Costume FinalJustine English

Bustle• A ladies

undergarment that assists in supporting the top layers of fabric in the back of a woman’s dress often in the 19th century.

• Currently, bustles are done using buttons or ties to hold up fabric.

Braces• Modernly knows as

“suspenders” are worn typically with men’s pants. Originally worn in 18th century to hold up breeches. Worn ever since to keep men from the embarrassment of their pants falling down.

Clocking• Around 16th

century it was a type of pattern that is embroidered onto socks or hose, runs vertically up leg. Said to remotely resembles the hands of a clock hand from a distance, thus the name.

• Not always worn for show, but for the wearer.

Cloche• A fitted woman’s

hat created in 1908, that became popular in the 1920’s to 1930’s.. Cloche is the French word for “belle”, and refers to the bell-like shape. Usually made of felt and worn low on forehead.

• Repopularized in 1960’s and often reused.

Codpiece• 15th and 16th

century piece of clothing that was a covering for a man’s crotch, and actually assisted in accentuating the area. Held by buttons or ties. Still used in leather clothing.

• *Predates zipper.

Fillet• Headband or

ribbon used to keep hair up, hold headpiece, or decorate hair. Used as early as Greek and Egyptian culture, approximataly 800 BC.

Crinoline• Stiff petticoat or a

skirt shaped metal frame to support weight of a woman’s dress into the correct position or shape.

Doric Chiton• Worn in 5th and 6th

century by men and women in Greece. Made of larger woolen fabric, pleated and draped. Pinned at shoulders. Upper edge is draped to hand over breast. One leg left open.

• Dyed, striped patterns, and fancy borders were popular.

Ionic Chiton• Rectangular fabric,

lighter fabric than wool, often dyed bright colors and embroidered. Garment was fuller and able to make more folds. Does not drape in overblouse but pinned to shoulders and arms.

Hobble Skirt• Long skirt with a

narrow hem worn around the early 1900’s. Sometimes has a restrictive piece of fabric, braided rope, or other material that is relatively tight below the knees.

Norfolk Jacket• C. 1860’s. Single

breasted jacket with box pleats, very loose fit but belted. Originally a shooting jacket so that arms and elbows were easy to move.

Peplos• C. 500 Bc- Tube-

like fabric worn by women in Greece. Belted at middle.

• Standard for Greek women.

Fedora• Hat that is creased

lengthwise and pinched at sides and front.

• Popular in the late 1800’s

• Originally for women, but became designed for men

Petticoat• Woman’s

undergarment to be worn under skirts.

• 16th to 18th century

• Worn for warmth and to give extra shape

Pillbox• Military Headgear-

uses chin strap• Popular in 1960’s

for women after influence of Mrs. Kennedy

• Small round hat worn towards back of head

Himation• Used in Ancient

Greece . It is a heavy drape put over the chiton, works as a cloak.

Pumpkin Hose• Ballooned pants

that were very short and full. Cover upper thigh to knee giving a rounded look to hips.

Parti Colored• Piecing many

different fabrics into one outfit. Predominant color broken by patches.

Inverness• Loose belted coat

with a cape with a close fitting round collar.

Jabot• Originally the frill

and ruffles at front of shirt. Evolved into neckwear with lace and ruffles pinned on neckband or collar. 1650 and on.

Leg o’ Mutton• 1890’s sleeve that

grew in volume over the years. Tapers from one large end to small end.

Mantle• Loose cloak like

garment worn over clothing in 12th century on. Similar to a cape and worn by both sexes.

Merry Widow• 1955 corselet

named after 1905 operetta. Had demi cups and shorter girdle. Had slim panels of black elastic yarn netting with heavy zipper hidden behind hook and eyes and all lined in nylon voile.

Mob Cap• Round

gathered/pleated bonnet to cover hair, with ribbon and frilled brim usually. 18th century.

Morning Coat• 19th century- used

for horseback riding in mornings before replacing frock cock as formal wear. Single breasted coat with front parts meeting at middle with one button, then curving to two back tails. Can be grey or black with pointed lapels.

