cosmetic world aug 22, 2011

Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws. 197

BULLETIN

aUGUsT 22, 2011 Vol. XLVII / No. 14 www.cosmeticworld.com

Cosmetic World®

ELEMENTS SHOWCASE HOSTS FRAGRANCE FORUM

GIVENCHY UNVEILS MYSTERY OF DAHLIA NOIR

LA PRAIRIE INTRODUCES CELLULAR POWER

CHARGE NIGHT

TPR ANNOUNCES NEW APPOINTMENTSTPR Holdings has appointed three new executives to its management team. Ron Gee,

MCDONALD TO ENTER CIRCLE OF CHAMPIONS

The Fragrance Foundation’s 12th annual Circle of Champions will honor Camille McDonald,

MST JOINS ACMGAtlantic Coast Media Group (aCMG) announced the acquisition of Sarah McNamara’s Miracle Skin Transformer (MsT), which

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BENEFIT TO OPEN NYC FLAGSHIP Benefit Cosmetics, the free-spirited b e a u t y b r a n d k n ow n f o r i t s creative packag-ing and instant beauty solutions,

In spring 2011, La Prair ie introduced a potent elixir to help awaken the power of the skin—Cellular Power Infusion. Now, to add to this revolu-tionary anti-aging line, the brand is launching a nighttime treatment—Cellular Power Charge Night—that combines Retinol, a skin renewal peptide, oxygen and more to recharge the skin’s cells and reduce lines, wrinkles and age spots during sleep.

“During the night, our body is in repair, renew and replenish mode; this is true for the skin as well,” said Lynne Florio, president of La Prairie. “Our scientists have created Cellular Power Charge Night to take advantage of this resting status to help our customers fight aging around the clock. after all, there’s no rest for the weary. . . or the skin.”


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Elements Showcase and W magazine hosted their first-ever fragrance forum to discuss the theme of “Fragrance as Design” in New York City on august 16. The Elements showcase—a unique exhibition that presents elite fragrances to industry insiders and connects niche companies with leading buyers and key media—brought together a panel of fragrance and design experts to touch upon a variety of topics from sources of inspiration to bloggers.

Moderator Jane Larkworthy, beauty director at W, welcomed guests to the

YOUNG FRIENDS OF THE DREAMBALL

The Young Fr iends of the DreamBall hosted a cocktail party at the Clarins Skin Spa in

Clarins’ Erin Cohen and American Cancer Society’s Kari Siegel with Louanne Roark

of Personal Care Products Council.


Dahlia Noir, the first fragrance to be developed by Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci, embodies a mysterious and romantic woman. Blending thoughts of inspiration from his cultural background in his native Italy, Tisci brings a theatrical sensibility to his interpretations of neoclassicism and the ambivalence associated with beauty. The Black Dahlia, a novel by James Ellroy published in 1987, served as inspiration for the fragrance—the olfactory aura of an imaginary woman, a seductive black angel, a couture heroine emanating a dark softness.

“Dahl ia Noi r takes Givenchy fragrance in a new couture direction,” said Nicholas Munafo, president of


Anthropologie’s Melissa Green, Susanne Kaufmann’s Bea von Thurn und Taxis, Coty’s

Ruth Sutcliffe, Takasago’s Patricia Choux, Douglas Hannant and Jane Larkworthy of W.

198 AUGUST 22, 2011 COSMETIC WORLD

Debra Davisadvertising directorext. [email protected]

Jennifer Druckerart directorext. [email protected]

Eric Michelsonphotographer

John G. Ledespublisher & editorext. [email protected]

George Ledespresident & ceoext. [email protected]

Brittany Burhopexecutive editorext. [email protected]

Debbie Wardmanaging editorext. [email protected]

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COSMETIC WORLD (ISSN0589 8447) has been published since 1966 for the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry, its manufacturers and retailers. COSMETIC WORLD is published bi-weekly except for the 1st week in January and July, by Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016 (212) 840-8800. Subscriptions: Domestic $175 one year, $325 two years, Foreign-(air mail) $250 one year, $450 two years. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to COSMETIC WORLD, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016

For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com

ELEMENTS SHOWCASE HOSTS FRAGRANCE FORUMforum and showcase, or “olfactory factory,” as she described it.

“The fragrance category needs to be encouraged, supported and celebrated, and events like these are a step in the right direction,” said Larkworthy.

Panelists included Patricia Choux of Takasago; Melissa Green of Anthropologie; fashion designer Douglas Hannant; Ruth Sutcliffe of Coty; and Bea von Thurn und Taxis of Susanne Kaufmann.

