create any size - pattern grading for sewers

Craftsy.com 1© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

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with Kathleen Cheetham

CREATE ANY SIZE: PATTERN GRADING FOR SEWERS

Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy is not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by or in any way officially connected with any of the products featured in this video. All product and company names, logos, brands, or other trademarks or images featured or referred to in this video are the property of their respective trademark holders. The use in this video of the products and any protected intellectual property is used for illustrative purposes, and no commercial claim to their use, or suggestion of sponsorship, affiliation or endorsement, is made by Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy.

Supplies & Resources

SUPPLIES• Cardboard grid to protect table• Permanent markers in different colors• Micro/ extra-fine tip permanent felt pen (Sharpie

or other), in black and red• Old business cards, index cards or card stock • Highlighter • Paper scissors• Pattern weights • Clear grading ruler• French curve• Kraft paper

• Kathleen uses Rainbow brand Colored Kraft Duo-Finish in light blue; available at teacher and classroom supply stores or online at mpmschoolsupplies.com

• Transparent tape• Pattern awl• Pattern paper, resilient for tracing patterns• Needle wheel

SUGGESTED READING• Grading Workbook by Connie Amaden-Crawford

(Fashion Patterns By Coni, 2011)• Master Patterns and Grading for Women's

Outsizes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1995)• Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes by Gerry

Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)• Pattern Grading for Children's Clothes by Gerry

Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)• Pattern Grading for Men's Clothes by Gerry

Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991)• The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product

Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella (Apparel Technical Services, 1998)

• Concepts of Pattern Grading by Carolyn L Moore, Kathy K Mullet & Margaret Prevatt Young (Fairchild Books, second edition 2008)

• Grading Techniques for Fashion Design by Jeanne Price & Bernard Zamkoff (Fairchild Publications, second edition 1996)

http://www.craftsy.com

http://www.mpmschoolsupplies.com/


with Kathleen Cheetham

CREATE ANY SIZE: PATTERN GRADING FOR SEWERS

Supplies & Resources

GLOSSARY OF TERMSGrade (noun) The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size, e.g., 2" be-

tween size 12 and 14; or the incremental growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.

Grade (verb) To proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern.

Total or overall grade The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size. For exam-ple, 2" between size 12 and 14.

Allocated grade The portion of the total grade to be applied to one pattern piece.

Incremental grade The growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.

Nest or graded nest A set of graded pattern pieces stacked, illustrating the difference in each size. You will also see graded nests in multi-size patterns.

Cardinal points The places on a pattern piece where we will insert or take away room to in-crease/decrease its size.

Grade rule library Also called Grade Rule Table or Chart; a list of cardinal points along with their grade increments for each pattern piece.

Base size Also called the master pattern; the original (usually middle) pattern size that is graded up and down to create the full size range

Production pattern A master pattern which has been graded for all of its sizes.

True up or truing Checking the graded pattern pieces to ensure they fit accurately together at their connecting seams.

Size run The sizes in a specific style, such as 4, 6, 8, 10, 12

Machine grading Mechanically moving a pattern to grade. When this method is used, the pattern is clamped into the grading machine and a knob is turned to set the grading increment.

Computer grading The base pattern is first digitized, then grade rules are applied using software to create the new sizes.

Manual/hand grading Grading on paper using ruler and pencil.

Cut and spread grading Manually grading by cutting the pattern apart along cardinal points, then either spreading to grade up or overlapping to grade down.

Pattern shifting Grading the pattern by shifting it back and forth, up and down along an X and Y axis.


with Kathleen Cheetham SewingCREATE ANY SIZE: PATTERN GRADING

FOR SEWERS


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Charts

GARMENT SIZE CHART

BASE SIZE 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm in. cm

Bust 30 77 32 82 34 87 36 92 38 97 40 102 42 107 44 112 46 117 48 122 50 127

Waist 22 57 24 62 26 67 28 72 30 77 32 82 34 87 36 92 38 97 40 102 42 107

Hip 32 82 34 87 36 92 38 97 40 102 42 107 44 112 46 117 48 122 50 127 52 132



FOR SEWERS


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Charts

PATTERN GRADING CHART

CARDINAL POINTS FORMULA PLACEMENT 1 SIZE

2" (5 CM) GRADE2 SIZES

4" (10 CM) GRADE

Top/Blouse Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

Front & Back¼ of the full grade of

2" or 5 cm

1 and 6¼ of allocated grade

½" or 1.25 cmMidpoint of neckline to waist 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

2 and 7 ¼ Shoulder seam to waist 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

3 and 8 ½ Lower armscye to waist ¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm

Circumference check 4/8" 1.25 cm 1" 2.5 cm

4 and 9 ¼ Center front or center back to armscye 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

5 and 10 ¼ Center front or center back to side seam 1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm



