copenhagen fashion week the daily number 2

THE DAILYNo. 2Autumn / Winter 2016

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

TALKING HEADSHENRIK VIBSKOV

ECLECTIC MIXTONSURE

GRUNGE GIRLSLALA BERLIN

URBAN LUXEHAN KJØBENHAVN

No.2 Autumn Winter 2016

copenhagenfashionweek.com

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THE DAILY

PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF:Elsebeth Mouritzen

DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR:Anne Christine Persson

ASSISTANT EDITOR:Frederik Højgaard

COPY EDITING:Louis Vernal

ART DIRECTOR:Marie Brodersen

GRAPHIC ASSISTANT:Anna Dyrberg Knudsen

WRITERS:Sille Henning, Lotte Freddie, Jeppe Ugelvig, Pernille Hammershøj Madsen

COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné

PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week.

SALES: Julie Steenstrup

DISTRIBUTION: Signe Hye Mouritzen, Camilla Falkvist

PRINT:Berlingske Avistryk

CONTRIBUTORS

It is often said that in many relationships, the wife is the one responsible for shopping for the man’s wardrobe. If that is also the case in royal circles as well, perhaps our Crown Prince Frederik will turn out looking even spiffier in the time to come. At least, his fashion-conscious wife, Crown Princess Mary, sat front row at the opening show of award-winning Danish menswear brand Tonsure yesterday afternoon, and even if all the styles might not have been fit for a king-to-be, she seemed pleased with what she saw.

And judging from the positive reception from the rest of the attendees, the Tonsure show may just have marked the beginning of a new era for Danish menswear.

- Because something is definitely cooking. Ac-cording to The Daily’s critic Jeppe Ugelvig, who reviewed the Tonsure opening show, it seems as if a gust of fresh air is sweeping the Danish menswear scene of seasoned, middle-weight designers in general. And the trade association has the numbers to prove it. The market has seen a remarkable growth in 2015, making it a record-break-ing year, largely due to an increasingly strong identity on Danish design for men.

This has lead the governing body of Copen-hagen Fashion Week to take advantage of the recovery in the economy and the growing in-terest of alternative views on masculine dress to give the younger generation of designers special attention on the show schedule this season.Brands like Henrik Vibskov, Han Kjøben-havn, Astrid Andersen, Asger Juel Larsen and Soulland have paved the way, and their suc-cess both domestically and abroad has in-spired Copenhagen Fashion Week to consider

taking menswear branding to the next level for the SS17 shows and trade fairs in August.

The “big four” – Paris, London, Milan and New York – have for a long time had special men’s fashion weeks, separate from the wom-en’s ready to wear. That may not be happen-ing in the near future here, but the idea of up scaling menswear in general, and using the hype of the Nordic man and his strong fash-ion looks - in particular as brand-positioning, with a single day devoted to men’s shows and events, perhaps it’s own venue even, seems like a natural and clever move from the or-ganizers,.

In the words of Kristian Jensen, Minister of Foreign Affairs, who inaugurated the fashion week prior to the Tonsure show - some of the designs that rock the menswear right now, may be a little too bold for Parliament, but he acknowledged the influence, it might have on a broader scale in the time to come. Let’s hope that Tonsure will be one of the torch bearers of this innovation.

Check out the show schedule at

COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM & download our free app for more details go to

COPENHAGENFASHIONFESTIVAL.COM

IT’S RAININGMEN

ELSEBETHMOURITSEN

Editor-in-Chief

W W W . P I L G R I M . D K | @ P I L G R I M J E W E L L E R Y

Pilgrim_SS16_ann_234x316mm.indd 1 11-01-2016 11:22:15



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It started as a DAFI-supported window to the world, showing that Danish high-end fashion and design, jewellery is also in a league of its own, and deserves as much attention as the clothes.

In the few years The Jewellery Room pres-entation for media and business profession-als has been a part of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the serious focus on jewellery as im-portant fashion accessories, has proved so suc-cessful that Swedish and Norwegian brands on the same high level are wooing the cura-tors, sisters Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen and Charlotte Møbjerg Ansel-Henry of Gold-mind Communication, to be part of it.This has transformed The Jewellery Room, taking place tomorrow at Nikolaj Kunsthal, into a Scandinavian platform with the strong-est names and most interesting news in con-temporary goldsmithing and jewellery design.Boasting 24 exhibitors, The Jewellery Room welcomes one of Norway’s most innovative and characteristic brands, Bjørg Jewellery, known for challenging design and campaigns.- And we could add more, if the space permit-ted. We now get requests from German and English brands to join our one-day showcase,

ONE-STOP JEWELLERY DESTINATION

Sustainability is high on the official Danish agenda for future fashion weeks, but new lo-cal brand AMOV takes all good intentions a step further with profit matching on their clothes by donating money to charity.AMOV was created based on inspiration from Einstein, who said: “Try not to become a man of success, but rather A Man Of Val-ue”.

The founder, Kasper Eis, wanted to create a value based business, where he and his collab-orators wish to be as responsible as possible, and this they are doing through the following principles - sustainable materials (as a mini-mum, certified organic materials), responsible production (cooperation with Danish part-ners that have worked with sustainable pro-duction since 1983), and design for longevity (high quality and contemporary fashion).

