Crafting out of poverty

Craft&Design in Vietnam

2012

While efforts have been made to verify the information contained in this document, the International Trade Centre (ITC), and the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) cannot accept responsibility for any errors that it may contain. The views expressed in this report can in no way be taken to reflect the official opinion of the MDG Achievement Fund, the Viet Nam Trade Promotion Agency VIETRADE, the Viet Nam handicraft exporters association VIETCRAFT, the Vietnam National Cleaner Production Centre (VNCPC), ITC and UNIDO. The usual disclaimers regarding responsibilities apply to this report.

Craft&Design in Vietnam

2012

PrefaceThis publication is made possible by the International Trade Centre (ITC) and the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), within the context of the joint programme ‘Green Production and Trade to Increase Income and Employment Opportunities for the Rural Poor’ and in close partnership with the Sustainable Product Innovation (SPIN) Project of the Vietnam National Cleaner Production Centre (VNCPC).

Vietnam has a long and rich tradition of handmade crafts, but the rural fami-lies that produce them are among the country’s poorest. Against this back-ground, the joint programme works to increase income and employment oppor-tunities for raw craft material growers/collectors and grassroots handicrafts and furniture producers. The cultivation and processing of natural raw materials and handicraft production constitute the most important sources of additional income for rural households.

Following a successful experience in 2011, this “craft and design” publication presents the results of a second round of design assistance made available to companies by a team of foreign designers engaged under the programme by ITC, UNIDO and VNCPC. The sustainable product collec-tions will be first introduced to interna-tional buyers at LifeStyle Vietnam 2012, the international home décor and gift fair organized by VIETCRAFT in Hochiminh City in April 2012.

As a result of design efforts, companies have developed new product lines which are commercially viable i.e. economically sustainable, and the production of which does not jeopardize environment. The local employment created in the production of input material for these products, alongside direct employment, contributes to livelihood security and social and eco-nomic sustainability including more equi-table value chains. Since these products are easily produced within the traditional set up of ‘craft villages’ characteristic of Vietnam’s cultural industry, they also help vitalize and sustain the local culture.

The joint programme is is funded under the Thematic Window ‘Development and the Private Sector’ of the MDG Achievement Fund. The ‘Development and the Private Sector’ Window seeks “to facilitate the achievement of the MDGs through inter-ventions that promote the development of private sector, through enabling policy fra-meworks, the growth of inclusive markets and the establishment of pro-poor public-private partnerships that create and sus-tain decent and productive employment.”

For further details on the present publi-cation, or the programme, please contact the Programme Management Unit, at pmu@greentrade.org.vn or visit us on the web at www.greentrade.org.vn.

Mr. Le Ba Ngoc

Secretary-General AND Vice-Chairman Vietnam Handicraft Exporters

Association (Vietcraft)

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About the programme

Viet Nam has always produced substantial handmade products, which is deeply rooted in the culture and traditions of its people. Promoting a rapidly growing handicraft in-dustry in Viet Nam is part of the Vietnamese government’s plan to foster economic deve-lopment across all regions of the country, reducing unemployment, especially in the rural areas, and raising exports. Viet Nam is gradually revealing both its potential and the wide range of its products to the inter-national handicraft markets. The sector has created millions of jobs for local workers, elevating their living standards while helping to preserve ancient traditions. In general, handicrafts are produced at household level, whereas product finishing, packaging and trading are mostly undertaken by SMEs. Several hundred crafts exporters with large producer networks throughout the country are providing employment for 1.35 million people in some 2,000 crafts villages.

Against this background, the programme aims to increase income and employment opportunities for raw material growers/collectors and grassroots producers of handicrafts and small furniture, targeting 4,800 poor households in four northern provinces of Viet Nam, namely Thanh Hoa, Nghe An, Hoa Binh and Phu Tho. Within the four targeted provinces, the

programme will focus on the five following value chains : (i) bamboo/rattan ; (ii) seri-culture and weaving ; (iii) sea grass ; (iv) lacquerware ; and (v) handmade paper.

The complex challenges faced by the five value chains, ranging from sustainable raw material production, entrepreneurial skills development and cleaner production to market linkages and trade information deficits, can best be addressed by a joint programme which combines the core com-petencies of the relevant UN agencies ; the International Trade Centre, the U.N. Industrial Development Organization, the Food and Agriculture Organization, the International Labour Organization and the U.N. Conference on Trade and development.

