aj; at the helm IY~.- ..--.., · ~~.1LlW

Desert frescoes Al-Khaf

Crime stoppers unite! r.... July-August 1975

New. about the men and women 0/ the World'Bank

According to Medouin, the Genies decorated the sbelters Photo by Carole Devillers

With the Blue Men: Part II

Desert trek leads to frescoes . showing a less cruel Sahara

By Carole E. Devillers

Our caravan navigates through dunes and canyons at the slow pace of the camels. Infinity . . . eternity . . . sun . . . sand . . . wind . . . rocks . . . the Sahara unfolds its awesome and treacherous beauty. We go back in time hundreds, thousands of years, leaving the 20th century to discover Biblical and prehistoric times.

Sunset finds us on the barren vol­canic Dider plateau which we share with a herd of goats belonging to a nearby Tuareg encampment. While their men are away, Tuareg women care for the livestock, and every month or so, take all their belongings and children and move a few miles away to seek fresh "pastures". The husband may have to search for his new home when he returns from a caravan journey.

As did our ancestors milleniums ago, we seek shelter by the rocks. We don't have tents, and sleep directly on the sand. Nights in the desert are very

cold and temperatures go down well below freezing. A temperature differ­ence of 90 degrees is not unusual! But embowered in my sleeping bag, and wearing two sweaters and a pair of thick pants, with my head protected by balaclava covering all but my eyes and nose, I am well suited to fight the cold.

Except for the occasional howling of a lonely jackal and the barking back at him from a dog at the camp, all is silence. The solitude is awe-inspiring. In the sky, the moon has joined myri­ads and myriads of stars to make the night so bright that shadows are cast on the ground. For a while I watch the luminous streaks of falling stars befor~ going to sleep, hypnotized, un­der the most glorious skies.

I don't sleep long though ... all of a sudden, in semi-conscious state, I feel something moving. It's right there by my neck. I can feel it crawling on me at the rate of my heart beat. A snake? ... or maybe a tarantula?

Completely awake now, I try not to move, not to breathe. It stops; I know it's a scorpion ready to sting me! But I strike first and in my hurry to get up, I tumble, swathed in the sleeping bag, and fall to my knees. As I reach for the flashlight, I suddenly realize that the cause of my fright is still hanging by my neck: the string of my sleeping bag hood!

Morning arrives, bright and early, and the rising sun quickly melts the thin film of ice covering my downbag. Heads emerge from their respective cocoons, and soon the air resounds with the sound of cheerful animation.

By mid-day, we reach the paintings' sites. Because the terrain is unfit for camels, we go exploring on foot . through a labyrinth of caves and boul­ders. The rock-paintings are easy to see and photograph, for the great ma­jority of them were painted on the overhanging walls of the shelters. The oldest date back 8,000 years and al­though slightly faded, they have been well preserved by the dry air.

Excitement Grows As we go on, excitement grows at

the sight of more and more groups of paintings. We find ourselves con­fronted with an array of giraffes, ele­phants, antelopes . . . with a few sim­ple lines, prehistoric artists have created cattle drinking from a stream, spear­carrying hunters, scenes of wildlife and everyday life. By closely examining these remarkably beautiful frescoes, scholars have been able to determine four predominant periods: the hunter (6000 to 4000 B.C.), the Herder (4000 to 1500 B.C.), the Horse (1500 to 600 B.C.), and the Camel (from about 600 B.C.). From this, they elaborated on the life of the different people and ani­mals who successively inhabited the Sahara at a time when its climate was not as cruel as it is today.

Sometimes, new drawings were made over old ones by artists from different periods. In one place, Henri Lhote, the French archaeologist, who discovered the murals, found a superimposition of as many as 16 different scenes. Varying shades of red oxide, ocher, and white pigment were used, and often, lines were carved into the rock for greater permanence. Walking with my camera through the Stone Age of the Sahara, I feel like an anachronistic element.

(Cont'd on Page 4, Col. 1)

SWWGstudy recommends Bank action

The Status of Women Working Group (SWWG) of the Staff Associa­tion, in a report to the Association, has determined that despite "manage­ment's aW3ll'eness of the problem of the under-utilization of women's skills in the Bank, little change in women's status has taken place over the past 20 months."

