delicious 201402
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Delicious 201402TRANSCRIPT
delicious.FEBRUARY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIA‘S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE
VALLI LITTLE Beach holiday menu
KATIE QUINN DAVIES Valentine‘s Day
JILL DUPLEIX Luscious frozen yoghurt
Barbecued pizzas:
prosciutto with tomato and
mozzarella; chilli prawn
with zucchini and pesto.
ON
THE
TAKE IT OUTSIDEWITH
FUSS�FREEDINNERS
AND COOL DESSERTS
photographyjeremysim
ons
Whether you’re still enjoying a break or are back at work, this issue
is all about ways to keep that holiday feeling going right through
summer. Barbecues and picnics are high on the agenda, of course
– try Valli’s beach-inspired seafood menu (p 48) or chef-turned-
butcher Colin Holt’s grill favourites (p 90). You could also opt for
our clever cover idea – chargrilled pizza bases on the barbecue, then
have everyone load them up with their favourite toppings. Add
some cool, fruity desserts, such as ice cream sandwiches or tropical
popsicles (Wicked, p 74), and you’re all set. You don’t have to wait
for a weekend event, though. Take even a simple Daily Special
(p 58) pasta or salad outdoors on a Tuesday night and feel the
workday stress melt away, as you keep that holiday mood going.
Also this month, we take a cook’s tour of Lake Como, Italy, and
celebrate Lunar New Year with some of Sydney and Melbourne’s
top Asian chefs, who share their favourite dining spots.
Plus, you’re invited to join us in Perth and Noosa as we
showcase each state’s best at special delicious. Produce Awards
dinners. Hope to see you there.
Danielle Oppermann, Editor
This issue…
delicious. 5
editor’s letter.
10482D
el
Luigi Bormioli’sCanaletto,
the dazzling glass.
STILL
20
00
WASHES
AFTER*
delicious. 7
Cover stories
48 Valli Little’s beach
holiday menu
Sunset on the beach
is complete with a fresh
catch of seafood and Valli’s
simple barbecue menu.
58 Fuss-free dinners
Our daily specials have
every night of the week
covered, from chicken
salad to pork tacos.
66 Katie Quinn Davies’
Valentine’s Day menu
Set the scene with Katie’s
elegant 3-course menu.
74 Cool desserts
Gorgeous Sydney blog
The Food Dept. create
wicked tropical desserts,
including macadamia
biscuit ice cream
sandwiches and
homemade ice pops, so
you can keep your cool.
116 Jill Dupleix’s luscious
frozen yoghurt
Jill’s shares four light
and easy gluten-free
desserts for warm weather,
including a yoghurt and
berry gelato terrine.
Recipe Valli Little Styling Vivien Walsh
Photography Alan Benson
74
Our COver
barbecued pizzasServes 4
If you’re entertaining, make these pizza bases
and let guests assemble their own toppings.
21/4 cups (360g) bread & pizza flour
or 21/2 cups (375g) plain flour1/4 cup (50g) fine semolina
1 tbs dried instant yeast1/2 tsp caster sugar
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush
Prosciutto with tomato and mozzarella
Good-quality tomato pasta sauce,
torn buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripened
cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced prosciutto,
black olives and rocket leaves
Chilli prawn with zucchini and pesto
Chargrilled zucchini slices, chilli-marinated
prawns, basil pesto and basil leaves
Combine flour, semolina, yeast, sugar, oil and
1 tsp salt in an electric mixer fitted with a
dough hook. Add 1 cup (250ml) warm water,
then knead for 8-9 minutes until smooth.
(Alternatively knead on a floured surface for
10 minutes or until smooth.) Place in an oiled
bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place for
3 hours or until doubled in size.
Knock back dough, then separate into four
rounds. Place on an oiled baking tray, cover
with a tea towel and rest for 30 minutes.
Preheat barbecue or chargrill pan to high.
Roll out dough on a floured surface to a
5mm-thick oval. Brush both sides generously
with oil (to prevent it from sticking to the
grill). Chargrill for 2-3 minutes each side
until charred. Add toppings, then serve.
contents.
8 delicious.
82
58Eat33 Hotspots
Dishes from Wood Fire Grill
in Noosa, Rushcutters in
Sydney and Melbourne’s
Fatto Bar & Cantina.
39 Easy does it
Easy summer tarts make
the ideal picnic food.
82 Hot blogs
Lighten up your cooking
with our round-up of the
best vegetarian and
wholefood blogs.
90 Guest chef
Colin Holt of Hudson Meats
shares his tips and recipes
for the ultimate barbecue.
Escape124 Global flavours
Valli travels to Lake Como
for an Italian cooking class
with Sydney-based chefs
Alessandro Pavoni
and Giovanni Pilu.
136 Postcard
Peter Gilmore escapes to
Fiji’s luxe Laucala Island.
138 24 hours in Lyon
Take a tour of France’s
gastronomic capital, Lyon.
142 Locavore: Lunar New Year
Top Aussie-Asian chefs share
their must-eat spots in
Sydney and Melbourne.
Regulars5 Editor’s letter
10 Menus
13 Inbox
15 Out & about
Join us for a special dinner
at Sydney’s Ormeggio at The
Spit, plus photos from our
reader dinner at Rushcutters.
124
66
99 Jamie Oliver exclusive section
100 Fun in the oven
Jamie shows woodfired ovens can turn out more
than just pizza with his alfresco cooking ideas,
including a summer fruit crumble.
108 In the mix
Jamie’s light, fresh Asian-inspired salads are
just the thing for warm evenings at home.
18 Produce Awards 2014
Join us for two special
dinners in Queensland
and Western Australia.
23 Insider
The latest food trends,
products, books and
restaurant news.
28 What to drink when.
Andrea Frost embraces the
outdoors with summer wines.
42 S reasons to…
Matt Preston has so many
reasons to get grilling.
44 Subscribe to delicious.
Receive a Pyrex gift set.
152 Recipe index
154 Secret address book
Chef Rene Redzepi from
Denmark’s Noma shares
his favourite food spots.
The Test Kitchen uses meat
supplied by Hudson Meats;
hudsonmeats.com.au.
Enjoy Hardys responsibly.
“Every wine should tell a story, and this
Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc is no exception.
Its tale is one of perfect unity between region
and variety, enriched by the distinctive elements
of the vintage. Using gentle winemaking
techniques, the story that’s told is honest -
a pure expression of Australian Sauvignon Blanc.”
WILLIAM HARDY {5th Generation}
www.hardyswines.com
THE PUREST EXPRESSION
of AUSTRALIAN SAUVIGNON BLANC
10 delicious.
Mix and match recipes from this issue to create three fresh summer feasts, from a bright andhealthy dinner, to a smoky barbecue lunch and an Asian spread heady with herbs and spice.
hot summer nightsAsparagus, grape
& haloumi salad
with vinaigrette
+
Peach & pork tacos
+
Yoghurt & berry
gelato terrine
barbecue lunchKing prawns
with chimichurri
+
Barbecued lamb racks
+
Chocolate s’mores
asian feastVietnamese chicken salad
(goi ga)
+
Barramundi in banana leaf
with coconut rice
+
Fruit skewers with
gingersnap crumbs and
coconut cream
95 57
54110 76
6218 121
33
issn
1448-4455
PrintedbyHannanprint,8Priddle
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delicious.EDITOR
Danielle [email protected]
FOOD DIRECTOR
Valli [email protected]
EDITORIAL
Deputy Editor Shannon Harley [email protected] Subeditor/Online Editor Lara Zilibowitz [email protected]
Junior Subeditor Heidi Finnane [email protected] Coordinator Amy Pagett [email protected]
Editorial Enquiries (02) 8062 2791, [email protected]
ART
Art Director Shannon Keogh [email protected] Designer Kate Skinner [email protected]
FOOD
Assistant Food Editor Warren Mendes [email protected] Assistant Sarah Murphy [email protected]
Food Enquiries [email protected]
Senior Editor Matt PrestonContributors Jill Dupleix, Andrea Frost, Bill Granger,
Jamie Oliver, David Prior, Katie Quinn Davies, Stephanie Westcott
National Advertising Director Prue CoxNSW Sales Director Paul Blackburn (02) 8062 2563
NSW Group Sales Directors Nicole Bence (02) 8062 2670,Sam Tomlinson (02) 8062 2314, Belinda Miller (02) 8062 2663
Group Sales Partnerships David Rogers (02) 8062 2066VIC Sales Director Kim Carollo (03) 9292 3204
VIC Group Sales Directors Sally Paterson (03) 9292 3217,Lisa Mikkelsen (03) 9292 3206, Astrid White (03) 9292 3222
QLD Sales Director Rose Wegner (07) 3666 6903SA Advertising Representative Maree Marasco (03) 9292 2749
WA Advertising Representative Bronwyn Robinson (08) 9326 9806Classifieds Advertising Rebecca White 1300 139 305
Brand Solutions Director Sam SmithGroup Brand Solutions Manager Jane Purves (02) 8062 2946
Brand Solutions Manager Kate Corbett (02) 8062 2012Brand Solutions Coordinator Caitlin Griffith-Pecset (02) 8062 2917
Advertising Creative Director Richard McAuliffeAdvertising Creative Manager Zoe Tack
Senior Art Director, Creative Services Lisa KlausProduction Director Mark Moes [email protected]
Production Manager Neridah Burke [email protected] Production Manager Katie Nagy (02) 8062 2170;
Publisher ABC Magazines Liz White [email protected] Editor ABC Magazines Marija Beram [email protected]
Commercial Manager, Food Laura Lane [email protected] Manager Anthony Whittle [email protected]
Brand Manager Renee Gangemi [email protected] Assistant Lucy Johnston [email protected]
Group Circulation Manager, Food Sheri Mohamed [email protected]
Chief Executive Officer Nicole SheffieldGroup Publisher, Food Fiona Nilsson
General Manager, Commercial Development Marcus WilliamsCommercial Director Miffy Coady
Director of Communications Sharyn WhittenMarketing Director Diana Kay
General Manager, Retail and Circulation Brett WillisSubscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; [email protected]
Enquiries: Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015, tel: (02) 8062 2791, email: [email protected]. Melbourne Office, HWT Tower,Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000. delicious. is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906), 2 Holt St,
Surry Hills, NSW 2010, tel: (02) 9288 3000. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178).Copyright 2013 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. “ABC” and the “Wave” device trademark are used under licence from the
Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Colour separations News PreMedia. Distributed by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd,tel: 1300 650 666. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission of the publisher.
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Letter of the month
Charged with making my wife Kate’s birthday cake, our sons
Charlie, 2, Alex, 4, and I proceeded with an enormous amount
of trepidation to her collection of delicious. magazines to seek
out the culinary master that would walk us through the process.
The winner was Katie Quinn Davies and her gorgeous basil and
lemon olive oil cake with strawberries in syrup
(November 2013, p 116). The cake turned
out perfectly. Thank you Katie and
delicious. for producing amazing recipes.
Justin Fay, Lake Wendouree, Vic
ed’s note: Congratulations,
Justin! You’ve won a Zyliss
Knife Block Set, Carving
Set and Smart Touch Salad
Spinner, valued at $300.
Visit: zyliss.com.
delicious.reservestherightto
editreaderletters.
memory Lane
back many wonderful memories of my time there studying Italian.
I couldn’t believe that Gelateria Pomposa was featured – the
description of mascarpone gelato topped with warm caramelised
figs transported me straight back to the cobblestone streets.
Millicent Golding, Biggera Waters, Qld
fired up
I am the first to admit that while cooking is not my thing, I like
to think of myself as a bit of a barbecue king. After reading Jamie
Oliver’s Griller Tactics (November 13, p 84), I realised that the time
had come to change up my usual sausage, onion and tomato sauce
repertoire and challenge my tastes with new sensations – time to fire
up the barbie. Kevin Nathaniel, Riverview, NSW
hidden gems
Thank you so much for showcasing Perth in November’s Locavore
(p 143). All too often I think there isn’t anything exciting happening
in the food scene in Perth, but it seems I need to get out more and
explore the uncovered treasures! Leesa Plester, Melville, WA
confident cook
My first reaction upon receiving an annual subscription to delicious.
magazine for my birthday was one of nervousness, as I believed it
would be too sophisticated for my cooking skills. What a revelation!
I have gained more confidence and am now willing to cook more of
the recipes featured, it’s been a great success, thank you delicious.
Shirley-Anne Lukeman, Bonnet Bay, NSW
Follow us:
@deliciousAU @deliciousmagazine
facebook.com/deliciousmagazine
Send your emails to [email protected] orwrite to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
HOW DO YOU SPOTAUTHENTIC ITALIAN PASTA?
FROM ITALY TO YOUR TABLE WITH NOTHING LOST IN TRANSLATION
NUMBER 1 IN ITALYbarilla.net.au facebook.com/casabarilla
delicious. 15
Events • Photo galleries
This month, we followed two of our
favourite Australian-Italian chefs,
Giovanni Pilu of Pilu at Freshwater and
Alessandro Pavoni from Ormeggio at
The Spit, on their adventure in Lake
Como, Italy as they cooked up regional
specialities (see our story, p 124). Join
us as we celebrate the chefs’ return
home with an exclusive delicious. reader
dinner at the recently revamped
two-hatted Ormeggio at The Spit.
Giovanni and Alessandro will create
a five-course feast that spans Italian
cuisine from north to south, including
canapes on arrival, and each course
will be matched with fine Italian wines.
with Giovanni & Alessandro at Ormeggio
Where: Ormeggio at The Spit,
d’Albora Marinas The
Spit, Mosman, NSW
When: 7pm, Wed, February 19
Price: $120 for 5 courses
matched with fine
Italian wines
Bookings: Taken from 10am,
Monday, January 20,
tel: (02) 9969 4088
In association with
dinnedelicious.
does
Canapes on arrival
*Biodynamic veal vitello tonnato
with toasted pine nuts and capers
*Agnolotti pasta with asparagus,
aged sheep’s milk ricotta, black
olives, nduja and watercress
*Sa cassola (Sardinian seafood and
tomato soup) with fregola
*Carrot, fennel seed and farro
with vinegar caramel
event.
Readers gathered with Lallier Grand Cru
Champagne in hand to launch our latest
book, Love to Cook, at Rushcutters in
Sydney. Food director Valli Little teamed
up with executive chef Martin Boetz and
head chef Kasper Christensen (above left)
to showcase dishes from the book and the
restaurant. The shared feast included baby
beetroot and goat’s curd salad, and
slow-cooked lamb shoulder with chilli mint
sauce, all matched with South Australian
wines fromGrant Burge. For more photos,
visit: delicious.com.au.
delicious.does dinner
to launch Love to Cook
at Rushcutters, Sydney
In association with
PhotograPhyANDYLEW
IS
food
photographyAlAn
Benson
stylin
gViV
iAn
WAlsh
Coast to coastThis month, join us for two special reader dinners in Queensland and Western Australiaas our state judges showcase the very best produce from their state.
NOMINATE
ANDWIN!
asparagus, grape & haloumisalad with vinaigretteserves 4 as a starter
Last year’s From the Dairy finalist Cedar
Street Cheeserie’s haloumi is beautiful
when pared with 2013 From the Earth
finalist LiraH sweet apple vinegar.
ShowcaSe
dinner:
QUeenSLand
Taste the best of
Queensland’s past
Produce Awards winners
and finalists, including
the salad featured here, from state judge
David Rayner of Thomas Corner Eatery.
Where: Thomas Corner Eatery, 1/201
Gympie Tce, Noosaville, Qld
When: 7pm, Thursday, February 27
PrICe: $100 for 4 courses with
Catalina Sounds wines
BookIngs: (07) 5470 2224
ShowcaSe dinner:
weSTern aUSTraLia
Taste the best of WA’s Produce
Awards winners and finalists
with state judge Hadleigh Troy
of Restaurant Amusé as
he joins Kiren Mainwaring
at acclaimed East Perth
restaurant Co-op Dining.
This four-course lunch will
be matched with local wines
fromMyattsfield Vineyards.
Where: Co-op Dining,
2/11 Regal Pl,
East Perth, WA
When: 7pm, Wednesday,
February 5
PrICe: $100 for 4 courses
with matching
Myattsfield
Vineyards wines
BookIngs: (08) 9221 0404
1 tbs apple cider vinegar (we used
LiraH sweet apple vinegar)1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
40g unsalted butter
2 tbs olive oil1/2 cup (25g) panko* or dried breadcrumbs1/4 cup (35g) currants,
soaked in 2 tbs port
20 asparagus spears, trimmed,
blanched
160g (about 36) red grapes, halved
350g haloumi (we used Cedar Street
Cheeserie haloumi), cut into strips
11/2 tbs vino cotto* or balsamic vinegar
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve
To make vinaigrette, whisk vinegar, oil and
mustard in a small bowl. Set aside.
Heat half the butter and oil in a frypan
over medium-high heat. Add breadcrumbs
and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden and
crispy. Remove from heat and set aside.
Drain currants, then combine with
asparagus, grapes and vinaigrette.
Heat remaining butter and oil in a frypan
over medium-high heat. Add haloumi and
cook for 1 minute each side or until golden.
Top salad with breadcrumbs, haloumi,
vino cotto and parsley, then serve.
* Panko are coarse Japanese crumbs
from supermarkets. Vino cotto is a
condiment made from cooked grape
must and is from gourmet food shops.
18 delicious.
produce awards.
for blending, chopping or whipping – it makes light work of all recipes.Visit: kitchenaid.com.au. To nominate a producer and for terms andconditions, visit: deliciousproduceawards.com.au.
Asparagus, grape
& haloumi salad
with vinaigrette
The versatile, simple-to-use KitchenAid®
Deluxe Hand Blender helps you makethe most of top seafood from the delicious.Produce Awards right through summer.
Easy breezy
delicious. KiTcHenAiD® ADverTising feATure
Help is at Hand
Great for small, daily jobs that require
a quick, smooth and uniform result,
the KitchenAid® Deluxe Hand Blender
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FRom tHe sea
Try these simple ideas for making
the most of delicious. Produce Awards
‘From the Sea’ finalists using your
KitchenAid® Deluxe Hand Blender:
* Using the chopper, make a
fragrant Thai curry paste to cook with
Kinkawooka Petit Bouchot Mussels.
* Use the S-Blade attachment to
purée potato and leek soup until
velvety smooth. Chill and serve as
a canapé in small glasses topped
with Yarra Valley Caviar salmon roe.
* Use the whisk attachment to whip
up a batch of creamy herb mayonnaise,
then serve with fresh seafood or grilled
fish such as Cone Bay Barramundi.
* Using the chopper, make a fresh
herb salsa or chunky guacamole to
serve with Mexican style fish tacos
made with Palmers Island Mulloway.
* Serve One Sea Rottnest Island
Scallops on a bed of cauliflower purée
blended with the S-Blade attachment.
For more recipe inspiration,
visit: kitchenaid.com.au.
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Trends • News • Travel • Products • Books
TABLE TALK• Surf Life Saving Australia’s national
headquarters in Rosebery, Sydney, has
been given a lift with the newly opened
bar and restaurant Clubhouse. The
laid-back beach vibe of this all-day
venue works well with a share menu
from Rafael Tonon (ex-Barrio Chino).
Visit: clubhouseaustralia.com.
• Perched on a harbourside peninsula
in Sydney, the Watsons Bay Boutique
Hotel has relaunched with a stylish
new Vt-out complete with large open
kitchen, timber sundeck and cruisy
Beach Club cocktail bar. Plus, there’s
a seafood-dominated summer menu
by executive chef John Pye (ex-Doltone
House). Visit: watsonsbayhotel.com.au.
• Set on the edge of St Kilda beach
and with stunning views of Port Phillip
Bay, Captain Baxter has become a
favourite outdoor spot in Melbourne.
Chef and co-owner Matt Dawson
has created a Texible menu with
drink-friendly snacks for lazy
afternoons, think salt and pink-pepper
squid with Korean hot sauce.
Visit: captainbaxter.com.au.
• With windows overlooking the surf
at Burleigh Heads in Queensland,
The Fish House, owned by restaurateur
Simon Gloftis, is a celebration of
all things from the sea. According
to seafood expert John Susman of
Sydney-based Fishtales: “The Fish
House is what eating seafood in
Australia is all about – unpretentious,
professional and seriously delicious
food based on the very best from the
ocean.” Visit: theVshhouse.com.au.
delicious. 23
The Beach Club
bar at Watsons Bay
Boutique Hotel has
a beach-shack
vibe. Left: Sydney’s
new Clubhouse.
WordsLara
ZiLibow
itZ,shannon
harLey,heid
iFin
nane,LiZZie
LoeL&
hiLarymcnevin
Femme FataLe
Meet Gingerella, a
sultry concoction
of ginger, lemon
and spice from
Fairtrade co-ops
around the world.
$4.50/330ml; visit:
karmacola.com.au.
sugar and spice
The Yarra Valley Chocolaterie
& Ice Creamery has looked to the
garden for inspiration for their new
range, including toasted coconut
and curry leaf, and fig and fennel
seed. $7.50/bar; visit: yvci.com.au.
insider.
aMOVeaBLe FeaST
trending now
The trend for boutique
infused gin has arrived
Down Under with Four
Pillars Gin. Made in
the Yarra Valley, each
bottle is infused with
Australian natives such
as Tasmanian pepper
berry leaf and lemon
is a handy new tool from taste.com.au,
ingredients, cooking times and even allergies. Sign up
now for a free 28-day trial at tasteplanner.com.au.
nut cracker
Prefer your
on-trend coconut
water straight
from the shell?
Make it easy with
the CocoCut – no
machete required.
$29 each; visit:
cococut.com.
26 delicious.
Don’t miss...• Daylesford in Victoria plays host to the annual Regional Producers Day, which
is now in its 11th year in the grounds of Lake House (pictured). This market-style
celebration features over 50 stallholders, including the best farmers, producers,
bakers, winemakers and brewers from the region. There are also tastings, cooking
demonstrations and tutorials with a $5 entry fee. Visit: lakehouse.com.au/whats-on.
