design brief: 8 **(this is the task that you have been … · corsets 1:! what is a corset? the...

Design Brief:

•  Context: •  Plants and insects have interesting colours, shapes, patterns and textures. Some plants and insects are deadly; they

can be poisonous, carnivorous, strangling and stinging. Others use camouflage to protect themselves. Artists and designers have used these qualities as a starting point in their work.

•  Brief: •  Design and make a corset or waistcoat based on a theme of plants and insects. •  The design might include a range of materials: fabric, paper, wire, poly-pockets, wool, plastic.

•  Some of the textiles techniques that you might use are: fabric painting, quilting, applique, tie and dye, stencil printing, walleting, distressing/ageing, couching, marbling, machine sewing, fabric pen, fringing and texture rubbing.

•  The problems that you might have are; - using a sewing machine. - doing research drawing. - drawing design ideas. - explaining design ideas with notes. - judging how good the work is and suggesting improvements. - making presentation neat. - using correct spelling and punctuation.

•  Deadline: End of January

**(this is the task that you have been given).

Use this information to write your design specification.

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Corsets 1: What is a corset? The corset is an upper body garment. It is worn around the waist and is laced tightly to hold it in place. It reduces the waist size and supports the breasts (pushing up or flattening).

The history of the corset: The first corset was called a kirtle: a close-fitting bodice. It was worn by serving women as a symbol of their servant status. The corset became fashionable when it was worn by wealthy women to give them small waists and to support the bust. This is called the ‘hour-glass’ figure and it has always been the most popular shape in fashion. The ‘ideal’ waist size was 18 inches. Baby girls were introduced to the corset at 2 years old. The corsets changed shape to fit a growing girl’s body. Wearing a corset was thought to be healthy and supportive. Not wearing a corset was thought improper and ‘rude’. These women were called ‘ape-leaders’ (early feminists).

Task: answer the questions with full sentences. 1.  What is a corset? 2.  What was the first corset called and who

wore it? 3.  Why did the corset become fashionable? 4.  What is the ideal hour-glass figure? 5.  When did women first start to wear the

corset? 6.  Why did early feminists refuse to wear a

corset?

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An American woman Cathy Jung currently holds the world record for the smallest corseted waist. Her waist is 13 inches.

1950

Assessment Objective 1

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Demonstrating understanding of artists & designers’ work.

Show a generally consistent understanding of artists & designers’ work.

Show a consistent understanding of artists & designers’ work.

A confident and highly developed understanding and analysis of artists & designers‘ work.

Corsets 2: What materials are corsets made of? The materials used to make the corset have changed as technology has developed. Early corsets were made of iron moulded into a body shape and divided into 3 parts: a front and 2 backs. These were Hinged together and laced at the back for a snug fit. This was very heavy and uncomfortable to wear. Later on, corsets were made of fabric or leather supported by wood and metal rods. Whale-bone supports were used in the 19th century because it was lightweight, flexible and cheap. This gave women more freedom to work and do sports. Modern corsets are supported by plastic and steel rods. Modern corsets are cheap and easier to wear. The corset has changed shape to fit in with fashion and changing role of women as they became more active.

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Strips of whale-bone support the corset.

The back of the corset has eye-lets. Ribbon is laced through the eye-lets and pulled tight.

1600 to 1790. 1790 to 1810 1810 to 1830 1840 to 1860 1860 to 1900 1900 to 1910

Corsets 3: How is the modern corset worn? Throughout history the corset has been worn by women as a must-have item of under-wear. Not many modern women wear a corset every day because it is restrictive. It would stop them from working and doing sports. These days the corset is worn as under-wear and as outer-wear for special occasions such as weddings, school-proms etc. The corset is thought to be sexy and glamorous. In the 1990s Madonna was the first famous person to wear it as an outer- garment during her ‘Blonde Ambition’ tour. It was designed by the fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier and it was thought to be very shocking at the time. Other fashion designers have been inspired by the corset eg. John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood.

Did men wear corsets? It was mostly worn by women but a few men wore a corset in the 1800s to give them a smaller waist instead of doing exercise. Men were more likely to have whale-bone supports sewn into their waistcoats because it still let them work and do sports.

Task: answer the questions with full sentences. 1.  What materials have corsets been made of? 2.  Why have corsets changed over time? 3.  Why don’t modern women wear a corset

every day? 4.  How is the corset worn these days? 5.  Who made the corset fashionable again? 6.  Why did men wear corsets?

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Mr Pearl designs and makes corsets. He wears a corset full-time.


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Corsets 4: What are the health issues? Wearing a corset was thought to be healthy and provide support, but it caused lots of health problems. Deformed rib cage – tight lacing distorted soft young bones, whilst older bones broke. Spinal problems – the spine was weakened with no exercise and by being held in an unnatural position. Organ displacement – body organs were pushed out of place and often didn’t work correctly. Respiratory problems – lungs couldn’t take in as much oxygen and this made breathing harder. Women often fainted because of lack of oxygen. Digestive problems – food had to be eaten in very small amounts and it had to be soft to help with digestion. Infertility – the reproductive organs were sometimes damaged which often caused miscarriage. Poor circulation – blood circulation was restricted. Kidney problems – kidneys were unable to remove waste and caused a build up of poison in the body.