The report was delivered to the Staff Association in May, and the outgoing Chairman, James S. Friedlander, has written to the new delegates and alter­nates of the Association that "it is now the appropriate time for the Staff Association to propose positive action to management to improve the status of women in the Bank. "

The report notes that in the past 20 months, the percentage of women staff at the J-Q levels has remained at 8.3 ; that the percentage of women in the Regions and Projects Depart­ments has decreased from 3.6 to 3.3; that women in the I-Q levels are still concentrated at the lower levels of this group; that, at most levels, women's average salaries are lower, while their average ages and lengths of service are higher ; that women at the I level still outnumber the total number of women at the I-Q levels; and that the percentage of women in the F and I categories has increased from 59.8 to 61.7.

The SWWG study, headed by Syl­via R. Browne, recommended that the management of the Bank "take the following steps to begin to remedy the conditions and attitudes" revealed in their report:

• Create a "skills bank" and, through it, systematically attempt to identify women for promotion and more res­ponsible positions.

• Re-evaluate the structure of cleri­cal/secretarial jobs and promotion practices, and overall management at­titudes toward staff at these levels.

(Cont'd on Page 4, Col. 4)

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Page 2 Bank Notes July-August 1975 J1J

Staff Association 1975/76 Series: Part I

Staff Association seeks wide · r support for working groups

By Norman McMillan Who can join these working groups? Anybody can. You do not have to be"This problem is just too difficult a delegate or an alternate-but dele­to decide now. Let's appoint a com­gates and alternates are being asked to mittee to look into it, and in the mean­join at least one group. The chief re­time we can forget all about it." This, quirement is a willingness to devotemany people believe, is the main reas­some time and effort to examining aon committees-or presidential com­particular issue in depth, and thereby missions, task forces, working groups, help one's colleagues throughout thecall them what you will-are set up. Bank Group. Most of the working

The reasoning behind the Staff As­ groups meet at lunchtime, usually once sociation's 10 working groups is differ­ a week or once a fortnight; these ent, however. The range of benefits. "brownbag" meetings can be a lotissues, and problems to be covered is more rewarding than waiting in line atjust too large for the 15-member Exec­ the cafeteria! utive Committee to handle unaided. (For comparison, the Personnel De­ There is one exception to the "open

The new Executive Committee of the Staft Association in its first meeting. Shown partment has a total staff of close to to all" principle, and that is the Com­here (left to right, seated) are: Gabriel Banfi. (Treasurer), Hendrik van der 140). So there is need for some kind of pensation Advisory Committee (COM­Heijden (Second Vice Chainnan), A. Amir AI-Khafaji (Chairman), Karin I. to with PAC). Because this committee receives filter mechanism deal the Nordlander (First Vice Cbainnan), E. Nonnan McMiUan (Secretary), Franco confidential information from manage­nitty-gritty aspects of any problem, the Ruberl, Janet M. Damron, and Carmen Venturini. Standing are (left to right): Annual Personnel Review procedures, ment, its members are appointed by Daniel Bonosky, Gottfried Ablasser, MadeHne C. DeVan, and P. S. Dharam or the fine print of the Staff Retire­ the Executive Committee from among Dhillon. Madeleine Wyss (on the far right) continues to be Secretary of the Staff ment Plan. those staff members who apply with the Association. Not pictured here, but members of the Executive Committee, are: right mix of qualifications. This year, The working groups also serve an­Nabil C. Faias, Jeffrey A. Katz, and John Simmons. the task of COMPAC will be expandedother purpose, which is at least as im­

to include Staff Benefits, as it has been portant, if not more so. They provide Don't Cry 'Help' "They set up their booth showing found that these can better be viewed a means for direct staff input on a large

the Department's seal and the legend as part of the overall compensationvariety of issues. To use a current saying 'Operation Awareness' in office package.jargonistic phrase, they represent the Anti-crime buildings, at street comers, or in shop­ "grass roots" of the Staff Association. So, if you want to volunteer forping centers, and tell the people about The Delegate Assembly also has a one of the working groups-Annualcrime prevention and answer ques­tips offered similar function, but its main role is Performance Review, Appeals Proce­tions. A lock display sits on the booth to determine general policy guidelines; dures, Career Development, Counsel­table, sharing the space with sheetsWe sent our man down to the E moreover, it operates at one remove ling Facilities, Health and Life Insur­of paper for distribution. A tapedbuilding lobby on May 29. This is from its constituents. ance, Staff Association Structures and message, played over a speaker, ex­his report. Procedures, Staff Retirement Plan,plains the work of Operation A ware­Changes Made Status of Women, Visa Issues, or ness. Tomorrow they go to Spring

