cultural guide of the province...7 a stroll through history. the first settlers megalithic art, the...

CULTURAL GUIDE OF THE PROVINCE

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CULTURAL GUIDE OF THE PROVINCE

Nombre capítulo y sección

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Index03.

04. 06. 08.11. 14.16 19.

21.

22. 24. 27. 30. 35. 41. 44. 47.

49.

50. 52. 53. 54. 56.

57.

58. 66.

73.

74.

78.82. 84.85.

87.

01

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030405

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A Stroll through History01.1. Legendary Cadiz01.2. The first settlers 01.3. Ancient Gadir01.4. The Roman presence01.5. A land of borders01.6. Puerto de Indias01.7. Liberal and enlightened Cadiz

Cultural Routes02.1. Mythological Route02.2. Prehistoric Cadiz02.3. The Phoenician Route02.4. The Roman Route02.5. Castles and Fortresses02.6. The American Route02.7. Route of the 1812 Constitution02.8. Film Destination

Circuits of Interest03.1. Bay of Cadiz03.2. Bajo Guadalquivir03.3. Campo de Gibraltar03.4. Sierra de Cadiz–Pueblos Blancos03.5. La Janda

The Cultural Sphere04.1. Museums04.2. Cultural and Festive Agenda

Local Character 05.1. Flamenco 05.1.1 The Route of Camarón de la Isla 05.1.2 The Route of Paco de Lucía05.2. Art and Wine05.3. The Horse and the Bull05.4. Craftsmanship05.5. Notable ‘Gaditanos’

Practical information


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A Stroll through History

01


4

Legendary CadizStories of gods and myths such as Atlantis, the twelve Labours of Hercules, or the fabulous kingdom of Tartessos form an integral part of the origins of the territory of Cadiz, creating an extremely appealing aura of mystery.

The area around the Gulf of Cadiz and the Strait of Gibraltar is the setting of several legends in Greco-Roman mythology, including those related to the adventures of the Greek hero Heracles, whom the Romans later called Hercules, and whose remains – according to the Latin historian Pomponio Mela – lie under the Phoenician Melkart Temple which stood on the islet of Sancti Petri.

Hercules was entrusted with twelve labours for which he had to travel all over Europe killing many heinous beasts along the way. The last two Herculean tasks brought him to the area of Cadiz: to steal the golden apples from the garden of the Hesperides, which according to mythology was located in Tartessos, and to steal the Cattle of Geryon, an anthropomorphic being composed of three different bodies which lived in Erytheia. In the past, the area was an archipelago known as the Gadeiras, formed by the islands of Erytheia and Kotinoussa (in what is today the town of Cadiz) and Antipolis, the current San Fernando. He had to kill the Titan, which due to its peculiar morphology is related to the Drago tree standing as the centenary in the Park Genovés, whose red sap is said to be the blood of this mythological being.

When he arrived at the far reaches of Iberia, the stories say that Hercules thought he had reached the end of the world and that he separated the Calpe (Rock of Gibraltar) and Abila (Monte Hacho) mountains. At the peaks he raised two columns (the Pillars of Hercules) intended to reveal to future generations just how far his exploits had taken him, and on them he recorded the famous inscription “Non plus ultra”.

Legendary Cadiz01.1

Island of Sancti Petri. Mosaic. Museum of Cadiz.

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A Stroll through History. Legendary Cadiz.

The mysterious Tartessian culture, which sup-posedly developed in the triangle formed by the current provinces of Huelva, Seville and Cadiz on the southwest coast of the Iberian Peninsula, is mentioned in written sources from antiquity such as the History of Herodotus, which speaks of the long-lived king of Arganthonios and his incalcula-ble wealth, wisdom, and generosity.

And what about the mysterious and legendary Atlantis, mentioned and described for the first time in the texts of Plato (in his dialogues of Timaeus and Critias), an island with a peculiar circular design located, according to the Greek philosopher, opposite the Pillars of Hercules in what is today the Strait of Gibraltar. Using these geographical indications as a guide many have sought this ghostly city in southwestern Spain, ever narrowing its possible location to be in the province of Cadiz.

In recent decades, research and documentaries on the BBC and National Geographic, among others, advised by internationally renowned scientists and archaeologists like Richard Freund (professor at the University of Hartford in the United States and known for his excavations at historical sites in the Middle East) suggest that there is evidence that would place the Lost Capital of Atlantis in the vicinity off the coast of Cadiz, after being buried by one of the many natural disasters which have affected this area throughout its history, possibly a tsunami. These studies are supported by satel-lite photographs showing remains coinciding with the structure of the metropolis described by Plato, with concentric circles, a 450-metre-wide dome, large pillars, and a citadel.

Manuel de Falla, a musical genius

from Cadiz who lived in the

twentieth century, was inspired by

the underwater city to compose his

musical work La Atlántida (Atlantis), which occupied the

last twenty years of his life.

Pieces from the Phoenician colonization at the Museum of Cadiz.

Figurine of the God Melkart, from Sancti Petri.

Did you know..? êê


6

The first settlers The first settlers

01.2

The province of Cadiz has always been an important crossroads: it is both a bridge between Europe and Africa, as well as a gateway between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Perhaps this is the best explanation for its early settlement and wealth of archaeological sites.

The first important archaeological remains found around Cadiz date back to the Neolithic period, and are characterised by the arrival of people from the eastern Mediterranean. The villages apparently coexisted with caves as habitats, developing genuine forms of

artistic expression within their rock shelters which have survived to this day as a rich vestige of cultural her-itage: rock art (See the Prehistoric Cadiz Route-Pg. 24). Nestled in the Cadiz region of La Janda is the Tajo de las Figuras (Benalup), a natural rock shelter which houses an excep-tional collection of over 900 post-Pal-aeolithic paintings, with particularly stunning representations of birds in various positions.

In the Los Alcornocales Natural Park is the Laja Alta Cave in Jimena de la Frontera, which stands out for the originality of its rock art, namely in its depiction of a naval scene. It is

unique in terms of peninsular rock art and of immense importance throughout the Mediterranean. In Los Barrios one can appreciate the Bacinete set of rock art, and in Tarifa, in the Cueva del Moro, there is an impressive figure of a pregnant mare.

Cueva del Moro. Tarifa.

Cueva del Tajo de las Figuras

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A Stroll through History. The first settlers

Megalithic art, the first example of monumental architecture left behind from prehistoric societies, is also widely represented in the province of Cadiz, with examples such as the dolmens and menhirs of Facinas (Tarifa), the set of dolmens in Alberite (Villamartin), and the Dolmen of the Giant (El Gastor), located on a farm in El Charcón. However, its archaeological jewel is the set of megalithic works in Alcalá del Valle, also known as El Tomillo.

■❚❙ Archaeology for kidsThe ERA Cultura facilities in Puerto Real reproduce a prehistoric village with cabins that transport you to another time when peo-ple were fully in touch with nature. There are also workshops and activities available related to prehistory and culture. www.eracultura.com

■❚❙ Prehistoric CadizFour routes throughout the province branch off from the Centre for Interpretation of "Prehistoric Cadiz": The Route of Prehistoric La Janda, the Route of the Strait, the Route of the Highlands, and the Route of the Bay of Cadiz.www.centroprehistoricobenalup.com

Caves of Bacinete.Menhir. Facinas.

Dolmens. Facinas.


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Ancient GadirAncient Gadir01.3

The search for metals led the Phoenician sailors from the Middle East to a few islands in the Atlantic off the Iberian coast, the Gadeirai, where they would construct their largest trading base in Europe: Gadir, the oldest city of the West.

The Phoenicians from Tyre, on the Mediterranean coast of Lebanon, were a people dedicated exclusively to maritime trade, being the main suppliers of metals transported from Western Europe which they sold to the major Asian powers. And it was in search of this valuable raw material that they arrived at the coast of Cadiz, creating numerous colonies stretching from Campo de Gibraltar to the mouth of the Guadalquivir, also founding Gadir (modern Cadiz) in 1104 B.C.E., according to the Roman historian Velleius Paterculus. This reference has been hotly disputed, but appears to indeed be true in light of recent archaeological finds in Cadiz, where urban structures dating back to at least the ninth century B.C.E. have been uncovered.

The Phoenicians always chose to establish their colonies on small islands or peninsulas near the coast, as this provides the conditions for relatively easy defence and immediate access to rivers navigable by small boats. Gadir, therefore, was ideal due to its particular geography, being an archipelago of three islands "the Gadeirai": Erytheia and Kotinoussa, the two westernmost islands, were joined by an isthmus, and the third island – to the east – was known as

Antipolis. This natural port pre-sented extraordinary qualities for navigation and also possessed a strategic location near the mouth of the Guadalquivir, which was the point of contact with the rich mining areas of Huelva and Sierra Morena, and a possible enclave of the Tartessian civilization, with which it maintained intense com-mercial and cultural relations.

With regard to the appearance of the city, we know that there were temples dedicated to the goddess Astarte and the gods Baal Ammon and Melkart, the latter of whom

Gadeiras Islands Phoenician Period.

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A Stroll through History. Ancient Gadir

was the chief deity of Tyre. The tem-ple to the Melkart was located on the islet of Sancti Petri and its importance extended beyond purely religious affairs, as it also played a key eco-nomic role. The deity, the patron saint of sailors and merchants, ensured the value of trade agreements concluded at this holy place, receiving offerings in exchange which made the sanc-tuary immensely rich. They say that inside the temple, Hannibal, a child at the time, swore eternal hatred towards Rome before his father Amilcar Barca, and that Julius Caesar, next to the statue of Alexander the Great found there as well, lamented not having achieved the same feats in his time as the Macedonian con-queror had done.

As in other Phoenician sites in the Bay of Cadiz, Gadir would have had walls, towers and monumental gates. The economy of this bustling city was based on trade as well as tuna fish-ing, creating major industries engaged in salting and the art of Almadraba-style fishing in enclaves such as Barbate, from which point they exported a sauce made from fish viscera, the famous garum, which the Romans greed-ily demanded across the Empire and which is today produced once again for haute cuisine.

Castle of Sancti Petri.

Hercules Gaditanus in bronze. Museum of Cadiz.

The Phoenician archaeological site of Gadir.

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A Stroll through History. Ancient Gadir

Among the archaeological remains from this time (See the Phoenician Route, Pg. 27), one which really stands out today is the Phoenician site of Gadir, located in the City of Cadiz under the Tía Norica puppet theatre, which reveals sections of two streets and eight houses dating from the ninth century B.C.E. to the public, as well as some human remains of Phoenicians from the sixth century B.C.E; the two anthro-pomorphic sarcophagi kept at the Museum of Cadiz are the only ones of their kind in the Western Mediterranean; then there are the remains of a Phoenician funerary monument located in the (now closed) archaeological site Casa del Obispo, in the basement of the old Episcopal Palace. In the province it is also pos-sible to visit the remains of walls, the necropo-lis, and dwellings from between the eighth and third centuries B.C.E., at the archaeological site of Doña Blanca, in El Puerto de Santa María.

■❚❙ A discovery of filmThe valuable Phoenician sarcophagi appeared in Cadiz almost a century apart. In 1887, the male sarcophagus was discovered, but the female, which is even more impressive due to the level of finesse and delicacy, was not found until 1980. And it was found just below the house occupied by Pelayo Quintero, a great scholar who for many years served as the Director of the Museum of Cadiz and who was also a researcher and excavator of the Roman necropolis. He died in 1946, still convinced that there had to be a female sarcophagus somewhere in the city but unaware that it was lying beneath his home.

The Phoenicians, as they were

referred to by the Greeks,

were actually Canaanites, whose

name means "men of purple" because all their

clothing was dyed this colour using a dye extracted from a mollusc

(the dye murex). This colour was

the most exclusive and expensive,

intended only for high priests and

emperors.

Phoenician sarcophagi.



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The Roman presenceThe Roman presence01.401.4

In the aftermath of the Second Punic War, in the late third century B.C.E., the city of Gadir was taken by Rome from the Carthaginians, thus beginning a very prosperous time for all the residents of Gadir and provided the Empire with products such as wine, oils, and salted fish.

Rome brought territorial organisation and taxes, systematically exploiting the mining and fishing resources of the territory and cre-ating an important communications network, the Roman roads, which promoted transport and trade. From Gades (Cadiz), the Via Augusta led all the way to Rome following the eastern coast. Linked with Hispalis (Seville), the Silver Route (Via de la Plata) branched out from Gades, connecting the provinces of Baetica and Gallaecia, and was the main route for tin. Today it is one of the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela.

Roman rule also multiplied the number of municipalities in the province, with complex developments in which the works and public buildings (cisterns and aqueducts, sewers, temples, baths and the-atres) alternated with other structures of a more industrial nature, such as fish farms and funerary facilities (necropolis). Of particular note, in the interior, are the settlements (See the Roman Route, Pg. 30) of Asido Caesarina (the present-day Medina Sidonia), Carissa Aurelia (Espera), Iptuci (Prado del Rey), Sierra de Aznar (Arcos de la Frontera) or Ocuri (Ubrique). On the Cadiz coast, the Bay of Cadiz, and the Strait of Gibraltar, colonisation intensified with a string of cities dedicated to commercial, nautical, and fishing activities. Of particular note are the ruins of the Roman city of Carteia in San Roque or the site of the Mesa del Esparragal (Alcalá de los Gazules),

Baelo Claudia.

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A Stroll through History. The Roman presence.

where the Bronze of Lascuta was found, the oldest Roman inscription from Spain which is now exhibited at the Louvre in Paris.

Near the Beach of Bolonia, in Tarifa, Baelo Claudia was established as a Roman city founded in the late sec-ond century B.C.E., with an economy based on fishing and tuna trapping. It is of particular interest due to the complete overview of Roman urbanism which it provides, as is clearly visible when you visit. There you can see the

remains of walls, roads, housing, the basilica, the forum, and factories for salting fish and preparing the famous garum, both products which made this city well known throughout the Empire.

This memory of Romanisation can be vividly appreciated in the provincial capital, which was the birthplace of Emperor Hadrian’s mother and of the famous agronomist Junius Moderatus Columella, whose statue is the Roman in the fountain at the Plaza de la Flores.

The Roman Gades experienced a period of great splendour after clashes between Pompey and Caesar for power in Rome. The citizens of Gadir sided with Caesar, who defeated Pompey at Munda. As a gesture of gratitude, Julius Caesar granted Roman citizenship to Gades, calling it Augusta Urbs Julia Gaditana. In the classical texts of Roman imperial era, there was no short-age of frequent allusions to the Cadiz Temple of Hercules and his expert dancers (the famous puellae gaditanae).

The city of Cadiz has a fascinating

underground network, including

the Beaterio Caves-Catacombs (which can be visited), as well as the María

Mocos Caves.

■❚❙ Roman Bætica

The cities of Cadiz and Tarifa, along with a dozen other cities in the provinces of Seville and Cordoba, form part of the Roman Bætica Route, which runs through the southernmost province of Roman Hispania and encompasses territories through which the ancient Via Augusta traversed.

www.beticaromana.org

Plaza de las Flores. Cadiz.

Ocuri Mausoleum. Roman Theatre. Cadiz.


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A Stroll through History. The Roman presence

The Gades retained its thriving commercial activity during the first centuries of the Empire, reaching some 50,000 inhabitants. This is clearly evidenced by the Roman Theatre (first century B.C.E.) in the neighbourhood of Populo, which is the second largest in all the Roman world after the Pompey Theatre in Rome; the fish salting factory at the site of the old Andalusia Theatre; remains of buildings at the site of the Casa del Obispo; the extramural Roman columbaria (the only visible testimony of the necropolis), and a few sections of the tubular oyster stone aqueduct that brought fresh water from the Temple spring.

■❚❙ Seats reserved at the ColiseumIn 1939, two inscriptions were found in the Flavian Amphitheatre of Rome (the Colosseum) with the word Gaditanorum, which seem to confirm that the Roman citizens of Gades had "reserved" seats in the stands. Researchers from the University of Cadiz who went to the Italian capital to study the artefacts have pointed out their rarity, since until now the privilege of having exclusive seats seemed reserved for priests and magistrates. This fact is further proof of the importance of Gades among the cities making up the Roman Empire, especially during the time of Caesar Augustus at the hand of the Cornelius Balbus family. The inscriptions can currently be seen at the Colosseum in an area of the amphitheatre which has been restored and can be visited.

Carteia.

Remains of the Roman road. Medina Sidonia.


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A land of bordersA land of bordersA land of borders01.5

The Muslim presence, which lasted from the eighth century until the late fifteenth century with the expulsion of the Moors, left a deep mark in the province, still visible in the layout of its towns and cities, its many castles, and buildings of great artistic value.

In 711, Tarik’s troops landed in the Bay of Algeciras and, after defeating the Gothic king Don Rodrigo at the battle of Guadalete, they began their conquest of the peninsula. The city of Cadiz (Qadis) became a military garrison with a fortress and a mosque, dependent on the Kora of Sidonia whose capital was found in Jerez de la Frontera. This was the location of the most important Islamic building in all of the Cadiz territory, its Almohad-style citadel, which housed the mosque (with its yard of ablutions, mihrab, and minaret) and the Arab baths, in addition to the Garden of Olives.

The culture of al-Andalus was deeply urban, hence focusing all of its constructive and artis-tic knowledge into the Andalusian cities. Many of them were walled - as the archaeological remains of medieval walls in Algeciras from the Marinid period demonstrate - and the majority featured towers and gates connected to the fortress and “alcázar”. The mosque, souks, alhóndigas, alcaicería, and baths were all located within the walls of the city of Medina. The towns of Sierra de Cadiz are a magnificent example of Andalusian town planning, with their narrow, winding streets leading up to the whitewashed houses.