The programme’s approach is to develop better integrated, pro-poor, and environ-mentally sustainable “green” value chains, enabling poor growers, collectors and produ-cers to improve their products and link them to more profitable markets. The philosophy behind it is simple : increased sales by com-panies will increase the demand for handi-craft production at household level, and, as a consequence, their income derived from it.

All project outputs are directed towards changing the systemic competitiveness of the

value chain and shall together lead to higher income of beneficiaries. Improved produc-tivity in raw material collection, processing, production, environmental sustainability, compliance with market requirements, trade promotion will lead to increased sales volume and/or higher prices and thus higher income for stakeholders along the value chain.

Farming households receive support to increase their yield from the (re)planting, cultivation and harvesting of raw materials, whilst craft producing families are supported to enhance productivity by improving wor-king conditions and provision of technical skills training. Due attention will be given to creating safer and more comfortable working conditions, basic business skills, and making more efficient use of raw materials.

The programme will also create linkages with – and strengthen the capabilities of - some 50 companies in the provinces and Hanoi, and assist these to clean up produc-tion, strengthen their entrepreneurial beha-viour, find new buyers, including through trade fair participation, improve working conditions and compliance with labour and trade standards, introduce improved techno-logies and sustainable designs.

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Our Designers

Rebecca Reubens

Rebecca Reubens trained formally as an industrial designer. She now works at the intersection of design, craft and sustaina-bility. A large part of her work has been

for the development sector, with interna-tional bodies such as INBAR and UNIDO, in Europe, Asia and Africa. Her core ex-pertise is bamboo and rattan. Rebecca is currently pursuing her PhD at the Design for Sustainability subprogram at the Technical University of Delft on the links between sustainability, design and deve-lopment, through the medium of bamboo.

Rebecca stayed in Vietnam for a month ; working hands-on with seventeen SME’s linked to SPIN and UNIDO, to collabo-ratively design products that would take into consideration, the social and cultural tenets of sustainability alongside the eco-logical and economical tenets. Rebecca believes that design can make sustainabi-lity desirable, fashionable and economi-cally viable, and that renewable materials processed by small craft-based produ-cers, are the route to holistically sustai-nable products. sustainability desirable, fashionable and economically viable, and that renewable materials processed by small craft-based producers, are the route to holistically sustainable products.

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Mimi Robinson

Mimi Robinson is an international design consultant, principal of Mimi Robinson Design and founder of Bridging Cultures Through Design. As a designer and educator with extensive international experience in product design, development, export marke-ting, and artisan training, Mimi has worked in Latin America, the Caribbean, Africa Asia assisting artisan groups with the design and production of innovative products for the local and export market in ceramics, tex-tiles, and natural fibres. Known for mixing the cultural past and present surroundings, Robinson has been creating her own de-signs for retailers and manufacturers that reflect her modern perspective and use of centuries-old materials.

In addition, she has worked for the past 10 years collaborating with crafts people around the world to create products utili-zing traditional skills and local materials that help build markets for their work. Most recently, she developed Bridging Cultures Through Design, a global initiative which promotes and engages creative exchanges between students and artisan communities. Using socially responsible business practices with a respect for the natural environment, this programme celebrates and preserves artistic traditions. Mimi Robinson is a gra-duate of Rhode Island School of Design and is based in San Francisco.

Valérie Cordier

Valérie Cordier was raised in a multicultu-ral environment and developed a passion for travel and adventure from an early age. Throughout her adventures, she has recorded her thoughts and emotions in travel dairies which are in turn filled with sketches, photos and samples of materials. These precious dairies form the basis of Valerie’s creative process. Valérie began her career in fashion as a theatre costume desi-gner. Offered a professional opportunity in Vietnam in 2002, she jumped at the chance to discover Asia. Over the next nine years, she immersed herself in the local culture and exercised her imagination in design and creation of fashion accessories for both local and international brands. In 2010 Valerie decided to create her own brand : VALERIE CORDIER PARIS=>HANOI.

“When I travel, I do not follow an esta-blished program : I am always attracted to a door, a street, a name, which divert me from my original intentions. “When I design, it’s the same : I trust my natural curiosity and do not impose a plan on my creations. I rummage through my disco-veries - objects, materials, and techniques that I couldn’t have imagined existed. I search. I trawl through the most unlikely markets. I am inspired daily by the lives of people from elsewhere to create trea-sures for the people here ! I am inspired by everything : a plaque on a wall, an old building, a rock on the side of the road, packaging. “I want my designs to be an “Invitation to Travel”, a voyage through time and culture where identity, heritage and daily life merge. By being inspired by the world, I hope to create my own.”