• Head to North East Victoria for the Tastes of Rutherglen Festival 2014
(March 8-9 and March 15-16) for two weekends flled with fabulous food
and wine as leading regional chefs and local winemakers play host to tastings,
markets, music and more. Visit: winemakers.com.au.
• Join Martin Teplitzky at his Take 2 Eggs Cooking Academy in Sydney as he
recreates some of the recipes from his mother’s legendary cooking school
in ‘Gretta Anna Revisited’ (February 1 & April 5). Visit: take2eggs.net.
• The next time you fy Singapore Airlines, be sure to check out their newly
designed SilverKris Lounge at Sydney airport. Renowned architectural and
interior-design frm ONG&ONG are behind the sleek new lounges worldwide,
which have a ‘home away from home’ ambience.
insider.
Take a look at the magical country of Morocco through the lens of Aussie photographerRob Palmer and his French/Moroccan wife Sophia, in their new bookColour ofMaroc
(Murdoch Books, $59.99) – a collection of traditional and contemporary recipesinterwoven with personal stories inspired by their travels.Head to the NSWNorthern Rivers with Byron Bay – a Food Journey Through
the Region (Tancred Holdings, $34.95). This collection of recipes, compiled byRemy Tancred and Nelly le Comte, highlights the finest producers and restaurantsof one of our most popular travel destinations.Join Paris-based foodie Rachel Khoo on her tour de France in her second book
My Little French Kitchen (Penguin, $39.95) as she seeks inspiration from famoushotpots and hidden gems around the country. Can’t get enough of French flavours?Irish-born Trish Deseine’s new book, The Paris Gourmet (Thames &Hudson, $45),is a definitive guide to Paris withmust-visit addresses and insider tips.
Chef’s tableSean Brock, Husk Restaurant,
Charleston & Nashville, USWhat is Husk known for? We first
opened Husk in Charleston (pictured) to
give a fresh outlook on Southern cuisine.
What makes the restaurants unique?
The dishes and ingredients tell a story
of a particular place, a family, or time
period. We want people to eat delicious
food, but also to think about where they
are and how special the US South is.
What is your favourite ingredient
to cook with? If I had to choose,
I would have to say heirloom corn.
It’s responsible for a lot of my favourite
things such as cornbread, grits, hominy
and of course, bourbon.
Do you have a signature dish? I choose
not to. Cooking is about discovery –
I like the freedom of constant evolution.
Visit: husknashville.com.
par avio
np
ar
avion
Succulent chunk-style tuna fi llets
All natural ingredients
In an Italian extra virgin olive oil blend
Try it and you’ll understand why Australians have loved their Sirena since 1956
JUST ONE TASTE
AND YOU’LL CHANGE YOUR TUNA
For tasty tuna recipes and more, go to www.sirena.com.au
$$$
With outdoor entertaining on the agenda,
Andrea shares favourite wines for summer.
what to drink when. by andrea frost
I’ve often thought that what makes anything suitable to the
great outdoors is really just a matter of attitude. Well, that
and the weather. Well, your attitude, the weather, food and
the view. So, alfresco dining is a warm-weather activity and
as such usually calls for certain styles of cooking; picnics,
barbecues and casual platters. Wine-wise I’d tend toward
food-friendly whites as well as lighter reds.
First, be sure to pack some riesling. It’s an exquisite wine
with a willingness to match to many different types of foods. Try Henschke Peggy’s
Hill Riesling ($20) or (the most lauded) Grosset Polish Hill Riesling ($52).
Vermentino is a savoury and easy-drinking white with racy acidity and fresh lime
– a wonderful match with seafood. Try Montevecchio Bianco ($23), a blend of mainly
Vermentino and Fiano, or Oliver’s Taranga Vineyards Vermentino ($24).
Rosé and summer just go hand in hand. Try Freeman Rondo Rosé ($20),
Le Chat Noir Rosé ($16) or La Linea Rosé ($21). Remember to serve it ice cold.
When it comes to reds, try those at the lighter end of the spectrum. Grenache
offers bright berry flavours and a little spice. Try S.C. Pannell Grenache ($55)
or Wirra Wirra The Absconder Grenache ($70).
Gamay is famous for making the lighter Beaujolais reds of France, which have
floral notes, some berries and a little spice and acid; and is ideal for warmer weather.
Try De Bortoli Roundstone Vinoque Gamay ($25) or Sorrenberg Gamay ($40). d.
Follow Andrea at newrubypress.com; send your questions for Andrea to:
[email protected] with ÔWhat to drink whenÕ in the subject line.
Take it outside
“Is it ever OK to put ice cubes in wine?”Putting ice in your wine is not against any laws, it’s merely a wine-drinking faux pas.
Or is it? Well, when wine is too warm, the aromas dissipate and all you’re left with is
tepid alcohol that makes for an unpleasant drink. To mymind, it’s better to put a cube
or two of ice in your wine to cool it down and keep it fresh, than to drink it warm.
However, when it comes to old, rare or special wine, I take all of this back.
Wirra Wirra TheAbsconder Grenache2012, $70
A variety that is doing very
well in Australia, this wine
is bright and charming,
offering aromas of crushed
red berries, some earth
and a hint of spice. The
palate is medium-bodied,
offering berries, spice and
lovely soft tannins.
$$La Linea Rosé 2013, $21
A wonderful example of
a modern Australian rosé,
this wine is pale, dry and
delicious. Brimming with
wafts of red fruit, rosehip
and a little spice, the wine
is bone-dry with refreshing
acidity to finish. Chill it
down and drink it up.
$Jacob’s Creek Riesling2012, $12
Possibly one of the
best-value wines around,
Jacob’s Creek Riesling
is a highly awarded and
easy-drinking wine. This
wine offers lovely floral
aromatics, a squeeze of
citrus on the palate and a
gentle line of acid to finish.
WordsAndReA
fRosT
illustrAtio
nssTephAnie
WesTCoTT
EAT WELL . BE WELL .
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* Entry open to Australian residents aged 18 years and over. Prize valued at up to $22,500 (incl GST). Promotion commences on 02/01/2014 at 12:00pmAEDT andcloses at 11:59amAEDT on 30/01/2014. To enter, go to toyota.com.au/corolla/goodtimes and submit your entry. Judged on 07/02/2014.Winners will be notified inwriting and published on the Toyota website toyota.com.au (Newsroom section) on 12/02/2014. Prizemust be claimed by 07/03/2014. Prizesmust be used on orby dates, and in themanner set out in the promotional Terms and Conditions. For full promotional Terms and Conditions, go to toyota.com.au/corolla/goodtimes.Promoter: Toyota Motor Corporation Australia Limited (ABN 64 009 686 097) 155 Bertie Street, Port Melbourne VIC 3207.
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insider.
Wood FireGrillWHERE noosa wharf, 2 Quamby pl,
noosa heads, Qld, (07) 5447 2455.
WHoowner Brent ogilvie, who also
owns famed rickys next door and
nearby aromas cafe, with chef luke
Czajkowskyj (ex-rockpool Bar & grill
and flying fish) who heads up the
team in the open marble-clad kitchen.
THE BUZZ walls of firewood make it
a cosy spot, but the parkland and river
views bring salty breezes – a gentle
reminder you are dining in paradise.
THE MENU Cooking is centred on the
roaring woodfire, and provenance is
key for meat, seafood and produce.
THE DRINKS Craft beers and ciders
are on tap, there’s a small list
of classic cocktails and a strong
international wine list compliments
the beef-centric menu.
MUST EAT try the bone marrow
with garlic and parsley on sourdough
or the smoky chargrilled king prawns
with herby chimichurri.
Into the fireThe team behind Noosa favourite Rickys now has a spin-offrestaurant, where it’s all about fresh produce cooked over flames.
king prawnswith chimichurriserves 4-6 as a starter
16 green king prawns, (shells intact),
heads and legs removed
11/2 cups flat-leaf parsley leaves1/2 cup oregano leaves
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp chilli flakes
100ml extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to brush1/2 tsp dried thyme1/2 tsp dried oregano
Juice of 1/2 lemon,
plus wedges to serve
Dilute 2 tsp salt in 1 tbs hot water and
set aside to cool. Split the whole prawns
lengthways and devein. Set aside.
To make the chimichurri, whiz remaining
ingredients, except the lemon wedges,
with salt water in a small food processor
until smooth. Transfer half to a large bowl.
Add prawns, then cover and chill for
15 minutes to marinate. Set aside the
remaining chimichurri until ready to serve.
Preheat a chargrill pan over high heat
and brush with oil. Grill prawns, flesh-side
down for 2-3 minutes. Turn and cook for
a further 1 minute or until cooked through.
Serve the prawns drizzled with reserved
chimichurri and lemon wedges on the side.
EurovisionAfter 13 years at Sydney’s Longrain, Martin Boetz returns to hisEuropean roots with the new pared back, all-day diner Rushcutters.
pork schnitzel with slawServes 4
7 star anise
5 bay leaves
2 tsp each fennel and coriander seeds2/3 cup (190g) cooking salt1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
800g pork neck, skin and rind removed
(ask your butcher to do this) to give
600g fillet2/3 cup (100g) plain flour
3 eggs, lightly beaten with 1 tbs water
12/3 cups (120g) fresh rye breadcrumbs
75g unsalted butter1/2 cup (125ml) sunflower oil
Lemon wedges, to serve
Slaw
1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced
6 chives, roughly chopped
1 radicchio heart, shredded1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbs creme fraiche or sour cream
2 tbs pure (thin) cream
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp white vinegar
11/2 tbs olive oil
1 tsp caster sugar
Combine anise, bay, fennel and coriander
seeds, salt and sugar with 2L (8 cups) water
in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to
the boil, then cook for 3-4 minutes until
sugar dissolves. Cool completely. Transfer
to a plastic container, then add pork, cover
and chill overnight to brine.
Drain pork, discarding brine. Cut pork
into four 150g pieces, then place between
2 pieces of plastic wrap and lightly flatten
with a meat mallet. Dust pork in flour, then
dip in eggwash and coat in breadcrumbs.
Heat butter and sunflower oil in a
frypan over medium heat. Shallow-fry
pork for 4 minutes each side or until
golden. Drain on paper towel.
For the slaw, combine the cucumber,
chives, radicchio and parsley in a bowl.
Whisk the remaining ingredients together
in a small bowl, then season and drizzle
over the slaw.
Serve pork with slaw and lemon wedges. WordsHeid
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RushcuttersWHERE 10 neild ave, rushcutters
Bay, nsW, (02) 9326 9348.
WHo Keystone group has teamed
up with executive chef Martin Boetz
(ex-longrain) and head chef Kasper
christensen (ex-Quay).
THE buzz the site of the former
neild avenue restaurant has been
given a rustic farmhouse vibe with a
vaulted beam ceiling, exposed brick
walls and splashes of greenery across
the bar, deli and open dining room.
THE mEnu full-flavoured and
seasonal, featuring produce from
Martin’s hawkesbury river farm, the
cook’s co-op; European-inspired with
smoked meats, german-style
house-made rye and simple salads.
THE dRinks Wines are by the glass,
beers are on tap and cocktails are
made with natural sweeteners.
musT EaT the plump fried sardines
with sweet roasted tomatoes, and
from 5pm the pick of the menu is
the brined pork schnitzel.
TENDERISE OR STIRFRY
M A K E I T
Cool concertoThe home of the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra, Hamer Hall,now also houses bright new Italian eatery Fatto Bar & Cantina.
cofee granitaServes 6
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
1 tbs instant coffee granules dissolved
in 200ml hot water
50ml Kahlua (or other coffee liqueur)
Whipped cream and shaved dark
chocolate, to serve
Combine the sugar and hot coffee in
a large bowl, stirring until the sugar
dissolves. Add Kahlua and 200ml cold
water, then stir to combine. Pour the
mixture into a shallow container, then
freeze for 1 hour or until partially frozen.
Remove the container from the freezer
and break up the crystals by scraping the
surface with a fork. Return to the freezer
for 1 hour, then repeat process two more
times. Transfer granita to an airtight
container and freeze until needed.
To serve, divide the granita among
6 small serving glasses. Top with a dollop
of whipped cream, sprinkle with chocolate
shavings and serve immediately.
wordsHilaryMcnevin
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36 delicious.
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Fatto Bar &CantinaWHERE 100 st Kilda rd, Melbourne,
Vic, (03) 8698 8800.
WHo the Van haandel group –
owners of stokehouse in st Kilda and
Brisbane, and Comme in Melbourne
CBd – opened the hamer hall site as
trocadero in 2012, but have recently
relaunched it as fatto Bar & Cantina.
THE BUZZ a chic redesign by design
studio projects of imagination brings
a mod-bistro feel, and the group’s
executive chef and creative director,
anthony Musarra is back in the kitchen
cooking italian-influenced dishes.
THE MENU there is a large appetizer
section – think focaccia with whipped
ricotta, crushed peas and beans –
classic pasta dishes and meaty mains.
THE DRINKS a savvy list of australian
and italian wines and aperitivos.
MUST EAT pastas are a must, try the
ravioli with roasted broccoli or crab
spaghettini, then skip espresso and
head straight for a coffee granita. d.
delicious. 39
Recipesrebecca
smith
&lucyw
illia
ms
photogRaphymaja
smend
stylin
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gleden,racheljukes&
lucyo’reilly
Tartskeep a packet of pastry on standby in
the freezer and you’ll never be caught
out again for last-minute summer picnics.
40 delicious.
crab & watercress soufe tarts >Serves 4
2 sheets frozen shortcrust
pastry, thawed
2 eggs, separated
15g unsalted butter
15g plain flour
Large pinch cayenne pepper
150ml milk
200g fresh cooked crabmeat*
1 cup watercress leaves,
finely chopped
Preheat oven to 200°C and grease four 10cm loose-bottomed
tart pans. Line pans with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill
for 15 minutes. Line tarts with baking paper and pastry weights,
then bake for 10 minutes. Remove weights and baking paper,
then cook for a further 5 minutes or until golden.
Meanwhile, whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until soft
peaks form. In a separate bowl, beat yolks until smooth. Set aside.
Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add flour
and cayenne pepper, then cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until
flour is well combined. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly for
2-3 minutes until thick. Remove from heat, then add egg yolks,
crabmeat, and watercress, stirring to combine. Season.
Gently fold 1 tbs eggwhite through crab mixture to loosen,
then fold through remaining eggwhite. Divide mixture among
tart pans, then place on a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes
or until filling is golden and set. Remove from pans, then serve.
* Fresh cooked crabmeat is available from fishmongers.
< pancetta, pecorino & herb tartServes 4-6
1 large (quiche size) sheet
frozen shortcrust
pastry, thawed
150g pancetta, chopped
1 egg, plus 2 extra egg yolks
300ml thickened cream1/4 cup (60ml) milk1/2 cup (40g) grated pecorino
1 tbs each chopped flat-leaf
parsley, mint and basil
Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease a 20cm (3cm deep)
loose-bottomed tart pan. Line pan with pastry, trimming any
excess, then chill for 15 minutes. Line tart with baking paper
and fill with pastry weights. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove
weights and baking paper. Return to the oven and cook for
a further 5 minutes or until golden.
Meanwhile, heat a frypan over medium-high heat.
Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, for 4-5 minutes
until crisp. Remove from heat and drain on paper towel.
Combine egg and extra yolks, cream, milk and cheese
in a bowl. Season, then stir through herbs. Scatter half the
pancetta over the tart shell, then pour over egg mixture
and top with remaining pancetta.
Bake for 30-35 minutes until filling is golden and set.
Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from pan, slice and serve.
peach & cinnamon puf pastry squares >Serves 4
1 sheet frozen butter
puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 small peaches
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
2 cinnamon quills
Mascarpone or thick cream,
to serve
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the pastry on a baking
paper-lined baking tray. Prick all over with a fork and brush
with egg. Cover with a sheet of baking paper and top with
a heavy tray. Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp and golden.
Meanwhile, cut a small cross in the base of each peach.
Blanch the peaches in a saucepan of boiling water for
30 seconds. Drain and refresh in cold water, then peel
and slice into wedges.
Combine sugar, cinnamon and 1 cup (250ml) water in
a saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, for
1-2 minutes until sugar dissolves. Add peach and cook
for 5 minutes or until peach is tender. Remove peach and
set aside, then increase heat to high and bring liquid to
the boil. Cook for 7 minutes or until reduced and syrupy.
Discard cinnamon and set syrup aside.
Arrange the peach over the pastry, then drizzle over the
syrup. Slice into 4 squares, then serve with mascarpone. d.
< leek & feta tartServes 6
1 large (quiche size) sheet
frozen shortcrust pastry,
thawed
25g unsalted butter
2 leeks (white part only),
thinly sliced
100g good-quality feta,
crumbled
200ml thickened cream
100ml milk
2 eggs, plus
2 extra yolks
Preheat the oven to 170°C and grease a 23cm loose-bottomed
tart pan. Line pan with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill
for 15 minutes. Line tart with baking paper and fill with pastry
weights. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove weights and
baking paper. Return to the oven and cook for a further
5 minutes or until golden.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a large frypan over medium heat.
Add leek and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes until
softened. Season, then scatter leek and feta over the tart shell.
Combine the cream, milk, egg and extra egg yolks in a
bowl. Season well, then pour over the leek.
Bake for 30 minutes or until filling is golden and set.
Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and serve.
easy does it.
“You are to cut it into pieces, and the priest
shall arrange them on the wood that is
burning on the altar… It is a burnt ofering,
a food ofering, an aroma pleasing to the
Lord.” Here it is, writ large as life in The
Bible… God loves a barbecue! And who
are we to disagree, so rather than my
usual 5 reasons, here are S reasons.
Why? Because there are just so many
more reasons starting with S!
SLABS
Refers to icy cold beer obviously, as a barbecue without beer is
like a pagan festival without a sacrifice. Slabs also account for
meat. Get all Neanderthal and throw a whole hunk of animal
on the grill to commune with your
cave-dwelling ancestors. Perhaps a beef
fillet (nicely seasoned with salt only as this
will help a perfect crust to form; no pepper
because that will burn) or a boned-out leg
of lambmarinated in oil, lemon, garlic and
rosemary. Start the meat on a very hot grill
or flat plate over a direct heat, then when
it’s got a lovely burnished surface swap it
over to the cool side of the barbecue and
cook it with the lid down and with only
indirect heat until done to your liking.
STEAK
Of course, the other route is to ask your butcher to cut your
steaks super-thin and blast them on a searing-hot grill.
I love steak done this way for steak sandwiches with
slow-cooked onions, rocket, beetroot and horseradish.
SMOKE
While Aussie ‘barbies’ are all about quick cookery, in the US
South, where barbecuing is also a religion, it’s all about taking
things slow ‘n’ steady, with indirect heat and pits, which are very
diferent from our chrome-domed gas guzzlers. Slower cooking
benefits cheap cuts of meat and also allows the meat to pick up
Just the thought of outdoor smokers, spits and steaks gets Matt all hotunder the collar, so this month he can’t settle on only 5 reasons to grill.
to barbecuesome excellent smoky flavours. You can achieve this on your
lidded or kettle barbecue by buying wood chips, throwing them
in a holedmetal smoker box (available from barbecue shops and
big hardware places), wrapping them in heavy duty aluminium
foil, or arranging them in a small robust metal roasting tray,
before introducing them to heat to make them smoulder. This
summer, I intend to sneak round to chef Ben Shewry’s home to
play with his giant US style smoker-cum-barbecue that is the
size of a small locomotive and that will smoke and slow-cook
everything from hogs mopped with glaze to beef brisket.
SKEWERS
Skewers are a sure-fire winner with kids, about the easiest
of all meats to cook, and an invitation to be creative.
Lengths of spice-rubbed tenderloin served with peanut
sauce for ‘satay’; skewered cubes of lamb,
or coriander seed-rubbed pork, grilled
as Russian ‘shashlyk’; or to make Greek
‘souvlaki’ or Turkish ‘sis kebabi’. I prefer to
marinate my lamb or chicken Indian-style
in yoghurt with spices, or take a leaf out
of the Iranian kitchen by blitzing onions
so I can steep the meat in onion juice
overnight – this makes for wonderfully
tender meat. My favourite skewers are not
marinated at all. There’s an old Portuguese
recipe that interweaves lightly crushed
whole fresh bay leaves with beef onto
skewers, then grills them slowly. The leaf oils give the meat
a beautiful flavour and as the leaves burn, the smoke adds
another layer of flavour. Also, don’t forget the Cypriot
caul-wrapped ‘sheftalia’ skewers, which are not all that
diferent to our next ‘S’ – the superstar of the barbecue.
SAUSAGES
This is what puts the sizzle into the barbecue. Just a few
tips when cooking your snags: make sure they are at room
temperature before cooking; toast them up on a hot grill first;
then let them finish on a far lower heat – this should ensure
that they’re succulent and cooked through.
“I received a spitfor my birthday, solambs and sucklingpigs are destinedto slowly turn (andturn) into dinner.”
reasons
illustratio
nStephanie
weStcott
SPIT
This summer, I’ll be inviting many more people round each time
I throw a barbecue because I received a spit for my birthday.
So, whole lambs and suckling pigs are destined to slowly
turn (and turn) into dinner. You’ll find basic spits selling
at mega-hardware shops for about $100.
SEAFOOD
Sure the barbecue may be all about satisfying the desire for
meat but don’t forget the beauty of bugs or lobsters cooked
in the half shell, or prawns cooked on skewers for ease. Or cook
prawns a la plancha as the Spanish do, so they curl up orange
with chunks of chorizo, capsicum and blistered cherry tomatoes.
SWEETCORN
While I understand there is a place for grilling eggplant, field
mushrooms or zucchini, really the only vego solution that cuts it
for me on the same level as a good snag or steak is roasty-edged
cobs of sweet corn. These you can slather with butter, salt,
lime juice and dark brown sugar (for a sharper version
of the Dutch classic) or a mix of toasted shredded coconut,
chilli powder and fresh red chilli, cut with a little sugar and salt.
