Olive - Crochet Octopus Puzzle

©Dedri Uys 2013. All Rights Reserved

Edited by Venetia Smith

This Octopus is based on the Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball Pattern. It has a

lot of things in common with the Puzzle Ball, so if you have made that

one you, and your hands, should recognize most of the components.

The finished pattern will yield 3 separate segments that can be assembled

and taken apart at will—hence the puzzle. You can always sew the

segments together so that little hands can’t “break” it, but I personally

think that that is its most appealing quality.

I am happy for you to make as many of these Octopodes as you want –

both for personal use and for small-scale sale. Please just keep in mind

that this pattern has taken me A LOT of hours to write and refine, so I ask

that you credit me as and when you make anything using this pattern

(even if you modify it). Please do not copy or reproduce the actual

pattern in any way, shape or form.

xxx Dedri

Materials 4 mm Crochet Hook (US G/6 UK 8)

Double knit (or worsted weight) yarn in any colour of your choosing (approx. 280 m/300 yards)

Optional: a tiny amount of white yarn for the mouth detail

Yarn needle

Stuffing

2 buttons

Scraps of yarn in blue, white and yellow to use as st markers

Notes

The initial ch st’s in each round/row are NOT counted as a

stitch.

All instructions between asterisks should be repeated the

amount of times stipulated, so *sc inc, sc* x 2 will mean sc

inc, sc, sc inc, sc.

Abbreviations US Terminology used.

Ch Chain

Hdc Half double crochet

Sc Single crochet

Sc inc Single crochet increase – work 2 sc’s in the same stitch

St Stitch

Sl st Slip stitch

Sc2tog Single crochet 2 together (Sc decrease)

2

Hold your horses! Don’t make the following wedge lids just yet.

This is just an explanation of how to do them when they appear in

the pattern. So when I say “make a wedge lid”, this is how you will

do it. And you will need to do it 11 times, so study up.

1. Ch 2. Make 2 sc’s in the second ch from the hook. Ch 1 and

turn. (2)

2. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (2)

3. Sc inc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (4)

4. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (4)

5. Sc inc, 2 x sc, sc inc. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

6. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

7. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

8. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

9. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

10. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st’s, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. (4)

11. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (4)

12. Sc2tog x 2. Ch 1 and turn. (2)

13. Sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (2)

14. Sc2tog.

Right, now that that’s done with, let’s get started.

Wedge “Lids”

Chain of Lids (Make 2)

I think a chain of lids is probably the easiest thing to get started with while you have the instructions right in front of you.

These 2 segments will form the “body” of your octopus.

Following the instructions above, work a wedge lid. When you get to the

end of Row 14, start again at Row 1. Repeat rows 1 – 14 3 more times.

This will give you a chain of 4 “lids”. When you have finished the very

last “lid” of the chain, ch 1 and bind off. Set this chain of lids aside for

later.

Remember that you will need 2 of these chains, each containing 4 lids!

1. Ch 2 and make 3 sc’s in the second ch from the hook. Ch 1

and turn. (3)

2. Sc inc in each st. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

3. * Sc inc, sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (9)

4. * Sc inc, 2 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (12)

5. * Sc inc, 3 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (15)

6. * Sc inc, 4 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (18)

7. * Sc inc, 5 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (21)

8. * Sc inc, 6 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (24)

9. * Sc inc, 7 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (27)

10. * Sc inc, 8 x sc* x 3. Ch 1. (30)

Fold the half-circle in half and join the open side of the resulting

wedge together by making 9 sc’s along this edge. You will effec-

tively be working one sc through both layers of each row. Ch 1

and bind off.

Wedges (Make 12)

3

Start with a slip knot already on your hook. Starting at one end of one chain of “lids”, insert your hook

into the first st of the lid and the first st of one of the wedges. Make a sc. Continue working a sc

through both layers (into each st of the wedge and each row of the lid) until you have worked 15 sc’s.

Add the next wedge in the same way, again making 15 sc’s through both layers. Continue working

around until you have attached one side of each of the 4 wedges.

Now you will close the wedges. Starting in the same (last) st of the lid and the next st of the wedge,

continue around the fourth wedge, again making 15 sc’s through both layers and stuffing as you go.

Close the other 3 wedges in the same way. When you have closed all 4 wedges, join to the first st with

a sl st and bind off. Use the tail of yarn to attach the first and last wedges to each other to form a ring.

Attaching the Lids and Wedges Segments

Alternative way to attach the first and last wedges to each other: When you have finished closing all the wedges, identify the 2 st’s at the unattached point of the wedge furthest away from you. Sl st

into these 2 st’s and then sl st back into the first 2 st’s of the first wedge. Ch 1 and bind off. Work away your tail of yarn.