"Just after a late lunch in the E To enable these "expert" and "grass Working Conditions and Services-or Valley Shopping Center. No, they will if you have any questions about the building cafeteria, I walked down the roots" functions to be performed more not set up their booth in the Fund work programs, please contact the co­stairs to the two police persons, a effectively, the 1975/76 Executivebuilding. I guess the people across the a ordinators listed in the Staff Associa­man and a woman. 'rhey were folding Committee has decided to makestreet have nothing for burglars except tion Newsletter No. 11/75 of June 2, the little blue booth and putting their number of changes in the way in which SDR's. 1975, or phone Madeleine Wyss (ex­giveaway papers in the cartons. I the working groups operate. To en­

"Burglars have 'been dissuaded from tension 4625) in the Staff Association approached the earnest-looking young sure proper coordination between the entering homes which display, on doors office (C-415). officer, 5 feet 7 inches, 150 pounds broad view that the Executive Com­and windows, a sticker issued by the or more (but not less), eyes brown, or mittee must take and the necessarily

perhaps blue, a trifle stocky. Department. The sticker shows a narrower focus of each individual "He said he and his companion, a badge with a picture of the Capitol and working group, two members of the Mr. McMillan is Secretary of the

a label which says 'Operation Identifi­ Executive Committee of the Staff As­woman in her twenties, had been at Executive Committee have been as­cation.' A warning also appears on the sociation.the Bank for three days. At the A, D signed to each working group as co­

and now at the E bUilding. They had sticker. It says, 'This property pro­ ordinators. It will be the task of these given 4,500 pieces of crime-prevention tected by Ope,ration Identification, coordinators to relay priorities to the

Metropolitan Police Department. Allliterature to 1,600 Bank people. They working groups and report back regu­items of value on these premises have had been invited by Mr. Ross of the larly to the Executive Committee. been marked for identification to aid Bank's Security Office. His name was To illustrate the need for such co­the police in the prosecution of crim­T. C. Briguglio. He had served eight ordination, the various subcommittees inals.'years in the Metropolitan Police De­ studying education benefits, depen­

"The way to get the sticker is to fill Fpartment, mostly on scout car duty. dency allowances, and leave policiesin a business reply card telling theHe was selected because of his knowl­ last year had no difficulty in coming police, 'Yes, I want to join the defen­edge of crime amassed during the years up with suggestions that would have sive team. Please come on (date to be Bank Notes is published by and

he spent on that duty. His companion added hugely to the total benefits Ch filled) and time (also to be filled).' for the staff of the WorId Bank Prewas Crystal Scott, with one year's package. Some members who had put

"The Department will send an offi­ Group ten times yearly in the De­service. a lot of work into preparing these sug­ hu cer who will look at the doors and partment of Information and Public a]"They belonged to the Community gestions were understandably disap­windows, and advise you if you need Affairs. Inquiries should be ad­ BaRelations Division's Operation Aware­pointed when their favorite ideas had locks that will be more secure, or bars ness, launched by the Department on to be dropped later to allow concen­ dressed to the Editor, Room E-836. bo for the windows. He will arrange toFebruary 1, 1975. Theirs was the first tration on the cost of living adjustment. Contributions from staff members Ai engrave your social security number on unit to be set up and operated in the It is hoped such "communication" are welcomed. Deadline for letters tra your TV, stereo, mixer, vacuum, trom­Second District (Northwest area). He problems will be avoided in the future. and articles (in which brevity is the in bone, or anythin~ else of value which had been with it since mid-March. The Each working group will also have soul of publish ability ) is the 13th of to can be stolen and removed easily. Heunit was so successful that two more its own Chairman to conduct meetings, each month. The editor reserves the tio will help you prepare a list of thehave been formed to work in the Fifth prepare reports, etc. The terms of ref­ right, for reasons of space or clarity,property with descriptions which canDistrict (Northeast area) and in the erence or work program of each group to edit all copy without notifying in be used when required to identify the First District (Capitol area). Burglary will be drafted by the working group Fr.advance the author. property if it is stolen and recovered. has dropped by 70 percent in homes itself and cleared with the Executive LeHe will also provide you with stickers. Editor ........................ Peter Muncie

