dana 60:70 rear drums

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Dana 60/70 Rear DrumsReplacing the rear brakes on your F250 or F350 is not a very difficult job but is more complicated than workingon a semi-float axle (the kind you find in most cars and half ton trucks) and will require a little more care and alot more Brake parts Cleaner!

You are going to need the following tools, supplies, and parts for the job.

TOOLS13/16″ 1/2″ drive deep socket5/8″ shallow socket 7/16″ shallow socket1/2″ shallow socketAn assortment of socket extensions for convenienceLarge 1/2″ drive breaker bar3/8″ ratchet Torque wrench capable of 50 – 135 ft-lbs.Slotted screwdriverVice grips6″ C-ClampHammer3/8″ Flare wrench

Speciality tools are listed below 2 9/16″ rounded hex socket for axle lock nuts, NAPA Part KDS2436Brake Spoon and spring tools, can be found in Harbor Freight 7 Piece Brake Tool Set, P/N: 188-8VGA Ford Factory Shop Manual Set, the most important tool you can have!

SUPPLIESWheel bearing grease, I use multi-purposeBrake parts cleaner, up to six cansMany clean-up rags

PARTSBrake shoes (My F250CS with 12″ x 12.5″ shoes is Rabestos 316PG)

A Boy and his Jeep » Dana 60/70 Rear Drums http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-articles/ford-dana-60-rear-drums

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Wheel Cylinders (Again, F250CS is WC370192 & WC370193) Lock rings for hubs, NAPA Part 635-1100Seals for hubs, NAPA Part 24917Drum brake hardware kit

Okay, time to begin the fun!

Now, I’m going to start this article with a warning. This is a very messy job and you really should take someprecautions. To start with make sure and wear clothing that can get messy, I recommend wearing disposablegloves so that you can snap a layer of grease off and put a clean one on. I also suggest picking up an oil drip panto set underneath your work area saving your driveway. Also, keep in mind that it is very possible that the oldbrakes have asbestos liners, make sure not to breath any of the brake dust and under no circumstances shouldyou use pressurized air to clean the drums.

All of the procedures in this article can be found in the factory manual under sections titled Brake Drums –Single Cylinder, Dual Piston, and Wheel Bearings and Hubs – Rear (Full Floating Axle).

Start by cleaning your work area and setting out all the items you’re going to need. It would also help to have atruck handy, or at the very least an axle.

Click on any of the photographs to see a larger view.

Put on your safety glasses and wear them for the duration of the project. Chock the truck’s front wheels, setyour jack in place, and have your jack stands ready.

Remove your hub cap and break the eight lug nuts loose with the 13/16″ deep well socket and breaker bar.


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Jack up the side of the axle you are working on and secure it with a jack stand, remove wheel. In order tominimize the amount of gear oil running down the axle tube and onto your work area raise the side you areworking on about three inches higher than the other side.

Remove the eight axle shaft bolts with the 5/8″ socket and a ratchet, then slide the axle shaft out and set it in aplace where it will not get overly dirty.

Using slotted screwdriver and hammer straighten tabs on lock washer that are bent over the flats of the outerlock nut.

Remove outer lock nut with the 2 9/16″ socket and breaker bar, then remove the lock washer and inner lock nut. Pull entire brake drum/hub unit out toward you approximately two inches and set back in place then remove theouter bearing. If you have trouble moving the drum you may have to loosen the brake adjusting screw (seebelow, near the end of the article) if the shoes are holding the brake drum on (when a drum wears down itdevelops a lip on the outside, sometimes the shoes will catch this lip).


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Now pull the brake drum towards you off and set it down down on your drip pan outside down. As you can seehere my brake shoes actually had a lot of liner left on them but were completely slathered in wheel bearinggrease and brake fluid due to a bad wheel cylinder and hub seal.

Remove the wheel bearing seal and discard. I find it easiest to take a hammer and screwdriver and collapse onepart of the seal then pry the rest out. Take care not to damage the hub surface.


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Then remove the inner bearing and let it soak in a solvent. While gasoline works you’re not supposed torecommend using that as a solvent anymore so I’d never suggest getting a metal bucket, filling it with about 2″of gasoline, and tossing your bearings, hub nuts, and any overly greasy parts in. No, never.