Octopus Mouth (Make 1)

1. Into a magic ring: ch 1, 6 x sc. Join to the first sc with a sl st.

2. Ch 1. 6 x sc inc. Join to the first sc with a sl st. (12)

3. Ch 1. *sc inc, sc* x 6. Join to the first sc with a sl st. Ch 1

and bind off. (18)

4. With white yarn and a slip knot already on your hook: start

in any st of Round 3. *Sc inc, sc in the next st. Sc in the

next st of Round 1 and skip the corresponding st of Round 3

(see Note and photos below)* x 6. Join to the first sc with a

sl st. Ch 1 and bind off. (24)

Alternative way to work Round 4 without mouth detail: don’t

bind off at the end of Round 3. Ch 1. *Sc inc, 2 x sc* x 6. Join to

the first sc with a sl st. Ch 1 and bind off.

Note: To sc into Round 1, insert your hook into the st of Round 1, 2

rounds below, and pull up a loop so that it is in line with the top of

Round 3. Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook. This

long sc will fall over the next st of Round 3, so skip that stitch (the

one underneath the long sc) and repeat the whole cluster again.

Tip: Start with the sc seam of the wedge to the right.

4

1. Ch 2. 3 x sc in the second ch from the hook. Ch 1 and turn. (3)

2. 3 x sc inc. Ch 1 and turn. (6)

3. *Sc inc, sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (9)

4. 9 x sc. Ch 1 and turn. (9)

5. *Sc inc, 2 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (12)

6. 12 x sc. Ch 1 and turn. (12)

7. *Sc inc, 3 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (15)

8. 3 x sc.

Now you will need to place a st marker in the last st of Round 7. To do this, you will need to leave Round 8 alone for a second, so

remove your hook and insert it into the last st of Round 7 (the st containing the first st of Round 8 - see Photo 1 below). Take a

scrap of blue yarn that has been folded in half and pull up a loop (Photo 2). Yarn over with both strands of blue yarn (Photo 3)

and pull them all the way through (Photos 4 and 5). This blue st marker is where you will attach the 3 wedge lids later on.

Now, continuing Round 8, sc in the remaining 12 st’s of Round 7. Ch 1 and turn. (15)

Octopus Head (Make 1)

1 2 3 4 5

9. Sc inc in the first st. Now add a white st marker in the last st of Round 8 in the same way as

before. Sc in the next 4 st’s. *Sc inc, 4 x sc* x 2. Ch 1 and turn. (18)

10. 18 x sc. Ch 1 and turn. (18)

11. *Sc inc, 5 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (21)

12. 21 x sc. Ch 1 and turn. (21)

13. *Sc inc, 6 x sc* x 3. Ch 1 and turn. (24)

14. 24 x sc. Join to the first sc of the round with a sl st. DO NOT TURN. (24)

15. Please note: I advise you to use a scrap of yellow yarn as a st marker to mark the first st of

this round (and subsequent rounds). To do this, simply lay the scrap of yellow yarn over your

work after the initial ch-1 and then work over it. In subsequent rounds, flick it back and forth

over your work after each initial ch-1 and work over it. This forms what is called a running st

marker.

Ch 1. 24 x sc. Do not make your first st in the same st as the sl st join. Your last st should

fall in the back end of the sl st join, which is quite tight. Join to the first sc with a sl st. (24)

Now you are going to add the mouth.

White st marker at the end

of Round 8.

Yellow Running St Marker

5

16. Ch 1. Place the mouth inside the head (with the right side pointing away from you). Insert your hook into the next st of the

head and any st of Round 4 of the mouth, and make a sc through both layers. Make 23 more sc’s, working into every st and

through both layers (see photos below). Don’t join, just continue around in a spiral. (24)

17. Skip the initial ch st of Round 16. *Sc inc, 3 x sc* x 6. (30)

18. *Sc inc, 2 x sc* x 10. (40)

Round 16: This is what your work should look like from the bottom (work turned for illustration only)

Now you are going to work the tentacles (or maybe have a glass of wine first?):

19. *Sl st in the next 2 st’s and ch 31. Sl st in the top loop only of the second ch from the hook, and

the next 6 ch’s. Sc in the next 8 ch’s and then hdc in the next 15 ch’s. Skip the next st of Round

18 and sl st in the next 2 st’s* x 8.

Please Note: There are 2 sl st’s before every tentacle and 2 after. Add the skipped stitch and

that makes 5 st’s of Round 18 used per tentacle. You are going to be VERY annoyed if you get

to the last tentacle and realize you’ve missed a few of these st’s, so count carefully. Trust me,

it’s a PAIN to undo all the tentacles at this stage!!

20. Please Note: You will be working over the sl st’s from Round 19 and into the st’s below them (Round 18) as it is difficult, if not

impossible, to get into the sl st’s. So, with that in mind:

Sl st over the first sl st of Round 19 and into the st below it (Round 18). Skip the next sl st. *30 x sc into both remaining loops

of the ch st’s down the tentacle (Photos 1 and 2 below). Ch 6 (Photo 3). Sl st in the 2nd st from the hook and the next 2 ch’s.

