created by: university of minnesota extension master gardener-anoka county eva knudsen
DESCRIPTION
Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen. Growing Berries in Minnesota. The Six Most Important Things to Remember. Proper Site Selection For the plant – Full sun Protection from wind On a slope? Good soil drainage - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka CountyEva Knudsen
Growing Berries in Minnesota
The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Proper Site SelectionFor the plant –
Full sunProtection from windOn a slope?Good soil drainageWhat was growing there
before?What is growing around
area?
For you, the gardener – Close to a water sourceeasy access
The Six Most Important Things to RememberProper Site Preparation
Do a soil test
Obtain proper pH
Add soil nutrients according to test results
Make sure area is weed free
Plant certified disease-free plants
The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Proper Watering
Avoid overhead watering
Put soaker hose in place before planting under mulch
The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Good Air CirculationGood air flow decreases the chance of
diseases and insects
Proper pruning and thinning of plants increases air flow
Keeping areas weed free increase air flow
The Six Most Important Things to RememberGood SanitationMany diseases and
insects harbor in plant material and debris
Prune out diseased or injured plants
Remove over ripe fruit as often and quickly as possible
The Six Most Important Things to RememberMulch Covers diseases
that can overwinter in the soil or debris on the ground
Holds soil moisture
Helps keep soil at a constant temperature
Why Blueberries?
'North Sky' blueberry, photo by: David Hansen
Soil for BlueberriesSoil pH is the most limiting
factor
Optimum pH is 4.0-5.0 (have a soil test)
Sandy-Sandy loam soils can be modified by mixing 4-6 inches of acid peat into the upper 6-8 inches of soil
Elemental sulfur can be added to acidify the soil but requires at least 1 yr. for the pH to adjust.
Planting a Blueberry BushPlanting too deep or
not deep enough may cause root damage
Set plants at the same depth they were in the container for the best results.
Mulch
Fertilization and Cultivation of BlueberriesDo not cultivate deeper than 2
inches
Mulch 2-4 inches deep and 1-2 feet around each bush
For new plants; apply nitrogen as a sidedressing when the second flush of growth starts
For older plants; apply nitrogen in the spring
Plants on very sandy soils benefit from a split nitrogen application; half in the spring and the other half at petal fall
Do not fertilize after July
Pruning BlueberriesPrune off flower buds and
weak, spindly growth on new plants for the first 2 yrs after planting
Prune mature plants in late winter (before buds swell) cutting out diseased and dead wood, branches 5 yrs. or older each year
Pruning cuts should be made at ground level or to a low growing lateral branch, allowing 1-3 new braches to develop each year
Cultivar Yield potential
Hardiness Berry size Flavor Firmness Plant size
Season
Chippewa High Excellent Med-large
Sweet Good 4.5 x 4 Mid
Northblue High Excellent Large Tart Fair 3 x 4 Mid
Polaris** Med-High Very good
Med Sweet, aromatic
Exc 4 x 4 Early
Northland High Very good
Med Mild Good 4 x 4 Mid
St. Cloud** Med - High
Very good
Med Sweet Good 5 x 4 Early
Northcountry Med Very good
Small Lowbush - mild
Poor 2.5 x 4 Early
Northsky Low Very good
Small Lowbush - sweet
Poor 2 x 3
Characteristics of Blueberry Cultivars for Minnesota
Harvesting BlueberriesHarvest season is 2-5
weeks
The underside of the berry will turn from pink to blue when fully ripe
Pick only fully ripe blue berries
Pick only when dry and keep handling to a minimum
Cool berries promptly and store at temps between 32-40 degrees F.
Winter ProtectionWinter injury can occur at
-25 degrees F. if the plant is not protected
Blueberries are susceptible to sunscald injury in late winter
If snow cover is less than 12 inches, other protection is needed
Pest Management for BlueberriesBlueberries can successfully be
grown without pesticides
Good sanitation and air circulation thru proper pruning is most important
The most important thing to avoid pest problems starts with proper site selection and preparation
Strawberries
Strawberries VarietiesJunebearing
strawberries produce fruit from early June through late July and are generally overwintered
Junebearing plants set
flower buds in the fall of the year prior to fruiting when the day is relatively short, about 12 hours
Strawberries VarietiesEverbearing strawberries
produce two to three harvests of fruit intermittently during the spring, summer and fall and do not send out many runners.
