criss-cross bias dress

pattern adaptationsand construction

instructions for criss-cross bias technique canbe found in the july 2009 issue of sew beautiful

bodice1. Cut a rectangle of bodice fabric at least 2-inches

larger all around than front bodice pattern piece. Mark a center vertical line. Fold and stitch two 1/8-inch vertical tucks 1/2-inch apart and 3/4-inch from center line. Repeat on opposite side of center line (fig. 1).

2. Cut out bodice pattern from prepared rectangle making sure to center pattern piece on center line. Cut out a second bodice from print for lining. Cut two back bodice pieces on fold.

3. Apply shoulder insert to back bodices before front bodice: Fold back bodice right sides together and place shoulder insert inside aligning shoulder seam edges and placing right side of insert to right side of back bodice (fig. 2).

Figure 1

1/2” 3/4”

1-1/2”

Figure 2Shoulder

insert

CB

RS

WS

Back

Fold

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Stitch across through all three layers using the appropriate seam allowance. Flip shoulder piece up and bodice down and press seam. Repeat for remaining shoulder (fig. 3).

4. To attach f ront bodice to shoulder pieces, place f ront edge of shoulder insert to front bodice with right sides together and raw edges even. Place right side of bodice lining to other side so that shoulder insert is sandwiched between front bodice layers (fig. 4). Insert other shoulder/back bodice piece on other side and stitch across shoulder seams (fig. 5). Flip front bodices down so that they are wrong sides together and press seam.

5. While side seams are open, finish arm curves and neck edge with a 3/8-inch finished bias facing or bias binding cut from solid fabric (fig. 6). Wash out stabilizer from shoulder pieces and allow bodice to dry. Iron bodice and continue constructing dress.

coNSTRUcTioN SeQUeNce1. Create piping from solid fabric

and pipe bottoms of front and back bodices. Set bodice aside (side seams will be stitched after skirt is applied).

2. Tear skirt back according to pattern. Apply a placket in the center back of the skirt. Gather top of skirt and join to back bodices along piping.

3. Tear front skirt across entire width (45-inches) of fabric according to pattern length. Fold skirt piece in half to find center front and press; mark center foldline. Repeat tuck treatment from bodice down entire length of skirt front. On either side of center tucks fold 1/2-inch pleats; fold as many needed to draw up fabric to fit bottom of front bodice. Pin and press as you move across the skirt.

4. Baste stitch across the top in the seam allowance to secure pleats. If pleated skirt is slightly wider than front bodice width, simply trim each side seam down to fit bodice (this is much

Figure 3

Left back(RS)

Right back(RS)

Figure 4

Figure 5

Backlining(RS)

Frontlining(RS)

Front bodice (RS)

Front bodice lining (WS)

Front bodice on

bottomBack bodices

Figure 6

Finish with bias facing

and binding

easier than trying to get perfect pleats) (fig. 7).

5. Join front skirt to bodice along piped waist seam aligning center pleats with those on bodice.

6. Apply pockets before stitching side seams of dress. Prepare Pockets: Stitch bias finish to top of criss-cross band, sewing along stay-stitching line. Fold over bias; press so that the folded edge extends just below the stay-stitching line. Topstitch from right side across bias/criss-cross band seam catching back side of bias band in stitching line (fig. 8).

7. Join pocket piece to bottom of criss-cross band following the stay-stitching (fig. 9).

8. Use pocket piece with criss-cross bias attached to cut out a piece of Sulky™ Solvy®. Place stabilizer on top of pocket. Stitch around the sides with a

Figure 7

Trim to fit if

needed

1/2” pleats

Figure 8 Bias

Pocket top

2 Sew Beautiful July/August 2009

1/4-inch seam allowance. Do not stitch across top (fig. 10). Clip curves and turn pocket to right side through top like a little pillowcase. Press around turned back edges.

Figure 9

Pocket(RS)

Figure 10

Stitch 1/4” from edge

underarm to skirt bottom and finish with a zigzag or serger (fig. 12).

12. Apply buttons and buttonholes to back bodice. Apply three little decorative flower buttons to bodice f ront as shown (optional).

13. To hem, turn dress edge up 1/4-inch then 2-1/4 inches and hand blind-stitch. –SB

9. Pockets are applied to skirt directly on top of folded pleats, so they need to be pressed down flat and even where pocket will be stitched. Secure each pleat with basting glue to help hold pleats in place while stitching pocket. Position pockets directly on top of folded pleats. Pin or glue baste sufficiently to secure for topstitching. Topstitch with a 1/16-inch edge stitch. The pockets on the sample fall 1-3/4-inches from bodice/skirt seamline (fig. 11).

10. Turn under f ront and back bodice lining pieces at waist and hand blind-stitch to secure.

11. Stitch side seams of dress from

Figure 11

Figure 12

WS

Solvy®

1-3/4”

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