“Inspiration comes from having an open mind and curiosity,” said Choux. “I’m also inspired by food and traveling, open markets and exhibitions. The last exhibit from Alexander McQueen—that was a wow moment for me.”

In terms of mass vs. prestige, Ms. sutcliffe and Mr. Hannant gave varied opinions.

“I know my customer very well, and I know her taste level,” said Hannant, who introduced his first fragrance

in the spring. “she wants something special, she wants to stand out. Mass has hit its peak, and I strongly believe in quality over quantity.”

Ms. sutcliffe added, “I understand the needs of people in the U.s. and around the world who want to smell great, but can only afford a $19.99 fragrance in the mass market. I love and appreciate the niche market, and I know there is a yearning to smell unique and feel special, but there needs to be an option for the shopper

that can only spend so much.”To touch on the topic of blogging, a majority of the

panelists contributed positive remarks. “Bloggers have been very positive for the anthropologie

brand,” said Green. “They are more of a marketing vehicle for us right now, rather than a source of feedback on design, but nonetheless they are honest and a key to our growth moving forward.”

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Elements Showcase’s Frederick Bouchardy and Ulrich Lang (r.) with Liz Morina and

Jane Larkworthy of W.

Bond No. 9’s Laurice Rahme. The Fragrance Foundation’s Lyn Leigh and Amy Rubin.

Parlux Fragrances’ Vivian Schlogel and Patrick Etchaubard of Gerresheimer.

FIT’s Virginia Bonofiglio with Nicolas Mirzayantz and Veronique Ferval.

Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics’ Joe Garces and Anatole Flahault.

Thanks for 100 years of inspiration!

keep this spirit alive!we promise to

As we celebrate our big anniversary, we thank all the rebels and visionaries who inspired us along the way.

You allchallenged the status quo, fought the conventional,

rejected the norm.

Wilbur and 0rville Wright (1867/1871) * Albert Einstein (1879) * Coco Chanel (1883) * Frank Lloyd Wright (1890)

Walt Disney (1901) * Salvador Dali (1904) * Josephine Baker (1906) * Edith Piaf (1915) * J.D. Salinger (1919)

Marlon Brando (1924) * Marilyn Monroe (1926) * Andy Warhol (1928) * Stanley Kubrick (1928) * Frank 0. Gehry (1929)

Steve McQueen (1930) * James Dean (1931) * Sophia Loren (1934) * Yves Saint Laurent (1936) * Bruce Lee (1940)

Pele (1940) * Vivienne Westwood (1941) * Bob Dylan (1941) * Jimi Hendrix (1942) * Muhammad Ali (1942) * Lou Reed (1942)

Jim Morrison (1943) * Bob Marley (1945) * David Bowie (1947) * Twiggy (1949) * Richard Branson (1950)

Jean-Paul Gaultier (1952) * Steve Jobs (1955) * The Beatles (1957) * Madonna (1958) * The Mini Cooper (1959)

The Rolling Stones (1962) * Ferran Adria (1962) * Quentin Tarantino (1963) * The Clash (1976) * Nirvana (1987)

munich paris new york guangzhou sydney shanghai são paulo milan amsterdam hong kong moscow manchester

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NEWPRODUCTS


LA PRAIRIE INTRODUCES CELLULAR POWER

CHARGE NIGHT

according to La Prairie, although Retinol has been used in many products over the years, the use of an oxygen carrier with it is new. The brand’s scientists knew that an optimum level of oxygen in the skin would enhance the cell turnover process stimulated by Retinol, but stability issues between the oxygen and Retinol have prevented the merging of the two in past formulas. Now, these same scientists have resolved the issue by placing the two ingredients in separate chambers, side by side, which allows the consumer to control the release of each and blend them together before application.

“The skin needs oxygen to look and perform at its youngest and its best, and i t ’s known that oxygellevels drop as the skin ages,” said Holly Genovese, vice president of training and retail marketing for La Prairie. “One of the mechanisms for recharging the skin is enhancing the oxygen level, which in turn supports the cell turnover process. This is accomplished in Cellular Power Charge Night via an oxygen transfer agent called Perfluorodecalin (PFD), which secures oxygen from the atmosphere, stores it and delivers it to the skin as needed, therefore supporting the skin’s self-regulation.”

The formula also includes a hydration system to address the possibility of the skin becoming drier as a result of the stimulating effect of Retinol. Other ingredients such as grapefruit cell extract and Vitamin E offer anti-oxidant protection, and sunflower seed oil helps to maintain the skin’s lipid barrier overnight.