Day Neutral strawberries produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries also produce few runners.
Planting Strawberries A well-drained loam or
sandy loam soil is best to maintain plant vigor and reduce disease problems.
Strawberries require full sunlight
Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with pH 5.3-6.5
Growing Junebearing StrawberriesThe main planting system used for
Junebearing cultivars is the matted row
Set the plants 1½ to 2½ feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart
Let the runners develop until the row is 1 to 1½ feet wide. This system allows for easier weed control, easier harvest, less fruit rot, and fewer foliage diseases than other systems.
Growing Day-Neutral StrawberriesPlant day-neutral cultivars in the same
way, or on a 6-to 8-inch raised bed. The raised bed provides higher spring soil temperatures and better drainage, allowing faster establishment and earlier cropping.
Photo credit:Dave Hansen
Fertilizing StrawberriesBefore planting have a soil test done
Fertilize early each spring before the plants produce flowers.
For June-bearing types, you may choose to spread another fertilizer application after they have finished producing fruit for the season. (During restoration is the best)
DO NOT fertilize the plants during flowering or fruit production as your berries will be softer, of poorer quality, and will not keep well.
Renovating June-Bearing StrawberriesAfter harvest is completed mow
off the foliage using a standard lawnmower, taking care not to damage the crowns of the plants
After 1-2 weeks, rototill or hoe the rows so they are only half their original width
Thru renovating, June-bearing strawberries should be completely replaced every 3-5 years for maximum productivity.
Everbearing StrawberriesRunners are normally
removed as they appear, especially if the "hill" system is used.
For maximum productivity, replace the planting every three years.
Day-neutral strawberries should also be replaced every 3 years.
Strawberries: Covered and UncoveredWinter mulch protects strawberry buds from freezing
and should be left on as late as possible in spring to keep plants from coming out of dormancy and growing too early,
One sign that the cover should be removed immediately is if the strawberry leaves begin to turn yellow. Even then you can leave a light mulch on the plants if that yellowing occurs quite early in the season. This provides some protection from cold temperatures.
When you remove straw mulch, keep it between the rows of plants. That way it will be relatively easy to cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.
STRAWBERRY GRAY MOLD
Occurs frequently
Photo by Plant Disease Clinic
,
STRAWBERRY STRAWBERRY LEAF SPOT / SCORCH LEAF SPOT / SCORCH
.
Photo by Chad Behrendt
Most Common Insect Pests of StrawberriesTarnished Plant Bugs
Picnic Beetles
Strawberry Root Weevil
Slugs
Tarnished Plant Bug Damage
Raspberries
RaspberriesThe main types which can be grown in the
home garden are red, yellow, black, and purple.
Raspberries can be grown successfully in most areas of Minnesota.
Raspberries have perennial roots and crowns but canes live for only two summers.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties. During the first year, the new canes grow vegetatively. The canes overwinter and during the second growing season the second year canes produces fruit and then die.
Where Should You Plant RaspberriesGrow raspberries in an
area that has good air circulation, water drainage and full sunlight.
Protect plants from windy sites as wind can induce excessive drying and cane injury.
Any well-drained soil is satisfactory for growing raspberries. Additional water will be needed on a sandy soil.
Training RaspberriesAll raspberries benefit
from some type of support system
The simplest trellis system uses single or double wires or twine. Place posts about every 10 to 12 feet. Place the canes between the wires and tie them loosely to the wire. The wires can be tied every 2 feet to prevent spreading.
Pruning Summer-bearing Red and Yellow Raspberries Cut and dispose of all canes
immediately after they bear fruit. (during dry weather)
At this time you should thin out new shoots so only three or four of the sturdiest canes remain per foot of row.
In the spring the fruiting canes should be cut back slightly. Never cut back more than one-fourth (25%) the total height of the cane.