and 40 percent to 60 percent in office Committee to avoid duplication of ef­ S.Staff Photographer ...... Ed Huffmanbuildings. (Cont'd on Page 4, Col. 4) fort or gaps in coverage. inE

July-Aug.

'5 July-August 1915 Bank Notes Page 3

Bank Calendar Bowling (Duckpin) League-Award Night for the 1974/75 season was

honored by the presence of Mr. John Adler as prize-giver to these out­~s? standing bowlers: ~e SUPERSTARS came out on top; CONTINENTALS taking second place; ~e­ and the SWINGERS in third place. Last place trophy was given to the Ito NOMADS, but we spared them the donkey's bottom. re- Individual Highs: ~te

Averaire-Placida Espina and Bob Warrenfeltz Set-Joan Brown and Rich ard Townsend Game-Carol Lewis and Diego Gaviriaby

a Stl'lkes-Kawser Bailey and Walter Jones

[he Spares-Sandra Kundu and Arabinda Kundu (one of our husband and wife teams) F lat-Pauline Newton and Tony Espina

'ng Special individual trophies were awarded to Mr. Thomas Norman (our Ice .octogenarian) for the best bowler, and to Maria "right on" DePeralta and ,~se J ames Lewis for the most improved bowlers. lot Members of the Bowling League would like to extend their thanks to Mr.at Adler for helping to make the Night the success it was, and we look forward

to seeing him bowling with us again next season. We would also like to •en extend our thanks to the caterers for the excellent buffet provided . ttl­ September 10 will find the League returning to Westwood Bowl America M­ in Maryland for another season of fun and games. See you then! ves MMcD ge­iby WIV~pace does not permit us to list the names of all who con­ng tributed to the success of the International Festival of National Costumes he which was presented at the &amada Inn on June 4. We are greatly indebted tar, to those many wives and friends who were models and to those who assisted led in obtaining costumes. We wish to acknowledge the Chairmen who spent ,:en long hours in their efforts to contact wives from various countries and who red prepared that part of the parade of National Costumes which representsIon their areas. In all, 240 wives and friends took part in, and witnessed the

performance. The beauty and diversity of the costumes were enhanced by appropn.ate accompaniments-a guitar, a piano and, briefly, the skid of bagpipes. A Spanish dancer and songs from many countries met with en­thusiastic applause. A big thank you to everyone concerned.

Tuesday, July I-Youth Committee-Squash-two hours for 10 weeks Tuesday or Thursday, .in Merrifield, Virginia, $15 per person. Call Mrs. Kendall, Tel: 654-5221.

Tuesday, July l-"Stitch-In"-Sarah Carmichael, hostess, 5105 Chevy Chase Parkway, N.W., Washington, D.C., Tel: 966-2953.

Tuesday, July 8-"Stitch-In"-Sarah Carmichael, hostess, 5105 Chevy Chase Parkway, N.W., Washington, D.C., Tel: 966-2953.

Saturday, July 19-Discotheque-14-year oIds and over, 7.30 P.M. to 11.30 P.M., Foyer, 2nd floor, E Building, 701 19th Street, N.W. Ch.arge: $2.00 each, payable to WIVES, F-208. Closing date, july 17.

Sunday, August 10-Tour and Dig in Miocene fossil area-rain or shine. For further information call Mrs. Kendall, Tel: 654-5221.

Tuesday, August 19-"Stitch-In"-Sarah Carmichael, hostess, 5105 Chevy Chase Parkway, N.W., Washington, D.C., Tel: 966-2953. Ithe

Tuesday, August 26-"Stitch-In"-Sarah Carmichael, hostess, 5105I'ts-Chevy Chase Parkway, N.W., Washington, D.C., Tel: 966-2953.

