Cosmetic Chemistry Year 10 Science Headstart 2019 Name___________________________

After completing this cosmetic chemistry booklet you should have a better understanding of· the chemistry behind making common cosmetic products· how to follow a scientific method· how cosmetics are made safely how to use cosmetics

Did you know?Ancient Egyptians and Cleopatra were believed to be some of the first to use cosmetics as far back as 4,000 B.C.? Egyptians would fill in their brows and line their eyes with Kohl—a cream made from the fat of sheep mixed with powdered lead or soot. Cleopatra is said to have bathed in donkeys' milk to keep her skin smooth and supple. Around 100 A.D., the Romans stayed beautiful by using wine as a cheek stain and painted their faces and bodies with chalk to achieve a pale, whitish look. They even created acne treatments by combining barley flour and butter. The word cosmetics comes from the Greek word ''kosmetikos,'' meaning improvement to one’s beauty.

Today, what are cosmetics used for? What are some product brands you know of?

Quiz!How much do you know about cosmetics? (circle the correct answer)

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1 Using mascara the wrong way can cause blindness True / False

2 Tattoos used to be permanent but now lasers are an easy, reliable way to erase them.

True / False

3 Cruelty free or not tested on animals means that no animal testing was done on the product and its ingredients.

True / False

4 There are non-animal tests that can replace all animal testing of cosmetics. True / False

5 If a product is labelled as all natural or organic it is probably hypoallergenic. True / False

6 Even if a product is labelled hypoallergenic it may contain substances that can cause allergic reactions for some people.

True / False

7 Choosing products with the claim dermatologist tested is a way to avoid an allergic reaction or other skin irritation.

True / False

8 Lots of lipsticks on the market contain dangerous amounts of lead. True / False

9 About 60 to 70% of what you put on your skin is absorbed into your body. True / False

10 The ingredient in “natural cosmetics” are solely plant-based. True / False

What’s in your Makeup?Watch the Youtube clip “What’s in your makeup” by Paul Benhaim.

How is science related to cosmetics? Do you agree with the points raised in the clip? Discuss.

It is likely that you didn’t agree with many points on the clip. In the video “Story of Cosmetics, The Critique - Lee Doren” by HowStuffWorks, some misleading points are addressed.

Homework:Take a photo of the ingredients of a cosmetic product you have at home (NB: shampoo is a cosmetic product). Your teacher may ask you to email it or post the photo on Classroom.

Compare your label with another student – what is similar/different. How many ingredients were in the product.

Prac #1: Hand creamIntroduction:

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Hand cream has two phases: an oil mix and a water mix. Investigate the following questions and write your answers to them in your own words.

What's the difference between a fat, an oil and a wax?

Why don’t water and oil mix?

What is an emulsifier?

Materials: In pairs, collect the required substances and equipment (read the method to know what you will need). Before starting list the safety steps that need to be considered in this experiment.

Safety steps:

● 10 ml sweet almond oil● 6g emulsifying pearls● 50 ml water

● 6 ml vegetable glycerine● 5 drops wheat germ oil● 2 drops of essential oil

Method:1. Place 10ml of sweet almond oil and 6g emulsifying pearls into a 100ml beaker.2. Heat the sweet almond oil and emulsifying pearls until the pearls have melted.3. Place 50ml water and 6ml of glycerine into a 100 ml beaker.4. Heat the water and glycerine until just below boiling5. Add the water and the glycerine mix to the oil mix and stir well until completely blended.6. When cool add 5 drops of wheat germ as a preservative and stir7. Add 2 drops of your chosen essential oil and stir well8. Pour into a small sterile jar (provided by your teacher)9. Add label

Conclusion: Describe the texture of your hand cream.

Prac #2: Bath BombsIntroduction: Bath bombs contain a base (sodium bicarbonate) and an acid (citric acid). When the acid and the base come in contact with water a chemical reaction occurs and carbon dioxide gas is produced.

Investigate the following questions and write your answers to them in your own words.

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How will you know a gas has been produced?

The word equation for the chemical reaction of bath bombs in water is:Citric acid + sodium bicarbonate à carbon dioxide + water + monosodium citrate

Complete the chemical equation for this reactionH3C6H5O7 + ______________ → ______________ + ______________ + NaH2C6H5O7

List three uses that sodium bicarbonate has around the home.

Materials: Individually, collect the required substances and equipment (read the method to know what you will need). Before starting list the safety steps that need to be considered.