FOR SEWERS


Charts



4" (10 CM) GRADE

Skirt Front & Back Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

11 and 16 ¼Waist to hem: halfway between center front

and first dart1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

12 and 17 ¼Waist to hem: halfway between first

and second dart1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

13 and 18 ½Waist to hem: halfway between second dart

and side seam¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm

14 and 19 ½Hip line: center front or center back

to side seam¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm

15 and 20 ½Knee: center front or center back

to side seam¼" .62 cm ½" 1.25 cm



FOR SEWERS


CONTINUED >

Charts



4" (10 CM) GRADE

Sleeve Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

21 ¼Midway under arm and center front notch

to hem1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

22 ¼Midway center front notch and shoulder notch to hem

1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

23 ¼Midway shoulder notch

and center back notch to hem1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

24 ¼Midway center back notch

and under arm to hem1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm

25 ¼Section sleeve cap roughly in half

above notches1/8" .31 cm ¼" .62 cm



FOR SEWERS


CONTINUED >

Charts

PATTERN GRADING CHART TEMPLATE



4" (10 CM) GRADE

Top/Blouse Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

Front & Back¼ of the full grade of

2" or 5 cm" cm " cm

1 and 6¼ of allocated grade

½" or 1.25 cmMidpoint of neckline to waist " cm " cm

2 and 7 ¼ Shoulder seam to waist " cm " cm

3 and 8 ½ Lower armscye to waist " cm " cm

Circumference check 4/8" 1.25 cm 1" 2.5 cm

4 and 9 ¼ Center front or center back to armscye " cm " cm

5 and 10 ¼ Center front or center back to side seam " cm " cm



FOR SEWERS


CONTINUED >

Charts



4" (10 CM) GRADE

Skirt Front & Back Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

11 and 16 ¼Waist to hem: halfway between center front

and first dart" cm " cm

12 and 17 ¼Waist to hem: halfway between first

and second dart" cm " cm

13 and 18 ½Waist to hem: halfway between second dart

and side seam" cm " cm

14 and 19 ½Hip line: center front or center back

to side seam" cm " cm

15 and 20 ½Knee: center front or center back

to side seam" cm " cm



FOR SEWERS


Charts



4" (10 CM) GRADE

Sleeve Allocated Grade inches cm inches cm

21 ¼Midway under arm and center front notch

to hem" cm " cm

22 ¼Midway center front notch and shoulder notch to hem

" cm " cm

23 ¼Midway shoulder notch

and center back notch to hem" cm " cm

24 ¼Midway center back notch

and under arm to hem" cm " cm

25 ¼Section sleeve cap roughly in half

above notches" cm " cm


Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers with Kathleen Cheetham

10© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

BLOUSE BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

Back(cut one on fold)

SIZE 14

6

7

8

9

10

19

CB

CB

Blouse Practise Pattern PiecesBack

11

Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers with Kathleen Cheetham© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

TOTAL BLOUSE PRACTICE PATTERN

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut two)


Back(cut one on fold)

Bust Point

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut two)Front

CF

CF

SIZE 14

SIZE 14

SIZE 14

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

14 19

CB

CB

Sleeve

2421 22 23

25

Grading a BlousePlacement of Cardinal Points



BLOUSE FACINGS & COLLAR

SEAM ALLO

WANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM

)(cut tw

o fabric, cut one interfacing)

CB


Front Facing(cut two fabric, cut two interfacing)

CF

CF

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut one fabric, cut one interfacing)

Back Facing

Collar

SIZE 14

SIZE 14

SIZE 14

Blouse Practise Pattern PiecesFacings and Collar



BLOUSE FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN

Bust Point

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut two)Front

CF

CF

SIZE 14

1

2

3

4

5

14

Blouse Practise Pattern PiecesFront



SKIRT BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

Back

CB

161718

19

20

Skirt Back



SKIRT FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN

Front

CF

11 12 13

14

15

Skirt Front

16


TOTAL SKIRT PRACTICE PATTERN

BackFront

CBCF

CFCB CB

CB CBCF

11 1612 1713 18

14

15

19

20

SS

SS SS

SS

17


SKIRT WAISTBAND PRACTICE PATTERN

CFCB CB

CB CBCF

SS

SS SS

SS

18


SLEEVE PRACTICE PATTERN

SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)(cut two)

SIZE 14

Sleeve

2421 22 23

25

Blouse Practise Pattern PiecesSleeve



SLEEVELESS TOP BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

cut one on foldSEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in

CENT

RE B

ACK

- pla

ce o

n fo

ld

Sleeveless Top - Back

CB

6

7

8

9

10



SLEEVELESS TOP FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN


CENTRE FRONT - place on fold

Sleeveless Top - Front

CF

1

2

3

4

5



TOTAL SLEEVELESS TOP PRACTICE PATTERN




CENT

RE B

ACK

- pla

ce o

n fo

ld

Sleeveless Top - Front Sleeveless Top - Back

CF

CB

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10




CENT

RE B

ACK

- pla

ce o

n fo

ld

Sleeveless Top - Front Sleeveless Top - Back

CF

CB

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

create any size - pattern grading for sewers

Documents

middle pattern size

concepts of pattern

base size

tween size

set of graded pattern

total grade

multisize patterns

grading techniques