GOOD INTENTIONS

because they can see how big an exposure we are able to give the individual brands, says Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen.

To meet the growing demand for constant updates between the fashion weeks, Gold-mind Communication has created a separate website, thejewelleryroom.dk, as an online one-stop destination for journalists or buyers, where they can find the newest, hippest, and coolest brands emerging, still curated by the Goldmind owners.

- We are excited to present upcoming brands FaconFacon, NordbyThomsen and Lei Foo, but we are also happy that the ‘old guard’, among those Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, Georg Jensen, Pandora and Shamballa Jewels, still see the value of this jewellery community, concludes Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen.

- Every piece of apparel has a unique code and can be sold on our platform with support for charities, and we do profit matching, so for every $1 we earn, we raise $1 for charity, says Kasper Eis, adding:- We collaborate with leading artists, so to-gether we can raise awareness and money for charity. On our first collection, we cooperate with rapper/producer Pharfar to raise money for good causes. One of the projects to benefit from the selfless attitude is the NGO Fair Welcome, a cause close to the heart of Pharfar, meant to secure a fair and warm welcome of refugees to Den-mark.- Over time, we want to seek out other possi-bilities like placing the support closer to our production, or supporting other new entre-preneurs, concludes Kasper Eis.



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Renowned Danish fashion designer Karen Si-monsen is already successful with her cut-ting edge Karen by Simonsen line, but for the AW16 season, she adds a new, smaller capsule collection called ONE. The philosophy behind it is to create a well-balanced wardrobe of clas-sic pieces based on timeless lines for the work-ing woman.

ONE came to mind as women kept asking me how to dress for all the different activities of the day. Just as I don’t want to carry a suitcase to work or wear the wrong clothing, I saw the need for something versatile; when you need to look professional at work, be a comfy Mom when picking up the kids, and when having fun with friends after hours. So the working title was, and still is, “how to create a timeless piece of design that caters for all occasion”, ex-plains Karen Simonsen.Her answer to that task was to meet the needs of women, understand who they are and where they are going.

WHAT WOMEN WANT

The cleanest drinking water is right under our noses: in our taps. But what do we drink when we are not near a tap? Postevand has a goal of making tap water accessible to you on the go. They box the cleanest ground water on eco-friendly FSC cartons and ship them via the shortest possible distances. The result: natural drinking water that is a lot less harm-ful than bottled water. Try Postevand tap wa-ter for free at the Copenhagen Fashion Week main stage at City Hall.

STRAIGHT FROM THE TAP

- The collection started with a good report on sociology and a fashion forecast, from there we took it through the design phase, where ide-as are created, tested, constructed and pro-duced. And finally, the story of the collection was completed, ready to be presented, says Ka-ren Simonsen of her work process.- ONE is based around the shirt, the blazer, the trousers, the pencil skirt, and the shift dress, but because we are working with the old classic pieces, does not mean that we have to stop re-inventing and adding new pieces to the collec-tion, says Karen Simonsen.

It has been pivotal for her to give the classics a modern look and sense of comfort, so she has chosen “comfy fabrics” with full stretch and body-caring comfort, yet still created with a profound finish and a tailor-made approach. And by sticking to these versatile pieces, Karen Simonsen’s goal is to build a following of her concept, making it is easy for women to add on to their wardrobe with items in new colours each season. This way they can stay current,

Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur, created a hit last year with their humorous ‘Fluffy Friends’ fur accessories, named Hugo, Hannibal; Harry, and Fifi. Now, for their AW16 season, they have birthed their younger siblings, Curious Bob and Debating Bao, who fit onto every kind of handbag - but with OH!’s equally new bag collection for next season, the acces-sories will be in particularly good company.The Danish brand has created a range of products that pay tribute to historical tradi-tions, nature, and sensuality. The inspiration derives from nature and it’s raw elements, which creates room for peace and immersion. This is translated into a collection where nat-ural fur and leather meets modern coolness and everyday life.

FLUFFY FRIENDS STILL IN FASHION

The development of the OH! By Kopenha-gen Fur range, is based on the idea of versatil-ity and is to be used for all occasions. Among the new styles are the practical Babette back-pack; in leather with gold details, the smart Bitten bucketbag; in suede, and the elegant Agata clutch; in soft mink - all in a range of different colours.The key colours of the collection go well with traditional autumnal tones in fashion gar-ments, like the deep mossy green Beech and the dark dusty rose, and there will definite-ly be some happy OH!-outbursts from wom-en, at the sight of a leopard print mink clutch in subtle colors. The wait until September, when the collection is available, is going to be a long one.

while never compromising on personal style.And to emphasize that classics can look as edgy as any emerging trend, she has cast model Sig-ne Lund, formerly exclusive to Saint Laurent, to star in the campaign.



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For the second time, three Hong Kong de-signers have chosen to showcase their collec-tions in Copenhagen. The multi-brand show, Fashion Hong Kong, invites you to experi-ence the three talented designers Doris Kath, Kenax Leung and Lu Lu Cheung at the Co-penhagen Fashion Week main stage at the City Hall.