Now it’s time to use some brake parts cleaner, and a lot of it if you’ve got the mess I did! You want to clean theinside of the hub getting all the old grease out, clean out the inside of the drum, taking care to eradicate any andall grease, and clean the old grease off the spindle, taking care to clean the threads on the end. Then thoroughlyclean the bearings themselves to get all of the old grease out then set them aside in a clean area. After you havecleaned everything out make sure the bearing races are smooth and not worn and the bearing needles are also notworn.


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Now it’s time to start doing brakes!

First remove the parking brake lever by removing the 7/16″ nut from behind the brake backing plate, hold thebolt in place with your vice grips.

After loosening the slack on the adjusting cable and pull the over travel spring free from the adjusting lever. After that remove the parking brake cable and set these parts aside.


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Using the large end of the silver spring tool remove the brake shoe retaining springs from both shoes. Set themaside. Then pull the brake shoes free and set them aside.

I recommend replacing the wheel cylinder while doing a brake job, they are cheap to buy and it’s not like youreplace rear breaks very often. To do this start by removing the brake line with the 3/8″ flare wrench, thenremove the wheel cylinder by removing the two 1/2″ bolts from the backing plate. After you’ve done thisremove the two piston extensions, clean them up, and transfer them to the new wheel cylinder.


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Now that you have everything off of the backing plate take a little time to clean it up. Using liberal amounts ofBrake Parts Cleaner get all the old grease and brake dust off, again be careful not to breath this stuff. After youhave done this take a moment to clean off your drain pan so that once again you have a clean work area.

One thing to notice is that the wheel cylinders differ from the left brake to the right. The difference is minor, thebrake line comes in the opposite side. See it illustrated below:

Install the new wheel cylinder taking care not to over-tighten the brake line, you don’t need gorilla strength here,then using your multi-purpose grease spread a little bit on the shoe contact points.

Now take the old rear shoe and remove the cable guide and drive the adjuster lever shaft out with your hammerand a socket extension, transfer these to the new rear brake shoe.


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Attach the adjusting lever to the rear brake shoe and hold it in place with the adjusting lever spring. Using newhold down springs put one of the brake shoes in place, you should be able to get the spring on fairly easily byholding the shoe out of position, after you’ve hooked the spring put the shoe in it’s proper place making sure thatit is properly engaged in the foot of the wheel cylinder piston extension.

Now attach the retracting springs to their proper place on both brake shoes and put the other shoe in place. Because the retractor springs are in place you will not be able to move the shoe around, this makes attaching thehold down spring more difficult. To make this job easier I use a 6″ C-Clamp to hold the shoe in place freeingboth my hands to attach the spring with a screwdriver.


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Now put the brake adjuster screw in place by spreading the brake shoes and slipping it in place, be careful not toknock the adjusting lever off in the process (don’t worry, you will). Now route the adjusting cable underneaththe rear hold down spring hook and attach the over travel spring to the adjusting lever. Then route the cablearound the cable guide and put the parking brake lever in place, tighten the nut behind the backing plate, thenattach the parking brake cable to the lever.

Now do the preliminary brake adjustment by slipping the drum over the shoes, does it fit? If so turn theadjusting screw to expand the shoes and try again, do so until you can no longer get the drum on and then back itoff just enough to install it. Set the drum aside for now.

Congratulations, you’ve just replaced your brake drums. See, it’s not as hard as people say, just a little irritating. Now it’s time to get dirty again!


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If you need to replace the bearings and / or races do so now. To replace the races use a brass drift to carefullydrive the races out of the hub in the same direction you remove the bearings. After that carefully drive the newraces into place making sure to keep them straight and true.

Using your grease take a nice big glob of it in your non-dominate hand (left for me) on your finger tips. Nowwith your dominate hand push the bearings from the wide end (where the largest gap is) and shove it towards theheel of your hand pushing the grease into the bearing. When you’ve got the hang of then and do it correctlyyou’ll see that it packs the bearings full of grease fast, who needs stinkin’ bearing packers?

