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Don’t Waste A Drop WATER USE AND CONSERVATION BUREAU New Mexico Office of the State Engineer Finding, Fixing and Preventing Indoor Water Leaks

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D o n ’tWa s t eA Dro p

WATER USE ANDCONSERVATIONBUREAUNew Mexico Office ofthe State Engineer

Finding, Fixing andPreventing Indoor

Water Leaks

This booklet is designed to provide basicinformation about some of the mostcommon household water leaks and giveyou the practical information you need tomake simple repairs and perform preventivemaintenance that can prevent water waste.Finding and fixing water leaks will savewater and reduce your water bills. However, the information presented hereis not intended to fix major plumbingproblems or substitute for the services of a professional plumber.

WATER USE ANDCONSERVATIONBUREAUNew Mexico Office ofthe State EngineerP.O. Box 25102Santa Fe, NM 87504-51021-800-WATER-NMwww.ose.state.nm.us

Funded by a grantfrom the U.S. Bureauof Reclamation.Produced for the New Mexico Office ofthe State Engineer by SchultzCommunications,Albuquerque, NM.Designed & Illustratedby Ken Wilson Design.

February 2002 Cover photo courtesy of Delta Faucets

Some water leaks, such as a drippingfaucet, are obvious. Other water leaks can

be virtually invisible, such as a leaky toiletflapper valve or a leaky irrigation pipe inyour yard. While this brochure is notintended to address major plumbingproblems, it is designed to give you anoverview of how preventive maintenanceand diligent repair are important aspects ofwater conservation. By following the advicein this brochure, you’ll be able to conservewater while you help keep your pipes,plumbing fixtures and water-usingappliances in top shape.

Water conservation shouldn’t be somethingwe think about only during a drought. As the competition for our most pre c i o u snatural re s o u rce grows, let’s make conserv i n gwater an everyday part of life in New Mexico.

Introduction 3

Preventing Water Waste is Everyone’s Job

How Much WaterIs Leaking? Even a tiny leak canwaste thousands ofgallons of fresh waterevery month. Here’s howmuch water is wasted bydifferent kinds of leaks:

Pipe Leaks(at 60 pounds of waterpressure)

Size of Gallons WastedHole per Month

1/32” 6,3001/16” 25,0001/8” 100,0003/16” 225,0001/4” 400,000

Faucet Leaks60 drops per minute =192 gallons wasted permonth

90 drops per minute =310 gallons wasted permonth

120 drops per minute =429 gallons wasted permonth

Source: California UrbanWater Conservation Council

photo courtesy of Kohler

Awater meter keeps track of how muchwater passes through it. The readings

from your water meter determine theamount that you are billed for water usageby your water utility each month. What youmight not have realized is that a watermeter can also be a most valuable tool indetermining if you have any water leaks.

In suburban neighborhoods, most watermeters are located under a metal lid by thefront curb or sidewalk. In rural areas, thewater meter is typically located where thewater service connection enters the property.(If you can’t locate your water meter or havequestions, call your water utility.) There aretwo common types of water meters:

Straight-reading meters record either cubicfeet or gallons of water much like a carodometer records miles. The dial with thesingle hand records tenths of a cubic foot.

Circular-reading meters also record cubic feetor gallons of water. But instead of a singleline of numbers, a circular reading meter hasa series of dials that record each digit:100,000, 10,000, 1,000, 100, etc. To determinethe current reading, start with the 100,000dial and work your way down. If a dial handis between two numbers, read the lowernumber.

4

S e c t i o nO n e :Wa t e rB a s i c s

Water Meters and Leak Detection

THE TWO COMMONMETER TYPES

Straight-reading (left)Circular-reading (right)

The master water supply valve controls thewater supply to your home. It’s a good

idea to know where your master water valveis located, so you can turn off the watersupply in the event of a major leak or asneeded when making a plumbing repair.

The two most common locations for themaster supply valve are next to the watermeter or where the water supply pipe entersyour home. To shut off the water supply,slowly turn the handle clockwise. (Manywater supply valves require a special two-pronged “key” to turn the handle. Watersupply keys can be purchased at mostplumbing, hardware and home improvementstores.)

Plumbing codes now also require new housesto have a main shutoff valve inside thehouse. The valve can be located under anyplumbing fixture, but the most commonlocation is next to the water heater.

To make sure that the master valve hasindeed shut off the water, turn on a faucet.If water flows, the master valve hasn’tcompletely shut off the water.

