cycle sewing machines

8/8/2019 Cycle Sewing Machines

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Cycle sewing machines

Simple automatics


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Cycle sewing machinesMachines that sew short,automatic cycles

Buttonhole Button sew

Bar tack

Label


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Button hole machine


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Button hole machine


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Variables in buttonhole machine

Size of button hole

Form of button hole The stitch type

Stitch bight

Stitch density Cut before/cut after

Presence /absence of gimp


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Eyelet and straight buttonholes with or

without taper


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Button hole types Bound button holes

Loop buttonholes Straight button holes

Key buttonholes


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Lockstitch / Chain stitch Security

Finished appearance Relative cost (capital and operating)

Garment type


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cut before/cut after selector


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Cut before /cut after Finished Appearance

Repositioning is possible after cyclebegins

Fabric flagging slightly at the edge

e.g.:formal jacketsjeans


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Gimp Stiff thread positioned at the edge of

buttonhole

Provides reinforcement to preserve itsshape

Provides bulk to raise the the purl effectof the stitch


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Button sew machinesVariables

No. of holes2

4

Form of stitchingParallel

Cross-over


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Variables Size and shape of the button

1 Ligne = 1/40 of an inchBridge is a distance from end of the

shank to the edge of the hole

This is the distance needle must travel toattach the shanked button.


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Button types Holed buttons

Wrapped thread shank Shanked buttons

Tacked buttons(Cap,Disk,Shank andTack)


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Variables Shank

1.

Without shank2. Thread shank Spacing finger

3. With shank

Stitch typeLock stitch

Chain stitch


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Variables Hooper feed automatically feed button from

the Hooper, face-up, into the tube,that

carries to button clamp. Sequential machines - Automatic system have

button indexers with automatic spacers thatmoves garment for placement of multiple

button Button hole with hand sewn appearance

stitch type -209


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Motors Two types of motors

1. Clutch motors

2. Continuous running motors

Continuous running motors is used for stopmotion sewing machine that do specific no.

of stitches in a given pattern. Eg., button hole, button sew, bar tack, etc.


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Specifications: Needle:TQ*1 Size-16; TQ*7 Size-16

(14 to 16)

Oil :Defrix Oil no.1 Movement of Button holder while

attaching:Sidewise and then forward andthen again sidewise.

Looper:Blind looper or spreader.Looper doesnot carry thread but helps the needle to formloop.

Movement of needle and looper


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Feed - Platform feed Carries the fabric on platform which is situate

above the machine bed

Plane of platform is parallel to bed plane Platform resembles miniature pancake

spatula

It has a needle hole or slot and it is called as

kinetic throat plate Platform feed has foot clamp as

complementary foot link to secure the fabricduring feed cycle


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Stitch length and width Setting no.of stitches by changing

CAM knob and lever.

Stitch length is regulated by changinglength of feed thrust

Stitch width is regulated by controlling

length of needle vibration


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Placement Button

Button hole


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Measuring Up

For a flat button, the buttonhole length should be the diameter of the button, plus

1/8".

For fat buttons, add the button's height and

width, plus 1/8".


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Bar tacking Sew number of stitches across the point

to be reinforced and then stitch

covering stitch over and right angle tothe first stitches


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Variables No. of tacking stitch

No. of covering stitch

Zigzag / purl stitch


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Usage End of button holes

End of pocket opening

Bottom of flies

Sewing on belt loops

Crotch seams Government, military, and emergencyservice uniforms are heavily bar tacked


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Manufacturers Feiyue

Juki

Brother

Taiko


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Label sewers Stitching simple zig-zag stitches.

Profile stitchers

Specially shaped cylinder bed machine

Automatic lockstitch machine


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Manufacturers Juki

Brother

Taiko

cycle sewing machines

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