Cellular Power Charge Night will be available in september at select specialty and department stores and laprairie.com, and will be priced at $475.00 for 1.35 oz.

GIVENCHY UNVEILS MYSTERY OF DAHLIA NOIR

LVMH Fragrance Brands. “Like Riccardo Tisci’s fashion creations, Dahlia Noir strikes a fine balance between femininity, sophistication, and darkness. It is the quintessence of the Givenchy style.”

Perfumer François Demachy dipped into Riccardo Tisci’s imagination to create a floral chypre based on rose, iris and mimosa, and enriched with utterly contemporary woody facets of sandalwood and patchouli. Its powdery notes evoke maternal gentleness and a traditional vision of femininity to convey a sentimental quality.

The bottle, designed by Fabian Baron, adds to the mystery of the scent as it never completely reveals its identity. The name ‘Dahlia Noir’ is only discovered on the back side of the cap, mimicking a secret inscription on a silver metal plaque.

“The bottle seems timeless—solid yet delicate like the fragrance it contains, l ike the Dahlia Noir woman herself. she is multi-faceted and a bit complicated,” said Munafo. “The juxtaposition of the sharpness of the bottle and the cap against the nude juice express the deliberate contradiction of the fragrance.”

Fashion photographers Mert Alas

and Marcus Piggott created the advertising imagery—Italian model Mariacarla Boscono in a black chiffon dress designed by Riccardo Tisci to capture the spirit of an intriguing flower.

“Mariacarla Boscono embodies Dahlia Noir, as she is the ideal woman, a perfect blend of femininity and mystery,” said Munafo. “Riccardo Tisci’s long-standing friendship with Mariacarla is evident in this fragrance as it embodies all that he is known for.”

Dahlia Noir eau de parfum is available this month exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, and is priced at $90.00 for 1.7 oz. and $110.00 for 2.5 oz.

BEBEbebe gold

Category: Fragrance Launch: august 2011Claims: Inspired by the glamour and mystery of the bebe woman, this alluring eau de parfum is a radiant blend of fresh florals, sensual sandalwood and golden amber. Key Notes: Pink pepper, juniper berries, Egyptian jasmine, and opoponax. Stats: .33 oz., $12.00; 1.7 oz., $49.50; 3.4 oz., $65.00

FENDI PARFUMSFan di FENDI

Category: FragranceLaunch: august 2011Claims: This modern and irresistible fragrance is fresh, luminous, sensual and addictive, and encompasses all the values and elegance of the House of Fendi. Key Notes: Pear, blackcurrant accord, Damascena rose and patchouli from Indonesia.Stats: 1.7 oz., $76.00; 2.5 oz., $92.00


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201AUGUST 22, 2011 COSMETIC WORLD

ESSIE’S BRAND NEW BAG FOR FALLEssie’s fall collection, on counter this month, consists of six rich, creamy shades from camel to merlot that pay homage to the glorious world of gorgeous handbags, classic sophisti-cation and a return to ladylike glamour. Reminiscent of autumn, with complex colors that are a throwback to the fashions of the 40’s and 50’s, the new collection was inspired by the clean lines and simple elegance of post-war styles—classic shades reinvented for modern times.

“The accessories that you wear and carry say so much about who you are and who you want to be,” said Essie Weingarten, founder of Essie Cosmetics. “The same is true with your manicure and your nail

color. The first thing a person notices when they meet you for the first time are: your shoes, your handbag and your nails.”

BENEFIT TO OPEN NYC FLAGSHIPis bringing a piece of its san Francisco base to New York City. The tri-level flagship boutique, set to open in soho in september, will aim to give customers the truest Benefit brand experience, surrounded by laughter and fun.

“We wanted to bring the feel of the original san Francisco beauty

shop into our Benefit Boutique soho,” said Jean Ford, co-founder of Benefit Cosmetics. “It’s very much a girl’s locker room atmosphere—where beauty banter thrives and laughter is the best cosmetic. It’s where you and your girlfriends drop in for your one stop beauty shop—makeup and brows.”

The new boutique—2,000 sq. ft. including the Beauty Loft which will be used for special events and training—will have a modern feel with a nod to the past, and will be furnished with cream-colored cabriolet leg tables, makeup-stuffed armoires and crystal chandeliers. Hand-painted wallpaper in pink, black and white

will be accented with rosy neon florals and a sleek tiled floor.