Most homes and businesses also have shutoffvalves for the water lines that run toindividual water fixtures. For example, theshutoff valve for a toilet is located below thetoilet tank. The shutoff valves for a kitchenor bathroom faucet are located under thesink. (There is one shutoff valve for the hotwater line and another valve for the coldwater line.) The typical faucet or toiletshutoff valve has an oval handle. Turn thehandle clockwise to turn off the watersupply.

Water Basics 5

Master Valves andShutoff Valves

To use your watermeter as a leakdetector, just followthese easy steps:1. Turn off all water-using

appliances, includingyour automaticicemaker andevaporative cooler.

2. Record the reading onyour water meter.

3. Wait 30 minutes.

4. Record the newreading on your watermeter.

If the reading haschanged, you have a leak.Use the information inthis brochure to help youlocate and fix the leak.

NOTE: The water meter isthe property of your localwater utility. If the watermeter leaks, or if yoususpect that the meter isnot functioning properly,call the water utility.

Water Facts* 1 cubic foot of water =

7.48 gallons

* Most water utilities bill in“units” of water. Someutilities consider one unit tobe 100 cubic feet of water(equal to 748 gallons); otherutilities define one unit as1,000 gallons.

How much water your toilet uses dependson two factors: its tank size and its

working condition. Since 1992, federal lawhas mandated that all new toilets use nomore than 1.6 gallons per flush. If your toiletis a 3.5 gallons-per-flush model from the1980s or an even older model that uses fiveor more gallons per flush, consider replacingyour old water guzzler with a sleek, newwater-conserving 1.6 gallon unit. Somemunicipal water utilities (including the Cityof Albuquerque) offer a credit on your waterbill when you replace an old toilet with awater-efficient one.

But even the new “ultra-low-flush” toiletscan be water wasters. A leaky flapper valveor an improperly set water level in the tankcan cause significant water leakage. And notevery “running” toilet makes noise. Followthe instructions in this section to check yourtoilet for water leaks and repair theproblem.

Toilets

6

SectionTwo:FindingandFixingIndoorLeaks

Anatomy of aTypical ToiletThe most commontype of toilet is calleda “gravity-fed toilet”because it uses theweight and height ofthe water in the tankto generate the forc eneeded to flush wastet h rough the bowl. Themechanics of the basicgravity-fed toilet havenot changed much inthe past century, so agravity-fed toilet is stillrelatively easy toadjust and re p a i r.

photo courtesy of Toto

photo courtesy of Fluidmaster

Float Ball/Tank Ball Modelsa. Tank– The top portion that holds water

waiting to be flushed. Also inside are the flushmechanisms and components.

b. Tank lid– The cover that sits on the tank andconceals the flush mechanisms.

c. Bowl– The lower half of the toilet that holdswaste prior to flushing.

d. Water shutoff valve– The valve located on thewall near the base of the toilet (typically withan oval or round handle) that controls the flowof water into the toilet tank.

e. Water supply line– A hose-like line, typicallymade of flexible material, that connects thewater shutoff valve to the bottom of the tank.

f. Flush handle– The mechanism that is pushed toactivate the flush.

g. Lift arm– The metal or plastic rod connected tothe flush handle.

h. Lift wire– The connecting link between the liftarm and the tank ball.

i. Tank ball– The rubber ball that sits in the flushvalve (the hole in the bottom of the tank) tokeep water in the tank until the flush.

j. Guide arm– A fixed piece, connected to theoverflow pipe, which ensures that the tank ballfalls snugly on the flush valve.

k. Flush valve– The opening through which waterflows from the tank to the bowl.

l. Valve seat– The rubber seal at the bottom ofthe tank into which the tank ball fits.

m. Float arm– The metal or plastic rod connectedto the ball cock at one end and the float ballat the other. The angle of the float arm iswhat tells the ball cock to shut off the watersupply to the tank.

n. Float ball– A hollow rubber ball that rises andfalls with the water level in the tank.

o. Ball cock valve– The tall mechanism on theleft-hand side of the tank that controls theflow of water into the tank.

p. Overflow pipe– The vertical pipe that drainsexcess water from the tank to preventoverflow.

