cypress hill neighborhood abandoned by military

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20 The BesT of MonTerey Bay 2008 • 2009 www. bestofmontereybay. com getting oriented neighborhoods F rom the fog-cooled coastline of the bay, to the lush and green pastures of the Salinas Valley, to the jagged mountains of Big Sur, one thing is cer- tain: Monterey County is home to some pretty varied geography. But the cultural landscape is equally diverse. Each little town and neighborhood bears the stamp of its own character and history, much of which can be traced back to the first European contact more than 400 years ago. The city of Monterey is the historic heart of the region. It was here, in 1602 — five years before the British established the Jamestown colony on Virginia’s coast — that Spanish explorers first sailed into the harbor where Fisherman’s Wharf now stands. Over the years, Monterey grew to become a vital hub of European culture and commerce on the West Coast, eventually including California’s first military post and mission north of San Diego. After passing from Spanish to Mexican to American hands, the state’s first constitution was drafted at Colton Hall in 1849. The imprint of those early years remains on the nearby towns. The cattle that grazed the Salinas Valley during the Mexican rancho period gave way to grain, then sugar beets and finally lettuce, ultimately positioning Salinas as the county’s commercial center and a national agricultural capital. Carmel, for years a tiny hamlet in the shadow of the Mission San Carlos de Borroméo del Rio Carmelo, is still quiet and quaint. Rugged Big Sur, so formidable to the first explorers, remains sparsely inhabited by an intrepid assortment of artists, free spirits and descendants of old California families. The range is as varied as the terrain itself. This section serves as a brief introduction to the people and places that make Monterey County what it is.

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Page 1: Cypress Hill Neighborhood Abandoned by Military

20 The BesT of MonTerey Bay 2008 • 2009 w w w.bestofmontere ybay.com

getting orientedneighborhoods

From the fog-cooled coastline of the bay, to the lush and green pastures of the Salinas Valley, to the jagged mountains of Big Sur, one thing is cer-tain: Monterey County is home to some pretty varied geography. But the

cultural landscape is equally diverse. Each little town and neighborhood bears the stamp of its own character and history, much of which can be traced back to the first European contact more than 400 years ago.

The city of Monterey is the historic heart of the region. It was here, in 1602 — five years before the British established the Jamestown colony on Virginia’s coast — that Spanish explorers first sailed into the harbor where Fisherman’s Wharf now stands. Over the years, Monterey grew to become a vital hub of European culture and commerce on the West Coast, eventually including California’s first military post and mission north of San Diego. After passing from Spanish to Mexican to American hands, the state’s first constitution was drafted at Colton Hall in 1849.

The imprint of those early years remains on the nearby towns. The cattle that grazed the Salinas Valley during the Mexican rancho period gave way to grain, then sugar beets and finally lettuce, ultimately positioning Salinas as the county’s commercial center and a national agricultural capital. Carmel, for years a tiny hamlet in the shadow of the Mission San Carlos de Borroméo del Rio Carmelo, is still quiet and quaint. Rugged Big Sur, so formidable to the first explorers, remains sparsely inhabited by an intrepid assortment of artists, free spirits and descendants of old California families. The range is as varied as the terrain itself.

This section serves as a brief introduction to the people and places that make Monterey County what it is.

Page 2: Cypress Hill Neighborhood Abandoned by Military

For more than 50 years, Tickle Pink Inn has graced this enchanting setting in

Carmel Highlands, drawing travelers from around the world. From the moment you

arrive, a complimentary bottle of champagne ignites a romantic mood while you

settle into one of 35 luxuriously appointed rooms or suites, each with stunning

ocean views. Many also offer private balconies, wood-burning fireplaces, and

in-room spas. Let the natural beauty captivate, renew, and inspire your senses.

Tickle Pink Inn • 155 Highland Drive • Carmel, CA 93923 • Reservations: 866-598-4578 • www.ticklepinkinn.com

High atop rugged cliffs overlooking the untamed Pacific and the lush Carmel Highlands, a romantic hideaway awaits…

Page 3: Cypress Hill Neighborhood Abandoned by Military

(neighborhoods)

w w w.bestofmontere ybay.com The BesT of MonTerey Bay 2008 • 2009 21

big surFrom Carmel Mission, Father Junipero Serra

and his fellow Spanish settlers could see the raging ocean and steep cliffs of el pais grande del sur — “the big country to the south.” In due time, the phrase was shortened and Spanglified to Big Sur and the place itself immortalized in the memoirs of travelers and artists, most famously Henry Miller and Jack Kerouac.

The winding drive down Highway 1 will thoroughly acquaint you with some breathtak-ing views of the Pacific Ocean, framed by rocky cliffs covered in soaring redwoods. On the way, you’ll pass dozens of campgrounds, lodges, hotels, restaurants, and miles of hiking trails.