Military constructions in the Province (See the Castles and Fortresses Route, Pg. 35) prolif-erated during the period of fighting between Muslims and Christians. Therefore, next to the medieval fortresses perfectly integrated into urban collectives such as those of Tarifa or Castellar, there are solitary castles and towers

The oldest Visigoth temple in Andalusia is

the Chapel of the Martyrs, which is found in Medina

Sidonia.

Church of O. Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Jerez de la Frontera Fortress


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A Stroll through History. A land of borders

strategically located through-out the interior on top of rock atalayas such as Zahara de la Sierra and Olvera from where it was possible to spot danger.

On the other hand, on the Atlantic coast, from the mouth of the River Guadalquivir to the stronghold of Gibraltar, the landscape is dotted with watch-towers, bastions and coastal castles that served as perma-nent lookouts against the risk of maritime invasions: the Castle of Guzmán el Bueno in Tarifa, the Castle of San Marcos in El Puerto de Santa María, and the Castle of Luna in Rota. Located in strategic places, the Christian reconquista would ultimately reuse part of these defences, adapting them to new needs or creating others.

It was under the reign of Alfonso X the Wise, after the Reconquista of Cadiz in 1262, that the territory became part of the Kingdom of Castilla, growing stronger and repopulating with settlers from other areas, especially Cantabria. And from an artistic point of view, the Christian conquest brought the Gothic style whereby imposing churches were built in cities such as Jerez de la Frontera, with prom-inent examples such as the Church of Santiago, which keeps the image of the Arrest of Our Father Jesus (attributed to Roldana), the Conventual Church of Santo Domingo, the Church of San Miguel, San Mateo, or the Church of San Marcos.

Also worth noting are the Gothic churches of Santa Maria and San Pedro in Arcos de la Frontera, the Church of the Divine Savior in Vejer, the Minor Basilica of Our Lady of Miracles of El Puerto de Santa María and the church of Santa Maria la Mayor La Coronada in Medina Sidonia, among many others. This style eventually came to coexist with the incipient renaissance and with Mudejar styles, as seen in magnificent examples like the Church of Nuestra Señora de la O in Sanlúcar and San Dionisio in Jerez.

■❚❙ The Legacy of al-AndalusThe Route of Almoravides and Almohades runs throughout the territory of Cadiz, and is one of the routes of the Andalusian Legacy, honoured as Major Cultural Route of the Council of Europe

www.legadoandalusi.es

San Marcos Castle. El Puerto de Santa María. Jerez Fortress.


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PUerto de indiasPuerto de Indias01.6

With the 'Colombian Feat', the Bay of Cadiz became the recipient of riches from the New World, bestow-ing upon it an economic and cul-tural prosperity which was reflected in the construction of important religious and civil monuments.

The province of Cadiz has bears a strong mark from the Passage to the Indies (Carrera de Indias), the result of its operations since the first moments of the discov-ery of America (See American Route, Pg. 41). The first voyage of Columbus in 1492 left from the

coast of Huelva, though the Genoese admiral began his second journey from Cadiz, the third from Sanlúcar de Barrameda (the port also chosen by Magellan and Juan Sebastian Elcano to start their tour of the world), and the fourth departed again from the capital city Cadiz. From 1500, trade with America was centralised in “Casa de Contratación” in Seville, but the navigability of the Guadalquivir posed a challenge for business development. As such, in 1717, Cadiz displaced Seville and retained the entire commercial monopoly with America.

■❚❙ Cadiz, "Little Havana"In a song sung by Carlos Cano it was said "Havana is Cadiz with more people of colour, and Cadiz is Havana with more salt...". And indeed there are many similarities between the cities which have resulted in their parallel development on both sides of the ocean. A walk along the Cadiz waterfront, from La Caleta to Campo del Sur, would surely evoke the image of the Malecon, in Havana, in the minds of visitors. These are mirrored by the fortifications which shielded the entry to the Cuban Bay and which defended the peninsular city from the English corsair Drake. Not to mention the façades of both cathedrals and the picturesque historic city centres with narrow streets and the smell of salt.

Jerez de la Frontera Cathedral.

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Since the Reconquista, Cadiz has been settled by many foreign bour-geois, and in particular the Genoese, who had a great commercial vision and were later joined by the English, Flemish, and French who were drawn by American trade and the export of famous wines from the region of Jerez de la Frontera. This cosmopolitan environment gave the city an openness which allowed for acceptance of the Enlightenment, thus placing it at the cutting edge in terms of sci-entific advances and liberal political ideas. However, this prosperity would be marred by frequent pirate attacks, resulting in reinforce-ments of the defences along the coast with towers, bastions, and walled areas such as the city of Cadiz itself, as well as the crossfire defensive system developed by the French military engineer Vauban.

The economic vigour between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries was reflected in the construction of important monuments such as the cathedrals of Cadiz (with a colonial flair), Jerez de la Frontera, and Cartuja (Charterhouse) de Santa María de la Defensión, a harmonic structure fusing Gothic, Plateresque Renaissance, and Baroque styles with particularly attractive areas such as the entrance portico, the Chapel of Santa Maria de la Defensión, the courtyard of the Myrtles, the Wayfarers Chapel, cloister of laypersons, or the so-called

A Stroll through History. Puerto de Indias

View of the Cathedral of Cadiz.

Casa Lasquetty. Cadiz. Jerez de la Frontera Charterhouse

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A Stroll through History. Puerto de Indias

Yard of Jasmine (Patio de los Jazmines). Most churches and convents in Cadiz date back to this period.

Standing prominently in the ‘civil section’ are the palaces and manor houses which became an integral part of the appearance of these cities. Of particular importance are those of the capital, with their characteristic towers and viewpoints from which traders could watch the ships coming into port from America, like the Admiral’s House and the Houses of the Four and Five Towers. Also notable in the province are Vizarrón’s House, in El Puerto de Santa María, the house of the Marquis of Arizón, the Palace of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and the Bertemati palace in Jerez de la Frontera.

On 1st November 1755, the city of Cadiz was saved from the tsunami caused by the earthquake which completely destroyed the Portuguese city of Lisbon thanks to its protective walls.

■❚❙ The first journey around the worldOn 20 September 1519, a fleet of five ships departed from the Port of Sanlúcar headed for the Canary Islands. Under the command of Ferdinand Magellan, the first stage of a journey began during which humans would circumnavigate the globe for the first time. The fleet consisted of five caravels and 265 people of various nationalities. The adventure lasted three years and on 6 September 1522, the sole surviving vessel from the fleet, the Victoria, commanded by Juan Sebastian Elcano, arrived in the Port of Sanlúcar with just 18 crew members.

Casa-Hotel of Marqués de Arizón. Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Palace of Medina Sidonia. Sanlúcar de Barrameda.



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Liberal and enlightened Cadiz


Liberal and enlightened CadizLiberal and enlightened Cadiz

01.7

The province of Cadiz would play a major role in the great political and cultural movements of the nineteenth century, importing new ideas that led to the liberal and democratic openness enshrined in the 1812 Constitution.

The economic and cultural splendour of the eighteenth Century in the Province of Cadiz, the result of the monopoly on Indian trade, would give way to a new tumultuous cen-tury that began with the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, which marked the beginning of the end of the Spanish colonial empire and the War of Independence (1810) with the siege of the Napoleonic troops who achieved near total occupation of Spanish territory until their advance was stopped by the defences of the island of León (San Fernando).

During the conflict, the Supreme Central Council (Junta) convened the Courts and in light of the adverse development of the war they decided to take refuge in Cadiz, the only city along with San Fernando which was not occupied by the Napoleonic army. The oratory San Felipe Neri hosted the heated debates of the two hundred deputies who, after more than 1,400 sessions, drafted the 1812 Constitution, which was given the nickname “la Pepa” because it was created on 19th March, St. Joseph’s Day. In the buildings attached to the Oratory one can find the Museum of the Courts, as well as the La Pepa 2012 Centre for Interpretation (See the Route of the 1812 Constitution, Pg. 44).

Oratory of San Felipe Neri. Cadiz.

Panorama of San Fernando.

The famous Place du Trocadero in Paris, from which one can appreciate a famous view of the Eiffel Tower, has been known by that name since 1823 following the battle that took place between Spanish and French troops on the Trocadero Island (Puerto Real), located in the Bay of Cadiz.


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This Magna Carta had a huge impact abroad. It served as the model for other European and American countries and was translated into English, French, German, Portuguese, and Italian. We find a cosmopolitan Cadiz where the most elite and modern members of Spanish and European society at the time converged and which was the stage for various literary gatherings. It was here that numerous news-papers were published, and the city attracted many writers and intellectuals: Adolfo de Castro, Joaquín de Mora, Eduardo Benot, Emilio Castelar, and Fernán Caballero, among others.

The nineteenth century was also the century of romanticism; of European travellers drawn by the exoticism and ambience of Andalusia. Cadiz - which already in the eighteenth century was considered one of the most beautiful cities in Europe - the countryside of Jerez, Sanlúcar, Gibraltar, or the Cadiz mountains became fre-quent targets of illustrious adventurers, many of whom left behind written testimonies of the impressions they got from their travels through-out our lands: the Spanish scholar Richard Ford, Alexander Dumas (who wrote, among other books, From Paris to Cadiz), or the English poet Lord Byron, who describe Cadiz as “the cleanest and most beautiful city of Europe”, while also praising the women of this region, the “graceful Gaditanas”.

The town of San Roque, like Los

Barrios and Linea de la Concepcion,

was founded by the Gibraltarians who had to leave

the Rock after the British conquest

in 1704 and then settled around the old Chapel of San

Roque.

■❚❙ Bandits of Sierra de CadizThe famous Jose Maria el Tempranillo, although born in the province of Cordoba, made many forays into the area: one of his children was born in Torre Alháquime, and in El Gastor there is a museum in the house where his girlfriend lived and where he spent long periods.

A Stroll through History. Liberal and enlightened Cadiz

San Roque.



21

Cultural Routes

02

Cultural Routes. Nombre capítulo y sección

22

Cadiz is an ancient land full of myths and legends; a meeting point of different cultures and civilizations which through the centuries have left their mark in the history of mankind. The Route traces the mythical geography of Cadiz, of which Heracles-Hercules is its main axis.

We begin our journey in the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the founding of which seems to be linked to the existence of a tem-

ple dedicated to the goddess Astarte, who with her planetary light guided and protected marine travellers.

This is where the Centre for Interpretation of Mythological Cadiz is found, whose exhibit is organised into three thematic areas, the first of which is dedicated to the “Holy Land”, with allusions to the kingdom of Tartessos. The second deals with the ‘Mother Goddess’. And finally, the last area focuses on what has been considered sacred par excellence in the vicinity of Cadiz since Phoenician times: the “Temple of Hercules”, which would be located near the current islet of Sancti Petri, in the municipality of San Fernando. Today it houses a castle from the eighteenth century which has been recently

Mythological RouteMythological Route02.1

Cadiz Centre for Mythological Interpretation. Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Guided tour of the Castle of Sancti Petri.

23

restored. It’s possible to visit this islet with a lovely boat ride from the sporting port of the ancient fishing village of Sancti-Petri.

The Phoenician expedition that founded Gadir back in 1100 B.C.E., in the eastern part of what was then the island of Kotinoussa, founded a sanctuary dedicated to Melkart, who would become one of the most important oracles of antiquity. According to the Roman historian Pomponius Mela, the remains of Hercules have been buried under the temple and that sub-terranean area was also said to house other mythological relics as the belt of Teucro or tree of Pygmalion. It was in the Trajan era that the temple reached its peak of splendour and the Museum of Cadiz has on display some valua-ble relics from this period, including the bronze thorocate sculpture of the Emperor from the late first century or early second century.

Over time, the Phoenician Melkart merged with the Greek Heracles and Roman Hercules, a hero who, in performing his famous Twelve Labours, struck the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, causing the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean to join, thus giving rise to the famous Pillars of Hercules (one of which, according to legend, was in the area of Algeciras and Tarifa), which is now known as the Strait of Gibraltar. If you have a chance to visit Tarifa you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to visit this legendary strait by boat, enjoying the magnificent spectacle of dol-phins and whales plying its waters. There are several companies in the area which provide such services.

Sanlúcar de Barrameda: � Cadiz Centre for Mythological Interpretation

Cádiz: � Museum of Cadiz

San Fernando: � Island and Castle of Sancti Petri

Gibraltar y Tarifa: � Strait of Gibraltar and Tarifa

CENTRE FOR MYTHOLOGICAL INTERPRETATION. , Centro Cultural la Victoria- Plaza la Victoria - Sanlúcar de BarramedaO 956 383 810Visits by appointment

VISITS TO SANCTI PETRIw www.albarco.comwww.espacionautico.comwww.novojet.netLOGGIA, Gestión de Patrimonio Cultural, S.L.O 667 502 369 – 610 080 553

BOAT RIDES THROUGH THE STRAITw www.firmm.orgwww.turmares.comwww.whalewatchtarifa.netwww.aventuratarifa.comwww.aventuramarina.org

OF INTEREST

Mythological route

Whale watching in the strait.

Cultural Routes. Mythological Route

24


We’re going to visit the main rock shelters and caves whose walls have been painted with the “primitive” art of prehistoric man, and we’ll admire the megalithic structures erected, undoubtedly, through a collective effort to turn them into a final resting place.

The starting point of our route is the Interpretation Centre for “Prehistoric Cadiz”, located in Benalup-Casas Viejas, which offers visitors an interesting trip through prehistoric times. Along the way throughout the eleven thematic areas, the journey will take you to the first traces of humankind in the province of Cadiz, and you will have a chance to stroll through the enclaves and to view some of the most important findings. The museum discourse is based on interactive, audio-visual attractions, environmental recreations, models and special effects such as a Pepper Ghost, which all help to create a real and up-close environment.

In the municipality of Benalup and in the proximity of the Lagoon of La Janda we can find both the set of Bushel Dolmens (‘Bushel Swamp’ recreational area), as well as the rock shelters of Tajo de las Figuras, which offer confirmation that you’re standing in a sacred place. Among the cave paintings found inside this rock shelter it is possible to distinguish various type of birds (flamingos, geese, ducks, swans, etc.), deer, dogs, herds of goats, and several human figures engaged in dancing or hunting.

Our journey continues in the direc-tion of the Strait of Gibraltar, stop-ping in Facinas, a district of Tarifa in which three dolmens and men-hirs are located. They are found at the end of the northwest slope of the Sierra de Salaviciosa. Near the cove and Valdevaqueros dune, at the Tarifa beach, we will find a path signposted as Algarbes-Betijuelo, which will take us to the necropolis of Los Algarbes.

Prehistoric CadizPrehistoric Cadiz02.2

Rock shelter of Laja Alta. Jimena de la Frontera.

25

Cultural Routes. Prehistoric Cadiz

Leaving the coast behind, the next destination is the town of Los Barrios and the set of Bacinete rock art. The primary cave is particu-larly notable, with surprising scenes such as that of the human figure known as “The Giant” due to its large size. The estate is private and one must receive the owner’s permission.

The archaeological itinerary takes us now to Jimena de la Frontera and the Laja Alta cave. The set presents a wide range of thematic motifs, but its great popularity comes from its original naval scene, consisting of seven ships. The entrance of the cave is protected by a fence.

Benalup-Casas Viejas: � Centre for Interpretation of "Prehistoric Cadiz". � Rock shelters of Tajo de las Figuras � Bushel dolmens. Facinas: � Dolmens and the Menhir of Facinas. Tarifa: � Necropolis of Algarbes. Los Barrios: � Set of rock art in the Cave of Bacinete. Jimena de la Frontera: � Rock shelter of Laja Alta. Llanos de Villamartín: � Set of Alberite dolmens. Puerto Serrano: � Fuente de Ramos Necropolis. El Gastor: � The Dolmen of El Charcón. Alcalá del Valle: Dolmens of Tomillo.

■❚❙ CAUTIONSome remains of existing rock art in the province are located in areas which are difficult to access, so we recommend that before starting your search and visit you should always check with the nearest Tourism Office (See Practical Information, pg. 87).

Prehistoric Cadiz route

Dolmen of Alberite. Rock shelters of Tajo de las Figuras.

26

For the last leg of our prehistoric route, we head towards the Sierra de Cadiz, which is where the major megalithic works of the province can be found. We’ll visit the dolmens of Alberite (Llanos de Villamartin), which date back more than 6,000 years, with one tunnel-shaped dolmen in particular (Alberite I) which is some 20 metres long with a large entrance. Located some 15 km away, on a hill in the municipality of Puerto Serrano, is the site of Fuente de Ramos, a vast necropolis of artificial caves.

And finally we conclude our trip by visiting the dolmen of El Charcón (El Gastor), also known as the Giant’s Tomb for its size and the set of megalithic structures of Alcalá del Valle, known as the dolmens of Tomillo, a necropolis consist-ing of two tombs dating back to the Chalcolithic period, as well as a menhir.

CENTRE FOR INTERPRETATION OF “PREHISTORIC CADIz”, Calle Huelva s/n. Benalup-Casas ViejasO 956 417 927w www.centroprehistoricobenalup.com

OF INTEREST

Centre for Interpretation of "Prehistoric Cadiz". Benalup.

Dolmens of Tomillo. Alcalá del Valle.

Centre for Interpretation of "Prehistoric Cadiz".