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Toilets 7

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Float Cup*/Flapper Modelsa. Float cup– A variation on the float ball, a float

cup performs the same basic function, risingand falling with the water level in the tank.When the float cup rises high enough alongthe ball cock tube, it triggers the ball cock tostop the flow of water into the tank.

b. Lift arm– The metal or plastic rod connected tothe flush handle.

c. Lift chain– The connecting link between the liftarm and the flapper.

d. Flapper– The flush valve seat that controls thevolume of water passing from the tank to thebowl during a flush.

e. Flush valve– The opening through which waterflows from the tank to the bowl.

* sometimes called a vertical ballcock

Float Ball/Flapper Modelsa. Float ball– A hollow rubber ball that rises andfalls with the water level in the tank.b. Lift arm– The metal or plastic rod connected tothe flush handle.c. Lift chain– The connecting link between the liftarm and the flapper.d. Flapper– The flush valve seat that controls thevolume of water passing from the tank to thebowl during a flush.

Another type of toilet is the pressure-assistedtoilet, which uses air pressure within a cylindricaltank inside the toilet tank to propel the waterduring a flush. Tuning up a pressure-assisted toiletis best left to a professional plumber.

Is Your Toilet Leaking? Give It the Dye TestEven though you might think your toilet isn’tleaking, there’s one sure-fire way to find out.Lift the lid off the toilet tank and put 10-15drops of dark-colored food dye into thetank. After 15 minutes, check the toilet bowlfor any signs of dye color. If there’s color inyour bowl, your toilet is leaking. Read on.

8

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Common Toilet ProblemsLeaks and noises are the most commonproblems with tank toilets, and the twotypes of problems are often interrelated.(However, some leaky toilets are silent.) Thegood news: many common toilet leaks canbe fixed by making minor adjustments. Let’sgo through some of the most commonreasons toilets leak and the steps you’ll needto follow to fix them.

Toilet “runs” all the time, orperiodically between flushings. (Youhear the sound of running water.)A running toilet can be caused by animproperly adjusted float ball that results ina water level in the tank that’s so high thatwater is escaping into the top of theoverflow pipe. A running toilet can also becaused by a cracked float ball, an improperlyseated flapper or tank ball, a kinked liftchain or a bent lift wire.

If the water level in the tank is too high:

Adjust the float arm.• In older toilets with a metal float arm, you’ll

need to grab the float arm with both handsand gently bend the side with the float balldownward. (illustration 1)

• If your toilet has a plastic float arm, there’sprobably an adjusting knob located where thearm meets the ball cock. Loosen the knob andmove the float arm and float ball downward.(illustration 2)

• If your toilet has a float cup instead of a floatball, pinch the spring clip on the side of thefloat cup and slide the float cup a bit lower.(illustration 3)

• Some toilets have a “floatless ball cock” thatcontrols the water level with a pressure-sensing device. To adjust the water level on afloatless ball cock, turn the adjustment screwon top of the ball cock. Turn the screwclockwise to raise the water level andcounterclockwise to lower it.

(continued next page)

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Toilets 9

Illustration 1

Illustration 2

Illustration 3

Flush the toilet and check the new waterlevel. It should be about 1/2 inch below thetop of the overflow tube (or at the lineetched on the inside back of the tank). If asimple water-level adjustment doesn’t fix theproblem, you might need to:

Replace the float ball.If the float ball is cracked, it will fill up withwater and never rise high enough to tell theball cock valve to shut off the water. Thefloat ball will be fully or partially submergedand the water level in the tank will be sohigh that water flows into the overflow pipe.• Remove the float ball by unscrewing it

counterclockwise.• Coat the threads of the float arm with

petroleum jelly.• Screw a new float ball onto the float arm.

If jiggling the handle stops the toiletfrom running:

Check the guide wire or lift chain.• For flappers with lift chains: Make sure the

chain isn’t kinked or hung up on the float armor float ball. Try adjusting the chain byhooking it into a different hole on the lift arm(which is attached to the flush handle).

• For tank balls with guide wires: Check to seethat the tank ball is fitting properly on thevalve seat. To readjust a tank ball mechanism,loosen the thumbscrew that fastens the guidearm to the overflow pipe. Reposition the armand the lift wire so that the tank ball is rightabove the flush valve.

If the water level looks fine but thedye test shows that the toilet leaks:

The two most common culprits are the valveseat, which may need to be cleaned, and theflapper (or tank ball), which may need to beadjusted, cleaned or replaced. (See nextpage.)