SWEET
There used to be that thing when people would ask everyone
to bring their ownmeat to the barbecue, but I would far rather
they brought their own desserts. Personally I could just go a
Lime Splice or barbecued bananas cooked in their skins with
chunks of chocolate pushed into the flesh through a single long
incision. And don’t forget that sweet works well with desserts
as well as with savoury. Pineapple is a case in point. In that
new cookbook of mine, I’ve got a recipe for pineapple with lime
syrup and black pepper which is ace on the grill but you can
also fry rings of it next to bacon for a killer Aussie burger.
Why not go all out and just fry the pineapple in the bacon fat?
SALADS
Please close the curtains and disconnect the phone. What I am
about to tell you might have the Secret Grill Police banging
on my door to confiscate my tongs if they heard what I am
about to share, to wit: I think that the salads are more interesting
than the meat at a barbecue – and that’s not just because I’d
rather hang out with women than men overly keen on proving
their alpha-dom. I’d love to tell you more, but we’ll have to save
that for my next column... d.
Matt Preston’s new cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Unbelievably
Delicious (Plum/PanMacmillan; $39.95) is on sale now.
matt preston.
delicious. 43
44 delicious.
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ALMOND PAN FRIED HALOUMI, ROCKET AND ORANGE SALAD
INGREDIENTSjuice of 1 orange
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
125g baby rocket leaves
1 cup parsley leaves
3 oranges, peeled, halved and thinly sliced
180g packet Lemnos Haloumi, cut into 1/2 cm thick slices
plain flour, for dusting
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup natural flaked almonds, roughly chopped
oil, for shallow frying
METHOD1. Combine orange juice, oil, garlic and
mustard in a jar and shake until well combined.
2. Arrange rocket, parsley and orange slices on a serving platter.
3. Coat haloumi in flour, dip in egg and roll in combined breadcrumbs and almonds, pressing firmly.
4. Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat and cook haloumi on each side, until golden. Drain on absorbent paper, before adding to salad greens. Drizzle with dressing and serve immediately.
TIPS• This salad makes a perfect
vegetarian meal.
• To save time, cook haloumi in advance and then flash in a hot oven for 2-3 minutes just prior to serving.
www.lemnosfoods.com te life the Mediterranean way
salad inspiration?Looking for summer
• Katie Quinn Davies’ menu for two • Tropical desserts • Valli Little’s beach barbecue
delicious. 47
valli’s kitchen diary.
delicious. 49
What better way to enjoy a fresh catch of seafoodthan with a sunset beach barbecue? Simply prepyour herbs and sauces in advance, then sit backand relax as the food sizzles on the open flames.
goe down
50 delicious.
salmon escalopes withdill & avocado saladServes 4
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil, plus extra to brush
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tbs
lemon juice and wedges to serve
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
4 x 200g skinless salmon fillets1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tbs Champagne vinegar
or white wine vinegar
Dill & avocado salad
2 Lebanese cucumbers, halved, sliced
1 avocado, halved, sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked1/2 bunch dill, fronds picked
Combine the olive oil, lemon zest and
garlic, then season well. Slice the salmon
on a 45-degree angle into 1cm-thick slices.
Coat the salmon in the marinade
and set aside for 15 minutes.
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high.
Combine the extra virgin olive oil, vinegar
and lemon juice. Season well and set
dressing aside.
For the salad, combine all ingredients.
Brush the chargrill with olive oil and cook
the salmon for 30 seconds each side or
until just cooked and slightly charred.
Toss the salad with the dressing, then
serve with the salmon and lemon wedges.
chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioliServes 4 as a starter
12 large green prawns (unpeeled)
2 tbs ponzu sauce* (see Cook’s
Notes, p 56)
300g aioli* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56)
Lime wedges and snow pea tendrils*
(optional – see Cook’s Notes, p 56),
to serve
Chilli soy marinade
2 small red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
2 tbs light soy sauce1/3 cup (80ml) oyster sauce
2 tbs fish sauce
2 tbs palm sugar
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
For the marinade, combine all the
ingredients in a bowl. Add the prawns
and toss to coat. Set aside for at least
30 minutes to marinate.
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill
to high and cook the prawns, turning,
for 4 minutes or until cooked through.
Combine ponzu and aioli in a bowl.
Serve prawns with the ponzu aioli, lime
wedges and snow pea tendrils, if using.
jamon-wrapped sardineswith harissa and chickpeasServes 4
400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp smoked paprika (pimenton)*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 56)
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush
8 fresh sardines, cleaned (ask
your fishmonger to do this)
8 thin slices jamon or prosciutto
1 cup (320g) tomato chutney
2 tsp harissa
Salad leaves, to serve
Preheat a barbecue to medium-high.
Place a frypan over medium heat.
Combine chickpeas, cumin, pimenton
and oil in a bowl, then add to the pan and
cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes
or until chickpeas are crisp and golden.
Wrap each sardine in a slice of jamon and
brush with oil. Barbecue the sardines for
2-3 minutes each side until cooked through.
Combine the chutney and harissa, then
serve with sardines, warm chickpeas and
salad leaves. reCiPeSvallilittle&
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valli’s kitchen diary.
Salmon escalopes
with dill &
avocado salad.
Opposite: chilli
soy prawns with
ponzu aioli.
52 delicious.
chargrilled baby octopuswith pico de galloServes 4
2 bay leaves
1 tbs whole black peppercorns1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar
1kg baby octopus, beaks removed1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp caster sugar
Pico de gallo1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
2 long green chillies, finely chopped
2 spring onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, seeds removed, chopped
Juice of 1 lime, plus wedges to serve1/2 bunch coriander, leaves chopped
Fill a large saucepan with water and add
bay leaves, peppercorns, vinegar and
1 tbs sea salt. Bring to a boil, then add
the octopus and cook for 30 minutes
or until tender.
Meanwhile, to make the pico de gallo,
combine all ingredients and set aside.
Drain octopus and combine with the oil,
garlic and sugar. Season well. Preheat a
barbecue or chargrill to high. Cook the
octopus, turning, for 4-5 minutes or until
charred. Serve with pico de gallo and
lime wedges to squeeze over.
valli’s kitchen diary.
Jamon-wrapped
sardines with
harissa and
chickpeas
54 delicious.
whole baked snapper withginger and chilliServes 4
4 lemons, sliced, plus wedges to serve
6cm piece ginger, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 long red chillies, sliced
1 cup coriander leaves, plus extra to serve1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
2 whole snapper, cleaned (ask your
fishmonger to do this), skin scored
Thinly sliced spring onion and
mint leaves, to serve
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high.
Place 2 sheets of foil on a workbench and
top each with a sheet of baking paper.
Divide half the lemon slices, ginger,
garlic, chilli, coriander and oil between
the paper and top with the fish. Cover with
remaining lemon slices, ginger, garlic,
chilli, coriander and oil, then season. Seal
the parcels and cook on the barbecue
for 25-30 minutes until cooked.
Open the parcels and top with spring
onion, herbs and lemon wedges.
chilli crabServes 4
3 uncooked blue swimmer crabs*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 56)
2 tbs peanut oil1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
2 long red chillies, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2cm piece ginger, grated
2 spring onions, cut into batons
3 tomatoes, chopped
2 tbs Chinese rice wine (shaohsing)*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 56)
1 tbs each brown sugar and kecap
manis* (see Cook’s Notes, p 56)
3 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded
1 cup coriander leaves
Cut each crab into 6, using a cleaver,
and make a few cracks in the shell of each
piece using the blunt side of the knife.
Heat the oil in a wok over high heat until
it starts to smoke. Add onion, chilli, garlic,
ginger and spring onion, then stir-fry for
1 minute or until fragrant. Add the crab
and toss to combine.
Add tomato, rice wine, sugar and kecap
manis, then toss to combine. Cover and
steam for 4 minutes or until crab is cooked.
Serve immediately topped with kaffir
lime leaf and coriander.
barramundi in banana leafwith coconut riceServes 4
11/2 cups (265g) sticky rice*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 56)
1 tbs fish sauce
1 tbs grated palm sugar or brown sugar
2 tbs grated ginger
4 x 200g skinless barramundi fillets
1 tbs peanut oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 spring onions, thinly sliced1/2 cup (125ml) coconut milk
2 limes, sliced
4 large fresh banana leaves* (see Cook’s
Notes, p 56)
4 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded
2 long red chillies, thinly sliced
Rinse rice, then soak in a bowl of cold water
for 1 hour. Combine fish sauce, sugar and
1 tbs ginger in a bowl, then brush over fish.
Set aside for 15 minutes to marinate.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat
and cook garlic, remaining 1 tbs ginger
and half the spring onion for 2 minutes
or until fragrant. Add the rice and stir
to coat. Add 11/4 cups (310ml) hot water
along with the coconut milk. Season
and cook, covered, over low heat for
20 minutes or until rice is cooked.
Preheat barbecue to high. Place 2 lime
slices in the centre of each banana leaf and
top with a fish fillet and kaffir lime leaf. Fold
up to form parcels and enclose in foil to
seal. Barbecue, turning, for 12 minutes or
until cooked. Top with chilli and remaining
spring onion, then serve with rice. Opener:buntingfrom
Terrace
(Bondia
ndWoolla
hra
NSW,terrace
outdoorliving.com.au);
bluecloth
(use
dthroughout)from
Cloth
Fabric(D
arlinghurstNSW,clothfabric.co
m).
Whole baked snapper
with ginger and chilli.
Opposite: chilli crab.
valli’s kitchen diary.
56 delicious.
Barramundi in banana
leaf with coconut rice
valli’s kitchen diary.
chocolate s’mores
Makes 12
24 white marshmallows
24 thin chocolate biscuits (we used
Phillippa’s Chocolate Biscuits)
200g good-quality dark
chocolate, melted
Cocoa powder, to dust
Place marshmallows on long skewers
and hold over a barbecue until charred.
Place 2 marshmallows on each of
12 biscuits, drizzle with melted chocolate
and sandwich with remaining 12 biscuits.
Dust with cocoa and drizzle with extra
chocolate to serve. d.
Cook’s Note* Snow pea tendrils are from
selected greengrocers.
* Ponzu is a tart, citrus-based
Japanese sauce, available
from Asian grocers.
* Good-quality aioli and smoked
paprika (pimenton) are from
gourmet food shops and delis.
* Whole blue swimmer crabs are
available from fishmongers.
* Chinese rice wine (shaohsing),
kecap manis (Indonesian sweet
soy sauce) and sticky or
glutinous rice (a short-grain rice
that’s sticky when cooked) are
available from supermarkets.
58 delicious.
chicken
lightatotacos
porkFrom
ofouthassl
ethe
takenwe’v
esalad
,
dinnertime with
these7 easy
recipes.
Recipeswarren
mendes
photogRaphyJeremysim
ons
stylin
gbernismithies
smoked chicken & fig saladserves 4
11/2 tbs pomegranate molasses*(see Cook’s Notes)
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 radicchio, leaves torn1/2 oakleaf lettuce, leaves torn
3 x 140g smoked chicken breast
fillets* (see Cook’s Notes)
4 figs, quartered lengthways
1 Lebanese cucumber, halved
lengthways, thinly sliced
50g manchego* (see Cook’s Notes)
Sourdough, to serve
To make the dressing, combine the
pomegranate molasses, oil and lemon
juice in a small bowl. Season and set aside.
Combine the radicchio and oakleaf
lettuce in a large bowl and shred the
chicken over the salad leaves, discarding
the skin. Scatter over the fig and
cucumber, then, using a vegetable peeler,
shave over the manchego.
Drizzle the dressing over salad
and serve with slices of sourdough.
Cook’s Note* Pomegranate molasses is a Middle
Eastern condiment with a sweet/
sour flavour, available from delis.
* Smoked chicken breast fillets
are available from selected
supermarkets and delis.
* Manchego, a hard Spanish sheep’s
milk cheese, is available from
selected supermarkets and delis.
60 delicious.
pan-fried blue-eyewith wild rice saladServes 4
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
4 x 200g blue-eye fillets
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon,
plus wedges to serve
1 tsp Dijon mustard3/4 cup (135g) wild or brown rice, cooked
to packet instructions, cooled
100g marinated roasted capsicum,
drained, chopped1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts, toasted1/2 bunch mint, leaves torn1/2 bunch basil, leaves torn
Place 2 tbs oil in a large frypan over
medium heat. Season the fish and cook,
skin-side down, for 4 minutes, then turn
and cook for a further 3 minutes or until
cooked through. Transfer to a plate and
set aside to rest, loosely covered
with foil, for 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the dressing,
combine the lemon zest and juice, mustard
and remaining 2 tbs oil in a large bowl.
Season, then add the cooled rice. Add
the roasted capsicum, pine nuts, mint
and basil, then toss to combine.
Discard the skin from the fish and
serve with the wild rice salad and lemon
wedges to squeeze over.
daily special
chorizo, ricotta& zucchini casarecceServes 4
1 tbs olive oil
160g dried chorizo sausage, sliced
4 large zucchinis, halved lengthways,
thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
400g casarecce or penne
1 cup (120g) frozen peas1/4 cup (60ml) white wine
Juice of 1/2 lemon1/2 bunch basil leaves
100g ricotta, crumbled
Place the oil in a large frypan over
medium-high heat, add chorizo and cook
for 2-3 minutes until golden. Add zucchini
and garlic, then cook for a further
2-3 minutes until fragrant. Set aside.
Meanwhile, cook pasta to packet
instructions, adding the peas for
the final 2 minutes. Drain, reserving1/3 cup (80ml) cooking water.
Add the wine and lemon juice to
the frypan, along with the pasta, peas,
reserved water and half the basil, then
season. Return to medium heat and
stir to combine until heated through.
Serve with ricotta and remaining basil.
62 delicious.
peach & pork tacosServes 4
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cayenne pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
4 x 140g pork loin medallions1/2 tsp caster sugar
1 tbs apple cider vinegar
11/2 cups (100g) shredded red cabbage
8 mini tortillas
2 peaches, stones removed, thinly sliced1/3 cup (80g) creme fraiche
or sour cream
Coriander leaves, to serve
To make the marinade, combine the
fennel seeds, cayenne pepper, garlic and
oil. Season with salt. Rub over the pork
and set aside for 15 minutes to marinate.
Meanwhile, combine sugar and apple
cider vinegar, then toss with the cabbage
and set aside until ready to serve.
Place a large frypan over medium
heat. Add pork and cook for 4 minutes
each side or until cooked through.
Transfer to a plate and set aside to
rest, loosely covered with foil, for
3 minutes, then thinly slice.
To serve, fill each tortilla with cabbage,
pork and peach. Drizzle over the creme
fraiche and top with coriander leaves.
daily special
dukkah-crusted lamb cutletswith strawberry couscousServes 4
11/2 cups (300g) instant couscous1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
12 French-trimmed lamb cutlets1/4 cup (30g) dukkah
250g punnet strawberries, quartered1/2 bunch mint, leaves shredded
400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
1 tbs white balsamic or
white wine vinegar
Thick Greek-style yoghurt,
to serve
Place the couscous in a large heatproof
bowl, stir through 1 tbs oil and season.
Add 11/2 cups (375ml) boiling water, cover
and set aside for 5 minutes to absorb.
Meanwhile, place remaining 2 tbs oil
in a frypan over medium-high heat. Season
the lamb and cook, in 2 batches, for
2 minutes each side for medium or until
cooked to your liking. Transfer to a plate
and rest, loosely covered with foil, for
2 minutes. Press the lamb in the dukkah.
Add berries, mint, chickpeas and vinegar
to the couscous, then season and toss to
combine. Serve with the lamb and yoghurt.
64 delicious.
seafood espetada(portuguese skewers)Serves 4-6
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 long red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
2 tsp ground ginger
3 tsp sweet paprika
2 tsp dried oregano1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil,
plus extra to brush
4 limes, cut into wedges
24 prawns, peeled (tails intact), deveined
300g squid tubes, cut into 3cm strips
400g swordfish fillets,
cut into 3cm pieces
4 corn cobs
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve
If you don’t have 12 metal skewers,
soak 12 wooden skewers in cold water
for 30 minutes, then drain. Preheat
a chargrill or barbecue to high.
To make the marinade, combine
the garlic, chilli, ginger, paprika, oregano
and oil, then season.
To make one skewer, thread 1 lime
wedge, 1 prawn, 1 piece of squid and
1 piece of swordfish onto a skewer,
then repeat. Repeat with remaining
skewers, then coat in the marinade.
Brush corn with oil and chargrill, turning,
for 10 minutes, until blistered and tender.
Set aside. Brush chargrill with oil and cook
skewers, in batches, for 2-3 minutes each
side until cooked through.
Slice the corn off the cob, garnish with
parsley and serve with the skewers.
daily special
garlic & ginger eye fillet withquick cucumber & radish pickleServes 4
1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar
11/2 tbs caster sugar
2 tbs grated ginger
2 small Lebanese cucumbers,
halved lengthways, sliced into
ribbons (using a vegetable peeler)
4 radishes, thinly sliced
1 tsp sesame seeds
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
800g beef eye fillet,
tied at 3cm intervals
2 tbs olive oil
Rocket leaves, to serve
For the pickle, combine the vinegar,
sugar, 1 tbs ginger and 1 tsp salt in a bowl
with the cucumber, radish and sesame
seeds. Set aside for 30 minutes to pickle.
Preheat oven to 200°C. Rub garlic and
remaining 1 tbs ginger over beef, and
season. Heat the oil in a large frypan over
medium-high heat. Cook beef, turning,
for 4-5 minutes until browned. Transfer
to a baking tray and roast in the oven for
15 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked
to your liking. Transfer to a plate and rest,
loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes.
Slice the beef and serve with rocket
and the cucumber and radish pickle. d.
66 delicious.
recipes,photography&stylin
gKatie
Quin
nDavies
katie quinn davies.
Raspberry, prosecco & mint
cocktail (recipe p 71)
Dim the lights and create the perfectmood to swoon this Valentine’s Daywith Katie’s elegant dinner for two.
Queen of
68 delicious.
I’ve never really beenone for heading out to
a restaurant on February 14th, opting, more often than
not, to cook at home. Coming from Ireland, I grew up with
Valentine’s Day falling smack bang in the middle of the
coldest month of the year, but now that I live in Australia,
my world’s literally upside down and I have to think of lighter
fare when planning a special dinner for two in February.
So, first of is a light and colourful cocktail using prosecco
– a wonderful alternative to Champagne. It’s lighter, more
afordable and pairs superbly with fresh raspberries and mint.
Valentine’s Day is as good excuse as any to splurge on
special-occasion ingredients, such as lobster, used as a filling
for tortelloni. I like to use lobster fresh from the fish markets,
but you can substitute prawn – it’s a perfectly good alternative.
It was inevitable steak was going to feature on this menu
(requested by my husband, Mick) so I’ve opted for a rib-eye
steak on the bone, served with a lemon, caper and dill butter,
and paired with a beetroot and maple-roasted walnut salad.
Rather than the usual chunky chips, I’ve made some oven
baked ‘crisps’, and I challenge you not to eat half of them
straight from the tray before serving. For dessert, cardamom
panna cotta, which can be prepared the night before, is
embellished with pistachio praline for efect – all you need to
add is a glass of a good sticky wine. Visit: whatkatieate.com.
“valentine’s day is a good excuseto splurge on special ingredients.”
katie quinn davies.
Lobster & ricotta
tortelloni with prosecco
& tomato sauce
katie quinn davies.
Rib-eye steaks with lemon,
caper & dill butter; beetroot,
blue cheese & maple-roasted
walnut salad; baked salt
& vinegar potato crisps
and thyme kumara crisps.
delicious. 71
raspberry, prosecco& mint cocktailMakes 2
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
125g punnet raspberries1/4 cup (60ml) vodka
Handful mint leaves, half torn
Small pinch dried chilli flakes1/2 cup (125ml) prosecco or Champagne
Place sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a
small saucepan over medium heat. Bring
to a simmer and cook for 1-2 minutes until
sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and
cool, then cover and chill until needed.
Whiz half the berries in a food processor
until smooth. Strain, discarding any solids.
Half-fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add
vodka, torn mint leaves, chilli, raspberry
puree and 2 tbs sugar syrup. Shake well,
then stir in prosecco.
Fill glasses with ice, strain over cocktail
and serve with remaining mint and berries.
lobster & ricotta tortelloniwith prosecco & tomato sauceServes 2
2 tsp olive oil
3 vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp caster sugar
50g unsalted butter, chopped
1 cup (250ml) prosecco or Champagne
Tabasco sauce, to taste
Juice of 1/2 lemon
6 wonton wrappers or homemade
pasta dough (recipe follows)
Dill sprigs (optional), to serve
Lobster & ricotta filling
1 tbs olive oil
2 eschalots, very finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed1/2 cup (125ml) prosecco or Champagne
400g cooked lobster meat, chopped1/3 cup (80g) ricotta
1 egg
Juice of 1/2 lemon
For the filling, heat oil in a frypan over
medium heat. Add eschalot and garlic,
then cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until
softened. Add prosecco, then bring to
a simmer and cook for 2 minutes or until
slightly reduced. Add lobster and cook
for a further 1 minute. Transfer mixture
to a food processor. Add ricotta, egg and
lemon juice. Pulse until a coarse paste,
then season. Transfer to a bowl, then
cover and chill until needed.
To make the prosecco and tomato
sauce, heat oil in a saucepan over
medium heat. Add tomato and cook
for 2-3 minutes until slightly softened.
Add sugar and butter, then cook for
2-3 minutes until butter melts. Add
prosecco, then cook for 25 minutes or
until liquid has reduced by half. Remove
from heat and use a stick blender to
process until smooth. Stir in Tabasco
and lemon juice to taste. Season and
keep warm until ready to serve.