Cultural Routes. Prehistoric Cadiz


27

Almost three thousand years ago, ships from Tyre and Sidon left the Strait of Gibraltar behind and began a dangerous navigation through the waters of the Atlantic. They came upon Gadir, which had become one of the main Phoenician sites in the western Mediterranean.

Our starting point can be none other than the city of Cadiz, which the Phoenicians founded in 1104 B.C.E. as Gadir. As an exceptional testimony of this very prosperous historical period for the territory of Cadiz we have the archaeological site Gadir, considered the most important of the Western Mediterranean basin. This visit, which lasts approximately 20 to 30 minutes, unfolds through a spectacular glass walkway, with its central axis revolving around the figure of the Phoenician Mattan.

During this interactive tour which traces the evolution of the city from its foundation to Roman times you can see the remains of the ancient Phoenician city, including the layout of streets, houses, and utensils from the ninth century B.C.E. A total of eight houses have been preserved, arranged around two streets paved with clay, where it is still possible to see the fossilised footprints of several cattle which walked these streets in the past. It is also possible to see construction for a factory for Roman fishing manufacturing.

The Phoenician RouteThe Phoenician Route02.3

Cádiz: � Gadir Archaeological Site

� House of the Bishop Archaeological Site

� Cadiz Museum

El Puerto de Santa María: � Doña Blanca Archaeological Site

San Fernando:� Island of Sancti Petri. Temple of Melkart and Castillo..

Phoenician Route

28

Our next destination is found near the cathedral in Cadiz, the archaeological site Casa del Obispo, the remains of which date back to between the eigth century B.C.E. and the eighteenth century, located below the former Episcopal Palace. Of particular note is the funerary monument from the Phoenician era (sixth century B.C.E.) which, along with its annexes carved into the rock, forms one of the most important funerary com-plexes of the Iberian Peninsula and the remains of a Roman temple.

While still in the city known as Tacita de Plata, we head toward the popular Plaza de Mina, where the Cadiz Museum is found, containing valuable archaeological finds from Phoenician times, such as amphorae, a sculpture of the goddess Astarte, and bronzes dedicated to the god Melkart. However, the real stars of the Cadiz funerary world are, without a doubt, the two anthropoid sarcophagi found in the city, which possess more Hellenized features than seen elsewhere. The first one, the male, appeared in an area known as Punta de la Vaca in 1887, who had to wait almost a hundred years (1980) for his female companion to join him. Only ten sarcophagi of this type have been found world-wide, and only three are women. They are now housed in museums in Beirut and Carthage, as well as The Louvre.

At the jewellery store Joyería Rivera,

in Cadiz, exclusive reproductions are

sold of a Phoenician ring found in 1997

inside a tomb ransacked in the

Casa del Obispo. It is made of gold and has

two dolphins carved on it, one of the

symbols of Gadir.

■❚❙ The Face of MattanAt the Phoenician site of Gadir, visitors can view the face of Mattan, a Phoenician who died in a huge fire that took place in the city back in the seventh century B.C.E., from which a facial reconstruction was performed using the most advanced digital and forensic technology.

Cadiz Museum.

Gadir Archaeological Site.

Archaeological site Casa del Obispo.


Cultural Routes. The Phoenician Route

29

Cultural Routes. The Phoenician Route

GADIR ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, Calle San Miguel, 15 - CádizO 956 226 337w www.turismo.cadiz.es

HOUSE OF THE BISHOP ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE , Plaza Fray Félix, s/n - CádizO 956 264 734w www.lacasadelobispo.com[Temporarily closed]

OF INTEREST

DOÑA BLANCA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE , Ctra. del Portal, km. 3,2 - El Puerto de Santa MaríaO 856 105 058w www.turismoelpuerto.com[Groups available by reservation]

SANCTI PETRI VISITSw www.albarco.comwww.espacionautico.comwww.novojet.netLOGGIA, Gestión dePatrimonio Cultural, S.L.Tel. 667 502 369 – 610 080 553

We now turn to El Puerto de Santa María in search of the site of Doña Blanca, an archaeological area located on the summit and slopes of the Sierra de San Cristobal. The area can be accessed by local road 201 from El Puerto de Santa María to Jerez de la Frontera through El Portal, through which it continues towards the latter until kilo-metre marker 3,300. Its excavation revealed the remains of walls, a necropolis (with hypogea from the Bronze Age and a tumulus with 63 interments), and homes all indicating a port city inhabited between the eighth and third centuries B.C.E. with economic development based primarily on trade.

Finally, we end our journey in San Fernando, the municipality of which encompasses the island or islet of Sancti Petri, around which there has always been an aura of mystery and legend. In the vicinity of this was the temple to the Phoenician god Melkart, who always played a key role in the economic and social cohesion of the Phoenician settlement, regulating its commercial activities. The sanctuary had an oracle who was visited by famous individuals known for their exploits or nobility, such as Hannibal or Julius Caesar. Today the island is home to a tower from the eighth century and a castle, a set of buildings erected between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. You can visit them and they are still in good condition thanks to restoration works completed in 2010.

Site of Doña Blanca. El Puerto de Santa María.


30

In the third century B.C.E., the Province of Cadiz fell into the hands of the Romans who already controlled the Guadalquivir valley; this would later result in a flourishing economic, political, and commercial period of its history. Along this route, we will be able to admire the extensive legacy of the Empire.

The large number of archaeolog-ical remains from Roman times, and their dispersion across the geography of Cadiz has resulted in the division of this route into two paths (Coastal and Inland) which will make our trip much more comfortable and convenient. The COASTAL ITINERARY first takes us to Cadiz, the former Gades, which during the time of the Balbus family achieved great economic importance.

It was precisely Lucius Cornelius Balbus “the Lessor” who ordered the construction of the Roman

Theatre of Cadiz, in the present district of Pópulo, around 70 B.C.E. The excavations performed so far only make it possible to view part of this monument: remains of the original façade, at the top; much of the semi-circular stands, part of the area of the stage, and a piece of the spectator walking gallery. The perfect complement to this valuable site is the Centre for Interpretation, created to provide a complete overview of the theatre and to discover its similarities and differences with other known Roman theatres, the materials used in its construction, etc. Among its fundamental contents are the models which faithfully illustrate both the current state of the excavated theatre, as well as the restitution of any parts which are missing or yet to be discovered.

While still in Pópulo we can visit the Roman remains preserved at the archaeological site Casa del Obispo, which during that time could have been used as a place of worship of the gods Apollo, Asclepius, and Hygia. If we walk down the street Cuesta de Recaño, in the old area

The Roman RouteThe Roman Route02.4

Salting Factory. Cadiz.

3131

of Cadiz at the site of the old theatre Andalucía, we can find traces of the Roman canning and fishing industry, including a fish salting factory from the first century B.C.E., which remained in operation until the early fourth century. Located in one of its cisterns were charcoal drawings of the Gades Lighthouse, now exhibited at the Museum of Cadiz, where you can also see other findings from this period coming from Claudia Baelo, Carissa Aurelia, or Gades itself.

Outside of the walls, beyond the Puertas de Tierra, are the Roman columbaria, which are now the only visitable testimony of the necrop-olis and the remains of the aqueduct, which Lucius Cornelius Balbus “the Greater” had built in order to supply water to the neapolis, or ‘new city’, built in the first century B.C.E. in the area now occupied by the Santa María and Pópulo districts.

From Cadiz we proceed to Bolonia, a village in Tarifa where the archaeological site of Baelo Claudia can be found, consisting of the Roman city itself, with its visitors’ circuit and an indoor museum space, which includes the Visitor Centre. Baelo Claudia was founded in the second century B.C.E. and reached its peak dur-ing the reign of Emperor Claudius (first century C.E.). Its origin and subsequent development are closely linked to the salting industries and trade with North Africa. It represents a clear reference to the knowledge of Roman urban-ism, as it retains all of the representative ele-ments of a Roman city: the forum, temples in

Cádiz: � Cádiz. Bolonia - Tarifa: � Baelo Claudia Archaeological Site. San Roque: � Carteia.

Medina Sidonia: � Asido Caesarina. Espera: � Carissa Aurelia. Prado del Rey: � Iptuci and Salinas de Cabeza de Hortales. Ubrique: � Ocuri. Benaocaz: � Roman Road.

Roman Route

COASTAL ROUTE:

INTERIOR ROUTE:

Centre for Interpretation of Roman Theatre. Cadiz.

Baelo Claudia.

Baelo Claudia.

Cultural Routes. The Roman Route

32


the Capitol, oriental temples such as the one dedicated to Isis, a basilica, administrative buildings such as the curia or municipal archives, a market, the baths, the industrial zone, a complete wall with its front gates, streets, aqueducts, and a theatre where classic plays are now performed in summer.

This first coastal route ends in the town of San Roque, in which the archaeological site of Carteia is found. Of Phoenician origin and settled on an ancient Punic city in 171 B.C.E., Rome granted it the title of Colonia Libertinorum Carteia, thus making it the first Latin colony off Italian soil. Beyond its military role, serving as a base of the Roman fleet

and as the main commercial port in the Strait of Gibraltar, Carteia was recognised for its canning tradition. Of particular note are the remains of a bathhouse, a basilica pool, the monumental stair-case built during the time of Augustus (which leads to the platform upon which the city temple stood), the Roman theatre (very similar in shape and dimensions as that in Merida), and various domus (homes), as well as a fish salting factory.

The second ITINERARY proposed to explore Rome’s legacy is carried out in the INTERIOR and through the mountain range (SIERRA) of the Cadiz province. The starting point is in Medina Sidonia, the Roman Asido Caesarina, with an archaeological site that illustrates the exemplary sanitation infrastructure and public supply of Roman

Ocuri Archaeological Site.

■❚❙ The Roman salt mines of Iptuci

Today you can purchase salt directly from the old salt mines of Iptuci. The old wells built around springs have been preserved, from which water has steadily flowed year-round since antiquity with an average temperature of 25ºC and a salt content of 28 gr/l. The salt collection process, which is done entirely by hand, takes place during two summer months, during which time more than 300 tonnes are extracted.

33

civilisation, including the remains of hydraulic structures and underground galleries which correspond to the sewers and sewage systems of the early Roman city. The visit is permitted through the Archaeological Museum, since the Roman remains are located beneath its sub-soil. A few metres from the museum you can also appreciate the Roman road, which runs four metres below the street.

About 50 minutes away by car we arrive at the site of Carissa Aurelia, in what is now Espera, the Roman city of which a walled urban area has been preserved as well as a vast necropolis with burials in hypogea (alcoves dug into the rock), as well as a mausoleum. A very unique type of tomb has also been found, the likes of which have not been found at any other site dating back to Roman times: the tombs are carved into the ground in the shape of a Greek cross. Visits to the site are organised with the Tourist Office in town, and reservations must be made in advance.

We then head to the town of Prado del Rey. Five kilometres away, in Cabezo de Hortales, the Roman city of Iptuci was founded in the second century B.C.E., where one can still see remains of its walls and towers, as well as some vestiges of pavements and architectural housing elements. The Roman city exploited the salt deposits found in the surrounding area, constructing salt mines in the middle of Sierra de Cadiz, which are the only ones in the interior that can be seen and even visited and which are still in operation to this day.

Roman sewer systems.Medina Sidonia.

Ancient roman salt mines of Iptuci. Prado del Rey.

Carteia. San Roque.


34

ROMAN THEATRE AND THE CENTRE FOR THEATRE INTERPRETATION, Calle Mesón, 13 – CádizO 677 982 945

HOUSE OF THE BISHOP ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE , Plaza Fray Félix, s/n – CádizO 956 264 734w www.lacasadelobispo.com Cerrado temporalmente

SALTING FACTORY, C/ Sacramento, 16 – CádizO 677 982 945

MUSEUM OF CADIz, Plaza de Mina, s/nO 856 105 034

ROMAN COLUMBARIA, General Ricardos, nº 5 –CádizO 956 203 385

REMAINS OF THE ROMAN AQUEDUCT, Plaza Asdrúbal, s/n – Cádiz

BAELO CLAUDIA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, Ensenada de Bolonia, s/n - TarifaO 956 106 797 - 956 106 793

OF INTEREST

ARCHAEOLOGICAL ENCLAVE OF CARTEIAE , Autovía A-7, Salida 116 - Guadarranque - San RoqueO Tel. 956 908 030 - 600 143 014

ROMAN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE OF ASIDO CAESARINA. , C/ Ortega, 10 - Medina Sidonia O 956 423 017 - 956 412 404

CARISSA AURELIA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, C/ Corredera, 6 - EsperaO 956 720 432

ANCIENT ROMAN SALT MINES OF IPTUCI, Ctra. Arcos-El Bosque, km. 25 – Prado del ReyO 956 723 205 - 639 46 75 12

OCURI ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, Ctra. Ubrique - Benaocaz, s/nSalto de la Mora - UbriqueO 956 464 900w www.ciudadromanadeocuri.es

We continue our journey by visiting the Roman city of Ocuri (second century C.E.) which is located on top of the Salto de la Mora (Ubrique), a limestone hill about a kilometre from the present village. Its strategic position, imposing height buttressed by its walls, and overall extent tells us that this municipality must have been greatly important. Outside the walls of the city is the necropolis and its most important monument: the mausoleum. We can also see its Cyclopean wall and the hot springs in the upper area. To arrange a visit, you must contact the Municipal Tourist Office of Ubrique.

And finally, we conclude the route admiring the Roman road from Benaocaz to Ubrique, from the first century B.C.E., which has been quite well preserved.

Baelo Claudia Salting Factory.Tarifa.



35

Castles and FortressesWith the Islamic presence and struggles between Muslims and Christians for territory, Cadiz began to be populated with castles, watchtowers, fortresses and citadels both along the coast and inland.

Supported by its history and geography, the province of Cadiz offers a wide-ranging catalogue of military architecture whose geographical dispersion means that this cultural route must be divided into TWO ITINERARIES so that it is more accessible to the traveller. The FIRST spans the Atlantic coast from the mouth of the river Guadalquivir until Tarifa, detouring into the Alcornocales natural park.

We began our trip at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, internationally known for its spectacular horse races along the beach, where one can admire the Santiago castle, built at the end of the fifteenth cen-tury. This imposing Gothic fortress functioned until 1645 as a

Castles and Fortresses

02.502.5

Sanlúcar de Barrameda: � Santiago Castle. Chipiona: � Chipiona Castle. Rota: � Luna Castle. El Puerto de Santa María: � San Marcos Castle. Cádiz: � Fortified city of Cadiz. San Fernando: � Castillo de San Romualdo. � Sancti Petri Castle. Conil de la Frontera: � Guzmán Tower. Vejer de la Frontera: � Vejer Castle. Zahara de los Atunes: � Almadrabas Castle. Tarifa: Guzmán el Bueno Castle. Castellar de la Frontera: Castellar Viejo Fortress. Jimena de la Frontera: Jimena de la Frontera Castle.

Medina Sidonia: � Castle, Doña Blanca Tower and Walled Precinct Doors. San José del Valle: � Gigonza Castle. Jerez de la Frontera: � Alcazar and the Dark Chamber. Arcos de la Frontera: � Arcos de la Frontera Castle. Bornos: � Palacio de los Ribera Castle. Espera: � Fatetar Castle. Villamartín: � Matrera Castle. Zahara de la Sierra: � Zahara de la Sierra Castle. Olvera: � Frontera y los Castillos Museum and Castle. Torre Alháquime: � Remains of the Torre Alháquime Castle. Setenil de las Bodegas: Remains of the Setenil Castle.

Castles and FortressesFROM THE COAST TO ALCORNOCALES

THROUGH THE COUNTRY-SIDE AND MOUNTAINS

36

Cultural Routes. Castles and Fortresses

ducal fortress, hosting illustrious figures such as Queen Isabella and Christopher Columbus. Only 8 km away is the fishing village of Chipiona, and its crenellated castle which today houses the Cadiz Interpretation of the New World Centre, together with its famous lighthouse, the tallest in Spain.

Continuing along the coast we arrive at Rota, whose most emblem-atic building is Luna castle from the thirteenth century. It has a rectangular ground floor with five crenellated towers and houses an original courtyard from the fifteenth century with a beautiful arched gallery and picturesque skirting. There are also preserved ruins of the walls, including Puerta de Regla or Chipiona, Sanlúcar and Puerta del Mar. A 20-minute drive to El Puerto de Santa María takes you to the San Marcos Castle, built over a mosque in the tenth century. It is now owned by Bodegas Caballero, who manage the visits.

Our next destination is the city of Cadiz, which presents a complex fortification system whose construction started in the sixteenth century to protect from the looting of 1596 by troops of the Earl of Essex. Robust walls and bastions surround part of the urban perim-eter. The visit starts at the Puertas de Tierra, whose half-bastions San Roque and Santa Elena are terraced. If we continue along the esplanade, we arrive at Campo del Sur, which borders the old town and allows us to contemplate the Capuchin and Mártires defensive bastions. La Caleta beach is guarded by two castles, Santa Catalina (sixteenth to seventeenth century) forming a three-pointed star on the side facing the sea, and San Sebastián completed during the eighteenth century. Both currently serve as cultural centres and exhibition spaces. The bastion of Candelaria and the walls of San Carlos, both found in the Apodaca boulevard, conclude our tour of the fortified city.

Luna Castle. Rota.

San Sebastian Castle. Cádiz.