Hong Kong is regarded as one of the ma-jor fashion capitals of Asia and now, because of a shared design philosophy, Fashion Hong Kong’s choice for an international showcasing has once again landed on Copenhagen. When asked why they are back on schedule in Co-penhagen, Angela Yip, Assistant Manager at The Hong Kong Trade Development Coun-cil says: “Last year, Copenhageners gave their warmest welcome to our designers and our

Ike Rust, former head of menswear at Roy-al College of Art, talks new MA menswear course at Westminster University and gives his perspective on Copenhagen Fashion Week and Danish design students.

Why is menswear so hyped right now?

Menswear is in renaissance and has func-tioned off the fashion radar for so long, and has not yet been stifled by the great God of Commerce. Much has been said about fash-ion needing to change, when in fact it is the CEO’s we need to change. The great hous-es must allow designers to do their jobs and to stop behaving like highstreet brands whose concern is multibillion-dollar profit and who do not understand fashion.

What is the best men’s fashion out there right now?

Austrian designer Carol Christian Poell. Everything pales in comparison. Wear it and you will understand why.

What’s your impression of Copenhagen Fashion Week?

HONG KONG DESIGNS FOR A NORDIC AUDIENCE

PREDICTING THE FUTURE OF MENSWEAR

fashion, that’s why we decided to come back again. Our designs share similar design phi-losophy and styles with many Scandinavian fashion lovers and designers, and echo with each other. Therefore, Copenhagen is an ide-al place for us to showcase the best of Hong Kong fashion.”Doris Kath is the only returning designer from last year’s show. Yip adds that Kath has even taken the Nordic audience into consid-eration when deciding to release a new line of multi-purpose cocktail dresses. Yip says: “Do-ris Kath caught the media’s attention with the stunning “One Dress Fits All” concept – not only practical but also creative. More impor-tantly, it coincides with the trend of “slow and sustainable fashion” – for which Denmark are one of the pioneering nations.

I have seen a new Danish Design emerge, which has everything to do with those who are reaching out internationally to establish change. These include Ingrid Soe for the great work she has done to champion creativity and professionalism at VIA Design. Peter Jensen, because he is such a powerful international brand and a great commercial designer. Bar-bara I Gongini, because she has such a pow-erful and exciting aesthetic. Dr. Else Skjold, for her brilliant research into menswear and of course Astrid Andersen and Ellen Peders-en who take Danish Design into a whole new spotlight.

How did the new MA Menswear education come about?

To have a greatly inspired fashion industry, we must have greatly inspired educational in-stitutions. At the RCA I took menswear out of the shadow of womenswear and established it as a creative discipline in it’s own right. The new course at Westminster University will honor the great tradition of menswear – there is nothing fiercer than the process of tailoring.

With smartphones and virtual glasses spear-heading the newest generation of portable technology to make the jump from the desks of futurists onto the catwalk and into our dai-ly lives, this so-called wearable technology has the potential to grow 78 percent a year be-fore 2018.

In order to explore the meeting between the latest trends in technology and of those in fashion, one of Denmark’s most prominent innovators within hi-fi and sound, Bang & Olufsen, takes the opportunity to use the platform of Copenhagen Fashion Week to show their products in a different context.

SOUNDS IN FASHION

B&O Play is hosting the exhibition ‘Portraits’ at Galleri K Thursday through Saturday after-noon, where six sensory rooms each present the viewers to a very modern interpretation of sounds in fashion.The centre piece of each room is a fashion portrait, by photographer Bo Egestrøm and creative director Uffe Buchard, with creations by designers Henrik Vibskov, Saks Potts; Iri-na Benetyte, Anne Sofie Madsen; Nicolas Ny-broe, and Barbara I Gongini.

In addition to the exhibition there will be a B&O pop-up shop with all the latest in fash-ionable, portable sound.

Photo by Bo Egestrøm

How does your Danish students differ from your British?

Ha haa. I love my Danish students. I have taught here for over ten years now, so I have a very good understanding of how to draw them out of their Danishness, which can be limiting creatively. I respect their need to dis-cuss things rather than to accept, I enjoy the stubbornness and also the very dark humor, which once engaged, brings very exciting cre-ative results. Danes are shyer and can find it difficult to promote themselves, so I need to look for what’s hidden and for the unexpect-ed.

Words by Marlen Tolbod, Fashion Forum

VISIT US AT CIFF | WWW.KARENBYSIMONSEN.COM



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There’s hardly a more prestigious stamp of approval in the Danish fashion society than to open fashion week. Having also received the DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Prisen in 2015, the A/W 2016 season undoubtedly belongs to Tonsure. Since his debut in 2013, Malte Flagsted has steadily elaborated on a practice that will hopefully fuel the Danish menswear landscape for many years to come.