Balaclava• Originally 1800’s

headgear to keep British troops warm in winter war. Covers face and neck, leaving eye area open. Modernly for winter sport protection or work protection.

Chlamys• Ancient Greek

cloak made of wool with decorative border frequently. Originally wrapped around waist but later wrapped over elbows. For young messengers or soldiers only garment they wore.

Bodice• 16th to 18th

century women’s article of clothing that cover neck to waist, or the upper portion of the dress. Originally made of two pieces of fabric laced together.

Cummerbund• 1600’s adopted

from tribes. Sash around the waist, often pleated, that is worn with a single breasted jacket. Part of modern black tie male wardrobe.

Fibulae• Broach often made

of bronze or iron, coated in enamal and often have precious gems.

• Originated around 14th century BC and used in Roman and Greek cultures and still mentioned briefly in Medieval times

Frock Coat• Victorian men’s

coat that was knee length and double breasted. Has reverse collar and lapels- cut seperate and a tight fit at waist. 18th century.

Diadem• Ornamental

headband, or crown

• Jeweled ornament in half crown worn by women and placed over forehead

• Other headwear of royalty can be considered Diadem, such as Greek and Roman rulers.

• Dates around 100 BC on.

Hennin• 1428 and on, was a

woman’s cone or steeple shaped headress. Often around 12 inches, but as high as 36 in tall and tilted back at an angle.

Empire Line• Beginning in late

18th century, shape of a woman’s dress. Has a fitted bodice ending under breasts, with long and loose gathered skirts

Kolpos• Blousing of tunic,

chiton, or tunic in ancient Greece. Extra length of fabric hangs down and is folded.

Doublet• 15th century men’s

close fitted jacket that was hip or waist length and worn over shirt or drawers. Often left open in a “V”.

Peplum• Flared ruffle

attached at waistline

• OR• Garment worn in

Ancient Greece that went over shoulder and draped at waist.

Petasus• Wide brimmed hat

worn by Ancient Greeks and Romans with broad brim.

Fichu• Large

handkerchief or shawl like garment to cover low neckline of bodice in 18th century.

Gauntlet• Style of glove that

extends to cover forearm. Some flexible and some used as armor in 15th century and Middle Ages.

Plus Four• Breechers or

trousers that go four inches below the knee( added four inches to knickerbockers.) Easier to move and associated with sporting in 1860’s and on.

Godet• Skirt that has

inserts at seams near bottom of hem to add volume and flare, as well as increase movement associated with the 19th century.

Redingote• Type of coat

– Women:• 18th cent used on

horseback originally bulky. Towards 19th century tailored jackets worn

• Newer form is tight at torso, belted, and flares at bottom.– Men:

• 18th to 19th century long coat, fitted frock coat.

Reticule• A handbag that has

a draw string from 18th to 19th century. Usually made of beading or brocade.

Snood• Modernly is a tubular

neck scarf similar to a close fitted hood over back of head

• Originated in the Middle Ages as a hair net type of covering. Connects over crown and fits looser at neck to hold hair.

• Popular again in 1860’s-’70’s

• Popular during WWII

Teddy• Female

undergarment that covers torso and crotch in one piece.

• Typically loose and sheer

• Type of lingerie• Originated in 1910

as a camiknicker• Reappeared in

1990’s as lingerie

Toga• Ancient Roman

traditional garment.

• Cloth around 20 ft long wrapped around body and made of wool. Was to be worn over linen tunic.

• After 2nd cent BC only Roman male citizens could wear toga

Tricorne• 1700-1800 style of

hat• Triangular shape-

broad brim that was turned up and pinned at sides and back

• Used for regular dress and military dress– Often worn with

point front for civilians

– Military may turn to left or right for gun use

Union Suit• One piece

undergarment• Originally

designed for women in 19th century to be less restrictive, then soon adopted by men

• Buttons up front with optional flap over behind.

Zoot Suit• Men’s suit with

high waist, wide pant leg, tight cuffs, and have a long coat with wide lapels and padded shoulders.