37


From Cadiz, we follow on towards San Fernando, which has two fortresses in the municipality, the San Romualdo and the Sancti Petri Castles, facing the Chiclana de la Frontera beaches. If we continue to follow the Atlantic coastline we will find, in Conil de la Frontera, a succession of towers (Roche, Castilnovo, La Atalaya, etc.) that defended the area from attacks of all kinds with fire, smoke and artillery signals. The keep within the Conileño castle still remains almost as graceful as the first day it was constructed – albeit much transformed – under the orders of Guzmán El Bueno in the sixteenth century. Slightly off the coast, and on top of a nearby hill, sits Vejer, with its magnificent fortified complex and its well-preserved walls, towers (such as the Mayorazgo, Corredera and San Juan), doors (Sancho IV de la Villa, Cerrada and the Segur) and, of course, the cas-tle on a rectangular ground, three towers and the parade courtyard.

The need to defend fishing and trap netting activities, owned by of the dukes of Medina Sidonia, resulted in the construction of bunkers along the coast. Freely accessible, the Almadrabas Castle (sixteenth century) in Zahara de los Atunes (Barbate) had three functions: it was a castle against piracy, residential palace and chanca or crushing plant where the tuna was cut up, salted and prepared. It takes just over half an hour to arrive in Tarifa, where one of the walled enclosures from the Caliphate area can be found, one of the best preserved in Europe. There one can admire the castle of Guzman el Bueno with its belt of walls and doors, and visit the interpretation centre located inside.

Leaving the strait behind and entering Alcornocales natu-ral park we must not miss the extremely well-preserved Castellar de la Frontera fortress (twelfth-fifteenth centuries). Irregularly walled and flanked by towers, the gateway or Arco de la Villa and the fortress-palace, now a hotel and restaurant, are a sight to behold. Inside the castle

Setenil de las Bodegas

Tarifa Castle.

38

we can find one of the few examples of an inhabited fortress, called Castellar Viejo with its winding street layout that feels medieval. This first itinerary ends with a visit to the neighbour-ing monumental castle Jimena de la Frontera (thirteenth-fourteenth century).

The SECOND ITINERARY runs through the coun-tryside and the Cadiz mountains offering visits to magnificent monuments and a large number of rock castles. It begins in Medina Sidonia, where part of the old alcázar, originally a keep, is preserved. It is known today as the Doña Blanca tower – as are three of its main gates: the Pastora, Belén and Puerta del Sol arcs. On the road from Medina Sidonia to Arcos, just over 10 km from Paterna de Rivera and in the municipality of San José del Valle, we can find the famous Gigonza castle, of Arab origin. Although it is private property, it can be visited by appointment.

From there we head to Jerez de la Frontera, cradle of the Carthusian horse and flamenco, with its magnificent alcázar of Almohad ori-gin which was the residence of the Sevillian caliphs and Christian governors. Among its highlights are the mosque, which Alfonso X turned into the Chapel of Santa María la Real, the Moorish baths and the garden of Olivos, which harmonises with the baroque palace of Villavicencio and whose tower’s dark chamber can be enjoyed.

■❚❙ GUZMÁN EL BUENO’S SACRIFICEThe castle of Tarifa owes its name to the heroic deed by Alonso Pérez de Guzman, who in 1294, when he was commander of the fortress, sacrificed his son at the hands of the Muslims rather than surrendering the castle entrusted to him by the king. They say he threw his own knife from the octagonal tower to kill his son.

Jerez de la Frontera Alcazar

Zahara de la Sierra Castle.

Hot Arab baths in the Jerez de la Frontera Alcazar.


39


Now squarely in the Cadiz mountains, the Arcos de la Frontera fortress can be seen in all its corpulence, square and with crenel-lated towers at the cor-ners, the most noteworthy of which include the keep and the so-called Tower of the Secret. Although it is privately owned, there are a number of days per year when one can visit it, by appointment.

Continuing through the mountains we arrived at Bornos, which has a good example of a castle converted into a palace, with Renaissance architectural elements especially visible in its colonnaded court-yard and its magnificent windows. This castle-palace of the Ribera houses a Cultural and Tourist centre in its interior. Espera lies to the north, with its Fatetar castle from the thirteenth-fifteenth centuries, and is freely accessible. And about 20 km from there, in Cerro del Pajarete in the municipality of Villamartín, we find the Matrera castle, which underwent a controversial restoration despite having won the Architizer A+ international architecture award in the preservation category.

And so we come to two of the most spectacular villages in this province, Zahara de la Sierra, recognisable by the image of the castle’s graceful keep (thirteenth-fifteenth centuries), perched on a bluff overlooking the whitewashed houses of this medieval village; and Olvera, with its castle from the Moorish era (twelfth century). A visit to the Frontera y los Castillos Museum located in the magnificent Cilla building, offers the visitor a perspective of the important role

Fatetar Castle. Espera

Panoramic view of Arcos de la Frontera.

40


played by the Cadiz mountains as a frontier during the Moorish reign. This second itinerary is completed with the Torre Alháquime and Setenil de las Bodegas Towers, located along the north-eastern border with the neighbouring province of Malaga, which preserve some remains of their castles.

SANTIAGO CASTLE, Cava del CastilloO 956 923 500 – 637 834 846www.castillodesantiago.com

CHIPIONA MEDIEVAL CASTLE, Centro de Interpretación Cádiz y el Nuevo MundoO 956 929 065

LUNA CASTLE, Oficina de Turismo de Rota Visitas guiadas previa reserva O 956 846 345

SAN MARCOS CASTLE, Plaza del Castillo, s/n – El Puerto de Santa MaríaO Reservas: 627 569 335

SANCTI PETRI CASTLE, Isla de Sancti Petri - San Fernandow www.albarco.comw www.espacionautico.comw www.novojet.netLOGGIA, Gestión de Patrimonio Cultural, S.L.O 667 502 369 – 610 080 553

GUzMÁN TOWER, Oficina de Turismo de Conil de la FronteraO 956 440 501

OF INTEREST

VEJER DE LA FRONTERA CASTLE, Oficina municipal de TurismoO 956 451 736

GUzMÁN EL BUENO CASTLE, Centro de Interpretación del Castillo -TarifaO 956 68 4869

GIGONzA CASTLE, San José del ValleO Previa Cita Tel. 697 910 977

ALCAzAR AND THE DARK CHAMBER, Alameda Vieja, s/n – Jerez de la FronteraO 956 149 955 - 956 149 956

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA CASTLE, Oficina de Turismo de Arcos de la FronteraO Previa reserva - Tel. 956 702 264

PALACIO DE LOS RIBERA CASTLE , Centro Cultural y Turístico-BornosO 956 728 264

FRONTERA Y LOS CASTILLOS MUSEUM AND CASTLE, Edificio Cultural La Cilla- OlveraO 956 120 816

Olvera Castle

Palacio de los Ribera Castle. Bornos.


41

The commercial promises that encouraged great adventurers and explorers to set sail from the ports of Cadiz to distant lands has become an extraordinary cultural legacy that circumvents the Atlantic and binds the south of Andalusia with Latin America.

We start our tour in Cadiz, an ancient city that experienced one of the moments of greatest splendour in its history since the discovery of America, becoming a point of departure for numerous commer-cial expeditions. But it is not until the eighteenth century when it becomes commercially important, when the monarch Felipe II moves the Casa de Contratación from Seville to Cadiz, an important milestone that the city will commemorate in 2017; celebrating its 300th anniversary.

A walk along the Cadiz waterfront from the Caleta to the Campo del Sur evokes images of the Malecon in Havana. The sea is visible from the New Cathedral, which combines baroque and neoclassical styles. Adding to its gold-tiled coated dome is a majestic interior, in whose crypt lies the musician Manuel de Falla and the writer José María Pemán.

The prosperous bourgeois who lived in the city and the prominent families of shippers to the Indias built their palaces and mansions with spectacular baroque façades in the streets near the port; and from their towers they could watch the arrival of their ships. One can admire the Sopranis and Lilacs houses on calle Sopranis. Other

The American RouteThe American RouteThe American Route02.602.6

� Cádiz. � El Puerto de Santa María. � Jerez de la Frontera � Sanlúcar de Barrameda� Chipiona

American Route


42

beautiful houses include the home of the Admiral, the Lasquetty house, the Cadenas, Cinco Torres and Cuatro Torres houses and the Tower of Tavira, with a dark chamber in its interior.

To protect their wealth and riches from pirate attacks the city chose to raise new and modern defences. Still in perfect condition, the San Sebastián and Santa Catalina castles, the Puerta de Tierra, the bastions of La Candelaria, Capuchin and Mártires and the walls of San Carlos can be visited.

From Cadiz we will move on to El Puerto de Santa María. It was the site of one of the Captaincies General of the Mar Océana and its shipyards would equip many of the ships to

sail to the Indias. We can still admire the Ribera del Guadalete area (the dry docks, wharves and dockyards), the former Customs Ducal, former wharf of Galeras and the Royal Galeras fountains today. In the Cultural Centre Alfonso X El Sabio a facsimile reproduction of the world map of Juan de la Cosa along with documents on Christopher Columbus’ stay in the city is exhibited.

Its mercantilist status turned it into a residence for entrepreneurs on their way to the Indias, who, upon building their luxury homes, made up a monumental ensemble laced with beautiful Baroque houses-palaces. It was known as the “City of the Hundred Palaces” in the eighteenth century because of its outstanding buildings such as the Vizarrón, the Reinoso Mendoza, Aranibar, Valdivieso, Purullena and Varela house-palaces, among many others.

We turn now towards Jerez de la Frontera, which was at that time one of the most prosperous cities in Andalusia thanks to agricultural and livestock and exports of its wines throughout Europe and America. This splendour drove the construction of monuments as important as the cathedral and the magnificent Cartuja de Santa María de la Defensión. Its old town offers authentic pedigree neighbourhoods, with hidden streets, squares and corners where fountains and orange trees are lost amongst the palaces and manor houses, Gothic churches and ancient cellars.

Cathedral of Cadiz House of the Cinco Torres.

Juan de la Cosa, cartographer in

1500 of the first world map to include

the Americas, was the owner of the

Santa María which he would master

on Christopher Columbus' first

expedition.


43

Cultural Routes. The American Route

Our next destination is a 25km-drive away: Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which was an important, overseas, commer-cial enclave for trade between America and the Port of Seville sponsored by the dukes of Medina Sidonia. An American influence can be seen in all the historical sites, from the merchants’ residences and the Marquis de Arizón’s man-sion with its lookout tower, to the churches such as Santo Domingo and convents such as

the Merced (now the Merced Auditorium) and the Capuchin, without forgetting the Renaissance Guzman or the dukes of Medina Sidonia palaces, with their magnificent collections of art and a valuable historical archive.

The sailors Ferdinand Magellan and Juan Sebastián Elcano left on an expedition from this town which would become the first to circumvent the globe. This is one of the historical events which the exhibition that can be seen at the Interpretation of the New World Centre in Chipiona is based on, dedicated to the relationship the province of Cadiz has with the discovery, colonisation and exploitation of the New World, and where our route ends.

TAVIRA TOWER - DARK CHAMBER, C/ Marqués del Real Tesoro, nº 10 – CádizO 956 212 910w www.torretavira.com

CULTURAL CENTRE ALFONSO X EL SABIO, Punto expositivo sobre Cristóbal Colón y Juan de la Cosa.C/ Virgen de los Milagros, 89- El Puerto de Santa María

PALACE OF THE GUzMANES – CASA MEDINA SIDONIA FOUNDATION, Plaza Condes de Niebla – Sanlúcar de BarramedaO 956 360 161 - 617607389w www.fcmedinasidonia.com

INTERPRETATION OF THE NEW WORLD CENTRE, C/Castillo, 5- ChipionaO 956 929 065 - 956 929 084w www.aytochipiona.es

OF INTEREST

Jerez de la Frontera Carthusians monastery.

Former Convent of La Merced (now Auditorium).

Art Collection of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia Palace.


44

This route runs through the two cities that were protagonists during one of Spain's most important moments in modern history: Cadiz and San Fernando.

It is the year 1812. Napoleon’s troops have invaded the country and the politicians who have escaped the siege have taken refuge in the south of the peninsula, in the province of Cadiz, as its geographical posi-tion is impregnable. San Fernando first and Cadiz later will receive the Deputies who authored

the 1812 Constitution, the first liberal Constitution of Spain and Europe and one of the most modern of its time. The signing of the text was celebrated by thousands of inhabitants of Cadiz with a civic procession through the city. We will now follow in their footsteps.

We leave Plaza España where the monument that was made to com-memorate the centenary of the Constitution is located. Also located in this plaza is the Provincial Government palace and the former Customs Building, from where the La Pepa procession started. After a tour down the Apodaca boulevard, we find the baroque Carmen church, where the “Te Deum” was held for the completion of the con-stitutional text. Very close to this location is the Plaza del Mentidero, today full of terraces where you can sit and have something to eat or drink.

In the Plaza de San Antonio, a space for civil and religious gatherings during the nineteenth century, you can admire buildings such as the Aramburu house, the Cadiz Casino or the building that hosted the Café Apolo, a location for political gatherings. Calle Torre takes us to the oratory of San Felipe Neri, an important place on our route as it was here that the Magna Carta was drafted and sealed. Inside the chapel of the Sagrario, the main altarpiece presided over by a painting by Murillo representing the Immaculate Conception is worth

ConstitutionRoute of the 1812 ConstitutionRoute of the 1812 Constitution

02.702.7

Monument to commemorate the Constitution. Cádiz.

45

Cultural Routes. Route of the 1812 Constitution

noting. The La Pepa 2012 interpretation centre is located in an annex to the oratory, and nearby is the Cortes de Cadiz Museum, whose main attraction is the large model of the city in 1777.

We head now towards calle Ancha, which was the aristocratic centre of the city, and then to calle Rosario, to visit the Santa Cueva oratorio and contemplate three paintings by Goya. We end our tour of the capital with a visit to the plaza and street of San Francisco, a shop-ping area with cafés, taverns and kitchens that was also frequented by socialites from this area in the twelfth century.

Route of the 1812 Constitution� Cádiz. � San Fernando.

Model of the city of Cadiz in 1777. Cortes of Cadiz Museum

Exhibition Hall of the Cortes of Cadiz Museum

San Felipe Neri Oratory.

46

The other important city along this consti-tutional route is the ancient island of León, San Fernando today. In the Real Teatro de las Cortes, then called the Teatro Cómico, the General and Extraordinary Courts of Spain were held for the first time in the middle of the Napoleonic invasion and were maintained until they moved to Cadiz in February 1811. During this period the seat of government of the nation was established in the current convent of the Enseñanza de María, located in calle Real, an artery of the city.

SAN FELIPE NERI ORATORY, C/ Santa Inés, s/n – CádizO 662 642 233

CORTES DE CADIz MUSEUM, C/Santa Inés, 9 – CádizO 956 221 788

OF INTEREST

LA PEPA 2012 INTERPRETATION CENTRE, Plaza de San Felipe Neri – CádizO 697 959 727

REAL TEATRO DE LAS CORTES, C/ Cortes, s/n – San FernandoO 956 944 226w www.realteatrodelascortes.com

■❚❙ SAN FERNANDO AND THE NAPOLEONIC TROOPSThe most significant events from the defence of the island are recreated every year by the islanders. In June the naval battle of 1808 is commemorated. In the months of July and August the defence of the Sancti Petri castle, and in September the defence of the Real Isla de León (the army withdrawal from Extremadura, the battle of Portazgo and Adoption of the 1812 Constitution). The representation of the painting by Casado del Alisal, which presides over the Congress of Deputies – is also worth seeing.

Santa Cueva Oratory. Cadiz. “La Pepa 2012” Interpretation Centre. Cadiz.

Omelettes (French omelette in Spanish)

had their names coined when the

French invaded Spain and first made their

appearance at the inns near the streets of

San Francisco because of food shortages

(including potatoes) during the siege of the

Napoleonic troops.


Cultural Routes. Route of the 1812 Constitution


47

Spectacular landscapes, idyllic beaches, an ancient history and a mild climate are the reasons why the province of Cadiz is the perfect natural stage, sought after for decades by directors like Steven Spielberg and Pedro Almodovar.

Who does not remember Halle Berry’s sensual bath in Die Another Day (2002) with the Santa Catalina castle in the background and a handsome Pierce Brosnan with a mojito in hand waiting at the Palma spa bar, converted into a hotel, on the beach of La Caleta? But Cadiz was not Cadiz, it was Havana, and the Campo del Sur was the island’s malecon. This was not the first time it had been passed off as another city; in 1979 the city dressed up in Cuban clothes to recreate a car chase in the film Cuba, starring Sean Connery.

The “Tacita de plata” (Cadiz is known as “The Silver Tea Cup” because of its light and the way the city is reflected in the sea) was also transformed for the Hollywood film Knight & Day (2010), starring Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz. The film shot an exciting motorcycle chase through the streets of the historic centre while a San-Fermin-styled running of the bulls took place in the background.

More than three decades ago, Steven Spielberg was so fascinated by the sunset in a small town in the Cadiz countryside called Trebujena that when his film crew were looking for sunsets in Israel and Kenya for Empire of the Sun (1987), a film based on the Second World

Film DestinationFilm Destination02.8

Film Destinations� Cádiz. � Trebujena. � Jerez de la Frontera. � Puerto Real. � San Fernando. � Conil de la Frontera. � Los Caños de Meca. � Barbate. � Tarifa. � Los Barrios.

Algeciras. La Línea de la Concepción.

48

Cultural Routes. Film Destination

War, he suggested that they would find the perfect one there. He had found “his sun”. On the marshlands of the ‘Alventus’ on the banks of the Guadalquivir, the director set up a train station, an airport, an Olympic stadium and a Japanese concentration camp, with its hospital.