A wall-to-floor carpet in geometric fishbone pattern greeted the guests, which included the Crown Princess, at Copenhagen’s City Hall. As the brand’s Instagram had vaguely hinted at in the days leading up to the show, A/W16 was to be about rugs: shag and frieze finishes, Berber graphics and fragments of Persian patterns featured repeatedly in a wonderful mismatch on per-fectly tailored jackets and coats in a historical, deconstructionist spirit. These highly technical achievements lifted the show to something different altogether – evoking the kind of conceptual avant-gardism of Maison Martin Margiela, Flagstad’s former Parisian master.

Malte Flagstad’s research-heavy approach, and his refined sensibility for textures, seemed like an ode to his former London-college, Central Saint Martins, and clashed beautifully with the more classic menswear elements of wide pinstriped trousers and camel plaids in brushed wool. Hybrid Cossack/sailor hats completed a collection, which read like a precious research archive. “We cel-ebrate the people who have lived a life, collected and gathered experiences for a lifetime. Their homes are literally an imprint of time gone by, years of history showing in their eclectic mix of texture, pattern and colour”, they explain.

Tonsure is a welcomed gust of fresh air to the Danish menswear scene of seasoned, middle-weight designers. Still awaiting its first stockist in its home country, the label is already making its mark on the scene.

TONSURE

RUG, SHAGS, AND FRIEZES

Time: 14:00 Place: City HallWords: Jeppe Ugelvig

by B&O PLAY

PortraitsEXPERIENCE

A photographic exploration of the synergies between consumer wearables

and fashionVISIT THE EXHIBITION

Galleri K, Pilestræde 12, 1st floor (entrance via stairs by PS Bar)

Thursday, February 4th, 14.00 – 19.00Friday, February 5th, 12.00 – 19.00

Saturday, February 6th, 11.00 – 15.00

beoplay.com/portraits



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At yesterday’s lala Berlin show designer Leyla Piedayesh showed a darker side of the German la-bel. It was Regitze Christensen, Danish model-of-the-hour who opened the show, all dressed in black; black suit, plush coat, and a beanie with a badge of a mythical Persian creature. Fac-es of antique statues of various mythical creatures and Middle Eastern animals were represent-ed throughout the collection; in print, embellished on coats as well as on knits, and of course as badges.

However, the overall vibe of the designs was to be found in the 90’s grunge culture. Think: fish-net stockings, Doc Martins; belted coats with large patch pockets, short kilt skirts, and oversized hooded knits. A strong contrast to earlier seasons’ slightly more girly universe. The Persian refer-ences felt like a homage to the designer’s own Iranian heritage and was nicely juxtaposed against the more contemporary silhouettes of the collection, which included tuxedo resembling suits in white, kaki, and black and flattering dresses with asymmetrical cuts.

Loyal fans were of course not cheated of the labels trademark – the partisan scarf inspired print. This season it came in a shimmering green-blue-yellow shade used both on a velvet cape as well as on a belted suit – all styles, we for sure will see featured in next season’s editorials.

LALABERLIN

A TRIP TO THEDARK SIDE

Time: 17:00Place: City Hall

Words: Sille Henning

LIVESTREAMWatch the FW16 show at bymalenebirger.com

4th of February 2PM CET

TheDaily_ByMaleneBirger1601.indd 1 03/02/16 12:52



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URBAN SCULPTURISM

Rather than a show, the young menswear designer Ellen Pedersen had decided to conduct a presentation. The stillness of such a showcase added a sculptural effect to the handful of sto-ic-looking models who had been arranged in clusters around the library hall inside Copenhagen’s landmark, Round Tower - crowds circulating as were they ancient Greek sculptures. A menswear graduate of the Royal College of Art, the clash of future and tradition features strongly in her work, adding a forward-looking materiality to quintessential British menswear tropes.

In a graphic pallet of white, black, and deep forest green, the designer reinterpreted sportswear silhouettes by cutting and reassembling them in a surprising manner, provoking couture-like volume and fit to typically loose sports-pants and shirts. However, the strategy of intersecting classic garments, in cotton and dyed denim, with stripes of synthetic materials like nylon and neoprene, succeeded with varying degree. Utilising such a range of different fabrics, to then move as one, requires extreme technical ability, which the young designer does not seem to cur-rently posses. This was a shame, because when she chose to stick to just one material, like in her sumptuous zipper-embellished suede lather jacket in black, she elegantly procured the kind of urban sculpturalism, that Ellen Pedersen has made her trademark.

A volumptious knee-long parka in shiny nylon strayed off from a show that otherwise elaborated on the designer’s continuing investigation into the contemporary British dandy. A show styled to perfection, Ellen Pedersen has clearly found her conceptual identity – this shines through, de-spite too ambitious fabric manipulation.

ELLENPEDERSEN

Time: 16:00Place: RundetårnWords: Jeppe Ugelvig

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Barbara i Gongini, The designer from the Faroe Islands, whose red hair is as a statement in itself, is a strong name on the Danish avant-garde scene. Barbara’s models each, with a distinguished look, as they walked down the runway - some wearing impressive hats, others with their hair dyed in a glossy blond fashion.

Barbara I Gongini is an expert on working with black and her choice of materials proved the true potential of the colour - thus leather, cotton, modal, fur and knitwear all brought life and uniqueness to the designs.

