cutting room planning

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Gen-Prom, UNDP 1 KSA-Technopak

Guidelines

Fabric Store and Cutting Room Management

KSA-Technopak

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Title Page No.

General Introduction 3

Section A - Fabric Store 4

• Process Flow Chart • Fabric Store Activity Chart

Section B - Cutting Room 6

• Process Flow Chart • Process Description • Cutting Room Activity Chart

Material Movement 11

Material Storage 12 Annexure 15

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General Introduction

The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of materials into the necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments. Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consists of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments may be drawn on a paper marker placed on top of the lay, or information as to their shape and position may be held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on a paper marker or used to drive an automatic cutter.

Why cutting room management is so important? Cutting room is an extremely important section in the garment manufacturing process which has a major impact on the profitability of the business. Following are the few reasons which describe the importance of the efficient management of the cutting room in garment manufacturing process:

• Cutting room being the feeding point to the factory has massive impact on all the further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing, finishing etc.

• Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensures smooth flow of work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the utilization of the available resources.

• Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest contributor to the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of the fabric will have a huge affect on the margins of the orders.

• Cutting being the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the foundation of quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in cutting process can result in non-conformance of the quality standards of all further processes.

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FABRIC STORE 1. Process Flow Chart:

Fabric Inspection

Reject RacksReject Racks

Lab Test

Reject / Held For Decision

Reject

Pass

Approval

Bulk Lot submission

YN

GSM Confirmation Lot cardsLab Test

Quarantine

AreaApproved

Not Approved

Approved

Not Approved

Fabric Inspection

Not Approved

Approved Pass RacksPass Racks

Reject RacksReject Racks

Bulk lotApproval

card

In house

GreigeFabricRegister

Merchandiser Approval

MerchandiserApproval

ApprovedLabDip

ProcessedFabric receipt

Register

Knitting Reconciliation

Register

GSMReport

Greige Fabric Rolls received

Quarantine Area Pass RacksKnitter

Fabric weight/ GSM Confirmation

Pass Pass Processors

Greige Fabric Receiptregister

**PurchaseOrder / Indent

Approvedswatch

GreigeFabric Insp.

Report

Greige Fabric Rolls receivedGreige Fabric Rolls received

Quarantine Area Quarantine Area Pass RacksPass RacksKnitter Knitter

Fabric weight/ GSM Confirmation

Pass Pass Processors Processors

Greige Fabric ReceiptRegister

PurchaseOrder / Indent

Approvedswatch

GreigeFabric Insp.

Report

Fabric Insp.Report

TestReport

TestReport

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2) Fabric Storage The fabric as received from the processing is kept in the quarantine area before storing in heavy duty fabric storage racks. It is the responsibility of fabric stores in-charge to store the fabric safely & correctly. The fabric stores in charge records every day fabric stock in Fabric Stock Register. 3) Fabric Inspection Before issuing the fabric to any further process proper inspection is carried out for the received lot of fabric to judge whether the quality of the received fabric is as per the approved standards or not. The inspection should be done as explained in the audit report. Only approved quality fabric is issued to the next process. Along with the physical quality inspection certain lab test like GSM, colour fastness, shrinkage etc are also carried out on the fabric. Fabric is classified as pass only if the test result conforms to the set standards. 4) Fabric Issue Fabric after inspection is kept in different racks as per the result of the inspection carried out. Based on the results of the inspection the fabric is classified under 3 different categories, which are:

• Pass • Reject • On hold

Fabric under these 3 categories should be kept in different racks to avoid any mixing and all racks should have proper information of the fabric being stored in them for easy access. The fabric department issues the fabric to the cutting department against Fabric Requisition Slip and makes the entry in Fabric Issue Register. C. Fabric Stores Activity Chart Meet the requirement of

the various departmentsStores In -Charge Issue Stocks

Quality measurement of the received material

Stores In -Charge Check Receipts

Output ResourcesActivity

Meet the requirement of the various departments

Stores In -Charge Issue Stocks

Quality measurement of the received material

Stores In -Check Receipts

Output ResourcesActivity

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CUTTING ROOM a. CUTTING PROCESS FLOW CHART

Cuts Indent

Cutting Plan

Pattern Copy

Fabric Details

Fabric Request Fabric Request

Fabric Receipt Fabric Receipt

Pilot Run ApprovalPilot Run Approval

Request Marker Request Marker

Marker Receipt Marker Receipt

Lay Planning

Cut order and Lay Planning

CheckingChecking

Parts ReplacementParts Replacement

Issuance of Cuts/ Excess Fabric

Issuance of Cuts

Not O.K.

