count selection in knitting _ selection of count in knitted fabric - textile learner

5/11/2014 Count Selection in Knitting | Selection of Count in Knitted Fabric - Textile Learner

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Count Selection in Knitting | Selection of Count in Knitted

Fabric

Count Selection in Knitting:

Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used to produce fabric of different

grammage. There is also a need to calculate optimum production of knitting machines. It is the job of knitting

manager to do certain calculation for proper use of machines and production of fabric according to the

demands of the customer.

Most suitable count for knitting machines:

As we know needle hook has to take yarn to convert it into a loop and finally latch has to close the needle

hook so that loop is properly held by the needle hook and ultimately this helps in passing new loop through

the previously held loop. It is clear from this explanation that there should be a proper balance between

needle hook size and the thickness of the yarn or filament. If the yarn is thicker than needle hook then there

will a chance that needle hook will not able to hold this loop and consequently there will be a small hole in the

fabric. If the situation is reverse, means yarn is thinner than the size of the needle hook then the fabric

produced will look like a net. Both situations are not wanted. This situation demands a balance between

needle hook size and count of yarn. It is worth to note that needle hook size depends upon the machine

guage. Furthermore for different garments, fabric of different grammage is required. Every time knitter has to

decide about the yarn count. There are many ways for the selection of proper count. In the following lines we

will discuss most common methods to select count for different machines of different guage. It is also important

to note that selection of yarn counts also depends upon the machine manufactures and type of machines,

like, single and double knit machine. However a general guideline will be given hereunder.

As a thumb rule knitting experts prefer to use such knitting machine whose gauges is near to count of yarn

(English count) i.e. for 20-gaugemachines most suitable yarn count is 20s. This rule is has certain limitations,

like, for 28-gauge yarn of 26s to 30s is most suitable. But for very fine counts this rule is not applicable and

also machines have maximum gauge 32. Normally fine counts are not used as such rather they are make

double, like count 60s double, which means that net count is near to 30s. And this 60 double count is suitable

for 30-gauge machine.

To solve this problem some authors have suggested following formulas.

For single Knitting Machine ,

Suitable count = G*G/18

For Double knitting machine ,

Suitable count= G*G/8.4

Where G is gauge of knitting machine

Some knitting machine manufacturers suggest a range of yarn count for their machine. There is another way

to solve this problem and that is to take help from old record. Every firm is producing many types of fabrics

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and on the basis of experience they develop a database for ready reference. In the following line we give a

table for guidance (table is under construction). One can get a ready reference from the table to produce

fabric of certain grammage. We are also giving expected width of fabric after wet processing. This table can

provide just a reference. Knitters have to decide by themselves after doing a trial production, since there are

many more factors, which can affect yarn and gauge selection process.

Knitting Machine Parameters:

Every knitting machine is made to fulfill certain demands of the customer. There are number of

characteristics of machine which are intimated by the machine manufacturers while delivering the machine to

customers/users. It is helpful for the user to be well aware about these parameters. Furthermore machine

specifications are given in different unit. We will explain these parameters and will also give the conversion

factors to convert parameters from one system to other.

Machine Gauge:

As per Oxford Dictionary the word “gauge” is a noun and as well as verb. It is used to measure level of any

thing or for an instrument to measure width, length or height of any thing. In knitting it is used to express the

number of needle in a unit length of the needle bed. This needle bed may flat or circular. In double knit

circular machine it is used for cylinder and as well as dial. Generally gauge is defined as number of needles

per inch. According to German standard DIN 60917 (Iyer et al1995) alphabet “E “ is used to denote knitting

machine gauge.

Machine Pitch:

As per German DIN 62125 (Iyer et al1995) the notation “gauge” is to be avoided in the future. Rather they

prefer to use notation “pitch” for comparison purpose. Machine Pitch means the distance between the centres

of two neighbouring needles. It is denoted with small “t”. It is given in mm.

Count Calculation on GSM

F/Type Equation

Single Jersey Count= (-0.141) GSM + 50.22

Pique Count= (-0.146) GSM + 57.16

Double Lacost Count= (-0.167) GSM + 64.36

1×1 Rib Count= (-0.123) GSM + 54.57

Lycra 1×1 Rib Count= (-0.119) GSM + 59.12

Lycra 2×2 Rib Count= (-0.108) GSM + 56.62

Interlock Count= (-0.206) GSM + 80.56

Some Example: Count Selection on Finished GSM

F/Type F/GSM Count S/L G/GSM GSM% Feeder Number

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S/J 130-

150

30s 2.65-2.9 110-

120

80% to

85%

1 cm = 18/20 Feeder for Single Jersey

1 cm = 28/32 Feeder for Single Lacost,

S/Pique

1 cm = 30/34 Feeder for Double Lacost,

D/pique

160-

180

26s 2.7-2.9 125-

135

78% to

80%



S/Pique


D/pique

175-

190

24s 2.75-

2.95

135-

145

76% to

77%



S/Pique


D/pique

190-

210

20s 2.9-3.2 150-

165

76% to

79%



S/Pique


D/pique

P/interlock 180-

210

40s 1.55-

1.75

130-

150

72% 1 cm = 32/36 Feeder

210-

230

34s 1.65-

1.85

150-

170

72% 1 cm = 30/34 Feeder

230-

250

30s 1.65-

1.85

170-

190

74% 1 cm = 28/32 Feeder

26s 72%

24s 72%

1×1 Rib 170-

190

30s 2.65-

2.85

125-

130

1 cm = 17/18 Feeder

195-

225

26s 2.7-2.95 140-

155

1 cm = 16/17 Feeder

230-

250

24s 2.7-2.95 160-

175

1 cm = 16/17 Feeder

Author of This Article:

Saidul Karim Riaz

B.Sc. in Textile Technology



Web: www.skriaz.com

http://www.skriaz.com/

count selection in knitting _ selection of count in knitted fabric - textile learner

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