(attractions)Henry Miller Memorial Library, Andrew Molera State Park, Garrapatta State Beach, Point Sur Lighthouse, Esalen Institute, Nepenthe Restaurant, whale watching, horseback riding.

cannery rowAs John Steinbeck described it in his 1945

novel, “Cannery Row in Monterey in California is a poem… a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream.” Of course, the place Steinbeck described was still known as “The Sardine Capital of the World.” In its post-Depression heyday, 19 canneries worked over-time to process the annual sardine catch, which at its peak amounted to nearly a quarter- million tons of fish.

After the industry collapsed in the 1950s, a group of businessmen revived Cannery Row, converting the abandoned canneries into hotels, restaurants and a lively shopping district. Today this vibrant and colorful section of town serves as a monument to the folksy characters that filled the pages of Steinbeck’s novel.

The award-winning Monterey Bay Aquarium is a must-see, with unique marine displays and a towering kelp forest tank. There’s also a scenic bike trail that connects Cannery Row to downtown Monterey.

(attractions)Monterey Bay Aquarium, Coast Guard Pier at San Carlos Beach, the bike trail, diving, snorkeling, restaurants, night-clubs, shopping, museums, wine tasting.

carMeL | carMeL VaLLeyPicturesque Carmel-by-the-Sea was already

an artists’ colony when the 1906 earthquake struck San Francisco, displacing Bay Area bohemians who traveled south and swelled the town’s population and reputation. Today few artists can afford to live in the place that elected Clint Eastwood mayor, but Carmel still has one of the largest concentrations of art gal-leries in the country.

A stroll down shop-lined Ocean Avenue ends at Carmel Beach, a crescent of silky white sand lined with cypress trees and showpiece homes. Just south of town lies the Carmel Mission, established in 1771, the second mission built in California. It became the headquarters of Father Junipero Serra, and ultimately his burial place—under the sanctuary floor after his death in 1784.

An afternoon drive through bucolic Carmel Valley is a perfect way to escape the coastal fog. The sunny weather and rural charm rival those of Napa’s wine country, and many local wineries host tasting rooms. Garland Ranch Regional Park, near Carmel Valley Village, has miles of superb hiking trails.

(attractions)Point Lobos State Park, Carmel Beach, Ocean Avenue, Tor House, Carmel Mission, Outdoor Forest Theater, Garland Ranch Regional Park, art and photog-raphy galleries, restaurants, wineries, shopping.

MarinaMarina began life as Paddonville in 1915

but wasn’t incorporated as a city until 60 years later. It served as a bedroom commu-nity for hundreds of military families who were stationed at the Fort Ord Army base until the sprawling installation was closed in 1994.

Marina’s chief attractions lie along its quiet coast, where a pedestrian walkway leads through a native plant restoration project and a paved bike path (part of a stretch from Pacific Grove to Castroville) cruises past the hang gliders launching off the sand dunes of Marina State Beach. Marina is also home to the Salinas River National Wildlife Refuge, with its abundance of bird life and wildflowers. The windy beach here is rarely crowded, but watch for currents.

(attractions)Marina Dunes Natural Preserves, Marina State Beach, Salinas River National Wildlife Refuge, kite flying, hang gliding, ethnic foods.

MonTereyOriginally the capital city of Spain’s Alta

California colony, Monterey is to the West Coast what the settlements of Jamestown and Williamsburg are to the East Coast. Although rich in small-town charm, Monterey nonethe-less retains a distinct feel of cosmopolitan diversity thanks to the successive waves of Chinese, Japanese and Sicilian fishermen in the 19th century, followed in the 20th century by international students and faculty at the Monterey Institute of International Studies, the Naval Postgraduate School and the Defense Language Institute.

Today, Monterey is the perfect place to stroll down streets lined with historic adobes or while away time on colorful Fisherman’s Wharf watching seals and sea otters splashing in the harbor. The celebrated local cuisine—fresh seafood, Monterey County wines and veggies from local farms — is available in dozens of fine restaurants and at the farmers market that fills downtown every Tuesday. Visitors will find live jazz, rock and comedy in clubs along Alvarado Street, Lighthouse Avenue and Cannery Row.

(attractions)Fisherman’s Wharf, Custom House Plaza, Colton Hall, Alvarado Street, MY Museum, Jack’s Peak, historic adobes, street festivals, restaurants, shopping, whale watching, self-guided historic walk.

Moss LanDingHalfway up the Monterey Bay coast, beneath

the towering smokestacks of the nearby power plant, lies the fishing village that time forgot. Locals know picturesque Moss Landing as a place to surf or buy fresh seafood, and as the home of two world-renowned marine research institutes. But Moss Landing also has abun-dant charms for visitors: a leisurely pace, a

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www.oldtownsalinas.com • (831) 758-0725

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row of antique stores, bed and breakfasts, and seafood restaurants and cafés to satisfy any craving.