Sc in the next ch st and hdc in the last ch st (Photo 4). 30 x sc up the tentacle (Photos 5 and 6). Sc into the next 3 st’s of Round

18 and skip the next st of Round 18 (Photos 7 and 8).* x 8. When you have finished making all 8 tentacles, sl st in the first st of

the side of the first tentacle. Ch 1 and bind off.

You will notice that the tentacles have a natural tendency to curl (Photo 9).

1 2 3 4 5

6

7

8 9

10

You can add the eyes at this point, but it is much easier to place them accurately once the head and its lids have been attached to their

respective wedges.

6

Now you will need to attach 3 wedge lids to the right side of the head.

So, with the front of the head facing you and a slip knot already on your hook, join

your yarn to the end of Round 7 of the head with a sl st. (This is where you placed

the blue st marker.) Work 3 wedge lids as before.

When you get to the end of the third lid, ch 1, but don’t bind off.

Assembling the Head and Wedges Segment

Place one of the wedges behind the first wedge lid with the seam of the wedge to

the right. Insert your hook into the first st of the lid and the first st of the wedge.

Make a sc. Continue working a sc through both layers (into each st of the wedge

and each row of the lid) until you have made 15 sc’s. Add the next wedge in the

same way, again working 15 sc’s through both layers. Continue working around

until you have attached one side of each of the 3 lids.

Now you will be attaching the last wedge to the back of the head. The head pivots around the last lid and will naturally fall so that the

top of the head is pointing upwards and the back is pointing towards you (because of the weight of the tentacles). To attach the head,

you will be making 15 sc’s through the bottom of the opening at the back of the head and the first side of the wedge (so both layers),

followed by 15 sc’s around the top of the opening and the other side of the wedge (so both layers again).

Insert your hook into the first st (the stitch containing the blue st marker). This st already contains a sl st join from the lid. Now insert

your hook into the first st of one of the wedges as before (Photos 1 and 2 below). Make a sc through both layers (Photo 3). Make 7

more sc’s, working into each row down the incline of the head and each st of the wedge (Photo 4).

You will notice a loop at the base of the incline (Photo 5). Sc through this loop and the next st of the wedge. Now continue working 6

more sc’s into the rows of the incline and the st’s of the wedge (Photo 6). This will bring you to the white st marker (Photo 7).

1 2 3 4

Loop

Please Note: The blue running st

marker in this photo should be

yellow! 5 6 7

7

Sc into the hole containing the white st marker (so the next row of the head) and the next st of the wedge. Remove both the white and

the blue st markers and use either to mark the last stitch worked (I used the blue st marker - see photo 8). You will attach the first

wedge to this stitch later on to complete your segment. You have now successfully attached the first side of the wedge to the bottom

of the head (Photo 9) and should now have made 16 sc’s through both layers. Only 14 more to go!!!

Now make 5 more sc’s into the rows up the incline of the head and the st’s of the wedge, stuffing as you go. Sc into each of the 3 st’s of

Round 1 of the head and the next 3 st’s of the wedge. (Ignore the big central hole formed by the initial ch st and work over it. See Photo

10.) Sc x 6 into the rows down the incline of the head and the last 6 st’s of the wedge (Photo 11). The last st should already contain the

sl st join from the lids.

Sc x 15 into the other side of each of the 3 wedges and lids as before, stuffing as you go.

When you get to the end, join to the first st with a sl st and bind off. Use the tail of yarn to attach the first and last wedges to each oth-

er to form a ring. Use the moved blue st marker as a guide when attaching the head to the first wedge. For alternative instructions on

attaching the first and last wedges to each other, see Page 3.

Attaching the first and last

wedges

8 9

11

3 st’s of Round 1

Big Central Hole 10

8

The End

I hope you enjoy making—and playing with—your Octopus Puzzle.

Please feel free to contact me should you have any questions!

You are more than welcome to share your completed Octopodes

on my Facebook Page or as a Ravelry project. I would love to see

how yours turns out.

dedri@lookatwhatimade.net

Www.lookatwhatimade.net

More Free Patterns>>

©Dedri Uys 2013. All Rights Reserved

Now figure out where you want to place your eyes and sew them on. I placed mine slightly to the side of the head. You can use

buttons, felt, safety eyes...anything you can lay your hands on! Just make sure to attach them VERY well so that little hands can’t pull

them off.

“Building” your Octopus

Slip one of the “body” segments

over the other as in the photo.

Turn so that the lids are running vertically

and slip the head into one of the big gaps.

Slip the rest of the wedges over the body

so that each one sits neatly in a gap.

Attaching the Eyes

Carla Ferguson Karyl Mowers Phyllis Haygood Pan Perkins Maggie Miller

Amy Affleck Caroline de Prijcker Brenda Fiedler April Davis Gail Griffis-Ross

Last Update: 31 May 2014

This pattern was tested by:

If you need a bit more help with your Octopus Puzzle, have a look at the original Crochet

Amish Puzzle Ball. I regularly update the pattern with tips, photos and links.