The collection started out with wearable pieces that had a sporty feel to them. The colours were kept black, with white details and typed letters, bountifully thrown at pants and shirts. Barbara describes her sustainable vision of the label as being part of a “wardrobe in concept”: The styles are non-commercial and can be worn until they fall apart. Another thing about Barbara’s de-sign is its multitude quality: “We call the styles multi ways meaning that they can be worn and fitted in different ways. It brings in a playful element and for this collection we worked with a principle of folding and layering, which allows the wearer to mould it according to his or her unique body. “

The collection was finalized as two dancers took the stage, wearing white showpieces made from old runway carpets. Their impressive postures made the audience flash their iPhone cameras, as their costumes wriggled around their bodies in a truly avant-garde fashion!

BARBARA I GONGINI

THE QUEEN OF AVANT-GARDE

Time: 20.00Place: City HallWords: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen

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THE DAILY

Copenhagen’s most idiosyncratic menswear brand, Han Kjøbenhavn, invited for a hip-hop lad-en showcase in an exceptionally chilly Grey Hall, in Christiania, Wednesday evening. As the populous crowd installed themselves in the industrial setting, it seemed clear that the brand ap-peals to a particular contemporary man who has the courage to incorporate both traditional and new, daring styles into his ever-evolving wardrobe.

Any initial frost quickly thawed away as the models appeared one after the other, emerging from the gigantic shabby-looking Papier-mâché teddy bear, that served as the show’s pseudo-religious totem, with an obscure air ventilation system attached to its belly which stretched to the far end of the runway. Headpieces of scrap fabrics gave an uncanny scarecrow effect and contrasted bril-liantly with more humorous track tops in shiny zig-zag polyester tees, bringing to mind tender teenage years in the local football club. Drawing on their own suburban upbringing, the locale was romantically articulated by the designers through logos of plumbers and auto-mechanics, printed on jumpers and track pants in deep purple and moss green.

While the monstrous ‘Teddy Legion’ installation, to which the models attached themselves to, after walking, failed to communicate any substantial meaning, the clothes needed no addition-al framework: Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Faith Hancock presented their best and most luxurious collection yet. They elegantly sampled the best (and worst) of Danish clothing heri-tage, from trench coats to long johns, and translated it in to opulent tailored outfits that were equally accessible and avant-garde. Never has the mawkish mid-90s looked this good.

HANKJØBENHAVN

OPULENT SUBURBIA

Time: 18:00 Place: Den Grå Hal

Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

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THE DAILY

GLAMOUR EN MASSE

Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, regularly figures on the magazine Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed list. This achievement is gained partly due to one of her favourite designers, Jesper Høvring, who has created numerous couture dresses for HRH. The Crown Princess, as well as other faithful Jesper Høvring fans, will once again find several new possibilities for glamorous looks. Long petrol, black, and raspberry 40’s styled, slinky dresses were ingeniously cut in V’s across the nude, tulle covered shoulders – or daringly cut low in the back.

Green/black laser cut, double lace glimmered in a “simple” A-line 60’s dress with a ruffled seam, and a lovely matte gold 50’s dress swayed with lots of deep pleats in the skirt. It was adorned with black embroidery made by a former student of the famous French embroiderer, Lesage. Indispensable side pockets in all white dresses also suited both a golden and a fabulously gath-ered, long, black dress in laser cut heavy lace. Silver/grey, sexy evening 70’s trouser twinkled in suits with narrow legs.

The same glamour had been bestowed on seal, from Great Greenland, which in the softest skins shone in wine, bottle green, and grey - often trimmed with matching fox. The short grey cross striped jacket, with three bands of blue/green/gold sequins, is heavenly. The perfect jacket, with jeans, or an evening gown, summer or winter, also for a princess. Hopeful-ly new leadership at Great Greenland shall now more effectively understand promoting natures beautiful sustainable Greenland sealskins.

JESPER HØVRING & GREAT GREENLAND

Time: 15.00Place: Hotel D’AngleterreWords: Lotte Freddie

DENIM TALENTS OF TOMORROW: ISKO I-SKOOL THIRD EDITION

MICHAEL KAMPE, Menswear Designer Denim+, HUGO BOSS

JON LOMAN, Product Designer Menswear & Denim, H&M

MARCO LUCIETTI, Global Marketing Director, ISKO

FRANCOIS GIRBAUD, Designer

WILLIAM BERNARD, Creative Design Manager, Avery Dennison RBIS

MODERATED BY SAMUEL TROTMAN DENIM EDITOR AT WSGN

SUSTAINABILITY – WHAT’S IN IT FOR ME?4 February | 15 – 16

YOU’RE INVITED TO PANEL DEBATES:

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X

Since last season’s desert expedition, Vibskov had travelled further east – more specifically to Asia, where he reinterpreted the traditional nutcracker figurine in a spectacular orchestra of 200 blabbering clapping wooden heads. This unnerving soundscape instantly threw the audience into his always total-immersive universe.