Safety steps:

● 32g bicarbonate soda● 16g citric acid● 2 drops food colouring

● 2 drops essential oil● Tea strainer● Witch hazel spray

Method:1. Sieve the bicarbonate soda and citric acid together into a paper cup2. Add food colouring and essential oil3. Mix all these ingredients together well with an icy pole stick4. Give a light spray (3-4 squirts) with witch hazel and mix well5. Press into a mould6. Turn out onto paper on a white tile.7. Package and label

Prac #3: Body ScrubIntroduction: Most skin cleansing products are generally made up of two parts: a lipophilic part, which is fat-soluble, and a hydrophilic part, which is water-soluble. Dirt itself is lipophilic, which means that it won't dissolve in water. Simply rinsing yourself with water after you've got some dirt on yourself won't get you clean. Only something with a fatty product will dissolve the dirt and lift it off your skin. Body scrubs scrub away dead skin cells so moisture can get into your skin, keep in mind that body scrubs shouldn't be used daily - every other day is enough.

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Research task:

Synthetic microbeads in body scrubs have caused great concern – research this problem; what it is and where it is affecting our planet.

List your references:

Materials: Individually, collect the required substances and equipment (read the method to know what you will need).

● 1 tablespoon sweet almond oil● 1 tablespoon sea salt● 5 drops essential oil

Method:1. Mix all ingredients2. Place mixture in container provided

Prac #4: Lip BalmIntroduction: Lip balms protect and soften the skin on your lips. Natural lip balms contain pure products rather than mineral oils and petrochemicals. Pure essential oils added to the lip balm add healing and antiseptic properties.

Materials: In groups of 3, collect the following substances and equipment (read the method to know what you will need). Before starting list the safety steps that need to be considered.

Safety steps:

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● 7.5g Beeswax● 2.5g cocoa butter● 40 ml sweet almond oil● 3 ml vegetable glycerine● 10 drops of essential oil

Method:1. Gently melt the beeswax and cocoa butter2. Add the oil and glycerine and heat until all melted – do not boil3. Remove from heat and use a paddle pop stick to disperse ingredients4. When the mixture begins to cool, stir in the essential oils5. Whilst still liquid pour into small lip balm containers – one per student.

Discussion Questions:

What is emulsion?

How does petroleum jelly differ from other hydrocarbons that exist as gases, liquids and solids?

Methane (gas) has ___ C atoms. Propane (liquid) has ____ carbons.

Petroleum jelly (solid) has an average of ____ carbons.

Research the structure of glycerine and find out what part of glycerine is polar and therefore water soluble.

Experimental design: Design a test to determine what lip care product (from a range of 5 you select) would preserve the most moisture in human’s lips over a two hour period.

Independent variable:

Dependent variable:

Controlled variables:

Design a table to record possible results

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Predict expected results.

Task #1: Research AssignmentChoose one of the following topics to research and complete.

Cosmetic surgeryNatural cosmeticsAnimal testing in cosmeticsRegulations to keep cosmetics safeMarketing of cosmeticsUnrealistic claims about what cosmetics can achieveUnusual substances used in cosmetics

The rubric provided indicates what should be included in your research. Ask your teacher about how to present your research (slides, poster, etc) and how it will be assessed (teacher assessed or peer assessed)

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0 marks 1 mark 2 marks 3 marks

Explanation of topic

Not included

Limited explanation of topic

Some explanation of the topic

Detailed explanation of the topic

Regulation by law

Not included

Limited explanation of regulation by law

Some explanation of regulation by law

Detailed explanation of regulation by law

Interesting and/or unusual facts

None included

One interesting or unusual and related facts were included

Some interesting and/or unusual and related facts were included

A range of interesting, unusual and related facts were included

Photos as diagrams

Not included

Photos and/or diagrams were included but did not help explain concepts

Photos and/or diagrams were included to help explain concepts

Photos and diagrams were included to explain concepts and were referred to in the text.

Presentation Not presented

Some attempt made to set out information into sections

Information set out into sections, however either too much information included or sub-headings were missing.

Information set out in sections, not too much text on each page, sub-headings clear.

Bibliography Not included

1 reference included

2 references included 3 or more references included

Total mark: /18

Task #2: History of CosmeticsComplete the tasks in this section using the following information.

The history of cosmetics spans at least 6000 years and is present in almost every society on earth. Some argue that cosmetic body art was the earliest form of ritual in human culture, dating over 100,000 years ago from the African Middle Stone Age. The evidence for this comes in the use of red mineral pigments (red ochre) including crayons associated with the emergence of Homo sapiens in Africa.