“The Benefit Boutique soho will be a hotspot for on-the-spot “make-uppers,” tips and tricks, and our famed instant beauty solutions,” said Jane Ford, co-founder of Benefit Cosmetics. “Customers can drop in anytime for our world famous ‘signature’ brow

shaping technique service, plus lash and brow tinting, body and facial waxing and airbrush tanning. Benefit has been arching brows for over 30 years, and through our Boutiques and Brow Bars we are the largest employer of aestheticians in the world.”

The brand now has over 400 Brow Bars in select department stores and Ulta stores around the U.s., and 16 Boutiques outside the U.s. (12 in the U.K., 2 in Hong Kong, 1 in China and 1 in australia). This fall, Benefit will have 17 Boutiques in the U.s., which includes the new space in New York City.


NEWPRODUCTS

SEPHORA cOllEctIONMoonshadow Baked Palette

In The Nude

Category: MakeupLaunch: august 2011Claims: This gorgeous palette of ten high-payoff, sultry, nude eyeshadows features a formula that is easy to blend and delivers cosmic amounts of “diamond dust” shimmer that adhere to skin to provide long- lasting, sophisticated shine.Stats: $28.00■CW

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Jean and Jane Ford, co-founders of Benefit Cosmetics.


BULLETIN

CIRCLE OF CHAMPIONS

president of brand development and merchandising for Bath & Body Works. The event will take place on October 4 at the st. Regis in New York City.

MST JOINS ACMG

will join the beauty company’s roster of brands including Hydroxatone, Keranique, Luminique and DNA.

Sarah McNamara Beauty New York will be a new division of aCMG that will house the Miracle skin Transformer line, which is set to launch in Sephora next month.

“What sarah has been able to accomplish with MsT over the last 18 months is remarkable,” said Andrew Surwilo, co-founder/CEO of aCMG. “Our goal is to maintain the brand’s distinctiveness and augment its reach with our unique distribution model and national media campaigns.”

TPR’S NEW APPOINTMENTS

formerly of L’Oréal, has been named chief financial officer for all TPR brands and wil l report to TPR president Brian Robinson and COO Stuart Litman. Marni Cassuto has been appointed transition director for Freeze 24▪7, a brand that she worked with under its previous ownership as head of the marketing department, and will also report to Mr. Robinson. Elizabeth Kopelman has been named vice president of international sales. she joins the team from Parfums de Coeur where she led the international sales department, and will now report to TPR international president, Nicholas Ratut.




CAROL’S DAUGHTEROlivia Scott-Perkins has been named chief marketing officer of Carol’s Daughter. CEO Richard Dantas tapped Ms. scott-Perkins to drive the brand’s evolution across branding, design, advertising and product development.

ELIZABETH ARDENDoug Huffmyer, formerly of Avon Products, has joined Elizabeth Arden as vice president and creative director.

NYX PROFESSIONAL MAKEUPScott Friedman has been appointed CEO of NYX Professional Makeup. Mr. Friedman brings more than 15 years of industry experience to the role, formerly held by Toni Ko, who will transition to founder and chief creative director.

PEOPLE & PROMOTIONS

MAllY BEAUtYUndermakeup Perfector Duo

Category: MakeupLaunch: august 2011Claims: available in two shades—peach light and peach deep—this 2-step pre-makeup duo enhances the face to create the

perfect canvas with a corrector pen to eliminate dark areas, and a high-lighter pen to illuminate key areas. Stats: $29.00

KORRESWild Rose Mineral

Illuminating Powder

Category: MakeupLaunch: august 2011Claims: This ultra-sheer powder illuminates the face with a skin-perfecting veil of reflective minerals, imparting a natural lit-from-within glow and highlighting facial features for a flawless finish.Stats: $18.00

NEWPRODUCTS

LESLIE WELLER PASSES ON

Leslie Weller passed away on august 2 at the age of 74. Ms. Weller worked at Elizabeth Arden from 1972-2001, and became the company’s public relations director in 1983. KL by Karl Lagerfeld, Red Door , and the original fragrance for Fendi, were a few of the launches that she worked on during her tenure at Elizabeth arden.

she is survived by her husband, Charles; brother, Donald Gould; niece, amy Callahan and nephew, Chris Gould.

YOUNG FRIENDS

New York City to spread the word about the first-ever DreamBall after Dark party. Event chairmen, Erin Cohen of Clarins, Liana Engel of Guerlain, and Stephanie and Jesse Newhouse of Condé Nast, invite guests to join them at Cipriani 42nd street following

the DreamBall for cocktails, desser t and dancing to the music of DJ Harley Viera-Newton.