Women's Studies Bookshelf-The bookshelf, formerly in Room E-736, .is being relocated. Its new location will be announced in this column. ,.

Potpourri-People and Places ld ~k e­~c d­6. rs rs Ie of Ie y, in

Ie m

Paula Melville, daughter of Lydia A. Chaconas (Transportation and Urban Projects) is featured, along with her husband Mike, in a story appearing in a recent issue of the Lowry (Air Force Base) Airman. Mr. and Mrs. Melville both enlisted as man and wife with the Air Force. Both now attend basic training at Lackland Air Force Base in Texas, and they have been assigned to Nellis Air Force Base after gradua­tion.

~

Retirers in June: Frances Moles, Frances Haughey and Helen A. Mc­Leod. In July: J. C. Gerring, Melvin S. Lord, Barbara Pierce, and Kather­ine Dowd.

~

Better late than never-In mid­April, Peter W. Whitford (East Asia Projects) wrote us asking that his mar­riage to Margaret Dorris Grafuis be noted in the next issue of Bank Notes. Done, Peter.

~

We are here to state publicly that, as far as we know, there are no ash­trays among the Ming palaces and tombs. If you recall, last month, we ran A. M. Durrani's poem, History in Retrospect, which summed up his travel article of the month before.

Putting words in Mr. Durrani's pen, we had him write, "Ashtray among palaces and tombs of Ming," etc. It

Soccer Club--Only two games were played this past month, resulting in one win and one draw.

The British Embassy, admittedly not fielding its best team and therefore losing a lot of its attacking ability, went down 5-4 to our side. What could have been an easy win for our team resulted in quite a tightly matched game. Roy Pepper scored two of the goals, and Grant Sinclair worked well in defense.

In a game with few scoring chances, our team drew 2-2 with the Russian Embassy. A well-taken goal by Eugene McCarthy, headed from a corner kick, put our side one up, only to have the Russians equalize the score in the final minutes of the first half. For 20 minutes after half time, the Bank side achieved some dominance, during which Ken Jones scored our second goal, However, confusion in the last 20 minutes enabled the Russians to again equalize the score.

A win is hoped for in the next game against Langley, always a hard team to beat. Success in the game will enable our team to go forward to the cham­pionship match the following week.

TGIF-Singles Club--The following activities have been scheduled for the month of July:

Saturday, July 12-Hike to Roosevelt Island Saturday, July 19-Matinee at Wolf Trap Friday, July 25--Cheese and Wine Party

Tennis Club--The Club held its first tournament of the season, a mixed­doubles Round Robin Tournament, on May 17 and 18. Thirty-nine of the Club's 86 members participated. Winners were Iris Lipkowitz and Stephen Lortie, with average games won of 68 percent and 84 percent respectively. The Club hopes to hold a handicap tournament in mid-summer, with a men's and women's event. In the meantime, regular play continues with considerable enthusiasm.

1.M.

Staff Relations Library-The following books have been added to the Staff Relations Library:

Strictly Speakinl(-Edward Newman Samuel Johnson-John Wain A Month of Sunday_ John Updike Centennial-James A. Michener The Gareoyle ConspirllC!Y-Marvin H. Albert The Minus Man-Richard Maxwell Journey-Robert and Suzanne Massie Jimmy the Kid-Donald Westlake The Physician_Benry Denker Dark Nantucket Noon-Jane Lan~n

The Staff Relations Library is located in Room D-1161, and is open from 9 A.M. to 5.30 P.M. Rental charges are fiv.e cents a day, including weekends.

Bridge Club--The Club is still meeting every other Tuesday in the Fund, and the next meeting will be held on July 8. Patrick De Fontenay is the new secretary of the Club. Anyone wishing to play should contact him, extension 6028. We are in the middle of our Summer Cup Competition which will be running into the Fall.

should have been, of course, "Astray among palaces" etc. Our apologies.