Outdoor types can take advantage of whale-watching tours or kayak in the Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve, home to a fascinating array of bird and plant life.

(attractions)Elkhorn Slough, Salinas River National Wildlife Refuge, antiques, restaurants, whale watching.

PACIFIC GROVEFounded in 1875 as a Methodist summer

retreat, “P.G.” is known for its many well-pre-served Victorian homes and the thriving popu-lation of Monarch butterflies that have earned the cozy burg its nickname, “Butterflytown, U.S.A.”

History buffs can visit the Point Pinos Lighthouse, the oldest continuously operat-ing beacon on the California coast. Even the downtown shopping district on Central and Lighthouse avenues, with numerous antique shops and elegantly crafted bed-and-breakfast inns, is reminiscent of a bygone era. Lovers Point, a city park just blocks from downtown, presents an excellent place to picnic and enjoy the panorama of Monterey Bay.

(attractions)Asilomar State Beach, Lovers Point, Museum of Natural History, P.G. Municipal Golf Links, butterflies, historic bed and breakfasts, diving, kayaking, res-taurants, shopping.

PEBBLE BEACHPebble Beach emerged as a mecca for golf-

ers after development of the Del Monte Lodge and Pebble Beach Golf Links in 1919. Today, the name Pebble Beach is synonymous with golf and gorgeous scenery. A private enclave of multimillion-dollar homes, Pebble Beach yields breathtaking views along 17-Mile Drive. The scenic route passes by the iconic Lone Cypress and Bird Rock and winds through Del Monte Forest, one of the last indigenous stands of Monterey pine.

World-class restaurants, spas and shops make their home in Pebble Beach, which also hosts high-profile horse competitions and the Concours d’ Elegance, one of the automotive world’s favorite parties.

(attractions)Stillwater Cove, 17-Mile Drive, the Pebble Beach Lodge, the Lone Cypress, Spyglass Hill, Spanish Bay, world-class golfing, bicycling.

SALINAS | SALINAS VALLEYSuperb soil and warm winters make the

Salinas Valley so ideal for growing lettuce that it’s been nicknamed “The Salad Bowl of the World.” Wine grapes are quickly catching up; Monterey County grows almost 40,000 acres of grapes a year to Napa’s 45,000, much of the land in the southern Salinas Valley. Many of the critically acclaimed wineries offer tours and tastings.

As Monterey County’s center of government and a major agribusiness hub, Salinas features numerous shopping, dining and lodging possi-bilities. Its historic Oldtown district is undergo-ing a revitalization that kicked off in 1998 with the opening of the National Steinbeck Center, a celebration of native son John Steinbeck’s life in letters. Main Street is lined with shops and cafes, and plays host to the First Fridays Art Walk on the first Friday of each month.

(attractions)National Steinbeck Center, Main Street in Oldtown Salinas, Pinnacles National Monument, wineries, California Air Show, California Rodeo.

SEASIDE | SAND CITYSeaside’s claim to fame is an impressive

variety of authentic ethnic restaurants. It also boasts beautiful parks, beaches and a sweep-ing stretch of the regional Recreation Trail. CSU Monterey Bay is located on 2,000 acres of the decommissioned Fort Ord.

Thousands of people drive to Sand City daily, although only about 300 people live there! Locals do much of their shopping at the Edgewater shopping center, which houses Costco, Office Depot, Orchard Supply Hardware, Target and Borders.

(attractions)Laguna Grande Park, ethnic restaurants, coastal Recreation Trail, golf courses, CSUMB World Theater, big box retail and other shopping.

(neighborhoods)

22 The BesT of MonTerey Bay 2008 • 2009 w w w.bestofmontere ybay.com

www.elkhornslough.com

See seals, sea otters and thousands of birds from a relaxing, stable pontoon boat.

(831) 633-5555

Nature Tours

Page 6: Cypress Hill Neighborhood Abandoned by Military

Jack and Grace Beigle

“We’re having a ball living life our way.”Happily settled at Canterbury Woods, former Pismo Beach

residents Jack and Grace Beigle have found a welcoming home with fellow

residents that share their active lifestyle. Newfound friends like Dawn Cope

make Canterbury Woods a place that’s more about “community”

and less about “retirement”. There’s something fun to do every day.

Call Canterbury Woods today and learn more about our private cottages,

apartment homes, and worry-free Life Care program. Life is meant to be lived your way.

831-657-4193 • www.jtm-esc.org 651 Sinex Avenue • Pacific Grove, CA 93950A fully accredited, nondenominational, not-for-profit retirement community, owned and operated by Episcopal Senior Communities.

License: 270708224 COA #89