Vibskov’s conceptual starting point was the overload of (mis)information that we submit our brains to on a daily basis. In an attempt to meticulously structuralise, the brain risks to fully loose grasp of meaning – and enter a state paralysing chaos. This was successfully communicated in the utter inferno of mismatched printed pleats, fragmented packaging and posters from the 50s, and stripes in every (non)combination possible that ran through the collection.

But amidst the chaos, Vibskov the tailor, kept a cool head. His usual nutty print-mania had been replaced by sharp graphic lines and monochrome outfits, which brought out an appreciation for the sculpted details in every garment. Kimono-like coats in wool for men and women, oversized quilted bomber jackets and a fabulously folded one-piece in monochrome black were wholly surprising, perfectly balanced the urban and the imaginary.

The wooden theme had stepped down from the central installation to interweave in the col-lection as head- and shoe pieces, and this is when Vibskov works the best: leaving the conven-tions of his catalogue of silhouettes, to actually challenge the very construction of his garments. AW16 was Vibskov at his most mature, and it suited him. A senior of his native industry, it was truly wonderful to see that his oeuvre continues to evolve.

HENRIKVIBSKOV

HENRIK AND THE TALKING HEADS

Time: 21:30Place: City HallWords: City hall

It’s all in the details; No look is complete unless well-groomed from head to toe – and all seasons require well-groomed feet. Scholl is all about gentle foot care, making your feet look and feel healthy. Therefore,

during Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scholl celebrates the gorgeous fashion feet details of runways and red carpets alike in the tribute series “Copenhagen Feet Style”. Wednesday kicked off the Copenhagen

Fashion Week with a glorious selection of stiletto styles and beautiful boots.

COPENHAGENFEET STYLE

Sponsered by Scholl



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STASIA’S STAYING POWER

Stasia thinks in bodies. Her design is based on the woman’s body, her posture, her figure; her shape, her curves. She has done this for 35 years, during which Stasia Hallas has designed for jetsetters, celebrities, artists, politicians, and brides, as well as the less famous women who sim-ply want something special for a special occasion. Her design is shape orientated, feminine, and always sensual. But the most unusual is that her designs are coveted by all ages - at the same time as a dowager countess is fitted for a new couture gala robe, young girls are trying on their prom dresses.

Two years ago she launched Lace by Stasia, a ready to wear collection entirely executed in lace.Yesterday she showed both couture and the less expensive French lace ranging from almost de-mure to vastly sexy. High-necked dresses with a two tiered ruffled skirt in silver-grey, alternated with transparent dresses over a corsage slip, and tough black spider webs worn over the naked body are meant to be lined with rose, purple, white or nude - rather fantastic on the perfect model bodies. Abstract print in blue and green, and onyx brocade in jackets and skirts are new; as is beautiful poppy printed silk and white, crystal incrusted lace. A simple black shift dress with long sleeves in silver lace, half way down the wrist – a genius method to saving an old dress. Black glimmering lurex is extremely sexy, a black short, gathered dress - young and lovely, and Chinese red lacquer dresses will steel the show.

STASIA

Time: 19:00 Place: Hotel D’AngleterreWords: Lotte Freddie

K R Y S TA L G A D E 2 2 | 1 1 7 2 C O P E N H A G E N | D E N M A R K + 4 5 3 3 4 5 9 1 0 0 | S TAY @ S K T P E T R I . C O M

P R O U D PA RT N E R O FCOPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

STAY IN SOUL-WARMING COMFORT IN THE HEART OF COPENHAGEN’S LATIN QUARTER. WELCOME TO HOTEL SKT. PETRI.

LA IDBACK LUXURY IN COPENHAGEN



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THE DAILY

Soulland designer, Silas Adler, who recently presented his collection in London, was back in Copenhagen to cheer on his peers, and met with equally enthusiastic fashion professional Uffe Buchard.

Fashion Editor Jeanette Madsen and Fashion Di-rector Thora Valdimarsdóttir of Costume magazine epitomized laid back Scandinavian bohemian chic.

Nina Wedell, board member of Magasinfonden, which sponsors the DANSK Design Talent Award

that Tonsure won last October, has big plans of introducing future winners to the American

market with the help of New York-based Connie Morgan from the Council of Fashion Designers of

Scandinavia.

National newspaper critics Rikke Agnete Dam of Børsen (Financial Times) and Sarah Skarum of Berlingske exchanged views on the shows so far, with The Daily’s own observant Sille Henning.

Jeweller Charlotte Lynggaard, on a brief visit from Paris, where she is preparing the opening of a

new boutique, met Julie Schulin of Quidam, who designs Denmark’s most expensive handbags made

from sublime Italian leather.

Award-winning menswear debutante Tonsure, drew a very diverse front row, of hipsters and politicians and a dash of royalty thrown in, for the official fashion week opening

show at City Hall.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen

Front row at German brand Lala Berlin was brimming with media fans.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen

HIP INTHE MIX

EDITOR’S CHOICE

The big coup was the publicly announced attendance of HRH Crown Princess Mary, who was in the good company of, Minister of Foreign Affairs, Kristian Jensen and CEO Eva Kruse, CWF.

