skin,  rinse  and  repeat  

until  clear.    This  will  remove  the  oil.    For  those  who  are  adverse  to  the  oil  method,  milk  is  a  very  effective  cleanser  but,  see  reason  below,  will  require  further  moisture  after  use.    Add  a  few  drops  of  your  essential  oil,  just  one  or  two,  to  create  a  nicer  smell  and  deliver  the  benefits  of  essential  oils  to  your  skins.    

Facemasks  These  are  single  item  facemasks.    There  are  literally  thousands  of  facemask  combinations,  but  when  you  are  rushing  and  want  to  treat  your  skin,  these  recipes  are  quick  and  efficient.    Labneh  or  Sour  cream  or  any  fermented  dairy  products;  These  items  contain  lactic  acid  and  containing  good  fats,  will  sooth  the  skin.    Lactic  Acid  will  act  as  a  very  mild  chemical  exfoliant  and  will  eat  dead  skin  cells  that  may  clog  pours.    Honey  is  a  humectant  and  will  attract  water  to  your  skin  rehydrating  it.    Honey,  natural,  organic  and  unprocessed,  also  has  anti-­‐bacteria,  anti-­‐fungal  and  anti-­‐inflammatory  properties.    It  can  relieve  and  reduce  skin  redness  often  seen  in  roseaca  and  acne.    Egg  white  may  be  the  least  tasty  of  the  facemasks  but  highly  efficient  to  tighten  skin.    One  egg  white,  slightly  whipped,  and  apply  to  clean  skin  for  15  minutes.    Rinse  with  cold  water  to  further  enhance  the  effect.    Other  ingredients  can  be  combined  with  the  above  to  make  you  own  custom  face  treatment.    Examples  can  be  avocado,  banana,  oats,  organic  sugar,  argile  clay,  papaya.          

     

Recommended    

New  Earth  supplies  fantastic  products  not  only  for  you  skin  but  also  for  you  house.    ACHRAFIEH  ZAHRET  EL  IHSAN  ST  /  ABC  DBAYEH  L3,  Beirut,  Lebanon    Mademoiselle  Bio;  The  Sephora  of  organic,  bio  body  care  products  Tel:  +331  48  87  87  50    Alexandra  Soveral,  creator  and  owner  of  her  own  line  of  organic  products,  spent  more  than  four  years  studying,  researching  and  developing  her  products  using  only  the  highest  quality  ingredients.    Available  at  her  London  clinic,  is  her  signature  organic  facial  Tel:  +44207  266  3577    Neal’s  Yard  Remedies  based  in  London  and  have  a  wide  range  of  products  for  men,  women  and  children.  Tel:  +44207  379  7222    ZAO  Make-­‐up  is  a  brand  of  make-­‐up  that  I  use  personally.    Ingredients  include  bamboo  powder    www.zaomakeup.com    

Online  Retailers  www.naturisimo.com  www.ayanature.com  www.bazar-­‐bio.fr    Melvita, Santé, Beneco, NVEY Eco, Green People, Lavera, Couleur Caramel, COSLYS, Burt’s Bees, Weleda, So’Bio, Barefoot Botanicals, Pai, Essentail Care, Trevorno, Trilogy……

 

 Floral  waters  can  then  be  used  to  tone  and  close  your  skins  pores.    They  can  also  be  used  through  the  day  to  rehydrate  your  skin.    Rose  water  and  orange  flower  water  so  prevalent  in  Lebanon  are  the  most  highly  recommended.        

Moisturizing  &  Facial  Oils  Creams,  no  matter  the  brand  or  expense  are  inefficient  in  providing  care  and  nourishment  for  our  skin.    Most  facial  creams,  are  a  majority  water  (aqua),  which  quickly  evaporates  from  our  skin.        However  use  of  organic  moisturizers,  free  of  toxic  ingredients  are  beneficial  during  the  day  as  they  offer  additional  protection  to  our  natural  mantle  against  environmental  effects.    For  evening,  your  skin  needs  to  be  nourished.    Oils  are  the  only  products  that  are  absorbed  deep  enough  into  the  skins  layers  to  deliver  their  goodness.    Find  an  oil  what  suits  your  skin  type.    Recommended  

• Coconut  Oil  • Avocado  Oil  • Argan  Oil  • Cameilla  Oil  • Apricot  Oil  • Rosehip  Oil  

 