Pruning Fall-bearing Raspberries For a fall crop, cut all canes off at the base
before growth begins in spring.
Fall-bearing raspberries (also called Ever-bearing) are able to initiate flowers during the first year. During the second year, they can produce a summer crop on the same canes
For a fall and summer crop, thin the canes as described for summer-bearing raspberries. The canes that produced the fall crop should not be removed as they will produce fruit the following summer. Prune them back in spring to the last visible node that had fruit.
Pruning Black and Purple Raspberries Black and most purple raspberries produce new
canes only from the buds at the base of the year old canes. These clumps or "hills" remain in the original planting location.
When new canes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching
After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level
Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches to 12 - 18 inches. Select 4 to 5 canes per hill and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Blackberries in Minnesota?Black raspberries are hard to fruit reliably
year after year in zone 4.
The UofM is working in cooperation with the large blackberry breeding program at the University of Arkansas. U of A has developed a first year cane-fruiting blackberry, which means it fruits on the first year growth.
They anticipate at least 5 years of field trials until they're confident in their results and certain the crowns won't die out.
Stop the Spread of Raspberry DiseasesCultural practices can limit
the spread of diseases Destroy wild or abandoned
brambles near the gardenAfter harvest, remove and
destroy canes that have fruited, are diseased, or are weak
Improve air circulation by proper thinning and pruning and by controlling weeds
Viruses on Raspberry
Raspberries are susceptible to a number of viruses but are hard to diagnose and can be easily confused with herbicide damage
Consult an expert if you think your plants are infected
Photo: F. D. McElroy
'Redlake' currant Photo credit: Dave Hansen
Gooseberries
•Elderberries
METHODS OF PREPARATION
Jams and JelliesJams and jellies have a very high
sugar content.
The sugar binds with the liquid present making it difficult for microorganisms to grow.
To prevent surface contamination after the product is made and thus possible yeast or mold growth, jams and jellies are either canned, frozen or refrigerated.
Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWithout Added Pectin
Jams, conserves, and marmalades; made without added pectin require longer cooking and have a slightly different flavor from those with added pectin. They also yield a less finished product.
The product is done when the temperature reaches 220° - 222° F.
Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWith Added Pectin
Be sure to carefully follow the directions accompanying the pectin product. The order of combining ingredients depends on the type of pectin used.
Successful preparation of pectin-added jams, marmalades, and conserves depends on accurate timing. Begin counting time when the mixture reaches a full rolling boil-one that cannot be stirred down.
There is a third method for preparing jams; it does not require cooking the fruit-this product must be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
Note. Jelly jars with paraffin are no longer recommended. An incomplete seal with paraffin and the absence of a heat treatment may result in mold growth and toxin production in the jelly. Persons continuing to use the paraffin, and no water bath method, should be aware of the potential health risk.
A research study conducted at the University of Minnesota demonstrated that heat processing jelly for 5 to 15 minutes had no harmful effect on the products. Those tested included ones made with liquid and powdered pectin, as well as traditional no-pectin-added ones. In addition, the heat processing gives a better seal, and destroys mold that may be present on the top surface of the product.
SugarSugar helps in gel formation,
contributes flavor to the jelly, and at the concentration of 55 percent by weight, serves as a preservative.
Corn syrup or honey can replace part of the sugar in jelly recipes. If too much honey or corn syrup is substituted, the flavor of the fruit may be lost or lessened.
Aspartame (Equal/NutraSweet*) cannot be substituted for sugar in recipes that require heating
Freezing FruitFreezing, when properly done, is the method
of food preservation which may potentially preserve the greatest quantity of nutrients
Fruits—Most frozen fruits maintain high quality for 8 to 12 months. Unsweetened fruits lose quality faster than those packed in sugar or sugar syrups.
Drying or Dehydrating Fruit
Drying removes most of the moisture from foods.
Microorganisms cannot grow and enzyme action is slowed down.
Dried foods should be stored in airtight containers to prevent moisture from rehydrating the products and allowing microbial growth.
Questions?