The Strait of Gibraltar and nearby towns have also starred in numerous films such as El Niño (2014) by Daniel Monzón, where much of its filming took place in Algeciras or Alatriste (2005), whose opening shots in Andalusia took place in the dunes of Punta Paloma, where a galleon 30 metres large was built on the Valdevaqueros beach in Tarifa.The landing of Alatriste was filmed on Castilnovo b e a c h , in Conil, while the

San Sebastian castle in the capital was the prison where the swordsman recruited several fellow adventurers.

, ■❚❙ SCENES FILMED IN CADIZEmpire of the Sun by Steven Spielberg (1987) in Trebujena. La Ley del Deseo by Pedro Almodóvar (1987) Cadiz, Conil de la Frontera, Jerez de la Frontera. Bajarse al moro by Fernando Colomo (1988) Cadiz. La Caja 507 by Enrique Urbizu (2001) Cadiz, Tarifa and La Línea de la Concepción. Die Another Day with Pierce Brosnan and Halle Berry (2002) Cadiz and Puerto Real. Atún y chocolate by Pedro Carbonell (2003) Barbate. Alatriste by Agustin Díaz Yanes (2005) Cadiz, Tarifa and Conil de la Frontera. Camarón by Jaime Chávarri (2005) San Fernando. La carta esférica by Imanol Uribe (2007) Algeciras. Retorno a Hansala by Chus Gutiérrez (2008) Algeciras and Los Barrios. Sólo quiero caminar by Agustín Díaz Yanes (2008) Cadiz, Algeciras and Caños de Meca. Knight & Day with Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz (2010) Cadiz. Miel de naranjas by Imanol Uribe (2012) Jerez de la Frontera. El Niño by Daniel Monzón (2014) Gibraltar, Tarifa and La Línea de la Concepción.

■❚❙ JEAN RENO AND CADIZFrench actor of Spanish origin, Juan Moreno Jiménez, better known as Jean Reno, has had the title of Adoptive Son of the province of Cadiz since 2006, as his parents were from that region; his mother from Jerez and father from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, they initially escaped Franco’s Spain to North Africa and subsequently moved to Marseille.

In the Botanical Garden of Los

Barrios there is a famous twentieth-

century Baldwin locomotive train

that has appeared in films such as

Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade,

Doctor Zhivago, The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and For a Few Dollars More.



49

Circuits of InterestCircuits of Interest

0303

Circuits of Interest. Bay of Cadiz

Bay of Cadiz

22 km

CÁDIZ•Cadiz: New Cathedral, Old

Cathedral (Santa Cruz Church), Phoenician site of Gadir, Roman Theatre and Interpretation Centre, Wal led c i ty (San Sebastian and Santa Catalina Castles, the Puerta de Tierra, the bastions of La Candelaria, Capuchin and Mártires and the Walls of San Carlos), the Cadiz Museum, San Felipe Neri Oratory and 1812 Constitution Interpretation Centre, Cortes of Cadiz Museum, Torre Tavira-Dark Chambers, Santa Cueva Oratory, the Cinco Torres and Cuatro Torres houses, home of the Almirante, Gran Teatro Falla, Barrio de la Viña, Caleta Beach and Balneario La Palma.

+ Suggestions

SAN FERNANDO•Sancti Petri Island and Castle.•San Fernando: San Romualdo

Castle, Historic Site “Suazo Bridge and Other Fortifications”, Town Hall, Real Teatro de las Cortes, Iglesia Mayor, Carraca Arsenal, the Navy Royal Insti-tute and Observatory, the Naval Museum, Pantheon of the Illus-trious Marine, the Historical Museum, Camaron de la Isla Route and Museum.

CHICLANA DE LA FRONTERA•Sancti Petri and home of the

Farero.•Chiclana: Municipal Museum,

Clock Tower, Church of San Juan Bautista, Chapel of Santa Ana, Francisco Montes Paquiro Municipal Museum.

Route 1CÁDIz - SAN FERNANDO - CHICLANA DE LA FRONTERA

Wines with Designation of Origin, Jerez Vinegar, Jerez Brandy, Almond Cakes from the Augustines Convent (Chiclana de la Frontera), Ceramics.

Fried fish, Shrimp Fritters, Adobo, Clams, Sea Snails, Ortiguilllas, Fish from Estero, Pestiños.

50


Circuits of Interest. Nombre capítulo y sección

32 km

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA•Cartuja de Santa María de la

Defensión.•Jerez: Cathedral, Alcazar and the

Dark Chamber, Gothic churches of Santiago, San Miguel and San Mateo, Mudejar Church of San Dionisio and San Lucas, Cloisters of Santo Domingo, Bertemati Palace, Palace of the Viceroy Laserna, Municipal Archaeological Museum, Muse-ums of Atalaya, the Vollard Suite Museum (Bodega Real Tesoro), Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and Museums of Horse Carriages and Eques-trian Art.

EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA•Doña Blanca Archaeological site.

•El Puerto: Priory basilica, San Marcos Castle, las Galeras Fountain, Victoria Monestary, Vizarrón and Aranibar palace-house, Cultural Center Alfonso X El Sabio, Rafael Alber ti Foundation Museum, Pedro Muñoz Seca Museum, Municipal Archaeological Museum.

PUERTO REAL•Historical Museum El Dique•Puerto Real: Priory Church of San

Sebastian, Callejon del Arco.

Route 2JEREz DE LA FRONTERA - EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA - PUERTO REAL

Wine route through the Bodegas del Marco de Jerez, Golf and Water Sports, Relaxing in the Fuente Amarga Spa (Chiclana de la Frontera) the Jerez Zoo, World Motorbike Championship (Jerez de la Frontera).

51

Circuits of Interest. Bay of CadizCircuits of Interest. Bay of Cadiz

Bajo Guadalquivir

Route 1CHIPIONA - ROTA

16 km

CHIPIONA•Chipiona: “Cadiz and the New

World” Castle and Interpreta-tion Centre, the Lighthouse, the Shrine of Our Lady of Regla, Parish of Our Lady of O, Humil-ladero, Rocio Jurado Museum Collection and the Museum of Muscatel.

ROTA•Rota: Luna Castle, Remains of

the medieval walls (the doors of Regla, Sanlúcar and Mar), Our Lady of O Parish Church, Torre de la Merced and Inter-pretation Centre Mayetería.

Route 2SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA-TREBUJENA

23 km

SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA•Sanlúcar: Santiago Castle, Casa

de la Cilla, Our Lady of O Parish Church, Santo Domingo Church, Basilica of Our Lady of Charity, Palace of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, Orleans Palace and Borbón-City Hall, Auditory of la Merced, the Covachas, Mytho-logical Cadiz Interpretation Cen-tre, Barbadillo Museum of Man-zanilla, Seafarers’ quarter Bajo de Guia.

TREBUJENA•Trebujena: Remains of the cas-

tle and Parish of the Immacu-late Conception.

Manzanilla de Sanlúcar, Chipiona Muscatel and Mosto from Trebujena.

Sanlúcar prawns, muscat grapes, Urta a la roteña, Garbanzos como conejos typical dish, Shrimp, Eels, artisan Sanlúcar Ice Cream.

Visit to the wineries, Birdwatching, the ‘Sanlúcar-Guadalquivir-Doñana’ Fluvial Route in the Real Fernando Ship, visit the Fishing Weir in Rota and Chipiona.

+ Suggestions

52

Circuits of Interest. Bajo GuadalquivirCircuits of Interest. Bajo Guadalquivir


Campo de Gibraltar

Circuits of Interest. Campo de Gibraltar

Route 1TARIFA - ALGECIRAS - LOS BARRIOS

65 km

TARIFA•Baelo Claudia Archaeological

Complex (BolonIa). •Tarifa: Walled city and Guzmán

el Bueno Castle, Santa Catalina Castle, Santa María, San Fran-cisco and San Mateo Churches.

ALGECIRAS•Algeciras: Archaeological com-

plex of Medieval Walls, Inter-pretation Centre of Andalusian culture, Our Lady of La Palma Church and Paco de Lucia route.

LOS BARRIOS•Fishing village of Palmones

(Gastronomic Centre of Campo de Gibraltar).

•Los Barrios: Urrutia House, Church of San Isidro Labrador and Betty Molesworth Botani-cal Park.

Route 2LA LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN - SAN ROQUE - CASTELLAR DE LA FRONTERA - JIMENA DE LA FRONTERA

55 km

LA LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN•La Línea: Church of the Immac-

ulate, Cruz Herrera Museum, Istmo Linense Bunkers and Atunara Seafarers’ gastronomic quarter.

SAN ROQUE•Carteia Archaeological site.•San Roque: Santa María Coro-

nada Church and Ortega Brú Museum.

CASTELLAR DE LA FRONTERA•Castellar: Fortress and medieval

enclosure Castellar Viejo.

JIMENA DE LA FRONTERA•Sanctuary of Our Lady of the

Angels.•Jimena: Castle Archaeological

Site.

Cork crafts, Fishing preserves with Protected Geographical Indication from Melva de Andalucía and Caballa de Andalucía.

Bluefin tuna, Salted fish, Mushrooms (Chanterelle) and Meats and Game.

Birdwatching and Whale watching in the Strait, Surfing, Windsurfing, Kitesurfing. Collecting Mushrooms in the Alcornocales, Tuna and Bull routes.

+ Suggestions

53


Sierra de Cadiz -Pueblos Blancos

60 km

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA•Arcos: Ducal Castle, remains

of Arab walls and Puerta de Matrera, Basilica of Santa María, San Pedro Church, Interpretation Centre Cuidad de Arcos (CICA), Conde del Aguila Palace, May-orazgo Palace and Andalusian (Andalusí) Garden.

BORNOS•Bornos: Ribera Castle-Palace

and its Gardens and Cultural and Tourist Centre, Ordonez and Cilla Houses, Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

ESPERA•Carissa Aurelia Archaeological

Site.

32 km

UBRIQUE•Roman city of Ocuri•Ubrique: Capuchin Convent

and ‘Manos y Magia en la Piel’ (Hands and Magic in Leather) Permanent Exhibition, Interpreta-tion Centre ‘San Juan de Letran’.

+ Suggestions

•Espera: Archaeological Museum, Fatetar Castle and Santiago Her-mitage, Diezmos Mill and Cilla House, Church of Santa María de Gracia.

VILLAMARTÍN•Dolmens of Alberite.•Matrera Castle.

PUERTO SERRANO•Fuente de Ramos Necropolis.

Route 1ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA-BORNOS - ESPERA - VILLAMARTÍN - PUERTO SERRANO

Route 2UBRIQUE - BENAOCAz - VILLALUENGA DEL ROSARIO - GRAzALEMA - EL BOSQUE-PRADO DEL REY

Grazalema blankets, Pottery, Leather Goods, Cork Crafts, Olive Oils with Designation of Origin, ‘Sierra de Cadiz’ Mosto Pajarete, Honey, Liquors and jams and payoya handmade goat cheeses.

Asparagus and Golden thistle, Trout, Lamb, Deer, Boar and Game Meat, Cold Cuts and Sausages, Payoyo Cheese.

54

Circuits of Interest. Sierra de Cádiz - Pueblos Blancos

Circuits of Interest. Nombre capítulo y secciónCircuits of Interest. Bay of Cadiz

32 km

ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA•Zahara: Remains of Castle

and Keep, Clock Tower, the picturesque town centre, Villa Medieval Interpretation Centre.

BENAOCAZ•Remains of the Roman Road.•Benaocaz: Nazari quarters and

Historical Ecomuseum.

VILLALUENGA DEL ROSARIO•Villaluenga: Bull Ring, Church

of the Savior, House of the poet Pedro Pérez Clotet and Cheese Museum.

GRAZALEMA•Village of Benamahoma.•Grazalema: Texti le Crafts

Museum.

EL BOSQUEEl Bosque: Botanical Garden ‘El Castillejo’ Bull Ring, Cheese Interpretation Centre.

PRADO DEL REY•Iptuci and Salinas de Cabezo

Hortales.

Route 3zAHARA DE LA SIERRA - OLVERA - TORRE ALHÁQUIME - ALCALÁ DEL VALLE - SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS - EL GASTOR

Aerial sports, Paragliding and Hang Gliding (Algodonales and El Bosque), Birdwatching, Caving, Water Sports on the artificial beach of Zahara de la Sierra, Hiking through the natural park Sierra de Grazalema, Visit to the Cheese Dairies.

55

Circuits of Interest. Sierra de Cádiz - Pueblos Blancos

OLVERA•Olvera: Medieval fortress with

walls, Towers and the Keep, ‘Olvera. La Frontera y los Castil-los’ Museum Archpriest of Our Lady of the Incarnation Church.

TORRE-ALHÁQUIME•Torre-Alháquime: Remains of

medieval walls and Arco de la Villa.

ALCALÁ DEL VALLE•Dolmens of Tomillo.•Caños Santos Convent.

SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS•Setenil: Picturesque old town,

Church of the Incarnation and remains of the medieval Castle.

EL GASTOR•Dolmen of El Charcón.•El Gastor: José María “El Tempra-

nillo” Museum of Customs and Traditions.

La Janda

Ceramics and Pottery, Saddlery, Salted Fish and Preserves, Sweets from Medina SidoniaBluefin tuna, Mojama, Rock fish, Meats and Game Meat, Cold Cuts and Sausages, Rillettes, Artichokes, Asparagus and Golden thistles, Snails.

Birdwatching, Nudism, Tuna Ronqueo (hand skinning and filleting), Berrea (during rut), Tuna and Bull Routes.

+ Suggestions

56

Circuits of Interest. La Janda

Route 1CONIL DE LA FRONTERA - VEJER DE LA FRONTERA - BARBATE

30 km

CONIL DE LA FRONTERA•R o c h e a n d C a s t i l n o v o

Watchtowers.•Conil: The Bastion, Guzmán Tower

and Puerta de la Villa, Raíces Conileñas Museum, Fishing Port and La Chanca.

VEJER DE LA FRONTERA•Roman aqueduct of Santa Lucía.•Foundation NMAC Museum of

Contemporary Art.•Vejer: Castle, walled city flanked

by four doors (Segur, Sancho IV, la Villa and Puerta Cerrada Arches) and two towers: Torre del Mayor-azgo and Torre de la Corredera; Jewish Quarter, Mayorazgo, Parish Church of the Divine Saviour, the Vejeriegos Patios and San Miguel Windmills.

BARBATE•Fishing village of zahara and

Almadrabas Castle.•Meca beacon towers and the

Tajo.•Barbate: Albufera Port, Church of

Our Lady of Carmen, and the Tuna Museum of Chanca.

Route 2BENALUP-CASAS VIEJAS - ALCALÁ DE LOS GAzULES - MEDINA SIDONIA - SAN JOSÉ DEL VALLE

75 km

BENALUP-CASAS VIEJAS•Rock shelters of El Tajo de las

Figures.•Celemín Dolmens.ALCALÁ DE LOS GAZULES•Shrine of Our Lady of Saints

Hermitage.•Alcalá de los Gazules: Remains

of the Castle and Muslim Walls, Church of San Jorge, Salada Roman Deposits.

MEDINA SIDONIA•Visigoth chapel of the Holy

Martyrs.•Medina Sidonia: Archaeological

Site Cerro del Castillo, Roman Archaeological Site Asido Caesa-rina and Archaeological Museum, Roman Road, Medieval Walled City (Puerta de Belén, Arco de la Pastora, Puerta del Sol, canvases of the old wall and tower), Church of Santa María la Coronada.

SAN JOSÉ DEL VALLE•Gigonza Castle.

The Cultural Sphere

The Cultural Sphere

0404

The Cultural Sphere. Nombre capítulo y sección

Cadiz MuseumCadiz MuseumThe museum collection is divided into three sections. The chance discovery in 1887 of a male Phoenician anthropoid sarcophagi, on the premises of the Cadiz Shipyards was only the start of an archaeological period which currently includes pieces from Prehistory to medieval times – some as exceptional as the aforementioned Phoenician anthropoid sarcoph-agus (the female partner was found in 1980) or the thoracate, a Roman bronze statue of an emperor found in the vicinity of the islet of Sancti Petri, similar to another statue of a Hercules from Cadiz.

The fine arts section takes us on a journey of paintings from the sixteenth century until today. A collection of works painted by Zurbarán for the Cartuja de Jerez between 1637 and 1639, Murillos, the copper piece attributed to Rubens and several paintings from the nine-teenth and twentieth centuries by artists such as zuloaga, Sorolla, Guillermo Pérez Villalta and Chema Cobo, as well as a Miró stand out. The monographic visit to the third section of the Museum – ethnography – focuses on the puppets of Tía Norica, and recreates this tradi-tional Cadiz street spectacle. Both the plot and

the characters repeat a series of classi-cal prototypes: the grouchy old woman, the cheeky nephew and the unintelligible doctor.

, Plaza de Mina, s/n. CádizO Reservations: 856 105 034 - Information: 856 105 023w http://www.museosdeandalucia.es/culturaydeporte/museos/MCA

■❚❙ Pinillos houseThis excellent example of a bourgeois house from the early eighteenth century is attached to the Museum and used as a new and modern space for cultural activities.