10

Adjust the flapper (tank ball).• Check to see if the flapper (tank ball) is fitting

properly on the valve seat. • Turn off the water shutoff valve located just

underneath the toilet tank (by turning thevalve clockwise until it stops). Then flush thetoilet to drain the tank. See if the flapper/tankball falls straight onto the flush valve opening.

• Adjust the flapper/tank ball by loosening thethumbscrew that fastens the guide arm to theoverflow pipe.

• Reposition the arm and the lift wire so that thetank ball is right above the flush valve. (Oradjust the flapper so that it will fall directlyonto the valve seat.)

Clean the flapper (tank ball) andvalve seat.If the flapper (or tank ball) is sitting correctlyin the valve seat but water is still leakinginto the bowl, the problem may be a build-up of mineral deposits on the flapper and/orvalve seat.• Turn off the water shutoff valve located just

underneath the toilet tank (by turning thevalve clockwise until it stops). Then flush thetoilet to drain the tank.

• Clean the valve seat and the flapper with finesteel wool or a plastic cleansing pad to makesure they are both smooth and free of mineraldeposits.

• Turn on the water shutoff valve and conductthe dye test again to check for leaks.

Replace the flapper (tank ball). If you’ve checked to make sure the flapper(tank ball) is correctly positioned in the valveseat and both parts are clean but you stillhave a leak, your flapper is probably worn. Aworn flapper won’t seal properly. To replacea flapper:• Turn the water shutoff valve and flush the

toilet to drain the tank. • Remove your old flapper and take it with you

to the hardware or plumbing store so you canbuy a replacement.

• Before installing the new flapper, clean thevalve seat with fine steel wool or a plasticcleansing pad to make sure it’s smooth.

• Install the new flapper. Then run the dye testagain to make sure you have fixed the leak.

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Toilets 11

NOTE: Make sure your replacement flappermatches the model and water-use requirements ofyour existing flapper. If your toilet is a 1.6 gallons-per-flush model, make sure you buy the correct1.6 gallons-per-flush flapper. Not all genericflappers work equally well. Some toilets rely on aspecific flapper to create the low-flow flush.

If the toilet STILL leaks:If none of the above procedures has fixedthe leak, or the toilet is making a high whineor whistle when the tank is filling up,consider replacing the ball cock, themechanism that controls the flow of waterinto the toilet tank. Replacement ball cocksare sold at plumbing, hardware and homeimprovement stores.

Replace the ball cock. Although it is possible to replace an olderball cock with a new one, consider replacingit with a new float cup valve, which manyplumbers prefer because it is less prone toleaking. • Turn off the water shutoff valve and flush the

toilet to drain the tank.• Disconnect the water supply tube from the

bottom of the tank.• Remove the float arm from the ball cock.• Remove the refill tube from the top of the ball

cock.• Loosen the nut under the tank that holds the

ball cock into place. If the ball cock turns whenyou try to loosen the nut, hold the ball cockwith one hand while loosening the nut underthe tank with your other hand. Once the nut isremoved, lift the ball cock out of the tank.

• Install a new float cup valve into the tank andtighten the nut on the underside of the tank.

• Attach the refill tube to the float cup and tothe overflow tube.

• Reconnect the water supply tube and turn onthe water supply.

• Adjust the float cup until the water level isabout 1/2 inch below the top of the overflowtube. To adjust the water level, simply pinchthe spring clip on the side of the cup and movethe cup higher (to raise the water level) orlower (to lower the water level.)

If none of the above procedures works, calla professional plumber!

12

The National EnergyPolicy Act of 1992set these standardsfor new fixturesmanufactured in the U.S.:• toilets use no more

than 1.6 gallons per flush

• showerheads use no more than 2.5 gallons per minute

• kitchen and bathroom faucets not exceed 2.5 gallons per minute.

Aleaky faucet is a common householdwater waster. A steady drip at the rate

of one drop per second wastes 192 gallons ofwater in a month!

The first step in fixing a leaky faucet is toidentify the faucet type. Although there arehundreds of different styles, sizes andshapes, faucets can be divided into two basictypes:

Compression faucets, sometimes called stemfaucets, always have two handles, one forhot water and one for cold water.* Whenthe handle is turned on, the stem rotates.The threads cause the stem to rise, moving arubber washer away from the faucet seatand allowing water to flow. When turningthe faucet off, you can sometimes feel therubber washer being squeezed against thefaucet seat to stop the flow of water.

