cultural appropriation of 'first nation' symbolism in contemporary fashion

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Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation‘ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion How exoc! How charming! May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

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Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation‘ Symbolismin Contemporary Fashion

How exotic! How charming!

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Nothing is NewRemix and Copy-Paste Culture

1

Naivity and InsultSocial Media, Urban Outfitters and an Ethiopian/Eritrean Dress

2 The Tale of InspirationHaute Couture and Hipsters enchanted by the Other and Exoticism

3

Against the Stream of UnconsciousnessCreatives promoting dialogue and cultural growth through their work

4

Ethical DesignRole of creatives in Postmodernist Culture

5

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Remix and Copy-Paste Culture

Nothing is New

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

“Postmodernity is said to be a culture offragmentary sensations, eclectic nostalgia,disposable simulacra, and promiscuoussuperficiality, in which the traditionally valued qualities of depth, coherence, meaning,originality, and authenticity are evacuated or dissolved amid the random swirlof empty signals.” Jean Baudrillard

Nothing is New: Remix and Copy-Paste Culture

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Nothing is New: Remix and Copy-Paste Culture

Vintage Navajo Poncho H&M Navajo Style Poncho

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Nothing is New: Remix and Copy-Paste Culture

Urban Outfitters Panties Primark BackpackUrban Outfitters Flask Urban Outfitters Stockings

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Haute Couture and Hipsters enchanted by the Other and Exoticism

The Tale of Inspiration

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

The Tale of Inspiration: Haute Couture and Hipsters enchanted by the Other and Exoticism

Galliano for Dior 1998

Galliano for Dior, Fall-Winter Collection 1998, ‘A Voyage on the Diorient Express, or the Story of the Princess Pocahontas’

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

The Tale of Inspiration: Haute Couture and Hipsters enchanted by the Other and Exoticism

‘It is a dialogue between past and present. The starting point is usually factual, but we allow our imagina-tions to run riot. The story happens differently each time. Certain things begin to go around in my head and then we start to embroider on them.’ John Galliano

Galliano commenting on the staging of his ‘Diorient Express’

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

The Tale of Inspiration: Haute Couture and Hipsters enchanted by the Other and Exoticism

Fashion Editorial, Vogue 1998 Fashion Editorial, Vogue 1998 Michelle Williams, for Another Magazine Spring/Summer 2013

Adaption of Symbolism for Editorial Design

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

The Tale of Inspiration: Haute Couture and Hipsters enchanted by the Other and Exoticism

Inspired by High-End Fashion and Magazine Culture Hipsters ‘Go Native’

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Social Media, Urban Outfitters and an Ethiopian/Eritrean Dress

Naivity and Insult

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Naivity and Insult: Current Social Media, Urban Outfitters and an Ethiopian/Eritrean Dress

Eastern African Traditional ‘Hager Lebs’ dress ... ... sold as ‘Vintage ‘90 Linen Dress’ by Urban Outfitters

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Naivity and Insult: Social Media, Urban Outfitters and an Ethiopian/Eritrean Dress

Activist Lolla Mohammed Nur on youtube.com

Lolla Mohammed Nur’s petition on change.org, started in March 2013

Twitter response on Lolla’s appearance on Al Jazeera English’s talk show ‘The Stream’

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Creatives promoting dialogue and cultural growth through their work

Against the Stream ofUnconsciousness

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Against the Stream of Unconsciousness:Creatives promoting dialogue and cultural growth through their work

Proanza Schouler, Fall Collection 2011

Designer Fashion

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Native(x) Company in collaborationwith ‘First Nation’ Artists

Collaboration with ‘First Nation’ Artists

Against the Stream of Unconsciousness:Creatives promoting dialogue and cultural growth through their work

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

The Barrymore

Cannupa Hanska Luger: Stereotypes (2012)

The Curtis The Luger The Stefani

Against the Stream of Unconsciousness:Creatives promoting dialogue and cultural growth through their work

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Role of Creatives in Postmodernist Culture

Ethical Design

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Yet just as human beings make their own history,they also make their cultures and ethnic identities.No one can deny the persisting continuities oflong traditions, sustained habitations, national languages,and cultural geographies, but there seems no reasonexcept fear and prejudice to keep insisting ontheir separation and distinctiveness, as if that wasall human life was about. Edward W. Said

Ethical Design: Role of Creatives in Postmodernist Culture

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

Thank you.

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

artists

Cannupa Hanska LugerFrank Buffalo HydeGuillermo Gómez-PeñaCoco FuscoJodi WebsterKimiko YoshidaHannabah Blue

designers

John Galliano - DiorMac Bishop - native(x)

activists

Lolla Mohammed Nur

exoticism

Exoticism in the Decorative Artshttp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/exot/hd_exot.htmThis is not a cruisehttp://www.thesmartset.com/article/arti-cle08060708.aspx

post-colonialism

Native American Artists take back the Headdresshttp://minnesota.publicradio.org/collec-tions/special/columns/state-of-the-arts/ar-chive/2013/03/native-american-artists-take-back-the-headdress.shtmlAmerican and Australian ‘First Nation’ artists talking about their workhttp://frankbuffalohyde.com/artwork/2063428_Frank_Buffalo_Hyde_and_Reko_Rennie.html

appropriation

The Stream When Traditions become Trendshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ksc6KnDMtNUCultural Appropriation the Hipster Sessionhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oNrZt8fWW8 Postmodern Identity Politicshttp://hemisphericinstitute.org/cuaderno/indig-enous_encuentros/pages/interpret_02.htmlNative Americans take back the Headdresshttp://minnesota.publicradio.org/collec-tions/special/columns/state-of-the-arts/ar-chive/2013/03/native-american-artists-take-back-the-headdress.shtml

websites

http://www.nativex.net/http://www.jezebel.com/http://culturalappropriationon.tumblr.com/

videos

Coco Fusco and Guillermo Gómez-Peñahttp://bombsite.com/issues/42/articles/1599No Doubt - Looking Hothttp://www.dailymotion.com/video/xv0y6d_looking-hot-no-doubt-official-video_music#.UYjgNqLZaSpAddams Family 2 - Thanksgiving Scenehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VbYZDohsHkSteve Aoki - Cudi the Kidhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMq6MLo_eSMKe$ha - BlaBlaBlahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMDVab94aeMOutcast - Hey Ya!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3tWeE6A3MwHannabah Blue - It’s Trendy to be Indianhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cST5JSrY1iA

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion

bibliography

Primitive Art (1940), Adam, Pelican Books

Intercultural Communication (2003), Samovar/Porter, Thomson Wadsworth

Intercultural Communication and Ideology (2011), Holliday, Adrian, SAGE Publications Ltd.

Illusions of identity : the art of nation (1993)Willis, Anne-Marie, Hale & Iremonger

Orientalism (1978), Said, Edward W., Routledge & Kegan Paul

Culture and Imperialism (1994), Said, Edward W., Vintage London

Heart of Darkness (1902), Conrad, Joseph

The Oxford dictionary of literary terms (2008), Oxford University Press

May 2013 ◊ Lisa Lorenz ◊ MA Design and Art Direction

Contexts Presentation ◊ How exotic! How charming! - Cultural Appropriation of ‘First Nation’ Symbolism in Contemporary Fashion