Note the way the grease is coming out of the opposite side of the bearing (and pushing some old grease with it),this is what you want to see, nice legs. Now set that bearing in a clean area and pack the other bearing, isn’t thisfun! Wipe some of the excess grease from your gloves on the spindle giving it a thin, even coating.

Set the inner bearing in place on it’s race. Now take the new seal and carefully drive it into place. You coulduse a seal installer, a large socket or piece of pipe, or just hammer it in. Because I was too lazy to go find amakeshift tool I just hammered the seal into place, do so by carefully tapping the seal into place working yourway around the seal, you only move it in small amounts at a time (to keep it from getting crooked). When it’s inplace you’ll notice the tone of the taps change to a more bell like sound.


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Now carefully set the drum in place on the spindle (remember that you’ve got a brand new seal you don’t wantto ruin), put the outer bearing in place, and make sure it turns freely. Run the inner nut in until it contacts theouter bearing then put the wheel on the hub/drum and run a couple lug nuts down to keep it in place. Whileturning the wheel tighten the inner nut to 50 – 80 ft lbs then back it off by 3/8 of a turn.

Now set the new lock washer in place over the inner nut and run the outer locknut down until it contacts thewasher, now tighten it to 90 – 110 ft lbs. Check to make sure the wheel turns freely and the bearings are niceand tight (grasp the wheel and try to shake it). If everything looks good bend two of the lock washer’s tabsinward fully covering flats of the inner nut and two outward covering flats of the outer locknut.

Now get up off the ground, jump in the truck, and hit the parking brake and release it, I do this twice (this makessure the drums are centered on the backing plates, not as much of an issue with these drums as with other stylesas these tend to self center very well). Then go spin the wheels making sure they still turn freely. Now it’s time


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to manually adjust the brakes, everybody’s favorite part! To do so follow these instructions. After that adjust theparking brake like this.

After you are done adjusting and bleeding the brakes remove the fill plug from the differential and top off thegear oil (fill it until it starts to weep out of the fill plug). This would also be a good time to remove the vent hose(on the drivers side of the axle) and make sure it is obstruction free, if your vent hose is clogged the axle willpump oil out of one of your axle seals into your brake drum.

Once you’re done with your brake and hub service you will need to bleed the brakes starting from the furthestwheel from the master cylinder (Right rear first, then left rear, then right front, then left front). Keep in mindthat your truck may have special procedures for brake bleeding such as centering a pressure differential valve ortriggering a metering valve. Check your service manual to make sure of these before proceeding.

That’s it, now go out and enjoy what will probably be much better braking (as the drums were probably so out ofadjustment they weren’t doing much anything).

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19 Responses to “Dana 60/70 Rear Drums”

bill Says:February 15th, 2009 at 7.05 pm

WOW!!! As I am preparing to rebuild my brakes (first time for a dana 60), this has eliminated all thequestions that I had and has given me an idea of what to expect when I pull it apart. Very good article andthanks a million.

1.

HOOT Says:August 8th, 2009 at 6.50 pm

Great write up. Been searching for soemthing like this to rebuild my F-350 rear brakes. Going to use yourinfo here and adopt it to what I need to do my 1995 dually brake job. This will come in real handy for myDana 70 install in my Jeep J20 this fall as well.Thanks for the write up.HOOT aka Tom Gibson

2.

coleQ Says:October 29th, 2009 at 3.40 am

Nice job on this how-to. Good info and great detailing in the steps.

-ColeFollow me at http://twitter.com/ColeQ

3.

Need a pic - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum Says:December 7th, 2009 at 7.32 pm

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4.

steven Says:February 1st, 2010 at 12.23 am

5.


13 of 21 9/21/11 11:03 AM

Just finished doing the job. Thanks for the great article and pictures.My drums were full of gear oil when I pulled them off. I did find that my vent tube was clogged and gearoil was all in the drums. I spoke to the napa guys and they said that the inner seal may need to be replaced.How do you know? And how is this done?

Thanks for your help.

Steven

GSequoia Says:February 1st, 2010 at 12.30 am

The only seal you have to worry about on a rear axle is the one that I showed being removed andreinstalled here, it is normal for gear oil to be in the tubes on a rear axle. If your vent is blocked it maypump it into the brakes but your seal is probably blown as well.

