cured and smoked foods 11 chapter copyright © 2011 by john wiley & sons, inc. all rights...

Cured and Smoked Foods11Chapter

Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Cured and Smoked Foods

Before Studying this chapter, you should already:• Have read “How to Use This Book,” pages xxviii-xxxiii, and

understand the professional recipe format.• Know how to accurately scale up and scale down recipe formula

amounts.• Know how to accurately weigh ingredients using both a spring scale

and a digital scale.• Be able to correctly fabricate various cuts of meat, poultry, and

seafood.• Be able to create and maintain accurate records of the times and

temperatures involved in food production.

Chapter Pre-Requisites

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After reading this chapter, you should be able to:• Explain the scientific principles involved in curing foods.• Prepare the two basic types of curing compounds, and

use nitrite/nitrate curing mixes safely and effectively.• Identify appropriate meats, poultry, and seafood for

curing, and choose the most appropriate curing compounds for each.

• Use both the dry cure and brine cure methods to cure meats, poultry, and seafood.

Chapter Objectives

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After reading this chapter, you should be able to:• Describe the results when wood smoke is applied to

cured foods.• Explain the science of smoking.• Select smoking equipment appropriate for your

operation’s product list, sales volume, and budget.• Prepare smoked products by both the hot smoking and

cold smoking methods.• Prepare various types of confit and other traditional and

modern foods sealed in fat.

Chapter Objectives

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How Curing Works• To cure: to treat a food with salt to make less hospitable to bacteria,

molds, and other harmful microorganisms that cause spoilage.• Virtually all foods, including vegetables and cheeses, can be

preserved with salt. • This chapter broadly pertains to all types of animal meat, including

domestic meat, wild game meat, domestic poultry and game birds, and various types of fish and shellfish.

Understanding Curing

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How Curing Works• Harmful organisms such as bacteria and molds need water to live

and grow. • Because salt is strongly attracted to water, it acts as a food

preservative by making water unavailable to bacteria in two ways:1. Salt applied to the surface of a food removes much of the water from it.

2. Some salt is absorbed into the food, which bonds strongly with the remaining moisture in the food—this makes it unable to be absorbed and used by microorganisms.


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Types of Cured Foods• Cured foods are prepared and served in several ways.

– Some are ready to eat as soon as the curing process is complete (e.g., Gravlax or cured salmon).

– Some are cooked, typically by the consumer, after they are cured (e.g., Pancetta or Italian unsmoked bacon).

– Some are dried after being cured or during the curing process, then eaten in their dry form without cooking (e.g., Jerky, prosciutto, and dry sausages).

– Some cured and dried foods are fully or partially rehydrated by soaking in water before they are eaten; this also removes some of the salt.


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Types of Cured Foods• These foods are usually cooked after they are soaked. Salt cod and

the country hams of the American South are good examples.• Some cured foods are further preserved by cooking and storing them

in fat after they are cured. Confit is an example.• Some meats and poultry are lightly cured to season them before they

are grilled or roasted. – These cures are only for flavor and, while they slightly increase refrigerated

holding times, do not preserve the foods to which they are applied.

• Finally, curing is the first step in smoking.


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Curing Compounds• A curing compound is a salt-based mixture of

ingredients that usually contains flavoring ingredients, such as sugar, spices, and herbs.

• Some cures include additional preserving agents as well.


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Curing Compounds• There are two ways in which a curing compound can be

applied to foods.1. Dry Cures

• Based on dry salt and other dry ingredients that are ground or pulverized into a granular or powdered form.

• Also called a rub, as the salt and seasonings are rubbed into the meat.

2. Brine Cures• When salt is dissolved in water, the resulting liquid is called a brine.

• When salt is dissolved in water to make a curing medium, the resulting liquid curing compound is called a brine cure, also called a wet cure.


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Curing Compounds• Brine cures usually contain other ingredients, such as sugar, spices,

herbs, and other flavorings. • Today, a brine cure that has a strong acidic component is called a

pickle.• A brine cure can be applied to foods in several ways:

– Immerse the food in the brine.

– Inject the brine into the flesh with a food injector.

– Pump the brine into the flesh through the arteries.

– Often a combination of these methods is used.


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Curing Ingredients• The most important curing ingredient is salt.

– For general curing, most charcutiers and garde manger chefs use a medium grind refined salt.

– Medium-grind salts are preferred as they are easy to handle, dissolve quickly in a brine, and can be applied evenly to meat when used in a dry cure.