~

We didn't see the advertisement in the Real Estate section of the Wash­ington Post in which a photograph of Vasilis Panootsopoulos (Economic Analysis and Projections) appeared, along with the following copy: "Meet Vasilis Panoutsopoulos, 30-year-old bachelor. Research economist for the World Bank. Not the sort of man to take any purchase lightly. Vasili bought at Barcroft Hills for one reason: Value."

As we say, we didn't see it, but lean Baneth did, and it inspired him to write to us:

"When I saw this advertisement for the second time in the Washington Post last week, I suddenly realized what

tremendous a venues to fame and wealth it opened for us. Surely no need to limit us to 'the condominium for .real people.' Why not:

"'When your business is liquidity analysis, you don't drink just any scotch. Meet Ian Ousquebagh, mar­ried, 39-years-old, liquidity analyst for the World Bank. He drinks Professor's Scotch.' "

" 'When you are an executive, you don't wear just any stockings. Meet Evelyn Basbesoie, 28-years-old, deputy director of Pedestrian Projects for the World Bank. She wears only Supreme Silk Stockings.' "

"'When your business is nutrition, you don't eat just any cereal. Meet .l J ochen Essengut, a widower with five

(Cont'd on Page 4, Col. 3)

Page 4 Bank Notes

Jubileers

Raymond M. Frost 20 Years--July 1975

with the Tauregs are unforgettable, the experience unique. But quoting a fa­mous general, with all due respect: "I shall return!" before Progress has ir­remediably destroyed some of the last free men on earth and a way of life one can not begin to imagine.

People ••• Cont'd children, nutrition specialist for the World Bank. He eats only Possets.'"

"And even-why be shy-should we not be able to find a way to use the prestige of our population control specialists?"

~

Renee Melouson has brought to our attention a story in the Post which states that "housing and hospitality are needed for 30 French students between the ages of 16 and 23 who will arrive in Washington on July 31.

"Room and board for about 3th weeks will be needed. InterStudy, the sponsoring agency, is a non-profit in­ternational education institution which arr~nges low-cost study tours to the United States for European and Asian students. If you can help, call Elaine Cassel, local representative of Inter­Study at 549-6436."

Mrs. Melouson writes, "Surely, there are many at the Bank who could help them."

~

A photograph of a painting by Dolores I. Pope (East Africa Projects) has appeared in the May 22 issue of the Delaware Coast Press. The paint­ing was one of a number which were exhibited at the Corkran Gallery of the Rehoboth Art League in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. The exhibitors, in­cluding Mrs. Pope, were all members of the American Art League of Wash­ington, D.C. Mrs. Pope's photographed painting took an "honorable mention" at the exhibit which closed on June 15.

~

We hear from Joan Chernock, who left the Bank on June 30, that she recently obtained her Brown Belt in karate, and is a co-teacher in J a Shin Do with Dana Densmore, a Black Belt in J a Shin Do, a martial art for women. The school where they teach is located at Western Presbyterian Church at the comer of 19th and H Streets. Classes are held weekdays at 6:30 P.M. For more information, phone Miss Cher­nock at 234-4047.

July-August 1975

Harold R. You.ng 20 Years-July 1975

Crime ••• Cont'd

"The officer put a sheaf of papers in my hand. I said, 'I live in Colum­bia, Maryland.' He said, 'Crime is everywhere.' I took the papers and, when I got home, read them.

"This is what I learned. "Crime is everywhere--at home, at

work. "Crime uses two modes of travel­

walking, driving. "Crime likes women, especially

women hitchhikers. When attacked, they are told to scream. They must scream 'fire,' not 'help' or 'rape.'

"Crime does not like Operation Identification stickers, owner identifi­able property, crowds, noise and light.

"That reminds me. I must write a memorandum to Mr. Twining to up the wattage in that poky little hole off the D building lobby. I could lose my son's birthday cake, while coming out of Mr. White's bakeshop, to a hungry robber."

SWWG ••• Cont'd • Examine the salary history of

women in the Bank and correct "prov­en inequities" as soon as possible.

• Evaluate the reasons for the low number of women in the Young Pro­fessionals Program, and make a greater effort to recruit more women into this program.

• Make an "affirmative" effort to recruit women into higher levels in the Bank.

• Continue with the recently insti­tuted workshops on work-related issues between men and women in the Bank.

