costing .ppt
DESCRIPTION
COSTTRANSCRIPT
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Cost estimation of finishes
Fabric and garment finishing
ByAyush GuhaJitendra Pal SinghP. TejasviShailja Murthy
Disclaimer: The prices given here are purely an estimate as the industry does not reveal the costing methods in the websites or otherwise.
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INTRODUCTION- COST ESTIMATION OF FINISHESIntroduction
The properties of synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibres. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic's require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already have these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation. The use of 100% synthetic textiles
Finishes for natural fibers.
Finishes for Synthetic fibers.
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Finishes given to natural fibers
Mercerisation.
Crease Resist Finish.
Singeing.
Calendaring.
Sanforizing or Pre-shrinking.
Anti-microbial Finish.
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Finishes for Synthetic Fibers
Heat Setting.
Stiffening and filling Process.
Hydrophilic Finishes.
Anti-pilling finish.
Anti-static finish.
Non-slip Finishes.
Fire Resistant or Flame Retardant Finish.
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Chemical Finishes
Resin Finishes: Used on cotton or rayon, Keeps fabric smooth after washing and drying with little or no ironing needed
So-fieners : Generally used with resins to improve the way the fabric feels. May cause fastness problems
Soil Resistant Finishes: Used extensively on carpets and upholstery
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Mechanical Finishes
Heat setting: Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing
polyester, nylon, or triacetate, Not effective on cotton or rayon.
Raising: Two main types 1. Napping 2.Sueding
Shearing : Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularly
napped fabrics, to a uniform height
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Heat setting
A. Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate
B. Not effective on cotton or rayon
C. May be performed in fabric form or garment form
D. May cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to
dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing
COST:10-15Rs more per meter
PARAMETERS: Energy for steam, tempaerature, pressure, etc.
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2. RAISING
There are mainly two types of raising. They are;
1. NAPPING: Using wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber ends to the surface
COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter
2. SUEDING: Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.) to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparentshade change. Such special type of raised surface fabric is corduroy
COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter
Raising
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III. SHEARING
A. Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularlynapped fabrics, to a uniform height
B. This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and alsoreduces the pilling tendency
C. Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern effects on the surface
COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter
Shearing
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IV. CALENDERING
Calendering is a final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by passing it between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Luster increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendering is applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens and silks, and various man-made fabrics. It is usually an essential process at textile processing units.
1. SIMPLE CALENDERING: 3. SCHREINER CALENDERING:COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter
2. FRICTIONAL CALENDERING: 4. CIRE CALENDERING:COST: 5-10 Rs more per meter COST: 10-15 Rs more per meter
Calendering
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DECATISING
In decatising, the wool fabric is rolled up onto a perforated decatising drum under controlled tension. The fabric is steamed for up to ten minutes and then cooled down by drawing ambient air through the fabric roll. The piece is then reversed and steamed again in order to ensure that an even treatment is achieved.There are several quite different types of decatising;
batch decatising continuous decatising wet decatising machinesdry decatising machines
COST: 10-15 Rs more per meter
Decasting
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SANFORIZING "COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE“)
It is a mechanical finishing technique for producing cotton fabric with less than 1% shrinkage during laundering.
Damp fabric is placed on a taut felt blanket or rubber belt that passes around a feed-in roller. The fabric is forced to stretch at the outside curve of the blanket where it is ironed by an electrically heated metal shoe. The blanket then reverses its direction around a steam-heated drum. At this point the blanket surface is shortened and the fabric adhering to it is forced to conform with the blanket of the compress and is dried.
COST: 1-5 Rs more per meter
Sanforizing "Compressive Shrinkage“
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Costing Chemical Finishes
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Introduction
Can be defined as use of chemicals on fabric to achieve desired properties
Usually they take place before garment making and after coloration or dyeing
It can be durable or non durable Mostly done on emulsions, water
being the base solution.
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Parameters for costThe type of fabric we are using
The chemicals used
The labor involved
The time required
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Factors effecting cost of finishingProperty Pick up Effect on cost
Fiber type Higher wet pickup with hydrophyllic fibers
Increased cost for more fine fibers
Yarn construction More pick up with low twist or open yarns
Cost increases for yarns with more twist
Fabric construction More pickup in open weave Tightly woven fabric take more dip time therby increasing cost
Wettability
Pressure of squeeze rolls Higher tempreture lower pickup Increase in pressure inccreases cost
Length of immersion time More immersion time more is cost
Viscosity of emulsion Higher viscosity, higher pickup
Tempreture of the emulsion Tempreture changes with viscosity and pressure
Higher tempreture increases cost
Concentration of emulsion Higher concentration leads to less dip time
More concentrated solution are more costly
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Pricing of chemicals based on function
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FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
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Functional finishes or special purpose finishes are applied to textile to enhance its performance in a specific area.
Although these finishes do not alter the appearance of textiles they do address some consumer problem or make the textile substrate suitable for a specific purpose.
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Table 1: Classification of functional finish
1. Stabilization : Shrinkage control
a. Relaxation shrinkage and finishes – e.g. Sanforisingb. Shape retention finishes – Durable press finishes
2. Appearance retention finishes
a. Soil and stain release finishesb. Abrasion resistance finishesc. Anti slip finishesd. Fume-fading-resistance finishese. Surface or back coating e.g. Carpet back coatingf. Light stabilizing finishesg. Pilling resistance finishes
3. Comfort related finishesCost:
a. Porosity control [water proof] finishesb. Water absorbent finishesc. Anti static finishesd. Fabric softening [Enzyme/bio finishing]
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4. Biological control finishes
a. Insect and moth proof finishesb. Rot proof finishesc. Antimicrobial finishesd. Mould and Mildew control finishese. Microencapsulated finishes
5. Safety related finishes
a. Flame retardant finishesb. Liquid barrier finishes [protection from hazard liquor]c. Light reflecting finishes
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The challenges facing the finishing
industry have intensified in the last one decade, with finishers faced with the new task of striving to survive in this global and highly competitive market.
Consumers demand more durability, more functionality and more cost effectiveness from their clothing.
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INSISTENCE ON VALUE FOR MONEY
1: Consumer is the king 2: Value for money concept 3: Markets looking for constant change in the product mix The normal life cycle of cotton, which was only up to finished fabric, in the early 1960s, is now extended to branded and specialty products
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Finish name Cost increment
Anti slip finishes Rs. 10-15 per meter
Soil and stain release finishes Rs 15-20 per meter
Abrasion resistance finishes Rs 12-15 per meter
Porosity control [water proof] finishes Rs 15-22 per meter
Anti static finishes Rs 12-15 per meter
Flame retardant finishes Rs 15- 20 per meter
Fragrance finishes Rs 5-10 per meter
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THANK YOU!