core training & shoulder injuries sportclimbing · • olivier kleynjans – sportsfysio •...
TRANSCRIPT
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J O H A N D E C O N I N C K - A R T
CORE TRAINING & SHOULDER INJURIES SPORTCLIMBING
WHO WE ARE ? ANTWERP REHAB & TRAINING TEAM
• Johan De Coninck – Physical Coach
• Simon De Wilde - Sportsfysio
• Olivier Kleynjans – Sportsfysio
• Tom Van Meel - Sportsfysio
• Annelien De Mesel - Sportsfysio
• Raf Gysemans – Physical Coach
• Ansje Coart - Physical Coach
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WHAT WE DO ? CREATING ATHLETES
CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING
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CASE: SPORT SPECIFIC INJURIESE.G. CLIMBING
• Common injuries:• Multidirectional instability
• (sub-)luxations (due to shoulder position)
• Impingement supraspinatuspees
• Overload rotator cuff tendons
• Common dysfunctions:• Scapular winging
ANATOMY SHOULDER
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ANATOMY SHOULDER
ANATOMY SHOULDER
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ANATOMY SHOULDER
ANATOMY SHOULDER LABRUM TEAR
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ANATOMY SHOULDER IMPINGEMENT
CASE: SPORT SPECIFIC INJURYE.G. CLIMBING
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FASCIA
RE-TRAINING THE TISSUE
TENSEGRITY IN THE BODY
• Wat ?
• Hoe ?
• Waarom ?
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FASCIA
WAT HEEFT FASCIA NODIG?
• Kwalitatieve beweging ipv kwantiteit (volume)
• Vocht - PH ⬆ - dehydratie gevaar !
• Slide & glide van de lagen – lasagne
• Elastic Recoil
• Belasting over de full range of motion verdelen
• Triggerpoints “losmaken” doorheen behandelingen /
foamrollen / lacrossball
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FASCIA
WAT HEEFT FASCIA NIET NODIG ?
• Te veel isometrische training – statische overload
• Dehydratatie – overload alcohol – vet - suiker
• Verkorte bewegingen en slecht postuur
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CRAPPY POSTURE – CRAPPY FASCIA
• inactieve houding – negatieve gevolgen voor uw fascia
WHAT DO WE NEED ?STABILITY – MOBILITY & PILLAR STRENGTH
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PILLAR STRENGTH
Shoulder Complex
CORE
Hip + Lower Quadrant
CORE STRENGTHTHE FUNCTIONAL LINE DURING CLIMBING MOVES
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SPIRAL LINE
• Rotaties van laag naar hoog
• Rotaties van hoog naar laag
• Diagonale doorsteekbeweging met armen en benen
• Opduwen op 1 been
IMPORTANT FUNCTION OF THE SCAPULA - SCHOULDERBLADE
• Providing a stable base for the glenohumeral joint
• Pro-en retractie during ADL
• Enough elevation of the acromion through
overhead movements, avoiding impingement.
• Pre tension in the muscles attached on the scapula
• An important chain in the kinetic energy
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IMPORTANT FUNCTION OF THE SCAPULA - SCHOULDERBLADE
• functie trapezius
MUSCLE CHAINS – WEAK POSTURE
• Janda’s Upper-Crossed Syndrome• Cause of shoulder injuries: instability / bad posture
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SCAPULAR DYSKINESIS - WINGING
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PRO & RETRACTIE
• Protractie scapula• m. Serratus anterior• m. Pectoralis minor
• Retractie scapula• m. Trapezius (middle fibers, lower fibers)• m. Rhomboïdeus major / minor• m. Latissimus dorsi
• Krachtenkoppel: Serratus anterior & Trapezius
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PRO & RETRACTIE
ANALYTICAL ACTIVATION SERRATUS ANTERIOR
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CONTROL OF SCAPULA
PLYOMETRICS - ANALYTICAL
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COMBINATION RIB FLARE – WINGING
CONTROL OF RIB FLAIRE
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REFLEXIVELY STABILIZATION
• Proximal stability is necessary before maximum power is produced.
• Unconscious reactions and speed of contraction is more important than strength
• Muscle activation is more important than muscles strength
GLOBAL STABILITY: MUSCLE CHAINS
• Muscle chains & loops affecting the quality of range of motion through the link of the core and the extremities.
Benninghoff (1936)
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KINETIC CHAIN – ANATOMY LINES
PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT
• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE
• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical
• 3 Plyometrics
• 4 Movement Skills – Agility
• 5 Relative Power
www.rehab-training.be
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PILLAR PREP: MORE THAN PLANKING
PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION
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PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION
PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION
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PILLAR PREP – CORE ACTIVATION
PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT
• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE
• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical
• 3 Plyometrics
• 4 Movement Skills – Agility
• 5 Relative Power
www.rehab-training.be
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MOVEMENT PREP - ANALYTICAL
COMMON MISTAKES PULL UPS
• shoulder pain during pull ups
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PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT
• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE
• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical
• 3 Plyometrics – “SSC cycle”
• 4 Movement Skills – Agility
• 5 Relative Power
www.rehab-training.be
PLYOMETRIC PULL-UP
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PLYOMETRIC – ASSISTED PUSH-UP
COMMON MISTAKES PUSH-UPS
• how to do a proper push-up
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PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT
• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE
• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical
• 3 Plyometrics
• 4 Movement Skills – Agility
• 5 Relative Power
www.rehab-training.be
MOVEMENT SKILLS – AGILITY - MANTLE
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COMMON MISTAKES DIPINGS
dippings
PERFORMANCE MOVEMENT
• 1 Pillar Prep – CORE
• 2 Movement Prep – Analytical
• 3 Plyometrics
• 4 Movement Skills – Agility
• 5 Relative Power
www.rehab-training.be
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RELATIVE POWER: END PHASE !
www.duofitt.be
FUNCTIONAL SCREENING
Wat ? • Individuele benadering • Zoeken naar het oorzakelijk verband van
klachten• Beginner tot topsporter • Opmaken oefenschema / filmfragmenten• Prestatie bevorderend Duur – kostprijs ?• 1u – 1,5u• 75 € - klimmerskorting 60 € / screening