The hipper Danish equivalent of Laurel & Hardy, entertainers Esben Bjerre og Peter Falktoft, who

definitely don’t share the same style or taste, agreed to agree that Tonsure is the first brand, where they

both can find something suitable, perhaps from opposite ends of the rack.

Frederik Lentz Andersen, Senior Fashion Director of the Euroman and Eurowoman magazines had chosen a beige windbreaker despite of his wife

having warned him about the colour clashing with his complexion.

Join us at CIFF stand E-syd-130

rebellious love

Unavngivet 6 2 02-02-2016 13:03:39



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FASHION FLASHBACK

It has been a memorable 10 years for everybody involved in Copenhagen Fashion Week, so far. We have asked some of you to share your biggest moments and funniest incidents from

front row and backstage, trade fairs and parties.

ELSEBETH

MOURITZENEditor in Chief, CFW The Daily

TEARFUL DEPARTURE

I was seated opposite designer Malene Birger, when she attended her own last show in front row, after having officially, and by her own will, passed the torch to her successor. The seconds before she got up to greet Christina Exsteen with a huge bouquet of white flow-ers, our eyes met, and I could see tears welled up in hers.It was a very emotional moment for me, too. I had followed her rise from the very first By Malene Birger collection, and, in my position as then Director of Fashion at ALT for damerne, championed her by im-mediately granting the magazine’s fashion de-sign award, Guldknappen (The Gold Button) to her brand.

FREYA DALSJÖDesigner

SUN SHIELD

The first show was incredible. It was at the Tap 2 venue, which is this huge building filled with windows in the ceiling, and we wanted to show a movie, so it had to be com-pletely dark inside. It was in August and the sun was out, so I had all my friends on the roof at the very last minute crawling around to cover all the windows.

MULTITASKING

I am surprised by how much you can mirac-ulously achieve in just one day. There are al-ways a million things that have to work out on the last days before the show, leading to 17 hours of intensely focused multitasking – speaking on the phone with two people at a time, while having lunch with your other hand, while nodding to a question from a col-league, while writing an email, while sewing dresses, while gluing shoes, while biking to a meeting, while…You are high on the stress but it is a quite fulfilling experience of effi-ciency.

CAUGHT IN LATEX

We had a show where the models were cov-ered in latex, which worked out great un-til they had to change for their second look. So in this timeframe from coming backstage from the first look to entering again with their second look, they had like 28 seconds, and they couldn’t get the tight clothes off as they got stuck because of the latex and the stress. Things went

SILAS ADLERCreative Director, Soulland

GREATEST IDEAS

I think our most memorable show is the in-teractive show in a villa on Krausersvej on Østerbro. People were able to walk around the house and scan QR codes on the mod-els, which would open small film clips on their phones. Our most spectacular location was the Zoological Museum, many years ago. They were restoring the museum, so we got the chance to use a hall, that was completely empty, except for two whale skeletons hang-ing on the wall.

MOST THIRSTY

What surprised me the most about setting up a show is how expensive it is, how quickly it’s over and how many people are only there for the free beers…

RIKKE AGNETE DAM, Fashion Editor, Børsen

COOL LOCATION

One of the locations that is the most memo-rable to me is the underground location Cis-ternene in the Søndermarken park. We sat there, freezing our butts off, in February 2014 for the Designers Remix show. Even though it was freezing cold and we had to cross the snow to get there, I loved every second of the very convincing location. In addition to the collections, one of the most amazing things about fashion week is that you get to experi-ence a lot of places in Copenhagen that you would normally just pass by. Rikke Agnete Dam, Fashion Editor, Børsen

12.05.16

COPENHAGENFASHION SUMMIT

”IN THE WAKE OF COP21 AND THE HISTORIC CLIMATE DEAL, THE COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT IS EVER-MORE IMPORTANT.”NEW YORK TIMES FASHION DIRECTOR VANESSA FRIEDMAN

WHERE LEADING VOICES OF FASHION GATHER TO DISCUSS THE INDUSTRY’S SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

COPENHAGENFASHIONSUMMIT.COM



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TV producer Solomon E.A. Lyttle working with Warner Brothers had come to Copenhagen to film the new TV-show Black Nordic and Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off the filming: “We are going to have a look at the sexiest models and also five of the best designers.” Said Solomon’ who’s fabulous glasses were made by the Jamaican artist Oral Kerr. Beside him stands DR K’s own Chris Pedersen: “I am looking forward to the

Tonsure show. I was a part of the committee choosing them as the winner of Dansk Design Talent - Magasin Prisen 2015. The prize is great as it allows a new designer to create a show.” Says the fashion professional

who recently broke his little toe and therefore has to wear mountain boots! Besides that, Chris is wearing a sweater from SNS Herning.

“The Tommy Hilfiger brunch is the only thing I am attending this season besides crashing some par-ties - just like old times when I was not invited to the shows. Fashion week is like a curve: You start out by attending one show and it is the greatest!

But after having attended several, you get exhaust-ed” Says the media-trained-goes-furniture-designer

Emil Thorup and informs The Daily that he is wearing Tommy Hilfiger from head to toe!