If using pasta dough, cut dough into
six 12cm squares. Place 2 tsp lobster filling
in the centre of each wonton wrapper or
pasta square, brush edges with water and
fold into a triangle, pressing to seal and
pushing out as much air as possible. Fold
the 2 corners on the longer side into the
centre and pinch together. Place on a
floured tray and repeat with remaining
wrappers or pasta dough and filling.
Cook tortelloni in a large saucepan of
boiling, salted water for 3-4 minutes until
al dente. Drain, then serve with the sauce
and garnish with dill sprigs, if using.
pasta doughServes 2
200g ‘00’ flour* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 72) or plain flour, sifted
2 eggs
Whiz flour and eggs in a food processor
until mixture comes together in clumps.
Turn out onto a lightly floured work
surface and knead for 2-3 minutes until
smooth. Enclose in plastic wrap and chill
for 15 minutes to firm up.
Divide dough in half, then enclose
1 portion in plastic wrap and set aside.
Start on the thickest setting of your pasta
machine and run the dough through
1-2 times, folding it in half each time until
elastic. Keep rolling the dough through
the settings, reducing the thickness each
time, until 2mm thick. Place pasta on a
flour-dusted tray and cover with a tea
towel while you roll remaining dough.
rib-eye steaks with lemon,caper & dill butterServes 2
80g unsalted butter, softened
2 tsp capers, rinsed, drained
Few dill sprigs
Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
2 x 350g rib-eye steaks (on the bone)
Olive oil, to drizzle
Baked crisps and beetroot salad
(recipes follow), to serve
Whiz butter, capers, dill, zest and juice in
a food processor until combined. Transfer
to a bowl, then chill until ready to serve.
Heat a chargrill pan over high heat. Pat
steak dry with paper towel, then season
with salt and freshly ground black pepper,
and drizzle with oil.
Cook steaks for 4-5 minutes each side
for medium-rare or until cooked to your
liking. Cover loosely with foil and set
aside to rest for 3-5 minutes.
Serve steaks immediately with
lemon, caper and dill butter, baked
crisps and beetroot salad.
baked salt & vinegar potatocrisps and thyme kumara crispsServes 2
1 each large desiree potato and kumara
(sweet potato), scrubbed, thinly
sliced (using a mandoline)
2 tbs malt vinegar
Olive oil spray
3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
Preheat the oven to 180°C and line
2 large baking trays with baking paper.
Arrange the potato slices in a single
layer on 1 baking tray. Brush with vinegar,
spray with olive oil and sprinkle generously
with crushed sea salt flakes.
Place kumara slices on the remaining
tray, spray with a little olive oil, then
72 delicious.
season with crushed sea salt flakes, freshly
ground black pepper and thyme leaves.
Bake, turning once and rotating trays
halfway through cooking, for 35 minutes
or until crisp and golden, then serve.
beetroot, blue cheese &maple-roasted walnut saladServes 2
2 beetroots, peeled, cut into wedges
2 tsp balsamic vinegar,
plus extra to drizzle
2 tsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked3/4 cup (75g) walnuts
1 tbs maple syrup
75g mild blue cheese (such as
gorgonzola dolce), crumbled
Watercress, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a
large baking tray with foil. Place beetroot,
vinegar, oil and thyme in a bowl. Season,
then toss to coat. Place on baking tray
and roast for 50 minutes or until cooked
through. Cool completely on tray.
Meanwhile, line a separate baking tray
with baking paper. Toss walnuts in maple
syrup, then roast for 12 minutes or until
golden. Cool completely on tray.
Arrange watercress on a serving plate,
top with beetroot, maple-roasted walnuts
and cheese. Drizzle with a little extra
oil and balsamic, then serve.
cardamom panna cottawith rosewater syrupand pistachio pralineMakes 2
Begin this recipe a day ahead.
2/3 cup (165ml) thickened cream2/3 cup (165ml) milk1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
3 cardamom pods, bruised
1 titanium-strength gelatine leaf*(see Cook’s Notes)
Dried rose petals* (optional– see Cook’s Notes), to serve
Rosewater syrup1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
1 tsp rosewater* (see Cook’s Notes)
1-2 drops pink food colouring
Pistachio praline1/2 cup (75g) unsalted pistachio
kernels1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
Combine the cream, milk, sugar and
cardamom in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then
cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes for the
flavours to infuse. Remove from heat.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for
5 minutes to soften. Squeeze excess water
from gelatine, then stir into cream mixture
until melted and combined. Stand the
cream mixture for 10 minutes, then strain,
discarding solids. Divide mixture between
two 1 cup (250ml) serving glasses, then
cover and chill overnight to set.
For the syrup, combine sugar,
rosewater and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a
small saucepan over medium heat. Bring
to the boil, then reduce heat to low and
cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until sugar
dissolves. Swirl through food colouring.
Remove from heat and allow to cool
completely. Pour over panna cottas,
then chill for 1 hour or until syrup sets.
Meanwhile, for the praline, line a baking
tray with baking paper, then place the
pistachios in the centre. Combine sugar
and 2 tbs water in a small saucepan over
medium-low heat and stir until sugar
dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high,
bring to the boil, then cook, without
stirring, for 12 minutes or until golden.
Immediately pour over the pistachios,
then chill for 1 hour or until set.
Break the praline into shards, then
place in a small food processor and
pulse until crumbs. Sprinkle over the
panna cottas and top with rose petals,
if using, then serve. d.
Cook’s Note* ‘00’ is a super-fine Italian flour grade
used to make pasta, from gourmet
food shops; substitute plain flour.
* Gelatine leaves are available from
gourmet food shops and selected
supermarkets. Check the packet
for setting instructions.
* Dried rose petals and rosewater
add a floral note and are available
fromMiddle Eastern shops, delis
and selected gourmet food shops.
katie quinn davies.
Cardamom panna cotta
with rosewater syrup
and pistachio praline
74 delicious.
recipes,photography&stylin
gTheFood
depT.
Macadamia biscuit
ice cream sandwiches.
Opposite: homemade
lemonade ice pops.
Colourful, refreshing and packed with bright tropicalflavours, you’ll make these gorgeous desserts from
Sydney blog The Food Dept. all summer long.
wicked.
76 delicious.
passionfruit & whitechocolate eclairsMakes 16
2 cups (500ml) milk
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
3 eggs, lightly beaten,
plus 6 extra egg yolks1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
1 cup (150g) plain flour
60g unsalted butter
Pulp from 3 large passionfruit,
1 tbs strained passionfruit
juice (from 2 passionfruit)
1 cup (150g) icing sugar, sifted
200g white chocolate, melted
1 tbs light olive oil
To make the passionfruit custard, place
milk and vanilla pod and seeds in a
saucepan over low heat and bring to a
simmer. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and1/4 cup (35g) flour in a bowl and whisk until
light and creamy. Discard the vanilla pod
and gradually pour the hot milk mixture
into the egg mixture, whisking constantly
until combined. Return custard to the
saucepan over low heat and cook, whisking
constantly, for 8-10 minutes until thickened.
Transfer to a bowl, cover the surface with
plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming
and chill for 2-3 hours.
Preheat oven to 230°C. Place butter and3/4 cup (185ml) water in a saucepan over
medium heat until the butter has melted.
Bring to the boil. Add the remaining3/4 cup (110g) flour, stirring constantly with
a wooden spoon for 2-3 minutes until
the mixture forms a smooth ball. Set
dough aside to cool slightly.
Place dough in a large bowl, add beaten
egg, a little at a time, beating well with
electric beaters after each addition until
smooth. Spoon into a piping bag fitted
with a large star nozzle and pipe sixteen
8cm lengths onto a baking paper-lined
baking tray. Sprinkle eclairs with water and
bake for 7 minutes. Reduce oven to 180°C
and cook for a further 20-25 minutes until
golden. Pierce one short side of each eclair
with a skewer and set aside to dry and cool.
Remove custard from fridge, fold
through the passionfruit pulp and return
to fridge for 1 hour to set. Place custard in
a piping bag fitted with a plain 1cm nozzle.
Pipe custard into the holes in the eclairs.
To make the passionfruit icing, combine
the icing sugar and passionfruit juice
in a bowl and stir until smooth. Spoon into
a piping bag fitted with a fine nozzle and
set aside. Combine the white chocolate
and oil in a bowl, and stir until smooth.
Dip the top of each eclair into the white
chocolate and place on a sheet of baking
paper. Drizzle the passionfruit icing, back
and forth across the eclairs, then run a
bamboo skewer up and down the length
of the eclairs to create a marbling effect.
Allow the icing to set, then serve.
fruit skewers with gingersnapcrumbs and coconut creamServes 4
You can use any fruit – select varieties
with contrasting colours and flavours.
1/2 cup (125ml) thickened cream1/2 cup (125ml) coconut cream1/2 cup coconut sugar*
(see Cook's Notes, p 81)
125g gingersnap biscuits
1 each mango, kiwifruit and banana
2 star fruit
1 tamarillo or peach1/2 papaya1/2 small pineapple
Soak 12 wooden skewers in water for
15 minutes. Combine thickened cream,
coconut cream and 1 tsp coconut sugar
in a bowl and whisk until the cream has
thickened. Chill until ready to serve.
Whiz the biscuits in a food processor
until fine crumbs, then set aside until
ready to serve.
Slice the fruit into equal-sized pieces
and thread onto skewers. Place the
skewers on a baking tray lined with foil
and sprinkle the fruit with half the
remaining coconut sugar.
Using a blowtorch, brulee the fruit until
the sugar has melted and caramelised.
(Alternatively, place skewers under a hot
grill, turning, for 4 minutes or until
caramelised.) Sprinkle the remaining
coconut sugar over the fruit and brulee
again until a deep golden colour.
Serve skewers immediately with
coconut cream and gingersnap crumbs.
wicked.
Passionfruit & white
chocolate eclairs
78 delicious.
black sticky rice withchilli caramel mangoServes 6
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
11/2 cups (300g) black sticky rice*
(see Cook's Notes, p 81)
3 pandan leaves* (see Cook's Notes,
p 81), tied in a knot
1 cup (270g) finely grated dark palm
sugar, plus 2 tbs extra
3 large mangoes1/4 tsp dried chilli flakes
1 cup (250ml) coconut cream
Soak the rice in cold water overnight.
Drain and rinse under cold running
water until the water runs clear.
Combine the rice, 3 cups (370ml) water,
pandan leaves and a pinch of salt in a large
saucepan and bring to a simmer over low
heat. Simmer for 35 minutes or until the
water has been absorbed and the rice is
tender. Remove from the heat, cover and
leave to steam for a further 15 minutes.
Discard the pandan leaves.
Combine the palm sugar and 1/3 cup
(80ml) boiling water in a heatproof bowl
and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir
three quarters of the palm sugar syrup
through the rice, reserving the remaining
to serve. Cover the rice to keep warm.
Cut the cheeks from the mangoes and
sprinkle with chilli and extra palm sugar.
Drizzle the rice with coconut cream and
remaining palm sugar syrup, then serve
with mango cheeks.
wicked.
Fruit skewers with
gingersnap crumbs
and coconut cream
80 delicious.
macadamia biscuitice cream sandwichesMakes 10
125g unsalted butter,
at room temperature2/3 cup (150g) raw sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 egg3/4 cup (110g) plain flour1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
11/4 cups (110g) rolled oats
1 cup (150g) salted macadamia nuts,
coarsely chopped
Selection of store-bought flavoured
ice cream (we used coconut,
passionfruit and strawberry)
Preheat oven to 180ºC. Combine butter
and sugar in a bowl. Using electric
beaters, beat until thick and pale. Add
vanilla and egg, then beat until combined.
Sift together the flour and bicarbonate
of soda. Add the flour mixture, oats and
macadamia nuts to the creamed butter
and sugar, and stir to combine.
Line 2 baking tray with baking paper
and place tablespoonfuls of mixture on
the trays, flattening to 1/2 cm thick.
Bake for 15 minutes or until golden
and crisp. Allow to cool on trays.
To serve, sandwich the ice cream
between the biscuits. Serve immediately
or keep in the freezer.
homemade lemonade ice popsMakes 8
You will need eight 1/3 cup (80ml)
ice block moulds for this recipe.
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar1/2 cup (125ml) lemon juice
11/2 cups roughly chopped tropical fruit
(cut to fit your moulds – such as
papaya, pineapple, mango, star fruit,
lychee, kiwifruit and passionfruit)
Combine the sugar and 1 cup (250ml)
water in a saucepan over low heat, stirring
until the sugar has dissolved. Remove
from the heat and set aside to cool.
Once cooled, add the lemon juice.
Divide the fruit among the ice block
moulds, pressing the cut surfaces against
the sides. Pour over the homemade
lemonade, then cover and place in the
freezer for at least 6 hours or overnight
until frozen and set.
Remove the ice blocks from the
moulds to serve.
hummingbird cakewith tofee pecansServes 8-10
1kg pineapple, peeled
180g softened unsalted butter
11/4 cups (275g) raw caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 eggs
1 large ripe banana, mashed
1 cup (90g) shredded coconut2/3 cup (80g) pecans, roughly chopped
2 cups (300g) self-raising flour, sifted
1 tsp ground cinnamon
Cream cheese icing
2 x 250g packets softened cream cheese
80g softened unsalted butter
11/3 cups (200g) icing sugar
Toffee pecans
1 cup (220g) raw caster sugar
1 cup (140g) pecans
Preheat oven to 100°C. Cut 10 x 2mm-thick
slices from the pineapple. Arrange in a
single layer on a baking paper-lined baking
tray and bake for 1 hour. Turn slices over
and return to oven for a further 1 hour or
until pineapple is dry. Remove from oven
and transfer to a wire rack to cool.
Core the remaining piece of pineapple
and roughly chop. Use a food processor
to whiz the pineapple until just crushed.
You will need about 250g crushed
pineapple for the cake.
Grease and line two 20cm round cake
pans and increase the oven to 180ºC.
Using electric beaters, beat butter and
sugar together until combined. Add
the vanilla and eggs, 1 at a time, beating
well after each addition. Add the crushed
pineapple, banana, coconut and pecans,
then stir to combine. Add flour, cinnamon
and a pinch of salt, then stir to combine.
Divide the mixture between the cake
pans and bake for 35-40 minutes until
a skewer inserted into the centre comes
out clean. Allow cakes to stand in the
pans for 15 minutes to cool slightly, then
transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
To make the icing, place the cream
cheese, butter and half the icing sugar
in a bowl and beat with electric beaters
for 5 minutes. Add the remaining icing
sugar and beat for a further 3 minutes
or until light and fluffy. Chill until needed.
To make the toffee pecans, combine the
sugar with 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small
saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the
sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and cook,
without stirring, for 10 minutes or until
golden. Using a skewer, dip each pecan
into the toffee. Drain off excess toffee and
place the pecans on a baking paper-lined
baking tray and allow to set.
To assemble, secure one cake to a
serving plate with a little icing. Spread
1 cup icing on the cake, then top with the
second cake. Spread remaining icing over
the top and sides of the cake. Decorate
with dried pineapple and toffee pecans. d.
Visit: thefooddept.blogspot.com.
wicked.
Hummingbird cake
with toffee pecans
Cook's Note* Coconut sugar is extracted
from the bud of a coconut
palm and has a caramel
flavour. It's available from
supermarkets and health
food shops; substitute
brown sugar.
* Black sticky (glutinous rice)
and pandan leaves are
available from Asian grocers.
If you’re looking to start the new year on a lighter note, there’splenty of inspiration to be found online. Here’s our round-upof the best vegetarian and wholefood blogs out there – froma chic Scandi stylist to a creative Californian couple, thesebloggers are bringing healthy and exciting vego fare to the mix.
Point and shoot
Strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen
yoghurt (recipe p 88). Below (from left):
David Frenkiel and Luise Vindahl of
Green Kitchen Stories with daughter Elsa;
grilled haloumi and peaches with dukkah
(recipe p 86); Sarah Britton of My New Roots.
82 delicious.
Spiced millet pilaf
with beetroot,
feta and mint
hot blogs.
SPROUTED KITCHEN
This blog by Californian Sara Forte
and her photographer husband, Hugh,
documents their creative take on
wholefoods. Their beautifully styled
recipes make the most of seasonal
ingredients allowing the quality and
flavour of the produce to speak for
itself. Their book The Sprouted Kitchen:
A Tastier Take on Whole Foods (Random
House, $34.95) is a mostly vegetarian
journey into eating well and Sara and
Hugh’s love of sharing food with family
and friends. Visit: sproutedkitchen.com.
ranchero breakfast tostadasServes 4
8 small corn tortillas
Extra virgin olive oil, to brush
1 tbs coconut oil* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 88) or unsalted butter
8 eggs
1 cup (120g) grated cheddar
2 avocados, halved, thinly sliced1/3 cup (20g) chopped coriander
1 lime, cut into wedges
Hot sauce, to serve (optional)
Black bean mash
400g can black beans (frijoles),
rinsed, drained1/4 cup (60g) light sour cream
2 spring onions, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
For the black bean mash, place the
beans in a saucepan over low heat.
Add sour cream, spring onion, cumin,1/2 tsp salt, 1 tsp freshly ground black
pepper and 1/4 cup (60ml) water, then
coarsely mash with a fork until heated
through. Remove from heat and cover
to keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Brush the
tortillas with oil and place on a baking
paper-lined baking tray. Bake, turning
once, for 6-8 minutes until golden.
Place the coconut oil in a frypan over
medium heat. In 2 batches, crack the
eggs, 1 at a time, into the pan. Cook for
5 minutes for soft yolks or until cooked
to your liking.
To serve, top each tortilla with the
bean mash, a sprinkling of cheese,
1 egg, some avocado and coriander.
Serve 2 tostadas per person with lime
wedges and hot sauce, if using.
MY DARLING LEMON THYME
New Zealand-born, Perth-based
blogger Emma Galloway worked as a
chef for many years before becoming
a mother. Soon after, she discovered
that her family suffered from gluten and
lactose intolerances. With her foodie
know-how, she took on the challenge
of creating vegetarian, gluten-free
dishes for her family using fresh,
seasonal flavours that she shares with
the world through her sweetly named
blog. Visit: mydarlinglemonthyme.com
spiced millet pilaf withbeetroot, feta and mintServes 6
1 bunch baby beetroot,
leaves reserved1/4 cup (60g) ghee* (see Cook’s
Notes, p 88) or olive oil
2 tsp black mustard seeds
2 tsp yellow mustard seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
11/2 long green chillies,
finely chopped
3-4 curry leaves
1 tsp ground turmeric
11/2 cups (315g) hulled millet*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 88)1/2 cup (65g) cashew nuts, toasted,
roughly chopped
Coriander and mint leaves, feta
and lemon wedges, to serve
Mint & beetroot leaf pesto
Trimmed leaves from the baby
beetroots, washed
1 cup (60g) packed mint leaves1/2 cup (65g) cashew nuts, toasted1/2 long green chilli1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup (60ml) lemon juice
Place beetroots into a saucepan, cover
with water and bring to the boil over
high heat. Reduce heat to low and
simmer for 20-25 minutes until tender.
Remove from the heat, drain and set
aside until cool enough to handle.
Peel the beetroot and cut into pieces.
Place ghee in a large saucepan over
medium heat. Add the mustard and
cumin seeds. When the seeds start to
pop, add the onion and cook, stirring,
for 1-2 minutes until tender. Add the
garlic, chilli, curry leaves and turmeric,
then cook, stirring, for a further
30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in the
millet and 1/2 tsp salt, then cook, stirring,
for 1-2 minutes to toast the grains. Pour
in 3 cups (750ml) water (it will splatter,
so take care). Stir to combine and cover
with a lid. Bring to the boil, then reduce
heat to low and simmer, covered,
without stirring, for 20 minutes. Remove
from the heat, leave the lid on and set
aside for 5 minutes before fluffing up
the millet with a fork. Cover to keep
warm until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, place all the pesto
ingredients in a small food processor
and whiz until a smooth paste. Season.
To make the pesto thinner, simply add
a little more lemon juice and olive oil
until it’s the desired consistency. Set
aside until ready to serve.
Stir the cashews, coriander and
mint through the pilaf.
To serve, spoon pilaf onto plates, top
with beetroot, crumble over the feta
and drizzle with pesto. Serve with extra
lemon wedges to squeeze over.
84 delicious.
hot blogs.
Above (from left): spiced
millet pilaf with beetroot,
feta and mint; Emma
Galloway of My Darling
Lemon Thyme. Below
(from left): Sara and
Hugh Forte of
Sprouted Kitchen;
ranchero breakfast
tostadas.
My new roots
Canadian Sarah Britton trained as a
nutritionist and chef, so it’s no wonder
that holistic, vegetarian cooking that
appeals to omnivores is the focus for
this self-confessed “wholefood lover”.
She lives in Copenhagen, Denmark, with
her husband and new baby where she
also finds the time to work on her first
cookbook. Stay tuned for more recipes
for busy mums. Visit: mynewroots.org.
grilled haloumi andpeaches with dukkahServes 4 as a starter
4 ripe peaches, cut into wedges
350g haloumi, cut into cubes
2 tbs maple syrup
Lemon juice and olive oil, to serve1/2 small bunch mint leaves, shredded
Dukkah
11/2 tbs cumin seeds
1 tbs coriander seeds
1 tbs whole black peppercorns
1 cup (150g) hazelnuts, toasted,
skins removed1/2 cup (75g) sesame seeds, toasted
Soak 20 wooden skewers in cold water
for 1 hour. Drain.
To make the dukkah, place the cumin
and coriander seeds in a dry frypan over
medium heat and cook, stirring, for
2 minutes or until fragrant. Place in
a mortar and pestle with peppercorns
and grind until fine. Place hazelnuts and
sesame seeds in a small food processor
and pulse to roughly chop. Transfer to a
large bowl with the spices and 1 tsp salt,
then stir to combine.