O.K.

Cutting Report

Cutting Worksheet

Lay Reconciliation

Report

Spreading

CutCuttingBundlingBundling

Lay order Report

Cutting Audit ReportIssue

Register

End Bits Register

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b. PROCESS DESCRIPTION 1) Cutting Planning: Cutting Room Planning is very important and should be done for every order. Good planning helps in better utilization of available resources and improving cutting room efficiencies. The cutting plan should be made well in advance to allocate resources and check on fabric availability & flow for the planned cutting. Various things that should be kept in mind while making cutting plan are:-

i) Requirements of sewing room ii) Availability & flow of raw-material i.e. fabric iii) Available Manpower iv) Constraints of work-place

2) Cutting Work order: The planning department issues a cutting work order to the cutting department for commencing cutting for any particular order. The work order states the size wise quantity to be cut in that style and the fabric required for the total quantity mentioned in the work order. The cutting In-charge makes a daily cutting plan for the work order quantity and does the resource allocation. The work order also gives an estimate of the fabric that should be taken from the fabric store. 3) Fabric Receipt: The cutting room in charge requests fabric from the fabric store based on the daily cutting plan made by the cutting room executive. The fabric is requested using Fabric Requisition Slip format. The cutting room helper gets the fabric from the stores & transfers it to cutting room with the help of fabric movement trolley. The fabric received is stored in the fabric racks within the cutting-room. 4) Fabric Relaxation The fabric received in the roll form should be relaxed for at least 12 hours under standard conditions before spreading. This is done in order to take out any tension in the fabric imparted during finishing or winding so as to avoid any distortion while spreading or cutting.

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5) Marker Request The Cutting Executive requests the marker from the CAD department on a format called CAD Marker Requisition Slip. The details of the fabric (e.g. width) received from fabric store needs to be provided to the CAD room for marker so that the provided marker could be adjusted as per the received fabric to minimise wastage. 6) Spreading & Marking Before Spreading, the lay plan should be prepared & a lay order slip is generated by the cutting executive. The lay order slip provides all relevant details to the spreader for the lay i.e. style, fabric width, no. of plies, marker way, consumption for that lay etc. The spreader has to follow the lay-order slip for considerations during spreading & if she founds any deviations in the actual, it should be reported to the cutting executive. After the spreading is done, the lay should be checked by the QC and a format called Cutting Room Inspection Report is generated. After the lay is cleared by the QC, it goes for next operation i.e. marking. The marking could be done manually by patterns or paper marker could be fixed on top ply to make it ready for manual cutting. 7) Cutting The ready to cut lay is moved onto the area allocated for cutting within the spreading & cutting table. Air-flotation table is used for easy movement of lays. The cutter cuts the lay with the straight-knife along the marker lines. For any small parts or sharp turns, where precision can’t be achieved by straight knife, the parts can be taken to band knife after block-cutting. For some styles (e.g. engineered stripes) where lay cutting is not possible due to matching of stripes, single piece cutting is done with the help of scissors. 8) Numbering & Bundling Once the lay is cut the cut parts are numbered, all parts that makes one complete garments are given same number so as to avoid any mismatching of shade. After numbering the pieces are bundled into a group of certain pieces. The size of the bundle is decided by the cutting-room in charge, in discussion with the sewing floor in charge. 9) Quality Audit All bundles need to be audited for quality before issuing to the sewing lines. Quality audit on the bundled garments is done by the cutting-room auditor who checks the bundles for bundle ticket descriptions, correct sequence of ply numbers, presence of all parts etc. as

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mentioned in the format. The second audit checks for the pieces w.r.t. the shade matching, notch positioning, etc. These audits are conducted following the AQL chart specifications & a format called Cutting Section Bundle Audit is filled. 10) Issue to the Sewing Line The cut bundles are issued to the sewing line on request from sewing line supervisor. Detail for issued pieces is maintained in the Cutting Issue Register. The cutting issue register records the size wise issue to each line for a particular order. Along with the bundles the cutting department also gives to the sewing line a format called Production Issue Slip containing details of the bundles issued like bundle no, size, no of pieces etc.

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C. Cutting Activity Chart:

Check the bundles for conformity Checkers/QC Random Audit

To meet the cutting plan. Cutting In charge Issue Pilot Run

To meet the cutting plan Cutting In-charge Cutting

Preparation for cutting Spreaders Spreading

Prepare the cuts for issuance Bundling Helper Bundling/ Ticketing

Achieve optimum utilisation of cutting resources.