Babies  and  Toddlers    Much  of  the  information  contained  in  this  information  sheet  is  aimed  at  men,  women  and  teenagers.    However  the  products  used  of  infants  and  toddlers  is  very  important.    More  research  is  come  to  light  shown  that  even  in  the  womb,  babies  can  absorb  these  chemicals  and  so  over  time  form  use  since  birth,  toxins  will  build  up  in  the  babies  system.    As  our  skin  can  effectively  “clean  itself”,  the  use  of  harsh  soaps  and  shampoos  is  not  necessary  to  cleans  your  baby.    This  is  not  necessary  until  your  little  one  can  rolling  the  mud  and  wonder  why  you  are  cross!    Products  to  research  and  take  into  consideration;  talc  powder,  nappy  rash  cream,  diapers/nappies,  cradle  cap  cream,  baby  massage  oil,  the  most  important,  baby  wipes.    New  products,  which  have  recently  come  on  the  market,  are  washable  diapers.    These  have  come  a  long  way  since  towel  cloth  and  are  highly  effective  and  more  cost  efficient!  

 

 

“When  I  discuss  natural  cosmetics  and  body  care  products,  it  is  from  a  health  practitioners  point  of  view.      

 

Seeing  their  effects  on  my  own  health  and  the  health  of  some  of  my  patients,  I  became  passionate  about  informing  people  of  their  effects.      

 

The  human  race  has  for  thousands  of  years  decorated  the  body  with  jewelery  and  body  paint,  and  this  tradition  has  and  will  continue.      

 

People  need  to  refuse  to  use  sub-­‐standard  ingredients  and  with  more  people  demanding  safe,  natural  products  maybe  big  cosmetics  companies  will  listen.”  

   

Julia  Edgely  BSc(Hons)  Homeopathy  

L.C.H.E  

 The  Ostoepathic  Practice  251  Che  des    Gourettes,  06370  Mouans-­‐Sartoux  

 Tel  :  +336  27  09  68  57  www.vie4vitality.com  

Skype  JULICZA    

 

Haircare  natural  or  otherwise  can  be  a  laborious  and  challenging  activity  until   you   find  products   that  work   for  you.    Remember,   after   years   of   using   silicone   based   products,   your  hair  has  suffered  a  lot  and  you  will  see  this  once  you  cease  their  use.     Generally,   to   save   the   situation   your   hair   needs  nourishment  and  lots  of  it.      For  all  recipes,  leave  the  mask  in  your  hair  for  at  least  1  hours  covered   in   a   hot   towel   and   rinse   with   warm   not   hot   water  before  shampooing  as  normal.    Honey,  Aloe  Vera  Gel  and  Eggs  Whip  all  these  ingredients  together.    Apply  a  top  towel  to  your  head   or   if   you   can   stand   it,   go   to   bed   with   this   in   your   hair.      Heat  in  the  hot  towel  or  naturally  for  you  head  helps  to  absorb  the   goodness   from   the   ingredients.     Rinse   your   hair   in  warm,  not  hot,  water  and  shampoo  as  normal.    Banana,  Egg  &  Coconut  Oil/Avocado  Oil    This  is  personally  my  favourite.    As  someone  with  very  long  hair  and   so  dry  ends,   this  mask   in  highly  affective  and  your  hair   is  left  very  soft  afterwards!    Combine   all   ingredients   well;   otherwise   you   will   have   large  chunks  of  banana  to  pick  out  of  you  hair  for  days!    Apply,  first  to  the  ends  of  your  hair  and  final  to  your  roots.      Egg,  Aloe  Vera  Gel  and  Caster  Oil  An  excellent  mask,  especially  for  the  scalp  and  roots,  apply  to  the  ends  of  the  hair  at  the  end.    

Conditioner/Styling  After  regular  masks,  the  regular  use  of  conditioners  is  drastically  reduced.    For  those  who  wish  to  style  their  hair,  there  are  a  few  steps  in  preparation.    Straightening    After  washing,  on  damp  hair  rub,  ¼  teaspoon  of  oil  of  your  choice  into  the  ends  of  your  hair.      Leave  hair  to  air-­‐dry,  as  long  as  possible.  For  heat  drying  and  straightening,  Argan  Oil  is  the  best,  again  only  ¼  teaspoon  into  the  ends  of  your  hair.    

Hair  Colour  Understandably  after  years  of  dying  your  hair,  it  is  not  an  easy  decision  to  go  all  natural.    However,  there  are  fantastic  products  out  there.  For  darker  hair  there  is  natural  Henna  but  for  other  colours  companies  such  as  Organic  Colour  Systems,  are  available.  www.organiccoloursystems.com