*NOTE: The exceptions to this “two handles”rule are cold-water-only single faucets, suchas hose bibbs, which are also compressionfaucets.

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Faucets 13

Faucets

a. decorative capb. handle screwc. handled. retaining (packing) nute. stemf. packing washer or o-ringg. seat washerh. seat screwi. valve seat

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photo courtesy of Delta Faucets

compression faucet

Washerless faucets typically have just onehandle that controls both the hot and thecold water. Washerless faucets are known forproviding years of trouble-free servicebecause their design minimizes friction andwear. There are three primary types ofwasherless faucets:• A ball faucet has a single handle over a

dome-shaped cap.• A cartridge faucet has a narrow plastic or

metal cartridge inside the faucet body.Most cartridge faucets are single-handlemodels, but some two-handled faucetsuse cartridge designs.

• A disk faucet has a single handle and awide cylinder inside the faucet body.

Helpful Tips• Turn off the water before you start any faucet

repair. The shutoff valves for indoor faucetsare underneath the sink. Turn the left knobclockwise to shut off the hot water; turn theright knob clockwise to shut off the cold water.

• Before disassembling a faucet, cover the sinkwith a towel to protect it from dropped toolsand to prevent small parts from going downthe drain.

• When dismantling parts, line them up in theorder and orientation in which they wereremoved to make it easier to properlyreassemble the pieces.

• When using metal tools on a polished surface,protect the polished surface with a rag orseveral layers of masking tape.

• Take the old parts with you when you go to aplumbing or hardware store to buyreplacement parts. This will help ensure thatyou get the right parts for the job.

• Most faucet repair kits come with goodinstructions. Follow them!

14

Conservation FactThe flow rate of a faucet is measured ingallons per minute (gpm). Older kitchen andbathroom faucets can have a maximum flowrate of 3 to 7 gpm. Since 1992, the maximumallowable flow rate is 2.5 gpm. But nomatter how thrifty a faucet’s flow rate,leaving the tap running is a most wastefulpractice.

ball faucet handle

setscrewadjustmentring

cap

gasket

spout

o-rings

cam

ball

sealsspring

cartridgefaucet

cap

cap

mountingscrews

neopreneseals

handleassembly

retainingpivot nut

diskfaucethandle set screw

retainingclip

o-rings

cartridge

diskassembly

waterinlets

spout

spout

Fixing a compression faucetTo fix a leaking compression faucet, firstdetermine whether it’s a hot water leak or acold water leak. If you can’t tell from thetemperature of the dripping water, turn offthe hot water supply valve under the sink. Ifthe drip stops, it’s the hot water stem that’sleaking. If the drip continues, the culprit isthe cold water faucet.• Remove the handle screw. (It may be hidden

under a decorative cap or behind the handle.)Remove the handle.

• Unscrew the retaining (packing) nut.• Remove the stem by either jiggling it from the

valve seat or unscrewing it counterclockwisewith a wrench.

• To replace the washer on a standard stem,remove the seat screw at the bottom of thestem and pry out the old washer with ascrewdriver. Install a new washer.

• For some compression faucets, you’ll also needto replace the packing washer or packingstring, which prevents water from leaking atthe faucet handle.

• Check the valve seat (the metal that thewasher seals on) for damage by running yourfinger along the rim of the seat. If it’s pittedand not completely smooth, remove the valveseat using a seat wrench. Install a new valveseat.

• Reassemble the parts.

Fixing a ball faucet• With an allen wrench, loosen the setscrew at

the base of the handle. Remove the handle.• Underneath the handle you’ll find a protective

cap with an adjusting ring. Sometimes adripping ball faucet can be fixed by tighteningthis ring. Turn it clockwise gently.

• If tightening the ring doesn’t stop the leak,close both shutoff valves beneath the sink.

• Unscrew and lift off the cap, plastic cam, camgasket and rotating ball.

• Rubber faucet seats are held against thebottom of the ball by small springs. Using thepoint of a screwdriver or a pair of needle-nosepliers, gently remove the two seats andsprings. Remove any loose debris.

(continued next page)

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Faucets 15

camassembly

• Install new seats and springs from a repair kit.(Follow the instructions provided in the repairkit.) Also, lift the spout and replace the twoO-rings. (Apply a light coating of petroleumjelly or valve grease to the new O-rings beforeinstalling them.)

• Reassemble the faucet and tighten theadjusting ring enough to prevent leakswithout making the handle difficult tooperate.