Cutting Executive Lay Planning

Availability of marker according to the usable width of the fabric.

Cutting Executive Request Marker

To meet the cutting plan. Cutting In charge Issue Bulk cut

Availability of fabric as per the cutting plan

Cutting Executive/Cutting In Charge

Request Fabric

Output Resources Activity

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MATERIAL MOVEMENT Fabric store and cutting room involves lot of material movement between different operations. The material i.e. fabric is in the form of heavy rolls therefore specially designed material movement equipments are required for saving time and manpower. Following is the list of certain material movement that take place in Fabric store & Cutting room with suggested mode of movement.

Item Description From To Material Movement Equipment

Fabric Fabric Unloading Vehicle Quarantine Area Fabric Trolley

Fabric Fabric Movement Quarantine Area

Inspection Machine

Fabric Trolley

Fabric Fabric Movement (Pass/Rejected)

Inspection Machine

Racks Fabric Trolley

Fabric Fabric Movement Racks Spreading Table Fabric Trolley

Cutting Waste Packed in sacks Cutting table Waste storage room

Waste sack Trolley

Cut Parts Cut parts movement CNC table Fusing Machine Bakers Trolley

Cut Parts Cut parts movement CNC table Numbering Table Bakers Trolley

Cut Parts Cut parts movement Numbering Table

Bundling Table Bakers Trolley

Bundles Cut parts movement Bundling Table

Audit Table Bakers Trolley

Audited Bundles

Cut parts movement Audit Table Sewing Lines Bakers Trolley

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MATERIAL STORAGE Proper housekeeping is an important compliance feature and improves the overall working environment of the company as well. Work in progress (WIP) generated at different stages of operations should be identified along with the quantity of the material to be stored. The storage medium should be selected as per the nature of the material, process and also the subsequent operations to have ease of working and to reduce the wastages that occur due to improper storage.

Material Description Storage Type

Fabric Fabric rolls Heavy duty multi level metal racks

Cut Parts Bundled parts for audit Multi level bakers trolley

Cut Parts Bundled parts for issuing to sewing

Multi level bakers trolley

End Bits Balance fabric from rolls Multi level metal racks

Pattern Patterns for an style Pattern trolley

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Fabric Store- Space Requirement for Fabric Stores

The fabric store area should be calculated based on the assumption that how many days of fabric inventory company wants to keep and the kind of storage arrangements available for the fabric store. Let’s understand this with the help of an example: Fabric WIP in days = 7 Total fabric weight = 50,000 kg Average fabric roll weight = 25 kg No. of rolls for 7 days inventory = 50,000 / 25 = 2,000 rolls No. of rolls that comes in one rack = 75 No. of racks required = 2,000 / 75 = 27 racks Area is required for one rack = 42 sq ft Area required for 27 racks = 42 X 27 = 1,134 sq ft Now, other areas like aisle space, cabin area, space for inspection machines etc. should be added into this to get the final area of the fabric store. As a thumb rule the calculated area should be multiplied by 2.5 to get the total fabric store area. Total fabric store area = 1,134 X 2.5 = 2,835 sq ft The layout of the fabric store should be made after the calculating the number of racks or any other kind of proposed storage required. While designing the layout pf the fabric store enough aisle space between two racks so as to facilitate easy movement of material movement equipment and manpower. Space should be allocated for quarantine area for keeping the fabric immediately after receiving.

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Cutting Room- Space Requirement for Cutting Room: The cutting room should have enough space to house all necessary equipments and manpower, to add to it the cutting room should have sufficient space for storing fabric rolls of running lays and cut bundles and WIP of at least one day of feeding for the sewing section. As a thumb rule, the cutting room area should be equivalent to 40% of the sewing section area. For e.g. If sewing section area is 10,000 sq ft, then Cutting room area = 10,000 X 40% = 4,000 sq ft It should be noted that this area is exclusive of the fabric storage area. The layout of the cutting room should be made so as to have forward flow of work and to avoid backward movement of the material between different operations. There should be provision for parking the trolleys and storage racks for storing the end bits and WIP.

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ANNEXURE

Piece Quality Control Inspection Report

Fabric Supplier Total rolls received Reject Shipment Date of Inspection Total yards Insp Accept ShipmentStyle no/ Priority No. Total penalty points Inspected byRequire GSM Points per 100 square meter

Roll Colour Width GSM Shade Penalty points Total Point Rejection CommentsNumber Ordered Actual On roll Actual Ordered actual diff Hole Soil Fabric points per 100

Minimum Maximum yards defect yards

Points per 100 sq meters : Total Points X GSM X 100Weight

Length

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Fabric Checking Sticker

Fabric FabricColor ColorContent ContentDate of checking Date of checkingGSM GSMThan No. Than No.Weight Weight

Fabric FabricColor ColorContent ContentDate of checking Date of checkingGSM GSMWeight WeightThan No. Than No.