Miss Browne said that the Working Group was not asking the Bank to set a "percentage goal" for the recruit­ment of women at higher levels. "What is needed is 'a commitment by the Bank," she added. "If there's no com­mitment, nothing will happen."

The women of Iherir waiting for their men to return

Frescoes ••• Cont'd Medouin, the only Tuareg who vol­

unteered to accompany us in this lunar landscape, watches us with curiosity. He has already seen the paintings many times, and when I ask him who drew them, he answers· with no hesi­tation, "the Genies" (who haunt the plateau).

A person could spend a lifetime seeking and marvelling at the master­pieces hidden among the tortured cliffs and rocks of the Tassi! n' Ajjer, but after two days, we must continue on to Therir. Time is important, and the Tuaregs are impatient to get home.

Some time before arriving at the oasis, we bivouac at a small campsite where the family and relatives of one of our guides temporarily live. Al­though they never openly demonstrate any feelings of affection, Tuaregs have strong family ties. They are very fond of children and show a great deal of respect to women and to their elders.

(I remember one evening when we were all sitting around the fire, ready for a tindi (concert). The Tauregs ab­solutely refused to sing or dance so long as ~fedouin, the eldest, was among them. It would have been an offense to his dignity. Only after Medouin had retired, did they relax and give us an example of their vocal capabilities!)

Cutting up a Goat

So, tonight will be an occasion to celebrate the reunion. In the late after­noon, preparations for the feast begin. From afar, I observe the women, squat­ting on the ground, next to their tent, making the couscous. A long black shawl, which they often pull back on their face, protects their privacy from the intruders' eyes. Some young chil­dren, excited by the arrival of the trav­ellers, stay with the men to listen to fabulous stories of camel caravans and genies.

Away from the camp activities, on a rock promontory, Ahmad and Mo­hammad are busy cutting up a goat which has been sacrificed for the oc­casion. Rivulets of blood flow from the open arteries, staining the rock underneath. In silence, the two men cut the meat with precision and effi­ciency, and place the pieces next to the head, whose glassy eyes stare into space. The skin has been put aside. Later on, it will be cleaned, dried, and tanned, and used to carry water.

Outrageously, the sun darts its last rays in the bloody sky before disap­pearing beneath the horizon.

Photo by Carole Devillers

I know the celebration is about to begin when I see the Blue Men put on their best robes. They don't change clothes; they just wear new ones over the old. The women bring two big bowls, one filled with couscous, the other with cooked goat meat. We all drink from the common cup and eat from the common bowl as is the Taureg custom. We dig in the couscous with our spoons, and Ali, cutting pieces of meat, drops them into the bowl as we eat. I don't know when Ali washed his hands last, but then, it had been some time since I had washed my own ... except with sand!

After the meal, we go and join the Taureg women who are ready to give a tindi. The drums start beating. At first slow, the rhythm gradually in­creases. Young girls begin to sing. Their voices are strong and loud. They seem to challenge the night and its terrifying genies. Drums beating . . . hands clapping . . . voices singing.

As the tempo grows stronger and stronger, ghostly apparitions suddenly loom out of the darkness. Attired in their long white clqaks and riding their camels, the Blue Men make a masterly entrance in our circle. Around and around they go, showing off to arouse their women's interest, parading proud­ly and haughtily by the light of the fire. It is an impressive sight indeed. In a chivalrous tournament such as this, the nobility that so characterizes the Tuaregs escapes from its mysterious aura and shines in all its splendor. Long after it has all ended, the drums are still beating rhythmically in my head.

A day later, we reach Iherir, where we are greeted by the oasis dwellers. The oasis, surrounded by palm trees, consists of a dozen huts made of stones and topped with a straw roof. Occa­sionally, a goat will climb on top to eat the straw-when a camel has not already done so! The chief invites us to stay in his "guest house", the largest hut of all. During the next two days, I follow the nomads through their every­day chores, which include the training of a young camel which has to have his nostril pierced so that a ring might fit through it, and the extraction of a pain­ful molar from Ali's mouth by the chief, using pincers.

One morning, much too soon, it is time to leave our new friends; we load the truck that has come from Djanet, for the all-day ride back to Djanet.

The moments I spent in the Sahara