Fixing a cartridge faucet• Shut off both water supply valves underneath

the sink.• Remove the decorative cap (if any) and remove

the handle screw. Remove the handle.• Unscrew the retainer nut.• Some models have a U-shaped clip that holds

in the cartridge. Use needle-nose pliers or thetip of a screwdriver to remove the clip.

• The cartridge fits tightly in the faucet body.Remove the cartridge by pulling up on it firmlywith a pair of pliers.

• Replace damaged O-rings and lubricate thenew ones with petroleum jelly or valve grease.If the cartridge is worn or damaged, replace itwith an identical part. (Cartridge repair kitstypically contain a new cartridge, new O-ringsand grease.)

• Install the new cartridge, making sure that thenotch in the stem faces the sink.

• Reattach the U-clip, retainer nut, handle,handle screw and decorative cap.

Fixing a disk faucet• Shut off both water supply valves underneath

the sink.• Remove the setscrew from the handle. Lift off

the handle and remove the body cover(escutcheon cap).

• Remove the disk assembly as a unit byunscrewing the mounting screws. Pull the diskout.

• Turn the disk over and remove any dirt lodgedbetween the ceramic disks.

• Remove the rubber seals from the cylinderopenings. Clean the cylinder openings andflush out any debris.

• Install new rubber seals and reassemble thefaucet.

• If the faucet still leaks, replace the entire diskassembly with a new one.

16

o-rings

flange

rim

Most indoor faucets have an aerator atthe tip of the faucet spout. An aerator

is a screw-on attachment with a small wirescreen that mixes tiny air bubbles into thewater to create a smooth flow. A faucetaerator is an inexpensive and efficient waterconservation device because it reduces waterflow without an apparent reduction in waterpressure or volume. Older faucets withoutaerators typically deliver water at five gallonsper minute (gpm). Newer faucets (withaerators) are required to deliver no morethan 2.5 gpm, and some water-wise faucetsdeliver just 1.5 gpm.

Clean and Replace AeratorsIf the water flow from a faucet spout ispartially blocked or the water pressure seemslow, take the aerator apart and clean it orreplace it. • Protect the chrome finish on the aerator with

masking tape or a cloth, and unscrew theaerator with pliers or a wrench.

• Clean the screen by soaking it in vinegar andscrubbing it with an old toothbrush.

• Replace the washer if it is worn out. If theaerator is visibly damaged, or if its flow rate ismore than 2.5 gpm, replace it.

• Reassemble the aerator and thread it backonto the faucet spout by hand. Gently tightenit into place with pliers or a wrench.

“Male” and “Female” AeratorsWhen replacing a faucet aerator, it’s import a n tto use the correct type for your faucet. If thet h reads are on the inside, it has “female”t h reads. If the threads are on the outside, ithas “male” thre a d s .

Faucet Aerators

There are twocommon sizes ofaerators: • If a nickel fits snugly

into the threaded end of an aerator, it’s a standard-sized aerator (15/16-inch male threads or 55/64-inch female threads).

• If a nickel doesn’t fit but a dime does, it’s a small aerator (13/16-inch male threads or 3/4-inch female threads).

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Faucet Aerators 17

Shower and tub faucets share the same basicdesigns as sink faucets. Therefore, the repairtechniques are the same. In many cases it isnecessary to take off the handle anddisassemble the faucet to identify the faucettype. Here are some general identificationguidelines: • Three-handle faucets (hot, cold and a

separate diverter valve for theshowerhead) have either compression orcartridge designs.

• Two-handle faucets (hot and cold, with ashowerhead/gate diverter on the tubspout) have either compression orcartridge designs.

• One-handle faucets have either cartridge,ball-type or disc designs.

For information on fixing a leakyshowerhead, refer to the information andillustrations in the Faucets section.

NOTE: Because some shower valves are setdeep into the wall, special tools may benecessary. If you don’t have access to thetools required for the job, call a plumber.

18

Conservation TipThe maximum flow rate ofpre-1980 showerheads inthe United States was 5 to8 gallons per minute(gpm). In the 1980s, 3 gpmshowerheads became theindustry standard. Today,2.5 gpm is the standard. Ifyou’ve got an oldershowerhead, considerreplacing it with a newwater-efficient model.