To make the skewers, preheat a
barbecue or chargrill on medium-high.
Alternately thread the peaches and
haloumi onto the skewers, then cook,
turning, for 5-6 minutes until the
peaches have charred slightly and the
cheese has browned. Transfer to a
serving platter. Drizzle with maple
syrup, a squeeze of lemon juice and
a little olive oil, then top with mint
and sprinkle with dukkah.
Love and LeMons
Texan couple Jeanine Donofrio and
Jack Mathews are the creative minds
behind this blog. Jeanine, graphic
designer and “lemon-obsessed foodie”,
creates the colourful recipes, while Jack,
a self-declared cheese lover, is the
“website tech-guy”. Together they aim
to excite readers about how to make
vegetable-centric, healthy food taste
amazing. Many of their recipes are food
allergy-friendly with options for vegan or
gluten-free. Visit: loveandlemons.com.
zucchini & coconut noodlesServes 2
2 roma tomatoes, halved,
seeds removed, chopped
2 cups (70g) baby spinach leaves
1 cup (35g) basil leaves
3 zucchinis, thinly sliced (using a
mandoline), cut into long, thin strips
1 cup (35g) coriander leaves
Crushed roasted peanuts, to serve
Sriracha sauce* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 88), to serve
Coconut broth
1 tbs coconut oil*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 81)
3 spring onions, finely chopped,
plus extra to serve
1 tsp finely grated ginger
1 long red chilli, finely chopped
2 kaffir lime leaves
1 lemongrass stalk (inner core only),
bruised
1 can (400ml) coconut milk
2 tsp tamari
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Pinch coconut sugar or brown sugar
To make broth, place the coconut oil
in a saucepan over low heat. Add the
spring onion, ginger, chilli, kaffir lime
leaves and lemongrass, then cook for
1 minute. Add coconut milk and tamari,
then simmer, stirring occasionally, for
20 minutes for flavours to infuse. Add
lime zest and juice, and sugar to taste.
Add the tomato, spinach and basil
to the broth, then stir until just wilted.
Remove broth from heat, discard
lemongrass, then add zucchini. Serve
immediately topped with coriander
and peanuts, and sriracha on the side.
86 delicious.
hot blogs.
Cutting down on carbs? Replace regular rice
stick noodles with this lighter zucchini
variety and serve in a fragrant coconut broth.
Clockwise from top left: Jeanine Donofrio of Love and
Lemons; zucchini & coconut noodles; grilled haloumi
and peaches with dukkah; Sarah of My New Roots.
88 delicious.
hot blogs.
scandi Home
Maria Laitinen – the blogger and stylist
behind Scandi Home – was born in
Finland and moved to Sydney in 2005.
She is passionate about Scandinavian
cuisine and design, and her style
is heavily influenced by her Nordic
background. As well as travel stories
and Scandi-chic inspiration for your
home, you’ll find wholesome recipes
and many healthy baking ideas.
Visit: scandifoodie.blogspot.com.
chocolate & ricottacups with walnut crustMakes 10
You will need a silicone mini-muffin
mould, from kitchenware shops.
1 cup (100g) walnuts
1 tbs almond meal
1 egg, plus 1 eggwhite
50g dark chocolate
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbs honey
100g ricotta
Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
Icing sugar, to serve
Preheat the oven to 170ºC.
Place the walnuts in a food processor
and whiz until they resemble coarse
breadcrumbs. Add the almond meal
and eggwhite, then pulse 2-3 times
to combine. Take tablespoonfuls
mixture and press into the bases and
sides of ten 11/2 tbs (30ml) capacity
silicone mini-muffin moulds.
To make the filling, place the
chocolate, vanilla and honey in a
heatproof bowl set over a saucepan
of simmering water (don’t let the bowl
touch the water) and stir until melted
and combined, then set aside to cool.
Combine ricotta, egg, cooled
chocolate mixture and half the orange
zest in a bowl, then stir until smooth.
Spoon the filling into the walnut cups.
Bake for 20 minutes or until puffed
and just set, then transfer to a wire rack
to cool. Dust with icing sugar and top
with remaining orange zest to serve.
GReen KiTcHen sToRies
Health-conscious Swedes David
and Luise are the co-creators of
this beautifully photographed,
award-winning blog. Be inspired by
the vegetarian food they create in
their idyllic Stockholm home, including
child-friendly dishes for daughter Elsa.
Green Kitchen Stories is an intimate
glimpse into the way this young family
live, eat and entertain, and with their
book, The Green Kitchen (Hardie Grant,
$49.95), and two apps, one focusing
on healthy desserts, David and Luise
are successfully spreading the green
message. Visit: greenkitchenstories.com.
strawberry & rhubarbripple frozen yoghurtMakes about 1L
2 cups (220g) chopped rhubarb
2 x 250g punnets strawberries,
coarsely chopped
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped1/2 cup (180g) honey
2 cups (560g) Greek-style yoghurt
Place the rhubarb, strawberry, vanilla
pod and seeds, and 1/3 cup (120g)
honey in a saucepan. Cover and bring
to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and
simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the
vanilla pod and use a fork to mash the
fruit to a puree. Place in the fridge for
1 hour to chill.
Combine the yoghurt, the remaining
60g honey and three-quarters of the
fruit puree in a large bowl. Pour the
yoghurt mixture into an ice-cream
machine and churn according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
(Alternatively, pour mixture into a
shallow container and freeze for 2
hours or until frozen at edges. Remove
and beat with electric beaters. Return
to container and refreeze. Repeat 2 or
3 times.) Swirl through the rest of the
fruit puree so you get a ripple effect.
Pour the frozen yoghurt into a
container and freeze for 3 hours.
Place frozen yoghurt in the fridge
20 minutes before serving to allow
it to soften to scooping consistency. d.
Cook’s Note* Coconut oil is extracted from the
kernel of matured coconuts. It’s
available from health food shops
and selected supermarkets.
* Ghee (clarified butter) is from
supermarkets; substitute olive oil.
* Hulled millet is a gluten-free grain
available from health food shops
and selected supermarkets.
* Sriracha is a hot Thai chilli sauce
available from Asian food shops;
substitute sweet chilli sauce.
Nutty chocolate ricotta cups and a tart fruit-laced
frozen yoghurt make ideal gluten-free desserts.
From top: Maria Laitinen of Scandi Home;
chocolate & ricotta cups with walnut crust;
David and Luise of Green Kitchen Stories;
strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen yoghurt.
90 delicious.
We grilled Colin Holt, chef and co-ownerof Hudson Meats in Sydney and Melbourne,to find out how the experts throw theperfect summer barbecue.
do thechar char
guest chef.
Slow-cooked oyster blade
steak with tomato relish
92 delicious.
skirt steak withchargrilled vegetablesServes 4
6 echalots, finely chopped
300ml verjuice* (see Cook’s Notes, p 95)1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar
1 thyme sprig
1L (4 cups) veal stock* (see Cook’s
Notes, p 95) or beef stock1/2 cup (80g) sultanas
2 x 500g skirt steaks
Olive oil, to brush
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve
Chargrilled vegetables
4 zucchinis, sliced lengthways
2 red capsicums,
sliced lengthways
1 red onion, cut into wedges
Olive oil, to brush
Combine the eschalot, verjuice, white
wine vinegar and thyme in a saucepan
over medium-high heat. Season with
freshly ground black pepper, then cook,
skimming any impurities from the surface,
for 15-20 minutes until slightly reduced.
Add the stock and cook for a further
15 minutes or until thickened and reduced
by half. Add sultanas, then remove the
pan from the heat. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, preheat a barbecue or
chargrill pan to medium-high. Brush
steaks with oil and season. Chargrill,
turning, for 8 minutes for medium-rare
or until cooked to your liking. Rest,
loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes.
Brush vegetables with oil and season.
Chargrill, turning, for 5 minutes or until
charred and cooked through.
Thinly slice steaks and serve with
vegetables, parsley and eschalot sauce.
slow-cooked oyster bladesteak with tomato relishServes 6-8
1 tbs smoked paprika (pimenton)
2 tbs brown sugar
1 tsp cayenne pepper1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1.5kg oyster blade steak, trimmed1/2 cup (125ml) red wine
1L (4 cups) beef stock
Roast potatoes and watercress
sprigs, to serve
Tomato relish1/2 cup (125ml) tomato sauce (ketchup)
400g can chopped tomatoes1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar
2 tbs white wine vinegar
2 tbs Worcestershire sauce
Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange
1 tbs Tabasco sauce
Preheat the oven to 130°C and preheat
a barbecue or chargrill pan to high.
Combine paprika, sugar, cayenne
pepper and oil in a bowl. Season, then
add oyster blade steak and turn to coat.
Chargrill, turning, for 6-7 minutes until
charred and browned. Transfer to a
roasting pan over medium heat. Add the
wine and stock. Bring to a simmer, then
cover with baking paper and foil. Roast,
turning after 2 hours, for 4 hours or until
tender. Remove from pan and rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
For the tomato relish, place all the
ingredients and 1/2 cup (125ml) cooking
liquid from the meat in a saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to the boil and cook,
stirring, for 10 minutes or until reduced
and thickened.
Slice steak and serve with roast
potatoes, watercress and tomato relish.
Colin Holt of Hudson Meats.
Opposite: skirt steak with
chargrilled vegetables.
ReCiPeSCOlin
HOlT
LoCATio
nPhoTogRAPhyPaulRaeSid
e/livin
geTC/iPC+SyndiCaTiO
nPoRTRAiT
&Food
PhoTogRAPhyvaneSSa
leviS
STyLing
BeRniSMiTHieS
guest chef.
“lamb is a rich meat,so a little lemon zest
or juice helps balanceout the favours.”
Barbecued
lamb racks
guest chef.
delicious. 95
barbecued lamb racksServes 4
You will need a lidded barbecue
for this recipe.
2 tbs truffle oil*(see Cook’s Notes)
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 cup (250ml) olive oil, plus extra
to brush
1 tbs sweet paprika
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons,
plus wedges to serve
4 x 375g forequarter lamb racks*(see Cook’s Notes), trimmed
1 bunch asparagus
250g punnet vine-ripened cherry
tomatoes
To make the marinade, combine truffle oil,
parsley, olive oil, paprika and lemon zest
in a bowl. Season lamb, then add and turn
to coat. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours
or overnight to marinate.
Preheat a barbecue (with a lid) or
chargrill pan to medium heat. Drain lamb,
then grill, with the lid closed, turning, for
20 minutes for medium or until cooked
to your liking. Remove and rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
Brush asparagus and tomatoes with
oil, season, then grill over medium heat
for 4 minutes or until slightly charred.
Slice lamb racks, then serve with
asparagus, tomatoes and lemon wedges.
toulouse sausageswith frisee saladServes 4-6
You will need 4 long metal
skewers for this recipe.
2 x 500g spiral Toulouse sausages*(see Cook’s Notes)
Olive oil, to brush
1 frisee (curly endive), roughly torn1/2 bunch spring onions,
thinly sliced on an angle
2 soft-boiled eggs, halved
Chargrilled sourdough, to serve
Mustard vinaigrette
1 tbs wholegrain Dijon mustard1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
1 tbs verjuice* (see Cook’s Notes)
or white wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, crushed
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to
medium-high heat. Using 2 metal skewers
for each sausage spiral, spear them on the
diagonal to hold them in place. Brush with
oil, then cook for 5 minutes each side
or until charred and cooked through.
For the vinaigrette, whisk all ingredients
with 1 tbs warm water in a bowl. Season
to taste and set aside.
Place the frisee and spring onion in
a bowl, then toss to combine. Top with
egg and drizzle over the vinaigrette.
Serve sausages with frisee salad and
chargrilled sourdough.
Cook’s Note* Verjuice (unripe grape juice, used
in similar ways to lemon juice or
vinegar), veal stock (substitute beef
stock) and trufe oil (substitute extra
virgin olive oil) are all available from
gourmet food shops and delis.
* Toulouse sausages are available
from selected butchers, or ask your
butcher to unlink sausages and form
a coil; substitute pork sausages.
* Forequarter lamb racks are
available from butchers; substitute
French-trimmed lamb racks.
* Spatchcocks are young chickens,
available from selected butchers and
specialty poultry shops. To butterfly
spatchcocks, cut out backbones using
poultry scissors, then flatten birds
with the palm of your hand. Or ask
your butcher to butterfly them.
Toulouse
sausages with
frisee salad
guest chef.
96 delicious.
spatchcock with tarragon& garlic butterServes 4
You will need a lidded barbecue and
8 long metal skewers for this recipe.
3 garlic cloves, crushed
250g softened unsalted butter
1 bunch tarragon,
leaves chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
4 x 500g spatchcocks, butterflied*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 95)
Olive oil, to brush
Green bean, olive and fennel salad
(recipe follows), to serve
Combine the garlic and butter in
a small food processor and whiz
to a paste. Add the tarragon and
lemon juice, then season and pulse
a few times to combine.
Carefully run your hand under the
skin of the spatchcock breast and thighs
to separate the skin from the flesh, being
careful not to tear the skin. Rub the
tarragon and garlic butter into the breast
and thigh meat, under the skin. Using
2 skewers for each spatchcock, spear each
bird on the diagonal from the wing to the
opposite thigh, to ensure the birds hold
their shape during cooking. Rub any
leftover butter over the spatchcock skin.
Preheat a barbecue (with a lid)
to medium-high heat. Brush each
spatchcock with olive oil and place,
skin-side down, on the grill. Barbecue for
5 minutes or until the skin is golden. Turn,
being careful not to break the skin, then
reduce the heat to medium. Close lid
and cook for a further 20 minutes or until
cooked through. (To test if spatchcocks
are cooked through, the juices should run
clear when the thickest part of the thigh
is pierced with a skewer.) Remove from
the heat and rest, loosely covered with
foil, for 10 minutes.
Remove skewers from spatchcocks
then serve with the green bean, olive
and fennel salad.
green bean, olive& fennel saladServes 4 as a side
500g green beans, trimmed1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs red wine vinegar
1 packet flatbread crisps
(we used Lavosh crackers)
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
(using a mandoline)
200g Ligurian olives or other
small black olives1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley,
leaves picked
Cook the beans in a saucepan of boiling
salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and
refresh in a bowl of iced water.
Whisk the olive oil and vinegar together
in a bowl. Season, then set aside.
Break the flatbread into small pieces,
then combine in a bowl with the fennel,
olives, parsley and drained beans.
Drizzle dressing over the salad, then
gently toss to combine. Serve salad with
the spatchcocks. d.
Colin’s barbeCue tipsThe chef of Sydney’s former
2-hatted Bistro Pave, co-owner of
Hudson Meats (visit: hudsonmeats.
com.au) – now with stores in
Sydney and Melbourne – and
delicious. Produce Awards expert
panellist shares his barbecue tips.
* Generally try to barbecue on
medium-high heat, around 190°C.
too low a temperature and the
meat will stew, too high, and
it will burn. always allow the
barbecue to preheat before using.
* bring meat to room temperature
before cooking, this allows the
meat to cook evenly.
* Don’t play with your meat! turning
meat constantly means that you
are taking it on and off the heat
and leads to an uneven cook. i turn
my steak no more than three times.
* Don’t be tempted to cut into steak
to check if it’s done, as you will lose
precious juices that make the meat
tender when resting. instead, press
the centre of the steak; it should
spring back for medium-rare.
* rest cooked meat, as this allows
the muscle fibres to relax and the
meat to maintain moisture and
flavour. rest prime cuts, such as
t-bone, sirloin and scotch fillet,
for 10 minutes. larger cuts need
a longer resting time. rest meat
in a warm spot on the side of the
barbecue or in a low oven.
“try a variety of beef cuts, such asbrisket, skirt and oyster blade steak,for different textures and favours.”
Spatchcock with tarragon
& garlic butter; green
bean, olive & fennel salad.
delicious.FEBRUARY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIA‘S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE
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Jamie’s outdoor cooking special and Fresh asian-inspired salads
ROASTED FRUIT
101
RecipesJamie
Oliver
StylingGinnyRolfe
Photo
graphyDavid
Loftus
If you have an outdoorwoodfired oven, it's time
to think beyond pizzas! To get you started, Jamie
shares some brilliant ideas for feasts cooked alfresco
that you can alsomake in a regular oven.
funi theovn
jamie’s diary
102
Woodfired ovens havebecome fashionable,but you may wonderwhat it is aboutthem that’s so
enticing?Tat’s easy – first up, theylook amazing. Secondly, there’ssomething hypnotising aboutwatching the open flames, withwhatever you’re cooking tickingaway in the background.Tey alsohave a really dry heat, so you getan incredible rendering of fat andcrisping of skin onmeat that’s hardto recreate elsewhere. And lastly, youget that subtle, invisible seasoningfrom the wood that you’re burningand, of course, the smoke.When you think about it, it was
only 60-odd years ago when thewhole scenario of a modern ovenbecame available. For thousandsof years, us humans have cookedover fire in one way, shape or form;
I’m sure that’s why people areoften mesmerised by fires, orget excited and light a barbecueas soon as the sun comes out.It’s a primal instinct.Here are my tips for creating the
perfect woodfired oven. Start yourfire early and wait for flames to diedown and hot coals to form beforeyou start cooking. Regulate the heatby having a small fire burning tokeep the coals glowing, as these areyour main heat source in the oven.Larger pieces of wood will result inlarger coals to maintain even heat,but don't feed the fire too much asthe temperature of the oven cansoar. Invest in some heatproof tools,such as pizza shovels or pan hookslong enough to reach into the oven.Be careful when reaching for itemsand keep your eye on the food inside.It takes some time to get going,but the result is worth the wait.
Roasted gRapeswith cheeseServes 8 as a starter
• 1kg black grapes (on the vine)
• 1 tbs caster sugar
• 2-3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Splash of redwine vinegar
• 75g creme fraiche or sour cream
• 50g cheddar, roughly chopped
• 250g camembert or brie
• 1 bunch sage, leaves picked
• Fresh bread andwalnuts, to serve
1When the temperature on your
woodfired oven has reached roughly
220°C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220°C.)
2Place the grapes in a large roasting
pan, sprinklewith sugar and thyme,
and drizzlewith oil and vinegar.
Roast for 5–10minutes, keeping
an eye on them and turningwhen
necessary, until the grapes are just
starting to catch and burst open.
3Remove the tray from the oven and
spoon over dollops of creme fraiche,
scatter over the cheddar chunks, then
tear up the camembert and nestle the
pieces among the grapes.
4Drizzle the sage leaveswith olive
oil and scatter over the top. Return
the dish to the oven for 5minutes
or until the cheese just starts tomelt.
5 Serve in themiddle of the tablewith
bread and a bowl ofwalnuts.
Grilled cucumberSWiTH almond creamServes 4–6 as a side
• 3 telegraph or 8 Lebanese cucumbers
• Olive oil
• 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds
• 4 spring onions
• ½small bunch flat-leaf parsley
• ½small bunchmint
• 1 lemon
Almond cream
• ⅓cup (55g) blanched almonds
• 400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
• 2 tsp tahini
• ½tsp honey
• Seeds of 1 vanilla pod
• Milk, to loosen
1When the temperature on your
woodfired oven has reached roughly
220°C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220°C.)
2 Gently bash cucumberswith a rolling
pin so they split slightly, then pop in a
roasting pan, drizzlewith oil and
season. Roast for 15minutes or until
starting to char, adding the cumin seeds
to the pan for the final 3minutes.
3 Tip the contents of the roasting pan
onto a board and roughly chop the
cucumbers into different-sized chunks.
Finely slice the spring onions, parsley
andmint. Add everything to a bowl and
dresswith a squeeze of lemon juice.
4 For the almond cream,whiz nuts in a
foodprocessorwith chickpeas, tahini,
honey and vanilla seeds until smooth.
Add a splash ofmilk to loosen, if needed.
5To serve, spoon the almond cream
onto a serving plate, topwith the
cucumbermixture and drizzlewith
the lemon dressing from the bowl.
GRILLED CUCUMBERS
wIth ALMOND CREAM
ROAStED GRAPESwIth ChEESE
EGGPLANT AL FORNO. OPPOsiTE:
bAkEd-bLAckbERRy bELLiNi.
105
CAPTAIN CAVEMAN CHOPS
107
Baked-BlackBerry BelliniMakes 6
• 200g blackberries
• 2 tbs caster sugar
• 750ml bottle prosecco
or Champagne
1When the temperature on your
woodfired oven has reached roughly
200°C (checkwith your thermometer)
and the smoke and flames have died
down, start cooking. (Alternatively,
preheat your regular oven to 200°C.)
2 Tip blackberries into a snug-fitting
roasting dish and scatter over the
sugar. Roast for 10minutes or until
the berries start to soften and burst.
Remove from oven and leave to cool.
3Whiz the roasted blackberries in
a blender or squash themwith a fork
until smooth, then pass through a sieve.
Pop in the fridge until chilled.
4 Evenly distribute the chilled fruit
puree among 6 Champagne glasses
and top upwith your favourite bubbles.
eggplant al fornoThis Sicilian-inspired dish
is a lovely alternative
to cheesy parmigiana.
Serves 4 as a side
• 3 eggplants, cut into 1cm slices
• Extra virgin olive oil
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon,
plus an extra pinch
• 4 spring onions,
finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• Handful vine-ripened
cherry tomatoes
• Redwine vinegar, to drizzle
• ⅔ cup (50g) fresh breadcrumbs
• ⅓ cup (50g) pine nuts
• 2 tbs raisins
1When the temperature on your
woodfired oven has reached roughly
220°C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220°C.)
2 Place the eggplant slices in a baking
dish. Brush lightlywith oil, then sprinkle
over the cinnamon and seasonwith salt
and pepper. Cook for 15–20minutes,
adding the spring onion, garlic and
cherry tomato after 10minutes.
Once the eggplant and tomatoes
have all softened and charred,
add a splash of vinegar to the pan.