The Cultural Sphere. MuseumsThe Cultural Sphere. Museums

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The Cultural Sphere. Museums

Cortes de Cadiz Museum

The Puppet Museum

Cortes de Cadiz Museum

The Puppet Museum

Located in the historical centre of the city and next to the San Felipe Neri oratory, this building of neo-classical inspiration is dedicated to the history of Cadiz during the eighteenth century and the first quarter of the nineteenth century, especially the Cadiz Cortes and the 1812 Constitution. Its centre-piece is the large relief map of the city, popularly known as the “Model of Cadiz”, which reflects the state of intramural Cadiz early in the fourth quarter of the eighteenth century. It was made at the behest of Carlos III, by a large team of craftsmen led by the military engineer Alfonso Jiménez, from timber of various qualities (mahogany, holly, cedar, bully tree, and ebony), ivory, bone and silver. The same room is complemented by the monumental canvas by Salvador Viniegra, made between 1910-1912, entitled “La Promulgación de la Constitución de 1812” (The Promulgation of the 1812 Constitution).

The magnificent vaults of the Puertas de Tierra welcome visitors to this museum space whose main purpose is to exhibit, document and preserve the memory of both Spanish and international puppeteers, companies, craftsmen and artists. In regard to the exterior, the for-mer soldiers’ courtyard was made into a garden as a transition zone between the city and the museum, guiding visitors inside through small areas representing puppets. The permanent exhibition “Títeres del Mundo” has a collection of more than 500 items, including 350 international puppets.

, C/ Santa Inés, nº 9 – CádizO 956 221 788

, Bóvedas de Sta. Elena (Puertas de Tierra)- CádizO 956 276 846

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Rafael Alberti Foundation Museum


, C/ Santo Domingo, 25. El Puerto de Santa María, CádizO 956 850 711 - 956 850 960w www.rafaelalberti.es

Rafael Alberti Foundation MuseumRafael Alberti Foundation Museum

The ground floor of Rafael Alberti’s birthplace in El Puerto de Santa María houses the permanent exhibition Rafael Alberti: Un siglo de creación viva (A century of living creation). The biography of the poet emerges along the halls and in large panels in a unique chronological tour of his history, with photos and drawings where the legendary art-ist’s life, his literary and pictorial work, ideology and thirty-nine years of exile in France, Argentina and Italy, are reflected in faithful detail. Documents, honours, awards, letters and Alberti’s books translated into different languages are shown. The first floor is the audio-visual room, with projections about the poet; the María Teresa León hall is dedicated to the writer and Alberti’s first wife; and the final room is the Foundation’s library, with more than seven thousand volumes.

Palacio del TiempoPalacio del TiempoPalacio del Tiempo

The Palacio del Tiempo houses one of the three best collections of antique clocks in Europe, with nearly 300 pieces dating from the eighteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Watchmakers such as Le Roy, Berthoud, Frodsham, Losada, Markhan, Lepine and Clodion, among others, are present in an in-depth collection of the most outstanding watchmakers of the time, from when the watchmaker was just another servant-craftsman in the Courts, to when they were specialists and scholars, entrepreneurs who went on to create prestige “brands”. Interestingly, it is the only watch museum whose items still function correctly, be sure to not miss their chiming.

, C/ Cervantes, 3- Jerez de la FronteraO 956 182 100w www.museosdelaatalaya.com

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The Vollard Suite Collection, Ctra. N-IV, Km 640 - Grupo Estévez - Bodegas Real Tesoro, Valdespino y Manzanilla - Jerez de la FronteraO 956 321 004 w www.grupoestevez.es/suitevollard

The Vollard Suite Collection

The Vollard Suite collection is considered the most important work in the history of etchings. It was made by Picasso between September 1930 and June 1936 and consists of 97 prints and three portraits of Ambrosie Vollard, the historical gallery owner who gave the artist his first exhibition. The prints can be classified into four main themes: the Sculptor’s Workshop, the Minotaur, Rembrandt and the Battle of Love. The anxiety, melancholy and eroticism seen in the pieces have much to do with Picasso’s personal life at the time. To which we must add that these were times of war in Spain. Some of these prints give us clues to what would be his masterpiece: Guernica.

The Naval MuseumThe Naval Museum

Throughout the 21 rooms of the San Fernando Naval Museum, located in the building of the former Capitanía General del Estrecho, there are items as interesting as sailor votive offerings, paintings of cruisers and battleships, the first figurehead who led the Juan Sebastian Elcano training vessel and a facsimile of the famous letter of 1500 by Juan de la Cosa, not to mention model boats of different ages and sizes, uniforms, medals, weapons, flags, maps, nautical instruments, and the list continues. Room 18 is dedicated to the commemoration of the bicentenary of the naval battle of Trafalgar (21 October 1805), with a model of the ship “Victory” as well as a reproduction of the interior of the hold of a ship at the time, while in Room 19 you can admire a cannon used in Trafalgar, empty of its load, which has been taken out because when it sunk, it was loaded and ready to fire.

, C/Escaño s/n - Edificio de Capitanía - San FernandoO 956 545 248

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Its origins are the former German Lithography of Cadiz, which was estab-lished in 1861 and was in operation until the late twentieth century. The museum has an important collection of more than one thousand litho-graphic stones from the quarries of Bavaria that are of high quality, some

of which are true works of art in regard to antique prints and draw-ings. You can also see the presses and different techniques and models, design and drawing tables, pantographs, guillotines, book-binding tools, etc.

Its rooms are spread over several historical buildings such as the Contaduría, canon Termineli and dean Rajón houses and the Mudéjar courtyard, all erected during the six-teenth century around the tower of the Old Cathedral. Through the Mudéjar courtyard, where Roman and medieval remains can be seen, there is access to a series of rooms that exhibit tables, paintings, ivories and sculptures of great value, as well as monstrances, chalices and other important works of gold and silver from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. There is a room dedicated to the Las Cortes de Cadiz de 1812, wherein lies the table on which the Constitution was allegedly signed.


Cathedral Museum

Lithographic Workshop Museum

Reina Sofia Cultural Centre

The former Military Government building, a true jewel of its time, now houses the “Reina Sofia” cultural centre, opened in October 2006 by Her Majesty Queen Sofia; its main claim are the works by Juan Luis Vasallo, one of the most renowned Spanish sculptors of the twentieth century. Author of Minerva from the Fine Arts circuit in Madrid, 140 of his pieces and 20 original drawings donated by his family are exhibited in this space. Here one can also admire the legacy of the Aramburu Picardo Family.

, Paseo Carlos III, 9- Cádiz O 956 221 680 - 956 227 624

, Plaza Fray Félix, s/n – Cádiz O 956 259 812w www.catedraldecadiz.com

, Bóvedas de S. Roque – Cádiz O 956 282 663

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The pieces that make up this collection are derived almost entirely from the numerous archaeological sites in the municipality, including the Roman site Asta Regia near Mesas de Asta and the Islamic site Sharish in the city of Jerez. It offers the possibility of taking a “quick tour” through a selection of thirteen pieces which are representative of each cultural period. Each of these items is exhibited with a black frame on a red background. The Greek Corinthian Helmet stands out amongst the items as it is one of the oldest Greek testimonies from the western area.

Located in a vineyard dating from the early nineteenth century, it is the only one of its kind where carriages, harnesses, horses and equestrian clothing can be admired together. The main hall displays the most emblematic carriages and vintage cars from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The tour continues through the stables and the work area to observe how they cleaned and took care of the car-riages and harnessed the horses to them. Between both spaces, an audiovisual piece shows the life of the horses of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, which is the proprietor of the Equestrian Art Museum.


Archaeological Museum of Jerez

Horse Carriages Museum

Casa Pedro Muñoz Seca Museum

Based in the former Compañía de Jesús school, the permanent exhibition Pedro Muñoz Seca: el humor dentro y fuera del teatro, offers a vision of a great writer infused with the same humour that characterised his life and work and turned it into a myth of laughter and wit. Photographs, posters, cartoons, manuscripts, first editions of his works, personal items, letters and even the playwright’s desk are exhibited.

, Edificio San Luis. Plaza del Ave María- El Puerto de Santa María O 956 851 731 w www.fundacionpedromunozseca.org

, Plaza del Mercado, s/n – Jerez de la Frontera O 956 149 560 - 956 149 561 w www.museoarqueologico.jerez.es

, C/ Pizarro 17- Jerez de la Frontera O 956 181 050w www.realescuela.org

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The Dique Museum and the historic area where it is located, the ship-yard in Puerto Real (both declared Sites of Cultural Interest), occupy a visitable space of 60,000 m2, and are both a living testament to the ship construction and repair industry in the Bay of Cadiz from the second half of the nineteenth century. The building that is the museum can be found in the former bailing pump chamber; it has four permanent exhibition halls, a library, newspaper library and a photographic archive with more than 250,000 negatives. One of the spaces that cannot be missed is the former forging workshop, where there are dozens of panels with the names of all the ships that were built in the three Cadiz shipyards.

El Dique Museum

Cruz Herrera Museum

Reopened in its new location in the Saccone gardens in the building formerly occupied by the City Council, this museum has been a clear and firm commitment to the painter José Cruz Herrera, born in La Línea de la Concepción. In its six rooms (exhibiting his First Period, sketches, traditionalist, nudes, Arab and male portraits) there is a broad representation of his work in what is the most comprehensive art library of this artist, who donated this extensive collection of paintings to the city where he was born. His colourful traditionalist paintings often focus on highly expressive portraits of Andalusian and Arab women.

, La Línea de la Concepción O 956 762 576 - 956 696 200 w www.museocruzherrera.com

, Polígono Río San Pedro, s/n - Puerto Real O 956 260 983w www.museoeldique.es

A selection of over 300 works of Spanish painting spanning the fifteenth to nineteenth centuries are shown to the public in this space. They are representative of all the major art movements and important authors such as zurbarán, Velázquez, Hiepes, El Labrador, Valdés Leal, Goya, Maella, Lucas Velázquez, Madrazo, Lucas Villamil and Carlos de Haes, among others.

"Joaquín Rivero" Collection of Spanish Paintings, Bodegas Tradición. Plaza Cordobeses, 3 - Jerez de la Frontera O 956 168 628 w www.bodegastradicion.com

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Located in a rural setting (thirty hectares in the Dehesa de Montenmedio in Vejer de la Frontera), this foundation is a unique space where the dialogue between contemporary art and nature is in perfect harmony. International artists such as James Turrell and Marina Abramovic have cre-ated site-specific projects for the space in the form of installations, sculptures, photography, video, painting and performance. At present the exhibition spaces include 11 former barracks that were part of a military complex abandoned in the 70s.

The Le ather Museum exhibition ‘Exposición Manos y Magia en la Piel’ unveils part of the historical legacy of Cadiz through the activity of leatherwork by artisans from Ubrique. It is located in the former Capuchin convent, in a space which used to be the monks’ rooms. The technological evolution the various machines used in the leather manufac-

turing process have undergone over the centuries can be experienced in the cloister. There is also a small replica of a leather goods shop which visitors can access. The museum also offers visitors the chance to view paintings which are usually changed every month.

The Leather Museum

The NMAC-Montenmedio Foun-dation of Contemporary Art

Ortega Brú Museum

Anyone wishing to view the work of the famous sculptor Luis Ortega Brú, author of the reliefs on one of the doors of the Vatican must visit San Roque. In his hometown, the

top of the Palace of Governors exhibits the largest collection of this author’s sculptures. There are more than 160 unpublished works that show how the artist assimilates and manages plastic styles, from baroque imagery to new abstract and expressionist tendencies. One of the most important works of this museum is La Pieta, sculpted in polychrome wood.

, Plaza de Armas s/n - San Roque O 956 780 106

, Convento de Capuchinos. Avenida de Herrera Oria, s/n - Ubrique O 670 245 229 w www.museodelapiel.es

, Ctra. A-48 ( N-340), Km 42,5 - Vejer de la Frontera O 956 455 134 w www.fundacionnmac.org

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Cultural and Festive Agenda

DECLARED AS OF INTEREST TO INTERNATIONAL TOURISM

DECLARED AS OF INTEREST TO NATIONAL TOURISM

DECLARED AS OF INTEREST TO REGIONAL TOURISM

îî FEBRUARY

CADIZ CARNIVAL CADIz I February-March Cadiz’s most popular festival has its origins in the visits the merchants of Genoa, Venice and France paid to the city, bringing with them masks and costumes to merge with the dances that the ships’ crews performed through the streets of Cadiz to the rhythm of the sounds of Havana, Cadiz and Cuban guarachas. It lasts ten days, and the days prior to the festival consist of free tastings called Pestiñada (pastry), Ostionada (oysters) and Erizada (sea urchins), in the main squares of the historic centre. But the highlight is the Group Competition held in the Falla Theatre, where the best choirs or singing groups called chirigotas and comparsas critique the events of the year in satirical songs. The whole town masquerades and dances on the streets to experience and enjoy the carousels of choirs who sing through the city streets and plazas.

CARNIVALSBORNOS AND CHIPIONA I February-March.

JEREZ FLAMENCO FESTIVALFEREz DE LA FRONTERA | February-March Dancing is the main attraction in this event which enjoys international recognition. Its programme includes performances and concerts, courses, 24-hour flamenco by on-duty flamenco clubs, exhibitions, and a Festival Off that is becoming increasingly popular and which is held in the “La Guarida del Ángel” hall.www.festivaldejerez.es

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The Cultural Sphere. Cultural and Festive Agenda

THE SAN ROQUE INTERNATIONAL SHORT FILM WEEK SAN ROQUE I www.sanroquesemicort.wordpress.com

“CIUDAD DE UBRIQUE” NATIONAL FLAMENCO ART CONTEST UBRIQUE | From February to June

îî MARCH

EASTER JEREz DE LA FRONTERA - ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA

I March-AprilAndalusia is transformed from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday when the Andalusians put on their finery and best outfits to celebrate in the popular fervour. Images of great artistic richness walk the streets accompanied by drums and bugles and a mixture of incense and orange blos-som. In the province of Cadiz, Holy Week is especially important in the municipali-ties of Jerez de la Frontera, Arcos de la Frontera, Alcalá del Valle, Bornos, Espera, La Línea de la Concepción, San Fernando, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, San Roque, and Setenil. All of them have been declared of Interest to Tourism.

FESTIVAL SHORTY WEEK (SHORT FILM FESTIVAL)EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA I www.shortyweek.com

îî ABRIL

SPRING FAIR AND FINE WINE FESTIVALSEL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA

PILGRIMAGE IN HONOUR OF SAN ISIDROLOS BARRIOS

QUASIMODO MONDAY PILGRIMAGEOLVERA

TREBU STREET MUSIC FESTIVALTREBUJENAwww.trebujena.com

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îî MAY HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT OF “ALGODONALES, 2 MAY 1810”ALGODONALESwww.dosdemayo.org

NATIONAL DANCE COMPETITION “BAILE POR ALEGRÍAS”CÁDIz | May – Junewww.laperladecadiz.es

MUSIC FESTIVAL “MANUEL DE FALLA”CÁDIzDedicated to the famous musician from Cadiz, Manuel de Falla.www.facebook.com/festivalmusicamanueldefalla

INTERNATIONAL PUPPET FESTIVAL “CIUDAD DE CADIZ”CÁDIz | May-Junewww.facebook.com/festivaltiterecadiz

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA HORSE FESTIVALJEREz DE LA FRONTERAGonzález Hontoria Park, with more than 200 booths, plays host to a great horse festival with hundreds of horsemen, riders and carriages parading through the Real. At this festival, one can also enjoy two other great attractions from this city: the wine and flamenco that take on special prominence during this celebration.

AFRICAN FILM FESTIVALTARIFA | May – Junewww.fcat.es

CRUCES DE MAYO AND CRUJÍA DE GAMONESUBRIQUE

INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVALVEJER DE LA FRONTERA

îî JUNE ROYAL FAIR OF ALGECIRAS

ALGECIRAS

NATIONAL SINGING COMPETITION "CANTE POR ALEGRÍAS"CÁDIz | June – Julywww.enriqueelmellizo.com

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CADIZ IN DANCE, INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY DANCE FESTIVALCÁDIzwww.cadizendanza.com

CORPUS CHRISTI EL GASTOR zAHARA DE LA SIERRA

TARIFA INTERNATIONAL CIRCUS FESTIVAL (FEINCITA)TARIFAwww.feincita.com

îî JULY PACO DE LUCÍA INTERNATIONAL GUITAR EVENTALGECIRASwww.algeciras.es/pacodelucia

FLAMENCO THURSDAYSCÁDIz | July – August

CADIZ JAZZ FESTIVAL CÁDIzIt is held in the Bastion of Candelaria and the Atlántico Hotel.www.festivaljazzcadiz.com

JAZZ BAY FESTIVALEL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍAHeld in the Osborne Bodegas.www.osborne.es

LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN EVENING AND FESTIVALLA LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN

"PETENERAS" NATIONAL SINGING COMPETITIONPATERNA DE RIVERA

CARMEN AND SALT FAIRSAN FERNANDO

“NOCHES DE BAJO DE GUÍA” FLAMENCO SONG FESTIVALSANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA www.sanlucarturismo.com

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JAZZ FESTIVAL SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDAIn the gardens of the Palace of Orleans.www.sanlucarturismo.com

îî AUGUST MARITIME PILGRIMAGE IN HONOUR OF OUR LADY OF LA PALMA

ALGECIRAS

AL-KALAT INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVALALCALÁ DE LOS GAzULES

MUSCAT FESTIVALCHIPIONA

“POR LA LIBERTAD” FLAMENCO FESTIVALCONIL DE LA FRONTERA

THEATRE OF COMEDIES FESTIVALEL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍAwww.fundacionpedromunozseca.org

HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT OF THE WARS BETWEEN THE MOORS AND CHRISTIANS BENAMAHOMA (GRAzALEMA)www.morosycristianosbenamahoma.es

"SERRANAS" NATIONAL SINGING COMPETITIONPRADO DEL REY www.pradodelrey.es

URTA (SEA BREAM) FESTIVAL ROTA

FLAMENCO FESTIVAL THE ARRANQUE ROTEÑOROTA

HORSE RACING ON THE BEACH SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA This event that has been held for more than 170 years on the Sanlúcar beaches originated in informal competitions between horse owners who transported fish from the former Bajo de Guía port to different markets. Currently, the competition is held over two cycles each lasting three days during the month of August. People from

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Sanlúcar and visitors enjoy the show by watching the thoroughbreds compete along the natural race track, provided by a low tide in the August afternoons.