Showerheads

photo courtesy of Kohler

In recent years, dishwasher manufacturers havemade impressive strides in making their

machines more water efficient. Some newre s o u rc e - e fficient models use less than 5 gallonsper load on the normal wash setting, whileolder dishwashers can use up to 15 gallons perload. By comparison, a study conducted by OhioState University showed that 16 gallons ofwater are used to hand-wash eight placesettings and serving pieces (Buzzelli, 1991, p.57).

Although dishwasher leaks are re l a t i v e l yuncommon, the list below describes a few ofthe possible leaks and how to fix them. Form o re detailed information, consult the owner’smanual or contact a professional plumber.

Water leaks from the door.• The most likely culprit is the rubber gasket

around the door. If the gasket has cracked orbecome hard and brittle with age, replace itwith a new gasket.

Water leaks from the bottom duringthe wash cycle.• Start by checking the gasket. If it is cracked

along the bottom, replace it.• If it’s not the gasket, check the hose

connections. Remove the access panel on thefront of the dishwasher (at the bottom). Checkthe condition of the water supply hoses, andmake sure the couplings are tight and free ofleaks. Replace any worn or cracked hoses.

Dishwasher won’t stop filling.• Turn off the water supply valve and leave the

dishwasher door shut. Let the machinecomplete its wash cycle.

• Open the dishwasher door and check the floatswitch. (It’s located on the bottom of the waterpan, typically in one of the corners.) The floatshould move up and down easily. Jiggle it tosee if it will function. If the float switchdoesn’t appear to be working, replace it or calla repair service.

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Dishwashers 19

Conservation TipMaximize water efficiencyby washing only full loads,or use the correct settingfor the size of the loadand/or the type of washrequired. If you’replanning to use thedishwasher immediatelyafter a meal, consider notrinsing the dishes-justscrape them and loadthem into the dishwasher.

Dishwashers

photo courtesy of Whirlpool

In most homes, clothes washing and toiletflushing consume the most water. If you use

your clothes washing machine more thantwice a week, then washing clothes isprobably your largest indoor water-use-activity — unless you still have older (pre-1992) inefficient toilets.

Fortunately, new washing machines are morewater- and energy-efficient than ever. Whilemost older washing machines use 40 to 45gallons to wash an extra-large load, manynewer, water-thrifty models use as little as 15gallons for a full load (depending on thecapacity and model).

To make sure your washing machine is water-wise, wash only full loads and check yourmachine for leaks. Unless you have heavilysoiled items, use cold or warm water ratherthan hot water, and reduce the number ofrinses if your machine has these adjustmentfeatures. When it’s time to buy a newwashing machine, make sure you buy awater-efficient model. The most efficientmodels may cost more initially, but mostfamilies can save enough water and energyover the life of the machine to pay for theentire cost of the washer!

To fix a leaky washing machine, follow thesteps below. For more detailed information,consult the owner’s manual or contact aprofessional plumber.

Water leaks when washer is filling.• Locate the source of the leak. Start by checking

the water inlet valves. There will be one valvefor hot water and one for cold water. (Oftenthey resemble the hose bibbs that are foundoutside the house.)

• If water is leaking from the inlet valve or hosebibb, tighten the packing nut and hoseconnections with a wrench.

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Helpful Hint AboutAppliancesBecause of the widevariety of appliancebrands and the manydifferences betweenindividual models, alwaysconsult the owner’smanual before attemptingany appliance repair. Inaddition, the Internet is arich resource for trouble-shooting guides andmanufacturers’specifications. A goodstarting place for websiteinformation iswww.doityourself.com.

Washing Machines

photo courtesy of Whirlpool

• Check the inlet hoses for cracks. If necessary,replace the hoses.

• Check the nozzle hose (inside the machine,connected to the inlet valve). Replace it if it iscracked.

Machine leaks when full.• Check the pump hoses for loose connections or

cracks. (To access the pump hoses, unplug themachine, turn off water supply valves, removesupply hoses, and remove the rear servicepanel.)

• If the connections are tight and the hoses areintact, the pump may be faulty and needreplacement. Locate the source of the leak.Start by checking the water inlet valves. Therewill be one valve for hot water and one forcold water. (Often they resemble the hosebibbs that are found outside the house.)

Water Heaters

Water heaters heat and store water —usually from 30 to 50 gallons — for

on-demand use. To prevent and fixpotentially serious water heater leaks,follow the basic maintenance tips below.