Some front axles, such as the Dana 30 used in Jeeps have seals on either side of the differential that keepsthe oil out of the tubes.

6.

Bll Says:February 19th, 2010 at 3.57 pm

Hey,

Great write- up but I need to know how to remove the old worn out drum from the hub on my Dana 60.Your article does not describe this… I have new drums, but how do I swap them?

Thanks,

-Bill

7.

GSequoia Says:February 19th, 2010 at 4.15 pm

I don’t have the truck in front of me but by looking back at these photos I’m quite sure that you just needto press all the wheel studs out then separate the two. Because the hub has been in the drum for so longyou may find that you have to press the hub out (pressing from the outside in). Once you have the hub outof the old drum transfer it to the new one and press the studs back in (or replace them).

If you don’t have access to a press I would recommend hitting up a NAPA Auto Parts or another smalltype parts store that has a machine shop, they will usually do the press-work for a very good price.

8.

Don Says:July 24th, 2010 at 5.06 am

Thanks for the C-Clamp tip.

9.

Noob Rear brakes how to - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum Says:July 27th, 2010 at 11.23 am

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10.


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mike Says:August 3rd, 2010 at 10.26 am

when I did mine the other day, I took off the drum with the spindle still on the truck by beating the crapout of it with a rubber hammer, and after a while it broke loose.

11.

Tonys Digi-sky Cam F350 Says:September 15th, 2010 at 2.22 pm

I have a 1991 F350 4×4 that is squeaking at speeds less than 25mph. It sounded just like a U joint, so Ireplaced all 3 in the drive shaft. Well to make the story short, it still squeaks. I have been reviewing yourgreat article but I have a few concerns. I am told that the gear oil flows into the hub from the pumpkin butin your 3rd photo the axle looks dry and later your packing the bearing with grease . I know that some oilhas leaked out of one of the hubs and down the tire while it was sitting in the Arizona sun. So if the oilslightly flows out of the rear diff into the bearings, doesn’t that wash out the grease? I guess Ill find outwhen I take it all apart..

12.

Keith in NC Says:October 12th, 2010 at 7.17 am

Gasoline as a solvent???? Shame on you!!!!(It actually works really good but in a pinch, kerosene will do the trickand it’s not quite as risky!!)

13.

Jason Says:November 2nd, 2010 at 7.41 pm

Very good tutorial, I found it very simple to understand…had no problem.

14.

Hello to all and Help!! - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Says:November 21st, 2010 at 9.11 pm

[...] [...]

15.

How do I remove a drum brake, it leaks fluid? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Says:January 4th, 2011 at 6.04 pm

[...] [...]

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17.

pat Yak Says:May 14th, 2011 at 9.44 pm

Thanks a lot for posting this. Different mechanics acted like only they and God could undertake the FordF250/350 rear brake project but it turns out it is no more difficult than the fronts.Thank you again for clear instructions and large blow-up photos. Other than the grease it was fairly easy.

18.


15 of 21 9/21/11 11:03 AM

I replaced the wheel cylinders along with drums, springs and shoes.

It all started out when I bought this truck not running. When I got it working I drove it and the brakeswould lock up. After several lockups the brakes were cooked. I found out that the vacuum booster canstick in the boosted position and not let brakes relax so I was driving with the brakes on.All is well now!While at it I decided to fix an exhaust manifold downpipe stud that was too short to put one of the two nutson. After using expensive rusted breakfree, a hammer, maap gas torch and wax, and a very good studremoval tool by Titan for about $19 at Summit racing, I decided to drill a small 3/16′\ hole through theoutside of exhaust manifold exit 1/2\ in from end directly into the frozen stud. I then squirted the rustbreak free into hole and then removed it with the Titan stud removal tool and a 3/8′ flex ratchet. If anyonetries this, be sure to drill within half an inch from end as you don’t want to drill into manifold . I hadenough grip with the stud removal tool but if I had given any more pressure I would have broken off thestud and then –well I don’t want to think about removing the intake manifold, distributer and head to get atthe broken studs in someone’s driveway

Anonymous Says:September 7th, 2011 at 10.16 pm

why did you pack the barings dont thay get lubed by the gear lub

19.

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