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P.O#

2321

Size

Style#

qw

Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order

Total(Incl Extra)

Order

Total(Incl Extra)Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order Quantity

5400Color

1000

1030

1000

1030

1000

1030

1000

1030

1400

1442

0

Extra

3%Color

Total (Incl Extra)

5562Color

Color

Color

Color

Color

Cut #

Marker #

Color

Size

Quantity

Total

Quantit

y

Planned

no. of

plies

Fabric

Type

Than #

Than weight

Consumption

Marker

Consumption

Actual

Number of

plies

Actual

End bit

End bit

sticker

#

Shortage

(negative

sign

implies

excess)

Bundle #

Quantity

2321 - 1

2Black

S1200

3600

50Single Jersey

120

0.04

0.03

71

1-36

150

220

71

20

250

420

70.5

30

350

725

91

40

450

820

70.75

50

550

918

61

60

650

11

23

71

70

750

144

08

50

09

50

010

50

011

50

012

50

0

Black

M1200

Single Jersey

0

XXL

1200

3600

0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Black

XXL

1200

3600

Single Jersey

0 0

SM

LXL

XXL

3. The Actual no. of plies, Actual End bits, shortage Extra are eneterd after the spreading is over by the spreader

Cut order Plan / Lay order / Reconciliation sheet

1. The Cut #, Marker #, colors, size, Quantity, Total quantity, average consumption, Marker consumption, No. of Plies, Bundle # and details of Bundles are filled by the Cutting incharge (cut

order plan for a particular P.O.#) as soon as he receives the cutting order from MH

2 The Than #, Than weight is to be filled by the Layer man after getting the Fabric

P.O#

2321

Size

Style#

qw

Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order

Total(Incl Extra)

Order

Total(Incl Extra)Order

Total(Incl

Extra)

Order Quantity

5400Color

1000

1030

1000

1030

1000

1030

1000

1030

1400

1442

0

Extra

3%Color

Total (Incl Extra)

5562Color

Color

Color

Color

Color

Cut #

Marker #

Color

Size

Quantity

Total

Quantit

y

Planned

no. of

plies

Fabric

Type

Than #

Than weight

Consumption

Marker

Consumption

Actual

Number of

plies

Actual

End bit

End bit

sticker

#

Shortage

(negative

sign

implies

excess)

Bundle #

Quantity

2321 - 1

2Black

S1200

3600

50Single Jersey

120

0.04

0.03

71

1-36

150

220

71

20

250

420

70.5

30

350

725

91

40

450

820

70.75

50

550

918

61

60

650

11

23

71

70

750

144

08

50

09

50

010

50

011

50

012

50

0

Black

M1200

Single Jersey

0

XXL

1200

3600

0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Black

XXL

1200

3600

Single Jersey

0 0

SM

LXL

XXL

3. The Actual no. of plies, Actual End bits, shortage Extra are eneterd after the spreading is over by the spreader

Cut order Plan / Lay order / Reconciliation sheet

1. The Cut #, Marker #, colors, size, Quantity, Total quantity, average consumption, Marker consumption, No. of Plies, Bundle # and details of Bundles are filled by the Cutting incharge (cut

order plan for a particular P.O.#) as soon as he receives the cutting order from MH

2 The Than #, Than weight is to be filled by the Layer man after getting the Fabric

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Re-Cutting Requisition Slip

Buyer : Fabric : Line :

Style : Colour : Date :

S.No Part

Qty Size Defect Defect Cause Due to

Name S.No Fabric Cutting Sewing

Time In Time out

Requested By Approved By Received By

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End Bits DetailsDate Cut No. Than No. Color weight

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P. No.

Style No.