Conduct a Visual InspectionMost water heaters provide trouble-freeperformance for many years, but it’s still agood idea to inspect your water heaterperiodically for possible leaks or otherproblems. Start by looking for leaks at thebase of the water heater. Examine thepiping, and tighten any loose connections. Ifwater is leaking from the drain valve or thetemperature-pressure relief valve, read thesections that follow. If water is leakingthrough the tank itself, replace the waterheater as soon as possible.

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Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Water Heaters 21

EnergyConservation TipSet the water heaterthermostat to 120° F.You’ll save energy andprevent accidental scaldingfrom too-hot water.

photo courtesy of A.O. SmithWater Products

Fixing a Leaky Drain ValvePerhaps the most common water heaterleaks occur at the drain valve. Sometimestightening the valve (by turning the knobclockwise) will stop the leak. If that doesn’twork, consider one of these options:• If the leaking drain valve is brass, replace the

packing washer or stem washer. (See theFaucets section for a detailed description.)

• Install a brass hose cap (with a rubber hosewasher inside) onto the threads of the drainpipe. Tighten the hose cap with pliers to get agood, water-tight seal.

• If the drain valve is plastic, consider replacing itwith a 3/4-inch ball valve or hose bibb, which isless likely to leak.

Check the Temperature-PressureRelief ValveBy regulation, all domestic water heaters areequipped with a temperature-pressure reliefvalve (TPRV) that automatically opens whenthe temperature and/or pressure in the waterheater gets dangerously high. If the valve isconstantly dribbling water, the thermostatmay be set too high. Adjust the dial to alower setting.

If water still dribbles from the TPRV, thevalve may be stuck open slightly. Place abucket below the discharge pipe, then liftthe lever on top of the valve a few times tolet some water run out. If the valve stillleaks, replace it. (If you’re not comfortablewith major do-it-yourself plumbing projects,call a professional plumber.)

NOTE: Some TPRV valves can leak by designbecause of thermal expansion. (Heated waterexpands to fill more space than cold water.)Check the owner’s manual for your waterheater for more information.

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photos courtesy of A.O. SmithWater Products

Drain Valve

Temperature Relief Valve

Some homeowners choose to install waterfilters to purify their drinking water, andsome homes have water softeners to remove“hardness” (i.e., calcium and magnesium, theminerals that lead to soap-curd deposits inthe bathtub and sinks, spots on dishes, andscaly deposits on faucets, showerheads, andinside the water heater and pipes).

Water requirements for water softenerregeneration vary from 15 to 120 gallons ofwater softened. Automatic water softenersuse the most water, because they have atimer that automatically initiates theregeneration cycle whether or not the wateris used. Demand-control softeners use theleast water because they monitor water flowor changes in hardness to adjustregeneration to the actual demand forwater. (When replacing an existing watersoftener, choose a demand-control softenerif possible.)

Even under the best circumstances, waterfilters and water softeners can be notoriouswater users. To prevent leaks in water filtersand softeners, regularly inspect supply tubes,pipes and connections. Tighten any loosefittings and replace any worn or brokenparts.

Finding and Fixing Indoor Leaks: Water Softeners 23

Water Filters &Softeners

photo courtesy of Kinetico

Want More Information About WaterConservation?Contact the following municipalities,government departments, and organizationsto receive more information about how youcan conserve water:

New Mexico Office of the State EngineerWater Use and Conservation Bureau 1-800-WATER-NM (1-800-928-3766)www.ose.state.nm.us

City of AlbuquerqueWater Conservation Office (505) 768-3655 www.cabq.gov

City of Santa Fe Sangre de Cristo Water Division (505) 954-7199 www.ci.santa-fe.nm.us

WaterWiser National Water Conservation Clearinghousewww.waterwiser.org

Sources:The Complete Guide to Home Plumbing, Black & Decker,Creative Publishing International, Minnetonka,Minnesota, 1998.

Do It! Fix Your Plumbing, Edited by Mary Yee, ChronicleBooks, San Francisco, California, 1994.

Ortho’s Home Repair Problem Solver, Ortho Books, SanRamon, California, 1995.

Plumbing, Time-Life Books, New York, New York, 1989.

Practical Plumbing Handbook, California Urban WaterConservation Council, May 2001.

WATER USE ANDCONSERVATIONBUREAUNew Mexico Office ofthe State EngineerP.O. Box 25102Santa Fe, NM 87504-51021-800-WATER-NMwww.ose.state.nm.us