3 In a bowl combine the breadcrumbs,
pine nuts, raisins, a pinch of cinnamon
and a drizzle of oil, then seasonwell.
Sprinkle over the auberginemixture
and cook for a further 5–10minutes
until crispy and golden, then serve.
captain caveMan chopsServes 4-6
• 12 x 100g lamb cutlets (not
French-trimmed)with long bones
• Olive oil, to drizzle
• ⅓ cup (55g) pitted prunes
• ¼ cup (55g) dried apricots
• ¼ cup (60ml) redwine vinegar
• 2-3mint sprigs
Gremolata
• Small bunch flat-leaf parsley
• Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
• Finely grated zest of 1 orange
• 1 small garlic clove
• 250g crackedwheat (burghul)
1When the temperature on your
woodfired oven has reached roughly
220°C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220°C.) Preheat
a large roasting pan.
2Using a sharp knife, carefully score
crosses into the fat of the cutlets, then
season and drizzlewith oil. Transfer the
lamb to your preheated roasting pan
and cook for 10–15minutes until golden
and cooked. Transfer to a plate and
rest, coveredwith foil, for 5minutes.
3Meanwhile, place the prunes and
apricots on an oven tray and roast
for 5minutes or until softened. Add
to a bowlwith the vinegar and leave
to soak for 5minutes to plump up.
4Whiz the soaked fruit with themint
in a blender, adding a splash ofwater
to loosen, if needed. Set aside.
5 For the gremolata, finely chop the
parsley on a board alongwith the citrus
zests and garlic. Set aside.
6 Cook the crackedwheat according
to packet instructions. Dresswith a
little olive oil and the juice of 1 lemon.
7 Pile the crackedwheat onto a large
serving platter, then stack the chops
on top. Scatter over the gremolata and
servewith the prune and apricot sauce
to drizzle over.
roasted fruitServe this as it is with ice cream,
or turn it into a crumble.
Serves 8
• 1kg stone fruit (such as plums,
peaches, apricots and nectarines),
halved, stones removed
• 2 pears
• 2 apples
• 200g frozen blackberries
• Splash of brandy (optional)
• ¼ cup (55g) caster sugar
• 1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked
• 1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped
• Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 orange
• Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
• 2 bay leaves
• Vanilla ice cream, to serve
Crumble topping (optional)
• 120g plain flour
• 60g chilled unsalted butter
• ⅓ cup (50g) hazelnuts, chopped
• 2 tbs raw sugar
• Handful of oats
1When the temperature on your
woodfired oven has reached roughly
200°C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 200°C.)
2Place the stone fruit, pears and apples
in a shallow roasting panwith berries.
Drizzle over brandy, if using, and sprinkle
over sugar, rosemary and vanilla seeds.
Scatter over citrus zest and squeeze
over the juice, then add the bay leaves.
3Toss to coat, then spread everything
out into an even layer. Roast for
5minutes (or 20–25minutes in
a regular oven), until the fruit is
soft but still keeps its shape.
4 If you’remaking the crumble topping,
rub the flour and butter together in a
bowl until it resembles breadcrumbs.
Mix in the nuts, sugar and oats, then
sprinkle over the fruit. Bake for
5minutes (10–15minutes in
a regular oven), until golden.
5 Serve the fruit crumblewith
scoops of ice cream.
108
RecipesJossHerd
Photo
graphyJonath
anGre
gson
VIETNAMESE cHArGrIllEd
EGGplANT SAlAd
(rEcIpE p 114)
JAPANESE GRILLED SALMON
&SEAWEED SALAD (REcIPE P 1144
It
MIX
Now is the time for light, bright and
super-fresh salads – cue these gorgeous
Asian-inspired recipes, from Japanese
salmon and seaweed salad to golden
Vietnamese chickenwithmint.
110
Rojak with pRawnsHot, salty, sour and sweet, this
Malaysian/Singaporean salad packs
a real punch. Tomake thiswork for
vegetarians, simply replace the
prawnswith crispy fried tofu and
omit the shrimp paste.
Serves 2
• 1 tbs sesame seeds
• ¼ cup (35g) roasted salted peanuts
• 1 green apple, thinly sliced
• 1 small firmmango, thinly sliced
• ¼pineapple, sliced intowedges
• ½ cucumber, peeled,
seeds removed, thinly sliced
• 6 thin baguette slices, toasted
• Juice of 2 limes
• 150g cooked, peeled prawns, halved
Dressing
• 3 tbs grated palm sugar*
or brown sugar
• ¼ cup (60ml) kecapmanis*
• 2 tbs sambal oelek*
• 2 tbs tamarind paste
• ½ tsp shrimp paste*
1 For the dressing, place all ingredients
in a small saucepan overmediumheat,
stirring until the sugar has dissolved.
Remove fromheat and set aside to cool.
2Toast the sesame seeds in a small, dry
frypan over low heat for 3–5minutes
until golden. Add to amortar and pestle
with the peanuts and pound until
coarse. Set aside.
3Add the apple, mango, pineapple,
cucumber and baguette to a large bowl
and squeeze over the limes. Add the
prawns and dressing, then toss to coat.
4Divide between 2 serving dishes
and scatter with the peanut topping.
Serve immediately.
*Kecapmanis (sweet Indonesian soy
sauce), sambal oelek (Malaysian chilli
paste) and shrimp paste are all available
fromAsian food shops.
Vietnamese chickensaLaD (Goi Ga)This chicken and cabbage salad is a
Vietnamese classic. Allow asmuch
time as you can tomarinate your
chicken formaximum flavour.
Serves 4
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tbs fish sauce
• 1½ tsp caster sugar
• 4 chicken thigh fillets,
cut into 2cm pieces
• 2 red (Asian) eschalots
• 2 cups (500ml) peanut oil
• Small cube of bread (to test the oil)
• 1 tbs honey
Dressing
• 1 tbs fish sauce
• 2 tbs rice vinegar
• 1 tbs caster sugar
• 1-2 small red chillies, finely chopped
• 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
• Juice of 1-2 limes
Salad
• 1 tbs jasmine rice
• 200gwhite cabbage, shredded
• 2 large carrots, shredded
• 10 shiso leaves*
• Handful mint leaves
1Place the garlic, fish sauce and sugar
in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the
chicken andmarinate for at least 1 hour.
2Thinly slice the eschalot and rinse
under coldwater, then patwith paper
towel. Set aside to dry.
3Meanwhile, heat oil in a saucepan over
medium-high heat. Drop in a cube of
bread, if it browns in 10 seconds, the oil
is hot enough. Carefully lower eschalot
into oil, in batches, and fry for 2minutes
or until golden and crisp. Removewith a
slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
4 For the dressing, place the fish sauce,
rice vinegar and sugar in a small pan
overmediumheat, bring to a simmer
and stir until the sugar has dissolved.
Add chilli, garlic and lime juice, then
transfer to a bowl to cool.
5 Stir-fry the chicken in a drywok
overmedium-high heat, tossing, until
cooked and golden. Transfer to a bowl,
drizzlewith honey and keepwarm.
6Toast the rice for the salad in a dry
frypan overmediumheat until golden,
then grind to a coarse powder in a
mortar and pestle.
7Toss the remaining salad ingredients
in a bowlwith the dressing, topwith the
chicken and toss gently. Add the ground
rojAkwiTH
PrAwnS
vietnamese CHiCKen
saLaD (goi ga)
prawn&nOODLE
SaLaDwITH SwEET
CHILLI SaUCE
113
toasted rice and toss gently again.
Serve immediately, toppedwith the
crispy eschalot.
*Shiso, also known as Japanese basil,
looks like a large nettle leaf. It’s related
tomint and has a pungent, grassy
flavour. You should be able to find it
at your local Asian grocer but if not,
substitutewithmint leaves.
Prawn & noodle saladwith sweet chilli sauceThis recipe uses rice noodles in stick
form,which just need to be soaked
briefly, but you can use any type of
rice noodles you like. The balance of
sweetmango, creamy avocado and
spicy chilli makes this a brilliantly
fresh, pick-me-up dish.
Serves 2
• 100g packet 3mm rice stick noodles
• 1 small mango, chopped
• 1 avocado, chopped
• 100g cooked, peeled prawns
or shrimps
• 1 bunch coriander cress* or coriander,
leaves picked
Sweet chilli sauce
• 50g caster sugar
• 50ml ricewine vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
• 2–3 long red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
• 1-2 small red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1 For the sweet chilli sauce, pour the
sugar, vinegar and⅓ cup (80ml) water
into a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer
overmedium-low heat, stirring until the
sugar dissolves, then add the garlic and
chilli. Simmer for 15minutes or until the
sauce is reduced and syrupy. Set aside
to cool completely.
2 Soak the noodles according to the
packet instructions. Drain thoroughly
and toss in¼ cup (75g) cooled sweet
chilli sauce, adding a little extra
to coat all the noodles, if necessary.
3Add themango, avocado and prawns
to the noodles and toss gently to
combine, then add the coriander.
Serve immediately.
*Coriander cress is amicro herbwith
a strong citrus and pepper flavour,
available from selected greengrocers
and farmers' markets.
crisPy basil salad withPork & Pickled carrotsA fusion of Thai and Chinese, this
salad is packedwith great zingy
flavours. To save time,make the
pickled carrots in advance and
refrigerate until needed.
Serves 2
• 2 cups (500ml) peanut oil
• 300g porkmince
• Pinch groundwhite or black pepper
• 3 spring onions, finely chopped,
reserving one to serve
• 1 tbs red Thai curry paste
• 300ml chicken stock
• Small cube of bread (to test the oil)
• 1 bunch holy basil*,
leaves picked
• 1 iceberg lettuce, leaves separated
Pickled carrots
• 200ml rice vinegar
• 100g caster sugar
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 star anise
• 2 carrots, thinly sliced
(using amandoline)
1Tomake the pickled carrots, add the
rice vinegar to a saucepan over a
mediumheatwith the sugar, fennel
seeds, star anise and 1 tsp sea salt.
Bring to a simmer and stir until the
sugar has dissolved. Remove from the
heat, tip in the carrots and stir to coat.
Leave to cool completely, then pickle
for at least 30minutes.
2Heat 1 tbs peanut oil in awok until
smoking hot. Add the pork, season
with thewhite pepper and a pinch
of salt, then stir-fry until golden
and starting to crisp.
3Add 2 chopped spring onions and the
red Thai curry paste, and cook for a
further 1minute. Pour in the stock,
and reduce the heat, then cook for a
further 20minutes or until the stock
CriSPy bASil SAlAd
wiThPork&PiCkled
CArroTS
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has evaporated and the pork is tender,
cooked and starting to crisp up again.
4heat the remaining peanut oil in
a separate saucepan. Add the cube
of bread, if it browns in 10 seconds,
your oil is hot enough to start frying.
In batches, fry the basil leaves for
3 seconds or until they’re translucent
and crisp (careful of the hot oil, as it may
spit). Remove the crispy leaveswith a
slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
5To serve, place the lettuce leaves on
a serving plate, scatter over the pork,
pickled carrots, reserved spring onion
and the crispy basil leaves. Drizzlewith
a little of the carrot pickling liquid and
serve immediately.
*Holy basil is a spicy herb similar
to bothmint and basil, it's available
fromAsian and selected grocers;
substitute regular basil.
Japanese grilled salmon& seaweed saladThemagic ingredient in this dish
is togarashi seasoning, amixof chilli,
orangepeel, ginger, sesameseeds,
Szechuanpepper andseaweed.
It adds ‘wow’ factor to salmon.
Serves 4
• 500g skinless salmon fillet,
pin-boned
• 2 tbs soy sauce
• 2 tbs honey
• 1 tbs togarashi seasoning*
• Juice of 1 lime
• 1 tbs black sesame seeds*
• 20g dried seaweed salad (wakame)*,
shredded
• 4 spring onions, shredded
• 1 cos lettuce, roughly torn
Dressing
• Finely grated zest of 2 limes,
plus juice of 1 lime
• Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 orange
• 3cmpiece ginger, grated
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tbs soy sauce
• 1 tbs sesame oil
1 Preheat the grill to high and line
a shallow baking dishwith foil. Place
the salmon, skin-side down, in the dish,
spoon over the soy and honey, and
sprinklewith togarashi seasoning.
2Grill for 15–18minutes until dark,
sticky and the salmon flakes easily
when tested. Remove from the grill,
squeeze over the lime and set aside.
3 In a small dry frypan, fry the sesame
seeds over amediumheat until just
toasted, then set aside.
4Place the dressing ingredients in a
bowl andwhisk until combined. Add the
seaweed and spring onion and toss to
coat, then do the samewith the lettuce.
Divide between plates, topwith the
flaked salmon and sesame seeds.
*Togarashi seasoning, black sesame
seeds andwakame are available from
Asian food shops.
Vietnamese chargrilledeggplant saladTamarind cuts beautifully through the
melt-in-your-mouth charredeggplant.
Serves 2
• 1 tbs jasmine rice
• 2 small eggplants, sliced into
3mm-thick rounds
• 1 tbs peanut oil
• 3 spring onions, thinly sliced
• 75g beansprouts
• 1 long red chilli, finely sliced
• Handful mint leaves
• 30g punnetmicro garlic chives
(optional)
• 1 tbs roasted salted peanuts,
chopped
Dressing
• 1 tbs fish sauce
• 1 tsp tamarind paste
• 1 tsp grated palm sugar
or brown sugar
1 For the dressing, heat fish sauce,
tamarind and sugar in a small pan over
mediumheat, stirring, for 3–5minutes
until sugar has dissolved. Cool.
2Toast the rice in a dry frypan over
mediumheat, shaking occasionally,
for 8–10minutes until golden and crisp.
Using amortar and pestle, grind it to
a coarse powder, then set aside.
3Heat a chargrill pan over high heat,
brush the eggplant sliceswith oil and
chargrill for 6minutes, turning, until
tender and charred.
4Divide the eggplant between
2 plates, scatter over the spring onion,
beansprouts, chilli, mint andmicro
garlic chives, if using, then drizzle
generouslywith dressing. Finishwith
a scattering of the chopped peanuts
and the toasted rice powder.
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What was the hardest part of trying to conceive? And the best?
When I didn’t conceive in the frst month we tried I cried and
moaned that it was probably because I was “too old”, but I was
only 29 at the time. My poor husband had to put up with that kind
of melodrama ofen in those days. I was convinced that losing
weight would increase our fertility. We weren’t big fatties to start
with, but we had just spent 6 months travelling (read: eating) all
over Europe, Africa and Asia, and had piled on a bit of weight.
As the main cook in our house I promptly overhauled our meals,
banned alcohol and strongly encouraged daily exercise. Yes, I was
bossy, but hubby was 100% on board. For the record though,
I have really mellowed since then, and was not nearly as strict with
hubby the second time around! The second month we tried to
conceive, we had success. Hubby, understandably, felt very
stud-like. I was also much more relaxed. I knew when I was
ovulating so we timed the attempts, but we didn’t stress too
much about the result. It was more about enjoying ourselves.
It’s rIdIculously easy to eat well in summer, especially
when it comes to dessert. Put out a plate of ripe peaches and
a handful of juicy strawberries, and you’re done. Chop a few
diferent coloured melons for a cooling salad, or stock the
freezer with sweet summer sorbets to cool down a crowd.
My natural instinct with fruit is to keep things very simple
and light, and not load it up with heaps of desserty-things.
On the other hand, a little chocolate jelly, however,
or a vanilla-yoghurt cream? Yes, please. Whether it’s
whisking up an instant gluten-free banana soufe, building
a yoghurt and berry trifle around flourless chocolate cake,
or having ready-made sorbets in the freezer, a little bit
of what you fancy does you good.
With the excess of the holiday season
behind us, Jill takes a look at the lighter
side of cool summer desserts.
RecipesJilldupleix
photogRaphyben
dearnley
stylin
gvic
kivalsamis
nutRitio
nalanalysis
kateskin
ner
116 delicious.
Low in fat
Yoghurt & BerrY
gelato terrine
This tangy gelato terrine is perfect
for stress-free entertaining – just slice
and serve on a hot summer’s day.
1
jill’s fab four.
Gluten-free
banana & lime souffle
with toasted coconut
These easy souffles rise
miraculously and taste
like a banana milkshake.
2
jill’s fab four.
Low-kilojoule
dark chocolate jellies
with caramel popcorn
Top these silky chocolate jellies with
the sweet crunch of caramel popcorn.
3
delicious. 119
cake & berry trifle
This combination of flourless
chocolate cake, dreamy vanilla
yoghurt and tangy berries proves
that trifles don’t have to be heavy.
High in protein
4
banana & lime soufe with toasted coconutServes 4
2 tsp unsalted butter, melted1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar,
plus 2 tsp extra
1 banana
1 tbs lime juice
1 tbs dark rum (optional)
3 eggwhites (at room
temperature)
2 tbs shredded coconut,
toasted, plus extra to serve
Pure icing sugar,
to dust
Preheat the oven to 190°C. Brush four 1/2 cup (125ml) ramekins
with melted butter, then coat with the extra 2 tsp caster sugar,
shaking off any excess. Place ramekins on a baking tray.
Whiz the banana, lime juice, and rum, if using, in a food
processor until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
Whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until soft peaks
form. Gradually beat in caster sugar until stiff and glossy.
Gently fold the meringue mixture into the banana mixture.
Divide among ramekins, then run your finger around the inside
edge (this will help the souffles rise as they cook). Scatter
with coconut, then bake, on the centre shelf of the oven,
for 12 minutes or until golden and risen.
Dust the souffles with icing sugar and top with extra
toasted coconut, then serve.
Per serve: 720kJ (172 cal), fat 3.0g (saturated 2.0g), protein 3.4g,
carb 32.9g, fibre 1.6g, chol 5mg, sodium 56mg.
yoghurt & berry gelato terrineServes 8
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
500g thick Greek-style
yoghurt
1 cup (150g) pure icing sugar,
plus 2 tbs extra
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp rosewater
3 x 125g punnets raspberries,
plus extra to serve
Mint leaves, to serve
To make sugar syrup, combine caster sugar and 2 cups (500ml)
water in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil, then cook,
for 3 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool.
Whisk yoghurt, icing sugar, vanilla and 200ml cooled sugar
syrup together. Transfer to a container and freeze, stirring every
1 hour, for 3 hours. Spoon half into a 1.25L terrine lined with plastic
wrap and freeze. Chill remaining yoghurt gelato in the fridge.
Meanwhile, whiz rosewater, 250g berries and remaining 300ml
sugar syrup in a food processor until smooth. Strain, then transfer
to a container and freeze, stirring every 1 hour, for 3 hours.
Spoon berry gelato into terrine and freeze for 2 hours. Top with
reserved yoghurt gelato. Cover and freeze for 4 hours. Blend
remaining 125g berries and 2 tbs icing sugar until smooth. Strain.
Uncover terrine and invert onto a plate, remove plastic wrap
and slice, then serve with berry puree, mint and extra raspberries.
Per serve: 866kJ (207 cal), fat 1.6g (saturated 0.9g), protein 6.8g,
carb 42.6g, fibre 3.0g, chol 3mg, sodium 21mg.
dark chocolate jellies with caramel popcornServes 4
1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
100g dark chocolate, chopped
1 tbs instant coffee, diluted
in 2 tbs hot water
3 titanium-strength gelatine
leaves*
Store-bought caramel
popcorn, to serve
Place sugar and 11/2 cups (375ml) water in a saucepan over
medium heat and bring to the boil. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes
or until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, then add chocolate
and coffee, stirring until melted and smooth.
Meanwhile, soak gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes
to soften. Squeeze excess water from gelatine, then stir into
the chocolate mixture, whisking until combined. Chill, stirring
every half hour, for 11/2 hours or until slightly thickened, then stir
mixture until smooth. Divide among four 1/2 cup (125ml) jelly
moulds then cover and chill for at least 6 hours or until set.
To serve, dip the base of each jelly mould briefly in hot water
and turn out onto serving plates. Serve with caramel popcorn.
* Gelatine leaves (check the packet for setting instructions)
are from delis and gourmet food shops.
Per serve: 908kJ (217 cal), fat 7.4g (saturated 5.2g), protein 6.1g,
carb 33.6g, fibre 0.8g, chol 6mg, sodium 20mg.
flourless chocolate cake & berry trifleServes 4
100g dark chocolate, melted1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
75g unsalted butter, melted1/2 cup (60g) almond meal
11/2 tsp vanilla extract
3 eggs, separated
2 tbs pure icing sugar
200g strawberries,
halved
200g low-fat yoghurt
100g ricotta
125g punnet blueberries
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line a 20cm springform
cake pan. Combine chocolate, caster sugar and butter in
a bowl. Add almond and 1/2 tsp vanilla, stirring to combine.
Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.
Whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until stiff peaks form,
then gently fold through chocolate mixture. Pour into pan and
bake for 25 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Cool.
Meanwhile, whiz icing sugar and half the strawberries in
a food processor until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk
yoghurt, ricotta and remaining 1 tsp vanilla until smooth.
Crumble cake and divide among 4 glasses. Top with vanilla
yoghurt, coulis, blueberries and remaining 100g strawberries. d.
Per serve: 2205kJ (527 cal), fat 36.0g (saturated 18.2g), protein
15.7g, carb 35.6g, fibre 4.1g, chol 180mg, sodium 180mg.
jill’s fab four.
delicious. 121
Visit morefuninthephilippines.com.aufacebook.com/itsmorefuninthephilippines
• Asian hotspots in Sydney &Melbourne • Postcard from Fiji • A taste of Lake Como, Italy
delicious. 123
recipesGIo
vannIpIlu
&alessandro
pavonI
wordsvallIlIttle
photographyMarKroper
It may be George Clooney’s favourite holiday destination for its luxuryvillas, but if you explore a little deeper, Lake Como is also a foodie paradise.Valli joined two of Australia’s top Italian chefs, Alessandro Pavoni and GiovanniPilu, for a weekend-long cooking class to discover regional Lombardy dishes.