EXALTACIÓN DEL RIO GUADALQUIVIR FESTIVALSANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA

INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL “A ORILLAS DEL GUADALQUIVIR” (FIMOG)SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDAwww.sanlucarturismo.com

LAS MURALLAS DE LA SEGUR FLAMENCO EVENINGSVEJER DE LA FRONTERA (CÁDIz)

îî SEPTEMBERALCANCES, CADIZ DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVALCÁDIz www.alcances.org

OUR LORD OF THE VIRTUES FAIRS AND FESTIVALSCONIL DE LA FRONTERA

OUR LADY OF REGLA FESTIVITIES CHIPIONA

SANTISIMO CRISTO DE LA ANTIGUA FESTIVITIESESPERA

FIESTA DE LA BULERÍAJEREz DE LA FRONTERA

GRAPE HARVEST FESTIVALJEREz DE LA FRONTERA The pressing of the grape, which represents the birth of the new must, is the start of the festivities which include activities such as venencia competitions, tastings, exhibitions, visits and food and wine pairings in numer-ous local wineries.

HORSEBACK RIDING AND AGRICULTURAL FAIR AND TARIFA FESTIVALSTARIFA

CATTLE FAIR AND SAN MATEO FESTIVALS VILLAMARTIN

RE-ENACTMENT OF THE DEFENCE OF LEÓN ISLAND AND ANNIVERSARY OF LAS CORTES 1810SAN FERNANDO

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îî OCTOBERCADIZ MANGA FESTIVAL (FEMANCA)CÁDIzwww.femanca.es

CADIZ IBEROAMERICAN THEATRE FESTIVAL (FIT)CÁDIzwww.fitdecadiz.org

“DIEGO DEL GASTOR” FLAMENCO FESTIVALEL GASTOR

HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT OF “SANGRE Y AMOR EN LA SIERRA”GRAzALEMAwww.sangreyamorenlasierra.blogspot.com.es

JEREZ MANGA LOUNGEJEREz DE LA FRONTERAwww.salonmangajerez.com

CAMARÓN DE LA ISLA NATIONAL MEMORIAL FLAMENCO SINGING CONTESTSAN FERNANDO | OCTUBRE – DICIEMBREwww.pfccamarondelaisla.com

HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT OF THE BATTLE AGAINST THE FRENCHTARIFA

îî NOVEMBERCADIZ SPANISH MUSIC FESTIVALCÁDIz

VILLA DE EL BOSQUE HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENTEL BOSQUE

îî DECEMBERCHRISTMAS ZAMBOMBASJEREz DE LA FRONTERA Declared an Event of Cultural Interest in Andalusia, the zambombas are a traditional way to celebrate the arrival of Christmas; the event combines carols and flamenco and is when the extended family or even a group of neighbours come together to sing, eat and drink.

THE ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA LIVING NATIVITYARCOS DE LA FRONTERA The streets of the old town undergo an unprecedented transforma-tion into the largest Nativity Scene of all those held in Spain, where the entire town dress up in the fashion of the time. This event can also be seen in other municipalities in the province.

Local Character

05

Local Character. Nombre capítulo y sección

Declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2010, Flamenco has its roots in the Cadiz province, where it rises to category of artistic genre and has inspired writers, poets and musicians. A land forged by cantes such as the alegrías, bulerías or tangos, and home to artists such as Rocío Jurado, Manolo, Antonio Chacón, José Mercé and Lola Flores, here flamenco is performed in its purest form, from Bahía to Campo de Gibraltar.

Santa María is the beating heart of flamenco in the capital. It is where the legendary figure of Enrique el Mellizo was conceived, around whom groups such as the Perla de Cadiz revolve, and it is where, through the Aula de Flamencología, the Baile por Alegrías national competition takes place. The Municipal Centre of Flamenco Art is located in its Plaza de la Merced, which houses a varied pro-gramme of flamingo themed activities including concerts, classes and exhibitions, etc.

Singing found its way to Jerez de la Frontera more than two centuries ago through the Gypsy community looking for work in the countryside and has not left since. The town has a specific neighbourhood that has one of the strongest flamenco flavours in the world: Santiago,

home to the Andalusian Flamenco Documentation Centre, lies next to the suburb of San Miguel where bulería originated, the Jerez song of note.

And no Flamenco tour of the prov-ince of Cadiz is complete without a visit to Algeciras, birthplace of the great guitarist Paco de Lucía, where only a few kilometres away, in San Fernando, the other half of his legend can be found: José Monge Cruz, Camarón de la Isla, who was posthumously given the fourth ́ Llave de Oro del Cante´, the Golden Key of Flamenco. Both art-ists have their own cultural routes (See pages 76-77).

FlamencoFlamenco05.1

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The numerous festivals organised in the prov-ince also offer Cante jondo fans around the world the opportunity to enjoy wonderful shows. Among the most famous events are the Bulería Festival and the International Flamenco Festival (both in Jerez), Evenings in Bajo de Guía in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the Arranque Roteño, the national Peteneras Singing competition in Paterna de la Rivera, the national Flamenco competition in San Fernando, the national Serranas Singing competition in Prado del Rey and Noche Flamenca de la Segur in Vejer de la Frontera, declared of National Tourist Interest.

MUNICIPAL FLAMENCO ART CENTRE LA MERCED, Plza. de la Merced, s/n - CádizO 956 902 134 - 600 160 870

ANDALUz FLAMENCO DOCUMENTATION CENTRE, Plaza de San Juan, 1. Palacio de Pemartín – Jerez de la FronteraO 956 902 134 - 600 160 870w www.centroandaluzdeflamenco.es

OF INTEREST

La Niña Pastori was barely eight years old when she was discovered by the great Camarón de la Isla to develop her admirable talent for flamenco music.

■❚❙ THE "FLAMENCO TERRITORIES"The province of Cadiz is part of two routes known as the “Territorios Flamencos” made by the Andalusian Regional Government: The Compás del Tres por Cuatro Route, “The Basics”, which passes through Jerez and highlights the singing and singers who have created palos as original as soleá or bulería. And the Bajañí Route which passes through Algeciras to Sanlúcar de Barrameda through Jerez and whose purpose is to show the origins of the flamenco guitar.www.andalucia.org/es/rutas/tipos/rutas-de-flamenco


Local Character. Flamenco

5.1.1. Camarón de la Isla RouteThis singer, who became a legend even before his death, revolutionised the world of flamenco with his personal style.

José Monge Cruz, nicknamed “Camarón de la Isla” because of his unique fair and thin features, was born in 1950 in San Fernando. His father died when he was young and at only seven this full-blooded gypsy was already singing in taverns and bars to earn money. At twelve he won first prize in the Festival de Montilla (Córdoba) Flamenco contest and from there his ascent in the world of music was unstoppable. In 1968 he released his first album with Paco de Lucía and soon after met the guitarist Tomatito, his other half for 18 years, until his death in 1992. He recorded 19 albums, Soy Gitano (1989) was the best-selling album in the history of flamenco.

The cultural route “La Ruta de Camarón” passes through his hometown and pays tribute to this genius. The journey starts at his birthplace, and continues along what is known as “Las Claves de Camarón”; the island of San Fernando, Camarón’s neighbourhood full of narrow streets and the house he grew up in, among other points of interest. Not far is the flamenco club “Camarón de la Isla”, with hundreds of photos and memories of the artist and which every year, September to December, hosts the singing competition “Concurso de Cante Memorial Camarón de la Isla”.

We turn now to the Camarón monument, a few metres from the famous Venta de Vargas restaurant. From there we move onto his father’s metal workshop, and then to the Iglesia Mayor, where the

singer asked his Nazareno per-mission to marry La Chispa; we finish the route in his mausoleum in the municipal cemetery. “I want to be buried in San Fernando,” he had declared, and his wish was fulfilled.

îî Complete information about the route: www.turismosanfernando.es/rutas/la-isla-de-camaron

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îî Complete information about the route: www.algeciras.es/pacodelucia

5.1.2. Paco de Lucía RouteDoctor Honoris Causa by the University of Cadiz and the Berkley College of Music, the jury of the Prince of Asturias Awards recognised his "interpretive honesty" and his ability to transcend "boundaries and styles" that made him "a musician of universal dimension".

Paco de Lucía was born in 1947 in Algeciras. Growing up in an intensely flamenco environment, he recorded his first album with his brother Pepe, and later worked on other albums, recorded live and improvised, with Fosforito, El Lebrijano and Camarón de la Isla. He managed to modernise the concept of classic flamenco without losing touch of its roots, fusing it with jazz, blues, Indian music, Cuban rhythms and bossa nova. He recorded a total of 37 albums and numerous collaborations with international artists such as Carlos Santana, Al Di Meola and John McLaughlin. He died in Cancun in 2014.

This route retraces his artistic and vital rhythm and explores the Algeciras enclaves that inspired his works. It starts on calle San Francisco, and passes through calle Munición, in whose bars his father, the guitarist Antonio Sánchez Pecino “Antonio de Algeciras”, performed. Heading towards the south we reach plaza Alta, where the Shrine of Our Lady of Europe looks over us. Following the same direction, we reach plaza Baja also known as plaza de Abastos, where his father had a fabrics and hardware stall. The next stop is at the luxury hotel Reina Cristina, opposite which used to lie Chorruelo beach. On the roundabout which takes us to the beach of Getares and Tarifa, stands the monument that the city erected as homage to the artist.

Moving towards Punta Carnero, the Algeciras Lighthouse, is Casa Bernardo, also by the sea, a beach bar in Rinconcillo beach, where the maestro had a house. The last stop on our tour is the courtyard of San José, in the for-mer Algeciras cemetery, where the remains of the great guitarist lie.

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Cadiz province is famous for its wines cellared in barrels from ancestral wineries that have breathed art, history, legends and film.

The province of Cadiz is internationally renowned for the variety and quality of its wines, some have Denomination of Origin (Jerez - Xérès – Sherry and Manzanilla – Sanlúcar de Barrameda). To the wine indus-try’s undisputed gastronomic value, we must add a growing interest for wine tourism that can be seen in ‘the cathedrals of wine’ – the modern wineries – one of the region’s greatest pillars.

Since the romantic travellers from the early eighteenth century decided that the Cadiz wineries were essential to their Andalusian itineraries, they have adapted to the times, seeking a balance between functionality and beauty and becoming authentic wine museums. The wineries of Tío Pepe de González Byass (Jerez de la Frontera) have over 100,000 wineskins (botas), the oldest dating back over 350 years and its facilities have seen visitors such as the writer Leopoldo Alas “Clarín”, Harold Lloyd, Jean Cocteau, Winston Churchill, Ayrton Senna, Roger Moore and Steven Spielberg.

The centenarian Jerez winery, Pedro Domecq is one of the most visited, with botas dedicated to nobles, princes and kings such as Alfonso III and Juan Carlos I and to personalities of science and humanities (Gregorio Marañón, Jacinto Benavente, José María Pemán, Octavio Paz), artists (Antonio Machín, Andrés Segovia, Plácido Domingo), athletes such as Severiano Ballesteros, diplomats and the list continues.

Art and WineArt and Wine05.2

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Art and wine have become close allies in recent times, and thematic museums have begun to emerge in many of the vineyards and wineries around the region. A good example is the Barbadillo Museum of Manzanilla and the Interpretation Centre of Wine in Delgado zuleta Wineries, both in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, not to mention the magnificent art collection “Joaquín Rivero” in the Tradició Wineries (Jerez de la Frontera) and the Picasso Vollard Suite that can be admired in Estevez Wineries, also in Jerez.

■❚❙ THE WINE CATHEDRALSThe winery architecture of Moorish tradition, developed over the Modern Age, reached its peak in the nineteenth century with "cathedral type" architecture, formed by longitudinal aisles with graceful gabled roofings and clean and tidy façades that are today an inseparable element of Jerez's urban landscape.

Alexander Fleming, the Nobel Prize laureate in Physiology and Medicine and discoverer of penicillin, visited Jerez on 10th June 1948 and during his visit to the Domecq wineries signed a bota, exclaiming when he tasted the wines: "My penicillin cures the sick, but your sherry raises the dead".


Local Character. Art and Wine

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THE MUSCAT MUSEUM, Avda. de Regla, 8 y 10 - ChipionaO 956 371 804w www.museodelmoscatel.com Through seven modules that each have an educational and entertaining theme, all the processes that have been used in making wine and in turn Muscat throughout history are explored, from the Phoenicians, through to the founding of the city by the Romans, the Moorish times, the reconquest, the industrial revolution until today.

"JOAQUIN RIVERO" COLLECTION OF SPANISH PAINTINGS, Bodegas Tradición. Plaza Cordobeses, 3 –Jerez de la FronteraO 34 956 168 628w www.bodegastradicion.comThe winery exhibits a selection of more than 300 Spanish paintings ranging from the fifteenth to the nineteenth centuries, a collection that is open to the public.

THE GRUPO ESTÉVEz ART GALLERY, Ctra. N-IV, Km 640 - Grupo Estévez - Jerez de la FronteraO 956 321 004 w www.grupoestevez.es Included in the paintings of this contemporary art gallery is the magnificent collection of the Picasso Vollard Suite composed of 100 engravings, and paintings by artists such as Botero, Miró, Dalí, Sicilia, Palazuelo, Salustiano or Tàpies. Amongst the sculptural works we can find pieces by Jorge Oteiza and Eduardo Chillida. The gallery's collections are rounded off by clocks, carpets, canes and cabinets.

MUSEUM OF WINE LABELS , Carretera Circunvalación, s/n - Complejo Bellavista - Bodegas Grupo GarveyO 956 319 650 - Jerez de la Fronteraw www.grupogarvey.comThe museum of wine labels has more than 15,000 labels - of which only 8,000 are exhibited - printed between 1854-1954 from Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, some of them cannot be found outside the museum today. One can also admire a collection of hand-painted bottles from the nineteenth century.

OF INTEREST


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VIÑA AL VINO (FROM THE VINE TO WINE) MUSEUM , Viña Santa PetronilaCarretera del Calvario, km 3,5 – Jerez de la FronteraO 669 750 888w www.santapetronila.com The museum occupies the former winery and house-vineyard "people's house". It shows how the vineyard was worked, the grape harvesting and pressing and how it transformed Jerez in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, as well as the similarities of these processes with those we use today.

MUSEUM OF JEREz , Carretera Nacional IV, km 641,74 - Jerez de la FronteraO 956 353 400 - 677 452 256w www.williams-humbert.comThe "Gran Duque de Alba" hall in the Williams & Humbert Wineries, considered the largest in Europe, plays host to the Museum of Jerez, where the tools for the wine-making process are exhibited: the pressing of the grapes, laboratory instruments, presses, pumps, filling machines, cappers, etc., unique original parts in an excellent state of preservation which have been collected since the eighteenth century.

WINE INTERPRETATION CENTRE , Avda. Rocío Jurado, s/n – Sanlúcar de BarramedaO 956 360 133w www.delgadozuleta.comLocated in the Tío Paco winery, part of the Delgado zuleta wine producers. The visit is an authentic immersion through visual panels and fun activities into the magical world of fortified wines, their rich history, their unique and mysterious production method, particular customs and traditions and even their unique lexicon.

MUSEUM BARBADILLO DE LA MANzANILLA, Calle Sevilla, 1-25 - Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz)O 956 385 500 / 956 385 521w www.barbadillo.com Covers all aspects related to Jerez wine, from the vineyard to its marketing. It also shows the evolution through the history of chamomile, of the most relevant aspects of the Barbadillo family and their great cultural heritage.


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These two superb animals are an inseparable part of the history of the province, participating in the city's celebrations and even starring in spectacular ballets.

Mythology tells the story that when the god Phoebus wanted to rest, he would untack the fire horses of his coach on the shores of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. And it is true the equestrian tradition in the Cadiz province dates back more than 3,000 years, to the time of Tartessians. But it would be the construction of the Carthusian mon-astery in Jerez de la Frontera during the fifteenth century that marked a milestone in the history of the Andalusian horse. The monks were engaged in breeding horses and magnificent stallions and from them came the famous Carthusian race. The Cartuja – Hierro del Bocado stud farm, which is the largest reserve of Carthusian horses in the world, can be visited on Saturdays, when there is also a horse show to be enjoyed.

The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art is also in Jerez de la Frontera, known around the world for its exhibition “Cómo Bailan los Caballos Andaluces”, an authentic equestrian ballet with distinctly Spanish music and eighteenth-century styled costumes, the choreography mounted to reprises drawn from classical and country dressage and other traditional horsemanship pieces. On the premises you can also visit the Museums of Horse Carriages and Equestrian Art.

Many of the festivals and shows held in the province of Cadiz would not be complete without the participation of the horse; one of the most important events, highlighting the significance of the animal for the region, is the Horse Fair of Jerez de la Frontera and the Horse Races in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, both declared Events of

The Horse and the BullThe Horse and the Bull05.3

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Local Character. The Horse and the Bull

The Horse and the BullThe Horse and the BullInternational Tourist Interest. Bullfights, a large part of these festi-vals, are held in plazas that are a fine example of regional architec-ture, such as those in Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María or the unique arena in Villaluenga del Rosario (eighteenth century).