Task: answer the questions with full sentences. 1.  Why was wearing a corset thought to be good

for the health? 2.  Why did women faint so often? 3.  What is organ displacement? 4.  List the health problems. 5.  Why did women continue to wear an the

corset when it endangered their health? 6.  Would you wear a corset every day? Say why.

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Waistcoats 1: What is a waistcoat? The waistcoat is an upper body garment. It is a sleeveless upper body garment. It is the third piece in a three-piece business suit. It is worn over a dress shirt and under a coat or jacket.

The history of the waistcoat: Early waistcoats were only worn by men. The waistcoat was introduced by King Charles 2nd of England in 1666 as part of correct court dress for men. It was inspired by Persian vests seen by English visitors to Persia. It was first called a ‘vest’ but the name changed to ‘waistcoat’ when they were cut to waist level. During the 1600s and 1700s waistcoats were highly decorated with embroidery and very brightly coloured. Between 1810 and 1850 waistcoats became shorter and tight-fitting. They became less decorated and began to be seen as an undergarment with a figure-enhancing effect. After 1850 waistcoats became looser and less restrictive. This was Because more men were becoming more active and involved in new sports. By this time the waistcoat was part of the three-piece suit. A man was not Thought to be properly dressed or respectable if he didn’t wear a waistcoat. The waistcoat was still worn up until 1950 as everyday-wear but then became unpopular in the 1950s when men preferred to wear pullovers and cardigans.

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Task: answer the questions with full sentences. 1.  What is a waistcoat? 2.  Who first introduced the waistcoat? 3.  How did it get the name ‘waistcoat’? 4.  How did the waistcoat change over time? 5.  Why did it lose it’s popularity in the 1950s? 6.  How was it used to improve body-shape? 7.  Give examples of health problems that

might be caused by wearing a waistcoat.


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Waistcoats 2: How to get the perfect figure: To get the perfect figure men sometimes wore a corset in the 1800s to give them a smaller waist instead of doing exercise. However, more men had whale-bone stiffeners in their waistcoats. These waistcoat were laced had eye-lets at the back and had reinforced buttons up the front. Ribbons were laced through the eye-lets and pulled tight. They improved the figure shape but still allowed men to do some physical activity.

What are the health issues? Wearing a laced waistcoat was thought to be healthy and supportive but it could cause health problems. Deformed rib cage – tight lacing distorted soft young bones, whilst older bones broke. Spinal problems – the spine was weakened with no exercise and by being held in an unnatural position. Organ displacement – body organs were pushed out of place and often didn’t work correctly. Respiratory problems – lungs couldn’t take in as much oxygen and this made breathing harder. Men couldn’t do Challenging exercise because of lack of oxygen. Digestive problems – food had to be eaten in very small amounts and it had to be soft to help with digestion. Poor circulation – blood circulation was restricted. Kidney problems – kidneys were unable to remove waste and caused a build up of poison in the body.

Men suffered fewer health problems than women wearing corsets because few wore a laced waistcoat.

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Mr Pearl designs and makes corsets. He wears a corset and laced waistcoat full-time. What do you think of his body-shape?

Waistcoats 3: How is the modern waistcoat worn? Waistcoats became fashionable again during the 1970s when the film Saturday Night Fever became a hit. The actor John Travolta wore it as part of his white three- piece suit when he danced in the film. The modern waistcoat is most often worn as a casual garment by young men eg. with t-shirts, thin jumpers or open-necked shirts. The waistcoat is worn as part of a three-piece suit for smart or important occasions eg. weddings. It is no longer worn as an everyday garment.

What is the modern waistcoat made of? Modern waistcoats are made from a range of materials eg. woven fabric, knitted fabric, felt, leather, PVC.

Modern styles: Modern fashion designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier have been inspired to design new styles with new materials. Some of these are as highly decorated as the 1600s and 1700s waistcoats. Modern waistcoats come in different styles eg. single-breasted fastening, double-breasted fastening, with and without collars. It has changed shape and style to fit in with fashion and uses.

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Waistcoats 3: Did women wear waistcoats? A few rich women wore a corset in the 1800s when they were walking or riding. Waistcoats for women became more popular in the 1900s when fashion designers designed them for the rich and famous women. The actress Marlene Dietrich wore a waistcoat as part of a man’s suit in the film ‘Blue Angel’ in the 1930s. This was considered shocking but other women began to do the same. Today the waistcoat is considered to be a ‘unisex’ garment. This means that it is worn by both sexes. Women are still influenced by this.

Task: answer the questions with full sentences. 1.  How did waistcoats become fashionable in the 1970s? 2.  How is the modern waistcoat worn? 3.  What types of materials are used to make modern

waistcoats? 4.  Give examples of modern design features. 5.  What does ‘unisex’ mean? 6.  When did waistcoats become fashionable for women?

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Compare and contrast these 2 examples. How are they the same? How are they different?

Key words: Fabric painting, unusual, decoration, double-breasted, collar, single-breasted, plain, neck-line.

design brief: 8 **(this is the task that you have been … · corsets 1:! what is a corset? the...

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