Ingredients for Cured Foods

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Curing Ingredients• Many other ingredients are also used as part of a curing

mix.– Nitrate/Nitrite Mixes

• Centuries ago, people discovered that salts derived from certain sources preserved meat better and for a longer time.

• Early twentieth-century scientists discovered this was due to the presence of sodium nitrite (NaNO2) and/or sodium nitrate (NaNO3) in the salt.


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Curing Ingredients• Two types of tinted curing mix are available for curing:

1. Prague Powder #1: A mixture of 6% sodium nitrite and 94% sodium chloride, plus a small amount of red food coloring. It is the more frequently used of the two types.

2. Prague Powder #2: A mixture of 6% sodium nitrite and 94% sodium chloride with a fraction of a percent of sodium nitrate added. Red food coloring is included to tint the mixture pink.


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Curing Ingredients• Although similar, Prague Powders #1 and #2 have

different ingredients and are used for different products and procedures—they are NOT interchangeable.

• The amount of nitrites and nitrates used in a cure for a given amount of meat depends on several factors:– Type of meat– Type of cure– Length of curing time


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Sugars• Granular sugars can be used in both brines and dry

cures, while liquid sugars are used in brine cures only.• The presence of sugar:

– provides flavor.– counteracts the harshness of highly concentrated salts found in

strongly cured products like hams and bacon.– adds to the perception of moistness in cured foods that might

otherwise seem dry.


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Herbs, Spices, and Other Flavorings• Virtually all herbs, spices, aromatic vegetables, or seasonings used

in cooking may be used in curing compound.

Water• The water used to make a brine cure can affect the success of the

product being cured. • Unwanted chemicals and trace metals in tap water can create off-

flavors and interfere with the curing process. • It is advisable to use filtered or distilled water for making brines.


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Foods to be Cured• Pork• Beef, Veal, Mutton and Lamb• Game Meats• Poultry and Game Birds• Fish and Shellfish


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Evaluating Meats, Poultry, and Fish for Curing• Larger/heavier food items need more curing compound. • Thick, compact food items with less surface area require longer curing

time. • Thin, flat food items with greater surface area require less curing time.• Foods with delicate textures and loose, open grains require less dry

curing compound or a weaker brine. • Firm, dense foods require more dry curing compound or stronger

brine.• Irregularly shaped items with nooks and crannies are usually cured in

a brine.

Curing Procedures

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Guidelines for Cured Foods Safety• Maintain strict standards of sanitation. • Be extra careful when measuring ingredients for cured foods. • Always weigh the salt rather than measure by volume. If you are

using a tinted curing mix, make sure it is the correct type. • Maintain strict temperature controls. • Make sure brine cures are at room or refrigerator temperature when

they are applied to foods.• When curing, always use nonreactive materials, such as plastic or

stainless steel. • Be sure to observe the correct curing times and techniques.

Curing Procedures

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The Four Phases of the Curing Process1. Fabrication

2. Cure Application

3. Cure Penetration

4. Drying

Curing Procedures

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The Pellicle• Pellicle: Translucent, tacky skin on air-dried cured products.• Four functions:

1. Keeps microorganisms and physical contaminants from contacting the meat during storage or further processing.

2. Prevents the meat from excessive drying during storage or further processing.

3. Prevents wrapping materials from sticking to the meat during storage.

4. In cured meats to be smoked:a) Captures the smoke’s flavors and passes them into the meat’s interior.

b) Captures and holds the pigments present in the smoke, giving the product an attractive burnished color.

Curing Procedures

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Immersion Brining• Immersion brining is a technique in which food is placed in a sanitized,

nonreactive container and immersed in brine.

• This works best for small items or larger items with a lot of surface area.

Brine Curing

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Internal Brining1. Injection brining: Forcing the brine through a needle

directly into the muscle structure of the meat. a) For even application, the needle is inserted at key points all over

the item.

2. Arterial brining: Forcing the brine into the arteries in a front or hind leg primal cut. a) The brine travels through the arteries, into the smaller blood

vessels, and finally into the muscle structure of the meat.

Brine Curing

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Equipment for Internal Brining• Brining syringe: A stainless-steel cylindrical chamber with a large

needle and a plunger. • Continuous-feed brine pump: A plastic cylinder with a large

needle and a plunger. • When the plunger is pumped, it creates suction to draw the brine

into the cylinder and out through the needle into the meat or artery.