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Marie Hautecoeur

“Since a very young age, I knew I wanted to draw for a living. At the age of 14, after discovering its diverse orientations, I chose to specialize in the Arts. Following my Bachelor of Art, I went on to specialize in design, which led me to graduate in product design five year later. Upon finalization of my studies at the age of 22, I was lucky to have been selected by the French Association BATIK for a 6-months internship in a com-pany in Hanoi that specializes in furniture design : MODULE 7. It has been a match made in heaven ! I had a good job, a lot of responsibility, a good team and Hanoi life needed to be discovered more. I was the-refore fortunate to be given the opportu-nity to continue working at MODULE 7 after my internship ended.

Now I still live in Hanoi, working as a pro-duct and interior designer at MODULE 7. Each year we try to create new objects, new atmospheres, and new material com-binations. This year we focused on a pro-duct that we had never developed before : carpets made from natural fibre. The pro-gramme brought us in contact with Viet Trang, a seagrass carpet factory. After vi-siting their workshop, we began to develop a new collection together. It was fascina-ting to use their technique and natural ma-terials, not only to create new carpets, but also to create new decorative items such

as pillows, accessories, screens, wall deco-ration and vases. My idea with this collec-tion is to keep the technical craftsmanship while adding a modern touch. My passion is to design items with a new functionality ; a concept which needs to evolve further. The collaboration between Viet Trang and Module 7’s team is a great start !”

Astrid Hauton

Astrid Hauton gratuated from l’Ensci-Les Ateliers in Paris. She has always been interested in learning and creating from other cultures and technichess. She stu-died one semester at the California College of the Arts in San Fransisco, worked at Studio Tjep in Amsterdam and did a tex-tile project with craftspeople in Burkina Faso, experimenting with the batik resist dyeing technique. She is also a member of the design collective Wonderwild, based in Paris, which follows a creative process where experimentation comes in reinforce-ment of scientific knowledge to obtain new technical and visual characters.

As she believes that innovation also comes from the process and the culture, Astrid took the opportunity to come to Vietnam and work with the SPIN pro-ject (Sustainable Product Innovation). Collaborating with different companies, her designs come from observing, analy-zing and experimenting with the material properties and the different processes of Vietnamese traditional handcrafts.

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Our Products

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NS1 NS2

NS3

NS4

NS5

NGOC SON

www.ngocson.com.vnDouble Wall LampsWoven bamboo lamps with lacquer base.

Inspired by the longstanding traditions of basket weaving found in Vietnam, this collection focuses on the artistry of double wall baskets. The mate-rial, both pliable and durable, allows for a range of weaves creating opportunities for a wide variety of patterns and designs. The forms naturally lend themselves to lighting, with the layered walls cas-ting a warm glow that produces a kaleidoscope of patterns on a wall. The lamps are elevated on colorful lacquer pedestals, creating the appea-rance, at times, that the lamps are floating above the tabletop.

Designer : Mimi Robinson

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SANDA

Tet broomsDecorative ribbons

Sweep out the old and bring in the new ! Inspired by Tet, the Vietnamese New Year, and the year of the dragon, these utilitarian brooms are transfor-med into contemporary household accessories by adding color and patterns to the existing design. Each unique broom is handmade, using the local-ly grown sustainable fiber, known as tiger grass. The decorative ribbons used to adorn the handles are found in the vibrant Hanoi local markets ad-ding warmth and whimsy to the handles, while also incorporating the local culture.

Designer : Mimi Robinson

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SA1

SA2

SA3

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THS1

THAI HOA SILK

www.thaihoasilk.com

Ribbon PillowsLocal silk

Inspired by the couture fashion techniques of Thai Hoa Silk, known throughout the world for their Vietnamese silk, this collection explores the appli-cation of silk ribbon in various widths and textures to create patterns and rhythms that will capture your attention and curiosity. Expressing sophisti-cation and playfulness, these pillows can be used in a variety of settings throughout your home.

Designer : Mimi Robinson

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THS2

THS3

THS4

THS5

THS6 THS7

Ethnic BagsMix and match silk patchwork

Using wastage and left-over fabric from clothing production is one of the main interests for Thai Hoa Silk. Our challenge was to create trendy and functional bags with whatever fabric we had left. We mixed all types of silk (taffeta, raw silk, silk linen...) into Patchwork, adding some traditional Thai woven silk and Hmong batik, to give some embossed effect to the panels. Mixing the co-lours was the key of the design. To give the bags a modern and high-end look, we add small leather details. From a big working bag to a small evening bag, many shapes are available in this collection, always in limited edition.