Since time immemorial bullfighting has been a source of inspiration for art and culture, and for this reason the province has many muse-ums on this theme. The most notable bullfighting museums that can be found in Jerez de la Frontera are, the José Cabrera Taurino Museum of La Línea de la Concepción, the José Luis Galloso Taurino Museum of El Puerto de Santa María and the Francisco Montes Paquiro Municipal Taurino Musuem in Chiclana.

The Osborne Foundation recently opened the Toro Gallery, a new exhibition space, housed in a century-old winery in El Puerto de Santa María, showing the history of the Osborne bull and its links with the world of art through the works of great photographers, artists, athletes and personalities from all walks of social life.

OF INTERESTTHE CARTUJA – HIERRO DEL BOCADO STUD FARM, Ctra. Medina – El Portal, 6,5- Jerez de la FronteraO 956 162 809 w www.yeguadacartuja.com

BULL GALLERY, Bodega de Mora (Bodegas Osborne)- Calle de los Moros, 7 El Puerto Santa María O 956 869 100w www.osborne.es

■❚❙ BULL ROUTEWithout leaving the Cadiz province, the birthplace of bullfighters such as Rafael de Paula, Paquirri or Juan José Padilla, we can tour the Bull Route, which starts from Jerez de la Frontera, runs throughout the countryside and ends in Campo de Gibraltar. The route teaches us about the life of this animal in its natural environment, and takes us on visits to some of the prestigious ranches in the area.

ROYAL ANDALUSIAN SCHOOL OF EQUESTRIAN ART FOUNDATION, Avenida Duque de Abrantes, s/n - Jerez de la FronteraO 956 319 635 w www.realescuela.org

TORRESTRELLA RANCH, Medina Sidonia O 956 30 43 12w www.acampoabierto.comCEBADA GAGO RANCH, Medina Sidonia O 956 41 60 16w www.cebadagago.es

FERMÍN BOHORQUEz RANCH, Jerez de la Frontera O 956 18 45 79w www.ferminbohorquez.com


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Cadiz traditional and modern crafts coexist harmoniously, it is the land of ceramists, potters and experts in leather.

Cadiz artisans have preserved and ensured the purity of ancient trades associated with areas such as wine-making (cooperage) and horses (saddlery) in the area of Jerez and in towns scattered in the mountains. Wicker and pottery goods are concentrated in the region of La Janda, in the towns of Vejer de la Frontera and Medina Sidonia; Conil de la Frontera is especially well-known for its ceramics. And in the Campo de Gibraltar region, the Cork Crafts of Jimena and Castellar de la Frontera stand out as unique.

In regard to music, the bagpipes of El Gastor and the prestigious guitars of Algodonales must be seen, while not missing the opportu-nity to acquire a personalised flamenco cajón. The artisanal furniture from Benamahoma, El Bosque and Prado del Rey must also been mentioned, as well as the English-style cabinetry from Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Textile crafts have two major centres in the province, the towns of Arcos de la Frontera, with its carpets made from Castilian wool and of geometric designs and Grazalema, popular for its blankets, soft and fluffy, genuine striped and knotted fringes, still made with ancient looms in this mountain village.

And you cannot talk about the crafts of Cadiz without mentioning Ubrique, the biggest concentration of leathercraft workshops in Europe. The famous leather ateliers from Ubrique have a proud range of items and articles prepared in accordance with quality techniques and whose ‘Piel de Ubrique’ guarantee has opened the doors to many international markets and prestigious companies. To celebrate this industry there is a Leather Museum nestled in the Convent of the Capuchins.

Craftsmanship05.4Craftsmanship05.4

Notable 'Gaditanos'05.4

Notable 'Gaditanos'05.5

î Rafael Alberti. El Puerto de Santa María. www.rafaelalberti.esî José Manuel Caballero Bonald. Jerez de la Frontera. Cervantes Award. Fundación Caballero Bonald. www.fcbonald.comî Antonio Hernandez Ramírez. Arcos de la Frontera. National Poetry Prize.î Fernando Quiñones. Chiclana de la Frontera. Fundación Fernando Quiñones. www.fundacionfq.esî José María Pemán. Cádiz.î Carlos Edmundo de Ory. Cádiz. www.fundacionory.comî Elvira Lindo. Cádiz Creator of the Manolito Gafotas Characterî Antonio y Carlos Murciano. Arcos de la Fronteraî Felipe Benitez Reyes. Rota.î Eduardo Mendicutti. Sanlúcar de Barramedaî Ana Rosseti. San Fernando

Since its beginnings, the Cadiz province has seen countless illuminated people grow within its bosom, standing out in many different and diverse cultural areas both nationally and internationally. As it is impossible to list them all, we hope that this brief review of some of the most well-known will suffice.

Literature:

Painting:î Chema Cobos. Tarifaî Guillermo Perez Villalta. Tarifaî Felipe Abárzuza. Cádiz Painter of the Gran Teatro Falla ceilingî Hernán Cortés Moreno. Cádiz www.hernancortesmoreno.comî Costus, pseudonym of the artists Enrique Naya (Cadiz) and Juan Carrero (Palma de Mallorca). Part of his work can be seen in ECC – Espacio de Creación Cultural (Cadiz) – in a permanent exhibition.î Manuel Prieto Benítez. El Puerto de Santa María. Designer of the Osborne Bull.

Rafael Alberti.

J.M. Caballero Bonald.

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Gran Teatro Falla.

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Local Character. Notable 'Gaditanos'

î Luis Ortega Brú. San Roque. Ortega Brú Museum (San Roque)î Juan Luis Vasallo Parodi. Cádiz. Sculptor of the "Minerva" sculpture in the Circulo de Bellas Artes in Madrid. Some of his pieces can be seen at the Reina Sofia Cultural Centre.

Sculpture:

Theatre / Cinema:

Music:

î Pedro Muñoz Seca. El Puerto de Santa María. Theatre playwright. Pedro Muñoz Seca Museumî Juan Luis Galiardo. San Roque. Film and theatre actor.

CLASSICAL:î Manuel de Falla. Cádizwww.manueldefalla.com

GUITAR:î Paco de Lucía. Algeciraswww.pacodelucia.orgî Gerardo Núñez. Jerezî Paco Cepero. Jerezî Manolo Sanlúcar. Sanlúcar de Barrameda

PIANO:î Chano Dominguez. Cádiz

DANCE:î Sara Baras . San Fernando

SINGERS:î Javier Ruibal. El Puerto de Santa Maríaî Pablo Carbonell. Cádizî Rocio Jurado. Chipiona

FLAMENCO SINGERS:î José Monge (Camarón) San Fernando. î Niña Pastori. San Fernandoî Antonio Chacón, Lola Flores, José Mercé, Paquera de Jerez. Jerez de la Fronteraî Enrique El Mellizo, La Perla de Cádiz, Chano Lobato, Juan Villar, Beni de Cádiz. Cádiz

"Minerva". Juan Luis Vasallo Parodi.

Pedro Muñoz Seca.

Manuel de Falla.

Paco de Lucía

Sara Baras.

Camarón de la Isla.

î Francisco Pacheco. Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Teacher and father-in-law of Velázquez (sixteenth to seventeenth century).î José Cruz Herrera, from Linea de la Concepcion, where the Cruz Herrera Museum is located.

CÁDIZ. PATRONATO PROVINCIAL DE TURISMO Plaza de Madrid. Estadio Ramón de Carranza.Fondo Sur. Planta 4ª, s/n / +34 956 807 061www.cadizturismo.com - [email protected]

ALGECIRAS. Calle Paseo Río de la Miel, s/n. +34 956 571 254 [email protected]

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA. Arcos de la FronteraCalle Cuesta de Belén, 5. +34 956 702 264 [email protected]

BARBATE. Avenida Río Barbate, 23. /+34 956 063 613 www.barbate.es - [email protected]

BENALUP - CASAS VIEJAS. Calle Paterna, 4 /+34 956 417 733 [email protected]

BENAMAHOMA. (Grazalema)Calle Cuesta de la Venta, s/[email protected]

BORNOSPlaza Alcalde José González, 1 - Palacio de losRibera /+34 956 728 264www.bornos.es - turismodebornos@ bornos.es

CÁDIZ. CENTRO DE RECEPCIÓN DE TURISTAS DEL AYUNTAMIENTO (CANALEJAS)Paseo de Canalejas, s/n / +34 956 241 001 www.cadiz.es - [email protected]

CÁDIZ. OFICINA DE INFORMACIÓN TURÍSTICA DEL AYUNTAMIENTO (AVENIDA)Avenida José León de Carranza, s/n +34 956 285 601www.cadiz.es- [email protected]

CÁDIZ. OFICINA DE TURISMO DE LA JUNTA DE ANDALUCÍAAvenida Ramón de Carranza, s/n +34 956 203 191 www.andalucia.org - [email protected]

CHICLANA DE LA FRONTERA. Calle La Plaza, 3 - nº 3 +34 956 535 969 www.turismochiclana.es - [email protected]

CHICLANA DE LA FRONTERA. (URBANIZACIÓN NOVO SANCTI PETRI)Urbanización Novo Sancti Petri, s/n - Frente alpinar público (Cerrada en invierno) +34 956 497 234www.turismochiclana.es - [email protected]

CHIPIONA. Calle Castillo, 5 - Castillo de Chipiona +34 956 929 065www.turismochipiona.es - [email protected]

CONIL DE LA FRONTERA. PATRONATO MUNICIPAL DE TURISMOCalle Carretera, 1 +34 956 440 501 / 956 440 222www.turismo.conil.org - [email protected]

EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA.Plaza Alfonso X El Sabio, 9 - Palacio de Aranibar(junto al Castillo de San Marcos) +34 956 483 714 / 956 483 715www.turismoelpuerto.com - [email protected]

ESPERA. Calle Los toros, s/n +34 956 720 432 www.webespera.es - [email protected]

GRAZALEMA. Dirección: Plaza Asomaderos, 3 +34 956 132 [email protected]

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA. Plaza del Arenal, s/n - Edificio Los Arcos+34 956 338 874 / 956 341 711 www.turismojerez.com - [email protected]

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA. OFICINA DE INFORMACIÓN TURÍSTICA DEL AEROPUERTOCarretera N-IV , 628,5 +34 956 186 808www.cadizturismo.com - [email protected]

JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA. OFICINA JEREVISIÓN. Calle Armas, 17 - Frente al torreón del Alcázar +34 956 336 789 www.jerevision.es - [email protected]

LA LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN. OFICINA DE TURISMO DE LA JUNTA DE ANDALUCÍAAvenida del Ejército, s/n - esquina con Avda. 20 de Abril +34 956 784 135www.andalucia.org - [email protected]

LA LÍNEA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN. Avenida Príncipe de Asturias, s/n www.turismocg.com - [email protected]

LOS BARRIOS. Paseo de la Constitución, 15 +34 956 582 504turismo.ayto-losbarrios.es - [email protected]

MEDINA SIDONIA. Calle San Juan, s/n +34 956 412 404 www.medinasidonia.com - [email protected]

06 Tourist offices

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Practical information.

Practical information

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OLVERA. Plaza de la Iglesia, s/n - Edificio La Cilla +34 956 120 816 www.turismolvera.es - [email protected]

PRADO DEL REY. Calle Fuente, s/n +34 956 724 436 www.pradodelrey.es - [email protected]

PUERTO REAL. Plaza Poeta Rafael Alberti, s/n +34 856 213 362 turismo.puertoreal.es/turismopr/ - [email protected]

ROTA. FUNDACIÓN MUNICIPAL DE TURISMOY COMERCIO.Calle Cuna, 2 - Castillo de Luna +34 956 841 352 / +34 956 846 345www.turismorota.com - [email protected]

SAN FERNANDO. Calle Real, 26 +34 956 944 226 / 956 944 227www.turismosanfernando.org - [email protected]

SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA. PATRONATO MUNICIPAL DE TURISMOCalle Calzada Duquesa Isabel, s/n +34 956 366 110 [email protected]

SAN ROQUE. Calle Rubín de Celis, s/n - Palacio de los Gobernadores +34 956 694 005 www.sanroque.es/turismo - [email protected]

SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS. Calle Villa, 2 +34 956 134 [email protected]

TARIFA. Paseo de la Alameda , s/n +34 956 680 993 / +34 956 680 676 www.aytotarifa.com/Turismo - [email protected]

UBRIQUE. Calle Moreno de Mora, 19 A +34 956 461 290 - Extensión 266 / +34 956 922 980www.ayuntamientoubrique.es - [email protected]

VEJER DE LA FRONTERA. Avenida de los Remedios, 2 +34 956 451 736www.turismovejer.es - [email protected]

VILLAMARTÍN. Plaza Ayuntamiento, 10 +34 956 733 555 www.villamartin.es - [email protected]

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES. (Barbate)Calle Doctores Sánchez Rodríguez, s/n +34 956 063 600 - Ext. 9140www.elazaharadelosatunes.es - [email protected]

PhotographsPatronato Provincial de TurismoDiputación de Cádiz

Junta de Andalucía. Consejería de Turismo y Deporte. Empresa Pública para la Gestión del Turismo y del Deporte de Andalucía, S.A.

Excluding contributions by the following institutions and professionals:

ANTONIO M. ROMERO DORADO. Pg.5 - Figurine of the God Melkart.ANTONIO MONTUNO. Pg. 86 - Paco de Lucía.ASOCIACIÓN DE LA CARTA DE JUAN DE LA COSA. Pg. 21.AYUNTAMIENTO DE ALCALÁ DEL VALLE. JUAN JESÚS PÉREZ NARANJO. Pg. 26 - Dolmens of Tomillo.AYUNTAMIENTO DE CÁDIZ. Pg. 28 - Gadir Archaeological Site.AYUNTAMIENTO DE GRAZALEMA-BENAMAHOMA. LAURA JARILLO RODRÍGUEZ. Pg. 70 - Historical Re-Enactment of the wars between the Moors and Christians.AYUNTAMIENTO DE JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA. Pg. 81 - From the Vine to Wine Museum, pg. 85 - Caballero Bonald.AYUNTAMIENTO DE TREBUJENA. Pg. 67 - Trebufestival.AYUNTAMIENTO DE UBRIQUE. Pg. 12 - Ocuri Mausoleum, pg. 32 - Ocuri Archaeological Site.BENJAMÍN NÚÑEZ GONZÁLEZ. Pg. 86 - AteneaBODEGAS OSBORNE. Pg. 83 - Torogallery.BODEGAS TRADICIÓN. Pg. 80 - Joaquín Rivero. CÁDIZ FILM OFFICE. Pg. 47 - Pierce Brosnan, pg. 48 - Jean Reno, pg. 48 - Knight & Day.CENTRO DE INTERPRETACIÓN "CÁDIZ PREHISTÓRICO". Pg. 6 - Cueva del Moro, pg.7 - Dolmens. Facinas, pg.24 - Rock shelter of Laja Alta, pg.26 - Centre for Interpretation of "Prehistoric Cadiz". CLUB DE MÚSICA Y JAZZ SAN JUAN EVANGELISTA. Pg. 86 - Camarón de la Isla.DANIEL MARTÍN CLARES. Pg. 37 - Setenil de las Bodegas.DAVID IBÁÑEZ MONTAÑEZ. Pg. 50, pg. 85 - Gran Teatro Falla.DELEGACIÓN DE CONSEJERÍA DE CULTURA DE LA JUNTA DE ANDALUCÍA. Pg. 27 - Sarcophagi.DIEGO BEJARANO. Pg. 11 - Baelo Claudia, pg. 15 - Jerez Fortress.ERA CULTURA S.L. Pg.7 - Archaeology for kids. GRUPO GARVEY. Pg.80 - Museum of wine labels.INSTITUTO ANDALUZ DEL PATRIMONIO HISTÓRICO. BLANCO DE LA RUBIA, M.A. Pg. 24.INSTITUTO DE FOMENTO, EMPLEO Y FORMACIÓN DEL AYUNTAMIENTO DE CÁDIZ. Pg. 28 - The Face of Mattan.JOSÉ MONTERO. Pg. 17 - View of the Cathedral of Cadiz. JUAN DE DIOS CARRERA. Pg. 39 - Arcos de la Frontera.JUNTA DE ANDALUCÍA. MARIPI RODRÍGUEZ GARRIDO. Pg. 69 - Bahía Jazz Festival.LOURDES DE VICENTE. Pg. 69 - Cádiz en Danza.MANU LÓPEZ IGLESIAS. Pg. 79.MUSEO ARQUEOLÓGICO DE JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA. Pg. 63 - Greek Corinthian Helmet.MUSEO DE CÁDIZ. Pg. 4 - Mosaic.SERGIO GUERRERO. Pg. 75 - Flamenco.

PATRONATOPROVINCIALDE TURISMO

Diputaciónde Cádiz

www.cadizturismo.com www.facebook.com/CadizTurismo

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EditedPatronato Provincial de TurismoDiputación de CádizPlaza de Madrid s/nEstadio Ramón de Carranza. Fondo Sur, 4ª Planta11011 Cádiz. EspañaTel. 956 80 70 [email protected]

www.facebook.com/CadizTurismo

www.twitter.com/CadizTurismo

TextsEstefanía Fernández Cano

Editing, design and layoutTrama Gestión S.L.www.tramagestion.es

TranslationMETAFRASI Traducció i Comunicació S.L.

PrintTórculo Andalucía

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