Fashion bloggers and co-editors at FashionFladen.dk, Lei Jürs & Lydia Negash, attended Tommy’s

who’s-who-breakfast in outfits suited for the occasion: Lei in an &Other Stories coat and Lydia dressed in Esprit with a bright pink lipstick, perfect for her dark skin. Lydia tells The Daily that she is looking forward to attending Tonsure’s opening

show while Lei thoughts go to Nicholas Nybro: “I think his last show was quite unique, especially his

bast fiber dresses caught my attention.”

Creative director at Grenaa Creative and co-found-er of DANSK magazine, Kim Grenaa, showed up wearing Danish labels Tonsure and Bruuns Bazaar. “I’m looking very much forward to Tonsure’s open-ing show. They won the talent prize Dansk Design Talent - Magasin Prisen 2015, which I am part of organizing. A lot is happening on the men’s wear

scene and I think it’s really cool that a men’s label is opening the fashion week!”

Mattias Kolstrup, lead singer of Duné, donned the essential Hilfiger rock’n’roll uniform; wearing a leather jacket and washed-out t-shirt and jeans, - “I am a fashion iliterate” – said the singer, as he was on his way to the recording studio - but will take time to go see the Krüger show. He exchanged a mutual admiration with singer Kwamie Liv, who was destined for another recording studio in a COS shirt and Ganni pants, gearing

up to shows by Ganni and Trine Lindgaard, among others.

The newly proclaimed editor-in-chief of Euroman Kristoffer Zøllner attended the Tommy Hilfiger

breakfast accompanied by lifestyle expert Christian Grau. “Attending the Hilfiger breakfast is a tradi-tion for me”, Christian tells us, and emphasizes that he has actually chosen to wear a shirt from Tommy Hilfiger. “Eight-nine years ago I was an established part of the fashion week. Then I had

children. This morning my wife and I woke up to our 1,5-year-old son, who had come down with chickenpox!” Said the tired yet enthusiastic edi-

tor-in-chief who was wearing a Hugo Boss blazer and an Acne t-shirt.

Prominent professionals once again gathered to kick off Copenhagen Fashion Week as Tommy Hilfiger threw his traditional breakfast Tuesday morning.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, FashionFladen.dk

TOMMY’S TREAT

The fashion darlings from ELLE, Laura Lawetz and Malou Wedel Bruun, were dressed in Scandinavian labels: Laura in Danish fur brand Saks Potts, complimented with a scarf from Ganni. The colourful coat worn by Malou, was by Finish designer Marimekko. “I am looking forward to meeting my fellow fashion colleagues, enjoying the extravagant shows, and attending the fairs”, says Laura, while Malou is looking

forward to experiencing the rich creativity that Copenhagen Fashion week has to offers.

WANT A CAREER IN THE DANISH FASHION

INDUSTRY?

FASHIONFORUM.DK



February 4

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THE DAILY

1 2

1 — BACKSTAGE AT TONSURE2 — BACKSTAGE AT LALA BERLIN

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK OFFICIAL APP

• Schedule & directions• News & notifications• Street style • Restaurants

Download the iPhone app at App Store: Copenhagen Fashion Week



February 4

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THE DAILY

ON SCHEDULE By invitation only

11.00 Maikel Tawadros

12.00 Freya Dalsjø

13.00 Revolver Trade Fair Visit

14.00 By Malene Birger

16.00 Birger Christensen

17.00 Mark Kenly Domino Tan

18.00 Lovechild 1979

19.00 Baum und Pferdgarten

20.00 Asger Juel Larsen

21.00 Ganni

BUSINESS LOUNGECity Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1

Copenhagen V

Wednesday, 3 February: 11-22Thursday, 4 February: 10-19Friday, 5 February: 9-18


COPENHAGEN FASHIONFESTIVAL EVENTS

OFF SCHEDULEBy invitation only

10.00 KRÛGER

15.00 Fashion Hong Kong

TRADE FAIRS CIFF

Bella CenterCenter Boulevard 5Copenhagen S

Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade ShowRevolver VillageTietgensgade 65Copenhagen V

CIFF Raven

Bella CenterCenter Boulevard 5Copenhagen S

FASHION TALK: MODEL TALKThursday 17.00Magasin – Kong Hans SalenKongens Nytorv 13Copenhagen K

TREND BEACONS PRESENTED IN COLLABORATION WITH DR KThursday 18.00Magasin – Kong Hans SalenKongens Nytorv 13Copenhagen K

GEORG JENSEN DAMASKThursday 19.00Pilestræde 30Copenhagen K

OPEN HOUSE AT FASHION DESIGN AKADEMIETThursday 15.00-18.00Nørregade 7CCopenhagen K

KADK EXHIBITION: THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF TOMORROWThursday - SundaySkt Petri HotelKrystalgade 22Copenhagen K

OPEN TO ALL

Flagship Store | Ny Østergade 2, KøbenhavnTel 3311-1201 | Man-Tors 10-18 Fre 10-19 Lør 10-16

LITE-CUBE DLX & LITE DLXFIRST CLASS ELEGANCE

SamsoniteDK_TheDaily_266_370.indd 1 1/13/2016 11:58:40 AM

copenhagen fashion week the daily number 2

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