Designer : Valérie Cordier

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LW1

LACQUERWORLD

www.lacquerworld-fact.comHanoi WindowLacquerware Collection

Inspired by the colors of vibrant Vietnam, this collection focuses on simple color relationships, geometry and pattern to form a collection with an understated elegance. Blending traditional lacque-rware techniques with bold colors and avoiding ex-cessive ornamentation, the collection has modern appeal through its smooth and sleek surface.

Designer : Mimi Robinson

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LW3

LW5

LW4

LW6

LW7 LW8

LW9

LW10

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K1

K2 K3

K4

K5

KANA

www.kana.com.vn

Funky BagsMade from natural hemp

The main material used by Kana for this collec-tion is Hemp ; a natural material locally available and woven mostly in the North of Vietnam. The look and texture of hemp is quite raw and natu-ral. Our aim with this collection was to create a modern, classy and useful range of bags out of this artisanal fabric. This appearance is created by using modern material such as suede and leather for the details, such as handle, piping and trimmings. The lining is made from recyc-led left-over fabric and can differ from one bag to another. The shapes are classic and functio-nal, with inside compartments and pockets. Embellishment in shell button and bright wool gives a funky twist to the respective bags.

Designer : Valérie Cordier

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K6

Bags made from recycled bannersWithin the spirit of the «Greening of the United Nations” initiative, bags are created made from re-cycled, or better yet “upcycled”, UN workshop and conference banners. Many banners, or backdrops, are produced for UN workshops, conferences and trainings in Viet Nam. Normally these banners are discarded when the event is over, leading to an undesirable and environmentally harmful accumulation of waste. The repurposed banners provide for valuable input material for a fun and colourful bag collection, always exclusive and one of a kind.

Design by Kana

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K7

K8

K9

Animal Cushions and scarvesA collection which celebrates the traditional pat-terns of the women from Hoa Tien Cooperative belonging to the Thai ethnic minority in northern Viet Nam. By enlarging singular animal patterns, they are giving full exposure. The traditional pat-terns carry their own stories and culture which is handed down throughout the generations.

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VT1

VT3

VT2

VT4

Collection made from seagrassThe collection is made from natural fibres, seagrass and water hyacinth ; a sustainable and renewable natural resource which is cultivated in Nga Son in Thanh Hoa province. The natu-ral material creates employment for hundreds of families in the area which cultivate the raw material or are engaged with craft production, especially women as craft production is predo-minantly carried out by them. The collection, including a range of exclusive carpets, wall dé-cor, room dividers and mirror frames, all merge traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. The use of original simple forms and natural materials creates a peaceful and natural atmosphere ; thereby creating prospects for long-lasting sustainability, as consumers will conti-nue to enjoy them at home.

Designer : Marie Hautecoeur

VIET TRANG

www.viettranghandicraft.com

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VT5

From Seagrass MateSea grass mat

The concept behind this collection of products is to use sea grass mats, which are already a manu-factured product, as a « raw material » in order to create a range of new products. Due to the orien-tation of the sea grass fibers, the sea grass mat is a flexible material but can also be very rigid when orientated in the other direction. This special characteristic has lead to different typologies of objects. The concept behind this collection is to extend the possibilities of the flat sea grass mat by creating from it a number of three-dimensional products such as bags, baskets or small furniture for the floor…

Designer : Astrid Hauton

VT6

VT7 VT8 VT9

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Yoga mat and mat bagNatural sea-grass

This collection was developed for Viet Trang, whose strength was their large scale sea-grass mat weaving infrastructure. The concept was to focus strongly on a very simple mat, using the traditional stencilling used in Vietnamese mats as a design detail.

The product genre was sea-grass yoga mats, with very simply constructed sea-grass mat bags. Sea-grass mats are an alternative to synthetic yoga mats, and dovetail with the growing trend for al-ternate therapies for well-being. Using stencilling with very basic, contemporary motifs and colours recontextualized the mat, making it an ideal sus-tainable product.

Designer : Rebecca Reubens

VT10

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Carpet and trivetsNatural sea-grass

Two collections of products were developed for Viet Anh. The first used sea-grass waste, forming them into bundles and then joining them to form a surface. These surfaces were further used to make mats, and also table top surfaces such as trivets, runners etc. An alternative product line of sea-grass lamps was also developed. The second collection used sea-grass waste to make ropes. This rope was then intricately knotted to make mats of different sizes. The techniques are both labour intensive and use waste, making them sus-tainable production methods.