Hidden depths
delicious. 125
global favours.
TheGlisTeninGwaTer, craggy peaks and verdant
surrounds of Lake Como in the Lombardy region of Italy have
lured tourists and celebrities looking for a secluded getaway
for hundreds of years. Earlier this year, two of Australia’s top
Italian chefs teamed up for a cooking adventure in their
homeland organised by Sue Jenkins of Sydney’s Accoutrement.
For Ormeggio at the Spit chef and owner Alessandro Pavoni,
who grew up close by in Brescia, it was a chance to cook with
flavours from his childhood. “Lemons, olives, good olive oil
and freshwater seafood are the flavours I grew up with and
the hero ingredients in many dishes from the region,” says
Alessandro. For Sardinian-born Giovanni, who owns Pilu
at Freshwater on Sydney’s northern beaches, the getaway
provided the opportunity for some fresh inspiration. “There
are vast diOerences in the reginal specialities around Italy. For
example when it comes to cheese, in Sardinia we really only
produce pecorino, whereas in Como we had access to a variety
of incredible cheese such as Taleggio and gorgonzola,
which we incorporated into our menu,” says Giovanni.
The luxe lodgings of Villa La Cassinella, perched on the
waters’ edge, oOer panoramic views of the region and nearby
town of Lenno. The plush styling and traditional furnishings
were the launching pad for a weekend spent exploring the lake
and towns of Bellagio and Varenna, stopping for tastings at
local wineries and artisan food producers along the way. In the
evenings, Giovanni and Alessandro led hands-on cooking
classes and demonstrations back at the villa, before dinner
on the lakeside terrace overlooking the tranquil water.
“Alessandro and I love working together,” says Giovanni.
“We have a lot of fun and there’s always a touch of healthy
rivalry because he’s from the north and I’m from the south.”
Thanks to Singapore Airlines for their assistance with this story.
Singapore Airlines operate five flights a week fromAustralia
toMilan. For bookings, tel: 131 011 or visit: singaporeair.com.
global favours.
delicious. 127
Clockwise (from far left): Giovanni and Alessandro on
Lake Como; the lounge room at Villa La Cassinella; the
villa is only accessible by boat; scallops with bottarga
butter and pancetta; classic Italian style at the villa; baked
fish with white wine and green olives (recipe p 132).
slices and place one on top of each. Place
in the oven for 30 seconds or until butter
begins to melt. Immediately top each
scallop with a slice of pancetta and serve.
polenta with trufedmixed mushroomsServes 4
40g dried porcini mushrooms
11/2 cups (250g) instant polenta
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
200g mixed mushrooms,
cut into small even-sized pieces
1 garlic clove, finely chopped1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
75g gorgonzola piccante*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 134)
50g parmesan, finely grated
Truffle shavings or oil* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 134) and rosemary sprigs, to serve
Place porcini in a heatproof bowl and
pour over 1 cup (250ml) boiling water.
Soak for 10 minutes, then drain.
Meanwhile, cook the polenta according
to the packet instructions.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium-high
heat, add porcini, mixed mushroom and
garlic, then cook for 5 minutes or until
golden. Stir in parsley. Remove from heat.
When the polenta is ready, stir in the
gorgonzola and parmesan, then cook
for a further 2 minutes or until melted.
To serve, divide polenta among plates,
top with mushrooms, truffle shavings
or truffle oil and rosemary sprigs.
scallops with bottargabutter and pancettaServes 4
50g bottarga* (see Cook’s Notes, p 134),
finely grated1/2 tsp chilli powder
200g softened unsalted butter
12 thin slices pancetta
12 scallops on half shell,
roe removed
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
To make the bottarga butter, combine
bottarga, chilli powder and 150g butter.
Place a large piece of plastic wrap on a
workbench. Spoon butter along the centre
of the plastic in a long strip and fold one
end over to enclose the butter. Hold the
sides of the plastic and roll into a neat log
2.5cm in diameter, then twist ends firmly
to secure. Place in the fridge to chill.
Arrange pancetta slices on a baking
paper-lined baking tray. Place another
tray of the same size on top to keep the
slices flat. Roast for 8 minutes or until
crisp and golden.
Remove the scallops from their shells
and season. Heat a non-stick frypan over
medium-high heat. Add remaining 50g
butter and, when sizzling, add scallops
and cook for 1 minute on one side,
then turn and cook for 30 seconds or until
golden but still opaque in the middle.
Return scallops to shells and place on a
baking tray. Cut bottarga butter into thin
128 delicious.
Terraces in the town of Lenno. Left: polenta
with truffled mixed mushrooms. Opposite:
the view of the lake from Villa La Cassinella.
global favours.
“lake como is home to incredible
freshwater fsh and seafood.”
tagliolini with sardinesServes 8 as a starter
You’ll need a pasta machine for this recipe.
100ml extra virgin olive oil
50g unsalted butter
1 white onion, finely chopped
24 sardine fillets* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 134), skin on, pin-boned
11/2 tbs dry white wine1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley,
leaves finely chopped
Tagliolini pasta dough
300g ‘00’ flour* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 134), plus extra to dust
3 eggs
Lemon breadcrumbs
50g unsalted butter
1 cup (70g) fresh breadcrumbs
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
For the pasta dough, sift the flour into a
bowl. Add the eggs and use your hands
to bring the mixture together into a firm
dough. Tip onto a floured workbench
and knead for 5 minutes or until smooth,
dusting hands or the bench with a little
more flour if it starts to stick. Enclose in
plastic wrap and place in the fridge for
30 minutes to rest.
Divide dough into 6 pieces and flatten
1 piece slightly into a neat rectangle.
Cover the remaining pieces with a clean
tea towel to prevent drying out. Starting
on the thickest setting of your pasta
machine, run the dough through a few
times, folding it in half each time, until
elastic. Keep rolling the dough through
the settings, reducing the thickness each
time, until 2mm thick. Cut the sheet into 3
equal lengths (about 25cm), dust with flour
and feed through the flat pasta-cutting
attachment on your machine to create
tagliolini. Place tagliolini on a flour-dusted
tray and repeat with remaining dough.
For the lemon breadcrumbs, melt butter
in a frypan over medium heat. Add crumbs
and garlic, then stir until golden. Remove
pan from heat, add lemon zest and a pinch
of salt, then toss to combine. Set aside.
Heat oil and butter in a frypan over low
heat. Add onion and a pinch of salt, then
cover and cook, stirring, for 15-20 minutes
until very soft, but not coloured. Add
sardines to the frypan, increase heat
to high and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes
or until sardines are almost dissolved.
Add the wine and stir to combine.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a saucepan
of boiling, salted water for 2 minutes
or until tender, then drain.
Toss pasta with sauce and parsley, then
serve sprinkled with lemon breadcrumbs.
lamb with fregola & olive saladServes 4
4 x 350g French-trimmed lamb racks
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
Flat-leaf parsley leaves and
lemon wedges, to serve
Fregola & olive salad
1 cup (200g) fregola*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 134)1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs good-quality red wine vinegar
20 (120g) Bosane olives* (see Cook’s
Notes, p 134), pitted, finely chopped
1 rosemary sprig,
leaves finely chopped
1 marjoram sprig, leaves picked
1 mint sprig, leaves finely chopped
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
Remove lamb from fridge 1-2 hours
before cooking. Cover and set aside
to bring to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Season
lamb generously with salt. Heat 1 tbs oil
in a large ovenproof frypan over
medium-high heat. Add 2 racks of lamb,
skin-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes
each side or until well browned. Repeat
with remaining 1 tbs oil and racks.
Transfer the lamb racks to a baking
paper-lined baking tray and roast for
15 minutes for medium or until cooked
to your liking. Remove lamb from the
oven, cover loosely with foil and set
aside to rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, for the fregola and olive
salad, bring a saucepan of salted water
to the boil over high heat. Add the
fregola and cook for 10 minutes or until
al dente. Drain, then toss with 1 tbs oil.
Spread out on a tray to cool. Combine
the vinegar with the remaining 1/4 cup
(60ml) oil, and season. Combine the
remaining ingredients in a bowl,
add the fregola and drizzle over the
dressing, then toss to combine.
Divide the fregola salad among 4 serving
plates. Slice the lamb into cutlets and
arrange on top of the fregola.
Place the resting juices from the lamb in
a frypan over high heat and bring to the
boil. Drizzle over the meat and serve with
parsley and lemon wedges on the side.
130 delicious.
Clockwise (from top left): villas on
Lake Como; Giovanni and Alessandro;
lamb with fregola & olive salad; mosaic
in the villa gardens; tagliolini
with sardines.
global favours.
132 delicious.
perch with risotto and sage butterServes 6 as a starter
1.5L (6 cups) fish stock
200g unsalted butter
2 cups (440g) carnaroli rice*
(see Cook’s Notes, p 134)
100g finely grated parmesan1/2 cup (75g) plain flour
500g silver perch fillets, pin-boned
16 sage leaves
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Place stock in a large saucepan over high
heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat
to low and simmer until needed.
Melt 25g butter in a deep frypan over
medium heat. Add rice and a pinch of salt,
and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until
well coated. Add stock, 1 ladle at a time,
stirring and allowing each one to be
absorbed before adding the next, until
the rice is al dente (about 20 minutes).
Remove risotto from heat, add cheese
and 75g butter. Cover, without stirring, and
set aside for butter and cheese to melt.
Meanwhile, place flour on a plate and
season. Cut fish into strips and dust in the
flour, shaking off excess. Heat 50g butter
in a frypan over medium heat. Add half the
sage leaves and half the fish, then cook,
turning, for 2-3 minutes until cooked
through. Transfer to a plate and repeat
with remaining 50g butter, sage and fish.
Drizzle the risotto with oil and use a
wooden spoon to beat the risotto until
creamy, adding a little more hot stock if
necessary. Transfer to a serving platter.
Place the fish on top of the risotto.
Spoon the remaining sage butter from
the pan over the fish, then serve.
baked fish withwhite wine and green olivesServes 4
Alessandro and Giovanni used local
lake fish for this recipe, but we have
substituted rainbow trout.
4 x 300g whole rainbow trout, cleaned
1 spring onion, white part thinly sliced
2 rosemary sprigs, leaves finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
20 Bosane olives* (see Cook’s Notes,
p 134), cheeks cut from the stone
4 fresh bay leaves
1 cup (250ml) dry white wine
2 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf
parsley leaves
Preheat oven to 180ºC. Score one side
of each fish with four diagonal slits.
Place fish on a baking paper-lined
baking tray, scored-side up. Scatter the
spring onion, rosemary, garlic and olive
over the top and place a bay leaf on each
fish. Pour over wine and sprinkle with
parsley, salt and a generous amount of
pepper. Bake, basting with the pan juices
halfway, for 20 minutes or until just
cooked. Transfer fish to a serving plate.
Pour the cooking juices into a small
saucepan and bring to the boil, then
spoon over the fish to serve.
Perch with risotto and sage
butter. Opposite: the
meandering gardens of
Villa La Cassinella.
global favours.
134 delicious.
pears poached in red winewith ginger semifreddoServes 8
8 small pears, peeled (stems intact)
1L (4 cups) red wine
10 cloves
1 cinnamon quill
Pared zest of 1 orange, cut into large
strips, white pith removed
400g caster sugar
Crushed amaretti biscuits, to serve
Ginger semifreddo
6 egg yolks
150g caster sugar
2 tsp finely grated fresh ginger
200ml cream, whipped to soft peaks
For the ginger semifreddo, using electric
beaters, beat egg yolks until creamy.
Place sugar and 150ml water in a small
saucepan over medium heat and cook,
stirring, for 2-3 minutes until sugar
dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high
and bring to a simmer. Simmer for
4 minutes or until slightly reduced. Slowly
drizzle the hot sugar syrup into the egg,
beating constantly. Continue beating for
7-8 minutes until mixture is cool, glossy,
pale and tripled in volume. Fold the
ginger through the whipped cream, then in
batches, gently fold the ginger cream into
the egg mixture until just incorporated.
Pour into a 1.5L (6 cup) loaf pan or plastic
container, then cover and freeze for at least
6 hours to set.
Arrange pears upright in a single layer,
in a saucepan. Add wine, cloves, cinnamon,
orange zest and sugar, and cover the
surface closely with a piece of baking
paper. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat
to low and simmer for 25-30 minutes until
pears soften but still hold their shape.
Remove pears from pan, then return the
poaching liquid to medium heat and boil
for 30 minutes or until reduced to a syrupy
consistency. Strain, discarding solids.
Slice the pears in half through the stem
and serve with scoops of semifreddo, then
top with crushed amaretti and syrup. d.
Cook’s Note* Bottarga is a dried, cured mullet
roe, available from delis and
Asian food shops.
* Gorgonzola piccante is a piquante
Italian blue cheese available from
selected supermarkets and delis.
* Fresh truIes and truIe oil are
available from gourmet food shops.
* Sardine fillets are available from
fishmongers and the seafood counter
at selected supermarkets.
* ‘00’ flour is a super-fine Italian flour
grade, used to make pasta or bread.
It’s from supermarkets and delis.
* Fregola is a small Sardinian pasta,
from delis and Italian food shops.
* Carnaroli is a high-grade Italian
risotto rice from delis.
* Bosane olives are large green olives
from Bosa, Italy; substitute Sicilian
green olives.
Pears poached in red wine
with ginger semifreddo. Right:
alfresco dining at the villa.
global favours.
myfirstglimpse of Laucala island
is from the private plane; a green speck
of palm fronds surrounded by a thin
frame of white sand rising from a
turquoise lagoon. The island’s only resort
consists of 25 luxury thatched villas
spread out over 1400 hectares of tropical
paradise, and by that I mean lush coconut
groves, powder-white beaches and craggy
clif tops with 360-degree views.
I was lucky enough to be invited to Laucala Island Resort
to prepare a dinner for guests with the resort chefs. The island
is like no other I’ve been to, with ongoing eforts towards
conservation and a sustainable approach to hospitality at the
heart of its ethos. Almost all resources are produced on the
island, fromwater and
electricity to organic
crops and livestock
– it’s the ultimate
chef’s playground.
Fresh produce
on the island spans
everything from
plump vanilla beans
to wild pumpkin,
ginger, cassava and all
manner of herbs and
greens. Tropical fruits
are in abundance and, depending on the season, can include
papaya, mango, banana, star fruit and lychee. The farm is
also home to a herd of goats, sheep,Wagyu cattle and wild
boar-hybrid pigs. There’s an apiary producing honey and
a coconut press that extracts all the oil andmilk needed
for daily use in the kitchen and health spa.
Using the bounty of island produce, I created a seven-course
menu, and I can honestly say that the pressures of the Quay
kitchen seemed a galaxy away, with the ocean breeze in my
hair as I whipped around the island on a jet ski before service.
A green speck in the South Pacific, Fiji’s private island Laucala is the ultimate luxury getaway. Peter
Gilmore takes a break from the kitchen at his Sydney restaurant Quay to cook with fresh island produce.
Run to paradise
coconut cream with vanilla granita,lychees and raspberriesServes 6
This recipe is inspired by the abundance of coconuts
and tropical fruit on the island. I made a similar dessert
for guests at the resort, using tree-ripened bananas
and fresh mango.
100ml milk
100ml pure (thin) cream1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
100g coconut milk powder1/3 cup (80ml) double thick cream
24 fresh lychees, peeled, halved,
seeds removed
125g punnet raspberries
Vanilla granita
2 cups (500ml) sparkling white wine
13/4 cups (385g) caster sugar
2 vanilla beans, split, seeds removed
For the vanilla granita, combine the wine, sugar, vanilla pod and
seeds and 2 cups (500ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat.
Bring to the boil and whisk to combine. Strain the mixture
through a sieve, allowing the vanilla seeds to pass through, then
set aside to cool. Place the mixture in a shallow container and
place in the freezer for 2 hours or until partially frozen. Remove
the container from the freezer and break up the crystals by
scraping the surface with a fork. Return to the freezer for 1 hour,
then remove and scrape crystals again. Repeat twice.
For the coconut cream, combine the milk, pure (thin) cream
and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil.
Place the coconut milk powder in a heatproof bowl, then pour
over the hot milk mixture, whisking to combine. Chill until cool,
then whisk with the double thick cream until soft peaks form.
Spoon the coconut cream into serving glasses, then top
with lychees, raspberries and vanilla granita. d. LocAtio
nPhotoGrAPhyPETRIN
ATIN
SLAY
Food
PhotoGrAPhyALAN
BENSON
StyLin
GVIV
IENNEwALSh
“Fresh produce onLaucala island spanseverything fromplump vanilla beansto wild pumpkinand ginger.”
136 delicious.
postcard.
WHERE Laucala Island Resort, Fiji.
WHEN There isn’t a bad time to go
to Fiji, but the dry season (May to
October) is milder and less humid.
WHY A tropical foodie paradise
oOering sandy beaches, turquoise
lagoons, island-grown produce and
plenty of activities, from water
sports to horse riding.
Must-doAfter a lazy breakfast
overlooking the palm plantation, hit
the water for kite-surfing, game
fishing, jet-skiing and snorkelling;
practise your swing on the 18-hole
golf course; explore the island’s
farms and crops; or unwind with
a volcanic stone scrub at the spa.
HoW Fly to Nadi International
Airport, Fiji, then onto Laucala via
a 40-minute flight in a private plane
operated by the resort.
Visit: laucala.com and lhw.com.
Clockwise from top left: Peter Gilmore with resort executivechef Martin Klein in the hydroponic herb garden; coconutcream with vanilla granita, lychees and raspberries; theview from the beach; Laucala Island Resort’s pool.
Wordsvall
ilittle
illustratio
nStephanie
weStcott
It's said that if Paris is the heart of France, then Lyon is its stomach.
Valli Little puts this theory to the test with a day of local specialties.
8amRise and shine
When you're staying at hotel le Royal
(20 Place Bellecour), you need to look
no further than your own digs for the best
breakfast in town. It's the training ground
for students at L'Institut Paul Bocuse,
who train under the watchful eyes of
the masters as they cook for hotel guests.
9amtop shelf
Explore the boutiques at Place Bellecour,
including librairie in cuisine (1 Place
Bellecour), a bookshop devoted entirely to
gastronomy. Admire the range of cooking
utensils, grab a coffee or sign up to a class.
10amoff to maRket
No visit to Lyon is complete without
visiting the market les halles de paul
Bocuse (102 Cours Lafayette), named after
the famous Lyonnais chef. Guided tours
are available, or explore on your own.
Be sure to stop in at charcuterie Sibilia
for sausages, including local cervelas,
and la Mère Richard for cheese.
12pmdine like a local
The city's famous bouchons are enjoying a
renaissance. Neither a bistro nor a brasserie,
these cheap and cheerful eateries are
simple kitchens serving up local fare
including popular offal and pork dishes.
Try authentic Restaurant Daniel & Denise
(156 Rue de Créqui) for the meat and fish
pies, foie gras and omelette de cure
(omelette with cured meats).
2pmchoc full
Save room for dessert, as the laboratory
and boutique of master chocolatier
Sébastien Bouillet can’t be missed.
choKola (3 Rue Austerlitz) has a wall
of liquid chocolate to greet you, with an
abundance of chocolate bars to takeaway.
3pmchill out
Vieux Lyon (the Old City) is well worth
a visit. Discover the many alleyways and
winding streets originally used by the city’s
famous silk merchants. If you have room,
get another sweet fix at ice cream parlour
terre adélice (1 Place de la Baleine). Their
range of flavours is inventive and exotic
– think lavender, foie gras, Roquefort or
gingerbread, to name a few.
5pmput youR feet up
Time to rest those weary limbs and unwind
at Spa Saint-Jean (31 Rue de Boeuf). They
offer a range of body therapies and scrubs
perfect for soothing tired feet.
7pmdRink and be meRRy
Bar Baragones (5 Place Saint-Paul) is a great
spot to experience goneries (small snacks).
Choose from the extensive wine list or
enjoy an aperitif amongst the vintage decor.
8pmthe last suppeR
A short taxi ride will take you to the theatre
district and la Bonâme de Bruno (5 Grande
Rue Feuillants), where chef Bruno and his
wife create inspired dishes. Try foie gras
with pickled red cabbage, grilled squid
and candied lemon, and mascarpone and
mirabelle plum cheesecake to finish.
Thanks to Lyon Tourist Office and
Convention Bureau for assistance
(visit: en.lyon-france.com).
24 hours.
138 delicious.
DISCOVER THE STORY BEHIND
OUR AUSTRALIAN
RED GUM HONEY
In the 1880’s Benjamin Robinson was mining for gold in
Victoria, when he discovered the area’s native eucalypt honey
was an untapped source of liquid gold. Four generations later
and Robinsons are still producing honey from family hives
in Beechworth. Ask them their secret - the bees feed on the
blossoms of majestic native Red Gums fringing Australia’s
billabongs and rivers. They bottle the results. It’s as simple
and natural as that.
Only at
A fine vintageNestled in the heart of Victorian dairy country in Gippsland comes afamily-produced, award-winning vintage cheese for the Coles Finestrange, using traditions handed down from old cheddar masters.
delicious. Coles FiNest AdVertisiNG FeAture
Left to right: the Holstein dairy
cows; cheddar curd being mixed
by hand; cloth wrapping the
cheese; the fully matured cheddar;
Sam Riggall and Ferial Zekiman.
a passion for tradition
It’s 4am and Sam Riggall’s day starts with the sound of his herd
of Holstein cows bellowing as they come into the milking sheds.
With around 250 to milk and cheese to be made, it’s going to be
a long day. But he loves it.
Together with his mother, Ferial Zekiman, Sam runs Maffra Cheese
Company, which has been producing vintage cheddar for almost 30 years.
When Ferial first startedmaking cheese, she looked to her grandmother
in Cyprus, who made some of the island’s most famous goat cheeses,
to pass down her passion and artisan traditions. With her grandmother’s
help and the assistance of a couple of retired cheddar masters from
the local Maffra region, she began to learn the techniques that make
their cheese so special today.