Brine Curing

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Artisan Arterial Brining

Brine Curing

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There are two basic methods for applying a dry cure: 1. Rubbing Method

– Small, flat items that need only a light cure are coated with a thin layer of the dry cure compound.

– It is massaged into the meat to ensure an even coating and to jump-start penetration.

2. Packing Method– After the meat is rubbed with a dry cure compound, it is placed into a

nonreactive container (a curing tub), lined with a shallow layer of additional dry cure compound.

– The meat is periodically turned and its position in the tub is rotated, a procedure called overhauling.

Dry Curing

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Air-Dried Beef Jerky

Dry Curing

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(A) Slice beef across the grain into even 1⁄8-in. (0.33-cm) slices. Cut the slices into 1-in. (2.5-cm) strips.

(B) Lay the strips on a sheet tray and sprinkle curing compound on both sides.

(C) Place the beef strips in a single layer on the rack of a food dehydrator (or a cooling rack).

(D) When finished, the beef will be dark in color, completely dry and stiff, and have a leathery texture. Place in a sealed container.


What Smoking Adds• The smoke’s aroma penetrates the food.• The flavor compounds in the smoke permeate the food.• Pigments present in the smoke are transferred to the food’s exterior

and darken its color.• Certain chemicals found in the smoke enhance its preservation.

Introduction to Smoked Foods

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The Importance of Curing Before Smoking• Curing before smoking also improves the texture and

flavor of the final product in two ways:

1. Curing accompanied by proper air-drying forms a pellicle that prepares the food to more fully accept the smoke.

2. Curing seasons the meat with the flavors we associate with smoked foods.

Introduction to Smoked Foods

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Foods for Smoking• Meats, poultry, and fish are the most common foods to be smoked.• Shellfish items, such as oysters or shrimp, are occasionally smoked.• In general, foods with a high fat content are better for smoking.

Woods for Smoking• The woods most frequently used come from hardwood trees. • Some types of hardwood are much more fragrant and produce

amore flavorful smoked product than others.

Ingredients

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Cold Smoking• In cold smoking, foods:

– are held at temperatures below 100°F (38°C) during the application of smoke. (A temperature range of 80°–90°F [26°–32°C] is ideal.)

– are usually carved into paper-thin slices. 1. The thin slices showcase the products’ attractive, translucent

appearance.

2. Thin slicing takes into account the powerful flavors of the cure and the smoke.

3. As connective tissues have not been broken down by heat, many smoked products would be too chewy if cut into thick slices.

Smoking Temperatures

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Hot Smoking• In hot smoking, foods:

– are surrounded by smoke between 150 and 200°F (65°C and 93°C), and brought to an internal temperature of 165°F (75°C).

– take on a different texture and appearance due to the temperature.

• Fish changes from translucent to opaque and takes on a visibly flaky texture.

• Meat also becomes opaque. Its texture becomes smoother and, in most products, more tender.

Smoking Temperatures

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No matter which type of equipment you plan to use, your smoker will have three basic features:

1. A heat source

2. A smoking chamber

3. A ventilation/circulation system

Equipment for Smoking

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The Smoking Procedure

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Pour the cold brine over the

trout

Place the trout skin-side down, in a single layer, on the smoker rack set over a sheet tray

Place the trout in the smoker

and smoke until it reaches

an internaltemperature of 145°F (63°C).

Cool to room temperature

Hot Smoked Trout


Foods Preserved in Fat

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1. Confits : Foods that are first cured and then cooked and sealed in fat.

2. Rillettes : Foods that are cooked in a flavorful, fatty liquid, shredded, and then sealed in fat. Rillettes are seasoned with salt but not cured.

3. Terrines : Foods that are sometimes sealed in their baking pans with their own and additional fat.

Procedure for Making Confit



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Place meat in sanitized container,weight and refrigerate

Pour ladle of hot fat over the meatOn a stove burner, quickly bring the fat and meat to 200°F (93°C). Cook the meat until it is very tender



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Rillettes and Other Uncured Foods Sealed in Fat• Rillettes is the French name for cooked, shredded meats

preserved in fat. • In rillettes and similar fat-sealed charcuterie products,

the fat is meant to be eaten along with the meat it surrounds.

• Rillettes are typically made from pork shoulder or poultry legs sealed with pork lard or rendered poultry fat.

• Seafood rillettes or potted shrimp are sealed with butter.

cured and smoked foods 11 chapter copyright © 2011 by john wiley & sons, inc. all rights...

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