Tickets are $175.00 per

person, and all proceeds will benefit the Look Good…Feel Better program of the Personal Care Products Council


and the American Cancer Society. “This event is a great way for

young people in the beauty industry and beyond to get involved and generate awareness for an important cause,” said Cohen. “Not only will it raise crucial funds, but it’s going to be a fantastic party.”

For more in fo rmat ion , v i s i t thedreamball.org.

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Guerlain’s Liana Engel with Condé Nast’s Stephanie and Jesse Newhouse and

Erin Cohen of Clarins.

Clarins’ Tanya Pushkine with Blair Crames of Avon.

203AUGUST 22, 2011 COSMETIC WORLD

cosmeticworldcalendarSubject:(A) Awards(B) Benefit(E) Retail Event(I) Product Intro

(M) Meeting(P) Press Trip(R) Reception(S) Seminar(T) Trade Show

Admission detail:(IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available

For more events check out cosmeticworldcalendar.com

octoberOCTOBER 4Fragrance FoundationCircle of Champions HonoringBath & Body Works’ Camille McDonaldst. Regis • NYC 5:30 PM Members Only (A)(212) 725-2755www.fragrance.org

OCTOBER 11Skin Cancer FoundationSkin Sense Award GalaPlaza Hotel • NYC 6:00 PM (A) (TA)(212) 725-5176www.skincancer.org/events

OCTOBER 12CIBSMonthly LuncheonThe Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

dromInsider’s Secrets Exhibition PartyNYC 7:00 PM (R) (IO)

OCTOBER 13Women in Flavor & Fragrance CommerceFall seminarsaddle Brook Marriott • saddle Brook NJ 8:00 aM (S) (TA)(732) 922-0500www.wffc.org

OCTOBER 14Cosmetic Executive Womenachiever awards Luncheon Honoring alberto Culver’s Gina Boswell, Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins, L’Oréal Usa’s Leslie Marino and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-MooreWaldorf=astoria • NYC 11:00 aM (A) (TA)(646) 929-8026www.cew.org

OCTOBER 18Fragrance Foundation“Pop Your Cork” Wine & Food Tasting EventCity Winery • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (TA)(212) 725-2755 x103www.fragrance.org

OCTOBER 19-21Luxe Pack MonacoGrimaldi Forum • Monaco (T)www.luxepack.com

OCTOBER 20CIBSFall Cocktail PartyNYC 6:00 PM (TA)www.cibsonline.com

OCTOBER 24 - 26Color Cosmetics SummitMaritim Hotel • Berlin Germany (T)www.eminentmarkets.com

SePteMberSEPTEMBER 11 - 14Beyond Beauty ParisPorte de Versailles • France (T)www.beyondbeautyparis.com

SEPTEMBER 14CIBSMonthly LuncheonThe Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

SEPTEMBER 14 - 15MakeUp in New Yorkstudio 450 • NYC (T)www.makeup-in-newyork.com

SEPTEMBER 18 -23Tax Free World ExhibitionPalais des Festivals • Cannes France (T)www.tfwa.com

SEPTEMBER 21HBARe-Connect Virtual Trade show8:30 aM - 5:30 PM(609) 659-7617www.hbaexpo.com/reconnect

ICMADFinancial Workshop: Raising Capital for Your CompanyFriars Club • NYC 2:00 PM (TA) (S)(847) 991-4499www.icmad.org

Cosmetic Executive WomenNewsmaker Forum: a Conversation with avon’s andrea JungHarmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA)(646) 929-8026www.cew.org

ICMADYoung Designer awards DinnerTwenty Four Fifth • NYC 6:30 PM (800) 334-2623 www.icmad.org

SEPTEMBER 22Fashion Group InternationalRetail symposium and the Robin Report LuncheonNew York Hilton • NYC 11:15 aM (S)(212) 302-5511www.fgi.org

Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerceannual Open DinnerWestmount Country Club • W. Paterson NJ 6:00 PM (R) (TA)(732) 922-0500www.wffc.org

American Cancer SocietyDreamBall Honoring Allure’s Linda Wells and Clarins’ Jonathan ZrihenCipriani 42nd street • NYC 7:00 PM (B) (TA)(212) 237-3915www.thedreamball.org

Young Friends of the DreamBallDreamBall after Dark PartyCipriani 42nd street • NYC 9:30 PM (TA)

futur • fracas • bandit • cravache • baghari • visa • calypso • douglas hannant

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cosmetic world aug 22, 2011

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