Colour

Date

S. No.Cut No.

Marker

Way

Estimated

Consumption

No. of

Plies

No.of

Garments

End Bit

Weight Shortage

/ Excess

Total

Weight

Balance

after Single

Ply Cutting

Balance

after

Recut

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

Total No. of garments cut

=

% Shortage / Excess

= =

% End Bits

= =

Average Actual Consumption

==

Variation from Approved Consumption

=Actual Consumption - Approved Consumption

=

Cutting Incharge

Fabric Utilisation Report (Weight)

Total End Bit Weight

Total Weight

Total Shortage / Excess

Total Weight

Prepared by

Factory Manager

Total Weight

Total no. of garments

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TABL

E PL

ANNING

BOA

RDTIME

TABL

E 1

TABL

E 2

Spreading Team 1Spreading Team 2Spreading Team

3Spreading Team 4Spreading Team 5

Spreading 6

Cutting Team 1

Cutting team 2

Cutting team 3

Spreading Team 1Spreading Team 2Spreading Team 3Spreading Team 4Spreading Team 5

Spreading 6

Cutting Team 1

Cutting team 2

Cutting team 3

9:00 - 9:30

9:30 - 10:00

10:00 - 10:30

10:30 - 11:00

11:00 - 11:30

11:30 - 12:00

12:00 - 12:30

12:30 - 1:00

1:30 - 2:00

2:00 - 2:30

2:30 - 3:00

3:00 - 3:30

3:30 - 4:00

4:00 - 4:30

4:30 - 5:00

5:00 - 5:30

Spreading Planned :

_____ Pieces

Spreading Actual :

____ Pieces

NO. OF OPERATORS

Y'DAY'S EFFICIENCY

PROD

UCTION

:

LINE

STYL

E #

COLO

URY'DA

Y'S

PROD

N.Y'DA

Y'S DH

UTable

9.00-11.00

11.00

-1.00

1.30-3.3

03.3

0-5.3

0TO

TAL

11

22

33

44

55

66

77

88

PROD

UCTION

BOA

RD

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Date

Table

Lay No.

No. of Plies

lay length

Marker length

Lay width

Marker width

Overlap length

No. of overlaps

Spreading Losses – Data Collection

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Date

Lay No.

No. of Plies

No. of meters in lay

0.00

lay length

Marker length

End loss

Actual

0.00

Standard

2

Excess (CM/Ply)

-2.00

Meters per Lay (End Loss)

0.00

Lay width

Marker width

width loss

Actual

0.00

Standard

2.00

Excess (CM/Ply)

-2.00

Meters per lay

#DIV/0!

Overlap length

Actual (Average)

Standard

15.24

Excess (Av) CM

-15.24

No. of overlaps

Total o/l loss (m/lay)

0.00

Total excess losses

#DIV/0!

% of meters in lay

#DIV/0!

Spreading Losses Calculation

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After first layeringAfter second layering

End Bits Details

Cuttable

Date

Cut No.

Than No. / Roll No.

Color

Non Cuttable

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Date

Start

Time

End

Time

Actual

Time

Time Lost

inRoll / Than

Loading

Time LostSplicing /

Defective fabric

removing

Time

Lost(any

other)

Un-utilized

time within a

lay

Time

spent

when lay

is waiting

for cutting

Time

Spent

when

table is

idle

Total

Readings

Cut No.

Plies

SAM / Ply

Planned

TimeTable Number

Table Utilization Report

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P. No.

Style No.

Colour

Date

S. No.Cut No.Marker Way Estimated

Consumption

No. of

Plies

No.of

Garments

End Bit

Weight Shortage

/ Excess

Total

Weight

Balance

after Single

Ply Cutting

Balance

after

Recut

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

Total No. of garments cut

=

% Shortage / Excess

= =

% End Bits

= =

Average Actual Consumption

==

Variation from Approved Consumption

=Actual Consumption - Approved Consumption

=

Total Weight

Total no. of garments

Fabric Utilisation Report (W

eight)

Total End Bit Weight

Total Weight

Total Shortage / Excess

Total Weight

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Cut Audit Report

Date:

Style:

PNo.

Inspected by:

Accept/

Reject

Cut No:

Size:

DHU:

No.of Bundles:

AQL: _______

Sample Size:

Bundles

No.of Parts:

AQL: _______

Sample Size:

Parts

No.of Pieces:

AQL: _______

Sample Size:

___________________Pieces

Bundle Inspection

S. No.

Bundle

Bundle

Part(s)

No.

Ticket

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

SUM

Piece Inspection

S. No.

Bundle

Ply

Shade

Notch Position*

Others

Matching

No.

No.

(all parts)

(based on AQL)

(based on AQL)(for matching parts)

0/1, per gmt

0/1, per part

0/1, per part

0/1, per gmt

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

SUM

DHU = (a + b + c + d)/(no. of pieces checked x parts/piece)=

In case of second inspection, please mention here :

QA Manager

No. of

Pieces

Remarks

Remarks

Cutting Incharge

cutting room planning

Documents

sample size

single ply cutting

checking gsm weight

garment manufacturing process

cutting room management

fabric utilisation report

sewing section area

shortage excess