Designer : Rebecca Reubens

Viet Anh

VA1

VA2

www.vietanhseagrass.com.vn

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GR1Greencraft

www.greencraft.vn

Paper mache animal headsMade from recycled newspapers, this collection is inspired by nature and animal life. The innovative products are produced by an ethnic minority pro-ducer group in Hoa Binh province in the North of Viet Nam. Different animal heads, from rhino, deer and cat to chicken and dove make up a stun-ning and innovative collection, which would love to make their way to homes around the world.

GR2

GR4

GR3

GR5

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Cushy colourful cushionsMade by the women from Hoa Tien Cooperative, this collection of brocade woven cushions pre-sents the bright yellow of sunlight, the green of forest trees and pink and red of woodland flowers. Brocade weaving is an inseparable part of cultural and spiritual life of this Thai ethnic minority group.

GR6

GR8

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GR7

GR9

Naturally looking goodMade by household craft producers in Cam Khe, Phu Tho province, this stunning jewelry collec-tion merges traditional bamboo craftsmanship with contemporary design. By making use of waste material, an aesthetically attractive collec-tion is created that brings out the natural femini-nity of women.

GR11 GR12 GR13

GR14

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Animal AttractionWho says pets don’t having nesting syndrome ? The animal houses are made from the often dis-carded inner layers and rattan core, with the ou-ter rattan skin normally being preferred in craft production. An environmentally friendly collec-tion of pet houses creates a natural home for cats and dogs alike.

GR15 GR16

GR17

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Stationery and lightingEmbroidered handmade paper

This collection has been developed for a small group of minority producers which makes hand-made paper. They are unable to upscale paper production due to lack of raw material, and the labour-intensive process. The concept was the-refore the value add the paper itself, making it a premium product, while staying within the com-fort zone of the producers existing skill set.

Most of the group members are women, who know how to embroider and sew. This existing skill was leveraged to develop embroidered papers which could be used for several applications. The tradi-tional blue colour was used with muted colours to contemporize their cultural expression.

A range of lamp-shades and stationery was deve-loped to showcase the paper’s potential for diverse applications. All the products designed fold flat, and are assembled with buttons to extend the theme of textiles, and also to facilitate on trans-portation of the fragile paper products and save on energy consumption. This positively impacts the ecological and economic sustainability.

Designer : Rebecca Reubens

Handmade Paper

HR1

HR254 55

Folding LampsHandmade paper & bamboo lamps

These two collections of table lamps were inspired by analyzing the process of making handmade paper. By observing that each sheet of paper is composed of two layers of paper fibers led us to the idea of putting a structure between these two layers. By adding some flexible and rigid bam-boo sticks at different places between the layers, it bestows a structural property to the sheet of paper. This sheet of paper becomes a lamp which is delivered flat.The user just has to assemble the bamboo parts by inserting them into a thick ring of bamboo to build the lamp shape.

Design : Astrid Hauton

HR4

HR3

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Duc Phong

Bird cages lamps From bamboo

This collection is made from bamboo which is an inherently sustainable material. It is easily regenerated, can be raised in plantations, and is crafted by traditional craftspeople in Vietnam. The designs are based on traditional bamboo bird cages, which are commonly seen in Vietnam. These bird cage designs have been warped, to result in contemporary products that draw on the cultural capital of Vietnamese craft.

Designer : Rebecca Reubens

DP1

DP2

DP3

www.ducphong.com.vn

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Two layers lampshapeBamboo weaving

Quoc Dai Company specializes in double layer weaving, particularily -bamboo lamps.

For this collection of hanging lamps we developed different patterns of weaving in order to use fewer materials and create special light effects.

Designer : Astrid Hauton

Quoc Dai

QD1

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Rough LampsCoiling Bamboo

Made by coiling bamboo, these products are ins-pired by the aesthetic of the process.

Collaborating with Ngoc Dong Company, we experimented with different sorts of finishing in order to extend the typology of the products made from coiling bamboo. The result is a col-lection of un-polished lamp shapes which are dyed instead of painted.

This kind of finishing allows them to resist the heat from a light bulb.

Designer : Astrid Hauton

Ngoc Dong Ha Nam

ND1

www.ngocdongrattan.com

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Adress : Six Floor, Ly Thuong Kiet 20, Hanoi, Vietnam

E-Mail : pmu@greentrade.org.vn

Fax : +84 4 39393615

Website : www.greentrade.org.vn