As a trained chemist, Ferial combined the traditional techniques
with her innate science knowledge, and is now recognised as one of
Australia’s most experienced and accomplished cheesemakers.
"Making cheese using farmhouse traditions that are 90 years old
means we can play with nuance, flavour and aroma. It's about producing
something that's unique to our land," says Sam.
masters of their craft
Ferial and Sam are now producing their award-winning vintage cheddar
with milk from their farm for the Coles Finest range. It’s the beautiful
balance between the science of cheesemaking and the farmhouse
traditions that make their cheese so unique. Importantly, these traditions
mean that the milk in their cheddar comes only from their herd, and the
cheddar itself is made completely by hand and matured until ready for
selection on their farm.
During the maturing process they constantly check on the cheeses
to see that the flavour profile is developing. It's a hands-on process
driven by passion for their craft and the satisfaction of seeing
a product they made.
“We still mix the cheddar curd by hand every day in open
vats; very few factories in the world do that,” says Sam.
For Ferial and Sam it’s a true labour of love as they continually
perfect their cheesemaking traditions with a deep understanding
of the chemistry of the milk, flavours and aroma.
“The seasons of the year, what we feed the cows and the type of
cows themselves all make a huge difference to the cheese,” says Sam.
unearthing australia’s finest
Coles Finest Gippsland Farmhouse Vintage Cheddar is made
using traditional methods, wrapped in cloth andmatured for up
to 24 months. It’s available at Coles supermarkets nationally.
“making cheese using farmhouse
traditions that are 90-years old
means we can play with nuance,
favour and aroma.”
Lunar New Year
To kick off Chinese Year of the Horse, we asked some of Sydney and Melbourne’s top Asian chefsto name their favourite dining spots in their cities and to engage in a little friendly interstate rivalry.
delicious. 143
wordsShannon
harley,lara
zilibowitz&
heid
ifin
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photographymarkroper&
nig
ellough
agrees). “The family who own it is well known and have a
cult following,” says Michael. “It’s fast and fresh, and there’s
always a line, but you only wait for about 15 minutes. I order
the combination pho, and they also have really good chilli
sauce,” says Jason. Also worth queuing for are the dumplings
at Shanghai Street Dumpling (342 Little Bourke St, Melbourne,
(03) 9600 2250). “They have every kind of dumpling and bun
you can imagine.” Victor is also a regular here, naming the
pan-fried dumplings “the best in the city”.
Stephen Lo, who has also worked with
the Lau family, has recently taken over
and reinvented Ants Bistro (7 Corrs Ln,
Melbourne, (03) 9639 2908). “Stephen
learnt a lot from our father and he’s taken
on a lot of what we do, especially with his
use of fresh produce to create good clean
food. It’s a great hidden gem.”
The brothers recommend Coda
(141 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9650 3155) for a crowd
because chef Adam D’Sylva’s French-Vietnamese menu of
mostly small bites “ofers something diferent,” says Jason.
“The signature dish – roasted yellow duck curry – is amazing.”
Supper Inn (15 Celestial Ave, Melbourne, (03) 9663 4759)
in Chinatownmay be hard to find, but the brothers say it’s a
Melbourne institution for late-night dining. “We go with a group
after work and order the salt and pepper squab,” saysMichael.
4
1. Brothers Jason and Michael Lau. 2. Coda’s HerveyBay scallops. 3. Late-night dining at Supper Inn.4. Flower Drum. Previous page (clockwise fromfar left): Sydney’s Mr. Wong; Paddy’s Market; Coda’scrab, chilli & lime betel leaf; Melbourne’s Chinatown;Chow Bar & Eating House; The Century; tempuraudon at Nama Nama; Emperor’s Garden butcher.
Jason & Michael lauWhile they’ve gained a following for theirmapo tofu since
opening Lau’s Family Kitchen (4 Acland St, St Kilda, (03) 8598
9880) seven years ago, brothers Jason andMichael have
restaurant pedigree in their blood. “My father, Gilbert, opened
Flower Drum (17 Market Ln, Melbourne,
(03) 9662 3655) in 1975,” saysMichael. And
even though he sold the restaurant in 2003,
it’s still where the Lau family head for
special occasions. “It’s great for parties and
has good food and service,” he says. “I love
the Peking duck, I would go just for that.”
For a quick bite that’s more traditional,
the brothers head to Crystal Jade
(154 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9639
2633), a Hong Kong-style eatery. “They do good barbecue pork,
noodles, seafood and all the Chinese classics,” says Jason.
One of their former waiters recently opened EC Kitchen
(1 Sir John Monash Dr, Caulfield East, (03) 9571 7665), which
has a casual student vibe. “It’s simple and cheap with a focus
on noodle bowls,” says Jason, who recommends the wonton
soup. I Love Pho (264 Victoria St, Richmond, (03) 9427 7749)
is another favourite for noodles (Victor Liong, see opposite,
“Supper Inn is
aMelbourne
institution for
late-night dining.”
32
1
delicious. 145
locavore.
1. Nama Nama. 2. Chef Victor Liong. 3. Neil Perry’s Spice Templeat The Crown. 4. Japanese restaurant Izakaya Den. 5. Lee Ho Fook’selegant raw ocean trout and jellyfish salad.
2
1
3
barbecue has got to be one of the best in the world. The unique
cooking techniques add tremendous depth of flavour,” he says.
For refined Cantonese cooking, Victor’s pick is Flower Drum.
“It’s hands down the best Chinese restaurant experience
in Australia,” he says. “Their stir-fried
pearl meat with spring onions and white
garlic chives is an example of perfection
lying in simplicity, but my favourite dish
is not actually on the menu and made on
request. It’s crabmeat soup dumplings
– they kill and cook the crab to order.”
According to Victor, the ramen game
in Melbourne is still early days, but
udon is perfected atNama Nama (31 Spring St, Melbourne,
(03) 9649 9500). “Their noodles are silky and their broths
clean and flavoursome. Small pony glasses of tap beers
for $5 accompanying great noodles, what’s not to love?”
When he’s heading out for a big night, Victor’s choice
is Neil Perry’s Melbourne outpost of Spice Temple (The Crown,
Southbank, (03) 8679 1888). “It’s a slick restaurant with a large
menu oaering great variety and a fantastic drinks list. I could
drink their Rickshaw cocktails all day long,” says Victor.
Victor Liong
After working at Marque and Mr. Wong in Sydney, 28-year
old Victor recently moved to Melbourne to open “new-style
Chinese” diner Lee Ho Fook (92 Smith St, Collingwood,
(03) 9077 6261). When he’s not busy in his own kitchen
he’s exploring the best Asian eats in his new hometown.
“I go to Izakaya Den (114 Russell St, Melbourne,
(03) 9654 2977) at least once a month,” says Victor,
whose go-to dishes include grilled ox
tongue, stir-fried eel with water spinach
and mushrooms, scallops with garlic soy
butter, duck liver pâté with wonton skins
and Japanese omelette with cod roe.
For a taste of home, Victor – whose
grandparents are Chinese and parents
were born in Malaysia – heads toMamak
(366 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9670
3137). “The roti and thin curry gravies will always remind me
of my childhood in Southeast Asia, the formica tables and the
waiters wearing Crocs make it authentic. Get the teh tarik,
a frothy milk-based tea, or Milo made with condensed milk.”
Pacific Seafood BBQ House (210 Toorak Rd, South Yarra,
(03) 9826 3838) oaers a huge variety of seafood and roasted
meats. Victor says their roast duck, char siu and roasted pork
belly are “oa the chain”. He also recommends the chicken ribs
with salted egg yolk sauce from the a la carte menu. “Chinese
“Chinese barbecue
has got to be the
best in the world.”
3
4
5
146 delicious.
Dan HongThe hipster chef, who grew up in a restaurateur family, has
helped reinvent Chinese dining in Sydney. When he clocks
oc from his roles as executive chef at
Mr. Wong (3 Bridge Ln, Sydney, (02) 9240
3000), Manly’s new Papi Chulo, Ms. G’s and
El Loco, he heads to Korean restaurant
Arisun (1 Dixon St, Sydney, (02) 9264 1588),
known for its fried chicken, beer jugs, soju
shots and K-pop. “They make their own
noodles, but the real attraction is the fried
chicken” says Dan. Another top late-night
spot is quaint Eaton Chinese Restaurant
(313 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield, (02) 9798 2332). “I come here
to escape the hustle of Chinatown. They do really good
live seafood and crispy-skinned fried pigeon,” says Dan.
“I call it the poor man’s Golden Century.”
Speaking of which,Golden Century (393 Sussex St,
Haymarket, (02) 9212 3901), is a hop from Dan’s CBD home, and
his pick for traditional Cantonese. “Owners Eric and his wife
Linda have been doing the same food for the past 24 years and
it’s still the best place to have live seafood,” says Dan. “Their
steamed lobster with XO sauce is one of my top dishes, and
their salt and pepper mud crab the best I’ve ever had. Golden
Century is one of the biggest influences for Mr. Wong.” Eric
and Linda’s son Billy opened The Century (The Star, Pyrmont,
(02) 9566 2328), which has a similar menu to the original, but
with a more sophisticated atmosphere. “The best dish is
stir-fried lobster with ginger and spring onion,” says Dan.
While the rest of us are buying our morning latte, Dan is at
Happy Chef (Sussex Centre Food Court,
Haymarket), which specialises in noodle
soups. His order: ‘Number 1’ ($8), a
Cambodian noodle soup with pork, beef,
prawns, blood jelly, pig’s liver, choy sum
and spring onion in a clear broth. “This
place is always buzzing. Their laksa
is one of the best in town,” says Dan.
When it comes to specialty dishes,
Dan has a “soft spot” for the Peking duck
at Lao Zhou Good Luck Chinese Restaurant (180 Liverpool Rd,
Enfield, (02) 9747 4625). “You have to pre-order the duck and let
the chef know what time you’re coming in, as he will only serve
it fresh from the oven,” says Dan. Mr. Wong’s dumpling chef Eric
Koh steams everything to order. “Eric is a dim summaster. He’s
worked at Hakkasan in London and Lei Garden in Singapore,
and continually comes up with the best flavour combinations.”
1. Chef Dan Hong. 2. Thesophisticated atmosphereof The Century at The Star.3. Arisun’s fried chicken andbeer. 4. Eric Koh’s fresh-steameddumplings at Mr. Wong. opposite:
Momofuku Seiobo at The Star.
“Golden Century
is one of the
biggest influences
forMr.Wong.”
1
2
4
3
locavore.
148 delicious.
locavore.
Chui Lee Luk
Despite swapping her fine-diner Claude’s for the more relaxed
Chow Bar & Eating House (320 Crown St, Surry Hills,
(02) 8095 9058), Chui Lee Luk, who grew
up in Sabah, Malaysia, still appreciates
a big ticket dinner atMomofuku Seiobo
(The Star, Sydney, (02) 9777 9000).
“The food and service are consistently
wonderful, and they have a great wine list,”
says Chui, whose favourite dish is wagyu
with Korean-style black bean sauce and
radish. “I like sitting at the bar watching
the chefs calmly preparing each dish.”
When she’s in the mood for the classics, Emperor’s Garden
(96 Hay St, Haymarket, (02) 9211 2135) is the old-style Chinese
restaurant that Chui always returns to. “I like the roasted meats,
such as pork with crackling, as only the Chinese know how to
make, char siu and roast duck.” Their butcher next door, is also
Dan Hong’s go-to place for good-quality pork at bargain prices.
Another favourite she shares with Dan is Chinese Noodle
House (8 Quay St, Haymarket, (02) 9281 4508) for their
zha jiangmian, the northern-Chinese answer to spaghetti
bolognese – thick noodles topped with stir-fried pork mince.
For a taste of home, Chui likes Alice’s Makan (580, George
St, Sydney, (02) 9262 7771) for their assortment of kuihs (sweet
Malaysian steamed rice cakes), which you have to reserve before
ordering your main meal. “I really like the char kway teow,
which is famousMalaysian hawker fare of stir-fried rice noodles
with a selection of toppings including prawns, Chinese sausage,
eggs and bean sprouts.” Another specialty that reminds Chui
of Southeast Asia are the moreish peanut pancakes at
Bakso House (341 Anzac Parade, Kingsford, (02) 9662 3706).
Ramen Ikkyu (401 Sussex St, Haymarket,
(02) 9281 0998) in Chinatown is best
for noodles. “Tsuke-men (a deconstructed
ramen, where the noodles and toppings
are served in a separate bowl to the soup)
is my favourite style as it’s light but filling,
and has an intense acidity to it.” And
when noodles won’t cut it, Chui heads to
@ Bangkok (730 George St, Haymarket,
(02) 9211 5232). “They serve fantastic
deep-fried fish and deep-fried chicken. Plus there’s a band
playing until close. I’m slowly learning the Thai Top 40!”
For ingredients, Chui likes Jasmine Asian Supermarket
(194 Burwood Rd, Burwood, (02) 9715 6868) with staf who
have an “encyclopaedic knowledge” of the items they stock;
Dong Nam A & Co (14 Campbell St, Sydney, (02) 9212 6673)
where she can practice her Cantonese; and for inspiration,
she peruses the produce at Paddy’s Markets in Haymarket. d.
“Chinese Noodle
House serves the
Chinese answer
to bolognese.”
1. Chef Chui Lee Luk. 2. Tsuke-men – deconstructed ramen – fromRamen Ikkyu. 3. Fresh produce at Paddy’s Market. 4. Sydney’s newrestaurant Chow Bar & Eating House. 5. Thai restaurant @ Bangkok.
1
3
2
4
4
5
152 delicious.
IndexFEBRUARY 2014
Thanks
The Test Kitchen uses Scanpan cookware and utensils, Global knives and Cuisinart
small appliances from Sheldon & Hammond. For national stockists, tel: 1800 209 999.
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STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS
Asparagus, grape & haloumi salad
with vinaigrette (v) ................................18
Baked salt & vinegar potato crisps
and thyme kumara chips (v) ..................71
Beetroot, blue cheese
& maple-roasted walnut salad (v) .........72
Crab & watercress souffle tarts .................40
Eggplant al forno (v) ...............................107
Green bean, olive & fennel salad (v).........96
Grilled cucumbers
with almond cream (v).........................103
Grilled haloumi and peaches
with dukkah (v) ......................................86
King prawns with chimichurri....................33
Leek & feta tart (v) ....................................41
Pancetta & herb tart .................................40
Roasted grapes with cheese (v) ..............102
Scallops with bottarga butter
and pancetta.......................................128
MAINS
Barbecued lamb racks ..............................95
Barbecued pizzas........................................7
Barramundi in banana leaf
with coconut rice ..................................54
Captain caveman chops .........................107
Chargrilled baby octopus with
pico de gallo. ........................................52
Chilli crab..................................................54
Chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioli.............50
Chorizo, ricotta & zucchini casarecce .......61
Crispy basil salad
with pork & pickled carrots.................113
Dukkah-crusted lamb cutlets
with strawberry couscous......................63
Garlic & ginger eye fillet
with quick cucumber & radish pickle ....65
Jamon-wrapped sardines
with harissa and chickpeas ...................50
Japanese gilled salmon
& seaweed salad.................................114
Lamb with fregola & olive salad .............132
Lobster & ricotta tortelloni with
prosecco & tomato sauce.....................71
Pan-fried blue-eye with
wild rice salad .......................................60
Peach & pork tacos...................................62
Polenta with mixed mushrooms (v).........132
Pork schnitzel with slaw ............................34
Prawn & noodle salad
with sweet chilli sauce ........................113
Ranchero breakfast tostadas (v)................84
Rib-eye steaks with
lemon, caper & dill butter.....................71
Risotto with perch fillets
and sage butter .................................. 130
Rojak with prawns...................................110
Salmon escalopes
with dill & avocado salad......................50
Seafood espetada
(Portuguese skewers) ............................64
Skirt steak with chargrilled vegetables .....92
Slow-cooked oyster blade steak
with tomato relish .................................92
Smoked chicken & fig salad .....................59
Spatchcock with
tarragon & garlic butter . ........................96
Spiced millet pilaf with beetroot,
feta and mint (v)....................................84
Toulouse sausage with frisee salad...........95
Vietnamese chargrilled
eggplant salad (v) ............................... 114
Vietnamese chicken salad (goi ga) .........110
Whole baked snapper
with ginger and chilli ............................54
Whole fish with white wine
and green olives .................................128
Zucchini & coconut noodles (v) ................86
SWEET THINGS
Banana & lime souffles with coconut......121
Black sticky rice with mango.....................78
Cardamom panna cotta with rosewater
syrup and pistachio praline...................72
Chocolate & ricotta cups
with walnut crust...................................88
Chocolate s’mores....................................57
Coconut cream with vanilla granita,
lychees and raspberries ......................136
Coffee granita...........................................36
Dark chocolate jellies
with caramel popcorn.........................121
Flourless chocolate cake & berry trifle ...121
Fruit skewers with gingersnap crumbs
and coconut cream...............................76
Homemade lemonade ice pops...............80
Hummingbird cake with toffee pecans.....80
Macadamia biscuit ice cream sandwiches ..80
Passionfruit & white chocolate eclairs ......72
Peach & cinnamon puff pastry squares ....41
Pears poached in red wine
with ginger semifreddo ......................132
Roasted fruit ...........................................107
Strawberry & rhubarb ripple
frozen yoghurt ......................................88
Yoghurt & berry gelato terrine................121
DRINKS, SIDE DISHES & ExTRAS Baked-
blackberry bellini . ...................................107
Pasta dough .............................................71
Raspberry, prosecco & mint cocktail ........71
1. Better brewTwinings new range of boutique teas includes Brisk English
Morning, Cottage Mint and Vintage Earl Grey, which come
in pyramid-shaped teabags for better brewing. For more
information, visit: twinings.com.au.
2. Hardy stockKeep a few bottles of easy-drinking William Hardy Chardonnay
in the fridge this summer and you’ll always be prepared for
last-minute entertaining when friends and family come visiting.
For more information, visit: hardyswines.com.
3. Buttered upWith picnic and barbecue season in full swing, Lurpak Butter
is your essential ingredient. Spread generously on fresh bread
and enjoy with grilled sausages and onions, or fresh prawns,
aioli and shredded iceberg lettuce. Visit: facebook.com/lurpak.
4. Portable feast
is perfect for entertaining. The stylish, non-stick pan features
cool-touch handles so you can take it straight to the table to
serve, meaning less washing up. Visit: morphyrichards.com.au.
5. Family fiestaFor an easy meal the whole family will love, try Mexican-style
chicken tacos with the goodness of Australian-grown corn. A
high source of fibre, corn is a great way to add more flavour and
healthy colour to your plate. For recipes, visit: edgell.com.au.
6. Secret saucePut a twist on your next barbecue with Kikkoman Japanese
Barbecue marinade. The sweet and salty flavour combination
works well with beef, chicken, pork and salmon. For more
information, visit: kikkoman.com.au.
7. Can doIn search of quick, healthy meal ideas? Try Sirena La Vita Lite
Tuna in Oil flaked over a green salad or tossed with wholemeal
pasta and chopped cherry tomatoes. For more information
and great recipe ideas, visit: sirena.com.au.
8. Sweet spotThe Coles Finest Honey range is made from native Australian
eucalypt with unique varieties available in each state. The Red
Gum Honey, which is available nationally, has heady fruit flavours
that work well in summer desserts. Visit: coles.com.au.
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The world-renowned Danish chef and co-owner of two-Michelin starrestaurant Noma shares his favourite foodie spots around the globe.
Rene Redzepi
The ingredienT i can’T cook wiThouT
is… I can’t pick one specific ingredient,
but I would choose vegetables any day.
My choice for a Top Tipple… Mikkeller
Beer Bar (above left) in Copenhagen for
their craft beer and cool fit-out, or Torst
in Brooklyn, for its 21 beer taps and
restaurant out back – Luksus, from chef
Daniel Burn (ex-Noma and Fat Duck).
BesT place for fresh produce? Oaxaca
city markets in southwest Mexico – the
bright fruit and vegetables are beyond
anything else you will ever see. It even
dwarfs Barcelona’s huge La Boqueria.
BesT place To saTisfy sweeT cravings?
B. Patisserie in San Francisco owned by
pastry chef Belinda Leong is an outstanding
place with great craftsmanship and an open
pastry kitchen. Try her 10-hour apple tart.
My recenT foodie discovery is…
the wonderful world of bugs!
favouriTe spoT for a caffeine fix?
Cafe Det Vide Hus, in Copenhagen
for its cosy and laid-back atmosphere,
or Tim Wendelboe (left) espresso bar
in Oslo, which is a micro roaster, training
centre and coffee shop all in one.
BesT place for sMall BiTes?
The salumi, cheeses and pizza from
the bakery at Salumeria Roscioli
(top left) in Rome are unbeatable.
BesT Meal off The BeaTen Track?
Hartwood (left) in Tulum, Mexico. All
the food is prepared by hand – there are
no electrical appliances – and cooked in
a wood burning oven or on an open grill.
Top spoT for seafood? Rafa’s, a tiny,
unpretentious spot serving fresh grilled
seafood (a la plancha) in Roses, Spain.
The foodie experience ThaT’s BesT To
iMpress?Dragsholm Slot, just outside
Copenhagen, which is actually a baroque
castle, restaurant, hotel and museum in one.
chef To waTch… Blaine Wetzel (ex-Noma),
currently at The Willows Inn on Lummi
Island in the United States. He’s a really
smashing individual with great talent.
where i wanT To eaT nexT… the hugely
popular and frequently booked-out pub
The Sportsman in Seasalter, England.
who i wanT To cook for nexT… my kids.
when i don’T feel like cooking…
I actually cook every day – there’s just
no getting around it! d.
154 delicious.
secret address book.
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2014
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