Archaeological evidence of cosmetics certainly dates from ancient Egypt and Greece. Early major developments include the use of castor oil in ancient Egypt as a protective balm and skin creams made of beeswax, olive oil, and rosewater described by the Romans. The Ancient Greeks also used cosmetics. Cosmetics are mentioned in the Bible where Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC— and describes various beauty treatments as well. Cosmetics were also used in ancient Rome, although much of Roman literature suggests that it was frowned upon. It is known that some women in ancient Rome used various substances, including lead-based formulas, to whiten the skin, and kohl was used to line the eyes.

The use of cosmetics in Ancient Egypt is well documented. Kohl and henna have their roots in North Africa. Remedies to treat wrinkles were recorded at the time of Thutmosis III, containing ingredients such as gum of frankincense and fresh moringa. For scars and burns, a special ointment was made of red ochre, kohl, and

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sycamore juice. An alternative treatment was a poultice of carob grounds and honey, or an ointment made of frankincense and honey. To improve breath the ancient Africans chewed herbs, frankincense, or licorice root stick, which is still in use today. Jars of what could be compared with 'setting lotion' have been found to contain a mixture of beeswax and resin. These doubled as remedies for problems such as baldness and greying hair.

Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax and egg white from around 3000 BCE. The colours used represented social class: Chou dynasty (first millennium BC) royals wore gold and silver; later royals wore black or red. The lower classes were forbidden to wear bright colours on their nails.In Japan, geisha wore lipstick made of crushed safflower petals to paint the eyebrows and edges of the eyes as well as the lips, and sticks of bintsuke wax, a softer version of the sumo wrestlers' hair wax, were used by geisha as a makeup base. Rice powder colours the face and back; rouge contours the eye socket and defines the nose.

In the Middle Ages it was thought sinful and immoral to wear makeup by Church leaders, but many women still did so. From the Renaissance up until the 20th century the lower classes had to work outside, in agricultural jobs and the typically light-colored European's skin was darkened by exposure to the sun. The higher a person was in status, the more leisure time he or she had to spend indoors, which kept their skin pale. Thus, the highest class of European society were pale resulting in European men and mostly women attempting to lighten their skin directly, or using white powder on their skin to look more aristocratic. A variety of products were used, including white lead paint which also may have contained arsenic, which also poisoned women and killed many. Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white lead, with which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth".

Pale faces were a trend during the European Middle Ages. 16th century women would bleed themselves to achieve pale skin. Spanish prostitutes wore pink makeup to contract pale skin. 13th century Italian women wore red lipstick to show that they were upper-class.

Some Native American tribes painted their faces for ceremonial events or battle. Similar practices were followed by Aborigines in Australia.

In the beginning of the 20th century, during the early 1900s, makeup was not excessively popular. In fact, women hardly wore makeup at all. Face enamelling (applying actual paint to the face) became popular among the rich at this time in an attempt to look paler. This practice was dangerous due to the main ingredient often being Arsenic. Pale skin was associated with wealth because it meant you were not out working in the sun and could afford to stay inside all day. Cosmetics were so unpopular that they could only be bought at theatrical costume stores. A woman’s “makeup routine” often only consisted of using papier poudré, a powdered paper/oil blotting sheet, to whiten the nose in the winter and shine their cheeks in the summer. Rouge was considered provocative, so was only seen on “women of the night.” Some women used burnt matchsticks to darken eyelashes, and geranium and poppy petals to stain the lips. Vaseline became high in demand because it was used on chapped lips, as a base for hair tonic, and soap. Toilet waters were introduced in the early 1900s, but only lavender water or refined cologne was admissible for women to wear. Cosmetic deodorant was invented in 1888, by an unknown inventor from Philadelphia and was trademarked under the name Mum (deodorant). Roll-on deodorant was launched in 1952, and aerosol deodorant in 1965.

GlossaryProduce a glossary of at least 10 words that appeared in the text provided that you are either unfamiliar with or want to know more about.

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Questions1. What was the earliest ways in which cosmetics were used?

2. What substances were first used as cosmetics in Egypt and Rome?

3. Why did people use cosmetics in ancient times?

4. How were cosmetics used differently in Asia than in other countries?

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5. How was the wearing of make-up viewed in the Middle Ages?

6. Why did Europeans try to lighten their skin and what did they use?

7. What were some of the problems with the substances used for cosmetics?

8. How did the use of cosmetics change in 20th century?

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